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THE PRIVATE JOURNAL 

OF 

AARON BURR 



NUMBER 



v 



v& 



OF TWO HUNDRED 



AND FIFTY COPIES PRINTED FOR 
PRIVATE DISTRIBUTION ONLY 





■ 



'anif/kE. 




THE 

Private Journal 



OF 



AARON BURR 



REPRINTED IN FULL FROM THE ORIGINAL 

MANUSCRIPT IN THE LIBRARY OF 

MR. WILLIAM K. BIXBT, 

OF ST LOUIS, MO. 






WITH 



AN INTRODUCTION, EXPLANATORY NOTES, 
AND A GLOSSARY 



IN TWO VOLUMES 

VOL. I 



Rochester, N. Y. 
1903 



Copyright 1903 

By WILLIAM K. BIXBY 

Published 1903 



THE GENESEE PRESS 

THE POST EXPRESS PRINTING CO. 

ROCHESTER, N. Y. 



INTRODUCTION 

Tj^OR a century Aaron Burr has been so persistently and 
-*- vindictively misrepresented and villified that he is now 
commonly regarded as one of the blackest characters in 
American history. He had, indeed, some conspicuous faults, 
which can neither be concealed nor condoned. He made 
promises easily, and often broke them without regret ; he 
was extremely careless, though not intentionally dishonest, 
in his financial transactions ; he was a scoffer at religion, 
though his father and grandfather had been clergymen ; his 
political principles sat lightly upon him, and after the death of 
his wife he was notorious for the immorality of his private 
life. This notoriety, however, was due in some degree to the 
entire absence of hypocrisy in his character ; it was a more 
immoral age than this, many of the prominent men of his time 
were as fond of gallantries, intrigues, and amours as Burr him- 
self, but he was less disposed than they to resort to duplicity 
and concealment. His public career, on the other hand, was 
such as to win for a time the applause of his fellow-citizens. 
He was a gallant soldier in the Revolutionary war, famous 
alike for personal bravery and the skill to plan and execute 
the boldest movements ; he was a politician of extraordinary 
skill, one of the most brilliant lawyers of his time, and a 
statesman of high ideals and lofty purposes. In his domes- 
tic relations and among his friends he was the most charming 
of men. One of his biographers speaks of Burr's courage 
and fortitude, his generosity, his magnanimity, and his capacity 
for family affection, and adds : " No heartless villain, such 



INTRODUCTION 

as Burr has been represented, could have won and retained 
the love of such a wife and of such a daughter as Burr had. 
When all the other witnesses have been heard, let the two 
Theodosias be summoned, and especially that daughter who 
showed toward him an affectionate veneration unsurpassed 
by any recorded in history or romance. Such an advocate 
as Theodosia the younger must avail in some degree, even 
though the culprit were brought before the bar of Heaven 
itself." 

Aaron Burr was born in Newark, N. J., February 6, 
1 756, of the purest and best New England stock. His 
father, the Rev. Aaron Burr, a scholarly and eloquent man, 
was the first president of Princeton College and his mother 
was a daughter of Jonathan Edwards, the famous Colonial 
divine. The boy was left an orphan at an early age, but was 
carefully educated under the direction of his relatives and was 
graduated from Princeton at the age of 16 with the highest 
honours of his class. When the news of the battle of Lex- 
ington reached him, he was studying law at Litchfield, Conn. 
His soul glowed with patriotic ardor and he soon joined 
Washington's army, to do his share toward winning the inde- 
pendence of his country. He accompanied Arnold's expedi- 
tion through the wilds of Maine, participated in the assault 
on Quebec, was at Montgomery's side when the American 
general fell, and endeavored to bear his body from the field of 
battle when the attack failed and the army began the retreat. 
At the battle of Monmouth he commanded a brigade and 
again greatly distinguished himself. In 1779 he was in com- 
mand of the debatable ground in Westchester county that lay 
between the lines of the British and American armies, and 
was again proving his worth as a soldier when a long illness 
terminated his military career. 

In January, 1782, he was admitted to the bar at Albany, 



11 



INTRODUCTION 

N. Y., and began the practice of law in that city. On July 
2d of the same year he was married to Theodosia Prevost, the 
widow of an officer in the British army who had died several 
years before in the West Indies. She was a native of 
Switzerland, was well educated, was literary in her tastes, 
and had a most pleasing manner. Years after her death, 
Burr spoke of her as " the best woman and the most charm- 
ing lady " he had ever met. Their correspondence both 
before and after marriage was most affectionate and their 
married life was one of unalloyed happiness. Their daughter 
Theodosia was born in 1783. Mrs. Burr died in the spring 
of 1 794, and thereafter the affections of the father concen- 
trated upon the daughter. He took all possible pains with 
her education and the development of her character, and she 
became not only one of the most beautiful but one of the most 
brilliant of American women. The affection of the father 
was returned with passionate ardour, and throughout all the 
vicissitudes of his career she was his enthusiastic champion. 
In one of her letters written when he was in sore straits in Paris 
and she had failed to procure a supply of funds for his support, 
she wrote : " I witness your extraordinary fortitude with new 
wonder at every new misfortune. Often, after reflecting on 
this subject, you appear to me so superior, so elevated above 
all other men, I contemplate you with such a strange mixture 
of humility, admiration, reverence, love, and pride, that very 
little superstition would be necessary to make me worship you 
as a superior being, such enthusiasm does your character 
excite in me. When I afterward revert to myself, how insig- 
nificant do my best qualities appear ! My vanity would be 
greater if I had not been placed so near you ; and yet my 
pride is our relationship. I had rather not live than not be 
the daughter of such a man." In 1801 Theodosia was 
married to Joseph Alston, of South Carolina, a young man of 



111 



INTRODUCTION 

fine family and high character, who became governor of his 
native state. 

In 1783 Colonel Burr removed to New York city and 
soon shared with Alexander Hamilton the most important law 
business of the metropolis. One of their contemporaries 
thus compared them : "As a lawyer and a scholar, Burr 
was not inferior to Hamilton. His reasoning powers were at 
least equal. Their modes of argument were very different. 
Hamilton was very diffuse and wordy. His words were well 
chosen, and his sentences so finely formed into a swelling 
current, that the hearer would be captivated. The listener 
would admire if he was not convinced. Burr's arguments 
were generally methodized and compact. I used to say of 
them when they were rivals at the bar, that Burr would say 
as much in half an hour as Hamilton in two hours. Burr 
was terse and convincing, while Hamilton was flowing and 
rapturous. They were much the greatest men in this state, 
and perhaps the greatest men in the United States." 

Colonel Burr was nominally an anti-Federalist in politics, 
though his political convictions were never strong. In 1791 
he was elected to the Senate of the United States, defeating 
General Schuyler, Hamilton's father-in-law, though the Fed- 
eralists had a majority in the legislature. Burr was approach- 
able, able, adroit, firm in the confidence of the people, 
intensely loyal to his friends, and had a fine record as a 
soldier, while Schuyler, though an honourable man, was aristo- 
cratic and unpopular. Hamilton took an active part in this 
contest, bore his defeat ungracefully, and for thirteen years 
thereafter was Burr's bitterest and most implacable political 
and personal enemy. 

In 1792 Colonel Burr was suggested for Governor of 
New York, but Hamilton's interference was successful and 
Clinton was nominated. In the same year his friends brought 



IV 



INTRODUCTION 

him forward for the office of Vice-President, but again Ham- 
ilton thwarted his ambition. In 1794 Burr's appointment 
as Minister to France was urged upon President Washington 
by Madison and Monroe, and he was the unanimous choice 
of his associates in congress, but for a third time Hamilton 
prevailed over him. In 1797 Burr was defeated for 
re-election to the Senate and Hamilton triumphed again. In 
1800 Burr rallied his party in New York and by infinite tact 
and skill carried the State for the anti-Federalists, and in the 
Electoral College received as many votes as Thomas Jefferson 
for President of the United States. On account of the tie 
the election of the President was devolved on congress. 
Once more Hamilton brought his marvelous power of detrac- 
tion into play, and Jefferson was elected, Burr being chosen 
for Vice-President. During this contest Burr's friends com- 
plained bitterly because he would do nothing in his own 
behalf. One of his opponents declared, while the contest 
was going on, " Had Burr done anything for himself he would 
long ere this have been President." Colonel Burr was often 
accused of discreditable methods in politics, but here, when 
the highest of all offices was at stake, the true character of 
the man was revealed ; he would promise no patronage and 
pledge himself to no policy, and deaf to the impassioned 
importunities of his friends, refused absolutely to influence a 
single vote in his own behalf. And yet it was asserted sub- 
sequently that he was actively engaged in the very intrigue to 
which, through a sense of the highest honour and the greatest 
delicacy, he would not stoop, even to gain the Presidency ; 
but the jealousy of the rival leaders of his party had been 
aroused, and when Burr, as usual, condescended to no 
explanations, made no excuses, and attempted no justification 
of his conduct, they resolved upon his overthrow. 

Colonel Burr presided over the deliberations of the Senate 



INTRODUCTION 

with great dignity and impartiality, but his re-election seemed 
unlikely and he accordingly resolved to appeal to the people of 
New York; in 1804, therefore, he announced himself as an 
independent candidate for Governor. Again Hamilton sprang 
forward to thwart him, and, emboldened by former immunity, 
increased the bitterness of the attack. Burr was beaten in 
the election, and considering himself the victim of innumera- 
ble wrongs inflicted through a long series of years, sought an 
explanation from Hamilton. Nothing but evasions were 
forthcoming and finally a challenge was sent and accepted. 
The two men, long rivals in politics and at the bar, met 
under the heights of Weehawken on the morning of July 11, 
1804; both fired when the word was given, and Hamilton 
fell mortally wounded. His death resulted in a tremendous 
popular upheaval. Burr was denounced as a murderer, was 
indicted for murder in both New York and New Jersey, and 
was compelled to flee to the Southern States. But both 
before and after the duel there was nothing censurable in 
Burr's conduct, when measured by the standards of the times 
in which he lived. It was an age of duelling ; both Burr 
and Hamilton were military men ; both were strenuous on 
points of honour, and at that time there was no man in public 
life who would have hesitated to send a challenge when honour 
was wounded or who would have refused to accept a chal- 
lenge if one was received. Hamilton himself bore testimony 
to this effect. He declared that his " religious and moral 
principles were strongly opposed to the practice of duelling," 
and yet he did not have the moral courage to decline a chal- 
lenge, saying that " the ability to be in future useful, whether 
in resisting mischief or effecting good, in these crises of our 
public affairs, would probably be inseparable from a conform- 
ity with public prejudice in this particular." The duel was 
conducted with the utmost propriety, the participants took 



vi 



INTRODUCTION 

equal chances of life or death, and, according to the ethics of 
that age, though not of this, neither was in the slightest degree 
censurable. 

After a short tour through the South, where he was 
received by the best society, Colonel Burr returned to Wash- 
ington to resume his duties as Vice-President of the United 
States. He presided over the Senate during the trial of Judge 
Chase of Maryland " with the dignity and impartiality of an 
angel and the rigor of a demon," and the day after the trial 
closed, his term being about to expire, delivered a farewell 
address to the Senate, which was so full of eloquence and 
pathos that most of the Senators were in tears when he 
concluded. 

Ruined politically and financially, with his beautiful 
home at Richmond Hill sold for debt, ostracised by society 
and shunned by men of all parties, Burr now resolved upon 
a journey to the West. Floating down the Ohio, he stopped 
at Blennerhasset's island, a few miles below Marietta, where 
he fascinated Blennerhasset and his wife with the brilliancy of 
his conversation and the charm and polish of his manner. At 
Nashville he was entertained by General Jackson. At Fort 
Massac he met General Wilkinson, commander of the 
Western armies, an old friend and army commander, who 
received him graciously. At New Orleans he was entertained 
like a prince. After his return to Philadelphia he applied to 
Jefferson for a foreign appointment, which was refused on the 
ground that he had forfeited the confidence of the country. 
His thoughts then turned to the Southwest. He resolved 
upon the establishment of a colony, and purchased 400,000 
acres of land on the banks of the Washita, a tributary of the 
Red river. At that time there were many prominent Ameri- 
cans who expected and, indeed, advocated war with Spain. 
Burr was one of these, and he determined to be on the fron- 



vn 



INTRODUCTION 

tier when hostilities broke out, and be ready to take part in 
them. But when his expedition reached Frankfort he was 
arrested, charged with conspiring to injure a foreign power 
with which the United States was at peace. Henry Clay 
defended him, Burr himself made an eloquent speech, and he 
was triumphantly acquitted, a result that was celebrated with 
a grand ball and great popular rejoicings. Burr went on to 
Bayou Pierre, near Natchez. Here he was arrested again, 
and again released. But further legal proceedings were set 
on foot and Burr, despairing of success in his expedition, 
abandoned it, crossed the Mississippi, and disappeared in the 
wilderness. A few weeks later he was arrested near Fort 
Stoddart on the Alabama river, and taken under guard to 
Richmond, Va. Here he was indicted for treason and mis- 
demeanor. The trial that followed was one of the most 
remarkable in the history of the United States. The presid- 
ing judge was John Marshall, Chief Justice of the Supreme 
Court, and one of the greatest and purest judges that ever 
lived. Several of the ablest lawyers in the country appeared 
for Burr and for the government, and the whole power of 
President Jefferson's administration was exerted to bring 
about a conviction. Colonel Burr took an active part in his 
own defense, conducting himself with great dignity and con- 
stantly manifesting his remarkable ability as a lawyer. The 
result of the trial was a triumphant acquittal. Burr had, indeed, 
discussed warlike enterprises, but, as the prosecution's own 
witnesses admitted, his plans were not to be put into execu- 
tion till the United States itself had taken the initiative and 
had declared war against Spain. He may have had some 
visionary schemes ; he may have dwelt upon the project of 
driving the Spaniards out of Mexico and founding an empire ; 
but there is no reason to suppose that he intended to attack 
New Orleans, that he intrigued to bring about the secession 



vui 



INTRODUCTION 

of the West, that he intended at any time to defy the military 
power or violate the laws of his country, or that his projects 
were in any respect treasonable. 

Partly to escape the importunities of creditors whom he 
could not satisfy, partly to allow the popular resentment to 
cool, and partly with the hope of inducing some European 
government to interfere in Mexico, and give him employment 
suitable to his abilities, Colonel Burr sailed for Europe on 
June I, 1808, and remained abroad for four years. 

During his absence he visited England, Scotland, Sweden, 
Germany, France, and Holland in turn and sailed for home 
from England. Though American diplomatic representatives 
at all foreign capitals looked upon him with suspicion and 
endeavoured in every possible way to embarrass him, he was 
everywhere received with the greatest cordiality, and moved 
always in the highest society. His political projects, however, 
were a failure, the European governments not being willing 
to countenance interference with the trans-Atlantic posses- 
sions of Spain. When he realized this, Burr was desirous of 
returning to the United States. But the power of his per- 
sonal and political enemies was so great that for many weary 
months he could not obtain the necessary passport from the 
French authorities, and was virtually a prisoner in Paris. His 
supply of money was soon exhausted ; he either could not or 
would not do anything to earn a living; remittances from 
home were interrupted or had become impossible, and he 
finally became absolutely dependent upon his new friends in 
Paris. For weeks at a time he suffered severely for lack of 
fire, clothing, and food. When, however, he succeeded in 
borrowing money he became utterly reckless in his expendi- 
ture, buying costly presents, useless books, unnecessary wear- 
ing apparel, and expensive wines, and making liberal payments 
to women whose acquaintance he formed on the street. 



IX 



INTRODUCTION 

When his funds ran low, he would again feel the pinch of 
poverty, and after exhausting his credit at the pawnshops 
would sink once more into abject misery. Through it all he 
preserved wonderful good humour, displayed a most astonishing 
faith in himself, and never doubted that fortune's wheel would 
turn. In these trials he exhibited one of his remarkable 
characteristics. No matter how poverty stricken, how cold, 
or how hungry, he never complained, never denounced his 
enemies, never entered upon a justification, or even an expla- 
nation, of his own conduct, and never lost his serenity of 
mind. 

Upon his return to the United States Colonel Burr 
settled in New York and resumed the practice of law. There 
was still a strong popular prejudice against him and progress 
was slow and difficult. When, however, some degree of suc- 
cess seemed certain, he suffered two crushing blows, the 
death of his grandson, followed within six months by the 
tragic death of his dearly beloved daughter, Theodosia. The 
boy, the " little Gampy " so often mentioned in Burr's 
letters, died on June 30, 1812, and the poor mother was 
heartbroken. She became listless, apathetic and morose ; 
happiness had fled, hope was gone, and life itself became a 
dreary burden. Her father, deeply distressed as he learned of 
her pitiable condition, sent a physician to South Carolina to 
bring her to New York ; for in change of scene and the lov- 
ing care of the father lay the only possibilities of saving her 
life. She accordingly embarked at Charleston on the schooner 
Patriot on December 30, 18 12, but within a few days all on 
board were lost in a gale off Cape Hatteras. The father 
watched with constantly growing anxiety for the arrival of the 
vessel, and haunted the docks in search of news as the weary 
days dragged on. When the terrible truth was borne in 
upon him by lapse of time and the entire absence of news, 



INTRODUCTION 

Colonel Burr, who had withstood a succession of calamities, 
nearly succumbed to this the most awful blow of his tragic 
career. Thereafter life had no allurements for him ; there 
were no incentives to effort, and the broken-hearted man sank 
slowly into poverty and obscurity. In 1830, at the age of 
78, he married Eliza Bowen Jumel, the widow of a rich wine 
merchant. The union soon proved unhappy, owing to the 
husband's management of the wife's property, and they finally 
separated, though they were not divorced. In 1833 Colonel 
Burr suffered two strokes of apoplexy, which rendered him 
nearly helpless. He lingered for three years, a constant 
burden on charitable friends, and died at Port Richmond, 
Staten Island, New York, on the afternoon of September 14, 
1836, in his eighty-first year. By his own request he was 
buried at Princeton near the graves of his father and grand- 
father. 

During his tour of Europe, Colonel Burr kept a Journal, 
intended for his own information and the amusement of his 
daughter. Apparently he made a copy of what he had written 
and mailed it to her from time to time. Her copy, however, 
must have varied in many respects from the original, for it is 
simply inconceivable that a father who loved and respected a 
daughter as Burr loved and respected Theodosia could have 
written for her perusal many of the things contained in his 
Journal. Shortly before his death, Colonel Burr put all his 
papers into the hands of his personal friend and chosen biog- 
rapher, Matthew L. Davis, of New York. In 1837, Mr. 
Davis published the " Memoirs of Aaron Burr," in two 
volumes. This was well received and in the following year 
he published, also in two volumes, " The Private Journal of 
Aaron Burr During his Residence of Four Years in Europe, 
with Selections from His Correspondence." Though Mr. 
Davis had Colonel Burr's own copy of the Journal, he did not 



XI 



INTRODUCTION 

publish it in full. On the contrary, he took the most aston- 
ishing liberties with it, leaving out hundreds of pages, omitting 
nearly all the passages in French, which were very numerous, 
and occasionally inserting words that Burr never used. His 
reason may have been that Colonel Burr's reputation was in 
his keeping and that personal loyalty to him required that 
nothing should be printed that might tend to lower it in the 
opinion of the people. But certainly this reason has no force 
now, and in the following pages the Journal appears as nearly 
as possible as Burr wrote it, and is reprinted from the original 
MS. The work is prepared for private and gratuitous distri- 
bution ; the edition is limited to 250 copies, the type has 
been distributed, and no copies will ever be offered for sale. 
The Journal will be of very great interest and value to those 
who would understand the remarkable man whose inmost 
secrets are here revealed. He wrote with the freedom of a 
Rousseau, and attempted no concealment except such as 
might be effected by the use of the French language, the per- 
sistent abbreviation of important words, and careless and 
often scarcely legible handwriting. 

The liberties which Davis took with the Journal were 
amazing and some of his changes were ridiculous. For 
example, Burr wrote, " I saw her home "; Davis prints it, " I 
waited upon her home." Again, Burr wrote : " This cursed 
platina pen is too stiff; see what devilish scrawls it makes." 
Davis printed it, " This platina pen is too stiff; see what 
scrawls it makes." A third example : Burr wrote, referring 
to a servant named Juliet, " I opened my eyes and lo ! Ju. 
with a bowl of bouillon gras in her hand." Davis prints this, 
" I opened my eyes, and lo ! there she was with my break- 
fast." Hundreds of changes of this kind might be cited. 
Some changes were made in the hope of saving the feelings 
or the reputation of particular individuals. Here is an exam- 



xii 



INTRODUCTION 

pie: At Paris on June 28, 181 1, Burr wrote, " Vanderlyn 
came in. If he does not go to United States he will be in 
jail here within a year." Davis gives it, " I anticipate much 
trouble for him in another year." A thousand changes were 
made by Davis because he could not read or understand the 
MS. On one occasion when he was not feeling well, Burr 
wrote that he had been " taking rhad. rhei" meaning radix 
Rhei. Rhubarb was a favourite remedy with him, but in 
Davis's reprint the words rhad. rhei. are printed " good 
wine." In the notes to the present edition attention is called 
to many other examples of this kind. Colonel Burr made 
very frequent references to his amorous escapades. His 
biographer usually omitted them entirely. Occasionally they 
were admitted after free revision. For example, under date 
of Paris, October 1, 18 10, Burr wrote: " Had an hour to 
spare and I maliciously set out on mischief. Called on 
Edwards ; out. On Prevost ; out, and meeting no obstacles 
in the way, got safe to Vanderlyn's at y 2 p. 3. Dined there 
and at 6 came off together. Parted at the Pont des Arts, he 
to go on some errand, I to come home ; but went round by 
Viol.; out. On the way, however, a renc; 6 francs for 
pros, only ; home at 8. Read two hours in my Sp. gram- 
mar. Made caf. blanc. Having no sug., took of that infernal 
strop de raisin, which with sour milk made a mess fit for the 
devil's feast, but swallowed it and am still alive as you see at 
y 2 p. 12." This is the way Davis printed the passage: 
" Had an hour to spare. Called on Prevost and Edwards ; 
both out ; and, meeting no obstacle in the way, got safe to 
Vanderlyn's at half past three. Dined, and at six came off 
together. Parted at the Pont Desarts. He to go on some 
errand, and I to come home. Read two hours in my Spanish 
grammar. Made coffee blanc ; having no sugar, took of that 
horrid strop de raisin, which, with sour milk, made a mess 



xni 



INTRODUCTION 

unfit for man or beast ; but swallowed it, and am still alive, 
as you see." 

It seems improbable that Davis understood French, for 
nearly all of Burr's French is omitted in the Davis reprint. 
Burr used French when referring to his discreditable adven- 
tures, (" accidents," he called them), but he used it very 
frequently for other purposes. He shows, indeed, throughout 
the entire Journal a singular fondness for using words from 
languages other than his own. This is childish at times. In 
Sweden he learned the words brod and mjolk, and then used 
them almost exclusively for three years thereafter, instead of 
the English words, bread and milk. He seemed immensely 
pleased when he could draw upon several languages to form 
a single sentence. For example, he wrote : " Bro. and cas. 
for din." Here we have four languages represented in a 
sentence of five words ! Bro. is an abbreviation of the 
Swedish word brod, bread ; cas. is probably Burr's attempt to 
write the German word Kdse, cheese, and din. is his abbrevia- 
tion of the French word diner, dinner. 

In the notes an attempt is made to give a correct ren- 
dering of all phrases in foreign languages which Burr used, 
and to accompany these with translations. Necessarily many 
words are translated that are familiar to those who read these 
pages, and to such, unfortunately, the notes may seem burden- 
some. But to those entirely unfamiliar with foreign languages 
and particularly with French, the translations will be necessary 
to an understanding of the text. In the Glossary at the end 
of the second volume all the phrases used by Burr will be 
found alphabetically arranged and convenient for reference. 



xiv 



PRIVATE JOURNAL 
OF AAR ON BURR 




UNE i, 1808. Having paid $60 
for the cabin of the Clarissa Ann, 
and also for a pilot-boat to put me 
on board, I was to meet the pilot- 
boat near the Narrows. At 10 A. 

M., T. arrived at , where I 

lodged. At 4 P. M., left in a skiff, with a man 
and a boy. Heavy wind. We went on Long Island 
at the place agreed on, and there passed the night. 

2. At 9 A. M. crossed to Staten Island, having 
seen neither S. nor pilot-boat. Returned. At 1 1 
A. M. took boat and landed at Communipas. 
The boy and I went to the Vineyard, and reached 
there 1 P. M. 

3. Remained till 8 A. M. Left for the Nar- 
rows with . Reached the house of G. Kemble. 

4. G. Kemble arrived. Very politely received 
by Mr. K . 

5. Remained here. 

6. R. Swartwout. At 9 P. M. went with him 
to New York. Lodged with J. S. 

7. H. introduced W. E. Hosack. 10 P. M., 
met T. At 1 1 A. M. went on board pilot-boat with 
F. B. O. Set sail. 

8. No wind. At 3 P. M. anchored between 
Narrows and Sandy Hook. 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

9. At 7 P. M. set sail. At 6 P. M. see the 
packet Queen Charlotte. Fair wind. Passengers, 
Edwards', Luscomb, Clough, Hosack 1 , Mackay, 
Harrison, wife of Judge Thorpe and six children, 
Henley, and Charles Alexander Williamson. 

July 13, i8o8 ? . Arrived at Falmouth at 8 P. 
M. Custom house, &c. 

14. At 9 P. M. took mail, with Captain Ger- 
rard of the Marines and Mr. Luscomb. Breakfast 
at Tinro. Insolence of landlord. Arrived at Exeter 
at 9 P. M. 

15. Leave Exeter at 4 A. M. Breakfast 
at . Very bad and very disobliging. Lus- 
comb leaves us. 

16. Arrived at ]/ 2 p. 6 at London. Set 
down at Gloster Coffee-house, Piccadilly, with Ger- 
rard. Garret rooms. No breakfast till 9. Breakfast 
in coffee-room. Call at John Lewis Mallet 4 — bien 
recu s . On Reeves 6 with letter of Willot ; his sur- 
prise — joy. On Castlereagh and Cooke ; out of 
town. Soir 1 — opera — galere % . 

16. Rode in stage to Weybridge to see Ma- 
dame Prevost 9 , about nineteen miles. Arrive at 1 
P. M. Dine at Robson's with Hosack et ux 10 . Ma- 



I H. E. Edwards — Aaron Burr's assumed name. 

z " W. E. Hosack, a Scotch merchant of very respectable standing and character, who is 
established at New York, and is now on his way to Scotland." — Burr, in a private letter, July 
19, 1808. 

3 In the Journal the memoranda of the voyage are merely brief notices of the wind and 
weather. 

4 Mallet was a second cousin of Frederic Prevost, son of Mrs. Aaron Burr by her first 
husband. 

; Well received. 

6 John Reeves, an official of the British Alien Office. 

7 Evening. 

8 For galerie. Gallery. 

9 A relative of the Mrs. Prevost whom Burr had married, now dead. 
10 For et uxor. And wife. 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

dame Prevost, Constant et ux. Dinner very simple. 
After dinner, cards. Retire with Madame Prevost 
and Madame C. at n. Lodge at inn called The 
Ship. (Mem : Picture of Sir George Prevost, painted 
by Miss de Tott, daughter of Baron de Tott, who 
now resides with the Margravine of Anspach.) 

August 10, 1808. Declaration of Aaron Burr, 
an alien, taken before John Reeves, Esq., the 10th 
day of August, 1808 : 

Declare, 1st, your name, age place of birth, rank, occupation 
or profession [the same in French] . Aaron Burr, United States, 
rank of citizen, forty and upward. 

2d. Your residence, when last in your own country. New 
York. 

3d. Your last and principal residence before your arrival in 
this kingdom. New York. 

4th. To whom known in this kingdom and the place of his or 
her residence. 

5th. For what reason or purpose are you come ? / am known 
personally to Lord Mulgrave and Mr. Canning, to whom the motives to 
my visit have been declared. These reasons have long been known to 
Lord Melville. 

6th. When and where did you land in this kingdom ? July. 
Falmouth. 

7th. Where you now reside, and have resided since your last 
arrival ? London, Craven street, No. 30. 

Sign your name. 

The undersigned was born within the King'' s allegiance and his 
parents British subjects. 

A. BURR. 

21. Received invitation from Jeremy Bentham 1 
inviting me to pass some days, chez lui. 1 



1 Jeremy Bentham was born in London in 1748, and died there in 1832. He was graduated 
from Queen's College, Oxford, in 176} ; was admitted to the bar, but gave up the practice of the 
law to devote himself to literary pursuits. On the death of his father, in 1792, he inherited a 
fortune which enabled him fully to indulge his literary tastes. His chief works are : " Introduc- 
tion to the Principles of Morals and Legislation " (1789), " Fragment on Government " (1776), 
" The Constitutional Code" (1830), and " Rationale of Judicial Evidence" (1827). 

2 At his home. 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

13. Dr. Joseph Moore introduced me to Fuseli, 
to view Royal Academy. 

18. At 9 this morning found my trunk. At 10 
got into the stage for Gadstone. To Croydon 10 
miles, where waited two hours, and then hired post- 
chaise to take me to Barrow Green, near Gadstone, 13 
miles; in fact 12. Arrived thereat 4 P. M. Found 
Jeremy Bentham, and his secretary J. Herbert Koe, 
waiting for me at the gate. Affectionate reception. 
Introduced to his " workshop." License over his 
papers 1 . 

19 and 20. With Bentham at Barrow Green. 

21. Sunday. Returned to town. Took bed at 
30 Craven street. 

22. Lodged at Bentham's house at Queen's 
Square Place. Very kind reception by Madame 
Stoker 2 . Wrote Bentham by mail this afternoon, and 
by baggage wagon this evening. Letter from Beckett, 
first under secretary to Lord Hawkesbury, asking me 
to call on Friday last. 

24. Letter to D. M. Randolph to consult Mar- 
quis Iruko about J. Bentham's "Tactics." At 10 
got into stage-coach for Croydon. Stopped to see the 
railway. Four horses were drawing sixteen wagons, 
containing two tons fifteen hundred, equal to forty -four 
tons ; being eleven tons to each horse. 

26, 27, 28 and 29. At Barrow Green. Amiable 
simplicity of J. Bentham. He was interested by the 



1 Meaning that license to examine Bentham's papers was given. In a letter to an American 
correspondent, Burr said that Bentham gave him " an unqualified privilege to read anything and 
at any time." 

2 Bentham's housekeeper. 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

picture of Theo 1 . " Dear little creature. Let her 
take care." Gave me a letter to General Bentham. 

London, September 24, 1808. Received Guille- 
mard's note, and cards of Gov. Franklin and Mr. 
Luscomb. 

26. Took post-chaise for Little Gaddesden, and 
arrived at Major Gamble's at 7 P. M. Kind and 
hospitable reception. 

27. Visited Bartlett. Les dames 1 Bartlett ordered 
horses, and rode with me eight or ten miles. 

28. Visited Lord Bridgwater (Egerton, Earl 
of Bridgwater), not chez lui 1 ; left cards. His build- 
ing, three hundred feet front ; wall, three hundred 
feet deep. Went with Mrs. Bartlett and Mrs. Span, 
her daughter, in their carriage, to dine at 6 P. M. 
at Asp Ridge House. Handed in Madame Bartlett. 
Lord Bridgwater hands Miss Bartlett to dinner. 
Lady Bridgwater and Madame Span get on as they 
can at dinner. Came off at 10. Lord Bridgwater 
going to-morrow to London. Apologizes for post- 
poning his visit. Offer of service ; politesse 4 . On 
returning chez s Gamble, debate on handing in a lady — 
on English ease and politeness. Proposed to call 
next day on Lord Bridgwater — " very correct." That 
Lord Bridgwater might hand in, but nobody else — 
" no ceremony." Debate about etiquette at the Court 
of France. " But the Court of France is here." 



1 Meaning Theodosia, his daughter. Usually referred to as T. hereafter. 

2 The ladies. 
} At home. 

4 Politeness, i. e., for politeness' sake. 

5 Chex. means at or to the house of; hence here, to Gamble's house. 



Private Journal of A a r o ?i Burr. 

29. Mr. Gilbert, the rector, and Bartlett call. 
Visit les dames Bartlett, &c. Walked to see the 
garden of Asp Ridge. Dine at Gamble's at 5. 
Bartlett ux. and Span. Renew debate on etiquette, 
handing in, &c. McCarthy and les dames sustain 
Gamp 1 . Cards. Visited Gilbert, who walked with us 
to see the church, supposed to be built when the 
Monastery des Bonbommes 1 was Asp Ridge in 1200. 

Lord Bridgwater calls, and with him Mr. . 

Lord Bridgwater invites me to dine, take bed, &c, &c. 

30. Left Little Gaddesden at 6 A. M., having 
engaged to return on Tuesday. Arrive in London, 
27 miles, at 1 1. At 30 Craven street, found note and 
card from Captain Sinclair. Called on him at the 
Virginia Coffee-house, and being abroad, left note 
inviting him to dine with me. 

October 1, 1808. S. Swartwout called with his 
letter from Lees. Called on Dr. Lettsome, who was 
not at home. Being engaged to the play with S. and 
M., was obliged to send excuse, feeling the approaches 
of a headache. 

2. Kept bed till 4 P. M., fasting ; hard head- 
ache. At 9 took tea. 

3. Rose at ]/ 2 p. 8, quite well. At Ridgway's ; 
left with madame, an obliging woman, a mem. of 
books for A. B. A J . At Gilbert's, bootmaker — a 
great liar ; boots not done. At Madame Mallet, 



1 Meaning himself. Gamp was a family nickname, applied by Burr to himself and by Burr 
and others to Theodosia's son, Aaron Burr Alston. It is conjectured that " Gamp " might have 
been the result of the child's early attempt to say " grandpa." 

2 For des Bonshommes. 

J Aaron Burr Alston, Theodosia Burr Alston's son. 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

veuve 1 . Catherine went yesterday to Weybridge, 
having left a civil message for A. B. 2 at Madame 
AchaudV. All the family, except Mr. Achaud, gone 
to Tunbridge, whither Constant et ux. had gone some 
days before. Madame Wilken, Craven street ; in the 
evening, at the trunkmaker's. Coach hire, 9 shillings. 
But first in the morning on Reeves. Prayed to dine, 
which accepted. T 4 : George Chalmers 5 , author of 
certain compilations ; Brown, who had been in Russia ; 
Madame B. sa mere 6 . Stayed till 9 o'clock. 

4. Rose at 6. Sent porter for trunk and boots. 
Neither done. Clothes not come from wash. Stage 
for Gaddesden to start at 1 2, and nothing ready ; 
bought two shirts. Clothes and trunk came at T / z p. 
1 1 . Packed up tout suite 1 and drove comme diable % to 
stage-house, Oxford street. Discovered that the hour 
of departure was one^ and not twelve o'clock. Start 
at x /n p. 1 o'clock. Arrive at 7. Servant of Major 
Gamble waiting at the inn to receive and conduct me. 

Took tea at Bartlett's. History of ball at . 

Nonchalance de Madame 9 . Mode of leading out dames. 

5. Rose at 7. Called on Mr. Gilbert, the 
rector, to return his visit. He got up horses to ride 
with me. Called on Lord Bridgwater. T \ Lord 



1 Widow. 

2 Aaron Burr. 

3 Madame Achaud was first cousin to Frederick Prevost, son of Mrs. Aaron Burr by her 
first husband. Mrs. Constant was Mrs. Achaud's eldest daughter. The houses of Achaud and 
Mallet (previously mentioned) were frequented by famous literary personages. 

4 T. French word meaning there. It is used throughout the Journal for there were present. 

5 Born at Fochabers, Scotland, 1759; died at London, 1825. Historian and antiquary. 
Author of "•Caledonia" (1807-24), "Life of Mary, Queen of Scots " (1818), and numerous 
other works. 

6 His mother. 

7 For tout de suite. At once. 

8 For comme le diable. Like the devil. 

9 The nonchalance or unconcern of Madame. 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Grimstone and two daughters. Went on to Berk- 

hamstead, into the church to Queen Elizabeth. 

Left horses at the Swan. Called at Ford's, Berkham- 
stead Place, half a mile from town, to see the ruins of 
the castle. Returned at 4; dinner at 5. T: Rev. Mr. 
Gilbert and Bartlett. Cards. Won two shillings and 
sixpence of the rector. 

6. Rose at 8. Bartlett and the rector rode to 
show me the remains of a Roman camp, eight miles 
off. Magnificent and extensive view. Returned by 
Dunstable, famous for straw-hat making. Strange 
dialect of the peasants. At 6 to dine at Asp Ridge. 
T: Rev. Nor et ux. Mr. Nor is one of the King's 
chaplains. At x / 2 p. 8 start in four carriages for the 
ball at Berkhamstead. Dancing had commenced 
when we arrived. Supper at 1. Got home at 3. 

7. Called at Asp Ridge; personnel all airing. 
During my absence to-day, Lady Bridgwater called in 
her gig, driving herself, and left for me C.'s " History 
of Hertfordshire." 

8. Dined at Bartlett's. Barker et ux. He is 

uncle of Lord Lake, Rector of , and Chaplain 

to the Prince of Wales. Music and dancing. Barker 
invites me to dine on Monday, which I accept. 
Break up before 12. 

9. Breakfast at M'Carthy's at 10, having agreed 
to ride with him to see the place of the Earl of Bute, 
said to have the best collection of pictures in England. 
M'Carthy has eight children, all handsome and most 

I For Personne ny etait. Nobody was there. 

8 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

of them beautiful. Having staid longer than was 
intended, thought it was too late to visit the Earl of 
Bute's, so rode over to Hamel Hemstead. Called on 
Meade, brother-in-law of M'Carthy. Returned by 
Berkhamstead, and reached home at 4. 

10. Called by appointment on Lord Bridgwater. 
Left for his perusal, letter of J. Bentham. M'Carthy 
called at 11. Rode with him and Bartlett. Called 

on — , amiable, frank old man, very deaf; uncle 

of Mrs. Gordon, also of Whitbread. Polite and 
hospitable overtures. Tea with the Bartletts. Came 
home at 9. Retire to write and pack up. Wrote 
Lord Bridgwater, returning the book and paper, and 
asking for Bentham's letter. 

12. Rose at 5. Got in stage at 6, intending to 
take post-chaise from Hamel Hemstead to St. Albans 
to visit Lord Grimstone ; but no chaise was to be 
had, so came into town, where arrived at 10 o'clock. 
To Faleur ; not content with his work. Impertinence 
of his goldsmith, whom I ordered out of the room 
for obtruding his opinions. F. is to mend his work, 
and I am to call to-morrow — thence to S. Swartwout. 
It was fortunate that I came to town, for yesterday he 
received orders to go on to Liverpool forthwith. 
Received letter from D. M. Randolph ; very melan- 
choly. Speaks of the death of a most valued friend 
in America, which must be particularly afflicting to 
me. Who can he mean ? I have heard of no death 
of the least consequence to anybody. To Beck, 
tailor, about culots 1 ; badly made. Bentham has writ- 

I For culottes. Breeches. 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

ten that he will be in town on Friday. Mrs. S. 

says I may lodge . Received a very civil letter 

from Sir Andrew Grant, enclosing the letter of his 
correspondent near Carlisle, about Mrs. Miller's 
legacy, which turns out to be just nothing. Also a 
very pretty letter from Miss C. Mallet, as well in her 
own as on Madame Prevost's behalf, inviting me to 
Weybridge. At 4, walked to Ridgeway's ; Madame 
had procured the books for which I had left a 
memorandum. 

14. Called at Queen's Square Place; Mrs. 
Stoker has received a letter from Bentham delaying 
his return until Monday 16th, unless I shall be in 
town and wish him to come sooner. It is now 12, 
and, having suffered my fire to go out two hours ago, 
I am going to bed 1 . 

15. Rose at 8. After saying at 12 last night 
that I was going to bed, I made a good fire, got wine, 
water, and sugar, and sat up till ^ p. 2. I went on 
Thursday to Robert Shedden, Gower street, on the 
business of the lovely Anabella, now, I hope, Mrs. A. 
B. R. Mr. Shedden was not at home, so I left a note, 
written at his house, of which, see the copy made 
from memory 2 . 

London, November 13, 1808. Sir Mark A. 
Gerrard and Captain Percival of the Marines came to 
breakfast. The former was fellow-passenger with me 



1 Under this date Burr wrote to Bentham : " I have no longer the slightest hope of the coun- 
tenance of the ministry for anything which might be proposed. I am an object of suspicion and 
alarm." He was anxious that the British government should assist him in his plan to drive the 
Spaniards from Mexico. 

2 From this time until November 15th, there are no entries in the Journal. 

IO 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

from Halifax. The latter was introduced to me by 
him yesterday. We took dinner together at Story's 
Gate Coffee-house. After breakfast Sir Mark walked 
with me to Miss Beetham's to pay for a picture — pro- 
file en noir 1 . Miss B. not at home. Paid her sister, 

Mrs. , 21 shillings. Belle femme et d' esprit 1 . 

Called on Dumont at 5, and went together to 
dine at Achaud's. T : Sir Samuel Romilly et ux., 

formerly Miss , of K., where now lives her 

brother, belle et bien elevee*; the young Baron 
D'Albert and his sister, wards of Constant. Sir Sam- 
uel has an amiable and intelligent countenance. Came 
off at 10 o'clock. 

14. Don Castella called on me at 10. He had 
yesterday seen 89A Three letters on X 5 affairs. 
Went to Falieri's ; got home, sans accident 6 . William 
Graves called at 5. The Hopewell does not sail till 
the 1 6th. No vessel yet provided to take the mail to 
New York. 

15. Wrote Sir Mark to call on me. Note from 
Captain Percival that Lady Hamilton was not in town. 
G. called with Captain Stewart, an amiable young 
Scotchman. Sir Mark has discovered les personages 1 , 
and will present A. B. 8 on Friday. Passed the day in 
writing to the United States ; at home, except calling 
on Reeves at 4 about passports. Did not see him. 



1 Profile in black, i. e., a silhouette. 

2 A fine-looking, intellectual woman. 

3 Fine looking and well-bred. 

4 Some individual who is referred to by number rather than by name. Burr left with his 
daughter a long list of names to which numbers were attached. He was obliged to be very 
guarded in his communications. 

; Used several times in the Journal. X signifies Burr's secret projects with regard to Mexico. 

6 Without accident. 

7 The persons. 

8 Aaron Burr. 

II 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr. 

K. abroad. Evening with Bentham ; conversed of 
tattooing, and how to be made useful ; of infanticide ; 
of crimes against Nature, &c, &c. 

1 6. Castella called at n and sat an hour. 
Called at 4 on Dawe, painter ; pas talents 1 . At 5 
home, safe. Dinner with B. and K. Tea ditto. 
Passed evening with . 

17. Did nothing till 2, then called on Reeves 
about passports. He had done nothing, would do 
nothing, and was just going out of town for four days ! 
Me voila prisonier d'etat 2, ! At J. Wedgwood's, 328 
Oxford — elle ne veut plus me parlerK Strolled and 
pens ant a T. et tous mes petit s plans 4 . Called on Ma- 
dame Beetham ; dehor s s . Sat half an hour av la 
mere 6 , who did not know me, but received me with 
politeness. On Madame Langworthy, la mere de la 
belle Catherine 7 . 

18. Castella called before I was up. Breakfasted 
with me, and gave me many interesting details respect- 
ing South America and of persons there. Called on 
General Picton, Dr. Blackburn, and on Mr. Duval ; 
waited till he came in to dinner, and dined with him. 
To Madame H. Surry, who confessed that there was 
no such person as the Hon. Madame Bruce, but that 
the whole was a fable imposed on her by Madame G., 
sister of Madame C, and so on me. Madame G. 
lives in handsome style, handsome carriages, and many 

I For II na pas de talents. He has no talents. 

a Here I am a state prisoner. 

3 She won't speak to me any more. 

4 Thinking of Theodosia and all my little plans. 

5 Out. 

6 For avec la mere. With the mother. 

7 The mother of the beautiful Catherine. 

12 



Private °J our n a I of Aaron Burr . 

servants ! Called on Madame W., found there a card 
from General Picton and a note from Mr. Duval, with 
whom I am to dine on Sunday. Tea with Bentham, 
Wrote to Hosack in reply to his of the 17th, and a 
long letter to Mrs. Prevost. Confab an hour with K. 
Read Thierry 1 an hour with B. 

20. To Madame W.; abroad. To Madame 
H. Surrey, to see further about the Hon. Madame 
Bruce. To the Salopian Coffee-house, to meet Sir 
Mark by appointment. He came not, but met there 
Captain Percival. Chez nous z to dress. To Duval's to 
dine at 5. A family party. Only the two sons, who 
are amiable and pleasant. The counsellor, Lewis, 
very intelligent. I had lent for a few days the picture 
of Theodosia, which was hung up there, and em- 
ployed more of my thoughts than the dinner and com- 
pany. We drank her health, &c. It is very remark- 
able that one of the sons looks like Phil, and the other 
speaks like him. You will be struck with it at your 
first interview. Read an hour more of Thierry, and 
laughed a great deal. Made out a law opinion re- 
quested by Hosack, which took me two hours, being 
obliged to hunt up the treaty of 1794 3 , and certain 
laws of the State of New York. General Picton 
called on me yesterday at the hour I was chez lui. 

21. At War Office to confer with General Hope 
about license, &c. Note : I had met General Hope 



1 There were several French authors of this name. 

a At our house, at home. 

j This was probably the treaty with regard to Indian lands in Western New York, signed at 
Canandaigua, N. Y., by representatives of the United States and the principal chiefs of the Seneca 
Nation of Indians. 



J3 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

at dinner at Mr. Cooke's. He declared himself to 
have been an intimate friend of the late Colonel Wil- 
liamson 1 ; to have heard him speak much and affec- 
tionately of me ; to have greatly desired my acquaint- 
ance. Gave me his address, &c. To Madame 
Onslow's, about two and a half miles, New road. Au 
retour pres 5*, called again at the War Office to see 
General H., having been told by the porter that he 
would certainly be in at that hour. His carriage wait- 
ing at the door. Denied ! Dinner chez nous with B. 
seul\ Koe came in and we read Thierry. B. always 
goes to bed at 11, at which hour, of course, I come 
down to my room. Wrote to you, and for you, and 
about you, till 1. 

11. Sir Mark came in at 12 to apologize for 
his default on Sunday. Walked with him to be intro- 
duced to Signora ; truly a very lovely woman ; 

native of Corsica ; widow of a British officer ; peut-etre 
32 ; pari. Italian, French, and English; une physiono- 
mie tres interressante 4 ; nous y rencontrames four autre s 
dames etrangeres 5 . Walked with the General to 
Tottenham Court Road, having twice egared 6 on the 
way. We parted. To Madame Onslow's — -je la 
trouvee superbement mise et av. beaucoup de gout. Jou- 
ames Echec — je gagnai. Elle mejoua quelques airs assez 
joliment sur la Harpe 7 . Left at j4 p- 4- En ret. s 

1 Charles Williamson, who managed the lands in Western New York owned by Sir William 
Pulteney. 

2 On my return at nearly 5. 

3 Alone. 

4 Perhaps 3Z ; speaks Italian, French, and English ; a very interesting face. 

5 We met there four other strange ladies. 

6 Lost the way ; strayed. Burr here makes an English verb from a French perfect participle. 

7 I found her dressed superbly and with much taste. We played chess. I won. She played 
me some airs quite prettily on the harp. 

8 On returning. 

14 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

stopped moment chez Ridgeway. She dare not under- 
take the of Jovellianoz. Chez nous at 5^. 

Din. seul av. B. K. ent. a 6, read Thierry a little 1 . 
Part at 11. Wrote till 2 to United States. 

23. Castella came in at 10 and took breakfast. 
Stayed two hours. Had received a very interesting 
letter from his friend C. in Spain. Had seen M. de 
G. He is to call again on Friday. Many things 
proposed for consideration. Baron N. left word that 
he had called at the particular request of the sister of 
Sir W. Pulteney. This another inquiry about Ameri- 
can laws. Left card at Baron Norton's. To Falieri's. 
After essaying an hour, he determined to abandon 
this, his second work, and try again. Note : I have 
already paid him X30!! Returning, at Madame 
Duval's, to thank her for the pretty manner in which 
the picture was sent home. She said rolling injured 
it, and she had procured a very handsome portfolio, 
made just to receive it ; an attention which very much 
pleased me. To Achaud's ; saw Madame only ; gave 
instructions about the letters they are to write to 
Portsmouth, Falmouth, and Liverpool, to secure the 
reception of T 2 . To Reeves's, who prayed me to dine; 
engaged to return after dinner. Dinner chez nous B. 
seul. Koe enters at 6. At 7 went to Reeves's. Gave 
him up his license. Claimed the privilege of a British 
subject as a birthright, which I had a right to resume, 
and gave him notice that I should go where I pleased. 
This violent measure, however, grew out of his sug- 

1 Dinner alone with B., K. entering at 6, read Thierry a little. 

2 Theodosia, his daughter. He hoped she would join him in Europe. 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

gestions. He promised to report the case to Lord 
Hawkesbury, who would probably refer it to the 
Attorney-General. R. is to communicate to me the 
result. Returned to tea. Read Thierry an hour with 
B. and K. Part at n. Wrote till 3. On returning 
home, called at Turnevelli's, the statuary, and engaged 
to give him a sitting to-morrow at 11. 

24. Rose at 9. Wrote to Sir Mark not to call 
till 1. Went to Turnevelli's. He would have a 
mask. I consented, because Bentham, et al x . had. A 
very unpleasant ceremony. To Sir Mark's ; he was 
sitting down to breakfast. Walked together. Called 
at Herries and Farquar's, St. James's street, agents of 
the late Colonel Charles Williamson, to see for letters 

from T . None ! none ! ! Returning with G., 

chez mo? found a note from Baron Norton, requesting 
an interview. No doubt some law business. Wrote 
him to call at 12 to morrow. Sir Mark had engaged 
me to call on Signora B. Just as we were going out, 
casting my eyes in the mirror I observed a great pur- 
ple mark on my nose. Went up and washed it and 
rubbed it — all to no purpose. It was indelible. That 
cursed mask business has occasioned it. I believe the 
fellow used quicklime instead of plaister 3 of Paris, for 
I felt a very unpleasant degree of heat during the 
operation. I sent Sir Mark off, resolved to see no 
Signora till the proboscis be in order. Wrote Ons. 4 , 
with whom I had engaged to pass the evening, apolo- 



1 Latin for et alii. And others. 

2 At home. 

} So in the MS. 

4 Madame Onslow. 



16 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

gizing. Sent Tom with the packet for T., to be put 
into the mail for Falmouth. Also a letter for E. in 
French. Dinner chez nous with B. seul, Koe being 
gone to Hamstead. I have been applying a dozen 
different applications to the nose, which have only 
inflamed it. How many curses have I heaped on that 
Italian ! Read to B. review of Leckie's work, which 
took till 9. K. came in, and we finished Thierry. I 
shall go early to bed (say 12), in hopes to sleep off my 
nasology. 

25. Did not get to bed till 1. Rose at 9. Nose 
the same. At 11, went to Turnevelli's to sit. Re- 
lieved myself by cursing him for the nose disaster. 
He bore it like one conscious, and endeavored to con- 
sole me by stating that the same thing happened to 
Lord Melville and to several others, and that the 
appearance passed off in a few days. Took a hack, 
not liking to walk and exhibit my nose. Stayed two 
hours with Turnevelli. He will make a most hideous, 
frightful thing, but much like the original. After 
leaving Tur., being unfit for any reasonable thing, rode 
to Madame O.'s to apprise her that if she were dis- 
engaged I would call after dinner and play chess. It 
was agreed. Rode to F's to give him a written mem. 
pointing out the defects and containing precise direc- 
tions. Paid off the coach, 3 shillings, and walked to 
O.'s. On the way eat cakes and custard, 1 shilling, by 
way of dinner. Got to O.'s at y 2 p. 5. Staid till ^ 
p. 9. Play two games — each won alternately and paid. 
Chez nous a dix\ B. was writing. Chez moi^ where 

I At home at 10. 

17 



Private J our 71 a I of Aaron Burr . 

I do nothing but muse for two hours. Coucbe 1 at 1. 

26. Rose at Y / 2 p. 9. Went to Turnevelli's at 

I I ; nose a little improved. Sat one hour. The 
thing grows more hideous at every touch. Called at 
the house which C. gave me as his residence. The 
lady said he did not lodge there, she not being able to 

accommodate his family — that is, his niece 

" Old enough to be my grand-father ! " Helas I 
quand reviendrai % ? Roved about two or three hours 
hunting a chess table, or stand with chess board inlaid ; 
did not find one to please me. Home at ^ p. 3 to 
dress for dinner, being engaged to General Picton at 
the Tower Coffee-house. Went there, the nose not- 
withstanding, at y 2 p. 5. T: Captain Charles Smith ; 
Baron Montalbert, who had served in St. Domingo, 
and said De Pestre was one of his officers, i. e., under 
his command. Spoke of De Pestre handsomely, but 
not in the warm terms which his virtues, his courage, 

and his talents merit. Also Dr. , an Irish 

gentleman who was in the medical department of 
Trinidad with Picton, and his particular friend, a frank, 
intelligent man. General Picton was governor of 
Trinidad, and had here a very unpleasant lawsuit, on 
a charge of applying torture to a mulatto girl to extort 
a confession of a theft to which there was a reason to 
believe she was a party. The ministry did not 
support him. 

Friday (25th) again. I come back to Friday to 
say that Baron Norton, agreeably to my appointment, 



1 Go to bed. One of the French words often employed in the Journal. 

2 Alas ! when shall I return. 

18 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

called promptly at 12. His errand was to inquire 
about the estate of the late Lady Buth 1 , the daughter 
of Sir W. Pulteney, and particularly as to the laws of 
descent in New York. He is a judicial baron of 
Scotland, whither he is going in a few days. Gave me 
his address, and offered me all sorts of civilities. 
Madame Norton, his wife, is a niece of the late Sir 
W. P. Perhaps a sister. No, it is a niece, and sister 
of the late Lady Buth. 

Saturday (26th) again. Our dinner was a very 
good one, of three courses and four kinds of wine. 
Being in very bad order for society, I left them before 
coffee and got home at y 2 p. 10. Just spoke to B. 
and came to my room. After ruminating and doing 
nothing for two hours, to bed about 1. In the 
course of the day called on Madame W. and found 
her in tears, with a gentleman by her side, consoling 
her in his manner, and from which I supposed some- 
thing very melancholy had happened. He went off, 
and on inquiring the cause, which was — too long to 
be written — I found it so ridiculous that I scolded 
and laughed at her until she also laughed. 

27. Sent Tom to Walbrooke to Madame W., 
which is his daily tour. At 12 called at Reeves's. 
He showed me a letter from Colonel Jenkinson 
about my pretensions as a British subject. Dampier 
has given opinion that I may resume at pleasure, 
the Lord Chancellor, Eldon, that I cannot, and am 
forever an alien. The Attorney-General is doubt- 

I For Lady Bath, for whom the village of Bath in New York state was named. 

!9 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

ing. Lord Hawkesbury thinks the claim monstrous. 
I begin to think the policy of this brusque move 
ment very doubtful. I am out of all patience at 
being detained in town, and am in danger of weary- 
ing out my great and good friend Bentham. From 
Reeves's walked on to visit the Donna ; but, 
recollecting my nose, walked home. Tom had 
brought a letter from Graves, who is a most 
indefatigable and good creature. At i went over 
Westminster Bridge, and through Southwark to the 
London Bridge. Then round by the Tower, which 
I had never before seen. It is surrounded by a ditch, 
through which the Thames water flows ; but it would 
not resist an enemy provided with heavy cannon for 
twenty-four hours. It may do very well to keep the 
lions and state prisoners. Called on Crockatt, 11 
Throgmorton street ; not at home. Gamp was 
tired and stopped a quarter of an hour to eat a jelly 
and cake, 8 pence. Came back by Blackfriars' and 
Westminster Bridges, and got home safe at x / 2 p. 4, 
having walked, as your map will show you, at least 
eight miles. Dinner below. B. and K. went up, 
and, against my advice, began the reading of the 
Preface and Eloge 1 of Thierry. B. got asleep, and I, 
approaching to it, came down to bring up my journal 
for the last three days, lest my little Min. 2 scold. 

28. Rose at x / 2 p. 9. Nose a little improved. 
Sent Tom to Graves for the laws of New York, and 
to Miller, bootmaker. It is now five weeks since I 



1 Eulogy. 

2 Does he mean Minerva ? 



20 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

put into Miller's hands some of Bellamy's leather for 
a pair of boots. One pair which I could not get on, 
were sent and were returned. Since that I have had 
daily promises, but no boots. The shoes, which cost 
17 shillings, I could not wear, and have given them 
away. Thus it is with every mechanic I have 
employed in London except my tailor, Beck, who lies 
a little, but far less than any other. Waited till 1 for 
Tom's return, and then went to Turnevelli's. Sat 
one hour. Worse and worse ! This was meant to 
please you ; but if I had suspected that I had become 

so infernally ugly, I would sooner have . 

Roved about for two hours, ruminating on this sort 
of non-existence and on you. E. A., too, often accom- 
panies me. Got home safe at j4 P- 4- Mr. Elkton 
Hammond, merchant, to dine with us. A very intel- 
ligent young man ; admiring the works of B. Has 
two sisters ; one studies legislation, the other chym- 
istry 1 . The chymist said to be pretty. I am to dine 
there with B. on Thursday, when you shall hear more 
of them. This is the first time of Bentham's dining 
out. Mr. Slade sent me this morning a dozen Boston 
newspapers down to 14th October. What a nation 
of scoundrels you are, if one is to believe the 
gazettes ! 

29. Couche at 3. Rose at 9. I don't recollect 
to have told you that on my return from Weybridge, 
I had determined to set off immediately for Scotland. 
Six weeks have elapsed, and I am apparently (what 

1 So in the MS. An old form of spelling. 

21 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

hellish scrawls 1 ; I must try to do better, or this 
precious mem. will be lost to you and to the world), 
apparently no nearer departure than on the day of my 
return. Castella called with his friend P. at 11. P. 
is a pleasant, amiable young man. Each a niece ! 
Pauv. dia. z P. has offered me some interesting maps 
and papers. Had determined to go to-day to Wey- 
bridge ; but having neglected to secure a passage, the 
stage was full, &c. Went out at i to hunt a chess- 
table ; bought one, which, after buying, I found was 
not the thing. Gave it up on paying 2 shillings. 
Home at 2. A letter from Graves by Tom. Amer- 
ican news to November 8th, by a schooner which ran 
out of New York, the embargo notwithstanding. 
You go on exactly as I expected, and as I declared 
four months ago. At 3 to Donna. A very interest- 
ing woman ; a tall, graceful figure, and the eyes and 
hair of Italian beauty. No rouge, but interesting 
physiognomy. If I were to stay in town should 
pass many hours with Donna. To Falieri's at 5. 
Thence to Madame O.'s, having taken, by way of 
dinner, a jelly and biscuit on the way, 7 pence. 
Played two games of chess, and won both. Prompt 
payment — alarm — all ends well. Got home at x / 2 p. 
8. Read with Bentham an hour in Semple's " Trav- 
els in Spain." 

30. It is in the evening only that I write to you 
in this manner. After writing what you see of yes- 
terday, Koe came into my room about 12, and 



1 The description is perfect ! — Editor, 
z For pauvre diable. Poor devil. 



22 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

challenged me at chess. We played till 4 this morn- 
ing. I had ordered Anna to wake me at 7. She 
called at the hour. I answered and slept on till 10. 
Went out at 12. To Vickery, the celebrated perru- 
kier\ Covent Garden, to get a peruke for my country 
tour. Dressing my head in any fashion takes some 
time, and cannot be done on a journey ; so I have 
taken again to the wig. Called at Madame W.'s on 
my return. She says several have called without 
leaving their names, perhaps some one with letters 
from you ! The sight of your handwriting would 
make a jubilee in my heart. Found there a letter 
from Madame Prevost, and a very pretty one from 
Madame Godwin. Came home, answered Mrs. G.'s. 
Wrote also to Guillemard, from whom a second note 
came to-day. Found waiting for me in my room 
Captain C. Smith, whose civilities are unremitted, and 
of the most friendly kind. Went out again at 3. 
To a dozen cabinet-makers for a chess table. In vain ; 
there is no such thing. Got her, however, a Dupre 
seal, 7 shillings 6 pence. To Falieri's. He has tried 
again, and I think has now succeeded. He had 
adopted an improvement on my suggestion, which he 
now values very much ; but I had great trouble to 
make him do so. To Madame O.'s at x / 2 p. 5, 
having on the way taken a custard, a tart, and a cake 
for dinner, 1 and 1 pence. Pence are of some value 
here, but guineas of none. Took tea and played 
chess with O. and settled the winnings. Each score a 



I For perruquier. Peruke-maker. 

^3 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

game. Got home at 9. Found that D. M. 1 had 
called. What can have brought him ? I am, how- 
ever, most heartily glad he has come. I was just 
going to write him to come. He has been for some 
time at Bath. Read with B. and K. an hour in 
Semple. Wrote Madame Prevost and am now going 
to bed, yi p- i- The nose improves apace; hope it 
will be exhibitable to-morrow, and be fit for inspection 
of the legislatrix and the chymistress. Bon soir 1 ! 

London, December 1, 1808. Up at 7. Break- 
fast at 8. Some hopes of reform. Wrote several 
notes. At 11 came in D. M. R. Poetry! A little 
cracked, I fear. Perhaps the champignons he ate at 
Cheltenham of which il manquoit de mourir 1 — no doubt 
a little cracked. Soir'' at 1 to Turnevelli's ; abroad. 
Glad of it, for I would give 5 guineas that the thing 
were demolished ! To twenty cabinet-makers for 

chess table. None. To for seal for O. To 

Madame W . Chez moi at 3. B., K., and self 

began our march at 4. The distance 3 miles. 
Arrive at 5. T: Elton H.; two souers y assez bien. 

Mais ne disent mot. Le jeune frere bon franc 

physion. Un , pas homme. Un tres jeun bom. 

Clark probablement un clerk. Din. simpl. assez bon. A 
8 sor. pour rendezvous de Madame G. La vu seule. 
Un develupment tres franc. Elle a un excellent esprit. 
Ses projects sur U. S. Promts de don. un rendez. chez 
moi a mon retour a Weybridge. Retour a H. a 9. 



1 D. M. Randolph. 

2 Good evening. 

3 He almost died. 

4 Evening, or afternoon. 



24 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Music par Gam. La, la. Chez nous at n 1 . 

Chess with K. till i. 

i. Rose at 9. Breakfast at 10. D. M. R. at 1 1. 
Not quite so mad as yesterday, yet a little out. Con- 
sents to lay by the poem for some months. A very 
civil note from Guillemard, to which replied. Wrote 
several other notes. Sent trunks to get better locks. 
So much plague as I had to get trunks, and the locks 
are naught. Sor. 1 at yi p. 2. To Turnevelli's, who had 
been to hunt me. Sat only twenty minutes. He is 
determined to go through with it ; tries to encourage 
me ; finds it wonderfully like Voltaire ; but all won't 
do. It is a horrid piece of deformity. To Falieri ; 
not ready. To Miss Mallet. The most rational 
being I have seen. Staid a whole hour, and greatly 
pleased with her. Good breeding and social talents in 
a degree very rare. Why don't I go there oftener ? 
Because I do nothing that I wish or intend. At y£ 
p. 5 to Colonel Charles Smith, 14 Beaumont street. 
T: Colonel Kearney ; Von Sent, a respectable, quiet 
subject, living thirty miles from London ; Dr. Flana- 
gan, who was in Trinidad with Picton, whom he 
represents to be a man of rigid integrity and great 
disinterestedness. Took no fees or perquisites while 
governor. Such a man will not suit, and hence out of 
favour. Dr. F. is a sprightly, sensible, frank, well- 



1 Two sisters, pretty good. But they don't say a word. The young brother a good, 

open countenance. A , not a man. A very young man Clark, probably a clerk. Dinner 

simple, pretty good. At 8 go out to Madame G.'s rendezvous. Saw her alone. A very frank 
explanation. She has an excellent mind. Her schemes as to U. S. Her promise to give a ren- 
dezvous at my house on my return to Weybridge. Return to H. at 9. Music by Gamp. 

La, la. At home at II, [In this case La, la, might be French, La, la. There now !] 

2 For son. I go out. Used all through the Journal. 

2 5 



Private Journal of A a r o n Burr. 

informed man. Tendered many civilities. An abomi- 
nable tale was told of the P. of W of the 

annuity of ^200 to , the famous groom and 

jockey ; General , who has gone to command 

at Lisbon. His eulogy — Shaving the Seapoys — when 
secretary in Ireland. General Picton has two brothers 
in Wales. One a private gentleman, the other a 
clergyman. Three brothers, Pictons. Chez nous at 
y 2 p. 10. Passed one-half hour with B. and K. Pre- 
pare for journey. Couche at x / 2 p. 2. 

3. Had very carefully put Mr. Achaud's letter, 
my handkerchiefs, and other small articles in the 
pockets of the coat I intended to wear. Anna had 
put my room in order before I got down. After being 
two hours on the way, missed my handkerchiefs, and, 
upon quiet examination, discovered that I had taken 
the wrong coat. What a curse to have two coats at a 
time ! But the letter ; the letter of Madame A. to 
Madame P. ! Met at Brentford the coach going to 
town. Engaged the driver for half a crown to go to 
Bentham's for the letter. Wrote K. to give him it. 
Breakfast at Brentford, 1 shilling 6 pence. A sensible 
elderly lady in the coach, going to Madame Merry's, 
Chelsea. This cannot be our Madame Merry. Ar- 
rived at Wey bridge at T / 2 p. 1, having been five and a 
quarter hours on the road. Distance twenty-one 
miles. This is the usual rate of stage-coaching in this 
country, except the mail. At Madame Prevost's, her 
son, Lieutenant-Colonel William Prevost, and wife ; an 
Irish lady, Miss Hamilton. Her father now at , 

26 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

in Somerset, one brother, merchant in Liverpool, one, 
very young, merchant at Quebec, making a fortune 
out of the embargo. She offered a letter for you to 
her brother in Liverpool, in case you should land 
there. Dinner at 5 en famille 1 . Cards au soir z — perd? 
3 shilling 6 pence. In the forenoon walked with 
Madame Prevost. Met several Gunns, but not 
Eliza. After returning, called at Gunn's. He abroad. 
Madame and the five daughters chez elle A . All very 
accomplished. All talents. The mother and Eliza 
superior. Came home (to the tavern) at ^ p. 10. I 
refused a bed at Madame's, being more at my ease to 
smoke my segar and tell little T. what I have been 
about. But I don't tell y 2 nor %\ These are only 
notes to write from. Afraid to write out. 

4. Rose at 8. Breakfast at Madame P.'s. 
Walked through Oatland's Park to Walton, to see Mr. 
O'Callahan. Stopped at the outer Park gate, and got 
a passage after much difficulty. Mr. and M'lle O'C. 
abroad. M'lle chez elle et comme me paroit un peu sJ 
Urged to dine. Mr. Gunn came in ; going out, met 
Mr. O'C, who, with Gunn, walked with me over the 
commons, not choosing to try the Park on my return. 
Pointed out to me on an eminence, about one mile 
distant, a place formerly the residence of Edward III., 
and afterward of Cardinal Wolsey, now the property 
of a broker, who has taken down the ancient struc- 



1 In or with the family ; informally, as one of them. 

z In the evening. 

j For perdis, or perdu. Lost. 

4 At her house. 

5 At her house, and as it seems to me, a little s 



27 



Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr . 

tures, and put up a modern house in very bad taste. 
Near Weybridge met Madame Gunn and five 
daughters, with whom walked in the P^rk, and went 
to see the congaroos 1 and other beasts. Called on 
Mr. Bissett, once a very respectable clergyman at 
New York, now corrector of the press to a printing- 
office in Weybridge. He went home with me and 
staid till 5. Din. chez z Madame Prevost. T: Colonel 

P. et ux.; Captain et ux. Came home at 9. 

Mr. Gunn sent me a letter for his steward in Ireland. 
Madame Colonel P. gave letter to her brother at 
Liverpool, to whom she also wrote about T. The 
lost letter from Madame Achaud to Madame P. came 
by this day's mail, but charged with 8 pence postage. 
5. Got in stage at y 2 p. 7. Breakfast at Brent- 
ford. Arrived at ^ p. 1 1. Thus you see the rate of 
traveling. Stage fare going and coming, 14 shillings. 
To the coachman 1 shillings ; bill at Weybridge 1 1 
shillings 6 pence ; maid 1 shillings 6 pence ; two 
breakfasts 3 shillings ; an extra 1 shillings and 6 pence 
to the driver, who took my letter to Bentham. Total, 
35 shillings and 6 pence, though I lived at Madame 
P.'s. Took coach at Charing Cross, and went to 
Madame W.'s. My little villain, Tom, had been 
without orders and taken up my letters. Home at 1. 
Found letter from Guillemard, transmitting the laws 
of N. Y., and an invitation to dine to-morrow, which 
was obliged to refuse. Son at 1. To the Tower 



1 So in the MS. 

1 For diner chex. Dinner at the house of. 



28 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Coffee-house, Bond street, to see Dr. Flanagan. 
Denied that he lived there, though he gave it to me as 
his address. To Miss Mallet, with Madame Prevost's 
letter ; abroad. To Major-General Picton's, Ed- 
wards street ; abroad. To Falieri's, where staid an 
hour. Still not done. Returning, called at Madame 
Achaud's; nobody at home. Quod mirum 1 ! Byway 
of dinner, three oysters, jelly, and cake, 10 pence. 
Called at Godwin's at y 2 p. 5, knowing that he dines 
at 4. Found them at tea, and joined — the three 
daughters and little son. Agreed with Madame for 
rendezvous to-morrow at 1 1 at Mr. Lamb's 2 rooms. 
He is a writer, and lives with a maiden sister, also 
literaire 1 ) in a fourth story. Forgot — on my way from 
Achaud's, called on D. M. R., and walked half an 
hour with him. Mad again on poetry and politics. 
Chez nous y p. 8. Read an hour in the " Edinburgh 
Review" of the " Life of Washington." Descend at 
x />, p. 10. Spent two hours in hunting for some 
bank bills, my whole stock, and finally gave them up 
as lost. Found them when and where least expected. 
Couch'' at 1. 

6. Rose at y p. 9- Sor. at y before 11 to 
meet Madame G. Met at the door of the place. 
Walked about the Temple, which comprises a large, 
irregular square ; several small courts and alleys ; 
many handsome buildings ; two gardens on the banks 
of the Thames, very pretty. Madame had found a 



1 Latin. How remarkable ! 

2 Charles Lamb. 
1 Literary. 

4 For couche. 



29 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

more convenient place at the house of Mr. Norris, 
treasurer of something. A handsome parlour. Passed 
an hour and a half talking over the affairs of G., &c. 
Walked with her to Holborn, and then went to 
Turnevelli's, where sat an hour. Home at 4. Caught 
in the rain, having yesterday left my umbrella at 
Brentford — no doubt lost. Dinner, B. and K. Read 
out the review of the " Life of Washington " by 
Marshall and Ramsay. The review is full as stupid, 
and as illy 1 written, as either of the books. Came 
down to bring up your journal since Saturday, the 7th, 
lest such important incidents should not be recorded. 
I know you will rave like a little Juno if you are not 
told what I do, and where I go every day. I could 
write six or eight very amusing pages of the incidents 
of the last three days, but they must be said and not 
written. Sir M. G. called on me just as I got home 
to-day, and gave me his address at his new lodgings. 
Omitted : Yesterday called at O.'s ; she was engaged. 
Have not seen Donna, but hear that she is very ill. 
(My journal is four days in arrear. Half will be for- 
gotten. This is Saturday evening. I will try to 
recollect.) 

7. Rose at ten. Such is the mode in London. 
Sor. at 1. Going up Haymarket, met Madame O., 
and walked with her half an hour. Went to the 
stage-house in Piccadilly to inquire for my umbrella, 
but with little hope. It was there, brought by the 
coachman ; 1 shilling 6 pence. How very honest 



I So in the MS. 

30 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

people are here, and yet I am cheated most impu- 
dently every hour ! Met Sir Mark, and walked an 
hour with him. To Madame Duval. To Falieri's. 
To Turnevelli's ; not at home ; shall never be done 
with that fellow, and yet he tries his best ; but the 
strange irregularities and deformities of the face defy 
all art. To O.'s for ten minutes, to say I would come 

to-morrow. To Sir M. Gerrard's to dine at . 

Plagued to find the house. Like a true Irishman, he 
had mistaken his address. The same happened with 

Dr. Flanagan on Monday. Monsieur , the 

host of Sir Mark, has seen better days. He is now 
one of the pensioners of this government. Safemme, 
a pretty, amiable Angloise 1 , who speaks French per- 
fectly. Captain came in. Left Sir G. at 8, 

and went by way of Gray's Inn Lane to Godwin's, 
where stayed till yd p. 10, and then at a very rapid 
rate home — 26 minutes by the watch, being about 
three miles. Two shillings to beggar girls — pure 
benevolence. Just said bon soir to B., and came to 
my room. Chess with K. till 1. Sat up two hours 
after, packing up. Shall I ever get out of town to 
make this long-projected tour? Yes, on Saturday 
evening, pos. 2 

8. Rose at 10. Wrote to Reeves; to General 
Hope; to Crockatt; to Dr. Flanagan. Sor. at 1. 
Left Reeves's letter at his house, he not being at home. 
Left Dr. F.'s at the Tower Coffee-house. But before 
going out, Graves came in to tell me that the mail for 



1 His wife, a pretty, amiable English lady. 

2 For positively or possibly. 



3 1 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr. 

the packet would close at 5 P. M. this day ; yet 
instead of sitting down to write to you, you see what 
I did. From the Tower Coffee-house to Madame 
Duval's. Called at Beetham's and got my picture of 
Catherine L. To Reeves's ; he was reading my letter, 
and begged me to dine, being then l /i p. 4. I told 
him my distress about the packet. He sent a messen- 
ger to inquire. The mail would close at 5, but sailing 
orders would not go till to-morrow's mail, and he is 
to get your letter along with those of government. 
So staid to dine. Left them at 7, under pretence of 
my great impatience to write, and went off three miles 
to O.'s, where I staid till 10. Two games of chess, 
and was beaten both games, though I tried my best. 
Got home at y± after 11. Note: O. has found me 
out. Just spoke to B. and immediately came down to 
write. Couche at 3. 

9. Rose at 8 ; breakfast at 9. Castella came 
and took breakfast with me. Sent him off, being 
busy, and engaged to walk with him at 8. To Put- 
ney 5 miles to see Judge et ux. Had omitted 

to send yesterday to Mrs. W. Tom brought me the 
note of General Hope. Enclosed your letter and E. 

A.'s to Reeves — tried to write M. L. D. for G . 

Sor. at 2. To Turnevelli's. To Horse Guards to 
meet General Hope by appointment. Had an hour's 
confab and received an explanation. To testify his 
intimacy with Colonel Williamson, he showed me the 
very chiffre* which I had given Williamson. Many 



I Cipher, figure. 

3 2 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

courtesies and two letters for Scotland. Chez nous y£ 
p. 4. Dinner — Bentham and Koe. Post prandium 1 , 
went to see Godwin. Staid till 9. Took tea. The 
children all very glad to see Gamp. Home at 10. 
Talked an hour with B. and K. To bed at 12. 

10. Rose at 8. Breakfast at 9. Just as I had 
done, Castella came in. Gave him breakfast, and at 
Y% p. 10 began our march. Walked to Putney in 1 
h. 10 m. Saw Madame Th. only. He sick and 
child at school. Came off in wherry at 12, and got 
to Weybridge in 50 minutes ; 2 shillings 6 pence. 
The distance by water at least six miles. But Gamp 
has walked a great deal and is tired — now 2 o'clock. 
He will finish in the morning. When shall I begin 
my journey ? Alas ! alas ! 

Saturday, 10th, continued. On the way to Put- 
ney, we pass through the small towns of Chelsea, 
Battersea, and Fulham. At the last, cross a bridge 
over the Thames. The return by water is very beau- 
tiful. To Turnevelli's at 2. I wish I had never 
begun with him. To Falieri's. He has succeeded 
very well, except the colour. Home at 5. Din. B. 
seul. K dines abroad. The whole evening with K., 
seul. At 1 1 came down to my room. Read news- 
paper one hour. The poor Dons come out as I 
told you. Whether the British will get safe off is 
now the question. Just discovered that the under 
sheet of the last page is bottom upwards, which would 
have puzzled your luminous head for an hour if I 



Latin. After breakfast. 

33 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

had not told you. Journalized for an hour and went 
to bed at i. 

ii, Sunday. Slept like a log till 10, and then 
was called. The atmosphere is certainly narcotic. 
You see all along how enormously I have slept. 
Wrote Meeker to call. He came at 12. Captain 
Percival also an hour. Went to see the Donna; she 
had gone to mass. Called at Bridgwater's and 
Grimstone's, Grosvenor square. Neither of them in 
town, but Grimstone expected. Nevertheless I will 
go to St. Albans to-morrow to see him. His daugh- 
ters, two, are very sensible, amiable women. Went 
by Oxford street to Holborn, and took coach to 
Smithfield to see for a passage to St. Albans. 
Engaged a seat, and also a bed at the Angel Inn ; to 
go at 4 to-morrow morning. Paid 1 shilling earnest. 
To Godwin's, where discharged coach; 1 shillings. 
Half an hour with M. J. G.; then walked home by 
way of Covent Garden to avoid the Strand, which is 
forever so crowded and so dirty that there's no getting 
on with comfort. Home at 5. Dinner — B. and K. 
Immediately after dinner to work packing up. Wrote 
long letter to M. L. D. about Madame G.'s business. 
At x / 2 p. 10 all ready. Took leave of B., and sent 
for hack to transport me and my trunk, being, as you 
will see by your map, three good miles. No coach 
was to be had. Went myself — no coach; so here is 
Gamp, at 1 in the morning, at Queen's Square Place, 
writing nonsense to T. B. A. 1 , having let all his fire 



I His daughter. 

34 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr , 

go out and the last candle just gone. Played chess 
an hour with K. I have ordered Ann to wake me at 
7. For what? When shall I get off? 

12. Ann did call me at 7, but I slept, neverthe- 
less, a FAnglois 1 , till yi p. 9. Sent off Tom with 
notes written last night, but dated this morning, to 
M. J. G. and Mr. Graves, enclosing to him my letter 
to Davis. Tom is to bring word of the hour of the 
stage going to Gaddesden, being determined to go 
somewhere to-day. Tom did not return till 1, and 
brought word that the stage would go at ^ p. 1 ; so 
got coach and went off at a great rate. The stage 
had been gone 10 m. before I got there. Quoi faire 1 ? 
Resolved not to go back to Q. S. P 3 . I thought I 
would go and hunt for some coach going any hour 
to-day or night ; but having no place to put my trunk, 
was obliged to keep the coach. After running about 
for two hours and spending 9 shillings in coach hire, 
I discovered, what at any stage-house they might 
have told me, that no coach would go to Gaddesden 
till 1 P. M. to-morrow. Persisting in not going to 
Q. S. P., I e'en sat down with my trunk at the stage 
tavern in Oxford street, corner of Swallow. After 
depositing my trunk and ordering a fire in my room, 
sallied forth once more to Faleur's — then to see 
Graves, 10 Walgrove. Took coffee with Graves, a 
very respectable and intelligent young man, and 
extremely obliging. He makes inquiries, and does 



I For a V anglaise. After the English manner. 

2. What was to be done >. 

I Queen's Square Place, where Bentham resided. 



35 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

me many kind offices, which save me a deal of trouble. 
He is, I believe, a broker. The mother was there ; a 
very comely, decent Quakeress. The mother of eight 
or ten grown children. It is wonderful how the 
women wear in this country. In all my stage ram- 
bling to-day, I could not discover how to get to York. 
Graves has undertaken for me. Thursday is the day 
fixed for my grand tour to Scotland, Ireland, Wales, 
&c. On my way home took musk of a very indiffer- 
ent quality, 10 shillings i pence. Got home to the 
tavern at 8, and ordered coffee again, having only 
dined on a jelly, cake and tart, 10 pence. Great 
debate whether I would have it in my room or must 
descend to the coffee room. Note : I am in the third 
story, what is here called second floor. Finally the 
lady relaxed, and I had my coffee chez moi. Tobacco 
interdicted ; but I ventured to smoke my pipe up 
chimney, with a window open. No segar to be had. 
Tobacco very bad, 3^ p. an ounce. Something more 
than a dollar a pound. The Virginians would, at 
this time, be glad to get 10 cents per pound for 
tobacco of much better quality. A bed with very 
dirty sheets, to which I objected ; but the maid 
assured me, upon her honour, that they were very 
clean, and that she put them on herself. So I am 
bound to think them clean ; but shall, nevertheless, 
not undress. It is quite impracticable to get a good 
fire in any tavern. At 10 took bread and cheese and 
cider, by way of supper. Wrote all this, and after 
writing two letters to my Gaddesden friends, having a 

36 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

presentiment that I shall not get there, shall coucher*. 
Since beginning the preceding page, the servants have 
been three different times in my room to inquire 
whether they should put out my candles. To the 
first message I replied very distinctly that I always 
put out my own candles, and desired that I might not 
be again interrupted. This did not defend me against 
the two subsequent intrusions. The object of this 
affected civility is to save one inch of tallow. This 
very rigid calculation is universal. 

13. Rose at 9. At the tavern. No soap. 
Asked for a piece to wash hands. The maid said 
soap was so dear that she could not give it without 
leave, but she would go and ask her mistress, which I 
forbid, but gave her 1 shillings to go and buy me a 
piece. She " would tell the footman " — every one in 
their department ! A cake of soap was brought for 
15 pence, which will probably last me three months, 
which is at the rate of 1 penny x /± a week, and at 
this rate, if there should be twelve lodgers in the house, 
the value of the soap used by the whole would be 1 
shilling 3 pence per week and about 3 guineas per 
annum ! Had my breakfast in my room and at 1 1 
sor. To Vickery's to get the wig made more scratch- 
like and less dressy. To cabinet-maker's about that 
same chess-board. Returned to the tavern at 1, and 
found stage at the door. One shilling to the waiter, 
and bid him bring down my trunk and put it in the 
stage. He brought it down, but at the door handed 

I Shall go to bed. Here toucher is an infinitive. 

37 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

it to the porter, who handed it to the coachman, this 
being the porter's department. Two pence to the 
porter. At Hemel Hempstead (look at your map) 
found a beer club of about a dozen, smoking and 
drinking ale. Joined them. Took my pipe and 
called for my pint of beer. They bring a pipe, with 
a small bowl with tobacco. The tobacco is never put 
on the table. The maid fills it and hands it to you ; 
for each pipeful a j4 penny ; pint of beer 3 pence. 
Arrived at Little Gaddesden ^ p. 8. A note to 
Bartlett, inquiring, &c, and that I should call in half 
an hour. He being abroad, it was opened by Madame 
Bartlett, who immediately sent a servant to conduct 
me. But to be in order with my precise friend, Major 
G., I went first to his house ; there found a party of 
ten gentlemen over their wine, of which it appeared 
they had then drank quan. suf. 1 Bartlett and M'Car- 
thy were there ; also Halsey, M. P., lately married 
(two years ago) to a wealthy and pretty heiress, whose 
name he assumed ; Dr. and his son (a lieu- 
tenant of navy) ; Mr. , a handsome young 

man. After twenty minutes went to Bartlett's, where 
found Madame B., Madame Span, Mrs. and Miss 

. Took tea and passed the evening. At 10, 

Bartlett, M'Carthy, &c. came in. Urged to take bed 
both here and at Major G.'s ; but intending to set off 
at j4 P- 6 in the morning, preferred the tavern, where, 
after great efforts, I got a very small fire. Asked for 
more coal. The mistress brought up in her hand two 



Latin for quantum sufficit. As much as suffices. 

3^ 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

pieces, each about the size of a biscuit. Got a bottle 
of very good cider, and sat down to write. Note to 
Major Gamble ; to McCarthy ; to Dr. Bartlett desir- 
ing him to apologize for me to Lord Bridgwater. To 
bed at *4 p. 2. 

14. Rose at 6. Set off at 7. I sleep very 
soundly in these stage coaches. By sleeping, however, 
forgot to ask for my umbrella, which I had left at 
Stanmore. Took breakfast at Edgware, 1 shilling 3 
pence. Coffee, bread, and butter. If you have an 
egg or any other article, it is charged in addition. 
Arrived at 12 at the Bell and Crown, Holborn, where 
left my trunk till I should see about getting off to- 
morrow. Went on to the Berwick wharf in Burr 
street. The packet course ; passage 2 guineas for half 
a birth 1 , 3 guineas for a whole one. You are found in 
provisions. Stage-coaches go every morning at 7 for 
York, &c. Doubting which mode to adopt, walked 
back to the Bell and Crown. Paid 2 pence for leav- 
ing my trunk. Took hack and drove to Queen's 
Square Place at 4. Received in the most affectionate 
manner. How inexhaustible is the goodness of Ben- 
tham ! Hurried to dress, being engaged to dine with 
Judge Thorpe at Putney. Walked there and arrived 
just before 6, being five miles. They had despaired 
of me, and just sat down to dinner. The family and 
Castella. Affection of the children. Very pleasant. 
At y% p. 8 returned by the Richmond coach, which 
goes every hour from 8 A. M. to 8 P. M. Thorpe 



1 So in the MS. 

39 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

and Castella along. Set down in Pecad. and got to Q. 
S. P. at j4 P- 9- An hour with Bentham to give an 
account of myself. 

THE ADVENTURES OF GIL BLAS 
MOHEAGUNGK DE MANHATTAN. 

London, December 21, 1808. In a garret at 
the Black Lion, Water Lane, London. Having made 
half a dinner at Queen's Square Place, drove off furi- 
ously to the White Horse, Piccadilly, to be in time for 
the Oxford stage. Having waited half an hour and 
the coach not come, the weather cool, went in to warm. 
Having warmed half an hour, and wondering at the 
delay, went out to see. The coach had been gone 
twenty minutes. My honest coachman, as well to be 
sheltered from the storm as for repose, had got inside 
and was sound asleep. Drove to Gloucester Coffee- 
house to take the mail. Was advised to go to the 
Golden something, Charing Cross. Thither went. 
The mail was full, inside and out. Thence to the 
Saracen's Head. Thence to Fister Lane. Coach full. 
To the Black Lion, Water Lane, Fleet — full, inside 
and out. To the Old Crown, Holborn — no coach 
hence till Friday. To the Bolt Inn, where found a 
seat in a coach to go at 7 to-morrow, but no bed to be 
had. Went to the nearest inn, being the same Black 
Lion, where I am occupant of a garret room, up four 
flights of stairs, and a very dirty bed. In the public 
room, however, I have been amused for an hour with 
a very handsome young Dane. Don't smile. It is a 

40 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

male ! A merchant. I would have slept on the porch 
or walked the street all night sooner than have 
returned to Q. S. P. Coach hire 9 shillings. 

Oxford, December 22. Was called at 6, to be 
ready for the coach at 7. Gave my baggage to a por- 
ter, but, being stopped a minute to make change, he 
got out of my sight. I missed the way, and when I 
got to the Bolt Inn the coach had gone. My passage 
having been paid in the evening, there was no induce- 
ment to wait for me. Pursued and had the good for- 
tune to overtake the coach. Found in it one man. 
Having preserved perfect silence for a few minutes by 
way of experiment, I remarked that the day was very 
mild, which he flatly denied, and in a tone and man- 
ner as if he would have bit me. I laughed out 
heartily, and very kindly inquired into his morning's 
adventures. He was old, gouty and very fat. No 
hack to be had at that early hour, or, what is more 
probable, choosing to save the shilling he had walked 
from his house to the inn. Had fallen twice ; got wet 
and bruised, and was very sure that he should be laid 
up with the gout for six months. I sympathized with 
his misfortunes. Wondered at the complacency with 
which he bore them, and joined him in cursing the 
weather, the streets, and the hackney coachmen. He 
became complacent and talkative. Such is John Bull. 
We took in another fat man, a woman still fatter, and 
a boy. Afterwards, a very pretty, graceful, arch-look- 
ing girl, about 18, going on a visit to her aunt, Lady 
W. But M'lle was reserved and distant. At the 



4i 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

first change of horses she agreed to take breakfast, 
which we did, tete-a-tete 1 . I was charmed to find her 
all animation, gayety, ease, badinage. By the aid of 
drink to the coachman, our companions were kept 
three-quarters of an hour cooling in the coach. They 
had breakfasted. When we joined them the reserve 
of my little siren returned. After various fruitless 
essays, and at first without suspecting the cause, find- 
ing it impossible to provoke anything beyond a cold 
monosyllable, I composed myself to sleep, and slept 
soundly about eight hours, between London and this 
place, where we arrived at 8 this evening. (There 
must be something narcotic in the air of this island. 
I have slept more during my six months' residence in 
Great Britain than in any preceding three years of my 
life since the age of 14.) Took leave of my little 
Spartan. Mem : To write an essay, historical and 
critical, on the education and treatment of women in 
England. Its influence on morals and happiness. 
Thinking it too late to call on the provost (your in- 
structions are not lost on me), I wrote him a "polite" 
note, enclosing the letter, and proposing to see him in 
the morning, to which a polite answer was received. 

23. I was received with the distinction due to 
such a letter. His manner is mild, cheerful and 
courteous. He engaged me to dine, and sent for a 
young " fellow," who went with me through all the 
great buildings, and showed me all the strange things. 
Many of those for which I inquired he had never 



I For tete-a-tete. Together. 

42 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

before heard of. Everything here is for ostentation, 
and nothing for use. A manuscript of Home's 
" Mirror " was shown me, but evidently modern. A 
handwriting much like our Mr. Koe's. The librarian 
acknowledged that it was but a copy, and professed no 
knowledge of the original. The bust of Aristotle has 
a forehead very like yours. We were more than three 
hours traversing the various buildings. I was much 
gratified. My poor conductor nearly frozen. Two 
plump, hale " fellows " joined us at dinner. Study 
and abstinence had not yet impaired their rosy com- 
plexions. All is canonicals. The dinner was excel- 
lent and well served. The details of the conversation 
shall amuse you at another time ; but they cannot be 
written. A few hints may serve as memoranda. " I 
would rather our friend Bentham should write on leg- 
islation than on morals ! ' Holy Father, if ever one 
of thy creatures was endued with benevolence without 
alloy . All this was admitted, and the expres- 
sion was qualified and qualified, till finally it settled on 
the single point of divorce, and Hume was quoted. 
By mutual consent divine authority was laid aside, and 
I made a speech, which was very silly, for I ought to 
have turned it off with levity. The innate sense of 
religion. " The most barbarous nations have some 
religion. Has it not a great influence on the morals of 
your Indians ? " We then got on American politics, 
statistics, geography, laws, &c, &c, on all which a 
most profound and learned ignorance was displayed. 
The evening wound up pleasantly, and we parted with 

43 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

many expressions of courtesy. He appears to be of 
cheerful temper and amiable disposition. Yet, though 
he speaks of Bentham with reverence, and, probably, 
prays for him, I presume he thinks that he will be 
eternally damned, and I have no doubt he expects to 
be lolling in Abraham's bosom with great compla- 
cency, hearing Bentham sing out for a drop of water. 
Such is the mild genius of our holy religion. 

Brummigem, December 24, (though, indeed, I 
have heard it several times called Birmingham.) Left 
Oxford at 7 this morning. We were four inside. 
The only article of any interest was a pretty little 
comely brunette, who had been through Blenheim 
Castle, and all the other places of note within twenty 
miles. Could describe all the pictures and statues ; 
had read all the fashionable novels and poetry, and 
seemed to know everybody and everything. I was 
never more at a loss in what rank of beings to class 
her ; but was very much amused. At twenty miles 
we put her down at a very respectable farmhouse. I 
handed her in ; was introduced to her aunt : " My 
dear aunt, this gentleman has been extremely polite to 
me on the road." I received from aunt and niece a 
very warm invitation to call on my return, which I 
very faithfully promised to do, " whensoever," &c. 
" If," &c, &c. At Stratford, where lie the bones of 
Shakespeare, the barmaid gave me a very detailed 
account of the jubilee in honour of his memory. At 
about twenty miles farther was pointed out a very 
handsome establishment of Sir Smith, dit frere 



44 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

de Madame 1 Fitzherbert. For the last forty or fifty 
miles we had on board a strange, vulgar-looking fellow, 
who had been all over the world; spoke Latin, French, 
and Spanish; and in the course of three hours told me 
more than a hundred lies ; probably some itinerant 
Irish schoolmaster. The market place and the prin- 
cipal street, adjacent to which I am set down, is full of 
people. Tents, booths, lamps, candles, fiddlers, pipers, 
horns. Seeing nothing to amuse me within, I shall 
sally forth to see what's going forward without. But, 
first, I have taken passage for Liverpool, to set off at 
Yz p. ii, being advised that there is no other way to 
get on. Against my will, therefore, I go to Liverpool. 
We shall, from appearances, make a lively party. At 
this hour to-morrow I may have something more 
amusing to say. Now I go. 

12 o'clock. Still at Birmingham. Full of con- 
trition and remorse. Lost my passage. Lost or 
spent 28 shillings and a pair of gloves. Every bed 
in the house engaged. No hope of getting on but by 
the mail at 7 to-morrow morning. The office shut, 
and no passage to be taken to-night. What business 
had I to go sauntering about the streets of a strange 
place, alone and unarmed, on a Christmas eve ? 
Truly, I want a guardian more than at 15. It was 
K.'s fault that I left my dirk, and I could choke him 
for it. I have often heard that great sinners have 
relieved their consciences by full confession. Let us 
try. I sallied forth. There were hundreds of pretty 

1 Said to be the brother of Madame F. 

45 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

dressed folks of all sexes and ages, in little groups and 
very gay. I joined one party, and then another, and 
another. At length I got so well suited with a couple 
that we agreed to walk and see the town. I have always 
had a passion for certain branches of natural history. 
These, I thought, afforded me an opportunity of ac- 
quiring information ; and even now, amid all my regrets, 
I must acknowledge that it was a most instructive and, 
abating one rencounter, which had very nearly ended 
in a riot, a most amusing lesson. Hence it would 
seem that all this penitence is for the money and not 
for the folly, on which a very good theological dis- 
course might be written. The subject shall be recom- 
mended to our friend the provost. Indeed, I was very 
much amused. I heard many amusing anecdotes of 
the grandees of the town, and some strange and 
pretty things. At this moment it comes into my 
head how to redeem this 28 shillings. It shall be 
done and then peace of conscience will be restored. I 
will take passage outside. Half price only. I am 
resolved, and you shall see how I execute. 

Edinburgh, January 1, 1809. Got my best par- 
lour in order, expecting Lord Justice Clerk 1 . At 12 



I Charles Hope, Lord Granton (1763-1851), was educated at Edinburgh, admitted an advo- 
cate in 1784, and in 1801 was appointed Lord Advocate. In 1804 he was appointed an ordinary 
Lord of Session and Lord Justice Clerk in the place of Sir David Rae, and assuming the title of 
Lord Granton, took his seat on the bench on December 6, 1804. On November 12, 1811, he 
succeeded Robert Blair of Avontoun as Lord President of the Court of Sessions. In December, 
1836, he became Lord Justice General. In 1793 Hope married his cousin, Lady Charlotte Hope, 
second daughter of John, second Earl of Hopetoun, by his third wife, Lady Elizabeth Leslie. 
Burr's letter of introduction to Lord Justice Clerk was written by A. Cochrane Johnstone, of 
London, who said : " Permit me to introduce to your Lordship the bearer of this, the celebrated 
Colonel Burr, with whom our worthy friend, Charles Williamson, was very intimate. His 
talents, abilities, and amiable qualities will, I am confident, ensure him a place in your esteem. 
He proposes making a stay of only a few days in Scotland, during which time I have to request 
that you will render him any attention in your power. He is anxious to have an opportunity of 
making the acquaintance of the most learned of our profession, and to whom can 1 apply so well 
as to you to bring this about .' " 



46 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Arbuthnot came in, and afterward Colonel Smith. At 
2 went out. Met in the street and was introduced to 
Alexander M'Kenzie 1 , author of " Man of Feeling," 
being on the way to his house. Called on Jeffrey 2 
and handed him a letter. Called on Walter Scott ; 
on Lord Provost (Mayor). While Arbuthnot and 
Smith were sitting with me this morning, Lord Justice 
Clerk called, and was refused by the stupidity of a 
servant. Wrote Lord Justice Clerk, apologizing, 
accepting his invitation and enclosing Colonel J.'s 
letter. At 5 went to dine with Mr. Jardine, an advo- 
cate. Delayed a whole hour, not being able to find 
the house. The coachman more ignorant than myself. 
Met there Erskine, brother of the Lord Chancellor 
and of the Earl of Buchan, and heir apparent to the 
title ; Colonel Alexander Munro ; Madame Munro ; 
the Colonel has been fifteen years in India, and very 
lately returned ; the Rev. Mr. Morehead ; Mr. Forbes, 

son of Sir Forbes ; Madame Bruce, femme de 

Bruce, son of the traveler. He was confined 

with the rheumatism, and did not appear. Henry 
M'Kenzie, advocate, son of the author of the " Man 
of Feeling." 

1. Note from Lord Justice Clerk. Message 
that the Lord Provost would call. Waited at home 



1 But it was Henry M' Kenzie, not Alexander, who wrote the novel of this name. He was 
also the author of " The Man of the World " (1773), " Julia de Roubign^ " (1777), etc. Under 
date of February 12, 1809, Burr wrote to his daughter : " Among the literary men of England 1 
have met M'Kenzie, author of the ' Man of Feeling,' and Scott, author of the l Minstrel.' I 
met both frequently, and from both received civilities and hospitality. M'Kenzie has twelve 
children — six daughters, all very interesting and handsome. He is remarkably sprightly in com- 
pany, amiable, witty — might pass for 42, though certainly much older. Scott, with less softness 
than M'Kenzie, has still more animation; talks much, and very agreeably." At this time 
M'Kenzie was 64 and Scott 38. 

2 Lord Francis Jeffrey (1773-1850), founder, and for twenty-six years editor of The Edin- 
burgh Review. 

47 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

till 2, he not coming, sorti 1 . Called on Bishop 
Cameron ; thence to Arbuthnot's. Snowstorm ; re- 
turned home. Robert Dundas, during my absence, 
left a card. While dressing, Mr. and Mrs. Erskine 
called — denied. Madame left an invitation for the 
evening of the 6th. While dressing, also, Mr. Jeffrey 
and brother, nephew of Jeffrey of Boston. The brother 
had known A. B. 2 in Philadelphia ; also, Sir H. Camp- 
bell, for twenty-five years Lord President of the Court 
of Sessions ; also, Lord Frederic Campbell, uncle of 
Duke of Argyle, Lord Register. 

4. Lev. at y 2 p. 8. Mr. Gordon, by appoint- 
ment, called ; sat half an hour, and tendered all sort of 
civilities. Sor. at 12. To Mrs. Lockhart, 3 Heriot 
Row. She was a Crawford, born in Holland of Scotch 
parents ; Madame Court-Lockhart ; has now charge of 
M'lle D. V.; not at home. To Mr. Jardine's, where 

saw Mr. and Mrs. ; urge me to pass a day at 

, the residence of the late traveler Bruce, and 

now of his son and heir. To Mr. Arbuthnot's, 47 
Queen Street. Madame and M'lle. Home at 2. 
Mr. Hume came in and claimed acquaintance, having 
dined at my house with Madame and his two nieces, 
Houstons, about 1803 ; is passing some weeks in town 
at Mr. Walker's, who has made a fortune in the East 
Indies. Sor. at l / 2 p. 2. To Walker's, 21 Queen's 
Place, to see Mr. and Madame Hume. T : also Mr. 
and Madame Walker and three daughters. Invited 
to dine, which accepted, hoping to hear fine music. 



I For je suis sorti, or je sortis. I went out. 
% Meaning himself. 



48 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

The daughters very fine ; the two elder, jolie, belle — 
la jeune, genie 1 . To D. Williamson's 2 , from whom had 
just received a very friendly note. He showed me 
many letters addressed to Charles Williamson. Saw 
there little Charles Alexander. Took coach to come 
home for dispatch ; i shillings. Dress and out at 5 ; 
coach 1 shilling 6 pence. While I was out the Mr. 
M'Kenzies, father and son, called and left cards. 
Found, also, an invitation from George Dundas and 
wife, for Wednesday, to which wrote yes. At dinner 
at Walker's. The family, Mr. and Mrs. Hume, Mr. 
Ogilvie, who had made a fortune in the East Indies, and 
wife, very sprightly ; Sir William Fettus, Madame 

Wauchope, sister of Sir Baird ; her daughter, a 

most lovely and fascinating girl. In face and person 
something like Miss M'Kevers (Van Ness) 5 , but all 
animation, sensibility, and intelligence ; a son of Ma- 
dame Wauchope, a very handsome and intelligent lad, 
18, in the navy; a son of Mr. Ogilvie, 22, also sup- 
posed navy ; les trois M'lles Walker 4 played and sang 
Scotch songs for me. Took one rubber at whist ; won 
1 shilling. Off at 10. Trop bu 5 , drank lemonade and 
smoked black tobacco till 1. Amused by the singing 
of a jovial party in an adjoining room. 

5. Rose at 8. Took chaise and drove out to 
Lord Justice Clerk's to breakfast. He had break- 
fasted, but got [breakfast] for me. A pair of Shetland 



1 The two older ones pretty, beautiful — the young one a genius. 

2 David Williamson, Lord Balgray, was a brother of the late Colonel Charles Williamson. 

3 Mrs. William P. Van Ness, whose husband, an eminent New York lawyer, was Burr's 
second in the duel with Hamilton. 

4 The three Misses Walker. 

5 Having drunk too much. 

49 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Island knit gloves. Lady Charlotte Hope. Very 
interesting confab. Lord Hope walked two miles with 
me. Got home at ^ p. 3. Found card from Colonel 
Smith, and notice to dine at 4. Note from Mrs. Gor- 
don with the letters of " Amicus ' : in answer to Lord 
Selkirk. Din. c/iez moi. At 8 to Mrs. Erskine. 
Duchess Gordon, Lord Tweedale, Miss Dallas, Mrs. 
Munro, from Jamaica by way of New York, Lady 

, who introduced me to her husband, Mrs. 

, who came with a gentleman in black scratch, 

Mrs. Erskine, Lady Jane, Miss Dalzelle and brother 
with crutch. 

6. Rose at 8. Sor. at 1 1 to M'Kenzie's, No. 6 
Heriot Row ; out. To Walker's. Mr. W. and Mr. 
Hume were just going out to see me. Mrs. W. 
prayed us to dine. To Jeffrey's ; the two brothers. 
Chez moi, where found Mr. Hope's card. He had 
called to remind me of Saturday evening ; music. To 
Mrs. Erskine's ; not at home. Chez moi. Mr. Jar- 
dine called while I was dressing. To Colonel Smith's 
to dine at */ 2 p. 4. Fourth story. Colonel S. and his 
sister, Mrs. Dundas ; Captain Duncan, an old sea 
captain who has been much in North America ; Mr. 
M'Cormick, cousin of David, lived ante-war in Vir- 
ginia ; was at New York during the war ; Dr. ; 

Captain McDowell, four years in the army ; very 
impressive young man ; married to , a corre- 
spondent of Madame Sp. 

7. Rose at 11. Sor. at 1. To D. Williamson's 
who had received a letter from Lord Hopetoun, 



5° 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

inviting me to visit Hopetoun House, with any friends 
I pleased. To dine. Walked with D. W. to the 

, where are warm baths. To Jardine's ; all 

out. Chez moi. Found note from Mrs. Gordon 
inviting me at request of Mrs. Johnstone to pass 
some days at her place near Sterling. To dinner at 
Jeffrey's. T: Scott, minstrel; Johnstone; two Jeff- 
reys, &c. At 9 took chair and went to J. Hope's, 54 
Prince street. T: The three Misses Hope, daughters 

of Hope; Miss H., sister of ditto ; M'lle 

Houston, bien jolie 1 ; two Misses Walker, sisters of 

Mrs. Hope ; Miss , ang/ois*; Mrs. Clarke, 

elderly ; Mr. and Madame (or Miss) Duff. The 
second Miss Hope plays superieurement 1 on piano. 
Jane Walker sang in a style quite new to me and very 
delightful, several Scotch songs. Chez moi at 12. 

8. Rose at 11. Sor. at 1. Chez James H.; 
pas 4 . Chez Arbuthnot ; sor. avJ to Magdalene 
Asylum ; pas admis 6 . To Colonel Smith's. Y: Cap- 
tain Duncan who engaged me to dine on Saturday. 
Chez moi at 3. Found cards of Hume and Walker. 
At 4^ to dine. T: M'Kenzie, Clerk, Vic. Ker 7 , b. 
d'esprit*, Mr. Arbuthnot, and sa mere. Ancien. con- 
naissance de Madame Bartlett 9 who was Mrs. Munro. 
Left at about 10. Received a letter. 

9. Vigils till 6. Rose at 11. Mr. Clune, the 

1 Very pretty. 

2 For anglaise. English. 

3 In a superior manner. 

4 For pas chex, lui. Not at home. 

5 For sors avec. Go with him. 

6 Not admitted. 

7 Vicompte Ker. Viscount Ker. 

8 For beaucoup d' esprit. Lots of wit, or intelligence. 

9 For ancienne connaissance de. Old acquaintance of Madame Bartlett. 

5 1 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Sheriff, called before I was up. Left card and invited 
to sup the ioth. Before I had breakfast, Colonel 
Smith and Captain M'Dowell, whose wife is niece of 
Bartlett, sat y 2 hour, and engaged me to dine Friday. 
Breakfast at i. Sor. to Jeffrey's. Left with him Bay- 
ard's speech and " Agrestis 1 ". Interrupted by a lady 
To D. Williamson's ; not at home ; left note for him 
about dining at Lord Justice Clerk's, and the medi- 
tated visit to Hopetoun House. Met him as I went 
out. Sat y 2 hour. Chez moi to dress at x / 2 p. 3. 
While dressing, Hume called, and left card and mem. 
reminding of engagement to dine Saturday. At 4 
took post-chaise and went to Lord J. Clerk's. T: 
Mrs. Hope, wife of General Hope, now in Spain, 
belle, interess. y chev. jaune z ; Wedderburne ; Lord Ch. 
Baron Dundas, nephew and son-in-law of Lord Mel- 
ville ; Lord J. Clerk toujour pot. 1 ; his arrangements for 
Hopetoun House. Return at y 2 p. 9. Paid post- 
chaise and coachman 16 shillings 6 pence. Wrote 
note to Arbuthnot asking interview this night (about 
Walsh) ; to Mr. Clerk, accepting his invitation ; to 
Williamson about the visit to Hopetoun House. 
Rene, en ret. 4 Mary McKay at Madame's. Dr. 
Hume, son-in-law of Captain Duncan, called and left 
card and invited to dine on Saturday. 

10. Couche y 2 p. 1. Rose at 11. Raining. 
Still warm. Sor. at 1. Mr. Williamson cbez Madame 



1 A pamphlet detailing General Wilkinson's intrigues at New Orleans. Alston, Burr's son- 
in-law, was suspected of the authorship. Blennerhasset said that that was " preposterous ", but 
that Alston's wife, Theodosia Burr Alston, might have written it. 

2 For belle, int'eressante, cheveux jaunes. Fine-looking, interesting, yellow hair. 
J For toujour; poli. Always polite. 

4 For Rencontrai en retournant. On returning met. 

5 2 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Major Robertson. Belle taille 1 . 'Tres ■poliment recu. z 
To Duchess of Gordon at Dornbeck's hotel. Elle 
seulK The medal, &c. Half an hour. To the 
Bridewell. Panopticon. Vid. notes inde*. Chez moi. 
Din. seule en chambK Rien fa. jusq. a <? 6 . To Mr. 

Clerk's. T: Admiral , who lost an arm at 

Dogger Banks; Mr. Duff; M'lle Duff; Mr. and 
Mrs. Clerk ; son of ditto, aged 1 5 ; Mr. and Mrs. 
James Hope ; Dr. Hope, professor of chemistry ; 
Judge Hume. Staid till 12. Invitation from Mr. 
Walker for Wednesday the 18th. Question about 
accepting. Before going out this evening wrote to D. 
Williamson proposing Thursday for the Hopetoun 
House party. Chez Duchess Gordon. Lady Jane 
Montague, 18, and her little sister. 

11. Having eat and drunk too much yesterday, 
was obliged to sit up till 5. Rose at 12. Note from 
D. Williamson before I was up, proposing Thursday 
for Hopetoun House, to which assented. Sor. y 2 p. 
1. To Dr. Hume's, 34 Yorke Place ; not at home, 
but saw Captain Duncan. To Mr. Arbuthnot's, x / 2 
hour. To Jeffrey's ; not at home. Chez moi at 4. 
Williamson called for me to go with him to our dining 
room before I was dressed ; kept him waiting ^ hour 
and went to Mr. John Dundas. T: Mr. J. D. ; 
Robert D., wife, and her sister, the same I met at 



1 Fine figure. 

2 Very politely received. 

3 She alone. 

4 Latin and English. See notes thence i. e., taken from that. " Panopticon " was the title 
of one of Bentham's works. 

5 Dinner alone in my room. 

6 For rien fait jusqu a 9. Nothing done till 9. 



S3 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Charles Smith's in London ; D. Williamson ; Mr. 
and Madame Irvine ; Mrs. Ferguson ; her son and 
daughter, he an average American young man ; Mrs. 
Wallace ; two Misses Rollo, sisters of Lord Rollo ; 
and Major William Drummond, who had served in 
the West Indies and is now going to Spain, a fine, 
sensible, soldierly, well-bred man. We came off 
together and he urged me to go and take supper and 
pass an hour with him at his hotel. Went, supposing 
he was a bachelor ; came in Madame D., a most lovely 
woman, his wife, who had been three years with him 
in the West Indies ; Lord and Lady Rollo and 
another Miss Rollo. Passed an hour pleasantly. 
Chez moi at y 2 p. n. Wrote to Madame Gordon. 

12. Rose at Y / 2 p. 7. Mr. Williamson called in 
a post-chaise. At Y / 2 p. 9 we drove off; a fine, clear 
day. Stopped for an hour at Ferry ; a com- 
pact village. Great number of fishing boats. Views. 
Cromwell's mother. Miss Stewart of the blood royal. 
Dinner ; two wines ; four fries. Pictures. Hercu- 
laneum. Home at y 2 p. 8. Sor. ; 37 shillings. 

13. Rose at y 2 p. 10 in very bad order, having 
been up three or four hours with the bu? Took de 
ere. tar. punch 2 . At 12 Mr. Walker and Dr. Hume 
called and were denied. American newspaper. Packet 
arrived in twenty-three days. Colonel Smith called 
and denied. Dr. Hume called again at 3 and sat x / 2 
hour. Colonel G. at 4. Walked to dinner at Captain 

1 Drinking. Literally, with (having) drunk. On this day Burr wrote a letter to Jeremy 
Bentbam in London in which he said : " I lead a life of the utmost dissipation. Driving out 
every day and at some party almost every night. Wasting time and doing many silly things." 

2 Took cream tartar punch — a favorite cure of Burr's when he was " in bad order" in the 
morning. 

54 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

M'Dowell's in snow storm. Y : Captain M'Dowell's 
two mothers and Miss Donald ; Colonel Patterson ; 
Major Cameron ; Dr. Spence. Rode home in Colonel 
P.'s carriage with him and Miss Donald — which was 
tres mal fai 1 . Captain M'Dowell urged us to sup. 
Chez moi y p. 9. Sor. 10. Major Cameron's. T: 
Johnston, la chanteuse z \ two Madame Camerons. Chez 
moi at y p. 11, tres mecon. de moi 1 . Finished letter to 
Koe. Began one of apology to J. B. All flat and 
bad. Couche at 2. Invaded by tous les Diab. de reprou*. 
Vigils till 5. Omitted : Mr. Arbuthnot called this 
forenoon to let me know that Mrs. A. had brought 
him a daughter. 

14. Rose y p. 10. Mieux qu on doit attendre s . 
Before I had done breakfast Lord Justice Clerk called 
and sat y hour. He has written to Lord Melville. 
The Lord Justice is colonel of a regiment of volun- 
teers and had been out exercising them three hours this 
morning. Moi dor ! I 6 At 12 Robert Dundas and 
Dr. Coventry called and were received. The Dr. a 
pleasant, sprightly, sensible man ; par. aimable 1 ; asked 
me to dine, but I declined to fix a day. R. Dundas 
said he was writing to Captain Smith, and asked my 
commands. Desired him to order on my letters and 
did not send the letter written for that purpose to 
Captain S. Finished my letter to J. B., a mere note 

1 Very badly arranged (fai for fait. Done.) 

2 The vocalist. 

3 For tres mecontent de moi. Greatly displeased with myself. 

4 Reprou. for reprouve. Reprobate. Hence, invaded by all the demons of the lost, the 
reprobate. 

5 Better than one ought to expect. 

6 For moi dormeur ! Sluggard that I am ! 

7 For particuliirement aimable. Especially amiable. 

ss 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

on the same sheet with that of K. ; also one to 
Meeker ; sent both to post-office. Sor. at 3 to 
Arbuthnot's ; out ; compliments and enquiries to 
Madame, who had yesterday a daughter. Home at 
4. Dress and at y± before 5 called on Colonel Smith 
to go with him to Dr. Home's, 34 Yorke Place, to 
dine. He was not going ; arrived at Home's too 
soon. Mr. Home abroad; nevertheless Madame H. 
received me very politely. At dinner, Mr. Home 

and wife and Captain , her father, an old sea 

captain, Madame H. the only child; Mr. Ferguson, 
barrister, et ux., a pretty, pale, delicate blonde, tres 
jeune 1 ; Mr. Thompson, author of a collection of 
Scotch songs in four volumes and himself bien fer. en 
Mus z . — advocate, je croP; Mr. Gillespie, a very hand- 
some, gentlemanly young man ; Mr. Huyck or Hyck 
et ux. — un fern, aimable and comely 4 ; a lovely little 
daughter of 9, qui danse comme une ange s \ Mrs. Gil- 
more, jeu. veu. 22 tres ri 6 . and very beautiful ; Miss 
Brown, daughter of Captain Brown, handsome et 

aimable et well bred; two M'lles ; the elder 

sings divinely, the cadette 1 pretty, manque tournure*; 
Judge Hume and wife. Much good music and sev- 
eral Scotch songs in a very superior style. Madame 
H. plays and sings extremely well. Miss Brown was 
intimate with Miss M'Pherson, now Mrs. Pringle, 

1 Very young. 

2 For bien fervent (fervent in) or fertile (fruitful, abounding in) the Muses, i. e., poetry. 
Mus. may refer to musique. Music. 

3 A lawyer, I believe {je crois). 

4 For une femme, etc. A comely and amiable woman. 

5 Who dances like an angel. 

6 For jeune veuve, 22, tres riche or riante. A young widow of 22, very rich (or smiling, 
cheerful). 

7 The younger. 

8 Lacks figure. 

56 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

and asked her address. Met her at Bath. Mr. 
Thompson begged I would accept from him a letter 

to Mrs. Grant (Sterling), author of . Dr. H. 

begged me to fix a day to meet a literary party at his 
house and to name any whom I particularly wished to 
see. 

1 6. Rose at 1 1. To Arbuthnot's ; out. To D. 
Williamson's to confer about conflicting dinners. To 
James Gordon's, 8 South Castle street. Tres bi. recu 
par Mr. et Madame 1 . Author of " Amicus." Bought 
Brown's reply to Selkirk. 

17. Rose at 1. Captain M'Dowell called before 
I had breakfasted. Walked with him to Leith. The 
docks. Engaged to dine with him on Friday. On 
return, found cards of Baron Norton and Colonel 
Smith. Note to Dr. Home to inform M'lle Brown 
of the address of Miss M'Pherson, and asking for 
Ashe's " Travels." Read two hours in Ashe 2 . Full 
of lies. Believe he has never been over the country 
he describes. His letter of introduction from Burr to 
Colonel Bruin ! At r / 2 p. 9 went to the Duchess of 
Gordon's. T : Lady Montfort ; Charlotte Hope ; 
Duchess of Manchester; M'lle M'Kenzie. Mr. 
Walsh causes himself to be introduced to me by Jeffrey. 
Duchess of Manchester opened ball with reel, and then 
at head of common dance ; Lady Jane Montague ; her 
daughter next. Supper very handsome. All very 
gay. Left them dancing at 5. Mrs. Dundas ux. du 

1 For tres bien re\u par. Very well received by. 

2 " Travels in America, performed in 1806, for the purpose of exploring the rivers Allegany, 
Monongahela, Ohio, and Mississippi, and ascrtaining the Produce and Condition of the Banks 
and Vicinity." By T. Ashe. London: 1808 ; three volumes. 

57 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

chef baron 1 engages to receive me at Sir H. Campbell's. 

Mrs. Lockhart ; D. V. not there. The reels 

after supper — pure Scotch reels — catches, glees, all 
very social. Mem : While walking this morning with 
Mr. D., met Lord Justice Clerk, who said that he had 
just received a letter from Lord Melville about Gamp, 
which will require him at London. Arbuthnot called 
this morning to introduce Governor Houston, a 
sprightly, well-bred man, c. d. % governor of Grenada. 
Married, but pas enf. Ric. 1 M'lle Erskine, daughter 
of the late Chancellor — the form, the eyes, the hair, 
and manner of Theodosia. 

1 8. Queen's birthday. Rose at 11. Sor. Y / 2 p. 
11. Mr. Moir; out. Dr. Home ; found Madame at 
home with a lame eye. Lady Charlotte Hope ; out. 
Madame Erskine ; out. Madame Clerk ; out. Gov- 
ernor Houston ; out. Baron Norton ; out. D. Wil- 
liamson ; out. Left note for him asking to write that 
I must come to Sir H. Campbell's. Arbuthnot; sat 
with him 5 minutes. Chez moi at y 2 p. 3. At 5 went 
to dine at Walker's. T: General Maxwell; Mr. 
Baron Hepburn and wife, a very lively old lady ; Miss 

Trotter, bien grand, fait mat. 4 32 ; Miss and 

Miss , a relation of the family ; Dr. Home ; 

two M'lles Walker ; Mr. and Mrs. Walker ; Judge 
Hume et ux. After dinner sat Y / z hour av. les dames*. 
Took hack and went to Sir H. Campbell's. Madame 
chef baron has agreed to patronize me. Tres bien recu 

1 Wife of the head baron. 

2 For ci-devant. Hitherto or formerly. 

3 For fas a" enfanti. Riche. No children. Rich. 

4 For bien grande, malfaite. Very tall, ill-shaped. 

5 With the ladies. 

58 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

par Sir J. C. T: Lord Campbell; Margaret Trues- 
dale ; Mr. Chief Baron et ux.; Mr. Dundas et ux., son 
frere 1 ; Madame int err ess ante 1 , 32; unfis % , ill; Miss 
Campbell ; Madame Colquhoun, her younger sister, a 
widow of two years sans enfS ; Justice Clerke et ux ; 

Colonel and , an old advocate, once a 

man of wit ; a young gentleman not named, but ap~ 
pavement* related to the family. Staid till 10. Then 
walked to the assembly room, 1 mile, very cold. Sans 
surtout ou gans 6 ; continued badly. At the assembly 
rooms, which are very handsome, Duchess Gordon, 
Duchess B., Lady Montfort, Lady Primrose, Lady 
Duncan, Lady Sinclair, and her daughters, M'lle 
Walker, and others. Home at 1. 

19. Rose at 11. Duchess of Gordon, who said 
many civil things ; Madame Ferguson ; Mr. and Ma- 
dame F., Mrs. F., his brother's wife, belle femme ; two 
loving children ; a pretty child of Madame F. To 
Mr. Moir's, 20 Queen ; out. To Mr. Gordon's, 8 
South Castle street, to dine. T : Baron Norton and 
wife ; Mr. Young, advocate ; Mr. Moir, of Aberdeen, 
cousin of Madame Gordon, un excellent homme 1 ; Mr. 
Story ; Mr. and Mrs. Boyle, (soldier gent.). 

20. Rose at 11. Answered M'lle Williamson's 
note. Arbuthnot called and brought me letters from 
Koe, T. B. A. 8 , Bollman, and Madame d'Auvergne. 



1 His or her brother. 

2 An interesting woman. 

3 For un fils. A son. 

4 For sans enfants. Without children. 

5 Apparently. 

6 For gants. Without overcoat or gloves. 

7 An excellent man. 

8 Theodosia Alston Burr, his daughter. 



59 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

The Hopewell taken, with all my letters, the bust, &c. 
My presence in London demanded. Message from 
Castella. Sor. at I. To Mr. Williamson's; Mr. 

Home. T : Captain Duncan and M'lle , the 

chanteuse ; ridiculous blunder not recollecting M'lle. 

To Walker's. T : Madame and the two 

Mademoiselles. To Arbuthnot's ; Lord Justice Clerk 
urges my going to London. Lord Melville's letter to 
him. Returning home found cards from Mr. Young, 
Mr. Hope, and Colonel Smith. At 5 walked with 
Colonel Smith to Captain M'Dowell's. T : Captain 
Kemp, a young Englishman who was in the army and 
three years in the East Indies ; Mr. Kennedy of Ayr- 
shire, a sprightly gentlemen of 50 ; Madame Knight 
and son ; two daughters Madame K., relation of David 
M'Cormick. Off at 9. Colonel Smith, Captain K., 
and Captain M'D. walked with me to my lodgings. 

21. Rose at 12. Up all night with crem. ta. pun. 1 
Sor. at 2. To Dr. Home's ; Mr. H. and Captain 
Duncan. To Alexander Young, 48 Queen ; out. 
To M'lle M'Kenzie's; out. To Gordon's; ]/ 2 hour 
with Mr. and Madame. To Jardine's ; out. To Vic. 
Clerk's ; out. To Sir H. Campbell's ; all out, but 
when I had got a few paces, sent for by Sir H. ; 
passed y 2 hour in his library ; of trial by jury, &c. ; 
elegant house. To D. Williamson's. He has written 
to General A. Hope about Gamp and expects answer 
on Tuesday. Chez moi at y 2 p. 4. Found letter from 
Meeker assenting to my draft, and note from Mr. 



Cream of tartar punch. 

60 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Gordon inviting me to go to the theatre with Mr. 
Irvine. Sor. at 5 to dine with Ferguson, 41 George 
street. T : Mr. and Mrs. F.; blonde, mince, delicat, 
aimable\ ci dev. z Home ; her uncle the author of 
" Douglass." Mr. and Madame Boyle, advocate- 
general ; Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher. Mad. est d'un 
esprit forte 1 ; principal directress of the House of 

Industry. Mr. who was in U. S. before 

guerre*; de bon sens*. Mr. and Mrs. ; Mr. and 

M'llse ; Madame F. ux.de Dr. F. who is in 

Portugal, belle f em? with three lovely children. After 
dinner, American affairs. Sor. at 9. To theatre. 
T : Madame Gordon ; Mr. and Mrs. Irvine and her 
sister ; both handsome. Cinderella. The little Miss 
Rock or Rocque ; lovely child. 

22. Couche at 2. Rose at 8. Read an hour in 
Ashe's "Travels," and did nothing till 12, when Cap- 
tain M'Dowell came in and we walked to Holyrood 
Palace ; a grand structure far above St. James's. To 
the Horse Guard's barracks, a very handsome estab- 
lishment. To Porto Bello, a place for sea-bathing, 
hot or cold, in doors or out. A very pretty village, 
greatly resorted to by the Edinburghers and Leithites 
in summer, two and a half miles from Edinburgh and 
on the sea. Walked along the shore (a fine beach), to 
Leith. The glassworks ; about the docks, which can- 
not be too much admired. Leith supposed to contain 

1 Blond, thin, delicate, amiable. 

2 Fox ci-devant. Formerly, heretofore ; probably here meaning " whose name was formerly 
Home. 



3 Madame has a strong mind. 

4 The war. 

5 Of good sense, or has good sense. 

6 For belle femme. 



6l 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

20,000 inhabitants. Home at 3. Ferguson had called 
and left his pamphlets. An invitation from Mr. and 
Mrs. Young for the 31st inst., to which wrote negative, 
intending to leave town on Thursday. N. B. — This 
is the coldest day this year, and many say within 
memory. Walked an hour seul in quest of adventure ; 
got home without any, but with mischievous inten- 
tions. Dinner seul. Sent out porter to notify Ma- 
dame that I would take tea there ; went. E. G. 
Staid till 11. Ten shillings 6 pence to Madame; 14 
shillings to E. G.; 2 shillings to doms. 1 ; 16 shil- 
lings 6 pence. Tea at home. Couche 1. 

23. Rose at 8. Mr. Hume (Judge Hume) 
called. The Lord Advocate left card and invitation to 
dine on Friday. Went to consult Williamson whether 
I ought to stay. He said I must ; that the Lord 
Advocate is the intimate friend of Lord Melville, &c, 
so sent acceptance. On the way home, met Judge 
Hume, and walked with him. Governor Tonyn's 
ideas about the west country. Various good sug- 
gestions and a most friendly interest. To Gordon's, 
8 Castle street. Saw Mr. and Madame. Home at 
3. Took coach at 5 to dine with Baron Norton. T: 
Mr. Young, advocate; Mr. Ferguson, M. P. for 

; Mr. Gordon, son of Sir A. Gordon, near 

Dumfries ; Mr. Storey, whom I met at J. Gordon's ; 
Mr. and Mrs. James Gordon ; Baron Norton et ux., 
cousin of Madame Gordon. Baron Norton has seven 
children, very beautiful. M'lle Hastie. Excellent 



I For domestiques. Servants. 

62 



Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

dinner, and excellent wines. The hermitage 1 and claret 
the best. Staid till 10 and came home with Mr. Gor- 
don of D. and Mr. Ferguson. The Baron repeats 
his invitation to take a bed, &c. Invitation to dine on 
Wednesday with all the Barons, which accepted. At 
y 2 p. 10 to E. G.; out and shut. To theatre to hunt 
for ; not found. To Madame D., who sent for G. 
Satan hour; 7 shillings to D.; 21 shillings to G. 
Agreed to Wednesday. Chez /. 2 at 1. Went, staid 1 
hour, but came not. Couche r / 2 p- 2 - Note : Judge 
Hume thinks Mr. Jackson would be a valuable 
acquaintance, and proposes to introduce him. 

24. Rose at 10. Judge Hume called at 11 
with Mr. James Hume or Home, writer to the Sig- 
net. Go to view the register's office : a noble building 
and perfectly adapted to its purposes ; half the original 
plan only is executed. A statue of George III. by 
Mrs. Darner; an act of Parliament of 1300. To 
M'lle Williamson's ; yi hour. Home. Mr. Gordon 
of Kurkuthbright 3 came in ; sat y 2 hour and offered all 
sorts of civility and friendship. Three brothers ; a 
counsellor of the Court for Divorces ; major of militia. 
Spoke much of Mrs. Lenox and M'lle Keene ; of the 
latter with admiration ; that they had told him much 
of Gamp as the greatest and most am. 4 in America. 



1 Hermitage wine, that of the Cotes du Rhone in Southern France. Of this there are three 
kinds : The red with its peculiar purple colour ; the white, which is really yellow in tone, and 
the very unctuous, luscious, sweet liqueur-like vin de faille, somewhat like a tawney port in 
colour, and reminding one somewhat of a sweet old Madeira or port. It is called vin de faille 
because the bunches of grapes were dried in the sun on straw. Now they are dried in glass 
houses until the grapes become almost raisins. But very little of this is made now and it com- 
mands high prices because it takes seven or eight times the quantity of these dried grapes to 
make a cask of wine, and longer time is required for maturing the wine. 

2 Perhaps for chex, elle. At her house. 
j Meaning Kirkcudbright, probably. 

4 Amiable? 



63 



Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

To Madame Gordon's, 8 Castle street, by appoint- 
ment to walk. Found her waiting impatiently. 
Walked to Baron Norton's. Took with us Miss 
Norton, Mrs. N., M'lle Hastie. Walked on to 
Hawke Hill, the residence of Mrs. or Miss Johnston, 
80, sister of Sir William Pulteney. Passed the Loch. 
At Hawke Hill, Miss Laurie, daughter of clergyman. 
jo. vif. sp. 1 Asked into Mrs. J.'s room. Pretty 
place ; view of the Forth ; island and ocean in the 
rear; from the Hill in front, of Edinburgh and its 
beautiful environs. Repast; delic. vin Mad. z Mr. 
Laurie walked with us on return to Baron Norton's. 
Continued on with Madame G. to 8 Castle street. 
Her zeal about lunatics. Put into my hands report of 
House of Commons and a pamphlet by her young 
friend, Andrew Duncan, Jr., M. D. Mrs. Norton's 
passion for the chase ; of the cries of the hare ; dialect ; 
Diana. At 4, chez mot. Found note from Mr. 
Young with the Etym. Dic. J and invitation to family 
dinner on Thursday, which accepted. Judge Hume, 
who is indefatigable to serve me, called while I was 
out and left note that he would call at % p. 12 on 
Thursday to view Hariots 4 Hospital. Note: Madame 
G.'s affecting stories of the treatment of lunatics. Her 
zeal and perseverance in reforming the madhouse in 

Edinburgh ; of Miss , who is leading manager 

of the House of Industry in Edinburgh ; burning at 



I For jolie, vive, sfirituelle. Pretty, vivacious, refined. 

Z For dilicieux vin de Madire. Delicious Madeira wine. 

3 Etymological Dictionary of the Scottish language. 

4 Heriot's Hospital, founded for the education and maintenance of poor boys. 



64 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Alsa; of the benevolent Captain Lowes, 28 George's 
square. 

25. Writing to Bentham till 3. Went to bed, 
but my head had got so awake and so full of B. that 
sleep fled. Poor little dear T., you are rivalled but 
not superseded nor even diminished in my affections, 
but another is associated with our joint existence; 
another who will love you as I do. At 8 I got asleep 
and slept till 11. Whilst at breakfast, Colonel Smith 
came in. Then Judge Hume, who comes always to 
discover how he can serve me and always succeeds. 
At 1 came in Mr. Walker to ask me to breakfast 
to-morrow, seeing that all my dinner hours were pre- 
occupied; assented. Sor. at 3. To Mr. Gordon's of 
Kircudbright; out. To Ferguson's; out. To Col- 
quhoun, the Lord Advocate ; out. To Madame 
Gordon's of Craig, 8 Castle ; out. Home at 4. 
Found a note and large package from Mrs. Gordon, 
of Craig, containing publications and plans about 
lunatic asylums. To Baron Norton's, Abbey Hill, to 
dine. Had, by appointment, ]/ 2 hour with him before 
dinner. The company were Mrs. Dundas, the mother 
of the chef baron ; the chef baron ; Mr. Boyle, the 
Solicitor General; Mr. and Mrs. Jardine; Miss Skeene, 
sister of Mrs. Jardine ; Mr. Stewart ; Mr. William 
Dundas ; Baron Hepburn ; Lady Jane ; Baron Nor- 
ton ux. and M'lle Norton. Miss Hastie, reported to 
be sick abed, did not appear. Baron N. has seven 

children: Grace, 13; , n; a boy, 10; , 

9; George, 7; Helen, 5^; Augusta, 4. Extraordi- 

65 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

nary attachment of Augusta; all love Gamp. After 
dinner taken up stairs by Augusta ; sent for soon by 
Baron Norton. Dinner and wines excellent. Madeira, 
champagne, hermitage, Frontignan, malmsey, claret, 
port, sherry. Baron Hepburn's very warm invitation 
to come and pass days or weeks with him in E. 
Lothian, twenty-two miles from Edinburgh. Came 
home with him at 10. Conversation at table general, 
and current trifles, and wit. A general wish that 
England would go to war with the United States. 
Home at 10. Sor. Madame D. T: E. G. ; y 2 hour; 
10 shillings 6 pence; dom., i shilling; engagement for 
8 to-morrow. Two hours reading Mrs. Gordon's 
pamphlets, &c. 

26. Went to bed last night at 2 ; lay sleepless 
till 5 ; rose at 7. Dressed by candlelight. At 8 sor. 
to E. G. as per engagement. After much difficulty to 
gain admission, G. was sub. vi l ! Home ; breakfasted. 
The knitting woman. At j4 p- 9 walked to Walker's, 
23 Queen street, to breakfast again, as per engagement. 
T: The family, Judge Hume et ux. Sat till 12. 
Amusing and amd. 2 Home to give orders (a most 
furious snow-storm). Sor. immediately in hack to 
Walker's. Took up Judge Hume and went to Jack- 
son's, who with Mr. Gray escorted us to Heriot's 
Hospital; 140 boys at dinner ; keeperess and ten fern. 1 
servants. Three sick, of whom one lame, one feeble 
constitution. Boys under 10 and above 7 are ad- 
mitted. Sent out to trades, &c, at 14 ; pounds 

1 Probably for suiter vi or vim. Under constraint. 

2 Amusing and amused (!) 
5 For femmes. Women. 

66 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

to each on going out. More to those exhibiting 
literary talents. Income X5> 000 > ar >d will in six years 
be £ 1 0,000. Food; clothing. Good faith to prevent 
detection of one who had plundered potatoes ; all cut 
piece from their coats. During Jackson's administra- 
tion, 5^ years, not a death. Thence to Bank. Plan 
by Read, a young Scotchman. Twenty clerks ; about 
twenty offices or branches in the different towns of 
Scotland ; capital, $1,500,000. Home at ]/ 2 p. 3. Sent 
reply to Baron Norton's note to dine on Saturday, 
accepting. Chair to dine at Alexander Young's, 48 
Queen street. T: Mr. Stewart, very handsome, 
intelligent young man, ^5,000 per annum ; residence 
nearly opposite Isle of Man ; near relation of Lord 

; Mr. , an intelligent young man ; been 

some years in East Indies; prisoner at Mauritius; his 
plan for taking Isle of France ; knew mad 1 Hulot. 
Tres gal. z Bathing room. His son, un matelot en 
marine 1 . Hon. M'lle Crofton, Ireland. Mere Baron- 
ess Crofton. Belle. Social. Mr. and Mrs. Y. Miss 

Y., jo. interes. esprit 4 . Music. Miss , whose 

name was not heard. [Conversation] of the education 
and talents of women ; great debate ; of J. B.; of Dug. 

Stewart. Mr. Y. is agent of Lord . Home at 

11. At the instance of M'lle Crofton, took home 
and read review of " Cavallos " and of Hon. Parnell 
on penal laws against Irish Papists. On our return 



1 The writing is not clear. The word may be " mad," as given, or intended for an abbre- 
viation of Madame. 

2 For tris galant. Very courteous, genteel. 
J A sailor in the navy. 

4 For jolie, intiressante, esprit. Pretty, interesting, and endowed with wit, intellect. 



67 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

from Heriot's Hospital to-day we heard the news of 
the battle of Corunna, and of the death of Moore 1 . 

27. To bed at 2. Slept till 5. Rose at 7. 
Sent note to D. W. that I would breakfast with him. 
Waited an hour in vain for return of messenger ; went 
and found breakfast over ; he had written that being 
occupied, he would prefer another hour ; staid 2 hours ; 
much talk of X affairs, modes of access ; proposed 
introduction to Melville and Moira. Home at 12; 
very stupid ; want of sleep and intemperance. Couche 
and slept 2 hours. Dr. Home and J. Hope called 
while asleep. Much refreshed, however. Took coach 
to dine. Dined with Lord Advocate. Sa fern, encore 
{mere de 7 enf.) tres joL z and of most fascinating sweet- 
ness and loveliness. T: Sir A. M. M'Kenzie; Ma- 
dame ; Miss Crofton ; the Rev. Mr. , 

70 and appearing 45. At */£ p. 9 being about to go, 
the Lord Advocate and Madame urged so much that 
I would stay to sup, and Sir A. and others joining, 
that I assented and staid till 12. The Lord Advocate 
spoke properly of J. B.; that he had endeavored but 
in vain to get access to him. Madame C. took a lively 
interest in all that was said of him ; took list of his 
works. Sir A. M'K. loaded me with all sorts of civili- 
ties, urged to visit, &c. Home at 12. Sir A. M'K. 
walked with me. 

28. Couche at 2. Rose at 10, having slept. Sor. 
at 1. To Dr. Home; Madame H. and Captain; sat 



1 Corunna is in northwestern Spain. The battle (between 15,000 British and 20,000 French) 
was fought January 16, 1809. Sir John Moore was killed by a cannon ball and was buried at 
Corunna by his soldiers. 

2 His wife still very pretty, although mother of seven children. 

68 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

y 2 hour. To Lord Justice Clerk's, where left note 
requesting interview and announcing my departure for 
Tuesday morning ; out. To Lord Advocate's ; out. 
To Arbuthnot's ; sat ^ hour. Home. Took coach 
to dine at Baron Norton's at 5. T : Sir Campbell and 
daughters, bizarre 1 ; Colonel or General Trotter and 
sister, the older sister of her I met at Walker's ; Ma- 
dame ; Miss Hastie. Children all gathered 

around me and became familiar. Grace, 13 ; Fletcher, 
12; Caroline, 11; George, 9 ; Helen, 6 ; William 
Augusta Ann^ 4^. W. A. A. would not leave table 
after dinner without me ; finally she permitted to stay 
with me. At 9 joined the ladies. Miss Campbell 
played on the organ, and Miss Norton. The Baron 
and his other male guests came up at 10. Stole off 
and brought back by Caroline. Passed all my time 
with the children ; their frankness and gaiety. Came 
off at 11. Talked of judiciary ; jury trial ; not one 
had read Bentham. Home at 11. Sor. to E. G. ; full 
and noisy 2 ; x / 2 hour; 7 shillings. A little sore throat 
which I hope to sleep off. 

29. Went to bed at 1 in bad order. Was waked 
at 8 ; a most infernal sore throat and too drowsy to rise ; 
lay till Y / 2 p. 11. John M'Donald came in at least 
twenty times. At 1 came in Lord Justice Clerk in 
consequence of my note. Sat ^ hour, when J. Hope 
came in. Lord Justice Clerk zealous in X affairs, but 
does not go to work right. Sor. y 2 p. 1. To Captain 
M'Dowell's, whom I found alone. Sat V 2 hour and 



1 Odd. 

2 Burr or the room >. 



69 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

parted com. fan. 1 Called on M'lle Williamson, who 
was at dinner. At 5 went to dine at J. Gordon's of 

Craig. T: Mr. and Madame Gordon ; Dr. , 

horn. disp. z ; Mr. Gordon of Kirkb't ; Mrs. Hill, born 
in Halifax, and M'lle Hill. Madame H. is one of 
the committee of the House ot Industry ; M'lle much 
interested. After dinner talked very freely of judiciary, 
of jury, of lunatics and paupers. No one knew any- 
thing of J. B. except Madame G., to whom I had 
talked before. Mr. Gordon, son of Sir Alexander, 
walked home with me. Found invitation from the 
Lord Advocate and cards of Sir A. H. M'Kenzie and 
Mr. Vic. Clerk. 

30. Had been intemperate. By way of cure 
drank excessively of cr. tar. punch ; kept going till 5 ; 
very little sleep ; rose at 9. Bad order ; very bad, but 
sore throat gone. Sent John M'D. about stockings ; 
wrote to Mr. Young with his books ; to Lord Advo- 
cate in answer to his invitation ; to David Williamson 
about arrangements for departure. Received a very 
friendly note from Lord Justice Clerk, enclosing letter 
for General A. Hope. At x / 2 p. 10 Judge Hume 
called to notify the appointment made by Mr. Jackson 
to go with me to Read's, the architect, at 12. Mr. 
Gordon of Kirk, called. Received note from Madame 

Gordon of Craig that Captain would be at her 

house at 1 to meet me. Sor. at 12. To Jackson's; 
with him and Hume to Read's, where was greatly 
amused with his plans for improvement of the city. 



1 For comme il faut. As was fitting, i. e., as men should part. 

2 Probably for homme disputeur. A disputatious man. 

70 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

He gave me his plans of lunatic asylum and the 
address, bound. To Mr. Gordon's, where met Cap- 
tain ; sat x / 2 hour. To the Lord Advocate's ; 

all out. To Ferguson's ; all out. To Mr. Young's ; 
sat Y / 2 hour with Madame and M'lle, the two Hun- 
ters (John Hunter consul in Spain), Jane and Mar- 
garet ; bien jol.\ 11 and 12. To Mr. Walker's; 
NT lie la cadette ; sat ]4, hour ; met Home at the door. 
Home at 3. To Baron Norton's, Abbey Hill, one 
mile. T: The family, except two children ; Mr. and 
M'lle H., whom I met on my return ; also Mr. Gor- 
don of Kirk., who walked with me to Holyrood House ; 
saw only the gallery of pictures. Home at yi p. 4. 
Took bowl soup. Sor. at x / 2 p. 5 to E. G., whom saw 
and * * * * a ; 1 hour. Ten shillings 6 pence. P. 5 
handkerchief and gloves. To D. Williamson's. He 
gave me two letters which I wrote last summer to 
Charles ; a third, more material, had not been found. 
Note : He has many of the letters of John and S. 
Swartwout. Talked an hour on X affairs during which 
I twice got asleep, and came off. Home at 9. 
Omitted : Yesterday as I was going out to dine, a 
servant of the Duchess of Gordon gave me a verbal 
message, with compliments, asking me to sup with her 
that evening ! Did not go nor send any answer. 
Called this morning and saw her. Some civil re- 
proaches. Invited to the like this evening. Just 
before I went to Williamson's, her servant called to 
say that, being suddenly much indisposed, she could 



1 For bien jolie. Very pretty. 

2 An undecipherable word. 

3 Probably for presented. 



71 



Private J our n a I of Aaron Burr . 

not see company this evening. Doubtless the decease 
of her nephew, Colonel Maxwell, who died of a wound 
received at Corunna. 

31. Went to bed at 12, being excessively tired 
and sleepy. Nevertheless, could not sleep. Took 
ten dr. of laud. Still no sleep ; took sixteen more, 
and about 4 got dozing and lay till 10. Rose very 
stupid. Arbuthnot called and sat half an hour. Sor. 
at 12 to Manners & Miller's bookstore, to meet 
James Gordon of K., as per appointment, to go to 
court. Gordon had waited y 2 hour and had gone. 
Mr. Miller's politeness. Went with me to court. 
Lord Justice Clerk sends a clerk to provide me a 
proper seat, &c. F. Jeffrey speaking. Stayed one 
hour. " My lud and my luds." In very bad order. 
Home at 2, intending to go and discharge all my 
visits ; but too stupid with the laudanum. At 3 to 
the Duchess of Gordon's. [Conversation] : Duke of 
York and the attack on him. Very angry about the 
report of the death of Colonel Maxwell. Of the 
Duke of York's mistresses. Of Moss ; of the Shaws, 
father and son. To Miller & Manner's store ; bought 
two maps. Returning, M'Kenzie overtook me ; 
invited to his house to-morrow evening. Home at 4. 
Ordered a bowl of soup, but when it came could not 
touch it. Went to bed and slept two hours. Some- 
thing refreshed. Mr. Walker called while I was 
asleep to ask me to go to the concert with his family 
this evening. Instead of soup, took tea. D. William- 
son called and gave me two letters, one for General 



72 



Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

Hope and one for Dr. Braid. Sat an hour. Of Braid ; 
of Moira ; of Cochrane Johnstone ; of Picton ; D. of 
Y. A note and a long letter from Madame Gordon. 
Note from James Gordon of K., which answered. 

February i, 1809. Wrote to J. B. an hour. 
Couche at 1. Lev. 1 at 10. Slept a little and still in 
bad order. Note from Madame G. with plans, &c, 
which I had left at her house ; answered her note. 
Wrote to Lord Advocate for franks, &c. To Meeker ; 
to Koe ; further to J. B. Mr. Gordon of K. came in 
and sat ^ hour. Received answer from Lord Advo- 
cate with the franks and notice that he was ready for 
M'lle H. Note from David Williamson with two 
great letters. Wrote him to remind him of Sir J. 
Sinclair and Lord Moira. Wrote Colonel Smith, ask- 
ing his commands, &c. Sent my letters to the post- 
office, having enclosed to J. B., T.'s letter of Decem- 
ber 5th and Clara's 2 . Received note from Baron 
Norton requesting me to dine with him to-day en.fam. 1 , 
which answered by his servant, negative. Sor. %6 p. 2. 
To Duchess of Gordon's ; sat Y / 2 hour ; of politics ; 
D. of Y. ; revolution ; asked to see her in London. 
To Lord Advocate's ; met and went together to M'lle 
Hamilton's. Y: Miss Hamilton; pas mal 4 ; Mr. 
Edgeworth, brother of Miss E., the author, and two 
ladies. Sat x / 2 hour. Many civilities from the Lord 
Advocate. To A. Young's. Madame and M'lle. 



1 For live in expression^ me live. I get up. Burr often uses this word for I get up, as he 
does sor. for I go out, and couche for I go to bed. 

2 Madame d'Auvergne, better known as Leonora Sansay, author of the " Horrors of St. 
Domingo," etc. 

J For en famille. 
4 Not bad. 

73 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Madame is a native of the island of Guernsey, a 
d y esprit. M'lle ires interessante and plein d'esp. 1 To 
Walker's ; regret of Emily that Gamp failed at the 
concert ; most affectionate adieu. To Mr. R. Dun- 
bar's ; after waiting ten minutes in carriage at the door 
for answer, left card of conge. 2. To Mrs. Erskine's. 
To Hope's. To Vic. Clerk's. Hope chased and 
overtook me to bring me back to dine with him, 
which declined. To Governor Houston's; out. 
To M'lle Williamson's ; out. Home. Ordered beef- 
steak and sor. at Y / 2 p. 5 to Arbuthnot's. Saw Mr. 
and Madame, and her mere and four children. " I 
ken'd ye." He offers to take my bill for X50. 
Home at Y / 2 p. 6. Dined and dressed for the evening 
at M'Kenzie's. Note received from Lord Justice 
Clerk's inviting me to sup there, which answered, 
declining. At ^ before 8 sor. to M'Kenzie's. T: 
Mr. and Madame M'Kenzie; his elder and second 
sons; Madame and M'lle M'K. ; Miss Hope; 
M'K. jol. 1 Lord Webb Seymour came in. A 
del esprit and connaisences 4 . Tea and supper. Con- 
versation general ; wit and anecdote ; of Judge 
Cullen, a mimic ; of banks ; paupers ; of J. B. (ignor- 
ant) ; of juries, codes of laws. Tea and supper ; 
oysters, &c. The two older women were engaged to 
a ball, but Hope sat till 11 and M'lle M'K. till 12. 
Home at y 2 p. 12. Found note from Colonel Smith 



1 Has intelligence. Mademoiselle very interesting and abounding in intellect or wit ( pleine 
d^ esprit). 

2, For conge. Leave-taking. 

3 For jolie. 

4 For a de V esprit et des connaissances. Has intellect (wit) and attainments. 

74 



Private journal of A a r o ?i Burr. 

inclosing letter from Sir J. Sinclair. Drank hot 
whisky toddy to balance the oysters. 

1. Sleepless night. Rose at 10. Judge Hume 
called. Colonel Smith. Wrote to Captain M' Dow- 
ell. Sor. 11. To Arbuthnot's about money; out. 
To Holyrood Palace; see Mary's rooms. To Arbuth- 
not's again ; he took my bill on Graves for £$0. 
Home at y 2 p. 1. Went to take passage in mail. It 
is full ; so kept till to-morrow ; very lucky, for it was 
impossible to clear out reputably. Took passage in 
Union coach for to-morrow, 5 A. M., 7 guineas. 
Tavern bill £10. The burnt carpet. Sor. at 3. Dr. 
Home's. T: Madame and Miss Brown ; Captain 

Duncan and Mrs. . To Jeffrey's ; sat y 2 hour. 

Home at T / 2 p. 4. Wrote long letter to Madame 
Gordon ; to J. B. Sorting papers, 3 hours. Note to 
General A. Hope. At 1 began to pack up. Three 
guineas to servants. In the evening a note to Arbuth- 
not, and his reply. Mr. and Mrs. M'Dowell's note 
enclosing letter for Span, which I did not answer ! 

London, February 7, 1 809. Arrived at 1 1 this 
evening at the Saracen's Head, Snowhill. The usual 
time of arrival is 1 P. M., but the coachman and the 
guard both got a little boozy, and each had a girl. 
Stopped every few minutes to drink. The coachman 
extremely insolent. With great difficulty got a very 
dirty bed, in a room with another, and, after an hour's 
perseverance, got a little fire and a glass of hot 
lemonade. Went below in the public room to smoke 
a pipe. No segars. Two very intelligent young men 

75 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

there. One a foreigner, looking very like Gallatin 1 . 
They both made approaches for acquaintance, which, 
pour des raisons 1 , I received distantly. 

8. Breakfasted in coffee-room. To hotel, Con- 
vent Garden, to see Randolph 3 and Meeker. Both 
gone. Took their address from the barkeeper. To 
the Horse Guards, where saw General A. Hope; bien 
recu. To Queen's Square Place. Y: J. B. and J. H. 
K., and a young deputy secretary ; bien recu. Stayed 
to dinner. Out at 10; raining, took K.'s umbrella, 
having lost my own. Koe overtook me, having run 
all that way in the rain ; sent by Bentham to bring me 
back to sleep, he not suspecting that I was going off. 
Apologized. At Bentham's found Theodosia's letter 
of the 3d of January, and one of September. 

9. Breakfasted at 11 at Saracen's Head. Do- 
mestic demanded my name. To Graves's ; he had 
been a fortnight out of town. Returned home ; paid 
my bill, 10 shillings and 6 pence. Domestic, 4 shil- 
lings and 6 pence. Took my baggage and went to 
call on W. P. M.; out. Left for his perusal the letter 
I had written to Graves. To Horse Guards to deliver 
General Hope another letter, which I had overlooked. 
He being engaged, left the letter. To Q. S. P. 4 at 3. 
Note from General Hope, proposing an interview to- 



1 Albert Gallatin, who was Secretary of the Treasury of the United States from 1801 to 
1813. 

2 For reasons. 

3 D. M. Randolph, who was an associate of Burr's on the latter's first visit to London. 
Writing to Mrs. M. J. Goodwin, and referring to Randolph, Burr said : " If it should happen 
that you should meet, be not discouraged by the unpromising appearance of a tall, meagre, pale, 
white-headed man. There is truth, and honour, and goodness within." 

4 Queen's Square Place, where Bentham resided. 



76 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr 



morrow. W. P. Meeker came in at 7. The bill from 
Edinburgh paid. 

10. Castella came in, and we walked out together. 
It was with regret that I left Bentham, having intended 
to join in his morning walk ; K. not having returned 
from Hempstead, where he went yesterday to dine at 
General Bentham's with Miranda, who had known the 
General in Russia. To D. M. R.'s ; he has aban- 
doned poetry and taken to the manufacture of shoes, 
which I think will turn out something. To Mrs. 
Duval's, who gave me the new address of Lewis. 
Madame Duval knew Miss Emily Devisme, daughter 
of Gerrard; says she is 25, and has 200 pounds per 
annum. To Lewis Duval's, to whom told the story 
of White, bookseller. He advised me to employ an 
attorney 1 , and sent for Humphrey, to whom I gave the 
papers. Resolved to change my residence. Bentham's 
house is too full with this new secretary ; but for a 
more cogent reason, arising out of the difficulty with 
White respecting the books sent to Alston. The 
benevolent heart of J. B. shall never be saddened by 
the spectacle of Gamp's arrest ! So I have said that I 
should dine abroad to-day. At 2 to Horse Guards. 
Interview and free conversation with General Hope. 
He says Lord M. will write to me, inviting an inter- 
view at his first moment of leisure. To Q. S. P. at 3. 



1 Burr was afraid of being arrested for debt. It was an old transaction. In a letter to 
Alston, he wrote : " White, the bookseller, has made a peremptory demand against me of the 
amount of his account against us both. It is impossible that I should enter into a lawsuit on 
this trifling affair, and, trifling as it is, by no means convenient to pay it out of my slender 
resources. The sum is 117 pounds, and he demands four years' interest, but would probably 
take up with the principal. I wrote to E. W. Laight in September, requesting him to send his 
papers, showing how the seizure of the books was made by the government. I have no doubt it 
was the fault of White." 

77 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Remain an hour. Out to look for obscure lodgings. 
Got suited at a huckster's (Dunn), 35 James street. 
Roved about for two hours without any object. At 7 
to D. M. R.'s ; he gave me a letter which he got from 
General Lyman, United States consul general. It is 
from E. Bollman, dated August, and brought by Prime, 
an Englishmnn. Took coffee with D. M. Randolph. 
Mr. Skipworth, late United States consul to Paris, 
came in ; cold and formal. Sat ]/ 2 hour and came 
home, Q. S. P., at Y / 2 p. 8, sans accident. Three 
hours spent with K. in deciphering. Couche at 1. 
Note : Humphrey did not send any letter to D. M. R. 
for me as was directed and promised. 

11. Lev. 9 pa tran 1 . Castella came in at 10. 
Sor. at 1 1 to Duval's, whence wrote a note to Hum- 
phrey asking what he had to communicate. Re- 
ceived reply, requesting an interview. To his house, 
Harper street. He had written to Tal. 2 , who agreed 
to suspend prosecution till Tal. should have seen the 
papers ; but Tal. says it is probable he will do some- 
thing on Monday, being the last return day this term. 
He will see T. to-day. To Vickery's about peruke. 
To Gilbert's about shoes. Mem : On the way to 
Duval's bought a settee, 12 shillings, pour quo?? for the 

chess player, to whom I am in debt. Called on 

to apologize and atone for the failure on Wednesday 
evening ; out. To Q. S. P. at }4 p. 4- Dine seul 
av. J. B. [Conversation] of Mendoza ; Colquhoun ; 
Chancellor Erskine ; superstitions ; thirteen at table. 

1 Probably for pas tranquille. Not calm, not easy in mind. 

2 The attorney for White. 

3 Why? 

78 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Sor. at 7 P. M. to 35 James street to engage the rooms, 
order fires for to-morrow evening ; gave 7 shillings to 
buy coals, &c. On my return to Q. S. P. told J. B. 
what I had been doing and of my resolution to go ; 
said nothing of Tal. After a free, candid, and friendly 
explanation, he consented to my departure, my address 
to be still at Q. S. P. From 9 to 1 with K., decipher- 
ing ; got through both letters. Began letter to D. 
M'K., but determined to wait to learn whether he be 
not in town, and if not, doubting whether I would not 
go to Hastings to see him ; 6$ miles. 

12. Lev. at 10. Sor. at j4 p. n. To D. M. 
R. ; had just gone out to call on me ; got lost an hour. 
To Vickery's, where got peruke. To Duval's ; out 
and all locked up. To W. R. M. ; out ; wrote in his 
room a note requesting to appoint a place and time of 
interview and to enquire about Grandpre' mentioned in 
previous letter as having come out in November with 
letter for me from Min. and E. A. To Mr. Duval's, 
44 Great Russell street, where wrote note to Lewis D. 
desiring him to get M'K.'s address from Mr. England, 
his attorney. To Castella's, Fitzroy square ; saw him 
and his two nieces. He walked with me to Charles 
Smith's, 14 Beaumont Place. Charged Castella to 
inquire for Grandpre. Smith out ; left his brother's 
letter and card. To Cochrane Johnstone's, 13 Alsop's 
buildings, New Road ; out. Returning, took coach 
and drove to Surrey street, Mrs. Hick's. Gamp tired. 
Message from Galley. Marriage of Miss Chase. 
Home at ^ p. 4 in coach ; 4 shillings 6 pence. Din- 



79 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

ner with J. B. and K. At 6 began to pack up for 
removal. To Anna ; 7 shillings. Porter to take my 
things to Charing Cross ; there took coach. To D. 
M. R. ; out. To 2S J ames street. Porter, 3 shil- 
lings ; coach, 3 shillings. Madame , cTou diab. 

vient elle 1 ? Sent by the Devil to scd. 2 Gamp. Set to 
unpacking and stowing away, which with smoking and 
idling and thinking about writing, kept me up till 2. 
How many beautiful letters I should write were it not 
for the mechanical labour of writing, which I hate ! 

13. Couche 2. Lev. 7. A strange figure in the 
drama. Madame P. Breakfast at 9. Till 2 bring- 
ing up Journal for T. K. came in ; apologized for 
the mistake and was going off, not suspecting it to be 
ab. a cause de Peru? Brought me one pound coffee, 
and 3 % pounds tea. A letter from L. Duval saying 
that he had sent to Mr. England for M'K.'s address 
and it was denied. Kept K. waiting while I wrote 
note to England, to Humphrey, and to Duval, the 
two former enclosed in the latter. Cochrane John- 
stone going to Vera Cruz. The Berlin decree with- 
drawn ! Dub. 4 Assorting, filing, burning papers all 
day. Read again J. B.'s " Emancipation." Couche 12. 
Mem. : K. also wrote to General Hope inquiring 
about the sailing of the packet. 

14. Slept one sound nap from 12 to 9 ! What 
has happened to make me such a sluggard ? It must 
be the air of this country. They all sleep. My 

1 For d\u diable vient-clle ? Where in the devil does she come from >. 

2 For seduce. 

J About a cause de Perou, i. e., about a matter of great importance (?). 
4 Probably for dubito, Latin for I doubt ; or else for dubious. 

8O 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

habits are as temperate as you have heretofore known 
and yet I absolutely require seven hours sleep. 
Whence this strange revolution ? Madame Prevost 
is extremely attentive — Un air d' elegance et d'abbate- 
ment 1 . Peutetre 2 8 2 . While I was at breakfast, J. B. 
and K. came in ; a quiet laugh ; brought me letter 
from Meeker proposing an interview and advising 
that he will leave town this evening for eight days. 
Cannot find Grandpre. Note from General Hope 
about packets. Message from Castella that Grandpre 
is here but his address denied at the Alien Office. 
Message from Colonel A. C. J. requesting an inter- 
view at 12 this day at Q. S. P. Sor. at 12. To Q. 
S. P.; waited till y 2 p. 1. A. C. J. came not. To 
D. M. R.'s; out; left there my great coat, being too 
warm. To Green street cabinet-maker for chess-table. 
To L. Duval's, 4 New Square, Lincoln Inn ; there 
received answer from Mr. England giving address of 
M'K. — Binfield, Berks; his father lying dead there. 
Answer from Humphrey ; he had had no further 
communication with T. or W., and asks my " deter- 
mination." Wrote him reminding him of the deter- 
mination already made known to him. To Meeker's, 
14 King street, Holborn ; gone. To D. M. R.'s, 
whom found waiting for me ; sent out for mutton 
and potatoes, and staid till 7. Returning home, 
corsettiere. Bru. che. noi. bo. su. 1 ; 7 shillings. Drink, 
1 shilling 6 pence. Fruit and chestnuts for Madame 



T An air of elegance and dejection. 
2 For peut-etre 28. Perhaps 28. 

5 For corsetiire. Brunette. Cheveux noirs. Bon sujet. Corset-maker. Krunette; black 
hair; good subject. 

8l 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

P., 2 shillings. Carpet for the foot-board of O.'s 
chess-table, 2 shillings. To Q. S. P. at Y / 2 p. 8. Sat 
Y / 2 hour; refused tea. Home at 9. Madame P. not 
yet come in. Mais bientot venoit 1 . Foreseeing that 
we might go the round of sentiment, though I think 
we shall go rapidly through it, thought it necessary to 
coo dow. Ce pung. I corsettiere 1 . An hour with 
Madame P. La 1 lecon car. et souprs 1 . Des progres; 
ca je finira en deux jours 4 . Two hours arranging 
papers, noting down and arranging names. Took tea 
seul at 10. Couche at j4 p. 10, having lost 2j4 hours 
with P. Des progr. rapides s . 

16. Rose at 9, having slept sound just 6yi 
hours. P. rougisse. Proteste. Jamais revenir, &c. 
A u milieu de tou. Ca pleurs. Jo. melange 6 . 

17. Couche 3. Lev. 10. J. H. K. came in 
just after I got up and brought note from Lord M. 
inviting an interview at 1 1 to-morrow morning. Sor. 
1 1 to Gilbert's, shoemaker, Bond street. To cabinet- 
maker's, Green street, Leicester square, about chess- 
table. Bought chess-men and boards, 15 shillings. 

18. Rose y 2 p. 9. Pastro.bi. Hate mhabiller. 
Conge peruke 1 . Sor. ^ before p. 11. To 6 Arlington 
street. Lord M. not up. Desired to call at 12. 



1 But she came soon. 

2 This is a great riddle. Possibly meant for : Thought it necessary to iotow (formerly 
spelled iootoo and various other ways); cefendant la corsetiire. It would then mean : Thought 
it necessary to bow, i. e., say good-by, in the meantime, to the corset-maker. (The word 
iotow, introduced into English from China, was used in England even before Burr's visit there.) 

J For la deuxieme le^on [des] caresses et [des] soufirs. The second lesson consists of car- 
esses and sighs. 

4 Progress. I'll finish that in two days. (Finirai.) 

5 For Des progres rapides. Rapid progress. 

6 Madame P. blushes (rougit.) Vows she'll never come back, &c. In the midst of all that 
[tout cela] tears. Pretty mess ! 

7 Not very well. Hasten to dress myself. (Je me hate de rnhabiller.) Take leave of 
my wig. 

82 



Private journal of Aaron Burr . 

Walked home in the rain. At 12 took coach, 1 shil- 
lings 6 pence ; found him ; received in the most kind 
and frank manner. After sitting ]/ 2 hour, he was called 
down, a gentleman desiring to say one word to him. 
It was to inquire if C. B. 1 were not there, which being 
answered in the affirmative, he apologized and went 
of!! Not known to Lord M. Sat an hour. Of 
his advising the ministry of being taken into the 
administration ; of the war in Spain. To cabinet- 
maker's, Green street. To Mr. Duval's ; out. To 
Mr. Achaud's. M'lle A. began to ask of M'lle 
Duval. Tres hont rec. par z Madame A. and M'lle. 
Stopped to take jelly and cake. Faib. et fat. 1 Voila 
Madame P. 4 To 14 Harper street, Mr. Humphreys; 
he has seen T. and arranged a suspension of hostili- 
ties for eight days. Fatig 5 . Took coach to Horse 
Guards ; General Hope out ; got the daily table of 
packets, &c. The packet Express, with my interest- 
ing letters of October and December, still in port at 
Falmouth. What fatality ! Home at 5. Coach-hire, 
3 shillings. Mem.: Rene. Madame Harris; pri. ad. 6 
Dinner, ham and potatoes. At 7 sor. to Gilbert's, 
shoe-maker. Rene. pet. ; 3 shillings 6 pence. Mai. 1 
To Q. S. P. at 8. Recontra J. B. Son avis*, &c. 
Home y 2 p. 9. Mai tete 9 . Cre. tar. punch, which 



I Meaning himself — Colonel Burr. 

z For tres honnetement re^u par. Very genteelly received by. 

J For faible et fatigue. Weak and tired. 

4 There is Madame P. 

5 For fatigue. Tired. 

6 For Rencontrai Madame Harris; [je la] priai [de me donner son] adresse. Met Madame 
Harris and asked her for her address. 

7 For Rencontrai [une] petite [demoiselle orfemme.] J shillings 6 pence. Mai. Fell in 
with a little woman. 3 shillings 6 pence. Bad ! 

8 Met J. B. His opinion, &c. (rencontrai.) 

9 For mat a la tete. Headache. 



83 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

kept me up till 5. Madame P. sat with me till 3 and 
nursed me with great tenderness. 

19. K. called at 10. I was still abed. Rose at 
x / 2 p. 11. K. called again at 1. Says the orders in 
council are to be repealed. Hard cred 1 . Took a note 
from me to A. G. Milne enquiring about vessels for 
New York and Spain. Pas bien. Faib z . P. sat by 
me on the canape ou je reposoit* the whole day and 
evening. At 7 P. M. made me coffee and causait de 
ses a/. 4 Did nothing all day ; at 10 to Q. S. P. to 
get change of linen. J. B. gone out to dine ; K. gone 
to Hempstead. 

23. Madame P. rose at 6, made my fire and 
called me ; then made my breakfast ; boiled and 
brought up the kettle ; washed and put strings to my 
night-cap ; hemmed my handkerchief. At x / 2 p. 7 
left my quarters with a shirt in post-chaise. To Gil- 
bert's, who had found my shoe, but had done nothing 
for me. To the W. Horse Cellar, Piccadilly. Sat 
waiting in the coach from yi p. 8 till 9. An elderly, 
plain man and a very pretty girl of 1 5, sad, silent, and 

apparently enf antic*. At B , twenty-eight miles 

from London, being the nearest point to Binfield, the 
elderly man and I got out. An elegant equipage 
and two servants in livery were waiting for him. He 
begged me so kindly to take a seat with him that I did 
so. Arrived at his gate, he got out and ordered the 



1 Probably for hardly credible. 

2 Not well, weak. 

3 On the couche {canape) where I lay (repasais). 

4 For causait de ses affaires. Chatted about her affairs. 

5 Evidently a manufactured word from the French word enfant, child. Hence for infantile. 



84 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

coachman to take me to the tavern at which I had said 
I should stop, which I declined. He asked me to his 
house ; declined also ; walked not 300 yards to the 
inn. A better bed than at any inn in Edinburgh. 
Wrote to D. M'K. asking him to call on me at the 
inn. Received answer from Madame De Powe that 
D. M'K. was gone to Bath, and that the family could 
not receive me. So wrote note of thanks to Claude 
Russell, Esq., paid my bill, 5 shillings 3 pence ; 
dom., 1 shilling 9 pence, and walked off. At x /^ 
p. 5, sunset. Missed the road, and walked 4 miles to 
get to Bridewell. Continued on, rather dark and a 
little rain ; arrived at the Sunny Hill Tavern and 
Spring, dit medical 1 , at y^ before 8, having walked 8 
miles. Well received for the second time in England. 
The more surprising as I was afoot, but this is off the 
general road ! Tea, sangree 1 , pipe and tobacco; jollity. 

27. Couche 2. Rose at y 2 p. 7, intending to 
have breakfast with Colonel A. C. J. Thinking I was 
too late for that, took breakfast chez moi and sor. at 10 
to his house. Found him alone, but in 20 minutes 
we were interrupted and he proposed to call on me at 
Q. S. P. at 4, to which I agreed. 

28. Couche 2. Rose 9. Sor. at 11 to see the 
Hon. Madame Bruce by appointment. Called at Q. 
S. P. on the way. K. had forgot to send my note to 
Graves. To Surrey street, where saw Madame, the 
best looking woman of 63 I ever saw ; she avowed 61 ; 



1 Said to be medicinal. 

2 For sangaree. A drink of red wine and water. 



85 



Private journal of Aaron Burr . 

y 2 hour. Took coach at Charing Cross and drove on 
to Walbrooke; Graves not at home. Left the note for 
him. Discharged coachman; 2 shillings 6 pence. To 
Dr. Lettsome's. Owing to stupid directions, walked 
a mile out of the way. But wrote him note about 
Gardiner for Mexico. To 90 Gray's Inn Lane ; paid 
Bellamy 30 shillings 6 pence. Through Convent 
Garden to Q. S. P. K. out. Home at 4. K. called. 
Wrote Bartlett, enclosing Mrs. S.'s letter. Went to 
Q. S. P. at 6 to get it franked, but Mr. H. had not 
come, so the letter will lie over a day. Dined at home 
at 4 ; ham, potatoes, and eggs, cheese and butter ; vin 
et delicacies'. Lounged and smoked an hour and then 
finished my letter to T. Made my coffee at 9. 
Kencont. av. Mr. Dunn qui a ete 3 jou. ici incog. 
Pourquoi z ? A subject of the mysterious regions. 
Madame P. came up at 11 and sat till 1, when 
separated. Directed a letter to Lord Justice Clerk. 
March 1, 1809. Couche at 3. Rose y 2 p- 8. 
Sor. at 12. To Q. S. P. My letter to Bartlett did 
not go till to-day. Saw K. only. To Gilbert, shoe- 
maker ; effect of offer of x / 2 crown. To D. M. R. ; 
out. To corner Swallow and Oxford to enquire for 
stage to Little Gaddesden. To D. M. R., where 
dined ; 2 shillings 6 pence each. Bought razor strop 
which I did not want, 2 shillings 6 pence ; 1 pound 
honey, 2 shillings 6 pence. To Q. S. P. ; saw K. ; 
no letter from Lettsome or Graves! Home at 7. 

1 Wine and delicacies. 

2 For Rencontre avec Mr. Dunn qui a ete trois jours ici incognito. Pourqoui • Rencounter 
with Mr. Dunn, who has been here 3 days incog. Why! 

86 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Madame P. out. Wrote to Lord Justice Clerk. 
Madame P. came in at 12. Mauv. bum., supposing I 
had seen en Rue sans pari. Entete. Pas in hum 1 . 

4. Couche at 2. Rose at 8. Bruille hier au soir 
av. Madame P. 2 Madame had been out and met 
some one who talked of Gamp ! That she should 
have met any one who spoke of Gamp was a little 
surprising and not pleasant. Inde 1 many conjectures, 
under what name. Of R. was impossible ; of B. not 
probable, yet possible ! The first suggestion was that 
he must instantly remove. Went to bed thinking 
much and concluding nothing. Madame would not 
explain. Parted boudeuse 4 . Madame made the fire 
and got breakfast as usual. Regard triste, sombre. Pas 
maligneK A sort of explanation ensued. Madame 
said that one of her acquaintances had met us walking 
the evening of the second, and knowing lui 6 , had fol- 
lowed and on meeting lui on Friday had made the 
remarks by description and not by name. Consoled 
but not satisfied, parted amis 7 . Packed up some, and 
transported to Q. S. P. other of my things. Mem. : 
Wrote last evening to Mr. Gordon of Craig. To Q. 
S. P. y^ before 1. To Gilbert's bootmaker's; boots 
not done ! To corner of Swallow and Oxford streets ; 
stage not arrived. Bought paper of Wedgewood, 4 
shillings ; two pamphlets, 2 shillings ; coach hire 3 



1 A strange mixture of English and bad French. For Mauvaise humeur. Supposing I had 
seen (her) en rue sans parler. Entete. Pas in humeur: In bad humor, supposing I had seen 
her in the street without speaking to her. Obstinate. Not in [good] humor. 

2 Had a fuss last evening with Madame P. (Brouilli.) 

3 Latin. Hence. 

4 Sulky. 

5 Her look sad, melancholy. Not malicious. 

6 Him. 

7 Friends. 



87 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

shillings 6 pence. Set out at ^ p. i. A decent 
young man and the French paper-maker. The jeu. 
bom. 1 complimented me on my speaking English so 
well that he did not know I was a foreigner till he 
heard me speak French ! Arrived at Little Gaddes- 
den at 7. Bartlett's servant waiting to receive me. 
Engaged bed at tavern and went up to B.'s. T: The 
family and M'lle Baillie. Grand, blanche, chev. noi. 
bel. tranq 1 . Bien rec. 1 After tea called on Major 
Gamble, who offered me a room, but Madame Bart- 
lett had provided a room, fire, &c; would take no 
refusal. So went for my trunk and took my quarters 
at B.'s. (Mem.: Passing through Nettleden this 
evening, saw McCarthy and family.) Couche 12. 
Little Gaddesden, March 5, 1809. Lev. at 8. 
Breakfast at 10. Sor. at 11 to Lord Bridgwater's; 
Madame dressing ; Lord B. engaged. To Major 
Gamble's. Dinner at 5. Major G.; M'Carthy ; 
M'lle Bingham, daughter of Rev. Dr. Bingham, has 
three brothers, one major in army, another lieutenant 
in navy, and the third studying theology. M. a bon. 
taille, bon. phys., gai., fran., ma. quelq. malad au Jig. 4 
The Major B. and the youngest brother came in at 
10, having dined with the second brother. Music. 
Span touche qu.lq. airs ecossais sur la harpe superieure- 
ment s . Lord Crew of Cheshire; created baron under 



1 For jeune hommc. Young man. 

2 For grande, blanche, cheveux noirs, belle, tranquille. Tall, white, black hair, good-look- 
ing, calm. 

3 For bien ret^u. 

4 For M'lle a bonne taille, bon physique; gai,franche, mais quelque malade a la figure. M'lle 
has a good 6gure, good physique; is gay and frank, but rather sickly in the face. 

5 Span plays a few (quelques) Scotch airs on the harp in a superior manner. 

88 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

the Fox administration, has an only child, Will Crew. 
Dit aimab. Am. de Spa. 1 

6. Couche at i. Lev. at y 2 p. 9. Family at 
breakfast before I got down. Walked with Mr. 
Bartlett through the park to Nettleden. Met M'Car- 
thy, who engaged to dine with us. Wrote to W. Graves 
to hunt for Bartlett's letter and forward all letters to 
me at this place. Dinner at y 2 p. 5- The family 
and M'Carthy. Mus. et dans, le soir z . Story of 
Princess Amelia and an Irish gent., her partner at 
cards. " Five love." " So we are, my dear." La belle 
sauvage l \ Ludgate Hill ; a savage and a church bell. 
While walking in the park, Bridgwater, at a distance 
on a horse, saw and galloped up to us. 

7. Couche at 2. Lev. at 9. Promen. av. 4 Span, 
Bart, and Baillie. J. B.'s amusing letter. Dined at 
Nettleden with M'Carthy. Walked there with Bart- 
lett. Met Bridgwater, who talked of a dinner. In 
the evening came Span, Madame Bridgwater and 
Baillie. Music, dancing, &c. Note : In letter of J. 
B. came one from Hosack (supposed William E.), 
saying that Mr. Edwards (you [know] what Edwards) 
had written to me and wished to see me. 

8. Couche at 1. Lev. at 9. Walk in the Park 
with the whole family to see the building. Met 

, who is on a visit to Mr. Heaton. (Note : 

Mr. H. is uncle of Whitbread and of his sister, Mrs. 
Gordon dit d' esprit*. ) Walked two hours. Return- 

I For Dit aimable. Ami de Span. Said to be amiable; a friend of Span, 

z For [La] musique et [la] danse le soir. Music and dancing in the evening. 

3 The fair barbarian. 

4 Promenade avec, etc. Took a walk with, etc. 

5 Said to be intellectual. 

89 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

ing, Betty Bustle, 5. Dinner en /am. Music, &c. 

Wrote J. B. that I would be in town on Friday ; 

a line to K. desiring him to tell Madame P. 

Wrote Graves also to stop my letters. 

9. Couche 1. Lev. at 9. Dinner en fam. au 

soir 1 as usual. In the morning walked seul to Net- 

tleden to take leave of M'Carthy. Two families. 

Called on Major Gamble. Betty Bustle — charmante 

en/. 2 

London, March 19, 1809. Arrived in Madame 

A.'s chariot with M'lle E. M. at }4 p. 4- Very ill 
with a headache. I could not sit up in the carriage. 
Kind solicitude des dames 1 . Got to my den at 5. 
Madame P. and Mr. Hosack abroad ; no fire ; lay on 
sofa till 8. From anxiety about some letters expected, 
made great effort and went to Q. S. P. T: A letter 
from D. M'K., barely civil and a flat refusal; note 
from Mr. Forbes ; ditto from Guillemard, containing 
a most curious sort of apology, q. v. 4 Returned chez 
moi, and again took to sofa. Drank cr. tar. punch. 
No effect. Mr. H. came in at 10, and amused me 
with the news of the day and his little incidents. 
Says Captain S. of the Herkimer is a great friend of 

Gamp and offers his service. Also Captain , 

of the Jupiter, who lately sailed. Madame P. came 
in at y 2 p. 10 ; did not see ; at 12, went to her cham- 
ber ; in violent hysterics. Would not see Gamp. 
Went to bed at 12. Slept, or rather dozed till x /% p. 

1 With the family in the evening. 

2 Charmante enfant. Charming child. 
j Of the ladies. 

4 For Latin quad vide. Which see. Burr kept letters received and copies of those sent. 

90 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

9. No better. Drank cr. tar. punch ; no effect ; 
could not borrow or hire a machine a lave? in all the 
town. At 1 P. M., however, was relieved and took 
a slight breakfast, the first morsel since Friday dinner. 
Dressed and went to Q. S. P. to meet Captain Skin- 
ner ; waited till y z p. 4 ; came not. Wrote note to 
M'lle C. M. Home at 5. H. came in ; he had not 
found Captain Skinner; made another appointment 
to meet him at D. M. R.'s rooms at 11 to-morrow. 
Took a very little boiled rice for dinner; coffee with 
Madame P. Read over my letters of November and 
December to T. and by examining the sailing of the 
packets am in hopes that she got my duplicate by the 
Princess Amelia, which is said to have sailed Decem- 
ber 8th and arrived January 27th ; quite renovated by 
this discovery. 

25. Couche 2. Rose 9. Sent H. to Somerset 
House to hunt for letters by the Princess Amelia, of 
whose arrival heard last night. Sor. at 1 1 to Q. S. P. 
No letters yet come. Note from D. M. R. At y 2 
p. 1 1 Hosack returned sans 2- letters. Went with him 
in hack to Somerset House, where Captain Skinner ; 
not ready ; agreed to wait till 2. To William Graves's, 
whence sent express to Q. S. P. for my letters. He 
returned just as we were seated in the post-chaise, with 
a letter from T. Paid hack, 5 shillings 6 pence ; 
express, 3 shillings 6 pence ; 9 shillings. At ^ p. 2 
drove off with Captain Skinner and Mr. Brigham, a 
handsome young Englishman who is going out to the 



1 For machine a lavement. Enema-syringe. 

2 Without. 



9 1 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

United States. Arrived at Gravesend j4 P- 6. At 
White Hart. Mr. Lane of Boston, a young man 
educated at Montreal, and who has been in East 
Indies on miscellaneous affairs, joined our mess. He 
is going in the Herkimer. Dinner and tea. Captain 
Steel of New York, now a merchant, and Captain 
Thomas, who lately sailed in his employ and was 
seized and condemned at Copenhagen. Steel had a 
copy of the United States non-intercourse and non- 
embargo bill. Called at Steel's quarters in the evening 
and there saw W. P. Meeker and Mr. Boggs of New 
Jersey, brother of the lawyer. Mr. Mullett of Lon- 
don, merchant, arrived about 11, having come on 
business to Captain Skinner. Wrote to T. and 
A. B. A. 

30. Couche 1. Lev. 6. Sor. at x / 2 p. 8. To 
toyman, 209 Piccadilly, about chess-men. To Gil- 
bert, shoemaker ; boots not done ; promised every 
day for five weeks. To D. M. R.'s, where left note 
and also one for Meeker. To J. L. Mallett's, to get 
him to speak to Sir F. Romilly about alien or not. 
To Faleur's. Returned to D. M. R.'s at ^ p. 1 1 to 
meet Hosack by appointment. He came not, but 
W. P. M. came ; y 2 hour about finances. He sais 1 
there is advertised at the Exchange a vessel to take 
passengers for Holland, and the Atlantis will sail for 
New York on Monday. While at D. M. R.'s, Mr. 
Crew, Quaker, American merchant, came ; doubtless 
he is acquainted with Sansom. Left D. M. R.'s at 1. 
Stopped at a small shop of old books and bought 4 

1 So in the MS. 

92 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

shillings 6 pence ; a comb, 6 shillings ; two oranges, 
6 pence. To Wedgewood's, to give order about 
October tablet and paper of a size to suit the tablet. 
To Bradbury's; paid for nose specs., io shillings 6 
pence. Over to Tottenham Court road, intending to 
see Madame O., but changed my mind. Roving 
back without noticing what course, found myself 
again at D. M. R.'s, so stepped in to order a joint 
dinner ; mutton chops and potatoes. 

4. 2S J ame s street. The evening passed with 
Madame P., who assured me that she has ascertained 
that Mr. Dunn's negotiation had no reference to me. 
Couche at 1. Lev. at 8. Having a confused presenti- 
ment that something was wrong, packed up my papers 
and clothes with intent to go out and seek other lodg- 
ings. At 1 o'clock came in, without knocking, four 
coarse-looking men, who said they had a state warrant 
for seizing me and my papers ; but refused to show the 
warrant. I was peremptory, and the warrant was pro- 
duced, signed Liverpool 1 ; but I was not permitted to 
read the whole. They took possession of my trunks, 
searched every part of the room for papers, threw all 
the loose articles into a sack, called a coach, and away 
we went to the Alien Office. Before going I wrote a 
note to Reeves, q. v., and on our arrival sent it in. 
Waited one hour in the coach, very cold, but I refused 
to go in. Wrote in pencil to Reeves another note. 
He came out. We had a little conversation. He 
could not then explain, but said I must have patience. 

I Lord Liverpool, British minister. Burr was under grave suspicion, and the ministry were 
determined that he should leave the country. 

93 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

After half an hour more orders came that I must go 
with one of the messengers (Hughes) to his house. 
On this order I first went into the office to see Brooks, 
the under secretary, whom I knew. You may recol- 
lect the transaction in July, which must have fixed me 
in his memory. He did not know me except that I 
was Mr. K. None of them knew me, though every 
devil of them knew me as well as I know you. Seeing 
the measure was resolved on, and having inquired of 
the sort of restraint to which I was doomed, I wrote a 
note to Koe, which Brooks took to show to Lord 
Liverpool for his approbation to forward it. Arrived 
at my prison, 3 1 Stafford Place, at 4. The wife, a 
very pretty young Welsh girl with a young child. 
Both very civil. Here we are, husband, wife and 
child. After dinner looked out for amusement. His 
books were all German except " The Secret," a play, 
and Tacitus's " Life of Agricola," translated by Aiken, 
both of which I read ; but happening to discover that 
Hughes played chess, we took to that, and, having 
played till the poor fellow is almost crazed, I wrote 
this, and am now going to bed in a small room on the 
same floor, where is a neat, comfortable bed. 

5. Slept very sound till 8, and was then wak- 
ened by Hughes, as I had ordered. Breakfast at 9. 
The only thing that disturbed me was some apprehen- 
sion about my papers. They have got everything. 
No plots or treasons, to be sure, but, what is worse, 
all my ridiculous Journal, and all my letters and copies. 
Wrote Reeves, q. v. Hughes sent the letter. No 



94 



Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

person is permitted to see me. There being no other 
books in any language intelligible to me, went to chess, 
our only resource. Played till 5, dinner-time. A 
very good dinner, and then Hughes, his wife, and I 
make a party of whist. I took the dead hand, the 
child fortunately asleep. This child annoys us a great 
deal, having the hooping 1 cough. At x / 2 p. 11 
Hughes and I engaged in another game of chess, 
which lasted till 1. I give him a castle to make us 
equal. The following are the notes referred to in my 
Journal of yesterday : 

My person, under the name of Kirby, papers, and effects are 
seized by warrant from Lord Liverpool. I wait in a coach at the 
door. Explain who Mr. K. is, and step to the door to save me the 
vexation of going in. A. BURR. 

3 P. M. I sent in a note to you ; has it been received ? I 
am still waiting in the carriage at your door. A. BURR. 

6. Cards last evening till 12. Chess till 1. 
Couche x / 2 p. 1. Rose x / % p. 8. Reeves, q. v. Just 
as the letter was going a message came requiring our 
attendance at the Alien Office at 10; so we did not 
send the letter. Went at the hour in a hack. T.- 
Brooks and Beckett; both very civil. Apology and 
message from Lord Liverpool. Discharged, and 
papers and effects restored. The papers had not been 
opened. Beckett and Brooks went with a message 
from me to Lord Liverpool. In the interim came 
in Reeves. His advice about alienism. Brooks 
returned. j£$o • Heligoland ! He ordered Hughes 
to take my baggage where I might direct, which was 

I So in the MS. 

95 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

to Q. S. P. At 3 called at 3 5 James street. Madame 
P. out. To 16 Palace street; gloomy faces. W. A. 
Hosack, his papers and effects seized on Tuesday 
night. Zeal and firmness of Madame P. Fearing 
that Gamp's interference might do harm, wrote to 
Captain Newton, q. v. To Q. S. P., where dined. 
Received a letter from Captain Edwards, advising that 
he would be here on Friday noon. Note from A. O., 
postponing the proposed interview till Saturday. 
Wrote Graves. Note to Mr. Achaud that I would 
call at 9 to see him and take leave. Received note 
and book from William Godwin. At 8 walked to 
William Godwin's. T: The family and Madame 
Cooper, mother of the actor. At 9 to Achaud's. 
Morose. Saw him and Madame. At 10, 35 James 
street; Madame P. de ret. Bien aim.' The story of 
the last two days and her dreams. 

7. Couche 1. Rose 9. To J. Reeves's of 
whom learned the place of W. A. Hosack's confine- 
ment. Went there, but could not get admittance (10 
Charles street). To Alien Office to ask of Brooks 
permission to see him. Refused. Wrote him a note, 
which Brooks promised to send. Passed the door 
several times, and at length Hosack raised the window, 
and I spoke to him. To Q. S. P., where dressed. 
To Reeves at 2, by appointment, to meet Brooks, who 
came. Confab one hour. Departure postponed till 
this day week. Appointed another meeting at 1 P. 
M., Lundi 1 . To Grace Church street to take passage 

1 Madame P. back (de retour). Very amiable. 

2 Monday. 

96 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

to Camberville. Coach being full took seat on the 
top; 8 shillings. Arrived at Camberville at 5. Dr. 
Lettsome and family in town, where the dinner is to 
which I am invited. Set out to walk back, but over- 
taken by stage and got in ; 1 shilling 3 pence. 
Arrived at Dr. Lettsome's at 6. They had but that 
moment sat down to dinner. Colonel Elliott ; Smith, 
avoc.\ solicitor to Board of Ordnance ; Norris, sur- 
geon ; Cooke, physician ; Temple, physician. Very 
gay and social. Dinner and wines excellent. Norris 
engages me to dine on Monday. To William God- 
win's at y 2 p. 9. At 35 James street, [Burr's residence] 
y 2 p. 11. T: Madame P.; bruill. 1 "There is 
another source of danger." " I know it." Sed faisait. 
1 h. Bruit. J'obstinoit 1 . \_Pas couche. Bkt. at 6. 
Sor. 7-] 4 (Mem.: Get from Lettsome letter in favor 
W. A. Hosack.) 

The following is a copy of the memorandum left 
with Reeves to be shown to Lord Liverpool : 

Whether I may take one or two companions. There are now 
here a number of young Americans who would be glad to accom- 
pany me. 

An assurance that there will be no restraint on my movements 
from Heligoland. I would willingly stay there till it might be 
proper to go to the United States, if this government would give me 
proper patronage and introduction. 

Something to show that I have not imposed on the government 
by assuming the name of G. H. Edwards. 

Having in my late letters engaged to my friends in America to 
wait here till June, I ought to have something to testify why I now 
leave the country. 

1 For avocat. Advocate. 

2 For brouille, quarrel, or brouille, at variance with. 

3 For Sed [_/e le\ faisais. [cela dura\ deux heures \_Du\ bruit, y [c m~\ 'obstinais. But I 
did it. It took two hours. Racket. I insisted. 

4 That which is put in brackets in the text was written and crossed out by Burr. It reads : 
Didn't go to bed. Breakfast at 6. Go out at 7. 

97 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

8. Pas couche*. Breakfast at y 2 p. 5. Sor. at 7. 
To Q. S. P. To Reeves's at 8 to aid Hosack ; 
Reeves not up. To Gilbert's, shoemaker. To 209 
Piccadilly; small chessmen and table, 13 shillings 6 
pence. To Reeves's % p. 9 ; not up. Waited till 
he got up and gave him Dr. L.'s letter, first taking a 
copy. Left with J. R. also a mem. q. v., about my own 
concerns. He promised to attend to both. Walked 
past W. A. H..'s prison for j4 hour but could not get 
sight of him ; called and left message with his keeper. 
To D. M. R. Slept 2 hours on his sofa. To Wedge- 
wood's ; paid 25 shillings for sundries. To Flax- 
man's. The Italian wife ! To Achaud's to inform 
them of the postponement of my journey. (Mem.: 
At 3 got mutton chop and potatoes at D. M. R.'s.) 
Mem. : On leaving 3$ James street bid dom. to get 
something for my dinner at 6, and to buy coal, &c. 
At 6 at Madame Onslow's. T: Tea and two games 
chess, &c. Par. a io 2 . At 1 1 chez D. M. R.; alone. 
Couche on his sofa. 

9. Couche 2X\. Lev.2i\.%. After breakfast went 
to O. S. P. 

10. Dined with Norris, surgeon Old Jewry. 
The guests were all athlete and the same as at 
Lettsome's on Friday, with the addition of Dr. Vaux 
and Dr. Babington ; a very social day. Dr. Bab. and 
Dr. Temple particularly civil to me. At 9 went up 
to take tea with the ladies, but the stile 4 seemed to be 



1 For Je ne me wis pas couche. 1 did not retire. 

2 For Partis a io. I departed at io. 
j Latin. Athletes. 

4 So in the MS. 



9 8 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

for each sex to keep separate. Two of the ladies had 
intelligent and social faces, but I was obliged to con- 
form. Staid till 10. Told Norris of my ostracism. 
Returning, stopped at Godwin's. 

13. Still at D. M. R.'s. Lay down at 2. Slept 
not a wink. At Y / 2 p. 5 got up and dressed ; no fire 
till 7. 

14. Couche at 12. Lev. at T / 2 p. 6. Breakfast 
at 8. At 9 came in a note from Reeves (which had 
been sent last evening to Q. S. P.) requesting my 
attendance at his home at 10 to meet Brooks and settle 
the treaty 1 . To Mallett's at 9 in consequence of his 
message of last evening. He was not up, but came 
down presently. His zeal and interest ; he had been 
both to Reeves and Beckett to remonstrate, &c. Took 
coach to D. M. R. to meet Hosack, but he had not 
come. T: Brooks; offers jQioo, which refused. 
" Lord Liverpool expects that you will leave town this 
day and the kingdom to-morrow." Refused to go till 
arrival of the Pacific. Sent message to Lord Liver- 
pool. Further meeting agreed on at 3 this day. 

24. Couche at 12. Rose at 6. William Graves, 
who effected settlement with White. William P. M.; 
Achaud ; Dumont ; Lieutenant-Colonel Mosheim. 
Went to Godwin's. To Baron Bunkman, the Swedish 
minister, where dined. Y : Captain Nordenskold of 

the Swedish navy ; Mr. and le secretaire 1 . Off 

at ]/ 2 p. 8. At 9 to W. Godwin's. Returned at 10. 
D. M. Randolph. (Mem.: Hosack all day sick abed.) 



1 His agreement with the British government whereby he was to leave the country. 

2 The secretary. (Secretaire.) 

99 



Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

At 1 1 went in earnest to work writing letters ; wrote 
all night. 

25. At 6 waked Hosack and set him to work. 
To Achaud's both Monday and Tuesday about change 
of money. Interview with Beckett on Monday. Tues- 
day evening to Reeves for passports. To Q. S. P. at 9. 
There found the passport from Reeves. One hour with 
J. B. Home. T. T. E. and Hosack assisting in pack- 
ing. Everything to do at the last moment. Left my 
quarters at Y / 2 p. 1 to take stage at Grace Church street. 
Stopped at W. G.'s to get the Coestus 1 , which was beau- 
tifully executed. Family up to conge; affectionate conge 
de tous 1 . Arrive at stage-house just in time. Hosack 
with me. He returns, not being ready. Six inside. 
Arrive at Harwich at 1 P. M. ; seventy-two miles. At 4 
had passed through the forms at the Alien Office and 
custom-house. Wrote Hosack, Bunkman, Lettsome, 
and Eliza P. On board at 8, and made sail immediately. 
His Britannic Majesty's packet, the Diana, Captain 

, a sloop of sixty tons. Fourteen passengers, 

of whom two dames and one little girl. Mrs. Barnes 
and Mrs. Daily, going to join their husbands in 
Sweden. Great confusion settling berths, &c. Fair 
wind, yet at 10 cast anchor! At 11 turned in, being 
the first moment I had lain down since rising at 6 
yesterday morning. 

27. On board the Diana in Harwich Bay. 
Under weigh at 8. The wind fair, but light. Dull 
sailor. 



1 The Journal contains several references to the Coestus. The reference is obscure and 
uncertain. 

2 An affectionate farewell from all. 

IOO 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

28. Wind N. E. and rose to a gale. Beating 
all Friday and Saturday. On Friday no one at dinner 
but captain, mate, and myself. Friday evening (28th) 
I was taken seasick. Kept bed all Saturday and Sun- 
day, eating nothing. 

30. Wind N., light and veering. Heavy rolling 
sea. Caught two fine codfish. At 4 P. M., wind 
came round to S. W. Ran all night before the wind, 
about 6 knots. 

May 1, 1809. Rose at 4. Well and hungry. 
Shaved, changed, &c, and got breakfast at 6. At noon 
supposed we had made 250 miles from Harwich; 
about half our passage. Wind fair all day ; average 
about five knots. At night, though clear and a steady 
light breeze from S. W. took in all sail except main- 
sail, a V Angloise 1 . 

2. Wind all night good, and still on. Two 
sprightly, sensible women on board, Mrs. Daily and 
Mrs. Barnes, going to join their husbands, who are in 
Sweden. Mrs. B. has a very fine little girl about 4 
years. I took possession of the long boat. Made a 
sort of lounging place, where, with an umbrella, I 
read much at my ease ; taking no notice of any one, 
not even les dames. My territories were invaded yes- 
terday by Madame D. Reads remarkably well, and 
is indefatigable. Read to me all M'lle Wollstone- 
craft's " Tour through Sweden," and the greater part 
of Sheridan's "Revolution of 1772." Madame B. 
has been some years in Russia. Shipwrecked on the 

I For a Vanglaise. After the English fashion. 

IOI 



Private "Journal of A ar o"n Burr. 

Russian coast lately on her way to England. Passed 
through a variety of adventures. Played much at 
chess with Captain Nordenskold, of the Swedish navy, 
who is rather my superior at chess. Wind still good. 
At 5 we saw the church and lighthouse of Gotten- 
burg 1 , on the shore. Entered the harbour at 12. 
Anchored at the lower town. Sent up our passports 
by the captain. At 2 came on board the two hus- 
bands of the ladies. Both prepossessing appearance 
and manners. Permission came by a custom-house 
officer to land ; our baggage to be taken to the cus- 
tom-house. Went in custom-house boat with several 
of the passengers, being nearly two miles to the city. 
Enter the canal of the main street. Our baggage all 
passed without any troublesome search. Trunks 
merely opened for form. My sack, the article about 
which I was most apprehensive of trouble, on account 
of the books it contained, passed without opening. 
But my large trunk, containing all my clothes, is 
missing. I sent by the captain M'Donnaugh's letter 
to Malm et fih z , with a note requesting them to pro- 
vide me a lodging. While at the custom-house, a 
brother-in-law of Malm came from him to show me 
my lodgings. Smith, the British consul, hearing that 
I had a letter for him from Colonel Mosheim, came 
also to tender his services. Mr. Oppenheim, of 
Memel, merchant, fellow passenger, very civil. 
Offered me a room at his quarters, which, fool-like, I 
did not accept. Alas ! my trunk, my trunk ! My 

1 For Gothenburg. In Swedish, Goteborg, Goth-city. 

2 And son. 

I02 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

lodgings very commodious. Three large rooms well 
furnished, but not a creature in the house speaks one 
word of any language of which I have the slightest 
knowledge. Made my landlord understand that I 
wished to go to the theatre. He went with me. 
Paid for two seats in the pit, the boxes being all full. 
All pantomime to me. Much amused with two 
young girls in boys' clothes, tight pantaloons and 
short waistcoats, one of whom played admirably. 
The ballet and pantomime amusing enough by force 
of novelty. Two good dancers. One of each sex. 
Malm's young man, seeing me in the pit, got me a 
place in the box. Out at 10. Got home, but could 
not make my host understand that I wanted a dish of 
tea. After labouring in vain for a quarter of an hour, 
was obliged to take him out to the house of a French- 
man, who spoke Swedish, and who explained for us. 
Tea was got very cheerfully. A long pipe and 
tobacco. My bed had a single light coverlet, not 
heavier than a sheet. No other covering. But, being 
quilted down, found it very warm. Mem. : While at 
the custom-house, Captain Nordenskold brought and 
introduced to me his brother, a lieutenant of artillery, 
and desired him to devote himself to me. The Lieu- 
tenant speaks a few words of French, but no English. 
4. The tea kept me awake till 4, and I had 
ordered the host to wake me at 7, which he did most 
punctually, and I got up. Dressed as well as could 
be without my trunk, and breakfasted. Not in good 
order. Lieutenant N. came in to tender himself. 



103 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

We walked to Malm's ; to Consul Smith's ; to book- 
seller's ; to the custom-house. No news from the 
trunk. At i the Lieutenant took me to a coffee- 
house to dine. A public table. A bill of fare pro- 
duced, and each guest orders what he likes, which is 
brought him on a plate, with bread and napkin. We 
drank porter. Paid and Lieutenant remercied 1 . Met 
here the captain and mate of the Diana. Both swear 
the trunk is not on board ! The mate agreed to meet 
me at 7 at Todd's, at the landing. Walked there 
with the Lieutenant, one and a half miles. The mate 
not there. Took punch and pipe, and walked on a 
mile and a half further. Met the captain on return. 
Still insists that the trunk was put into the custom- 
house boat. The steward says the same. Engaged 
Smith and Malm to aid in search. Home at 9. Tea. 
Couche 10. 

5. Yesterday the Lieutenant took my passport 

to show to the Commandant, Col. , and to the 

police. It was returned, the production being 
endorsed by both. At the instance of the Lieutenant, 
also, I went yesterday with him to pay my respects to 
the Commandant. A very awkward visit. He did 
not ask me to sit down. A stout, square man of $$ y 
speaking tolerable French. As the packet will sail 
to-morrow for Harwich, and the mail closes this even- 
ing at 5, wrote a postscript to my letters to T. B. A. 
and a letter to W. Graves about my trunk, enclosing 
to him the two letters for T. B. A. and a letter to 



I A French verb, remereier, to thank, anglicized by Burr. Thanked. 

IO4 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Bellington, the agent of aliens at Harwich — a civil- 
looking animal — also about the trunk. Not only all 
my clothes, but my four letter-books, gone, gone ! 
Went to Smith and Malm to urge them to search ; 
but it is probable that my trunk never left Harwich. 
At 5 went to Smith's to give my letters, and lo, his 
young Swede had found my trunk on board the 
Diana ! Huzza ! Went to the same coffee-house to 
dine. Salmon, potatoes, wine and water, cheese and 
butter, y 2 rix dollar 1 . Went with my Lieutenant to 
hunt a carriage (a sort of cabriole), of which, it is said, 
one must be bought. To bookseller's ; bought a 
map, i rix dollars. Mr. Hedboom and the Russian 
mineralogist called, and proposed to journey to 
Stockholm. Hedboom has a carriage which will hold 
three. As he is a Swede, and speaks tolerable 
English, this is a most acceptable overture. Neither 
Malm nor Smith has called on me, or offered any 
hospitality ! ! 

6. At Gotheborg yet, which we write Gothen- 
burg. Breakfast at 8. Sor. to Malm's, where learn 
that an English packet from Harwich arrived last 
evening. Walked to the landing, i miles, with Hed- 
boom. On board the packet found Hosack. Took 
my trunk from on board the Diana, and came up in 
a boat, rowed by two boys, with Hosack. Paid % 
rix dollar. My trunk passed and taken home. Noth- 

i From Swedish riksdaler or Danish rigsdahr, imperial dollar — a silver coin varying in value 
in different European countries from about 56 cents to a dollar or more. There was a consider- 
able difference between a rix dollar banco and a rix dollar riisgald, or, as Burr spells it, rixelt 
or rexelt, the former being undepreciated currency and worth a half more than the latter. 
According to a statement of Burr to be found further on, a " rix dollar rixelt " was worth " nom- 
inally 3 shillings sterling, but in fact only 2 shillings and 6 pence." 

I05 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

ing demanded at the custom-house. I was permitted 
to give a few copper pieces to the under officers. The 
principal expressed great indignation at learning that I 
had, on the former occasion, paid a guinea to a person 
whom I supposed to be the custom-house officer, but 
who, it is found, is a broker. On my return home, 
sent for that broker and got back my guinea, paying 
him 1 rix dollars for his trouble, viz., coming on 
board the packet, getting a boat for us, and attending 
us to the custom-house. Showed Hosack to the 
quarters of Hedboom, where he got a room, and is to 
go with us to-morrow. We are to set off at 7 to- 
morrow morning. 

11. Stockholm at 10. Were detained at the 
gate about an hour by the custom-house officers, but 
they were not unreasonable or troublesome. The 
trunks not unpacked. All the taverns and hotels full. 
Through the good offices of our good-natured fellow- 
traveler, Mr. Hedboom, we got beds at the house of 
an obscure mechanic in an alley near the Exchange. 
The approach to Stockholm was nothing striking ; 
nothing to indicate an approach to the capital. No 
view of the town, but it was dusk. 

12. Rose at 6. At 10 to Professor Gahn's, who 
was out. Saw his wife, who speaks French. Left 
with her the letter from the consul, H. Gahn. Re- 
turning, called on the Count or Baron Munck, Gover- 
nor of the Palace, and having apartments therein. 
Was in his court dress, with the Spanish cloak. A 
handsome man, and has the air of a man of the 

106 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

world. Left the letter of Colonel Mosheim. At i 
called on Baron Armfelt with the letter of Baron 
Bunkman. The Baron a good, firm, soldierly appear- 
ance ; might pass for 50, but must be older. Took 
dinner at an ordinary. Fish, potatoes, pudding, bread, 
butter, cheese, and brandy and wine, 3 shillings ster- 
ling. In the evening Hedboom came in, and asked 
us to dine to-morrow. Professor Gahn called on me 
in the forenoon, and engaged me to dine on Sunday. 
The hour, in both cases, y 2 p. 2. 

13. Couche at 1. Rose at 6. To a bookseller's ; 

bought map of Stockholm. At 1 1 called on 

with the letter of Achaud. Mr. C, a good, respectable- 
looking merchant. Appeared much indisposed. His 
head bound up. On Mr. Wennerquiest, with the 
letter of Colonel Mosheim. A house very hand- 
somely furnished. Many fine paintings. Is a wealthy 
broker. Proposed to walk with me to several places. 

At 12 we went to the , where is the Society of 

Nobles. He inscribed my name, which gives me the 
freedom of the house. Very magnificent apartments. 
A hotel ; a public table, where, at a moderate price, 
the members, or one introduced, may dine ; see all 
the newspapers, &c. Thence to the gardens, where 
walked an hour. Pas beaucoup de monde 1 . It is yet 
cold. At y 2 p. 2 to Hedboom's to dine. T: His 
wife and her sister, M'lle Poussett ; two very pretty 
women, but, malheureusement 1 , speaking nothing but 
Swedish ; Mr. Heuland ; two clerks of Mr. H., and 



1 Not many people. 

2 Unfortunately. 



I07 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Hosack. Before dinner, brandy, bread and cheese, 
salt herring, cut into small pieces and handed round. 
Fish, then soup, then bouilli and roti 1 ; good claret, of 
which the ladies partook. T'rinque*. All rose at once 
from table. Bows and salutations. Coffee served 
immediately. Then open rooms, third story. At 
7 came off with Heuland and Hosack. Chez nous. 
The adventure. Frederica. The bath in the fore- 
noon. Couche 12. 

14. Wennerquiest said I must positively change 
my lodgings ; that they are not reputable. Went to 
look at chambers. Ten rix dollars asked for such as 
could be had for a guinea in London. To the post- 
office, which is open on Sunday. Letters are called for, 
and not sent out. At yi p. 2 to Gahn's to dine. Wife, 
daughter, and niece, two brothers ; the member from 
Fahlun 3 and the Colonel ; a cousin, Diedron, very 
handsome young man ; Mr. Foster, the British charge 
d'affaires. At 7 to the ball with Colonel Gahn. 
Country dances ; how managed ; va/se 4 ; cotillions. 
Met Armfelt ; his apologies. Captain Baker or 
Becker of the British navy. Couche 12. 

15. Rose at 8. Un peu stupide s with Gahn's 
good wine. Breakfast at 9. At 1 1 sor. to Gahn's ; 
saw the family. He also came in. To Colonel 
Gahn's. Walked with him and Hosack to the 
Observatory. The views, the pictures. Dinner at 
the French Hotel with Colonel Gahn, Hosack being 

1 Boiled meat and roast meat. (Roti.) 

2 Glasses were touched in drinking. (Trinqu'e.) 
j Now Falun. 

4 Waltz. 

5 Rather stupid. 

IO8 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

engaged to dine at the Merchants Society with Hed- 
boom. After dinner walked to see the College. The 
gardens and park extensive, and the trees fine. Met 
the Countess C. and her niece. Took tea with her. 
Madame often folle 1 . 'Tous deux 7, speak in French and 
M'lle some English. The Baron W. Music. 
Politesse de Madame*. 

1 6. Having very mal apropos'' taken a little 
physic last evening, it kept me up till 5 ; took cold, 
lay till 9, and rose quite ill. While I was in bed 
Baron Munck's servant called and left the Baron's 
card (peut etre a visit a la Suedoise s )> and inquired 
whether I was engaged for Friday. An hour after he 
returned with an invitation from the Baron and Bar- 
oness to dine on Friday, which accepted. At 10 
Baron Armfelt's servant called to ascertain where I 
lodged. No message. Colonel Gahn came in at 11; 
sat half an hour. Sor. at 12. To Wennerquiest's, 
whom I met at his door. Strolled about for an hour. 
Then to Colonel Gahn's, and took him to introduce 
me to Catteau 6 , whom we found at home. A sprightly, 
well-bred man, apparently not more than 48. His 
congregation being principally dispersed, he proposes 
to return to Paris. Is now engaged in writing a View 
Physique et Commercial 1 of the Baltic, which will, 

1 Frolicsome. 

2 For toutes Us deux. Both of them. 

3 Madame's politeness. 

4 Inappropriately. , 

5 Possibly (peut-itre) a visit after the Swedish fashion, (si la suidoise.) 

6 Jean Pierre Guillaume Catteau-Calleville (1759-1819) was a historian and geographer of 
some repute whose life was spent partly in Stockholm and partly in Paris. For some years he 
was minister of the French Reformed Church of Stockholm. He also became a member of the 
Royal Academy and of the Academy of Sciences of that city. His written works referred 
mainly to Scandinavian countries. 

7 A physical and commercial view. 

IO9 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

undoubtedly, be very interesting. He will not pub- 
lish it until he reaches Paris. He had not a copy of 
his View of Sweden, nor have I been able to find one. 
An imperfect English translation I brought with me. 
Took a bowl of soup at home. At 6, went with 
Hosack to introduce him to Professor Gahn's family, 
and to take tea. T: The family (except the Doctor), 
two elderly ladies ; a daughter of Gahn of Falun. 
Left Hosack there and came off at 8. Supped on 
bread, butter, and cheese, with porter, hot water, and 
sugar. M'lle Gahn was engaged in making shoes 
a la 1 Melville. Eva Munck, granddaughter of Dr. 
Gahn. Beautiful child of 5. Writes a handsome 
hand. Coucbe at 11, intending to rise at 5. 

17. Rose at 9. A charming spring day. At 
11 came in Wennerquiest, with Slade and Hartshorne. 
The latter left New York on March 24th. They had 
just arrived from London, by the route of Harwich 
and Gothenburg. To Colonel Gahn's, who was in his 
nightgown, and writing. Took his servant to pilot me 
to the Marechal du Royaume 2 , Count Klingstrop (or 
near that), and Count Brae, governor of Gothenburg. 

By mistake the rascal took me to a Count , 

where I left a card, supposing it to be the marechal. 
Left cards, also, with the real marechal — up two flights 
of stairs. Spent half an hour hunting lodgings. 
Home at 1. Heuland came in, and we had three 
games of chess. At x / 2 p. 2, to the Society of Nobles, 
to dine ; an elegant, magnificent hotel, where none but 



1 After the manner of. 

2 Field-Marshal of the Kingdom (marechal). 



I IO 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

the society, and those introduced by a member, are 
admitted. You meet persons of the first distinction ; 
the first officers of state, foreign ministers, &c. A 
variety of dishes, and dessert ; and coffee served after 
dinner. A billiard room, card tables, a news-room, 
all the domestic and foreign gazettes, new publications, 
&c, a library beautifully situated. Four of us had 
two bottles of French wine, and our bill was 1 rix 
dollars each. Home at 5. Heuland came in and we 
had three games of chess. At y 2 p. 6 to the quarters 
of Slade and Hartshorne. To the theatre. A com- 
edy and farce in Swedish. Silence ; order ; not one 
laugh, except Hosack's. Less buffoonery than in 
England or the United States. The acting natural 
and sprightly. Curtain continues up till the end of the 
play, and again from beginning to the end of the farce. 
No change of siene 1 . The same through the whole 
performance. The orchestra good, and one of the 
women a very fine voice. Not a light except on the 
stage ; but between the pieces a large lustre 1 , with 
about twenty Argand lamps, let down from the ceil- 
ing, so that we could then see each other. No noise, 
even between the pieces, except cheerful talk, in the tone 
of common conversation. The dresses very good. No 
handsome or elegant women, but it is said that there 
is one who did not appear. A box ticket is a rix 
dollar ; but the highest places (they were all taken) a 
dollar banco 1 . At home a little past 10. Still daylight. 



1 So in the MS. 

2 A fine chandelier. 

j A dollar in undepreciated bank currency. See Glossary. 



I I I 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Read an hour in Acerbi 1 . Smoked and journalized. 
Couche at i. 

1 8. Mr. Gahn, nephew of the Professor, and a 
member of the Diet, called before I was up. Just 
looked into my room and went off. He called again 
at ii. Sent by Professor Gahn to show us lodgings. 
Hosack went out with him and got suited. Two 
rooms at 7 rix dollars (one guinea) per week, firewood 
(which is nothing at this season) included. Colonel 
Gahn having informed me that I was this day to be 
presented to the Regent, dressed for the purpose, and 
sat in state waiting for him till 1. Sent Hosack to 
see what was the matter. The Colonel had gone out 
early and left no message, Quod miruni 1 ! Went with 
Hosack to see our new quarters, which are commodi- 
ous and decent. H. went to dine at the hotel. I 
took three eggs at home. At 4 Heuland called by 
appointment to go to see the manufacture de fayance l y 
about 1 x / 2 miles. The principal was out and we saw 
nothing. Being near to the Comtesse C, went on to 
see her. They were dressing to go out. Returned 
alone. On the way the Comtesse overtook me, and 
stopped the carriage to parley. Reminded me of the 
ball to-morrow. M'lle la niece bien belle et bien mise. 4 
Home at 6, a little weary. These stones fatigue. 
Point de trotoir* and all the pavements pebbles. Before 
the arrival of Heuland this afternoon came in to see 



1 Giuseppe Acerbi (1773-1846), an Italian traveler and naturalist, author of " Travels 
Through Sweden, Finland, and Lapland " (1802.) 

2 Latin. How strange ! 

} Fox fayence ox faience. The faience manufactory. 

4 The niece very good-looking and well dressed. 

5 For point dc trottoirs. No sidewalks at all. 

112 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Hosack, by appointment, Potter, an old negroe 1 , who 
has married in this place a young lady of decent fam- 
ily. Appears a shrewd old dog. About 60. As 
ugly as possible. Gentlemen and ladies talk and walk 
with him in the street. On coming in he laid aside 
his Spanish cloak, which is the fashionable costume, 
took a chair, and sat near an hour. Heuland called at 
7, and we chessed till j4 p. 9- Sent for Hedboom to 
aid us to settle with our landlord. He would have 12 
rix dollars per week for rooms not worth 4, and which 
he offered for 6. Compounded for 10. Our week's 
living in this den is 3 guineas, though we had to 
go abroad for our dinners. 

19. We were up at 1 last night gathering and 
packing for removal this morning. Rose at 6 and to 
work at packing. Sent for Mr. Gahn, the apothek z , 
the son of the member from Falun, to interpret and 
assist in settling. At 9 he came. Our host, deter- 
mined to make the most of us, charged 12 rix dollars 
per week for the two rooms which he would gladly 
have let for 5 ; 12 sch 3 . per day for the servants' 
attendance. We finally settled at 21 rix dollars, 10.24 
each. We had breakfast and tea with them. Paid 1 
rix dollar to the boy. Our new quarters, two hand- 
somely furnished and pleasant rooms, with the use of 
a third in common with one other person, at 7 rix 
dollars per week. The rooms are worth double those 
we left, yet the price is double what it would be if the 

1 So in the MS. 

2 This word means in Swedish apothecary's shop, not the apothecary himself, which 
should be apotekare. 

3 Evidently Burr's abbreviation for the Swedish shilling, a copper coin now worth about a 
cent in American money. 

"3 



Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Diet 1 were off. No person in our new quarters speaks 
a word of French or English ; hence much vexation. 
Unpacked and settled ourselves. At y 2 p. 2 to dine 
with Baron Munck. T: The Baron et ux. and a little 
niece (12), Professor Arnt, and Dr. Domcier, the Ger- 
man physician to the Duke of Sussex, who is here a 
missionary for benevolent purposes from the Philan- 
thropic Society, invited, but did not come. The 
sideboard and brandy before dinner. At dinner, eggs, 
and slices of salt salmon ; roast beef; fish, then soup, 
veal, and spinach ; wild fowl. At table about two 
hours, then all rose together. Our bows, &c. Ad- 
journed to the saloon. Y: coffee. At y 2 p. 5 came 
off with Professor Arnt. On our way he took me to 
the German doctor's (Sussex) to introduce me ; out ; 
left card. Arnt came home with me and sat a while. 
At 6 Mr. Gahn (nev. z ) came to take us to the ball. 
Hosack, not being able to make his toilet, was left. 

On our way met Mr. of the City College, 

who went with us. Took boat (to save about five 
hundred going by the bridge); all these boats rowed 
by women. Paid y sch. At the ball about sixty 
ladies, (not so splendid as that at the Exchange) ; 

Countess of and her niece ; Baron Wrangle ; 

Baron Armfelt, who introduced me to his daughter, 
the Baroness of , a very fine woman ; a physi- 
ognomy of great intelligence ; tres belle. La Baroness 
de B. cru la plus belle. Pas par moi. 1 M'lle Sergei fl. 



1 The national parliament, then in session. 

2 For neveu. Nephew. 

3 Believed to be the most beautiful. Not by me. 



II 4 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr. 

nat. du statuaire 1 . Left the ball at 10 ; mal. a. t. ay ant 
tro. bu. z Hosack came in at 9 ; left him there. 
Home at y 2 p. 10. Rhea? Coucbe at 1 1 on the can- 
opie 4 ; can't endure the down bed. 

20. Rose at 5. Gueri de mal a T. mais pas bien. s 
A servant recommended by Gahn as speaking English. 
He asked a dollar banco per day. Sent off. I could 
not understand a sentence he said in any language. 
Mr. Bergstrom of the City College came in. Walked 
with him y z hour. Went to Professor Arnt's, whom 
saw. He proposes to walk with me on Sunday to see 
some objects of curiosity. A note from Professor (Dr.) 
Gahn asking H. and me to dine on Monday ; agreed. 
Home at 1. H. out. Slept on the can. 4 two hours. 
Read one hour in Acerbi. Tea at 6 pour dine 6 . Great 
vexation to make myself understood par Madame ou la 
jolie jungfru 1 . Professor Arnt came in from Baron 
Munck to ask me to dine at Haga (sa campagne % ) on 
Monday, but was engaged to Gahn. Amus. av. jungf. 
deux heur. "Tres b. 9 H. came in at 11, having dined 
at the country house of Wennerquiest, where met 
Slade. Invitation to me was sent but not received in 
season. Captain , adjutant, called in the fore- 
noon and amused me with details of the disposition of 
the Swedish forces and those of Russia which are on 
the frontier. Great vexation about the key. A trav- 

1 Miss Sergei, natural daughter [file naturelle] of the statuary. 

2 For mal a la fete, ayant trap bu. Headache from having drunk too much. 

3 Probably meant for Latin of rhubarb. See Glossary. 

4 For canape. Sofa. 

j Cured of headache, but not well. 

6 Pour dine or diner. For dinner. 

7 By madame or the pretty maid. From now on Burr talks much of the jungfrus. 

8 His country-house. 

9 For m'amusai avec la jungfru deux heures. Tres bien. Had fun with the jungfru (maid) 
for two hours. Fine ! 

115 



Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

erse I'antichambre. U. muse venoit. Ne saur. renvoir 1 . 

21. Couche at 12. Rose at 5. Breakfast at 7. 

Mr. , a military officer and very gentlemanlike ; 

speaks French and English ; has been at Paris, &c, 
came in at 11. We walked together to hear Catteau 
preach. The service was nearly concluded before we 
got there. The congregation consisted of nine women 

and thirteen men. Walked with to the King's 

Garden (or Vauxhall); full of monde 1 . Home at 1. 
Catteau came in and sat half an hour. Pleasant, cheer- 
ful, and instructive. Tea at 6 pour dine. H. went 
out at 1 and returned at 10. Passed the evening seul 
reading Acerbi. 

22. Couche at 12. Rose x / 2 p. 6. Breakfast at 
8. Always sweet rye bread and very bad butter, of 
which the pound will last us a month. Have eaten 
nothing, nothing but this bread, since Friday. At 1 1 
called on Hartshorne and Slade ; then home. Dr. 
Domcier, physician to Duke of Sussex and physician to 
his B. M. 2 for Hanover, called during my absence. 
This is the missionary of the Philosophic Society of 
London. Heuland, and soon after, Charles Forsfell, 
lieutenant topographe\ called ; though we were dressing, 
both sat, and we continued our toilet. Agreed to 
meet the Lieutenant at 6 in the King's Garden. At 
Y^ p. 2 to Dr. Gahn's to dine. We were late. Dinner 
was on the table. T: J. G. Gahn ; Madame , 

1 Probably for a trovers Vantichambre. U muse Venait. Ne saurais [la] renvojer. Across 
the hall, maid muse came. I couldn't send her back. (The word muse is used throughout 
the Journal by Burr in describing his amorous adventures. The literal meaning in French 
is " the beginning of rutting time." He evidently uses a very unusual word for the purpose of 
veiling his meaning.) 

2 People. 

3 Britannic Majesty >. 

4 Topographer. 

Il6 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

jol. 1 blonde, married fifteen days ago ; sa soeur M'lle 

, aussi belle et interessante ; chev. brun enfonce ; 

touche la harpe superieuremenf ; their brother, a very 
handsome and genteel young man. At 6, to the Gar- 
den to meet the Lieutenant. He was not there. 

Madame and M'lle Gahn de Falun came in 

with the son and daughter of Dr. Gahn ; walked with 
them x / 2 hour and met the Lieutenant. Went with 
him to the puppet show ; very well for such a throng, 
but very silly for Gamp. Aupre a tres jo. U. Un 
arran. ft. mais manq ; ne scats par quoi 1 . Home at 9. 
Tea. Mem.: Wrote to Mr. Achaud and sent the 
letter to Hedboom to be forwarded. On coming to 
Dr. Gahn's to-day, the little Eva, who speaks not one 
word of French or English, ran and seized me around 
the neck in the most affectionate manner. She talks 
to me a great deal, and imagines that I understand 
every word. She is one of the most beautiful and 
interesting children I ever saw. The dinner was sump- 
tuous, and would, in any part of the world, have been 
thought tres bien. The forms, as before, except that 
soup followed immediately the salt herring. Three of 
the ladies very sprightly and animated in conversation. 

An officer of the rank of remarked to me that I 

spoke French much better than English, and inquired 
which of the European languages the native language 
of the Americans most resembled ! 



1 For jolie blonde. 

2 Her sister, M'lle , also fine looking and interesting; dark brown hair ( fonce) ; 

plays the harp in a superior manner. 

3 For Aupres une tres jolie U. [jungfru?]. Un arrangement fait, mais manqua ; ne sais 
pourquoi. With a very pretty maid ; an arrangement made._ but failed ; I know not why. 

117 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

23. Couche at 12, but insomnie 1 ; got asleep at 5 
and slept till past 9. When I rose, H. had just got 
up. Professor Arnt being expected at 10, we had 
enough to do to get dressed and breakfast. He came 
in just after 10. Our miserable breakfast just ready. 
Went with him at 1 1 to the Palace to see the pictures, 
the statues, and library. Passed there an hour. Home 
at 1. Slade and Hartshorne came in and sat a few 
minutes. Seven American vessels taken by the Danes. 
At two went to Hedboom's ; out. Thence to the 
Bad Huset z ; ordered water to be heated and walked 
out. Bought small piece of soap ; 1 rix dollar ; they 
have none but soft soap at the bath. With some diffi- 
culty got it ready by 4. Two LPs 1 to assist, rub, &c. 
Paid 3 rix dollars ; 1 fP. Home at yi P- 5- Bought 
bread, 3 sch. ; cheese, 14 sch. Tea pour dine. Sor. 
at 8. To Dr. Gahn's. Y : The family and Don 
Morinos, the Spanish Junta minister. Supped there, 
and home at 10. Mem.: Baron Munck invites us for 
Wednesday to Haga. Message by Professer Arnt. 
Agreed to go. 

24. Couche at 12. Rose at 6. The supper at 
Dr. G.'s disagreed with me. Not well sleep. Break- 
fast at 8. At 9 sor. to Hedboom's. Left him with 
10 guineas to be changed into Swedish paper. Pours i 
un U. ba. eng. 9 c. soi s . Chez moi at 10. Gahn came in 

1 Wakefulness. 

2, For badhuset. Swedish. The bath-house. 

J For jungfrus ? 

4 A riddle. 

5 This is a fair sample of the sort of riddles frequently introduced by Burr in the Journal. 
They are generally in French, in part, at least, and consist largely of abbreviations. This prob- 
ably stands for Poursuivii une jungfru (or fille) badine (or handle). Engagement pour gee soir. 
Pursued a sportive (or common-place) lass. Made an engagement with her for 9 o'clock 
to-night. Ba. may stand for basse, inferior, vile. 

Il8 



Private journal of Aaron Burr . 

and staid an hour. Went with him to Heuland's to 
introduce him, they being both mineralogists. Found 
Heuland y l and left them together. Sort an? met M'lle 
Posse belle souer^ de Hedboom. Entered and talked a 
few moments by signs. 9$ji ell. esjo 4 . Chez moi at 12. 
At 1 barouche fiakre s to take us to Haga. Mr. Potter 
noir de Boston m'd ici un blanche d'un famille 6 . Very 
civil and useful. To Vieux 1 Haga. Y; The Baron, 
ux. et niece; le General Baron C. de Morner, ch. d'un 
reg. de Hussards*. Dined in the room in which the 
revolution of 1772 was projected and matured by 
Gustavus III. The pavilion; three cabinets and six 
stoves ; six canop. 9 de crimson velvet. Le General si 
bieu bu. quil se couche ivr. sur can. en bot. 10 At dinner 
Gamp gave " Les Prisoniers Royaux"" which was 
received by Baron Munck with inexpressible sensibility, 
tears, &c. Apres din. un promenade.™ Called back to 

meet the Countess of and , the former 

being her we saw at Desbero's ; belle femme ; all speak 
French fluently. The Prince and his elder sister walk 
with the two ladies of the Queen's suite to New Haga. 
Beautiful promenade along the lake. The temple ; 
the pavilion ; echo. Went through the lower story of 

1 There. 

2 For en sortant. On going forth. 
J For belle-soeur. Sister-in-law. 

4 For Quelle est jolie ! How pretty she is ! 

5 Note the spelling and also the queer tautology ! One might as well say in English, 
coach-coupe ! 

6 Mr. Potter, a negro from Boston, married here a well-to-do white woman. ( line blanche 
de famille.) 

7 Old. He speaks of both a New Haga and a Vieux Haga. 

8 General Baron C. de Morner, chief of a regiment of Hussars. (Chef.) 

9 For canapes. Couches. 

10 For le General est si bien buveur qit'il se couche ivre sur le canape en bottes. The General 
so much of a drinker that he goes to bed drunk on the sofa with his boots on. 

11 "The Royal Prisoners." This probably referred to Ferdinand VII., Baron Munck's 
father, then recently detained by Napoleon in France. 

12 A promenade after dinner. 

II 9 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

the Palace. Four beautiful rooms. Picture of Gus- 
tavus III. To the new Palace. Magnificent plan. 
The model. The place for the guard. Singular effect 
produced by copper pavilions and tents painted a la 
Chinois\ Back to Old Haga at 9. Supper. The 
Baron walks with us to town. T arr. z at x / 2 p. 10; 
very light ; daylight. Locked out and great plague ; 
a lajin\ got in but spoiled lock. Paid for hack 2j4 
rix dollars, the distance being about two and a half 
English miles. The Hermaph. stat. 4 at Baron Munck's. 
Professor Arnt restoit a Vieux Haga 5 . Tro. bu et tro. 
mang. Fum. till i 6 . Mem. : On returning home 
found Baron Armfelt's card. The Prince is a fine boy 
of 9 ; eyes and forehead very good ; the lower part 
not corresponding. The Princess, 7, not handsome. 
Neither of them looking very healthy. They were in 
a little barouche, drawn by four little horses. Near 
the Palace saw the youngest Princess, about 1 year 
old ; pretty. The second daughter, about 5, is a 
cripple. 

25. Lev. at 6. Chaufff. Sor. at 8 av. dejeun. 
cherch. bague. Pas trouv 8 . Ret. <? 9 . Heuland came in ; 
took breakfast with us and we played two games chess; 
won both. La. be. Mar. Sentm. su. le bag 10 . Paid 7 

1 For a la chinoise. After the Chinese fashion. 

2 For^ arrivons. We arrive there. 

3 Finally. 

4 The statue of Hermaproditus, the fabled son of Hermes and Aphrodite, combining both 
sexes in one body, and regarded as the emblem of indissoluble marriage. There are numerous 
statues of this mythological personage, e.g. in Florence, Rome, Naples, and Paris. 

5 Professor Arnt remained at Old Haga. 

6 For [yavais] trof bu et trap mange. Futnai till I. I had eaten and drunk too much. 
Smoked till I. i 

7 Probably for Je me suis chauff'e. I warmed myself. 

8 Went out at 8 before breakfast looking for ring. Didn't find it. (Sors avant dejeuner 
cherchant [une\ bague. [Je ne la~\trouve pas.) 

9 For retournai a g. Returned at 9. 

10 La belle Marie ; ses sentiments sur la bague. Pretty Marie; her feelings about the ring. 

I20 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

rix dollars for one that pleased. Potter came in at 8 
and staid till i. A good fellow. After he and Hosack 
went out settled for le bag; tres cont. ton. du x . He 
returned at y 2 p. 2. Got from Hedboom 78.10 rix 
dollars for 10 guineas, that is, 7.40 each. Paid 
Hosack 16.36, balance of his account for sundries. 
Hosack sort'd* and I got bottle of beer, of which 
with bread and butter and three eggs made a good 
dinner. At 6 to Dr. Gahn's, where met the family ; 
la belle ; Madame Wedenberg and her beauti- 
ful daughter. Pretty manner of saluting. The young 
ladies went to walk au jar din du roiJ Came home 
at 9. 

16. Couche at r / 2 p. 11. Rose at 6. Mr. Gahn 

the younger of Falun came to breakfast with us. 
Heuland also came in. At 9 to Baron Armfelt's. 
Recu tres grac. A Proposes to arrange for my present- 
ation to the Regent. Will make a visit for me to 
Prime Minister by sending his servant with my card ! 
Home at 10. Sor. at 11 to the Palace to see Baron 
Munck ; out, at Haga. In Palace yard met la U 
noted le 2 2d, 2d pag. Don. addr? Chez nous at 12. 
Settled for our rooms, 7 rix dollars 32 sch.; y 2 equals 
3.40. To the lodgings of Slade & company, where 
met Slade. To dine at the Nobles Society. This 
place is well described by Acerbi. Mr. Andre there 
and civil. Hartshorne and Slade. Hosack came in 



1 Settled for the ring. Very much pleased. The rest is a riddle. Possibly for toute douce. 
Very sweet, gentle. 

2 Here Burr again turns a French verb into an English verb. This means Hosack went out. 

3 To or in the King's garden. 

4 For Rei^u tres gracieusement. Very graciously received. 

5 For met la jungfru noted le 22d, 2d page. Me donna son adresse. Met the maid noted on 
the 22d, 2d page. She gave me her address. 

121 



Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

whilst here. Dinner : Ice cream, bottle of wine for 
three ; bill i rix dollar 24 sch. each. To Mr. Heu- 
land's. He came home with me and we played chess 
an hour. Took boat to go to the theatre at Uregong. 
Towed by two old women about ij4 miles. Paid 12 
shillings rix. All the watermen are women. What a 
little barn ! Thirty-two persons in the boxes. Amused 
with the pantomime and ballet. The site of the 
theatre romantic and beautiful. Returned at ]/ 2 p. 9 ; 
broad daylight. To read or what you please. Re- 
turned across the island. The King's ferries ; pay 
nothing; gave 2 sch. at each. 2 U's. 15. Rendev.; 1 
banco 1 . Potter went as our pilot. Hosack returned 
at 10. Com. pr. J jou. pas. silen. com. ang. et 
uncommun 2 . Women are r\s\\ermen as well as watermen. 
Two in a small boat, each a line attached to a small 
stick in each hand ; these they keep moving gently up 
and down. 

27. Couche at x / 2 p. 11. Rose at 6. Hosack 
tre gravJ Dejeu. 8 4 . Heuland came in ; chess for 
two hours. Walked an hour before breakfast ; to the 
markets, &c. At 1 1 called on Baron Munck ; made 
arrangements to meet him on Tuesday to see the 
Museum and the Palace. Gahn nev. s came in. We 
walked to see the attelier de 6 Sergei. The Pshyche 7 



I For two jungfru j, I J, rendex-vous ; I [dollar] banco. 

z Another riddle. May it not stand for : Comfagnon pour trois jours passes silencieux comme 
un Anglais et uncommunicative. For the past three days my chum has been silent as an English- 
man and uncommunicative. 

3 For Hosack tris grave. Hosack very solemn. 

4 For dejeuner a 8. Breakfast at 8. 

5 For neveu. Nephew. 

6 The studio (atelier) of Sergei. Jean Tobie Sergei was a very celebrated Swedish sculptor. 
He lived in Stockholm until his death in 1814. 

7 So in the MS. The Psyche and Cupid was one of Sergei's best known works. 



122 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

and Cupid ; the minister ; Muse of history ; the 
Mars carrying off Venus, wounded and fainting ; the 
boy picking a thorn out of his foot, and the statue of 
Gustavus III. are works of great merit. Some of his 
copies, too, are fine, but the preceding are said to be 
original. In the bust of Gustavus III. a great like- 
ness to Baron Munck. The Queen who was Princess 
of Baden, said to be handsome, but in the bust very 
defective in the nose and mouth. Sergei hypocond. 1 
and confined to his room, seeing no company. Home 
at i. Found waiting, Bergstrom. He offers to give 
me a lesson in Swedish every day, to which I agree. 
A raw egg, bread and butter and water pour boisson^ 
-pour dine 1 . At 6 to Dr. Gahn's ; out, all out. Roved 
about y 2 hour. Home and took tea. At 8 to Dr. 
Gahn's again ; all out. Hosack quite ill with a pain 
in the ear. In the morning called on Slade and 
Hartshorne. While I was out, Arvfedson called and 
left card. This morning an invitation from Wenner- 
quiest to dine on Tuesday, which accepted. Home at 
9. Mem. : Returning from Sergei's parted with Gahn 
on the bridge. Sedu. par a laid vir. Ent'd. X'd 2. 
Mauv. 1 R. D. J 

28. Couche at 12. Rose at y£ p. 6. Hosack 
says he has slept none ; but the swelling in his ear has 
discharged and he is better. Our valet did not come 
till y 2 p. 8. Got our breakfast at 8. No butter, and 
being Sunday, none to be had. At 10 came in Dr. 

1 For hypochondriac. 

2 And water for a beverage for dinner. 

J Probably seduit par une laide virago. Entered, etc. Mauvais. Led astray by an ugly 
virago. Entered. ed twice. Bad. I rix dollar. 

123 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Gahn, sent for medically ; thinks the cure is already 
performed. Sat an hour. Says the President Enger- 
strom, Minister of Foreign Affairs, expects me to-day. 
Gave me his address ; so dressed ; took Potter and 
sallied forth ; arrived at the Palace we found that the 
President did not live there, though he had hired the 
house and was expected there in a few days. He lives 
now on the Stade Holmen 1 ; thought this very odd ; 
did not go to see him lest the whole affair should be a 
mistake as well as what regarded the residence. Home 
at 12. Wrote to Dr. G. the failure. Read an hour. 
At Y / 2 p. 2 walked, alone, on the Soder Malm, the 
island south of this. (Note : I live on the Stade 
Holmen, iigj4 Lilla Nygatan 2 .) Sought the high 
ground, but could get no distant view, not above two 
or three miles. This part of the city very clean and 
neat ; most of the houses are white. Roved about 
for two hours without seeing or meeting anything 
remarkable or amusing. Chez nous at j4 p. 4- At 7 
sor. again seul. Across the Palace bridge, across the 
Kung's Holmen 5 , to the Transberg's Bron ; being 
from my lodgings about three miles. In the midst of 
rocky eminences, most beautiful verdure and bloom. 
Many pretty farms and country seats. This is the 
road to Drottningholm where I was to have passed the 
the day ; but the distance, being about eight English 
miles, I thought too great to walk and return. The 
wind strong ahead prevented a water passage and 5 rix 
dollars was asked for a horse and chair, which I did 



1 For Stadsholmen. Swedish. City island. 

2 Swedish. Little New street. 

j For Kungsholmen. King's island. 



124 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

not choose to give. Nothing but a tres bel. bra. 1 at a 
window, both going and returning. Home at x / 2 p. 8. 
Not a soul has been near our quarters since Dr. G. 
this morning. At 2 before going out took bread, one 
raw egg, and water. At 6, tea, bread, butter, and 
three eggs boiled. 

29. Couche at 12. Lev. at 6. Before I was out 
of bed a servant of Armfelt came in with a note from 
him informing me that there would be a levee at the 
Regent's at 9 when I would be presented. Dressed 
and went to General A.'s a little before 9, but it seems 
that I must have a sword, chapeau bra?, and buckles ; 
so put off the presentation till Thursday. At 11 to 
manufacturer of hosiery. To d' Aries', French emig. 
Iibraire\ to see about lodgings. He offers rooms 
which we shall take principally for the convenience of 
his library, of which he offers the use, and for that of 
being in a family whose language we can understand. 
Agreed to call at 4. Dinner cbez moi. Skropel et eau. A 
At 4 to d' Aries's ; raining hard ; agreed to send final 
answer by H. this evening. On the way to D.'s Vis. 
inv. pr. fois U. pa. bi. jo. ma. bi. fa. Bo. suj. 1 r. d. s 
Chez moi. at 6. Coffee, and three eggs for supper. 
Mar. ne. vin. pa. 6 Hosack dines at the Society of the 
Nobles. Note from Baron Munck that at 12 to-mor- 



1 For tres beau bras. Very pretty arm; or possibly the last word is bru. for brunette, in 
which case it should read une tres belle brunette. 

2 Chapeau. Hat. The reference of bra. is doubtful. It might mean brave, spruce or 
smart, or brod'e, embroidered. 

3 French emigrant [emigre] , bookseller. 

4 Probably for skorpa et eau. Biscuit and water. The Swedish food skorpa was much like 
the German ■x.wiebaci or the English rusk, a light, sweetened bread or biscuit, browned. 

5 Another mystery. May be : Visitai invite plusieurs fois une jungfru pas bien jolie mats 
bien faite. Bon sujet. I rix dollar. I visited after repeated invitations a maid not very hand- 
some, but well put together. A good subject. I rix dollar. 

6 For Marie ne vint pas. Marie didn't come. 

125 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

row he would show the Palace. Dr. Gahn called this 
morning, professing to see H. Bergstrom this P. M. 
30. Couche at 1. Having drank strong coffee, 
kept awake till 4. Rose at x / 2 p. 7. At 10 walked an 
hour. At 12 to the Palace. Baron Munck went 
through the whole with me. The magnificence, extent, 
and elegance of the apartments. Manner of seizing 
the King y explained. At 2 chez nous. Slade and 
Hartshorne came in just before 3 to walk with me to 
dinner. Dinner chez Wennerquiest. T: Hartshorne, 

Slade, Hosack, , a sensible Swede speaking 

English; , a German speaking French and 

English, and a brother of Wennerquiest's. Dinner 
passed gaily ; served aV Anglois 1 . All drank much 
and some too much. Stole off at 6. Home. Gahn 
neveu came in ; we walked to d'Aries's. All out to 
Drottningholm, leaving a note for me saying that they 
expected me and I 'aim able sec. z to dine there at 2. To 

the King's garden. Vin de J . To Dr. Gahn's. 

T: The family ; the president of the committee for 
preparing the plan of a constitution. Colonel G. came 
in, but scarcely spoke to me. For the first two days 
he devoted himself to me with great assiduity, and 
since that time tout d'un coup 4 perfectly cold. Came 
off at 8. Home. Mem. : This morning called on 
Mrs. Daily with whom I was fellow passanger from 
Harwich. Saw her and Mr. D. Engaged me to dine 
on Thursday next. Mem. : Baron Munck gave me 

1 Notice his incorrect way of writing the expression a 1'anglaise. 

2 For Vaimable secretaire. The amiable secretary. 

3 Wine of , or rather wine. 

4 All of a sudden. 

126 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

the names of five gentlemen (holding office about the 
person of the Regent) whom I ought to visit previous 
to being presented. Offered to make the visits for me 
if I would give him five cards, which I did. The 
visits will be made by sending those cards by a servant. 
Baron M. also offered to introduce me to-morrow 
morning at 9, to which agreed. 

31. Couche x / 2 p. 11. Rose at 6. Unpeu lourd. 
Trop bu bier 1 . At 10 sor. to buy chapeau, &c. Was 
asked 25 rix dollars for a very indifferent castor hat 
and 1 5 rix dollars for one much worse ; the best of 
them not worth y 2 guinea. For a pair of common 
plated buckles, 3 rix dollars, not worth 2 shillings 6 
pence. These are rather too heavy taxes to pay for 
the honor of visiting the Regent. Baron Armfelt's 
servant was here at 7 this morning with a message 
from the Baron that he would meet me at the Palace 
at y 2 p. 9 to-morrow morning to introduce me. Note 
from Baron Munck inviting us to dine at Haga on 
Friday. Replied oui z . Tried to borrow hat, but in 
vain. ghioi faire ? Am committed to the two barons 
and to the five gentlemen in waiting. 

Stockholm, June 1, 1809. The Journal has 
been neglected since Wednesday last, and now, on 
Tuesday evening, at 10 at night, writing by daylight, 
I sit down to recollect the trifling incidents of the last 
six days. Trifling, indeed ! but if the operations of 
my head and heart could be delineated, each day would 
fill a volume. Couche at 12. Rose at 6. Full of 



I Rather heavy (thick-headed). Drank too much yesterday (Trap bu.). 
z Yes. 



127 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr. 

business for the levee, and am at length accoutred with 
the three deficient articles of buckles, sword, and hat. 
The buckles were bought for i rix dollar, being worth 
about 9 pence. Sword borrowed from Dr. Gahn, and 
hat, which was the greatest trouble, borrowed by H. 
from a good-natured French marchand 1 . Baron M. 
sent his servant last evening to say that I must be at 
his chambers in the Palace at ^ before 9. Went 
punctually and found him ready. The levee com- 
menced exactly at 9. We were on the spot at the 
moment. You would have laughed to see Gamp with 
his sword and immense three-cornered hat. We 
waited one hour exactly before the Regent made his 
appearance. He is 61 years of age, but appears much 
older, and an air use 1 ; something like Mr. Samuel 
Hatchin's, only not so tall by about three inches, and 
has a flat nose. Mr. H., too, has rather the advant- 
age in point of dignity and grace. His Royal High- 
ness exchanged a few words with me in French. He 
was in the room about twenty minutes. Spoke to 
about fifteen or twenty persons. A few kissed his 
hand. There were present sixty-three persons. I 
counted them. Vice-Admiral Stedingk was particu- 
larly attentive to me. Got home at 11, excessively 
fatigued. Lay an hour on the sofa reading Catteau. 
Made agreement to-day with Mons. d'Aries for one 
room on a first floor (which is what we call second 
story), and the occasional use of a parlour to receive 
visitors, and two rooms for Hosack in the fifth story 
at 7 rix dollars per week. Took tea at 6 pour din. 

1 Merchant. 

2 Worn out (use). _ _ o 



Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr . 

i. Couche at \i. Rose at 6. Set to work to 
packing, &c, as we are to move this morning. Made 
several attempts to wake H., but in vain. At 8 he 
got up and said he would pack his things in 5 minutes 
and would then help me. By 1 1 I had done and 
went out, leaving him at work. Went to d' Aries's, 
where H. came with the things at 1. On my way to 
D.'s called on U. and agreed to call again at 10 to-night. 
At 1 walked to Haga, about two and a half miles, to 
dine with Baron Munck. T: His beaufrer 1 , a hand- 
some young man who lives in Westmania 1 ; his name 

is , being the brother of Madame Munck; Dr. 

Domcier ; Mr. Laing or some such name, a Russian 
merchant ; Professor Arnt ; Baron Armfelt ; Munck's 
wife and niece, and Hosack. The dinner good and 
cheerful. After dinner we walked two hours and 
returned to tea. Armfelt, Domcier, and Laing had 
gone. After tea walked with Baron M. and the rest 
two hours again. Then came in to supper. The 
supper is a very substantial meal ; fish, roast, fricasses 1 , 
&c. Two cards were received by the Muncks whilst 
I was there announcing the death, one of a husband, 
the other of a father, both concluding with this cau- 
tion, " Condolences are not received." Came off at 
y 2 p. 10 with Professor Arnt and Hosack. Home at 
y 2 p. 11. Sor. at 12 to U. Fredrick 4 , suiv arrgtJ ; 
heard several voices ; frappe 6 and off. Professor Arnt's 



1 For beau-fr'ere. Brother-in-law. 

2 For Westmannia or Westmanland, an old province of Sweden. 
} For fricassees. Fricassees. 

4 Elsewhere Burr refers to this personage as Frederica. 

5 For suivant V arrangement. According to arrangement. 

6 Knock. 



129 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

opinion that all women ought to be shut up as in 
Persia. 

3. Couche at 12. Rose at 7. Fro. bu. Pas bien 1 . 
Sor. before breakfast to U. Fredrick ; 1 rix dollar. 
'Tro. use 1 . Breakfast at 9. Read a romance, " Les 
Amour de Daphnis et Cloe 1 " traduit du Grec de Longus 
par Arryot 4 . This romance is supposed to have been 
written after that of Heliodorus ("Theagenes and 
Chariclea"). Dined on sugar, water, and bread. A 
promenade seul to Kongl. Djur Garden 5 , about two 
miles. Returned sans aventure 6 . Tea at 9. 

4. Couche at 11. Rose at y 2 p. 5. Dejeun. 7 at 7. 
Read variously and desultorily. Eau sue. et pain pr. 
din. s At 6 set out for Lisbon Hill, where we are 
invited by Wennerquiest to a musical party. Very 
much amused on the way to see the mode of passing 
Sunday. Vast numbers of both sexes engaged in 
various sports. Fiddles and other musical instruments. 
Dancing parties in many houses. Always a comedie 9 
on Sunday. Went half a mile beyond the house of 
W. before I could ascertain where it was. At length 
found it. He was in town. One Swedish servant only 
at home. No preparation for any party. Returned 
home at 9 and took coffee, wondering at this disap- 
pointment. Note: In the forenoon called on Madame 
Daily. 

1 Had drunk too much and did not feel well. 

2 Too much used up. 

3 So in the MS. 

4 " The Amours of Daphnis and Chloe," translated from the Greek of Longus by Arryot. 

5 See Glossary. 

6 Without adventure. 

7 For dejeuner. Breakfast. 

8 For Eau sucree et pain pour diner. Sugar-water and bread by way of dinner. 

9 For comedie. Comedy. 

I30 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

5. The coffee kept me awake all night. At 3 
or a little before, walked out to see the sun rise at 3. 
A beautiful horizon from the Observatory hill. Got 
my breakfast at 6. During the night formed a plan 
for return to the United States. Full of it all day. 
New Jersey was to be my location. This forenoon 
saw Hosack for the first time since living at this house. 
He had been charged by Wennerquiest to tell me that 
the party intended for Sunday was postponed, but 
omitted to do it. Breakfast as usual, with the addition 
of a salt herring. Din. eau et pain. 1 Sor. at 3. Une 
blan. jeun. jo. embon. % \ 1 rix dollar. Read desultorily 
and sans objet que distraire. 1 Hartshorne came in P. 
M. and a game of chess. 

6. Couche at 11. Lev. at 6. At 7 came in 
Mari de Lil. Ny. gat. 4 about some demands of the lady. 
A very seasonable visit ; 1 rix dollar. The demands left 
unsettled; will call on Thursday. The proclamation 
of the new King ; great show ; heralds ; trumpets ; 
music ; military, &c. Moi* in the midst enticed off 
by a lit. brun. 6 ; 1 rix dollars. This day we receive 
news of the new arrangement between the United 
States and Great Britain ; the proclamation of the 
President opening intercourse with Great Britain. 

7. Note from Laing, the Russian merchant, to 
remind me of the dinner to-day at Albino — Cravi 
Tiske or royaume des ecrivisses. 1 Walked, being about 

1 Bread and water for dinner. 

2 For une blanche jeune jolie [femme]. Embonpoint. A pale, pretty, young woman. Plump. 

3 And without other object than amusement. 

4 Swedish for Little New Street. (Lilla Njgatan.) 

5 I. 

6 A little brunette ? 

7 Kingdom of the crabs. Burr's words Cravi Tisie may represent the Swedish word Krabb- 
tasia, Crabs. The restaurant may have received that nickname from the fact that a specialty 
was made of crawfish. 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

two miles ; a most beautiful and picturesque prome- 
nade. T; About twenty, i. e., ten of each sex. A 
very expensive and splendid dinner. Baron Stedingk, 
late minister to Russia, fern, and two children. U's 1 10 
and 13 and leur gowvernante 1 ; the elder fille 1 intelligent 

and well educated. La gouvernante M'lle jol. 

et interesting. Madame , two daughters and a 

son ; the daughters both handsome ; belle embonp*. 
Mr. Phillipson et ux.; a very amiable woman, 30 ; the 
secretary of Stedingk, a well-informed young man ; 
Dr. Domcier; his singular position that in England 
there were 3,000 to a square mile ; Mr. Foster, the 
British charge d'affaires. Tro. bu and stole off alone 
at 9. Note : The wife of the vice-admiral, Stedingk, 
has several sisters of much renown. 

8. Couche at 12. Lev. at 6 un feu lourdK 
Mari came in at 7 to settle accounts ; 2 rix dollars. 
Sor. at 1 1 with Dr. Gahn, who called to invite me to 
go and see the show. All the troops, as well militia 
as regulars, under arms, to be sworn to the new King 
and constitution. Sworn by regiments and by word 
of command. Immense concourse of people of all 
sexes and ages. The King rode about on horseback, 
saluting and saluted. At 2 chez moi. Eau et pain. 
Finished reading Eustace's " Letter to Cleomenes," 
430 octavo pages. A strange medley of things per- 
sonal, of Grecian and Roman history and maxims, of 
anecdotes, &c, but not badly put together, and amus- 



I Jungfrus. 

% Their governess. 

3 Daughter, girl. 

4 Fine looking, plump. 
j Rather dull. 



132 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

ing. Written in 1730. Says he is the nearest male 
relation of the late Mr. Addison. At 6 to tea at 
Gahn's by invitation. T Colonel Gahn to attend 
me to the levee, which is announced for this evening 
at 7. Put on my sword and tripod, and went. A 
very splendid display of beauty. There were many 
hundreds. Those who pretended to be able to form 
a judgment said 1,600. The King looked much 
better than when I last saw him ; went very well 
through the forms. The Queen still better. The 
Princess Louisa appeared to labour, and to be fatigued 
with it. Met there all my acquaintances of both sexes. 
Came off at 9 and supped at Gahn's. Hosack there. 

The family and M'lle . La belle boit. qui touche 

si bien la harpe. Et sa soeur airiee 1 . Gahn the 

nephew left town for Falun this day to my great 
regret for he was my most useful and willing guide. 
He called to take leave. Home at x / 2 p. 10. 

9. Couche at x / 2 p. 12. Lev. at 6. How very 
regular we are grown ! Breakfast at 9. Read the life 
of Captain John Smith, who went with the first colony 
to Virginia and afterward to New England. It is 
extracted from Belknap into an English compilation 
entitled " Polyanthea, or Collection of Interesting 
Fragments." Sor. at ]/ 2 p. 1. Un strolle 2 . Met 
Wennerquiest, who asked me to a musical party on 
Sunday at Djurgarden. Home at x / 2 p. 2. Eau et 
fain. Sor. at 5. Rencont. U. que vis hier. Mar. 



1 The pretty lame girl (boiteuse) who plays the harp so well, and her elder sister (soeur 
ain'ee). 

2 Notice the puerile mixture of French and misspelled English. 

l 33 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Carol, bio. jeu. i^r. d. Rendev. pr. Lund. 3 P.M. 1 

D'Aries brought in to see me the Baron , who 

is a member of the Diet and a lodger in this house ; 
a frank, sensible man, speaking French fluently. He 
is on a committee to reform judicial proceedings. Not 
heard of our J. B. 2 Supped with Mons. d'A. Took 
neither tea nor coffee this P. M. 

10. Couche at ^ p. 12. Slept till waked by my 
noir 1 at x / 2 p. 7. I am better without the afternoon 
tea and coffee and resolve to discontinue it. Raining 
hard, which prevents my intended walk to Drottning- 
holm, about eight miles. Read two or three hours 
this morning in a French work printed in 1804, 
entitled, " De la Philosophic de la Nature ou Traite de 
Morale pour le Genre Humain tire de la Philosophie et 
fonde sur la Nature." Jme edit. 4 The style very fine. 
Great advocate for natural law, as the foundation of all 
law and morals. "Cette loi naturelle gravee sur le 
coeur."* A great deal of pretty and ingenious nonsense 
of the like kind. Pretending to quote and confute all 
writers, ancient and modern, who hold a contrary doc- 
trine ; but not naming Bentham, though published at 
Paris. The book is anonymous, but said to be the 

6 . Dinner by invitation with d' Aries. Lui, 

Madame, et Madame veuve du consul Portugais 



1 For Rencontrai la jungfru que vis hier. Marie Caroline ; blonde, jeune. I % rix dollars. 
Rendezvous pour Lundi, J P. M. Met the maid whom I saw yesterday. By name Mane Caro- 
line ; blonde, young. Ij£ rix-dollars. Appointment for } P.M. Monday. 

2 Jeremy Bentham. 

3 Negro. 

4 "Of the Philosophy of Nature ; or Treatise on Ethics for the Human Race, drawn from 
Philosophy, and Founded on Nature." Seventh edition. 

5 This natural law graven on the heart. 

6 Sentence unfinished. 

134 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

mats nee italienne. 1 This morning while I was shaving, 
came into my room a tall, graceful, pretty woman, 
plainly but neatly dressed. Asked if I could speak 
Swedish. No. German. No. Italian. No. I then 
asked her if she could speak English. No. French? 
No. So that it seemed that communication by words 
was out of question. I made her, however, understand 
that I was going to the country, and would be glad to 
see her again on Tuesday morning at the same hour, 
viz., 7 o'clock. Who she is, or what the pretence of 
the visit, I can form no conjecture. 

ii. Mr. d' Aries waked me at 5. At x / 2 p. 7 
went with him and his son in their one-horse phaeton, 
to Drottningholm. A very beautiful ride ; cross four 
large bridges. Madame D. went last evening with 
Mr. de Castre. At 1 1 went to witness the service at 
a country church, about \ x / 2 miles from the Palace. 
A neat, pretty, ancient building ; low, arched ; several 
pictures ; a narrow alley through the middle, and seats 
(pews) on each side. The women on the left and men 
on the right ; about an equal number on each side ; 
perhaps 1 50 of each sex. The organ playing when I 
came in, and they were singing a psalm to the tune we 
call Old Hundred. Sacrament day. All partook, 
going up about twenty at a time, men and women 
promiscuously. The priest and his clerk, or cure 1 , 
administered. They all returned very much affected ; 
the women in tears, and many sobbing ; the psalm 

1 Himself, his wife and Madame , widow of the Portuguese consul, but Italian born 

2 Burr almost always uses the grave accent for the acute, when it occurs to him to use any 
accent at all. 

*3S 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

going on all the while. I stood in the isle 1 , no one 
taking the least notice of me. The musa z y the princi- 
pal head-dress of the women. Two very beautiful 
young women, who were near me, in black, the head 
a la mode*. Returned to d'Aries, and we went 
through the garden to see the Palace, he having 
engaged one of the keepers as cicerone*. Just as we 
entered the Palace met Countess Bunge and Comtesse 
Lowenhaupt, Baron Wrangle, Captain Dirden, et al'iJ 
Went all together into the first salle 6 . While I was 
examining a statue, the ladies and their party, with 
our guide, went out, but whither we could not dis- 
cover ; and after half an hour of fruitless search and 
inquiry we returned to the gardens, and to that part 
called Canton ; thence home to dinner at i. Mr. D. 
exceedingly mortified and vexed that our chaperon had 
thus left us in the lurch. He expected several persons 
to dine, but no one of them came. After dinner 
walked to see Madame de Castre and her daughter. 
Both of very pleasant manner. The mother very 
ladylike ; tie Polonaise 1 . Le Mari 8 formerly in the 
orchestra of Gustavus III. Both now enjoying pen- 
sions. M'lle tout plein de talents 9 . Paints in oil in a 
manner to have attracted notice and admiration at the 
exhibition. Pince la barpe superieurement. Danse 
{comme on dit) comme une ange. Vif. enjouee. 18 ; jol. 

1 So in the MS. 

2 For M'issa. Swedish for bonnet, hood. 
j In fashion. 

4 Guide. 

5 For Latin et alii. And others. 

6 Hall, room. 

7 For nee, &c. Polish born. 

8 The husband. 

9 For toute pleine, etc. Very talented. 

136 



Private journal of Aaron Burr . 

taille 1 . At 4 Madame de Castre came to take tea 
with us ; but Madame d'Aries rather presumptuously 
told her we were engaged. She went off and we 

walked out to take tea with Madame ; Madame 

and all the family abroad. Went then to Dr. , 

medecin du Roi 2 , Gustavus IV.; out also ; but an elderly 
lady permitted us to see his pictures. Chez nous at 6. 
Brought Madame de Castre to sup with us. Before 
supper went to the tower ; in ruins ; extensive and 
picturesque views. After supper saw Madame and 
M'lle to chez eux\ There are still a few Russian 
prisoners here ; a small hospital. The situation of the 
Palace and disposition of the grounds very beautiful. 
Profusion of statues, principally bronze and tout nud* 
Everything in decay. Two ladies on horseback. One 
riding aV Angloise, the other en cavalier 5 , with scarlet 
waist-jacket and white overalls, a la Turc ou Perse 6 ; 
very wide ; a round hat with feathers. She had a very 
fine form, and made an elegant appearance. 

12. Couched 12. Lev. at 6. Mr. and Mrs. 
d'A. breakfasted and with their son August set off at 
8 for Stockholm. I breakfasted after they were gone 
and at x / 2 p. 9 set off on foot. A very charming 
promenade, about 6 miles. Rene, sur chem. Paysan. 
Prom, ensem. au boi. un heure. ^ r. d. 7 Arrive at 
home at 12; undressed, lay down, and slept three 

1 Plays the harp in a superior manner. Dances (as they say) like an angel. Animated, 
sprightly (vive, enjouie) ; 18; pretty figure. 

2 Physician of the King. 

g For chex elles. To their home. 

4 Probably for tout a fait nues. Wholly nude. 

5 Trooper fashion, astride. 

6 After the Turkish or Persian fashion (a la turque, etc.). 

7 For Rencontrai sur le chetnin une pajsanne. Promenade ensemble. Au bois une heure. J£ 
rix dollar. Met on the way a country lass. Took a walk together for an hour in the wood; 
y± rix dollar. 

137 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

hours. At 5 to Slade's and Hartshorne's. Y: Hosack 
and Heuland ; chess with Hartshorne ; three games ; 
won two. Tea at 8 pour sou. et din. 1 Note from 
Hedboom to dine on Wednesday, to which agreed. 

13. Couche at ~% p. 12. Lev. at 7. Had 
scarcely got out of bed when la Hanoverienne" men- 
tioned on Saturday came in. Being unable to com- 
municate anything by the ear, we tried, successfully, 
all the other senses. Passed an hour. After breakfast, 
ma bel Mar? came in to try to settle that affair of the 
broken glass. Je voud. mieux that her vis. had been 
defd. till torn, mais el. est si jolie ; 1 r. d. 4 At 1 to 
Dr. Gahn's ; all in the country. At 2 came in Caro- 
lin. Cest trop! Mais 5 / 4 r. d. 5 Couche at 3 and slept 
two hours. Dinner eau et pain. Tea and four eggs 
for supper. Couche at y 2 P- 12. Mais ne saurais 
dormir 6 . Just got asleep at % P- 4 when Hosack 
came and waked me to get his key. I had taken it 
to ensure a sight of him. Got asleep at 5 and slept 

till 9. Waked by Captain H , who came to 

ask me to go on Saturday next to take tea with 

Madame , who had known Bollman 7 and wished 

much to hear of him. I was half asleep and forgot to 
enquire who the lady is and where the acquaintance 
had been made. Before I was dressed came in Berg- 
strom ; agreed to go with him to-morrow to take tea 

1 For pour souper et diner. For supper and dinner. 

2 For la Hanovrienne. The Hanoverian woman. 
j For ma belle Marie. 

4 I should prefer (je voudrais mieux) that her visit had been deferred till to-morrow. But 
she is so pretty ; i rix dollar. 

5 It's too much ! But 6 / 4 rix dollars. 

6 But cannot sleep. 

7 Dr. Erich Bollman, a German, who had distinguished himself by a gallant attempt to 
rescue Lafayette from his prison at Olmiitz, and who was one of Burr's most trusted confederates 
in the Mexican affair. 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

with Gahn a la campagne 1 . At i called on Madame 
de Castre and daughter, who came yesterday to town. 
Madame seule ; J trappar up 1 . A bust of M'lle by 
Bustrom, extremely well executed. Madame took me 
to see Bustrom (and his attelier), who lives under the 
same roof one story higher, that is, in what we should 
call the fifth story. The apartments of Madame in 
the fourth are very handsome. Bustrom was out and 
his rooms locked. M'lle came ; a landscape painted 
by her, very pretty and showing much talent. The 
coronation is postponed till the first week in July, that 
it may be the more brilliant. Mr. de Castre had 
this morning an interview with the King, who sent for 
him to solicit him to take part in an opera to be given 
on the occasion. Note : The opera-house has been 
shut since the majority of Gustavus IV., and Mr. de 
Castre has been sixteen years out of practice. Nean- 
moins, pour fair e plaisir a sa M? he will attempt. It is 
not impossible nor altogether improbable, that we may 
have a Russian audience; for news was yesterday received 
that the Russian forces on this side of the Gulf of Both- 
nia had advanced very rapidly. Yet all here is placid, 
though they are not more than ten or twelve days' 
march from Stockholm, and neither fortifications nor 
efficient army in the way. Called on Madame Daily, 
who is still in town. She is frightened to death about 
the Russians. The Russian soldiers! It is the uni- 
versal opinion that, if they come, there will be general 

1 In the country or at the country house. 

2 Swedish. Three nights up. (3 trappor upp.) 

} Nevertheless, to please his Majesty (a Sa Majesti). 

l 39 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

plundering and ravishing. At 2 dressed for dinner 
and went to Hedboom's. All locked fast ; not even a 
servant. Tried every door, and made a great deal of 
noise to no effect. Strange ! At length discovered 
from a family on the next floor that Mr. H. and 
family lived at some distance, where it is expected that 
I am to dine. About two miles off. Went to hire a 
boat. Asked i rix dollar, which I refused to give. 
Came home at 4, and took bread and milk at 6. At 
x / 2 p- 7 went to the concert, a la Bourse 1 , where I had 
engaged to meet Madame de Castre et M'lle. The 
concert began at 6, and was more than half done when 
I came in. There was, I believe, more than one 
thousand persons, among them the Queen and the 
Princess Sophia. Heard three pieces, in one of which 
" God Save the King " was introduced. The last piece 
was accompanied by the voice of Mr. de Castre, who 
has sung here for thirty years. His voice is yet well 
preserved and really fine. I have great sensibility to 
music, but no science. Every part was executed 
extremely to my satisfaction ; but what most interested 
me was the perfect attention, and the uncommon degree 
of feeling exhibited by the audience. I have nowhere 
witnessed the like. Every countenance was affected 
by those emotions to which the music was adapted. 
In England you see no expression painted on the 
visage at a concert. All is sombre and grim. They 
cry bravo! bravissimo ! z with the same countenance 
that they " God damn " their servants and their gov- 



1 At the Exchange. 

2 Superlative of bravo. 



I4O 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

ernment. Acerbi is wrong in asserting that les Suedoises 1 
have no sensibility to music. The crowd was so great 
that I could not get sight of the de Castres ; but 
passing their quarters just as they drove up to the 
door, went in and sat a few moments. Was introduced 
to Mr. de Castre, whom I had not before seen, nor 
did I suspect, till then informed, that it was he who 
sang, not having seen him while singing. They 

engaged me to tea on Friday to meet Baron , 

Grand Seigneur et fort riche, demeurant en Scanie z . 
Home at 10. Read an hour in Captain Barrie Saint 
Venan's book "Des Colonies Modernes sous la Zone Tor- 
ride, par -ticulierement St. Domingo 1 ." Imp. Paris : 1802. 
Mange un morceau de soup} chex Madame D. 4 

15. Couche iy 2 . Slept sound till p. La Han- 
overrienne attandoit s ; 1 ^ rix dollars. At 1 1 called on 
Baron Munck. Spent an hour in trying to find 
Catteau without success. Ordered a bath at 3. II y 
a rien qui me etab. apres trop de muse comme le bain 
chaud 6 . Called at Hartshorne's ; found him and 
Hosack at chess ; Heuland and Slade spectators. 
Brought Hosack home to settle for our two weeks' 
rent with d' Aries ; paid 14 rix dollars. Hosack gave 
notice that he should leave his quarters to-morrow 
etant mecontent de son demeure coeleste. 7 He is in the 
fifth story. An bain a trois h. Tout pret. Reste dedans 

1 For les Suedoises. The Swedish women. 

2 Great lord, very rich and residing in Skane (an old province of Sweden at its southern 
extremity). 

3 "• Modern Colonies in the Torrid Zone, especially St. Domingo." Printed, etc. (imprim'e). 

4 Ate a bite of supper at Madame D.'s. (Mangeai.) 

5 For attendant. Was waiting. 

6 There is nothing that restores me after too much muse as does the hot bath. (77 ny a 
rien qui m y etablit^etc.) 

7 For etant mecontent de sa demeure celeste. Being dissatisfied with his celestial abode. 

I 4 I 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

un heure. Tres refraichi. Le dem. qui me servait atten- 
dait que , &V. Mais non. Pai. pr. bain i rix ; a dem. 
y 2 rix. Chez moi at 5. £« chem. suiv. la plus belle 
animal que j'ai vu en Suede. Ignore son nom. Mais nous 
saur 1 . Bergstrbm had promised to walk with me to 
Gahn's country house, but came not ; went seul at 6, 
the distance two and a half English miles ; walked it 
in ^ hour. A very Romanesque and retired position. 
Lake Shreame, locks, hills, meadows, magnificent 
forest ; on the opposite side of the lake, pretty, neat 
country houses. T: The family and four or five 
others whose names I did not learn. Prie a soupe mais 
ne veu. pas z . After tea, walked home. Stopped x / 2 h. 
on the way to listen to the band of music. Home at 
x / 2 p. 9. Undressed, being tout mouille 1 with the exer- 
cise. Morceau de soupe av. 4 Mr. and Madame d'A. 
16. Couche at 12. Slept sound till 8. It must 
be the milk or omitting tea which produces this extra- 
ordinary sleep. Rained hard, which prevented me 
from going out. Read in Barre de Venant's book. 
Cleared up at 1 . Walked an hour sans accident ; got 
very warm ; changed. Milk and bread for dinner. 
This diet agrees with me exceedingly. Chessed. At 
6 to Hartshorne's ; all out. " Parlezvous francoise?" 
"Pas un mot" in very perfect French. "Adieu, 

1 For Au bain a trois heures. Tout frit. Reste dedans une heure. Tres rafraichi. La 
demoiselle qui me servait attendait que, etc. Mais non. Paid four bain I rix dollar; a demoi- 
selle % rix dollar. Chex moi at 5. En chemin suivis le flus bel animal [feminin] que j'ai vu 
en Suede. Ignore son nom, mais nous saurons. To the bath at 3 o'clock. All ready. Remain 
in it one hour. Very much refreshed. The girl who waited on me expected that, etc. But 
no ! Paid for the bath 1 rix dollar; y z rix dollar to the girl. At home at 6. On the way 1 
followed the finest she animal that I have seen in Sweden. Don't know her name, but we'll 
find it out. 

2 Invited to supper but don't want to [go] . ( Ne veux fas.) 

3 Quite wet. (Alouille). 

4 Bit of supper with. 

142 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

M'lle." 1 At 7 to tea chez de Castre. Y : The Baron 
Krame, arr. de Scanie z , de bon sens et bonte ; Chev. 
Fauvelet emig.fr. 60; Mr. Passi, 19, nev. de Desguil- 

lon, tres fort snr le piano ; Mr. , sectr. du roy 

Gus. IV.; M'e et M'lle d'C; Mr. et M'e d'Ar. 
Mus., chant, dans, cartes, excellent soupe 1 . Home at 
x / 2 p. 12. Mr. de Castre is deemed the first singer in 
Sweden. M'lle pince le harpe superieurment. Elle 
dansait le schawl ; tres jolie ballet*, which she executed 
better than I have ever seen. The evening very 
pleasant. La comtesse. Couche at y 2 P- i- 

17. Couche at ^ p. 1. Lev. at T / 2 p- 4- Tro. 
soupeK Walked out an hour and on my return got 
breakfast about 6. Had two hours in the library in 
" Les Monuments Antiques Expliques par la Mythologies 
par Alexandre Lenoir. En forme de Dictionaire avec 
gravures en forme de dictionaire b . Vol. 1. Paris: 1806. 
A voluminous work. At 10 Professor Arnt came in 
and sat an hour. Much distressed at the prospect of 
affairs in his country (Germany). Agrees that the 
nobility is rotten and worthless ; would have no hered- 
itary nobles. Slept two hours ; walked one ; took my 
milk and bread at 3. Read a ridiculous roman fr. 
" Gaudriole, 7 ' conte par 1 M. D. Paris: 1806. 168 

1 "Do you speak French?" "Not a word," in very perfect French. (But Burr's 
French is far from perfect. Should be " Parlex-v ous fran^ais ? " etc.) "Adieu, Mad- 
emoiselle." 

2 For arrive de Scanie. Arrived from Skane. 

3 Having good sense and kindness; Chevalier Fauvelet, French emigrant, aged 60 ; Mr. 

Passi, 19, nephew of Desguillon ; very expert on the piano ; Mr. , secretary of King 

Gustavus IV.; Madame and Mademoiselle d'C; Mr. and Madame d'Ar. Music, singing, 
dancing, cards, excellent supper. 

4 She danced the shawl dance; very pretty ballet. 

5 Too much supper. (Trop de souper, or 7" at trop soupe.') 

6 " The Ancient Monuments Explained by Mythology," by Alexander Lenoir. In dic- 
tionary form with engravings. (Burr's repetition is probably unintentional.) 

7 A ridiculous French romance, " Gaudriole," related by (conte or conte). 

143 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

pages. Laughed half a dozen times at the most 
puerile and unmeaning nonsense. Called on Madame 
de Castre ; met her going out and walked with her a 
few minutes. She goes this afternoon to Drottning- 
holm, where I am to see her on Monday P. M. 
Captain Weidenhjolm called at 6 to escort me to the 
Helvigs. Raining hard ; we took coach. Met there 
Baron Helvig, Madame and two souers 1 ; Comtesse 
Posse and Comtesse Hamilton, both very handsome ; 
two gentlemen whose names I did not recollect. 
Foster came in after tea. Came off at 9 sans adieu*. 
It was expected that I should stay to supper, but I had 
resolved not on that sort of invitation. M'e H. est 
liter aire, gai, aimable, peut. 32 ; 1 enf.; le garcon, who is 
the younger, perfectly beautiful ; sa souer la plus grande, 
has a very interesting physiog. Toutes deux paint in a 
very superior style in oil ? . 

18. Couche at 12. Lev. at 8. Slept the whole 
time sound. Raining. Read till 12. Dressed and 
walked to Professor Gahn's country house, about two 
and a half miles. Found there a large circle. Baron 
(General) Cronstedt (brother of him of Calberg) et ux.; 
she had just performed a journey by land with her 

three children from Tornea through Finland to 

and thence across the gulph 4 to Stockholm ; a cheerful, 
pleasing woman ; la belle Comtesse Lowenhaupt, to 
whom je feroit I'amJ ; M'lle Hoschell, la charmante 

1 For soeurs. Sisters. Burr generally misspells this word. 

2 Without saying good-by. 

j Madame H. is literary, mirthful, amiable, perhaps 32; two children; the boy, etc.; his 
sister, the taller, has, etc. Both of them paint, etc. 

4 So in the MS. Old-style spelling. 

5 The pretty Countess L. to whom I [fain] would make love [jeferais volontiers I' amour], 

144 



Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

boiteuse 1 , who plays on harp tre. superieurment ; Colonel 
Gahn, — we barely saluted and did not speak afterward, 

est drole z ; M'e , fern, du juge et souer cadet te de 

Hoschell ; bien belle et int er ess ante ; douce, plein a n am\ 
A very pleasant day. Came off at 9, declining to stay 
to supper. Dr. Gahn showed me his ice-house built 
above ground. Two walls or houses of wood about 
eighteen inches apart filled in with charcoal. Home 
at 10. Read various nonsense two hours. Mem.: 
Baron Munck's servant called this morning with a 
verbal message from le Baron and la Baronne with 
tickets of entrance and inviting me and Hosack to dine 
and pass the day at Haga. We were engaged. 
Hosack did not go to G.'s on account of the rain. 

19. Couche at ]/ 2 p. 12. Lev. at y 2 p. 8. Slept 
like a log the whole time. Was to have called on Dr. 
G. at his house in town at 10, but did not go there till 
11. He had waited and gone. Spent an hour hunt- 
ing for Catteau's without success. Roved about for 
two hours sans acrid*. Home at 3. Milk and brotK 
for dinner. At 5 set off to walk to Drottningholm, 
the rain notwithstanding, having a good pr. de bottes 6 
and a large umbrella. Walked it in two hours, being 
about 6^2 miles ; raining great. At the bridge was 
overtaken by young de Castre (le menuisier) 1 who was 
returning from town in cabriole (cart). Got in ; my 

1 The charming lame girl. 

2 Probably c\st drole. It is queer ! 

5 Madame , wife of the judge and younger sister of Hoschell. Very fine looking 

and interesting. Sweet, full of friendship (amitie), or love (amour). 

4 For sans accident. 

5 The spelling of the German word for bread, but it is probably a misspelling of the 
Swedish word br'id. 

6 For faire de bottes. Pair of boots. 

7 The carpenter. 

J 45 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

coat rubbing on the wheel and all mud, which with 
the aid of the two maids at Drottningholm washed off. 
Sent out for sugar, coffee, bread, and a pipe ; not one 
of these articles to be had. Consoled myself with a 
little skimmed milk and warm water and at 9 went to 
de Castre's. Recu Ires gracieusement. Supped on 
philibonka 1 . Home at y p. 10. Couche at y p- n- 
20. Slept sound till 9 ! This must be the milk 
diet which produces such inordinate sleep. Dressed and 
sent out again for the materials for breakfast. Madame 
de Castre met the servant, saw her basket, and came 
over herself for me to tell me that it was vain to try- 
to get a breakfast for me there and that hers was wait- 
ing for me. I was then al fresco 1 . Made myself up, 
went over, and found an excellent breakfast. The 
family had breakfasted about four hours before. At 
y 2 p. 1 1 Madame and M'lle de Castre went with me 
to see the Palace. The wackmyster 7 " attended us, and we 
passed two hours in going through the rooms. Not so 
extensive as the chateau in Stockholm, but the pictures 
mieux c/ioisies 4 . I could pass four hours a day there for 
a month, with pleasure, to examine the pictures and 
statues. Of the latter, however, not many. Returned 
at y p. 1. Went to my inn at D. to repose and f urn.* 
Returned to dine at y p. 1. After dinner, coffee. 
All went to D. at 6. Mr. and Madame D. had just 



I Filbunke is a wholesome summer dish in Scandinavia and Northern Europe in general. 
Sweet milk is left to sour in a dish specially made for the purpose. Cream settles thick on top. 
Powdered sugar and grated ginger are mixed with it. Then it is eaten with relish. Burr spells 
filbunke in seven different ways, but always incorrectly. 

z Spanish. Literally in the cool, i. e., in undress, not presentable. 

5 For vahtmdstare. Watchman, keeper, porter. 

4 Better selected. 

5 For fumer. To smoke. 



I46 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr. 

arrived from town. At j4 p. 6 commenced my march 
home. The Dev. sent that U. after me ; walked 
together two miles. Ret. en boi ; ^ r. d. 1 Gave the 
wackmr who showed us the Palace half a dollar banco. 
Got home at y 2 p. 9, not at all fatigued. Milk and 
bro. z for supper. Hosack came in at 1 1 and we played 
chess till 1. No letter, not a line from any human 
being nor any other being since I left London. " Ca 
ne vaut rien apres dine. II gate la digestion" 1 . 

21. Couche at 1. Lev. at 10. One sound nap 
again ! Quarrel with the blancbisseur 4 , who carried off 
* * * * anc [ refused to deliver them till I had given 
some handkerchiefs of another person which I never 
saw or had ; so I must either lose my clothes, enter 
into a lawsuit or pay for things I never saw. La vieux 
Anna, too, en mauvaise humeur s . Very cold ; still rain- 
ing, and no wood. Milk and bro. at 4. At 6 called 
on Captain Weidenhjolm ; out. Over to Hedboom's, 
whom I met at his door ; made my apology for failing 
to dine, &c; all settled. En ret rencr. gros. bio. noi. 
che. 30 bel. men. che. mo. 1 r. d. 'Tant pis. 6 Read 
Kant par Villers ; 1 hours. Soup, eau et pain 1 . Couche 
at i/z p. 11. 

11. Couche at Y / 2 p. 11. Was waked by a great 
knocking at my door at y z P- 9- Heard the voice of 

1 The devil sent that jungfru (maid) after me. Walked together two miles. Returning, in 
the woods; % rix dollar. (En retourant, en bois.) 

2 For br'id. Bread. 

j That's no good after dinner. It hurts digestion (gate). 

4 The launderer; possibly meant for the laundress. If so, it should be blanchisseuse. The 
text is partially undecipherable. We should be glad to know what the launderer carried off ! 

5 Old Anna, too, in bad humor. (La vieille Anna). 

6 For En retournant rencontrai une grosse blondine. Cheveux noirs; 30; belle. [La\ menai 
chex. moi. 1 rix dollar. Tant pis. On returning I met a big, fair complexioned woman with 
black hair. Age 30. Fine looking. Took her to my room. I rix dollar. So much the 
worse ! 

7 Bread and butter for supper (souper). 

H7 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

la bel. Marie, but did not answer. Got up, however, 
and breakfasted at ^ p. 10. At 12 came into the 
library Lilly de Castre. Sor. at 1 to Catteau's, with 
whom sat an hour. He is a native of Prussia, where 
his father vient de mourir 1 . II ennuye icf. He is going 
to Berlin in fifteen days, to take possession of his little 
heritage, and thence to Paris. Catteau says this is not 
the country of the Goths, or Ostrogoths, or any Goths ; 
that they all came from Thrace, Asia, Mt. Caucasus, 
&c, and had been, for centuries before the invasion of 
the Roman Empire, coming into Germany ; that the 
Swedish language partakes much of the same origin ; 
that there is no reason to believe that any Swedes went 
south, as far as Italy or France, before the ninth or 
tenth century ; that the application of the term Gotha 
and Ostrogotha to certain parts of Sweden is the error 
and stupidity of the geographers of the Middle Ages ; 
that the Romans knew nothing of the Baltic ; that it 
is not mentioned by any of their writers, and that they 
had no knowledge of Sweden, only that there was a 
country hereabouts which they called Scandinavia ; 
that Teutons or Teutonic is the true term of the origin 
of all the northern nations of Europe, including Great 
Britain ; that the Gaelic (Welsh) is, however, of 
distinct and more remote origin. Met Colonel Gahn ; 
we barely saluted. Called at Dr. G.'s and found him 
at home (in town). He gave me a letter for his friend 
and relation Dr. Frederic Schulzen, of Gothenburg, 
desiring him to take charge of my letters. Not one 



1 Has just died. 

2 For // j 1 ennui e ici. He is bored here. 



148 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

has yet been received, which is suprenante 1 and embar- 
rassing. Going out this morning sui. dem. bi. mis. 
Tour du Konigl Garden. Quit. En ret. renc. enc. Me 
sui. chez mo. 1 r. d. Pa. bl. ni. jeu. T^ant pis encore 1 . 
At 5, milk and bro. The weather has been clear, 
mild, and as pleasant as possible. 

23. Couche at y 2 p. 12. At 9 was waked par 
La HanovJ, who staid an hour. Tres aim. et gent.; rix 4 . 
At 1 walked over to Wennerquiest's to answer his note 
of yesterday inviting Hosack and me to a party Sunday 
evening. W. out ; wrote a note at his desk. Left 
card at Helvig's. Sent another by Hosack to Count 
Cronstedt and another to Laing. Called on Captain 
Weidenhjolm, who was out ; stuck card in his keyhole. 
Home at 1. Read " Troubadours" par Fabre d' 
Olivet. On dit que les Russes ont envoy es passport ■> pour 
un min. Soeudois and that Baron Stedingk pars demainK 
To-day the Austrians are beaten and demolished ; 
yesterday they were victorious. Baron Munck's ser- 
vant came to ask us to dine there to-morrow, to 
which assented. Hosack goes out this evening to 
Professor Gahn's campagne 6 . Milk and brof at 6. At 
8 walked out along the Blass Holmen 8 over the bridge 

1 For turfrenant. Surprising. 

2 For Suivis [une] dame bien mise. Tour du Kongliga Gard. [Elle me] quitta. En 
retournant [la] rencontrai encore. [Elle] me suivit chex, moi. 2 rix dollars. Pas belle ni 
jeune. Tant pis encore. Followed a well-dressed woman. We made a tour of the Royal 
Garden. She got away from me. On the way back met her again. She followed me home. 
2 rix dollars. Neither fine-looking nor young. So much the worse still ! (Konigl Garden 
for Kongliga Djurgard. Royal deer-park. This is a singularly picturesque island of 
Stockholm, nearly the whole of which is occupied by a public park and the summer villas of 
wealthy Stockholmers. It is connected with the rest of the city by bridges.) 

3 For la Hanovrienne. The Hanoverian woman. 

4 For Tres aimable et gent ill e. I rix dollar. Very amiable and pretty. 

5 It is said that the Russians have sent a passport (fassefort) for a Swedish minister (un 
ministre suidois) and that Baron Stedingk leaves to-morrow (part). 

6 Country house. 

7 Notice the umlaut this time, which is an improvement. 

8 For Blasieholmen. 

149 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

to Skeeps Holmen 1 , thence by the public (free) ferry 
to Kongl. Djur Garden, and home by Frederick's 
Hof\ At j4 P- 9> thinking I had need of something 
rafraic hiss ant a cause de, £5iV. J , took tea and two eggs. 
Read Kant and "Troubadours" At 12 Hosack came 
in. We played chess till ^ p. 1 . The tea, the tea! 
24. This is St. John's day, the greatest holiday 
in the year ; formerly celebrated with great military 
and royal pomp, i. e., before Gustavus IV., who 
abhorred anything gay. It is celebrated throughout 

the country as May-day and called . At 10 

last evening the cannon were fired, and, at intervals, 
all night. At midnight, singing and prayers in all the 
churches. The tea which I had so foolishly taken 
kept me awake, and, being utterly indisposed for sleep, 
walked out at ^ p. 2 to see the sun rise, but the sky 
was clouded. At 3 the streets were full of young 
people ; people, indeed, of all ages and sexes, bearing 
green boughs, flowers, little Maypoles very prettily 
ornamented. They had all some good-natured wit at 
me. I retorted, neither comprehending a word, and 
we all laughed. Home at 4. Read the last two vol- 
umes of Emilie de Varmont through in the course of 
the night and morning. Prettily written. At 8 
Hosack came in and soon after I went to bed and 
slept till near 11, and before I was dressed Hosack 

came in with , a very amiable and well-informed 

young Swiss, to make me visit. Sat one-half hour. 



1 For Skeppshoimen. 

2 For Fredrikshof. 

3 Need of something refreshing because of, etc. 



I50 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

At 12 took breakfast. From i to 2, walked to see 
what was doing. Little parties of both sexes every- 
where. Singing, fiddling, dancing, Maypoles. The 
day became fine. At 2 walked with Hosack to Haga 
to dine with Munck. Invited to go with him to his 
campagne, about sixty miles. En famille, Professor Arnt, 
and ourselves. Dinner always good. Greatly pleased 
with my frankness in telling him that a bottle of vin 1 
was bad. Refused to sup. Came off at yi p. 8. 
Walked with Hosack to see some U's z ; out. Home 
at 10. Chess till 12. H. to bed. I had again taken 
both coffee and tea and could not sleep. 

25. Read "Troubadours" till 4. Couche and 
slept sound till waked by la vieux Anna, who came into 
my room apparently full of anxiety and astonished to 
find me in bed. She offers me tea, coffee, eggs, and 
every other thing she could make me comprehend ; all 
which I refused. Got up and dressed and at 3 took 
breakfast. Raining all the morning. They say it is 
always so, both at the summer and winter solstice. At 
6 went out with Hosack to call on the young Swiss 
mentioned Saturday. Sat y 2 hour, and went on to 
Wennerquiest's, about two miles. Hosack, though 
engaged there also, refused to go, so I went alone. 
Found there eight gentlemen, mostly musicians, and a 
pleasant concert. Supper. Very cheerful. He had 
got Davis's " Travels," in which, it seems, you and I 
are mentioned. 

26. Couche at 2. Lev. at x / 2 p. 5. I don't know 



1 Wine. 

2 Jungfrus. 



151 



Private journal of A ar o ?i Burr . 

why, but had slept enough. Dressed. Read a mili- 
tary treatise. At 8, just as I had got breakfast, la bel 1 . 
Mar. came in and staid an hour ; 2 rix dollars. Colonel 

le Chev. , emig. fr z . who had served in America 

with d'Estaing and Bouille and asked an introduction. 
Passed an hour. He was aide-de-camp de Gustavus 
IV. Was imprisoned by him two days before his 
being deposed for having hinted to him that a revolu- 
tion was meditated to dethrone him. At ^ p. 2 took 
pbillibonka 1 with d'Aries pour din. At 3 lay down and 
slept two hours. At 6 walked out to Haga and 
supped with the Munck's. Home at y p. n. 

27. My bed being out of order (epinasses 4 ) I 
slept on sopha 5 in d'A.'s parlour. Couche at y 2 p. 12. 
Lev. at y 2 p. 8. La Hane 6 ; 5 U rix dollars. Breakfast 

at 10. Walked with Madame to see the 

church where the coronation is to be performed. Br. 
and milk at 6. At 7 walked to Liston Hill (Wenner- 
quiest's) to take supper and a bed in conformity with 
his several warm invitations. Found no one at home 
but a servant, who said he could give me nothing to 
drink but small beer and nothing to eat but the bro 
bru 7 ; so left a note for him on his table and walked 
home. 

28. Your picture was opened and put up in my 
parlour about ten days ago. It has been very greatly 



1 For la belle Marie. 

2 Colonel Chevalier , a French emigrant (emigre fran^ait). 

J His second manner of spelling the word. 

4 For punaises. Bugs. 

5 So in the MS. 

6 For la Hanovrienne. 

7 Burr, who spelled all Swedish words phonetically, was very uncertain about the word brad. 
Here in despair he writes two incorrect forms. 



152 



Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr . 

admired, and given occasion to many inquiries. Think- 
ing it had got a little injured, I took it to Breda's to 
ask his advice. He has offered to clean it and put it 
in order. It has suffered no material injury. He 
says that if a picture must be rolled, you must roll it 
the paint outside. I had done the contrary ; but he 
gives me good reasons for his advice. I forget whether 
I told you that Breda is not only the first painter in 
Sweden, but really one who would in any country be 

called great. Madame walked with me to see 

the church where the ceremony of coronation is to be 
performed. Not very spacious, but rich and magnifi- 
cent. Returning, met the herald going round the city, 
and proclaiming at different places the coronation 
intended for to-morrow. He is attended by some 
troops of horse, by trumpeters, &c, in splendid cos- 
tumes. Met Slade, Hosack, and . Agreed to 

meet them at dinner at the Merchants Society at ^ 
p. 2. Went at the hour; a very handsome and 
spacious establishment arranged with perfect conven- 
ience. The dinner and wine very good. I prefer 
this house to that of the Nobles. Baron Armfelt 
(relative of the other General Armfelt heretofore 
mentioned) begged me to sit by him, and he amused 
me much. Says he is 72 ; very sprightly, and has 
been over every part of Europe. On my way home 
met again la pet 1 ., who was mentioned about a month 
ago, (we then met at the puppet show theatre). 
Determined not again to lose so pretty an object, gave 



I For la petite. The little one. 

'53 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

an arm and we walked to my quarters ; 5 / 4 rix dollars. 
Speaks a little French, sings very pretty and dances. 
General Helvig's card left here to-day. Took tea at 
10. 

30. After my tea last evening I began to reflect 
on the folly, and took twelve drops of laudanum, more 
than I ever before took at a dose, to balance the tea. 
Read till T / 2 p. 1 and lay down, but no sleep. At 3 
(sunrise) the day was ushered in by the firing of can- 
non. Gave up the business of sleep, and got up and 
dressed at 4. Got breakfast by 6, and called Hosack to 
aid me to get the paraphernalia for the day, viz., hat 
and sword. Yesterday Baron Munck wrote me a note, 
enclosing tickets, and telling me how to get introduced. 
Went to his room at x / 2 p. 8, where took another 
breakfast of mutton-chop, wine, &c. At *^ P- 9 ne 
took me to the room of the grand maitre de ceremonie 1 ; 
there another breakfast, chocolate, wine, cake, &c, of 
which partook. At 10 we went to the church. Had 
a very convenient seat. The public dinner at x / 2 p. 6. 
Got home from the church at 3. Took m'djlk 1 and 
bru for dinner. Got home from seeing the royal 
family dine at 8. Took some weak tea and went by 
appointment to Jacobi's at 10. Out ! 

Stockholm, July 1, 1809. Couche at y 2 p. 11 
and slept one sound nap till y 2 p. 7. At 12 to 
Breda's (he has a charming collection of paintings) to 
see about the picture and get my chessmen painted ; 
that is, the heads of the bishops and knights. Breda 



1 Grand master of ceremonies. 

2 For mjolk. Swedish word for milk. 



!54 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

was engaged painting the Countess of . Did 

not see him, but his wife and son received me civilly 
and would have called him but I forbad 1 . To Wen- 
nerquiest's ; out. Home at i. MojIk z and bru at 4. 
Called at Professor Gahn's at 7 ; out. Home at 8. 
Madame d'A. sent me down some fi Hi bonk a*, on which 
I supped. 

2. Couche at 12. Lev. at 8. Auguste waked 
me by appointment to go to the silk manufactory, but 
we went not. At x / 2 p. 9 took Auguste under my 
protection and went to Munck's at the Chateau to 
view the procession and homage from his windows. 
Found there Baron Armfelt and his two sons (13 and 
15) ; Professor Arnt, and several others of both sexes. 
The show most magnificent and in the most perfect 
taste. The site most happily chosen ; perhaps no city 
in the world affords so fine a Place'' for such a purpose. 
Came off at x / 2 p. 1, though I believe it was intended 
I should dine there. Walked about an hour to see 
the crowds of all sorts. Home x / 2 p. 2. Read in 
"Anecdotes of the Court of Sweden," anonymous, two 
hours. Fillibonka at 5. Dressed and went to Hel- 
vig's, being Madame's evening ; out, all. Left card. 
Over to Merchants Society where read the English 
papers an hour. No one of my acquaintance. Home 
at 9. Two eggs, Bro. and smor 5 > water and sugar pour 
soup 6 . Read two hours "Le Voyage au Nor d par deux 

1 So in the MS. 

2 Notice the variations of spelling in this word and the word for bread. 

3 A third misspelling of the word. 

4 For French place. Square. 

J For sm'ir. Swedish for butter. 
6 For pour souper. For supper. 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Francois" 1 . La pet. Louis, devait sy rendre a j h. 
Mais ne vin. pas z . 

3. Couche at ii 1 /^. Lev. at % Y / 2 . You see I 
have got up to 8 again. At 10 came in Hosack. He 
had been last evening to a bal 1 at the Park Djurgarden. 
1 1 un dame pari 't fr. et ang. Spirituelle, &c. Sur le 
champ entroit Jacobi. Then Capt. Weidenhjolm, then 
Bergstrom. Tous s 'occupaient beaucoup de la dame qui 
pretendoit s amuser dans la biblioth. Restaient un heure. 
M'e part 4 . Gave Jacobi a card for Mr. Becker and 

another for le Juge s which he promised to 

transmit. Weidenhjolm says I must have mistaken 
the trappur upp 6 at Helvig's ; that they were certainly 
at home. Received invitation from Comte and 
Comptesse Cronstedt to dine and sup jeudi 6 Juliet 7 ; 
now as jeudi is the 7th and not the 6th, what is to be 
done ? Wrote, however, that would come Thursday 
jeudi prochain % . Raining all the forenoon. Afternoon 
clear and fine. Read Varia?. At 7 walked by the 
long bridge and Skeeps Holmen ; thence boat, the 
free ferry, to Djurgarden and au 10 park, intending to 
pass the evening at Wennerquiest's. Just before I got 
there, met Jacobi, who enticed me to return to the 
Merchants Society to play chess and sup. On the 

1 " Journey to the North by two Frenchmen" (Francois). 

2 For La petite Louise devait s'y rendre a trois heures, mail ne vint fas. Little Louise was 
to be there at J o'clock, but didn't come. 

3 A ball. 

4 At II came in an intellectual lady speaking French and English. Immediately Jacobi 
entered, then Captain Weidenhjohm, then Bergstrom. All paid a good deal of attention to the 
lady, who pretended to amuse herself in the library. They remained an hour. Madame left 
(partit). , 

5 The judge. 

6 See Glossary. 

7 Thursday, the 6th of July (Juillet). 

8 Next Thursday. 

9 Various things. 
10 To the. 

156 



Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr . 

way met and sat some time with two U's. One jo.; 
nom encor 1 . Played chess and supped. Hosack joins 
us. Supper and a bottle Moselle wine ; i rix dollar 
chaque 1 . Home at n. Mem.: Dined on fillibonka 
at 5. 

4. Couche at 1. Lev. at 9. Breakfast at 10. 
Hosack came in ; begins to demeuble 1 , having taken a 
room au* park, near Wennerquiest's. At 1 1 walked 
out with Auguste to manf. de soye to order bas s . To 
Wennerquiest's ; find mats occupe 6 ; not bear telling 
about my visit on Tuesday evening. To Breda's to 
see about your picture. Nothing yet done ; but his 
son promises to do it and I am sure he will. The 
chessmen done. Home at y 2 p. 1. Wrote to Dr. 
Frederic Schulzen, Goteborg, to take up my letters, 
if any, and transmit them. Wrote Catherine enclosing 
the letter to Dumont. Hartshorne and Slade set off 
for Petersburg to-day at 2 P. M. At 4 fillibonka for 
dinner. At 5 came in Bergstrom by appointment to 
walk. To Catteau's to leave my letter. To post- 
ofBce. Paid for the letter to Goteborg, 5^ sch. ; a 
treble letter. Bon marc he 1 . (A new figure in the 
drama. B. chant, parte tr. bi.fran. et un p. ang. mais nous 
en dirons plus anon 8 ). Jacobi joined us at the post-office 
and we all went on board a Prussian ship just about to 



1 For two jungfrus. One jolie. [II faut demandcr son\ nom encore. I must ask her name 
again. 

2 Each. 

J To unfurnish, i. e., to get things ready for moving (d'emeubler). 

4 At the park or in the park. 

J To the silk manufactory (manufacture de soie) to order stockings (des has). 

6 But he is busy. ( Oceupe.) 

7 Cheap. (Marchi.) 

8 For Belle ; chante ; parle tres bien fran^ais et un peu anglais. Mais nous en dirons plus 
anon. Fine looking. Sings. Speaks French very nicely and English a little. But we'll tell 
more about her presently. 



157 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

sail for Pillau ; have a great mind to go on her. A 
great levee (to which I did not go) at the Palace to- 
day, 7 P. M. The trouble of dressing and the fatigue 
of standing prevented ; besides if his Majesty wants 
me, let him invite me. Met Monsieur Warrendorf 
who urged me very much to go. A stupid blunder ; 
Mrs. Brooks and not Madame Baker was the lady for 
whom the card was intended ; of the other I know 
nothing. She was astonished at the card. Went at 
12 to-day and left one for Madame Brooks. Read 
this morning "Playdoyers et Jugement entre un Perro- 
quet, un Chat et un Chi en." Ass ex ridicule et bien fait 
pour fair e rire 1 . 

5. As I was writing you last night, I stopped to 
hunt for the plays I had read, that I might give them 
their titles. It happened that the first thing I laid 
hands on was "Les Mines de Pologne" melodrame en 
prose 2 , par Guilbert Pixerecourt, which I had not 
before read. It is very long. One paragraph led to 
another. I read it through. It was then 1 o'clock in 
the morning. Being too late to write, went to bed. 
This melodrama would make a splendid and interesting 
pantomime. The incidents and scenery extremely well 
imagined for stage effect. ^La Vie de Chev" ; Faublas, 
eight volumes duodecimo ; a nouvelle*. Well written, 
rather free and in the manner of Crebillon^/j 4 . Read 
only the last volume. The denouement* is a very 

1 " Pleadings and Judgment between a Parrot, a Cat and a Dog." Quite ridiculous and 
bound to cause laughter. 

2 " The Polish Mines " ; a melodrama in prose. 

3 " The Life of Chev " ; etc., a novel. 

4 Crebillon the younger, or junior. 

5 The final unraveling of the plot (denouement or dinoument). 

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Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

incongruous medley, and to me shocking and disgust- 
ing. "Choir Gaure" the Grand Orrery of the Ancient 
Druids, commonly called Stonehedge, by Dr. John 
Smith, 1 77 1, an extremely ingenious work. These 
last are now mentioned, though read some days ago. 
At 5 went on board a Prussian ship just about to sail 
for Pillau. Have a great mind to go in her. Was 
rowed by two boys, one a Swede about 15, perfectly 
beautiful, gay, frank, animated ; is a sailor at 6 rix 
dollars per month. Speaks English. Strong affection 
for his mother, with a laudable pride and ambition. 
At 7 walked down to Wennerquiest's, having under- 
stood that his weekly parties are altered from Sunday 
to Wednesday. Found there three or four gentlemen 
sitting with him in the bower, drinking toddy. 
Hosack came in. At about sunset (9 o'clock) they 
went off one after another, except H. and myself. 
We rose to go. Wennerquiest said he could give us 
no supper, his housekeeper being in town ; but offered 
to go and sup with us at a tavern, which we declined. 
Note : He has lived several years in England ! Home 
by a most beautiful path through the woods and along 
the lake. 

6. Couche at 12. Rose at 6 by force of being 
waked by my vielle 1 Anna, as per order. Breakfast 
y 2 p. 7. Sor. at 8 to Bergstrbm's, whom I found in 
bed, to remind him of Catteau's book. To Jacobi's ; 
in bed, to see about a passage to any port S. side of 
Baltic. To Captain Weidenhjolm's to settle a time 

I The writer is improving. He is now within one letter of the correct feminine form of the 
word. It should be vieille. 

l 59 



Private J our n a I of Aaron Burr . 

for visiting the foire 1 and to advise about the Helvigs. 
Read two hours and dressed for dinner. At i took 
boat to go to Calberg; 28 sch. rixelf 1 . We were 
thirty at table. Two Count Constredts etuxs}\ M'lle 
Lowenhaupt et frere Major L. ; the whole family and 
connections of Gahn's, including the Colonel. The 
Colonel and I just nodded to each other. After din- 
ner came in Count Falkenberg et ux.; a very fine 
woman ; has been about three years married. Poi. 
cTen/S The Temple in the Woods (eight pillars). 
Lowenhaupt sang a great deal ; charming voice. Party 
on the water; ramed s par Lowenhaupt. Mrs. Gahn's 
present. Les fleurs. Les souvenirs 6 . "Don't forget 
me." A very cheerful day. Walked home and arrived 
at y 2 p. 11. There are many pretty little incidents this 
morning and evening which will take some hours to 
tell. I omit them all. I ought to have mentioned 

Mr. , uncle of Dr. G., a very sprightly, cheerful 

man of 77 who has an office in the Department of 
Finance and has written a book on the subject. Mr. 
Poppius is in the judiciary ; both intelligent and com- 
municative and of course interesting acquaintances for 
me. , M'lle la Baronne de Charlotte Heikenskjold 
came in this morning and we passed an hour in the 
library. 

7. Couche at Y / 2 P- 1 (was obliged to sit up late, 
having supped, &c). Rose at 7. At 9 called on 
Weidenhjolm, who proposes to go with me to the 

1 Fair, market. 

2 See Glossary. 

} And wives. He pluralizes ux. The full form is uxores. 

4 For Point d' enfants. No children at all. 

5 From French word ramer. To row. A hybrid verb made by the writer. 

6 The flowers. The souvenirs. 

l60 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

minister Monday morning. On Jacobi to engage him 
to call on me at 10, which he did. Charlotte H. came 
in before him ; she and la pet 1 . Sang several songs. 
Charlotte plays offhand anything you give her, though 
she may never before have seen it. Found in the 
library a book of Scotch and English songs of which 
she played several. At i set off to walk to Dr. 
Gahn's to dine. Stopped often on the way and arrived 
at y 2 p- 2. T: The family ; his youngest son, too, 
who arrived some days ago from Upsala where he is 
at college ; Poppius et ux. and two souers ; Colonel G. 
Dinner simple. Un ver de V. z The hay harvest ; 
four men to mow three acres in a day, but took nearly 
one and a half days, being from 3 A. M. to 7 P. M. 
Gages*, 30 sch. per day and trinka 4 . Five women to 
rake. Soupe. Point de Vi. s Off at 10. Arrived at 
Calberg, met there Lowenhaupt. Her two uncles and 
aunts just returning from Drottningholm. Walked 
and caused % hour. Un secret. Un billet pour le roi 
et la reine. 17th inst. Lowenhaupt y demeurait 6 . 
Chez moi at 1 1 . 

8. Couche at 1. Rose at 7. Called on Jacobi 
at 8. Found him abed. At 10 came in la Baronne 
Charlotte. Has a very fine voice. She and our little 

sang a great deal for me. Jacobi came in to 

confer about modes of traveling through Europe. At 
12 to Wennerquiest's ; in the country. To Baron 

1 For la petite. The little one. 

2 For un verre de vin. One glass of wine. 

3 Wages. 

4 For dricha. Home-brewed ale or beer was provided for the harvesters. 

5 For Soupe, Point de vin. Supper. No wine at all. 

6 Walked and chatted [a hybrid verb from French causer, to chat] a quarter of an hour. A 
secret. A note for the King, etc. Lowenhaupt remained there. 

l6l 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Munck au chateau}; he is at Haga. To Dr. Gahn's ; 
not in town. To Breda's. T: La Comtesse sitting 
for her picture. She consented that I should be 
admitted. A very cheerful, well-bred old lady. 
Mother of Baron Wrangle, whom I meet so often chez 
Madame Lbwenhaupt. Nothing yet done to your 
picture, except putting it in a frame. At 5 fillibonka. 
At 7 to Helvig's. Met there le Genl. et ux. et souer 
cadette just going out. They insisted upon my going 
in to take tea, &c, and I on walking out with them, 
in which I prevailed. Walked over the long bridge, 
over Skeeps Island 2 , thence by boat to Djurgarden, 
and so on to the park. Up the rocks ; interesting 
views. Waffen^ socre and svaatrinka at the little red 
wdrdshuset 1 . Animated debate about the condition 

and deportment of women. Thought M'lle 

beautiful ; eyes like K. Returned to their door at 10 ; 
refused to go in ; bon soir. Home and supped on 
three eggs, which was unnecessary. I am better sans 
soupe 4 . Settled this morning with d' Aries for three 
weeks including this day, at 3^ rexelt per week ; 10^ 
rexe/t. 

9. Couche at 1. Lev. at 7. La soup} ne vaut 
nen. Lourd 5 . Read till 4 P. M., not going out nor 
seeing a soul. At 4 came in Hosack. Dressed to 
call on Poppius. Hosack goes to Dr. G.'s to sup. 
Captain Weidenhjolm came in at }4 p. 6, and sat two 

1 At the castle. 

2 Skeppsholmen. 

5 Fatten, socier and svagdricla at the little red vdrdshus. Water, sugar and small beer at 
the little red tavern. 

4 Without supper. 

5 Supper is no good ! Heavy, dull. 

l62 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

hours and a half. To Poppius's ; out. Left cards 
and walked on to Haga. Baron Munck gone to his 
campagne ; a fortnight ago he invited me to go with 
him, but went without thinking of me. Madame la 
Bar., sa niece 1 and Professor Arnt. Supped at 10. 
Beaucoup bu z , Arnt walked with me home. Took 
circuit through the Calberg woods to avoid the dust, 
which is excessive. The marangais 1 at Haga ! 
Hosack came in just after I arrived and after half an 
hour went out to his home. Read " Minuit" comedie 
en un act 'e, par Desandras 4 ; Paris : 1798 ; pretty little 
bagatelle; " Le Droit du Seigneur' 1 ;'''' com. en J actes, 
par M. Desfontaines, 1783; a very dull thing; the 
music and scenery may have helped it out. 

10. Couche at 1. Lev. at 6. Called on Jacobi 
at 9. At 10 M'lle Silversparri (not so spelled, how- 
ever), dame d'honner b ; dit la mielleur voix de Stockholm 7 ; 
but Weidenhjolm coming in to go to the mint, had 
no opportunity to hear M'lle sing. To the mint. T: 
Mr. Hjelm, who being exceedingly occupied and hav- 
ing had no notice begs us to call to-morrow. Return- 
ing, called at Gahn's ; out. To Wennerquiest's to 
get some English book to read with Lbwenhaupt. 
Found him in his contoir % very busy ; asked to see his 
library ; he said the key was upstairs and begged me 
to appoint another day ! How ridiculous and rude ! 

I For la Baronne, sa niece. 

1 For beaucoup hu. Having drunk much. 

3 Probably for marangouins [or maringouins]. Mosquitoes. 

4 " Midnight," a comedy in one act by Desandras. 

5 " The Lord's Right." 

6 For dame cV honneur. Maid of honor. 

7 Said to be the best voice (la meilleurc voix) of Stockholm. 

8 For comftoir. Counting-house. 

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Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Hosack had appointed to call at i, but came not at 
all. To Jacobi's ; out. Fillibunc 1 at 4. At 6 to 
Calberg ; all out. 'Tis court day, which I did not 
know. Left card, and also one for General Comte 
Cronstedt, who has rooms with his brother. Went on 

to Dr. Gahn's. T: The family and Madame , 

niece of the old gentleman who has written on finance. 
Sangaree and cakes, and after an excellent supper, the 
first green peas I have seen, returned his Scala of 
Thermom'r, which I had copied, and got from him 
H. Gahn's letter. Engaged his youngest son, who is 
student at law, to call on me Wednesday to inform 
me about judicial proceedings. Off at y 2 P- 10. 

Escorted Madame as far as Calberg, where 

she took boat. Home at y 2 p. 11. The watchmen ; 
their Devil's fork 2 ; their long speech and prayer. 
We always sup without candles, the daylight is so 
perfect at 10 that candles would be ridiculous. Mem.: 
This morning bought a paper of tobacco for 8 sch. 
Voyons^ how long it will last. 

11. Coucbe at 1. Lev. at % p. 7. Expected 
Captain Weidenhjolm to go with me to the mint, but 
he did not come. Sor. at ]/ 2 p. 10. To Captain 
Weidenhjolm's ; out. To Jacobi's ; deposited with 
him the watch ring ! Don't be frightened ; it is only 
to make inquiries, &c. On my way to the mint, rencS; 
5 U rix dollars. Louis Bruman. Got to the mint at 
12. Mr. Hjelm, the director, said he had been ex- 

1 A fourth spelling of the word filbunhe. 

2 Doubtless referring to the pronged weapons which they carried. 
J Let us see. 

4 For rencontrai [une demoiselle]. Met a girl, or [j 'eus une] rencontre. I had a rencoun- 
ter. 

164 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

pecting me since 10 (which, indeed, was the hour 
appointed), and could then pass but a few minutes 
with me. Invited me to come on Friday morning, 
when, he said, the whole will be in operation. Saw a 
common labourer melting gold ; several pounds weight 
of it ; no one to overlook him; all the doors open. 
Home at i. Sor. again. To Mr. Brook's. T : Dr. 

G. (who went out as soon as I came in) and , 

a very handsome young Swede who appeared to be 
very much at home. Sat half an hour. Madame is 
sprightly and the young Swede talkative. To Helvig's ; 
all out. Home at i. Fillibonka at 4. At x / 2 p. 5 
walked out to Calberg ; both families out again. 
Walked directly home. Being warm, after changing 
went to Poppius's. T: Mr. P., Mr. Lary, and 

. Had a long and interesting conversation 

with Mr. P. on law subjects. You will be charmed to 
hear the results of my inquiries on this head. Only to 
think of a people, the most honest and peaceable in 
the world, and not a lawyer ! No such animal, 
(according to English ideas of a lawyer), in Sweden ! 
But again and again I remind you that this Journal is 
only a memorandum to talk from. The most inter- 
esting and amusing incidents are not noted at all, 
because I am sure to remember them. Mr. P. urged 
me to stay to supper, which I declined, though hungry. 
Fraiment\ I was afraid to gener z them, and I mean to 
see Mr. P. very often on law subjects, and Madame 
on other subjects. She is very pretty, speaks French 



1 Truly. 

2 For gener. To incommode them. 



165 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

fluently, and sings charmingly. Home at j4 P- 9- 
Three eggs and svaatrinka 1 for supper. I learn that 
Hosack called this P. M. during my absence. 

1 1. Couche at y p. 12. Lev. at y 2 p. 9. Ayant 
dormi profondement toutes les 9 heures. Bian la vielle 
Anna m appelloit a 6. Je V ai repondu sans rneveiller z . 
Dressed and got breakfast with all possible dispatch 
expecting young Gahn who was to call at 10. Hereuse- 
ment 1 it was near 11 when he called. We went to 
several booksellers, but the laws of Sweden in Latin 
are not to be found. To the post-office ; no letters ! ! 
At 1 called on Jacobi about the ring ; out. On Dr. 
Gahn to get the address of Engerstrbm, — a son excel- 
lence Monr le Baron d'Engerstrbm, principal secretaire 
d'etat pour les affaires etr angers, chevr des ordres 4 . 
Chez moi at 1. Read an hour in Catteau's " Sweden " 
to refresh my memory about the civil administration 
so that I may question all my acquaintances. At y 
p. 3 to some booksellers. At Ulrick's ; sa fille tres jo s . 
Found Bentham's " Principes" 6 . Home at y P- 4- 
Fillibonk 1 pr. dine. Dom. s de Helvig came in to beg 
me to tea and pass the evening. Tres volunt. for M'lle 
Miriam m inter esse beaucoup. Aussi sa soeur, Madame 
H. 9 They both paint in oil and colours in a very 
superior style. Walked with them an hour au jardin 

1 For svagdritia. Small beer. 

2 Bian is for bienque. Having slept soundly the entire nine hours. Although old Anna called 
me at 6, I answered her without waking. (Je lui ai, etc.) 

J Fortunately. 

4 To his Excellency Baron d'Engerstrom, Chief Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs; 
chevalier or knight of the orders. 

5 His daughter, very pretty (jolie). 

6 " Principles." 

7 The fifth mode of spelling the word. 

8 Helvig's servant, (domestique). 

9 Volunt. for volontiers, willingly. Very willingly, for Mademoiselle Miriam interests me 
greatly. Also her sister, Madame H. 

1 66 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

du roy 1 (Vauxhall). Returned to soupe. Tres bi servi. 

Comble honef e. Y: Colonel -; Mr. ; 

Me. , qui poursuit Gam 2 . Home at x / 2 p. n. 

12. Couche at I. Having taken half a dish of 
tea, slept not a wink till past 5. Lev. 9. Young Gahn 
was to have called at 10, but came not at all. Sor. at 1 1. 
To Jacobi's ; got back the ring ; nothing can be done 
with it here. To Ulrick's, bookseller ; bought Ben- 
tham's " Principes," 4*^ rix dollars banco. He took 
in exchange for lyi rix dollars a silly book, " Sur /' 
Imagination 1 " which I foolishly bought on my arrival. 
Home. At 6 went out with Auguste. To Mesarie, 
manufacture de toys. Nothing done. To Wenner- 
quiest's ; out. To Breda's, where passed an hour 
looking at your picture. I was exceedingly struck and 
alarmed to see it pale and faded. Why was not this 
perceivable before ? Perhaps it may arise from being 
placed among his portraits, which are very high col- 
oured. Yet the impression that it is faded is fixed on 
my mind, and has almost made me superstitious. 
Home. Fillibonk at 5. At 6 to Helvig's ; sat an hour ; 
gave to her servant a note to Breda requesting him to 
bring the picture for her inspection. Passed y 2 hour in 
the cabinet of the General H. qui est militaire scientifique*. 
Two telescopes for measuring distances where an 
object of known dimensions (a man for instance) is 
visible. A beautiful invention. Also a watch for 
measuring distances by sound ; the watch gives the 

1 In the Royal Garden. 

2 Returned to supper; very well served. Overwhelmed with courtesy (comble d'honne- 
tete). There were there Colonel ; Mr. ; Madame , who is pursuing Gamp. 

3 " On the Imagination." 

4 Who is a scientific military man. 

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Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

sixtieth part of a second ; every artillery officer is 
obliged to have one. At x / 2 p. 7 to Poppius's. There 
was company ; was much urged to stay to sup, but 
refused, though M'lle Hoschell and Madame Yjarta 
were there and Madame P. is very handsome and ami- 
able. You have before known that I admire M'lle H. 
But my object was to talk law with Mr. P. and he 
was at the card table. Home Y / 2 p. 9. Read " La 
Destruction de la Ligue ou la Reduction de Paris" piece 
national en 4. acts ; a Amsterdam, 1782 1 . This is in 
form a dramatic piece, but has not any dramatic merit 
or character. The author, however, has talents, obser- 
vation, and foresight. It may be read with pleasure 
and approbation. The preface is 45 pages ; the play, 
210 octavo. The author advertises that he should 
shortly publish two other pieces of the same kind — 
"La Mort de Louis XI. , Roy de France" and " Phillippe 
II., Roy d' 'Espagne" z . 

13. (Friday). I must be wrong about the day 
of the month, but that of the week is right. Couche 
at y 2 p. 11. Waked and got up y 2 p. 4, having slept 
enough ; but Som. 1 begged me so much to pass a few 
minutes more with him that I consented ; lay down 
and slept profoundly four hours. Note : It was rain- 
ing very hard. Tojours abattu* after so much sleeping. 
Sor. at 10. To the mint by appointment with the 
director, Mr. Hjelm, who very civilly took me 
through and showed me everything. Nothing very 

1 " The Destruction of the League, or the Reduction of Paris," a national (patriotic) piece 
in four acts ; at Amsterdam, 178Z. 

2 " The Death of Louis XI., King of France," and " Philip II., King of Spain." 

3 For Somnus. Latin for Sleep or the god of sleep. 

4 Always depressed. 

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Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

curious, unless the free manner in which common 
labourers and workmen handle gold and silver in great 
quantities, and yet no fraud has been known. To- 
morrow I am to have coronation medals. To Ulrick's 
to get the books I bought yesterday, he not having 
sent them home. Paid 24 sch. for the Laws of 
Sweden, one small octavo. Home at 12. Then to 

see Hosack at the mineral springs called , about 

two and a half miles. Still raining. Home at 2. 
Hosack came with me to do some commissions for 
me, principally the 6 ducats, but Hedboom could 
not be found. Fillibonk at 4. You can't imagine what 
an epicure I am with my filbonk 1 . At 5 Hosack 
returned and we played chess two hours. Read 
" Kouloup ou les Chinois" opera comique en prose. 3 
actes. Par Guilbert Pixerecourt. La musique par N . 
Dalayrae, memb. de la Legion d'Honneur et dePacad. 
roy. de Stockholm. Imp. et representee a Paris, 1 807 2 . 
The plot is Shakespeare's beggar made king, but with 
different draping calculated for stage effect. Sent by 
Hosack my note to Bergstrom. 

It must be the 15th. By looking back you will 
see where the error began. Couche at \i. Rose at 7. 
At 8 to Bergstrom's to get Catteau's book on Den- 
mark ; to engage him (Bergstrom) to visit the hospitals 
with me. He promises again. Thence home. Hosack 
came in at 9 to breakfast ', as engaged ; no other way 
to make him punctual. After breakfast he and I 

1 This, the sixth mode of spelling the word. Note that he spells it in two different ways in 
two successive sentences. 

2 " Kouloup or the Chinese "; a comic opera in prose, in three acts, by G. P. The music by 
N. D., member of the Legion of Honor and of the Royal Academy of Stockholm. Printed and 
staged (should be imprimi et represent^) at Paris in 1807. 

169 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

played chess and then Hosack went to hunt Hedboom 
about the ducats ; not found. At 4 Bergstrom came 
in with Catteau's book. Went to several booksellers 
this morning, but bought nothing. At 6 to Helvig's. 

Y: A Colonel , speaking English ; that same 

Madame , whom I met there on Wednesday, 

and the beautiful Comtesse Posse. Foster came in. 
All off before 9. I the last and sans soupe. Home, 
eau et br'6\ Read for several days past " Les Oeuvres 
Posthum. de Marmontel ';" 4 vol. duod. sur Metapbysique, 
Grammaire, Logique, Moral*. His style is always 
beautiful and the subjects are treated in a manner new 
and interesting, except the last [moral), in which I find 
nothing remarkable either of idea or manner. The 
d'Aries go this P. M. to Drottningholm. Note : 
The Helvigs engage to meet me at dinner to-morrow 
at the mineral springs au Pare 1 . 

16. Couche at 12. Lev. at 8. Bad again. Sor. 
at 1 1 (though raining) to the Park, three miles ; 
arrived at 12. Passed an hour with Hosack. The 
Helvigs did not come. At 1 set off to walk home ; 
not sorry they did not come pour des raisons 4 of state. 
Home at 2. Bro et mjolk s for "dinner. Read last 
evening : " Les Confidences " 6 , en deux actes, Paris, 1 803. 
A very pretty little bagatelle. This morning "Un Tour 
dejeune Home". Paris: 1802; 1 a.ct(La>la. Has the 
merit of being very short) par F. P. A. Leger et R. 

1 Bread and water. 

2 " The Posthumous Works of Marmontel "; in 4 volumes duodecimo, on metaphysics, gram- 
mar, logic, ethics (should be la morale). 

3 In the park. 

4 For state reasons. 

; Bread and milk. Note how he varies this pair of words. 
6 " The ConBdences." 

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Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Chazet 1 . At 6 walked out to Gahn's ; all out except 
M'lle la gowvernante 1 and my beautiful little Eva, with 
whom played two hours. Passing and repassing Cal- 
berg saw no one at the window and did not enquire. 
Home at 9. Read Catteau's " Danem'k\" Just now, 

\i o'clock, comes in d' Aries and family. La belle 

has been forbidden to speak to Mons. 4 Gamp. Supper, 
two eggs. The butter is so bad that je ni en passe*. 
Tobacco out ; had to buy this holy P. M. 

17. Couche at 1. Rose at 7. Wrote last even- 
ing to Baron Engerstrbm enclosing the letter of H. 
Gahn. At 12 took the letter to Dr. Gahn, who sent it 
with my card by his servant. A note of Madame 
Helvig sent yesterday forenoon has by stupidity of 
servant come to hand at 1 P. M. this day. The 
seasonable receipt would have prevented my walk to 
the bath. Wrote an answer to Madame. Among 
the wise things, I congratulated her on the appearance 
of fine settled weather, and since 7 P. M. till 7 A. M. 
Tuesday morning (the hours at which I write), it has 
been raining torrents. To the post-office ; found there 
a letter, but from Gothenburg saying that no letters 
had come there for me ! On this point I despair, but 
let us [not] begin a new day with despair. Mem.: 
On my way home from the post-office an accident qui 
me cout.; 1 r. d. Mau. iff. 

1 8. Yesterday I found * * * * 7 tea that appeared 

1 "A Young Man's Tour." Paris : 1802 ; I act (so, so; etc.) by and . 

2 The governess. 

? For " Danemari." " Denmark." 

4 For Monsieur. 

; I do without it. 

6 For qui me couta I rix dollar. Mauvais. IS- Which cost me I rix dollar. Bad. 15. 

7 Undecipherable. 

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Private journal of Aaron Burr . 

to be good. Bought % pound, and treated myself to 
a dish by way of supper. Took two cups moderately 
strong. Finding that I should not sleep, I did not go 
to bed. Passed the night in reading French plays and 
arranging my notes on Swedish jurisprudence. I can't 
bear even the smell of tea, though nothing more grate- 
ful. But the bare scent would, I believe, keep me 
awake. Despairing of letters, I will wait no longer, 
but be off. You would never guess whither, nor why ! 
In December, however, I shall be on your continent. 

P. M. No sort of disposition to sleep. At 4 

fillibonka. At 6 to Poppius's to talk law ; out. To 
Helvig's ; the ladies had not left town. Y : Silver- 
sparri, who sang; deemed the finest voice in Stockholm. 
Home at 8 and set to reading plays. This morning 
called at Breda's to see your picture. It has been varn- 
ished and is perfectly restored. It is very much (and 
very justly) admired. How much I wish I could get a 
copy made by Breda ! Raining hard all day and even- 
ing. Read till 12. The plays are: "Le Judgement 
de Midas "', three acts, prose, par M. d'Hele, Paris : 
1778; a very trifling little thing; the music and 
scenery may make anything charming. "Misanthrope 
Repentir" z traduit de V allemand de Kotzebu par Bursay; 
Paris an: VIII. 3 I like this better than the English 
translation under the name of the " Stranger." " Cam- 
ille ou le Souterrain" 4 , three acts, Paris: 1 791 ; par 
Marsollier. A jealous husband without any reasonable 

1 " The Judgment of Midas." 

2 Should be " Misanthropie et RepentirS' " Misanthropy and Repentance." 
I Translated from the German of Kotzebue by Bursay ; Paris: Year VIII. 
4 " Camille, or the Vault." 

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Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

cause confines Camille, a very lovely and virtuous 
woman, a whole year in a deep vault, lying on the 
ground, subsisting on a scanty portion of coarse bread 
and water. He is suspected of having killed her, and 
being seized by order of the King, the story comes 
out. Camille is too happy that her honour is justified 
and she restored to her dear husband. They embrace 
and all is made up ; not even an apology on his part. 
Is it possible that a Parisian audience in '91 could 
relish such a tale! In the first scene there is some- 
thing like wit and humour ; afterwards a series of im- 
possibilities and absurdities. " Le Jeune Sage et le 
Vieux Fou" 1 ; one act, par Hoffman; Paris: 1793; 
well enough for a bagatelle. "Raoul Sire de Crequi " 2 ; 
three acts, par M. Monvel ; Paris : 1789 ; well enough 
calculated for stage effect. "Felix ou F Enfant 
Trouve" 1 ; anon.; Paris: 1778; impossibilities and 
absurdities in quantity; without wit or humour. " Jeu 
de la Fortune ou les Marionettes " 4 ; five acts, par L. B. 
Picard ; Paris: 1806; full of rapid reverses of fortune ; 
love and friendship follow wealth and abandon poverty ; 
men, women, servants, all rascals, time-serving, cring- 
ing sycophants ; the only exception is a little paysanne* 
who adheres to her lover through all changes, though 
he had abandoned her when he became suddenly rich; 
the design of the play is well illustrated, but gives a 
most disgusting, probably true, picture of the times. 



1 " The Wise Youth and the Old Fool." 

2 The actual title is " Raoul de Crequi." 
I " Felix, or the Foundling." 

4 " The Game of Fortune, or the Puppet-show. 

5 Peasant girl. 



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Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

19. Instead of going to bed at 10 or 11 as I 
ought, to make up the arrears of sleep, read till 1 2 and 
then lay till 1 sleepless. Slept one profound nap till 
10. Yesterday invitation from Wennerquiest to pass 
this evening ; conviens 1 . Sor. 1 1 to Hedboom's about 
the ducats and the list of stages ; out ; left a note. 
Paid y 2 rix dollar for quire com. paper ; 40 sch. for 
tobacco ; 4*^ rix dollars for P.'s silk stockings. Mjolk 
kokas till middag 1 . Received this P. M. very civil note 
from Grefve 5 Engerstrom inviting to an interview at 
1 P. M. to-morrow. Walked to Wennerquiest's at 8. 
Y: Hosack; Colloni or Collins; magnificent, fine 
voice ; several other musicians and musical men ; 
Hendrick, a German, settled some time in Liverpool, 
whom I met at Daily's ; Ludert, a very handsome and 
interesting young Russian ; had been only two years 
in England, but speaks English so as to be mistaken 
for a native. Supper good. Came off with the young 
Russian at 1 1. 

20. Hosack called by appointment at 7 ; the 
first instance of punctuality. Set him to copying the 
constitution, of which I have borrowed a French 
translation. At 1 to Engerstrom's ; rem tres hon't 4 . 
un bel homme de 55. Madame^ polonaise^ who is now in 
Poland, whence le Compte returned on the late revolu- 
tion ; has a son, 1 8, militaire\ now here ; two daughters 
with their mother. Dinner at the Society of Nobles ; 



1 For [je] conviens. I agree. 

2 For mjilhkaka till middag. Milk-cakes at noon. Probably a sort of milk-roll. 
5 Swedish for Count. 

4 For re;u tres honnetement. Very courteously received. 

5 A fine looking man of 55. His wife a Polish lady who is now in Poland, whence the 
Count returned, etc. Has a son who is a soldier. 

174 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

an excellent dinner. A bottle of wine for Hosack and 
self; paid for both, 1 rix dollars, \i sch. T: An 
Rveque 1 of prepossessing phiz. ; played billiards well. 
Home at 4. At 6 to Calberg. T: Madame and three 
strangers. L. was out on the lake, in sight, fishing 
party. Staid an hour and walked to Dr. Gahn's. T: 
The family only. Refused supper at both places. 
Home at ]4, p. 9. At Gahn's a kind of strawberry I 
had not before seen ; large, conical, dull red, green, 
and yellow ; dull colours ; in flavor like our garden 
strawberry. This morning called on Mr. Brooks. T: 
Klinkerstrbm. Part. che. lui r . Madame invites me to 
sup to-morrow evening. 

21. Read last evening three more French plays. 
The best is one which the author announces on his 
title page had been hissed. The others very silly, 
unmeaning trash, neither wit nor incident to amuse or 
interest. Will read no more of them. Couche at 1. 
Waked, and by my watch it was Y / 2 p. 7, but it had 
run down, and lo, it was 10 ! Slept profoundly all that 
time and, contrary to custom, not the worse for it. 
Note from Madame B. postponing her party till to- 
morrow evening, which don't suit me at all, having 
promised myself to sup with the Helvigs at Drottning- 
holm. Quoi faire? To Hedboom's about the ducats 
and list of roads ; out, and nothing done. How that 
good-natured fellow plagues me ! Home at 1. Two 
more English mails arrived and nothing for us ! 
" Hist. Naturelle des Femmes" 1 , par J. L. Moreau [de 



1 For eveque. Bishop. 

2 For Partit cbex, lui. He went home. 
I "Natural History of the Women.'' 



*75 



Private jf o u r ?i a I of Aaron Burr . 

la Sarthe) 1 , avec n planches 7 ". Three volumes octavo ; 
Paris : 1803, curiux 1 . "Histoire de I 'Eglise du Japon," 
par le R. P. Crasset, de la Compagnie de Jesus ; two 
volumes quarto, av. planches*; Paris: 171 5. The 
miracles, as the compiler, a learned Jesuit, says, are as 
well attested as any of those in the New Testament. 
The Emperor of Japan did very right to hang them 
all, according to their own report. They were bold, 
daring rascalls 5 , and performed wonders, if not miracles. 
" Essai sur la Megalanthropogenesie," par Robert le 
jeune des basses Alpes. Duod. Paris: 1801. Dedie a 
V Institut National de France^, showing how talents of 
every sort may be perpetuated by being transmitted 
from generation to generation ; curious and learned. 
" La Guerre d ' ' Espagne de Bavarie et de Flandre, ou 
Memoirs du Marquis D." Avec plans des bat's, &c. 
Imp. a Cologne, 1707. Duod. 654 pa. 1 A medley of 
love, politics, and war, tolerably well written and worth 
perusal, i. e., the historical and military part. Called 
this afternoon on General Helvig ; out. To Jacobi's. 
T: Professor Phillipson and Luders, the young Rus- 
sian. They invited me to walk in Kong. 8 Garden, 
which declined. Philibonka pr. aftonmilstid 9 . No 
supper. 

1 Of La Sarthe, a department of France. 

2 With eleven plates. 

3 For curieux. Curious. 

4 " History of the Church of Japan," by R. P. Crasset of the Society of Jesus; two volumes, 
quarto, with plates. 

; So in the MS. 

6 " Essay on the Art of Procreating at Will Men of Lofty Stature and Men of Genius" — 
by Robert the young [or younger] of Les Basses Alpes [a department of France], dedicated to 
the National Institute of France. 

7 " The Spanish, Bavarian, and Flemish Wars, or Memoirs of Marquis D." With Plans of 
the Battles [des batailles]. Printed [Imprimi] at Cologne, 1707, duodecimo, 654 pages. 

8 For Kungstradgard. Another royal park open to the public. It is Stockholm's great 
promenade. 

9 Filbunie four aftonmaltid. Filbunhe for supper. 

I76 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

11. Couche i. Lev. 7. Called on Bergstrom 
before breakfast and left with him a card to be ten- 
dered to his uncle the advocate, which he promised. 
Home. Hosack came in at 9 and took breakfast with 
me. Set him to copy the constitution. To Hed- 
boom's ; found him and got the list of roads but not the 
ducats. Dinner, mjolk koka 1 . At *4 p- 7 to Brooks's ; 
there were about two dozen of each sex. La Comtesse 
Gyllanstolp nee 2 De Geer de Finspang ; son mart 
colonel in the army au Nord? and now there ; le 
Comte Jacob de la Gardie, a sensible, well-bred, 
sprightly man. There were some at cards, some walk- 
ing and chatting when I came in; all appeared content. 
Madame B. does very well the honours of her house. 
I came in very late ; 6 is the customary hour. Supper 
at 1 1 ; very handsome; came off at 12. It was my 
projel 4 to have walked after supper to Drottningholm 
(about eight English miles) and I had ordered matters 
for my reception at 1 in the morning, the hour I 
expected to arrive ; but this afternoon came the valet 
de Helvig to say that her carriage would call for me 
at 1 1 to-morrow. I have, therefore, given up, but 
with regret, my promenade a pied\ the nights are so 
lovely. Snuff — " Heavens, Madame, how horrible 
for a beautiful woman !" " Yes, sir," says she, " and 
that / should offer it !" Aurore 6 — " If I do not mis- 



1 See Glossary. 

2 Born, i. e. her maiden name. 

} Her husband a colonel in the army in the North. 

4 For projet. Scheme. 

; My walk ; literally, my promenade on foot, for the French word promenade may also 

refer to a drive or horseback ride. 

6 Aurore de Gyllanstolphe. 

177 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

take you, that project is only postponed and not 
abandoned." 

23. A supper disqualifies me from going to bed, 
so sat up till 2. Before 4 woke and feeling no incli- 
nation to sleep more, got up. Breakfast at 6. At y 2 
p. 7 to Breda's, where we talked a great deal of T. 
" Good God," says he, " pardon the freedom ; but 
can any man on earth be worthy of that woman and 
know how to estimate her ! Such a union of delicacy, 
dignity, sweetness, and genius I never saw. Is she 
happy?" He almost shed tears. Thence to Madame 
Brooks's ; not visible. To Comte Gyllanstolphe ; out. 
To Count de la Gardie, who received me very cour- 
teously. Not being very certain that I understood the 
Swedish servant of Madame d'Helvig, went to the 
town house, where saw the servant, who repeated that 
he would call at 11. At 1 1 he did call; took me to 

, where, to my astonishment, saw Madame 

ramie d'Helvig 1 , seule. " Do you live here, Madame?" 
" No ; but my husband does." We went, all three, 
and arrived at 1. Most friendly reception. No com- 
pany but the family and us. Tant mienx*. After 
dinner I walked to my lodgings at d' Aries's, about one 
mile English. The family of d'H. agreed to meet 

me at 6 au Jardin du Roi. Madame is at my 

lodgings, and she insists that I lodge elsewhere. 
Gam. thou. dang 5 . So a room was provided for me in 
the neighbourhood. Called on Madame d'Castre and 



1 The lady friend of Helvig. 

2 So much the better. 

j Probably for Gamp thought dangerous. 



178 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

then went to d'Helvig's. Walked two hours. Re- 
turned to soupe. Off at 10. Bien content 1 with my 
quarters. The old man cleaned his pipe and lent it 
to me. Note : I had not smoked since 9 this morning. 
24. Couche y 2 p. 11. Lev. 7. Like a log one 
nap. At 10 to de Castre's. Only M'lle at home. 
Pursued Madame de Castre to the mineral bath, but 
missed the way and wandered for two hours in the 
labyrinth. No Ariadne 2 to help me. To the warm 
bath, a large establishment, to engage bath at 1. To 
d'H.; Madame and M'lle sitting on the grass ; ma 
belle Mary Ann (only think, your favorite name) 
becoming daily more interesting. Staid an hour. 
Refused strawberries and cream. To the bath at 1, 
but failed from misunderstanding with the young lady, 
and would not wait. Home for an hour, and then to 
d'C.'s to dine. Dined in the arbour in the garden. 

T : Madame and M'lle de C, and Madame , 

un franc aise qui ne manque pas a 1 ' esprit 1 . Walked to 
see the hay harvest and the Castor and Pollux. At 
6 to Helvig's. The General had gone early this 
morning to town. Strawberries and milk. Having 
mentioned my determination to walk this evening to 
town they proposed to accompany me to the bridge, but 
I was obliged to go first to my quarters. We roved 
through the Gardens and they walked near my resi- 
dence till I went to change my dress ; joined them 
again and we parted near the bridge. We had ob- 

1 Well satisfied. 

2 In Greek mythology Ariadne was the daughter of Minos, King of Crete. She gave 
Theseus the clue by means of which he found his way out of the labyrinth. 

} A French woman who does not lack wit, intellect. ( Vne Frontalis, etc.) 

179 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

served from the house a view of the end of the 2d 
Pont 1 and the road ascending the hill towards town ; 
there I paused to contemplate the house of my friends. 
I could just discern them on the green before the 
door ; a white handkerchief waved and the signal 
returned, and again and again repeated. I walked on, 
slow promenade. Presently overtaken by a paysanne 
with whom I walked and was amused for near three 
miles; x / 2 rix dollar. Got home a little past n, not 
the least fatigued ; could have walked back again with- 
out reposing. Warm wattr? to wash my feet and 
mjolk koku} for supper. A most dreadful misfortune 
and here irreparable ! I have mourned over it an 
hour and more and cannot even now write the details. 
It happened just as I had finished the preceding and 
was preparing in good glee for bed. The beautiful 
little watch of Lepine — both glasses broken ! ! ! 

25. Couche 1. Lev. at 8. At 10 to Jacobi's. 
T : Luders and another. Asked Jacobi to call on me 
at 4, which he promised. To the Comtesse Aurore 
de Gyllanstolphe ; out. You will think this a hard 
name for a beautiful woman. Nee Geer de Finspang, 
where is a sister said to be more beautiful than herself. 
Thither I was invited. Thither la Comtesse goes on 
Thursday; about 150 English miles. Home. At 1, 
though called a warm day, walked to the mineral 
springs au Pare to see Hosack. He complained of 
being weak and unwell. Laughed at him and made 



1 For [le] second font. The second bridge. 

2 For Swedish vatten. Water. 
} See Glossary. 



I8O 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

him walk with me home, two and a half miles. Filli- 
bonk for dinner. Read two hours in Bentham. To 
General d'Helvig's at 7; out. Home by way of 
Kong. Garden, where a band of music and much 
monde 1 . Jacobi came at 5. The watch can neither be 
sold nor repaired here. Guineas are 8*/£ rix dollars 
Rexelt cash, which is about 22 per cent, above par. 
Hosack changed his last eight to-day. No letters, nor 
have I written one since being in Stockholm save the 
single short one to Achaud on business. I have fifty 
projects of journeys, all embryos and will be all abor- 
tions. No letter. Changed 1 guinea to-day ; 8 y 2 
rix dollars. Paid H. 2 rix dollars 21 sch. in full. 
The residue shall last me a week. To-day a Russian 
messenger arrived. The preliminaries, before Russia 

will even treat, are : 1. that the Prince of , the 

Emperor's brother-in-law, be declared successor to the 
throne; 2. the cession of Finland; 3. that the ports 
be shut against Great Britain. I have never spoken 
to you of politics, because I have personally no hand 
in them, which will be reason enough for you, and for 
twenty other good reasons. We have every few days 
news of the advance of the Russian army towards us ; 
then contradicted. Victories and defeats equally false. 
Bonaparte one day vanquished, the next victor ; some- 
times wounded or killed. Here are French parties 
and English parties. The former predominate, but 
nothing of our violence. Calm ; tranquil. The 
troops in town (here) are all embarking on some 
expedition ; supposed (indeed known) to aid the army 

I People. 

l8l 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

of Vride on the Gulf of Bothnia. There was a 
mutiny. Officers knocked down, &c. 

26. Couche 1. Slept till 9. At 12 to Breda's 
to see the picture. He has placed it among all the 
Goth and Vandal beauties and they are really beauti- 
ful, but all in the shade by your presence. This and 
Davis 1 has given you great renomme 2 here. Au chateau 
to see Baron Engerstrom. He was engaged but gave 
me rendezvous at 7 this evening. To Hedboom's ; 
out. Returning, seeing Brooks and fille 1 at their 
window, went in for y 2 hour. Called on la Comtesse 

; out. Breda engaged me this morning to 

dine en /am*., to which agreed cheerfully. Went at *4 
p. 2. T : The family, i. e.> two sons, one in the naval 
service, the other painter, both fine young men, the 
latter un fort esprit^ ; daughter of 15 plays remarkably 
well and has a most charming voice. Off at 5. Dined 
and went for an hour to Mr. Brooks's. Y : The 
Baron ; invited to walk ; ne sauroit 6 . To Enger- 
strom's at 7. He never keeps me waiting a minute. 
Sat half an hour. Mentioned my design of visiting 
Germany, &c, and he begged that, when my route 
should be settled, I would inform him, that he might 
give me letters. To Helvig's at 8, where sat an hour 



1 On page 151 will be found another reference to Davis and his " Travels." Possibly Mat- 
thew L. Davis is meant. He was one of Burr's most intimate friends, wrote the Memoirs, 
edited the Journal (see Introduction), and wrote constantly for the newspapers. For a time he 
contributed from Washington to the New York Courier and Enquirer under the pen name of 
"A Spy in Washington." He also wrote for the London Times, signing his letters " The Gen- 
evese Traveler." It may be that it was to Davis's letters to the London Times that Burr refers. 

2 For renommee. Renown. 

3 Daughter. 

4 For enfamille. 

5 A strong mind. 

6 For ne saurais. I can't. 

182 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

tete-a-tete* in his library. Amused by his military 
science, and interested by his warmth and frankness. 
He is a German by birth. Gave me samples of pow- 
der which, he says, has more than double the usual 
force, i. e., that a pistol of fifteen-inch barrel will do 
effect at 200 yards, and a musket at 600 ! Samples 
of florite, a composition. Showed me a sort of paper 
mache z for cannon cartridges, much cheaper and better 
than linen or cloth. A telescope for measuring dis- 
tance. The distance required is found by mere 
inspection of a graduated scale attached to the tele- 
scope. An instrument for measuring distances by time, 
in form of a watch ; gives with perfect accuracy the 
sixtieth part of a second. Every artillery officer is 
obliged to have one. The cost, $15. Moulds, by 
which every part of the musket or pistol must be 
made, so that every part may fit every piece. (Note : 
The ladies are at Drottningholm ; Louisa not arrived.) 
Home at y 2 p. 9. Found on my table the Latin 
edition of the Swedish laws, which for weeks I had 
been seeking in vain. It came from the Baron 
d'Albedyhll (whom I have never seen), accompanied 
by a very honete l note in French. Sat down most 
greedily to devour Svenska 4 law. Read till 1, and now 
bon soir. There is a bal to-night at the park, but I 
went not, for two reasons (which you may divine), 
though much urged. 

27. Couche 1. Rose 7. Before breakfast to 



1 For tete-a-tete. Literally head to head, i. e., in close conversation. 

2 For papier-mache. 

3 For honnete. Civil, polite. 

4 Svensi is Swedish for Swedish. Svenska lagen. The Swedish law. 



183 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Bergstrdm's, whom I found. His uncle is a celebrated 
advocate, whose acquaintance I wish to aid my legal 
researches. To Breda's ; out. M'lle sang and played 
for me. Home to breakfast. Replied very honetely 1 
to the Baron d'Albedyhll's note. To a watchmaker 
who says he can replace the glasses and that the watch 
has sustained no other injury. I danced for joy at 
this news. To Hedboom's, whom I found ; got my 
6 ducats which are now worth 4 dollars Rixelt each. 
He offered me many civilities. To Breda's again, 
whom saw only to ask a question. Home to study 
law. No, I came by Ulrick's, the bookseller, to get 
a book written by le Baron d'Albedyhll, which got. 
Read a book before you see the author. Sat half an 
hour with M'lle Ulrick. She is beautiful, very beau- 
tiful ; about 1 5, nearly your size and form. Speaks 
German and French fluently. Her elder sister keeps a 
bookstore at Nykooping or Noskyping, I forget which. 
Z)// 2 , that she is also beautiful, knows all languages, 
ancient and modern, &c, &c. Single; boit'e*. Home 
at y 2 p. 1. Read the Baron's book. Only about 
fifty pages, extremely well written in French. The 
rest of the volume is made up of documents and 
public letters. The subject is a history of the armed 
neutrality, the whole merit of which has been given to 
Catherine of Russia. No such thing ! It originated 
in a treaty made between Denmark and Sweden in 
1756; renewed between them in 1779. Catherine, 



I A hybrid adverb made from the adjective mentioned in note J, preceding page. 

z Said. 

3 For boiteuse. Lame. 



I84 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

during all that year, and till July, 1780, refused to 
come into it, fearing the effect on the belligerent 
powers. At length, in that month, by the influence 
of Count Panin, her minister, she acceded. At 5 to 
Judge Poppius's, whom, fortunately, I found smok- 
ing in his office. He would transfer me over to his 
beautiful wife till he made his toilette 1 ; but I sat down 
and took a pipe, and had an hour's very satisfactory 
conversation with him. Went in to tea, but took 

none. T: Madame Djyrta and M'lle , her 

sister. At 8 to Helvig's to see for Louisa ; out ; not 
even a servant. Home, and sat to read law. Filli- 
bonka at 4. No supper. I do not report to you my 
Swedish law ; that has a separate department, and 
many curious things will be found in it. Met Mrs. 
Daily in the street this morning. 

28. Coucbe y 2 p. 12. Rose 6. Breakfast at 7. 
At 8 to the watchmaker's. He has put in both glasses 
and mended the hinge of the case, which was not 
broken by accident but actually worn out. Everything 
wears out ; you will wear out. No, alas ! you perish 
joyless in those infernal swamps. I wear out slowly. 
Really slowly, as you see. But, for all this watchwork, 
you will be surprised to hear that I paid only 1 rix 
dollar rixett, nominally 3 shillings sterling, but in fact 
only 1 shillings and 6 pence. To Baron d'Albedyhll's 
just before 9 ; out ; in fact, he was not dressed. To 
Helvig's, just to inquire for Louisa ; she has not come. 
The impudent huzzy sent me a message of compli- 



I Toilet. 



185 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

ments. Engaged to pass the day with the family at 
Drottningholm on Sunday. Propose to walk up Sun- 
day night. Home and went to work at Swedish law. 
Ludert, the handsome young Russian, came in at 1 1 
and sat an hour. Of Romanzow ; Cate ; disposition 
of Russian army toward the French ; meeting of two 
regiments and twenty-six officers condemned to be 
shot ; two actually shot ; of Russian finances ; copper, 
paper money, depreciation of. Fillibonka at 3. At 5 
called on Madame Daily ; out. Walked over to Cal- 
berg ; met la bel. Comtesse Lowenhaupt at the door ; 
walked with her toward the park ; three ladies fol- 
lowed ; asked la Comtesse in English who they were; 
one of them addressed me in very good English and 
introduced the others. Cakes, tea, &c, a very pleasant 
drink made of small beer, wine, lemons, sugar. Much 
monde came in. General Cronstedt, ux. et trois enf. 1 ; 

Baron or Count , who is appointed minister to 

France ; Stul, a young officer, his secretary ; la belle 
Comtesse Bonj, dit the most beautiful woman in Stock- 
holm, and many others. The two belles sang and 
played, both very fine voices ; c 1 est trop. z Astonishing 
that two belles should be such devoted friends ; very 
honorable to both and very amiable. Stole off" at 8 ; 
and have spent two hours in getting the powder out of 
my hair. Company to supper with d'Aries ; invited 
but decline. My eyes have suffered by much read- 
ing ; must relax to-night. 

29. Couche 11. Slept sound till 8! At 10 

1 For uxor et trois enfants. Wife and three children. 

2 Literally, that is too much ! Perhaps it might be translated : That caps the climax ! That 
beats me ! 

186 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

called on Ludert. He showed me a collection of 
Russian songs, indegines 1 , and promises to procure me 
a copy. Home. At 1 1 sor. with Mr. Gransbom chez 
orfevrier z . Changed 5 ducats for 4 rix dollars 8 sch. 
rexelt cash, which is about 30 per cent, above their 
cost in London. Mr. G. has agreed to go with me to 
Gripsholm. We pursued our walk to find a passage 
by water ; found three sloops going this evening, and 
resolved to go in one of them. To the bank to get 
some silver. To Hedboom's for letter which he 
offered for his friend at Gripsholm ; out ; left note. 
Wrote Munck and Gahn for the letters which they 
offered me for the same place. Sent Gosse (poike 1 ) 
with the letters. Hosack came in at 12 looking better 
than what I have seen him. Fillihonka at 2. Busy, 
busy, busy, preparing for the jaunt. 

Drottningholm, Sunday, July 30, 1809. Yester- 
day noon I told you that I was just setting off for 
Gripsholm where the deposed King, his Queen, and 
family are now confined. At 6 P. M. (yesterday) 
went again to the sloop to see the hour of departure ; 
it was deferred till Monday P. M. Hosack walked 
with me. Resolved to improve the interval by a visit 
to this delightful sejour 4 , now rendered still more inter- 
esting by the presence of the d'Helvigs. Set off at 
9, a most serene and mild moonlight evening. Passing 
the last bridge, which I was very intently measuring 
by steps, heedless of a party just passing me, when a 



1 For indigenes. Native. 

2 For orfivre. Goldsmith. 

3 For fojke. Swedish for boy. 

4 For sejour. Abode. 



187 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

man put his hand on my shoulder and stopped me. 
It was General d'Helvig, the three souers\ Louisa hav- 
ing arrived from Upsala, M'lle la Baronne Silver- 
sparri, and M'lle F. I was not the least fatigued ; 
walked with the Helvigs in the park and gardens till 
12. Went to my lodgings ; all asleep and fast locked; 
tried at d' Aries's ; ditto ; knocked hard at each ; no 
movement ; resolving not to lay 2, in the street, fenfon- 
cai le porte 1 of my lodgings. The old man et ux. came 
down in some trepidation, got light, and my bed was 
ready. Not a mouthful of bread or milk or anything 
eatable or drinkable to be had save pure water. Hav- 
ing dined on fillib* and walked at least ten miles, a 
supper would have been welcome. Couche at i. 
Attacked by epinaisesK Fought hard till 4, slaying 
thousands, but the number of the enemy increasing, 
resolved on a retreat. The sun had risen ; began by 
taking the sheets, coverlid, and pillows out doors, 
beating and shaking them well ; then stripped and 
changed my clothes, and laid me on the floor. Got a 
sound nap of five hours. Rose at 10. Found note 
from d' Aries, inviting me to dine, which declined, 
proposing to dine at d'Helvig's. Sor. \i to d'H.; all 
out and could not understand where they had gone, 
the domestics being all Swedes. Eat cherries and 
strawberries in the garden till could swallow no more. 
Read a pretty little French comedie, " Un Heure 



1 Burr's spelling for soeurs. Sisters. 

2 So in the MS. 

3 For j'enfon<;ai la forte. I broke in the door. 

4 His favorite filbunhe. 

5 For funaises. Bedbugs. 



188 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

d y absence 1 ." The statues in the garden all crowned 
with wreaths and garlands ; must be some jour de fete 1 . 
Staid till y 2 ^.i. No signs of return, ghioi faire? 
Ou din. 1 ? To the bath ; took warm bath, % rix dollar ; 
cheap enough and everything in excellent order. At 
5 to d' Aries's. T a grn. bowl fillibonca*. Chez moi to 
put up my things, which d'A. takes to town in his 
cabriole. At 7 to d'Helvig's. Found the whole family 
returned and reposing, having been on a party to the 

Hat mountain, where King , being dethroned 

and pursued, lost his hat ; afterwards recovering his 
throne. The family presently appeared. Tea. Gar- 
den. Yesterday was the anniversary, the sixth, of the 
marriage of Mr. d'H. We played ball. Louisa 

much more expert than Gamp. Colonel , 

came in and off before supper. I staid to supper, to 
which did justice. At l /± p. 10 came off to walk 
home, and now at 1 you see me in my room adjoining 
the library at d' Aries' in Stockholm. 

Stockholm, July 31, 1809. Couche )/ 2 p. 1 but 
could not sleep till 4. Lev. 9. Having my keys 
always in my pocket I go out and come in at any 
hour without disturbing the servants ; have my 
maches 5 and candle, &c. At 11 to Jacobi's ; out. 
To Ludert's ; out. To the docks to see about 
our sloop for Gripsholm ; gone, all gone ! Home 
at 1. Changed a guinea for 8 rix dollars, 24 sch. 
Note from Dr. Gahn enclosing letter to his sister 

1 "An Hour's Absence." 

2 Feast-day. 

3 For iluoifaire? Ou (peut-on) diner >. What's to be done >. Where may a fellow dine >. 

4 Had there a large {grand) bowl of filbunie. His spelling is the seventh variation. 
; So in the MS. 

I89 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

at Gripsholm. Note from Munck saying that his 
friend has left Gripsholm and come to reside in 
Stockholm and he knew no other person at Grips- 
holm. No letter from Hedboom. Thinking it very 
proper to have a letter from some man in office, wrote 
to Baron Engerstrom, who had offered me letters to 
every part of the kingdom, that I should set off for 
Gripsholm on Thursday. Took the note self; saw 
his secretary ; the Baron then very busy, appointed to 
see me Wednesday 5 P. M. Home. Mjolk coka 1 at 
4. Went along the docks with Gransbom, but could 
find no vessel to Gripsholm. Home at 4. Finished 
reading the mem. of Baron Albedyhll, i. e., the first 
volume, the only one I can get. He writes well ; 
sometimes diffuse and declamatory ; much political 
information concerning the periods he was employed ; 
says he now lives on a pension of 200 rix dollars, 

reduced by to 150. How in the devil can a 

man live on that ? Living with the utmost economy 
I have spent more the three months I am in Sweden, 
but here is a French Cheval. z who lives on $48 per 
annum, and is always gay. I must take some lessons 
from him. Took about a gill more than was usual of 
mjolk for dinner par la toute misplais ^Anna ? , which 
has brought on a headache. Have taken Rhad. Rhei 4 
and go couche. Mem.: Went this P. M. to d'H. with 
a pistol which wants repair. He repeats to me the 
wonderful portee 5 of his firearms. Pistols the same 

1 See Glossary. 

2 For chevalier. Cavalier. Knight. 

3 To Anna's total displeasure. ( Miiflais. for deflaiiir.) 

4 For Radix Rhei. Latin. Rhubarb. 

5 For portee. Range. 

I9O 



Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

length of barrel as mine, eighty yards, point blank ; 
muskets, 250 to 300 yards point blank. I am almost 
incredulous, though he is scientific and exact. We are 
to make experiments some day next week. He 
showed me at Drottningholm a very curious air pistol 
of great force. We tried it. 

Stockholm, August 1, 1809. Couche y 2 p. 11. 
A bad night ; troublesome headache, though not 
violent yet genant 1 . Rose at 9; took common tea; 
la pauv. Anna 2 very solicitous. At 11, well and sor. 
av. Gransbom to hunt passage. We discovered that 
our sloop and all the others in that quarter had 
been impressed for the public service, but found the 
King's yatch 3 which goes regularly every week to 
Gripsholm, but she is to go at 4 to-morrow morning. 
ghioi /aire with my appointment chez d'Engerstrom 
and his lettre*? Breakfast at 1. Tea and salt herring. 
Again to the yatch. Fortunately she will not sail till 
Thursday morning ; how fortunate ! Ludert called 
this morning and sat an hour ; gave me a Russian 
rouble and is to get me more. Says I can readily 
get a passport from Count Romanyoff. Advises me 
to write. 

1. Couche at 1, but insomnia; got up; read, 
smoked, &c, all to no purpose. At 5 lay down and 
rose at 7. It was necessary to be up at 7 to give to 

, the Russian messenger, a letter for Count 

Romanyoff. At 8 to Ludert's who introduced me to 

1 For genant. Troublesome. 

2 For la pauvre Anna. Poor Anna. 

3 So throughout the MS. 

4 Letter. 

191 



Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr . 

the Russian messenger ; a Swedish officer always pres- 
ent. Thence to Breda to take a look ; you had a 
bluish cast this morning which I didn't like. Engaged 
young Breda to go with me this P. M. to the Academy 
to see the exhibition of paintings. Bought a map of 
the government or district at Stockholm ; I rix dollar 
banco. Home, expecting Hosack, who ought to write 
by this Russian messenger a letter on which his very 
existence depends ; have been urging him a fortnight ; 
it could be done in fifteen minutes, but will not be 
done. Met Lagman Poppius yesterday, who prom- 
ised to get me Cautzler and Coxe, which he will not 
do. Jacobi engages me to dine with him to-day. At 
i came in the Russian messenger with his escort ; sat 
x / 2 hour. Bien hon 1 . At x / 2 p. i to Jacobi's to dine. 
At 5 to Baron Engerstom's ; promises to send the 
letter this evening. Dub 1 . Bien hon. To General 
d'Helvig's, who had promised to send me a small rifle 
for our amusement on the water, which he has forgot- 
ten ; out. Met at the door a gentleman whom I had 
so often met at d'Helvig's but whose name 1 had 
never heard. It proves to be the very Baron d'Albe- 
dyhll whom I have been seeking without knowing that 
I had found him. Mentioned to him my tour to 
Gripsholm. He begged me to take charge of a letter 
to his wife, who is, as he sais 3 , directly on the route. 
While at Jacobi's finished my letter to Romanyoffand 
gave it to Ludert. It is a great plague to me to write 



1 For Bien honn'ete. Very civil, polite. 

2 For Latin dubito. I doubt it. 

3 So in the MS. 



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Private y o u r n a I of Aaron Burr . 

in French. Gransbom has been to the yatch. She 
will go at 4 A. M. to-morrow, pos 1 . At 7 to d'Hel- 
vig's again ; out. Nine o'clock, and the letters of 
d'Engerstrom not come ! Cannot go without. Mr. 
G. has just gone for them. Heigh ho ! nobody 
punctual. The Russian messenger gone without 
Hosack's letter. Baron d'Albedyhll 2 sent servant with 
his letter and minute directions how to find the house. 
This is doing things right. Have mislaid Gahn's 
letter to his sister; domage 1 ! There are three beauti- 
ful daughters, all speaking French. To-morrow shall 
write you stylographically on the water. Bon soir. 
Curse those swamps and the latitude of 35I Now 
you feel it. Alas, where are those roses which cost an 
empire to restore! Past 10 o'clock. Messenger from 
Baron d'Engerstrom with four letters for Gripsholm 
and Upsala ! Bon soir. 

Upsala, Thursday, August 17, 1809. This is 
more legible but less convenient and it makes but one 
copy. 'Twas a bad calculation to bring only that little 
book. How could I forget to tell you of a new 
acquaintance ? Yesterday Mr. Turner, who is from 
good nature the cicerone of all strangers, told me that 
there was a traveler, a Prussian, who had a great desire 
to see me. He was brought up and presented. A man 

I Positively >. 

Z Baron d'Albedhyll had great admiration for Burr. In a letter dated September 24, 1S09, 
he asked him for some particulars of his life and said : "En attendant je vous prierai de me 
tendre plus que tout.cela, c est la faveur de voire amitie, et de voire souvenir I et je vous offre en 
retour Vhominage de la consideration et de V attachement les plus sinceres ; qui vont vous suivrc 
en tout sens,jusque dans V autre mondc. (Meanwhile I shall beg you to grant me more than all 
that, namely, the favor of your friendship and remembrance. I offer you in return the homage 
of the most sincere esteem and attachment; which will accompany you whithersoever you go, 
even into the other world.) 

J For c 1 'est dommage. It's a pity ! 

4 Burr refers to the malarial conditions where Theodosia resides. He is alarmed for her 
health. 

*93 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

of about 34 ; a very intelligent and prepossessing coun- 
tenance. His name, H. Barth. More I know not, 
but we are to meet in Stockholm. He speaks English 
fluently, is very chearful 1 , and has that amiable German 
frankness and bonhomie 1 which I do so love. Couch. 
h. au soi? at 10, but having drank a dish of coffee 
chez le Gouvemeur 4 could not sleep. Got up and 
dressed and walked abroad near an hour very fast to 
fatigue myself. I had before walked about five miles, 
but all to no purpose, so set me down to read the 
Latin edition of the Swedish laws. About i got 
asleep. Rose at 6. To Turnberg's at 7. Found 
him dressed and our coffee was immediately served, 
brought in by a pretty maid, with dry bread. After- 
wards, bread, butter, pickled eel, and smoked salmon, 
both very good, with brandy and cordials. Mr. T. 
took no brandy ; we both drank water. He offered 
me a copy of his " Travels " in Swedish, which I very 
foolishly declined. He answered with great cheerful- 
ness my questions about Japan. I had made notes so 
that nothing might be forgotten. Pray read his 
"Travels"; they will amuse you much and then you 
may question me. You may believe every word he 
writes. You are perhaps ignorant that in Japan 
women are as free as in any part of Europe and I 
think rather more so, but I cannot now (perhaps 
never) commit to writing all he says. Staid two 
hours. We exchanged abundance of civil expressions 

1 So in the MS. 

2 Good fellowship. 

3 For [je mc] couchai hier au soir. Retired last evening. 

4 At the Governor's. 

194 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

and have agreed to keep up an intercourse after my 
return to America. Home at 10. You know we are 
to go off this morning to Sigtuna. Called on the Gov- 
ernor to take leave. He was under the hands of his 
hair-dresser but would see me. Staid a few minutes. 
Did not see mademoiselles les baronnes 1 . Engaged to see 
him in Stockholm, where he is to be next week. On my 
return home found Afzelius, Jr. He proposes instead 
of going now to Sigtuna to make a tour to the mines 
of Dannemora, which suits me perfectly well. Are to 
set off at 3 and return to-morrow. Called on Mr. 
Turner who gave me a great number of pamphlets by 
the different professors and other matters of curiosity 
and information. A basket of cherries and a very 
pretty note from Madame Afzelius lajeuS A watch- 
man in the steeple with an immense speaking trumpet 
proclaims the hour throughout the day as well as the 
night and immediately after the clock strikes, in a 
melodious tone of which not a syllable is articulated. 
No line from Hosack in answer to those which I wrote 
him on Friday last. The young etudiant^^ Mr. 
Hoxsam, came in again. He has been to the Ldsesall- 
skap i handelsman* Borell, where I shall be always 
welcome. The newspapers, foreign and domestic, are 
found there. Afzelius junior has sent me two more 
books on the ancient laws of Sweden. One, [by] 
Joh. O. Stiernhook, " De Jure Svenorum et Gothorum 



1 The baronesses. 

2 For la jeune. The young; hence the young Mrs. Afzelius. 
5 For etudiant. Student. 

4 Swedish. Reading-circle at the house of the merchant Borell. 



95 



Private jf o u r n a I of Aaron Burr . 

Vestuto." Lib. duo., Holmi<e : i6j2 l . Second, "Leges 
Svecorum, Gothorum " per Doc tor em Bagwaldum In- 
gemvrdi, Eccle., archid. Ubsalensis, an. 1681 latinatate 
primum donate — a new edition by Johannes Massenius; 
Stockholm : cidiocxiv. 2 Third, " Zajj.oAgis," (I can't 
make Greek letters as you can), Primus Get arum Legis- 
lator, etc., etc. Carolo Landio. Upsala: cioioclxxxvii'. 

Si Venerem fugias frustra proper abis ad arc ton 
Hoc quoque, quis credat ! climate regnat amor'' . 

18. The Doctor had sent his horses and servant 
for our carriage and rode with us to Desubro 5 where is 
the chateau, &c. Off at y 2 p. 1. Separate at 8. 
Took tea with the Haradshofding 6 . Pas vu M'e. Tant 
pis 1 . Home at 9. The whole family seemed rejoiced 
to see me. Read Zamosis 8 and Svenscha 9 law till 12. 
The distance from Upsala to Dannemora is about 
thirty miles. Our whole expense, including horses, 



19. Couche at 1. Much * * * *'° when afoot. 
Rose at 7. After breakfast walked to the landing ; 
found two sloops going to Stockholm on Monday. 
Price for a passage, 16 sch. banco, the distance being 
by water about sixty miles. Yesterday called on the 

1 Latin. u Concerning the Old Law of the Swedes and the Goths " ; in two books ; Stock- 
holm : 1672. 

2 " The Laws of the Swedes and the Goths." First presented in Latin by Doctor Bagval- 
dum Ingemurdi, Ecclesiastic, Archdeacon of Upsala, in the year 1681. A new edition by 
Johannes Massenius; Stockholm: 1614 (An error. He must have meant to indicate 1714, or 
else the other date should be 1581). 

3 " Zamolxis, first legislator of the Goths," etc., etc.; by Carolus Landius, Upsala: 1687. 

4 If thou wouldst flee love (Venus), in vain shalt thou hasten to the pole. In this clime, 
too — who would think it? — Love reigns. (Apparently Burr quotes from Ovid, but there are 
some suspicious features about the second verse.) 

5 Desrutro > 

6 For haradsh'ifding. Justice of a district ; circuit judge. 

7 For [je n'ai] pas vu Madame, etc. I did not see Madame. So much the worse. 

8 The Zamolxis mentioned above. 

9 See Glossary. 

10 An undecipherable word. 

I96 



Private 'Journal of A ar o ?i Burr . 

Har ads hof ding. Met him going out. He promised to 
call on me at 1 1, which he did not do. A slight rain. 
Called on the Director Afzelius ; out. Read law two 
hours. My young student called ; fine youth. At 
12 the Director came; brings me letter from Hosack 
with news from the United States of the continuation 
of the non-intercourse, &c. An American ship arrived 
at Stockholm. Story of the young Dalecarlian 1 who 
having by accident shot his wife, immediately shot 
himself. Of Adjutant-General Cardell who, when 
Gustavus IV. was shipwrecked in 1807 on Riigen, 
saved the Queen and an officer by swimming with 
them both. The King on first meeting on shore : 
"Sir, where is your staff"?" The General was con- 
fined in prison eight days for appearing before the 
King without his staff" of office. The King was an 
eye-witness to the saving of the Queen. The details 
of the revolution of March last, by A. E. A. Took 
a sort of supper ; ale, sugar-water and skolperi 1 . The 
ale of this country is excellent ; 6 sch. Rixelt le bou- 
teille 1 . 

20. Couche at 11. Lev. y 2 P* 4* To the 
fontaine*. To the landing ; no sloop going before 
to-morrow. Begin to be impatient to be off". Whilst 
I was dressing about 6 o'clock the maid, without 
knocking, a la suedoise*, brought in a stranger who 
addressed me in very good English ; apologized for 
the liberty ; that he had a great desire to know me, 

1 Dalecarlia was an old province of Sweden. 

2, Same as skropel. See Glossary. 

} Six shillings sterling per bottle (la bouteille). 

4 Fountain. 

5 In the Swedish fashion. 

197 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

having read much about me in the newspapers. He gave 
me his address. Mr. Lars Clever, Huset No. j6 nast 
Raintmastarehuset vid Skepsbron 1 ; 'en trappur upp 2 . I 
give it as a sample of the pretty little names of streets 
in Stockholm, as another, that in which is my lodgings, 
is called Malmskildnadsgatan. The gentleman tendered 
me civilities and said he should be in Stockholm on 
the 24th. It was not till yesterday that I learnt that 
I have been a subject of newspaper discussion for 
several weeks. What is said about me I have neither 
heard nor inquired. At 9 came in my amiable Prus- 
sian acquaintance, Barth, on his return from his 
Northern tour. He took charge of a letter for me 
for Hosack. At 12 called again at A. E. Afzelius ; 
no one at home. Went on to the landing ; no sloop 
going till to-morrow evening. Shall I wait so long or 
take a post-horse this evening to Sigtuna ? The 
Directeur* Afzelius enters ; how charmingly he hates 

the , in which we agree, and we curse them by 

the hour together. He gave me a letter to Baron 
Hermelin, Nora, where I propose to stay to-night. 2 
P. M. All my plans renversed 4 . A. E. Afzelius has 
been here and proposes to go with me to Stockholm 
by way of Sigtuna (the ancient and first capital of the 
country ; dit the residence of Odin 5 ) and Skoklaster if 
I will wait till Wednesday morning. The further 
inducements to wait are : First, that I am invited 

1 Mr. Lars Clever, house at No. 36 next to (nasi) thetreasury (Rantmastarehuset) by Skeps- 
bron (». «., the wharf, quay). 

2 For en trappa upp. Up one flight. 
I Director. 

4 A hybrid perfect participle made from the French verb rcnvcrser, to turn upside down ; 
hence, upset. 

5 The chief of the Norse gods, the same as Wodan in German mythology. 

I98 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

to pass the day to-morrow at the Lands hofdingen V : , 
where I shall see les belles Baronnes 2 ; second, to attend 
the territorial court, to be held here to-morrow ; third, 
to assist at the installment of a knight newly erected 
who, finding it inconvenient to go to Stockholm to be 
monted 1 by the King in person, his Majesty has been 
graciously pleased to authorize his Excellency the 
Lands hofdingen to perform the cerimony 4 in his name 
and stead. After the cerimony 4 , a dinner. Now, I'm 
thinking that you'll not scold at this delay because I 
shall have something to tell you. Remember to ask 
me to relate to you the history of Baron Hermelin, 
M'Lean, and Baron Silver. To the Har ads hof ding's 
at 4 to talk law. Reste 5 to tea. Madame bien belle ; 
had been extremely fortunate in her head-dress. Sang 
a great deal. T une jeu. dam. divorcee 6 ; la souer et mere 
de Madame Afzelius. Off at 7. Promen. 1 one hour 
with the Haradsbofding and home. 

21. Couche y 2 P- 10. Rose at 6 for the first time 
in six months. Dreamed engaged to marry a huge ugly 
beast ; name unknown ; reflections ; Mary A.; delib- 
erated whether to blow out brains or perform engage- 
ment ; waked by the striking of 6. Do remind me to 
give you a dissertation on locking doors. Every 
person of every sex and grade comes in without 
knocking ; plump into your bedroom ! They do not 



1 The Landshofding is a provincial governor, a lord-lieutenant. 

2 The handsome baronesses. 

3 Probably a hybrid verb from French monter, to raise; here, to raise to knighthood. 

4 So in the MS. 

5 Remain. 

6 For Y une jeune dame divorcee, etc. There was there a young divorced lady, etc. 

7 For promenade. Same meaning as in English. 



199 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

seem at all embarrassed, nor think of apologizing at 
finding in bed or dressing or doing — no matter what 
— but go right on and tell their story as if it were all 
right. If the door be locked and the key outside 
(they use altogether spring locks here), no matter, 
they unlock the door and in they come. It is vain to 
desire them to knock ; they do not comprehend you 
and if they do, pay no manner of attention to it. It 
took me six weeks to teach my old Anna not to come 
in without knocking and leave and finally it was only 
by appearing to get into a most violent passion and 
threatening to blow out her brains, which she had not 
the least doubt I would do without ceremony. I 
engage she is the only servant in all Sweden who ever 
knocks. Notwithstanding all my caution I have been 
almost every day disturbed in this way, and once last 
week was surprised in the most awkward situation 
imaginable. So, Madame, when you come to Svenska\ 
remember to lock the door and take the key inside. 
At i the Director Afzelius came and we walked up to 
the castle. There were about forty in the drawing- 
room destined for the ceremony, including the three 

ladies of the family, Madame from Stockholm, 

and one dame unknown. The order to be conferred 

was that of JVasa z \ the subject of installation 

Afzelius, professor of and brother of the Direc- 
tor. He was dressed in the costume of the order, 
which is black ; a short coat (or coatee) rounded at the 
flaps ; the shoulders with of black velvet ; a 

I The true Swedish name for Sweden is Sveriga. 

Z Wasa or Vasa. An order founded in 1772 by King Gustavus III. 

200 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

black scarf round the waist, and black silk cloak a 
F Espagnole 1 . The dress is rendered graceful by the 
silk and the cloak. At the upper end of the room 
was a small table placed before a large chair. M'lle 
Wetterstedt placed a crimson stool for the knight to 
kneel and on the table a blue silk cushion whereon 
was laid the gem, insignium 1 of the order. The Gov- 
ernor in full dress stood behind the table. On the 
stool immediately facing him kneeled the candidate for 
knighthood, the spectators standing round in a circle 
at a distance. The King's warrant authorizing the 
Governor to perform the investiture was then read by 
a knight. The Governor read the oath, which the 
candidate repeated. Then the Governor put on his 
hat, a large cornered hat edged with white feathers. 
He then drew his sword and laying it three times 

gently on the shoulder of the candidate said . 

The knight then rose. The Governor embraced him, 
his relatives and intimate friends did the same ; he 
kissed the hands of the two baronnes^ and the rest of 
the company congratulated him. Having never given 
you an account of a Swedish dinner, I may as well 
improve this occasion. Of the forms I shall only set 
down so much as is peculiar and invariable. Imme- 
diately after the congratulations a small table was set 
in the same room with bread of two or three kinds, 
butter, cheese, cut in small slices, brandy and wine 
glasses. One of the young ladies occupied herself in 
spreading the small pieces of bread with butter. The 



1 After the Spanish fashion. 

2 A late Latin form of insigne. 



20I 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

gentlemen came round, partook of the bread and 
cheese and each a glass of brandy. The ladies took of 
the bread and cheese, but not of the brandy. I never 
on any occasion saw a lady drink brandy. Various 
travelers have reported the contrary. During this pre- 
liminary repast all are standing and walking about 
without ceremony. In about ^ hour dinner was 
announced. The Governor desired me to hand in 
one of the ladies. I bowed to the new knight, inti- 
mating that he should take precedence, the honors of 
the day being due to him, but no, I was the stranger. 
I took the hand of the elder M'lle W., but she would 
not go before the lady from Stockholm ; the Governor 
led her, the rest followed as they pleased. Arrived in 
the dining room all stand round and silently say grace; 
thus at least the *4 minute of silence is supposed to be 
employed. You graceless huzzy would, I fear, employ 
it differently. I was contemplating la cadette. What 
so proper to inspire devotion ! Grace said, you bow 
to the host, the ladies, and to the company and take 
seats. The Governor placed me on his right hand ; 
M'lle on my right ; la cadette nearly vis-a-vis. You 
touch nothing ; ask for nothing ; every dish is handed 
round in succession ; you take or not ; if you see a 
favorite dish, you must wait till it comes round. The 
first thing is small slices of ham and salt fish, gener- 
ally with eggs ; (eggs began the Roman feasts — ab ovo 
ad mala 1 ) — then bouilli ; fish if any, then soup; (the 
servants give clean plates at every dish); then the roti 

I Latin. From the egg to the apples. The Latin proverbial expression meaning " from 
the beginning to the end ' was undoubtedly derived from the courses at dinner. 

101 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

and other dishes, one at a time and a second not 
offered till all have done with the preceding and all 
the plates changed. Bottles of wine and of water, 
glasses and tumblers are on the table ; during the 
repast, frequent libations ; much ease and cheerfulness; 
no healths drank ; in small social parties toasts are 
often given, in the odosie\ par example 2 , very often. 
After the meats, pastry and then fruits. We had to-day 
apples, gooseberries (large and excellent), and currants. 
The moment the eating is gone through, all rise ; 
everyone carrying his chair back to the wall. There 
is a sort of emulation in doing this with celerity and 
slight 5 ; no one turns his back. The servant took 
charge of my chair. All stand mute another y 2 minute, 
returning thanks, bow and salute each other again. 
The intimate friends kiss the hands of the ladies ; the 
children embrace the parents and each other. The 
ladies are then led to the parlour, where all assemble. 
Coffee is immediately served on a table at which one 
of the young ladies presides. It is carried round by 
the servants, or you may take it standing or sitting by 
the table. The latter is usually my mode, but on this 
occasion I was engaged on the other side of the room 
on the sofa with la cad. 4 What a quantity ! Dear 
soul, you must be surfeited with this feast. I was very 
glad to meet here the spokesmen or presiding judges 
of the two courts I had visited and I did not fail to 
compliment them on the decorum, the simplicity, and 



1 Possibly for Odyssey, Homer's great epic. 

2 For fay exemfle. For example. 
J Obsolete form for sleight. 

4 For la cadette. 



203 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

the dispatch which I had witnessed in their tribunals. 
I forgot to tell you that the dishes were cut up by the 
young ladies alternately ; a pretty serious labour when 
thirty-five guests. It is sometimes done by the serv- 
ants at a sideboard. The fashionable hour of dining 
is i. If the invitation extends only to dine, you are 
off at 5, which was the case to-day. The new knight 
engaged me to dine to-morrow, and A. E. Afzelius to 
supper and pass the evening. You see that my whole 
time is occupied until our departure, which will cer- 
tainly be Wednesday morning. The Governor to 
town the same day ; has frequently repeated that he 
will then have the pleasure of introducing me to his 

son, le Cbancelier de x , in whom he has justly 

great pride. At 7 to A. E. A. to talk law. The 
patience and cheerfulness with which he answers (in 
English, a language not very familiar to him) to all 
my inquiries. Passed two hours and with great satis- 
faction. Walked about town an hour ayant tro. din. z 
At 10 all is quiet ; you meet not a person in the street 
save the watchmen who sing out the hour and add in 
the same strain of melody a prayer for your good 
repose and security from fire and enemies. Note : 
La cad. has lost a little to-day; ovfc vova\ 

11. Much eating and drinking requires fumiga- 
tion and vigilance. Couche at 1. Rose at 6. At 10 
came the Professor Adam Afzelius to invite me to see 
his cabinet collected during ten years' residence at 



1 The Chancellor of . 

2 For ayant trop dine. Having eaten too much for dinner. 
} Greek. Probably means [she has] no mind. 



204 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Sierra Leona in the service of English society bearing 
that name as physician. He is now one of the profes- 
sors of botany in this university, is in his sixtieth year, 
and is the eldest of the three brothers ; a very sprightly 
man speaking very good English ; might pass for 46. 
It is to be regretted that his travels and discoveries 
have not been published and you will participate in 
that regret when you shall see the short notes which I 
have made (under this date) of his communications 
and of a few of the subjects shown in his cabinet. 
Was obliged to leave it at j4 P- 12 to dress for the 
knight's, J. Afzelius's, dinner, the invitation being for 
j4 P- !• At ^ p. 1 je my suis rendre 1 . I was the last 
and they had got through the bread and cheese course. 
T: The Governor; several professors; in all twelve; 
no dames, J. Afz. being gar con z . He is bon vivant 1 and 
has an excellent menge. et cuisinier*. The dinner such 
as might be expected. Rhenish and claret both very 
good. Pears, apples, melons, goosberries 5 ; currants, 
four sorts, one of very pale dim red, which we have 
not ; very common here. The first honors paid to 
Gamp. Dishes first presented to him, which I 
thought wrong, considering that the Governor is, in 
his government, the representative of majesty. Off at 
5. Home till x / 2 p. 6. Tavern bill for twelve days 
12 rix dollars 4 sch. I always talk in rixgalt 6 , unless 
banco be named. One rix dollar to dom. At 7 to 



1 Forje tnj suis rendu. I went thither. 

2 Bachelor. 

} A jolly companion. 

4 For jnenagere et cuisinier. Housekeeper and cook. 

; So in the MS. 

6 Burr comes nearest here to the correct spelling, which is riksgald. 



205 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Andreas Ericus Afzelius (the name of my friend the 
Har ads hof ding) to sup. T: The Governor ; his daugh- 
ter, la cadette ; Professor Afzelius, ux. and daughter, 
et autr. 1 ; all thirty. La cad. was beautiful ; said some 
smart things which almost redeemed the vov<j z . La 
Afzelius also pas avantageusement wise. 1 A very 
luxurious supper and excellent wines. Off at 10. 
La jeu. Madame Afzelius loses nothing. Les bouches 
des trois*. Further delays. My amiable friend the 
Haradshofding has continued employment for me to- 
morrow, his business requiring a delay till Thursday. 
In the Botanic Garden is an American black walnut 
tree ; the body about five inches in diameter ; very 
thrifty ; grown from a nut planted here ; the only tree 
of the kind which I have seen on this side of the 
Atlantic. 

23. Couche at 12. Rose at 6. Not the better 
for the intemperance ; indeed, I always suffer some 
slight inconvenience when I depart from my milk 
diet. At 9 to Professor Afzelius ; thence to J. Afze- 
lius to see his cabinet to which he has several times 
invited me, but I should first have told you that A. 
E. A. called at 8 to say that his brother would attend 
me all day and his gig at my service. It was proposed 

that I should go to to see the place (a parcel 

of great flat stones with Runic inscriptions) where the 
ancient Gothic Kings used to be crowned. At 10 
called to see this brother ; but he was not within. Do 



1 For et autres, and others. 

2 Probably meaning the [lack of] mind previously mentioned. 
J Madame Afzelius also not dressed to advantage. 

4 The mouths of the three. (The mouths of the three persons evidently appeared peculiar 
to Burr.) 

206 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

not regret it, having enough of occupation for the day 
without promenades. Shall stay at home, Qiitfillibonk, 
and make law notes. 

24 After writing you last evening had 2 * * :i: *' 
\^4 rix dollars, being exactly one-third of my whole 
stock ; there's prudence for you ! Last evening went 
to the landing with Mr. Torner as interpreter ; found 
two sloops going this morning; in one a pretty pay- 
sanne and no other passenger. The Haradshofding 
returned and says he will positively go at 10. Couche 
at y 2 p. 1 1 . Slept sound till waked by Haradshofding 
at 7. It is now 9. I am ready and waiting for the 
Judge. He has promised that we shall go first to see 
the goal 2 . Dub. 

25. Yesterday at 10 A. M., A. E. A. called with 
his relation, John, professor of chym. ? , greatly dis- 
tressed that an official duty of which he had no notice 
till 8 this morning obliges him to delay his journey till 
to-morrow morning. Invited me to go with him to a 
village only two miles off to see the manner of 
discharging the duty, &c. The subject is the division 
of a common among the parishioners ; agreed to go, 
but went first with Professor J. Afzelius to see his cabi- 
net, his mineralogical cabinet and laboratory. Two 
hours there and much amused. Complains that he can 
get nothing from America. At 12 with A. E. A. to 

. Walked ; warm weather ; found there two 

priests ; two of the assessors, several peasants. Whilst 



1 Undecipherable in the MS. 

2 So in the MS. He must mean gaol. 

5 So in the MS. Burr did not use the more modern form, chemistry. 



207 



Private y o u r 71 a I of Aaron Burr. 

they were talking over their business I went to see the 

tomb of who reigned . It is a tumulus 

about the size and the form of that which you saw at 
Cincinnati. It is placed on a rocky eminence ; has a 
fine view of the castle and cathedral of Upsala and of 
the orangerie 1 , which, though about 300 paces nearer 
than the castle, appears like one of its offices. We 
were at the house of a respectable farmer. On coming 
in, brandy, beer, and skolpen on the table, of which I par- 
took. At 1, brandy, beer, bread, cheese, another meal. 
About x / 2 p. 1 we were called into dinner. Brandy, 
bread and cheese again ; a very good dinner. The 
first course, as in town, was salt fish, ham, sausages 
with * * * * 2 beans nicely dressed; then, I forget 
what ; then fillibonk ; then roast chicken and ham. 
The business was settled with the utmost good humor. 
Home at 5. At 6 Mr. Torner invited me to visit the 
library again ; passed there two hours and took note, 
which you will see, of several books. Home at 8. 
Read till 1 1 in Coxe's volume on Sweden. Inter- 
rupted by an unexpected visitor ; unexpected and 
unsolicited; ^ rix dollar. Couche at 12. Lev. at y 2 
p. 7. My first business this morning was to examine 
into the state of finance to determine whether or not 
Gam. might dejeune 1 ; found that he could not. Con- 
tinued reading Coxe and finished the volume. He is 
more accurate and more intelligent than other of the 
travelers heretofore mentioned. Please to read him, 



1 Orangery. 

2 Undecipherable. The word looks like snip. 
J Breakfast. Should be the infinitive dejeuner. 



208 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

for I have been over much of the same ground ; seen 
the same things and some of the same persons. A. 
E. A. came in at 10 and says that he will call at i 
with his carriage and that we shall lodge to-night at 
Sigtuna. Adam Afzelius came in and gave me a mem. 
in his own handwriting and in English of the several 
articles from Africa respecting which I was most desir- 
ous to be informed. Then Professor A. with London 
papers to the 7th August ; offers me, as does Adam, 
all sorts of civilities. And now the clock strikes 1 
and I am looking out for my eschort 1 . 

Oeusterly, 2 August 25, 1809. Left Upsala at j4 
p. 3 with A. E. Afzelius, Haradshbfding of Upsala, in 
his coach (phaeton) with post-horses. Rode through 
this beautiful plain to Gamla Upsala, y 2 miles Swed- 
ish ; to Ugglesta Vail, 1 mile Swedish. The whole 
distance i]/ 2 miles Swedish, or 10 English miles. A 
cabin for post-horses and a cote 1 a very respectable- 
looking farm-house for lodging, &c, for travelers. In 
the garden plenty of currants and goosberries 4 with 
which made free. This indulgence is everywhere as 

with us. On to . Among the pictures are 

several said to be of the first masters. Was particu- 
larly struck with one of Aurora, Comtesse de 
Koningsmare, who frightened Charles XII.; wrapped 
in a silk manteau ; the bosom, the left foot, and right 
knee (and something more) bare ; in the open field, 
before sunrise, alluding to her name 5 . A fine land- 

I So in the MS. 



2 For Osterby. 

} For a cote. At the side. 

4 So in the MS. 

5 Aurora. 



209 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

scape. A portrait of Anne Bullein 1 , ux. Henry VIII.; 
beautiful and interesting. The chateau a large square 
building ; twenty-two steps to ascend to the first floor. 
Paid to the old woman. The chateau suffer- 
ing for want of repairs ; passed i x / 2 hours here. The 
plain narrows ; little rocky hills, but always small 
fertile spots highly cultivated, and excellent roads, not 
a stone as big as an egg. The next stage is i 1 /^ 
Swedish miles or 15 English miles. A peasant's 
house ; an air of comfort and plenty as in all. Got 
horses presently and on to Oerubro ; a very neat, com- 
fortable inn ; beds, maid, everything neat ; were all 
abed, but got up cheerfully and got us supper. A 
wild fowl, sort of grouse, fish, salad, and fillibonk. 
While supper was getting, we walked to the furnace. 
16. Couche at 12. I preferred to lay 2 on the 
sofa without undressing. The beds are too soft. At 
6 came in t\\t flika 1 with coffee. This is caff'e* and not 
breakfast, a little br'6. or skolpen is served with it. At 
8 walked over to the mines, two miles. (Note : Miles 
are always English miles unless I distinguish by S., 
which means Swedish.) This is a most beautiful 
village, and like that at Dannemora, is the property of 
the owners of the mines. All the streets with rows of 
trees ; the houses neat. For an account of the mines 
see a loose sheet in which the errors of writers of 
travels are corrected. The principal director not speak- 
ing English or French, he put me in the hands of the 

1 For Anne Boleyn, mother of Queen Elizabeth. 

2 Generally so in the MS. 

I For flicka. Girl, serving-maid. 

4 Probably for French cafe, coffee, though possibly meant for the Swedish kaffe. 

2IO 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

sub-director, Mr. , who has been in England. 

The doctor, brother of my compagnon de voy.\ devoted 
himself to my amusement. The mine is in constant 
danger of being overflowed by the lake ; this has 
twice happened ; the mine about 450 feet deep ; from 
the orifice you see bottom. They insist that this lake 
cannot be drained, which I deny, and can demonstrate 
that it can. We talked much of it and they listened to 
me with great attention. They bore logs (for conduit 
pipes) by hand with an auger, having no such machine 
as we used at New York for the Manhattan works. 
The doctor invited us to breakfast. It was a sump- 
tous feast of chicken, ham, fish, beans, salad, with 

dessert of preserved , a wild fruit which I found 

delicious ; other fruits and bonbons. Excellent ale, 
which is drank with sugar and water in my own mode. 
The sub-director played on the peasant's violin for me. 
The instrument with seven strings and sixteen keys ; 
only three strings are played on. Polonaise, the 
dance of the Norland peasants ; it is the waltz with 
varieties. A dance something like our contre dance 2 , 
whence, probably, the English country dance originated; 
very pretty and danced with great grace. A young 
peasant now played. On first coming to the director's 
house had heard the jungfru doing a few notes ; 
begged her to sing a song. Sang several. Marching 
and dancing in a circle ; erect, toes out, yeux baissees 1 . 
A fine Italian face. Danced with great grace and 

1 For compagnon de voyage. Travelling companion. 

2 Meant for contra-dance or country-dance. Burr's accent is wholly wrong, there being no 
accent over the e even in French, in which the word is contre-danse. 

} For yeux baiss'es. Eyes cast down. 

21 I 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

agility. Joanna ; hazel hair parted over the 

forehead and so just above the eyebrow over the ear, 
hanging in the neck ; ends in musa. Gave y 2 rix 
dollar. She took my hand gracefully, kissed it, bowed, 
and thanked me in the dialect of her country. Quitted 
with regret to see and hear the blasting, which is 
always at 12. The reverberations of the sound in this 
vast vault of solid rock are fine. The steam engine 
made in England. Makes no more noise than a house 
clock. The chateau ; pictures, faun surprising two 
sleeping beauties; bear fight. The stables 350 feet 
long. 

26. Skoklaster. 1 We left the chateau at dusk 
to seek our supper. It was good and abundant ; only 
the hard bread, however. Having eaten nothing the 
whole day save two very small skolpen and some goos- 
berries 2 , I did great honor to the supper. Je mangois 
comme gourmand 1 . Beds were provided for us in the 
house of the menagere*, a house twice as large as 
Richmond Hill 5 . The rooms spacious and well 
furnished. La menagere a smart, sensible woman, 
was all attention and civility. Couche at 11. Rose at 
5. Our coffee was served before we were dressed. It 
is much the custom to take it in bed ; a single cup ; far 
better than the drams and too much with us. I never 
saw in London a dram taken before coffee. With 
this coffee nothing is eaten ; it is always strong and 
well prepared ; equally well in the peasant's cottage. 

1 For Skokloster. 

2 So in the MS. 

J I ate like a gourmand (mangeais). 

4 For menagere. Housekeeper. 

5 His residence near New York. 

212 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

We returned to the castle. The library is said to con- 
tain 10,000 or 11,000 volumes, chiefly ancient; many 
are ancient manuscripts. The chateau, the furniture, 
the books, arms, and manuscripts are all entailed and 
cannot be alienated. The proprietor, Count Brahe, 
seldom visits this place, having two or three others, 
and no person is permitted to visit the library except 
on permission of the maitre d' hotel 1 , so that the con- 
tents are unknown. We visited also the chapel, which 
is built on the spot where stood the cloyster 2 whose 
ruins are still visible. The chapel is about the size of 
your churches ; is handsome without being magnifi- 
cent ; the organist played several tunes for us. The 
vaulted ceilings give a fine effect to the sound. At 
1 1 we went to seek our breakfast. It was sumptuous. 
La menagere, having learnt that I preferred the soft 
bread, had made some excellent and had in further 
compliment to my taste provided fish from the lake 
which is within 200 yards of the door. Ate as though 
I had not supped. At 12 embarked to return. A 
boat had been procured and awaited our orders. It is 
about three miles hence to the chateau of Rudbeck. 
The shores of the lake always riant 1 and picturesque. 
Walked to the post-house, ^ mile and at 1 set off. 
At 2 P. M. a ferry at which I was obliged to be ferry- 
man and hard work it was. Thence to the main road 
leading from Upsala to Stockholm, being about five 
miles. The road a little stony, being not much used 



1 For maitre d ''hotel. Steward. 

2 So in the MS. 

j Smiling, cheerful. 



213 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

and having been injured by the rains and being in the 
midst of harvest, the peasants had not yet found time 
to repair. Nevertheless that part of the ride is [ren- 
dered] beautiful by the varied landscape ; lakes, 
meadows, rich fields, rocks, hills, forests, all constantly 
and charmingly blended. 

[26. At Sigtuna.] But I forgot to tell you 
that Sigtuna is the most ancient capital of Sweden, 
centuries before Upsala. Tradition and what is called 
history relates that it was taken, sacked, and burnt by 
the Russians about 1,800 years ago. Very fine ruins 
of three ancient temples ; two of them, at least, are 
fine ; fifty or sixty feet in height of the turrets are 
standing ; several of the arches entire ; trees growing 
on the tops ; rude architecture. Of the date and par- 
ticular use of these temples even tradition is silent. 
We visited the church ; nothing very remarkable ; 
much of the material taken from the old temple, which 
stands near and is within the same enclosure. On 
many of the stones Runic inscriptions so defaced as to 
be illegible. The priest asleep kept us waiting two 
hours for the key. Goosberries and blackberries in the 
churchyard ; the latter tasteless. Left Sigtuna at 5, 
having taken there a dish of coffee and a skolpen, 
exactly our rusk. Everywhere, too, you get wafen* ; 
our wafles 2 , and made and eaten in the same way ; an 
iron cut in diamonds. Sigtuna is now an inconsider- 
able town of about 200 wooden (log) houses. 

Skokloster, August 26, 1809. At 3 P. M. yes- 



1 For vafflor. Waffles. 

2 So in the MS. 



214 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

terday the Haradshofding not appearing, went to his 
house ; found all ready ; took coffee with Madame. 

At y 2 p. 3 set off; at 5 arrived at , where we 

proposed to traverse the lake. Took boat at the 
chateau of Rudbeck, formerly Wetterstedt's, who 
exchanged fortune for titles. An old woman rowed 
us over, about one mile English, and we walked about 
\y 2 miles to the palace of Skokloster. From Rud- 
beck's gardener we had got currants, apples, and a 
melon. They were gathering vegetables for market. 
Cabbages of uncommon size for 5 sch. each ; paid a 
few sch. for our fruit. Leaving Upsala in this direc- 
tion you rise the hill on which is the castle and passing 
over the plain about 100 feet above the more exten- 
sive one to the north, you enter the park ; fine, lofty 
pines, about 5^ mile ; then four miles to the river 
Sala, which you cross in a scow ; three miles more to 
the post-house. Half a mile before reaching the ferry 
you are in sight of the lake and after crossing the river 
the road is parallel to the lake, distant perhaps half a 
mile. A gentle declivity. The country the whole 
way under high cultivation, interspersed with those 
little rocky hills and ledges which make it so pictur- 
esque. The chateau now Rudbeck's is very beauti- 
fully situated on a promontory extending one-quarter 
mile into the lake ; a long avenue of ancient trees ; 
the body of the house five windows each story, being 
two stories in front and three in rear. The wings, 
three windows each story ; a plain house ; many out- 
buildings give it the air of a village. Skokloster 



215 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

formerly a cloyster 1 of which the ruins are still visible. 

The present chateau was built by , about 

years ago. The four turrets about thirty-two feet 
diameter each ; octagon ; elevated a full story above 
the body of the building and again a dome and 
crowned with a sort of armillary sphere 2 . The main 

building a square of feet on each side and 

feet in depth, containing an open court ; below an 
arcade or open gallery all round ; beautiful little brass 
cannon on each side ; gallery in each story on the side 
of the court about twelve feet wide ; on each pier, six 
in each story, the portrait large as life of some distin- 
guished person, companion in arms or in council of 
Gustavus Adolphus. On the opposite side of the 
galleries, some historical paintings ; all painted on the 
walls ; mottoes in Latin, French, Italian, Swedish. 
The building is three lofty stories and an attic. The 
gobelins in many rooms are well preserved and very 
beautiful ; great number of paintings ; portraits, bat- 
tles ; historical pieces. Of Aurora Comtesse de Kon- 

ingsmare, by no means equal to that at . Ebba 

Brahe when a girl and when old woman ; General 
Wrangle in every possible way ; a picture of him on 
horseback large as life, underneath which is inscribed 
a complete history of his life. An equestrian statue in 
the apartment in the chapel where is his monument. 
The attic story is principally a place of arms ; ancient 
armour, spears, swords, bucklers, helmets, hung round 
with complete suits of armour, looking like so many 



1 So in the MS. 

2 A globe surrounded with circles. 



216 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

men in armour. Guns, fusees, pistols, and firearms of 
all sorts, used 1 50 years ago ; also wardrobes, boots, 
spurs, &c. Very few of the paintings of much value. 
The cabinet of ebony and ivory ; and another princi- 
pally ivory with a variety of jewels, trinkets, baubles. 
Four columns of two pillars each ; each column with 
pedestal and capital of one solid piece of marble. 
These and many of the other things were brought 
from Prague when taken by Gustavus Adolphus. 
The columns, made in Italy, were in the palace at 
Prague ; now supporting the arch of the vestibule. 
Bones found in Scania, believed to be human. A rib 
measured eight feet six inches, and is not entire ; a 

vertebra of the spine, inches in circumference ; 

near the same place was found a sword, here also kept, 
of singular construction ; about seven feet long and of 
a weight which could not be used by men of these 
days. 

Stockholm, August 27, 1809. It was j4 P- I2 
last night when we arrived. Being too late to go to 
my lodgings, i. e., being averse to wake my good old 
Anna, went with A. E. A. to a tavern in Stor Nyga- 
tan 1 . They put us three trappur upp z ; that is, in the 
fourth story. I was so weary and sleepy that I threw 
myself on the sofa without supper and without 
undressing and slept profoundly till near 6. Got up 
quite refreshed. Took one dish coffee at 7. To 
d'Aries's at 8. He and family a la campagne. Mr. 
Gransbom at home. Wrote Hosack to come to town 



1 Swedish for Great New street. 

2 Up three flights. 



217 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

and sent messenger with the note. Find here cards 
from Poppius and Daily ; met Governor Wetterstedt 
and Baron M'Lean ; that is not his name, nor do I 
know how to spell it. Hosack came in at 1 1 and at 
same moment my messenger with the letter, having 
missed him. Not a letter for him or me from any 
quarter ! Two American vessels in this harbour. 
The captain of one (Van Alen) gr. am. de. Ga. ; tons 
amice? . At i tea and skolpen for breakfast and middag z . 
Waited till ]/ 2 p. 5 for Hosack who did not come, 
though his own appointment. Walked out to Calberg ; 
out ; left card. To Eklin ; the ladies and the Hos- 
chells ; the Doctor abroad. Took tea and skolpen and 
off at 7. Home and couche at 11. 

28. I did lay down at 1 1 and got asleep, having 
slept very little the previous night. At 12 I waked 
in a fever and found myself devoured by bugs. Got 
up, lighted candle, and saw the bed alive. Being very 
sleepy, went into the next room and lay on the sofa. 
In a few minutes was attacked in a like manner. Got 
up again, lighted candle in despair and read till day- 
light. Lay down on three chairs, but could not sleep, 
so ordered breakfast. At 10 to wait on Governor 
Wetterstedt and his son the Chancellor ; out ; left 
cards. To Baron Engerstrom's ; out ; card. Baron 
Munck ; at Haga ; card. To Hedboom's ; went 
with his clerk to get guinea changed ; changed one 
for 8 rix dollars 36 sch. Home at 2. Found note 

1 Probably for grand ami \ de Gamp. Tous amicaux. (This form is, however, not good 
French.) The captain of one (Van Alen) a great friend of Gamp. All friendly. 

2 Swedish for midday. 

218 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

from Hosack that the Americans, Captains Van Alen 
and Barry and Mr. Robinson, all from New York, 
had agreed to meet me at dinner at Moysabacke to 
dine together aV americaine 1 on beefsteak, fish, and 
potatoes ; to rendezvous at his quarters ; the savage 
had not the grace to rendezvous at mine. Being very 
desirous of seeing these compatriots, as they are all 
said to be very friendly, went and had our dinner. 
Barry did not come, being unexpectedly called off on 
some business about his ship. Van Alen is from 
Kinderhook and connected with the family of Van 
Ness ; an intelligent, friendly young man ; the other 
a fine, handsome, sprightly youth. Our dinner in a 
saloon in the garden and being elevated about 150 or 
200 feet above the mass of the city, affords a most 
beautiful bird's-eye view of the town, harbour, and 
country. I had authorized Hosack to propose this 
dinner, as the Americans had expressed great desire to 
see me, but he managed so ill that they supposed they 
came to dine at my invitation and expense, of which I 
was ignorant till the moment of coming off; paid for 
the dinner exactly the proceeds of my guinea, 8 rix 
dollars 36 sch. Besides this, I did not treat them as 
my guests. Very little wine was called for and they 
must have thought it scurvy treatment. Alas, Mon. 
Gamp ! 2 Took tea at their quarters. Home at 7. 
Shall go early to bed to make up my long arrears of 
sleep. These Americans have been eight or nine 
months from the United States ; of course nothing 

1 For a la americaine. After the American fashion. 

2 For Monsieur Gamp. 

219 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

new. Note : Called this morning at General d'Hel- 
vig's ; the ladies still a la campagne and all well. 

29. I did go to bed at 10, promising myself a 
rich sleep. Lay two hours vigil 1 ; that cursed one 
single dish of tea ! Note : My bed had undergone a 
thorough ablution and there were no bugs or insects. 
Got up and attempted to light candle, but in vain ; 
had flint and matches but only some shreds of punk 
which would not catch. Recollected a gun which I had 
had on my late journey ; filled the pan with powder 
and was just going to flash it when it occurred that 
though I had not loaded it someone else might ; tried 
and found in it a very heavy charge ! What a fine 
alarm it would have made if I had fired ! Then 
poured out some powder on a piece of paper, put the 
shreds of punk with it and after fifty essays succeeded 
in firing the powder ; but it being dark, had put more 
powder than intended ; my shirt caught fire, the 
papers on my table caught fire, burnt my fingers to a 
blister (the left hand, fortunately) ; it seemed like a 
general conflagration. Succeeded, however, in lighting 
my candle and passed the night till 5 this morning in 
smoking, reading, and writing this. " Essai sur le 
Car act ere, les Moeurs et /' 'esprit des Femmes" 2 . Par 
M. Thomas; second edition, Paris: 1772; small 
octavo, 215 pages. Well written; much historical 
information ; many books, of which I had not heard, 
are quoted. He meant to be liberal and [a] friend to 



1 This word, which has been used several times, is a Latin adjective meaning wakeful. 

2 " Essay on the Character, the Morals (or Manners), and the Mind of the Women." 



220 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

the sex, but like all I have read, has set out wrong ; 
has not seen the source of the evil, though the evils 
are acknowledged, and of course has not found the 
remedy ; this will remain for Gamp. " 'Tableau Lit- 
ter aire de la France pendant le i8me. siecle." Sujet 
propose en 1806 par la Classe de la langue et de la litter a- 
ture 1 . Paris: 1807. Octavo; 91 pages; close printed; 
anon. This I presume to be a sort of prize piece. 
It is well written ; his distinctions are pretty good but 
his eulogies extravagant. " Le Voyageur Fataliste"; 
comedie en trois actes en vers 1 ; par Armand Char- 
lemagne ; Paris : 1 806. I had foresworn French 
comedies and hate comedy in verse ; this, though 
long, was not found tiresome. " Rapprochement des 
Arbres" 1 . Duodecimo, about 150 pages. Paris: 1807; 

par . Where have I laid that book? Will find 

it to-morrow and give you the author's name. It is a 
new discovery by which you give to any tree the sap 
and nourishment of another or of some branch of 
another, and by this means you may change and 
improve the colour •, size, and flavour of any fruit. The 
results are curious and useful ; pray try it. You see, 
Madame, I have not been idle ; now allow me to 
attempt sleeping. 

29. P. M. Slept very well till 10 when Mr. 
D. came in a la souedoise 4 on some very urgent message, 
which I answered only by a round of curses. How- 



1 " Literary Picture of France During the Eighteenth Century." A Subject Proposed 
(propose) by the Class in Language and Literature [of the French Academy]. 

2 " The Fatalistic Traveler." A comedy in verse in three acts. 
} " The Bringing Together (Junction) of Trees." 

4 For ii la su'edoise. After the Swedish fashion. 



221 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

ever, I was waked and got up. Took breakfast at \i. 
Feuillied 1 (rummaged) in the library for two or three 
hours (there is an arrival of new books from Paris); 
then walked out with Gransbom to try the market for 
guineas; changed four at 8 rix dollars 36 sch. each. 
Waited an hour for Barth without success. Called at 
the post-office ; no letters. No doubt my letters are 
stopped by the British government ! 'Tis impossible 
that every human being can have forgotten me for four 
months. For my female friends I would swear, but 
what remedy. Me voici z . Post I will go off to Ham- 
burg or Memel. As soon as I can find Barth will 

hunt for passages to everywhere and then 

determine. Called at the lodgings of Bar. Ulf- 
spasre, for whom I had a letter from London and 
just now determined to deliver it ; has left town. 
Home at 6. On the way called to see Captain Van 
Alen. Mjolk and brb. for middag and aft on 1 . Read an 
hour or two in "L'ltineraire de V Allemagne " 4 ; Paris : 
1807. You see I am preparing! Read also a 
treatise (French) on the authority of parents, i. e.> 
fathers, for women are not in question. Cannot 
now lay hand on it to give you the title, but will find 
it. The subject was proposed by the Institut 
National and this book gained the approbation and 
the prize. In my opinion no way flattering to the 
genius of the nation. There is, indeed, a good deal 
of historical fact, but much declamation and flourish. 



1 Another hybrid verb, and badly formed, from French feuilleter, to turn over the leaves of 
a book. 

2 Here I am. 

J Swedish. Evening. 

4 " Itinerary of Germany." 

Ill 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

30. Couche at 12. Rose at y 2 p. 5. Yesterday 
an officer (yieux militairey called to consult me about 
seeking employment in the United States, which I 
flatly discouraged. He wishing a further conversation, 
appointed 9 this morning. At 8 called on Baron 
d'Albedhyll ; out ; left card. On Governor Wetter- 
stedt, whom found dressing. On Doctor Gahn ; 
engaged to dine with him to-day at Eklin. Home 
before 9 to meet the Swedish officer. On opening my 
door found him seated, though I had the key in my 
pocket, at which I made great eyes. He apologized. 
Told him that Hosack had served in the United 
States army and knew more about the subject of his 
enquiry; gave him the address of Hosack and a line 
of introduction. At 10 to Breda's to pay my respects 
to the picture ; found it in good order and looking, 
alas, I fear, very different from the original 2 . Found 
Barth's lodgings and left card. To Baron Munck's ; 
still at Haga ; card. To Professor Arnt's ; that, 
however, was yesterday ; at Haga ; left card. To 
Wennerquiest's, but I got to the door, altered my 
mind. Met in the street la belle Mari, of Lil. Ny- 
gatan' ; " Naen 4 ." Home at 1 and found Barth's 
card. He had already returned my visit and left word 
that he would call again to-morrow morning. Walked 
to Eklin ; found, as always, a good dinner and good 
wine ; we were en fami lie. Home at 7 to meet A. E. 
Afzelius, who left town on Sunday and promised to 

1 An old soldier. 

2 The reference is to the picture of his daughter Theodosia. 

1 For Lilla Nygatan. Little New Street — a street not far from Burr's Stockholm residence. 
4 Marie said " No." The Swedes say nej or in popular slang nit. Perhaps Marie uttered 
the German negative nein, which Burr spelled phonetically. 

223 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

call on me this evening, but he has not come (8 P. M.) 
3 1 . After quitting you last evening at 8 I foeul- 
lied 1 in the bibliotheque z for occupation for the night 
and brought to my room a new novel and a recent 
voyage of discovery to the S. Seas, having determined 
for manifest reasons to read till 2. " Hotel Garni " ? , 
par Madame Sur ; two volumes, small octavo ; about 
300 pages each; Paris: 1800; which I read through. 
It is made up of digressions ; stuffed with trite re- 
marks ; no novelty in the incidents ; in short, a trifling 
thing. Couche at 2. Lev. at 6. At 9 came Barth. 
His plans are altered. He goes to England, which I 
regret, for I had a secret intention of going with him 
to Konigsberg. I commissioned him to procure me 
information of vessels going to Wismar. Afzelius 
not having come last evening as was promised, went 
to his lodgings ; could hear nothing. To the post- 
office ! nothing ! Strolled about for an hour or two 
without object. Home at 12. Baron d'Albedyhll 
came in and sat an hour. Read in " Le Voyage aux 
Mers Australes"*. 

Stockholm, September 1, 1809. Couche at 12. 
Lev. at 6. At 8 came in Barth. Brought list of four 
vessels for Wismar and gave me the name of a ship 
broker whom he had engaged to attend to my orders. 
Sor. at 1 1 with Gransbom. To lodgings of Afzelius ; 
not arrived. To Hedboom's ; Mr. , his book- 
keeper, returned ; gave him the list of the four 

1 See Glossary under feuiliied. 

z For bibliotheque Library. 

} For" Hotel Garni." " Furnished House." 

4 " Voyage to the Southern Seas." 

2 24 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Wismar vessels and desired him to go on board, 
enquire price, see accommodations, &c. He engaged 
most cheerfully to get the information and make his 
report to-morrow morning. If he should be punctual 
he is not Svenska ! ' Rencontre. Swindled out of i 
dollar pour rien z . Met Baron Munck's dom.; learned 
that Madame had lain in of a dead child. I do most 
sincerely sympathize with that amiable [pair]; they 
have been twelve or fifteen years married and no child ; 
so many fond hopes have been raised on this pros- 
pect ! Home at i. Found young Robertson or 
Robinson of New York waiting to see me. It is an 
amiable, intelligent, well-behaved young man. Wrote 
by Barth to William Graves, enclosed duplicate of my 
letter of July 31st and of the letter to Swartwout 
introducing Barth to Graves ; carried my letter to 
Barth's lodgings and there left it, he being out. Yes- 
terday gave him my map of Great Britain. At 6 to 
Popplius's. Took tea faible 1 with Madame at 7. 
Walked till dark. Met Bergstrbm, who invited me to 
a bal\ refused. Home and read in my " Voyage aux 
Mers Australes" till 12. 

2. Couche at x / 2 p. 12. Rose at 7 ; at 10 had 
finished " Le Voyage de Decouverts aux Terres Austra- 
les in 1800, 1 801, 1802, 1803, 1804"; fait par ordre 
de F Empereur ; redige par M. F. Peron ; torn, ime. 4 ; 
quarto; 500 pages ; Paris: 1807. Have been amused, 



1 For svensi. Swedish. 

2 A rencounter. Swindled out of I dollar for nothing. 

3 Weak tea. 

4 " Voyage of Discovery to the Southern Lands in iSoo," etc. Made by order of the Em- 
peror. Edited by M. F. Peron. Volume I. (Should be tome premier). 



11$ 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

particularly with his account of New South Wales. I 
mean the English settlements at Port Jackson, Botany 
Bay, &c. This work will probably consist of many 
volumes, of which only the first has reached me. Sent 
Anna to hunt up la Han. 1 See June 10. It is no 
easy matter, ma Min. % ^ to determine how to dispose of 
myself. Why stay here ? To be sure I am unmo- 
lested and live at no great expense, but tern, fug? and 
nothing done. When I came here it was with 
intent to stay till answers should be received to my 
letters written to the United States. The moment of 

leaving London, and . Just there it was 

announced to me that a lady in the library wished to 
speak to me. " What sort of lady ?" " Young and 
beautiful." In truth, she is very pretty ; not at all a 
Swedish face ; an aquiline nose, seems a little turned ; 
blue eyes, very fair, very black hair and eyebrows ; 
speaking svenska* and a little French. The pretence 
(perhaps the real object) of the visit to inquire about 
certain friends in England and the means of getting 
there. On my remarking that she could not from her 
appearance be Swedish, she said she was born in Peters- 
burg, and left me her address. A sad interruption this 
to the calculations I was about to make ! The summary 
is that I am resolved to go without knowing exactly 

why or where. Mr. , as was predicted, has 

not brought me the report of vessels. The facility of 
getting to a particular place may of itself determine 



I For la Hanovrienne. 

z Probably for ma Minerve. My Minerva. 

3 For tempus fugit. Latin. Time flies. 

4 Swedish. 



226 



Private Journal of A ar o ?i Burr . 

my course. To be sure the embarras 1 of traveling on 
the Continent is very great, but I am in utter despair 
of receiving letters through England. Evening : I 
have been to Hedboom's to see the book-keeper; 
out, and nothing done. Went on to see la Russe z ; 
found her toilette very prettily made and she engaged 
on a piece of embroidery ; a most convenient visit ; 
too much to write. Home at 7. Have been rum- 
maging in the library and have brought into my room 
" La Dot de Gazette "; a roman % and Montesquieu's 
" Grandeur and Decline of the Roman Empire." 

3. Couche at 1. Rose at 9. Of this time, how- 
ever, lay two or three hours without sleeping, having 
taken some very weak tea in the evening, having dined 
to-day and yesterday on br'6 och wattn 4 ; two days pre- 
ceding on mjolk koka. Went this morning before break- 
fast with Mr. Gransbom as interpreter to hunt vessels. 
Went on board several from Wismar and that quarter. 
Not one would take a passenger by reason, they say, 
of the great difficulties to which it exposes the ship. 
The French, they say, are very strict and very suspi- 
cious and suffer no passenger to land till after great 
inquiry. I do not believe all this. Read last evening 
and this morning about 100 pages in Montesquieu and 
finished <c La Dot de Gazette." It is a small octavo, 
237 pages, Paris: 1803. Anonymous but said to be 
written by a lady. It is a pretty little tale. Read 
also " Le Conteur ou Les Deux Post" s ; trois actes ; 

1 The embarrassment. 

2 The Russian lady. 

J " Gazette's Dowry "; a romance. 

4 For brid och vatten. Swedish. Bread and water. 

5 " The Story-teller, or The Two Posts " {Postes). 

227 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

prose; par L. B. Picard ; Paris: an. VIII; very tri- 
fling, but as a trifle, tolerable. Walked out 5. 
Swindled out of another dollar pour rien absolument. 
* * * * with 2 avants; /, 15; V aut 22; 1 y 2 d. 1 Bru. 
och wattn pr. din. Ost soc.-watn. koka bru fer afton z . 
At 6 young Robertson came in. He also had under- 
taken to hunt passages for Calserona and Wismar and 
came to report that there were many small sloops for 
Calserona but too small and dirty to be thought of. 
To-morrow I will set Hosack at work. Only think, 
I have not seen him since Monday last, seven days ! 
Called this afternoon on Baron d'Albedyhll to arrange 
about a trip to Drottningholm. He objects to my 
mode of traveling and is to look out for other and 
more rapid means. And now (8 P. M.) I am going to 
read any nonsense. You perceive that A. E. Afzelius 
has not returned. I much fear that he has gone some 
other route to Upsala, which would be a very great 
disappointment to me, for I have notes of a hun- 
dred questions to ask him. 

6. It is three days since I have written you. 
What is on t'other side this leaf was probably intended 
for Sunday the 3d. On Monday went to hunt vessels. 
Baron Wetterstedt made a friendly visit. Dinner, 
wattn och bru. Tea F apresmidi 1 which, as usual, kept 
me awake all night. The bank will give out no more 
silver or gold. With difficulty I got the value of 2 

1 For Pour rien ahsolumcnt, * * * * with deux avcntures. Vune \ag'ee de\ 15 
[arts] ; Vautre [de] 22 ; \% dollars. For absolutely nothing. (Undecipherable word) with two 
adventures; the one aged 15 and the other 22. 

2 For briid och vatten pour diner; ost, sockervatten, haha, brod for a/ton [maltid]. Bread 
and water for dinner; cheese, sugar-water, cake [perhaps milk-cake], bread for supper. 

J For I y afres-midi. Afternoon. 

228 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

dollars. Hosack called in the afternoon with invita- 
tion from Captain Barry to dine with him on board 
his ship to-morrow. This morning, too, (Monday), I 
had a visit, unexpected ; unsolicited ; not unwelcome ; 
i rix dollar. Tuesday. Got up late, and, for reasons 
unknown, in very bad order. Heated, nerves tremor ; 
no appetite for breakfast, which is unusual. Went 
abroad, however, at 11. Called on Baron Enger- 
strom ; out. On Mr. Brooks. At 1 to Captain Van 
Alen's quarters to go with him to Barry's. There 
were five Americans and three Englishmen. About 
5 P. M. came in Major Nordforss et ux. and M'lle 

{Fruka 1 being noble) ; both handsome; the 

latter an air of delicacy, &c; the former very lively 
and speaking French and Spanish. After coffee went 
with them to a house and garden of their relation 
about a mile lower down. The garden is extremely 
picturesque and being on that lofty ridge which bounds 
the harbour on the right, elevated about 150 feet 
above the water, affords as fine a view as Morsebaka. 
Gathered fruits ; much romping and coquetry. Went 
home with Madame N. and engaged to see her at 12 
to-morrow. Home at 8. Mr. Dorrell, one of the 
Englishmen, engages me to dine with him to-morrow. 
On getting home found all my maladies exceedingly 
increased. A very quick pulse, agitation of nerves, 
and burning hot, though the weather is quite cold, and 
I had drunk very little wine. Withal, a sort of exal- 
tation of tete 1 , which altogether distressed me exceed- 

1 For Swedish Fr'ohen. Lady. Formerly this title was applied to an unmarried lady of 
noble birth. In later times it is synonymous with English Miss or German Fraulein. 

2 The head. 

229 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

ingly ; pains in every bone. The family of d' Aries 
are in the country. Mr. Gransbom out. No means 
of explanation with old Anna. Not a lime, or lemon, 
or anything else to be had at this hour. Ordered hot 
water and Sw. trinka l > of which with sugar drank 
copiously, but no relief; though lay in bed, exceed- 
ingly restless. Took thirteen drops of laudanum, the 
greatest dose I ever took ; and finding sleep quite 
out of the question, got up, dressed, and read a long, 
dull comedie, " Le Jaloux" 2 , 120 pages, close print. 
About 2 A. M. a little relieved. Went to bed ; slept 
about four hours and got up well. There prevails in 
this city a malignant fever, which frequently has 
carried off persons in two or three days. Having 
been often in the quarter most infected with this dis- 
ease, no doubt I had caught it, and I have given you 
this detail to show how very slightly any such disease 
can affect me. I disclosed to no one that I was sick. 
A sick man is a very contemptible animal. Owing to 
very temperate habits, my constitution affords no 
pabulum to such diseases. 

6. Rose at 7. At 10 to d'Albedyhll's; out. To 
General d'Helvig's ; out. At 12 to Madame Nord- 
forss. Staid an hour. Ne soutint la 2me Vu? ; 
engaged to go with her to the play to-morrow evening. 
At 2 to Hosack's to get him to show me to Wor- 
rell's, who is at lodgings. We were at table five 
Americans, two English, and five Swedish, among the 

1 For svagdrieka. Small or weak beer. 

2 " The Jealous Man." 

J Probably for [elle] ne soutint [/><"] la deuxieme vue. She didn't appear so well on a 
second view. 

230 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

latter a merchant from Nordkeeping 1 of prepossessing 
appearance ; a brother of Bergstrbm, also merchant ; a 
Finland merchant. Came off at *4 P- 5> the guests 
appearing disposed to drink al ' 'angloise. Was engaged 
to tea with Madame Daily, but did not go, being out 
of order. Passed the evening in reading and project- 
ing my intended journey. Called on Baron Enger- 
strom to-day. He offered me letters to Prussia, where 
he had resided as minister. 

7. Couche at 1. Rose at 6. At */£ p. 8 to 
Baron d'Albedyhll's; out. To Madame Daily's, who 
engaged me to dine to-day en fam. precisely at 1. On 
my way to Hosack rem. 17. Pas ma.; 1 r. d. 2 To 
Hosack. Mr. Robertson has found a vessel bound to 
Pillau. Home at 1. Passed % hour reflecting on 
the real value of a dollar. To Madame D.'s at 1. 
Mr. not come in and no preparations for dinner. It 
seems he had invited two guests, one at 3 ; the other 
x /z p. 3. The first came punctually at 3. At x / 2 p. 3 
sat down to dinner. The other guest, purser of a 
man-of-war, came at 4. They are a couple of pleasant, 
well-disposed Englishmen. Off at 6. To Madame 
Nordforss. Y: La fruk'n 1 and Captain Barry. To 
the com'e 4 . We were in the amphitheatre, which is the 
rear part of what you would call the pit, raised and 
railed ; a very commodious place indeed. Sat next a 
well-dressed man wearing some badge of nobility, who 
claimed my acquaintance. Was very much amused, 

1 For Norrkbping > 

z For rencontre [agee de] 17. Pas mauvaiie or mal ; I rix dollar. A rencounter. Age 17. 
Not bad ; I rix dollar. 

3 For la frlien. French and Swedish. The lady previously mentioned. 

4 For comedie. Comedy. 

231 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

both with the farce and comedy, though all pantomime 
to me. The farce is first acted. M'lle Vascalia sings 
well and has a good form ; moves with grace and is 
thought handsome. A little paysanne\ lately come on 
the stage, pleased me much. The performance closed 
about 10. Home with Madame, sans entrer z and then 
chez moi. 

8. Couche at 12. Rose at 6. At 9 to Baron 
d'Albedyhll; out. I want to see him to project our 
tour to Drottningholm. To Helvig's; no one at 
home. To Captain Van Alen's ; he, Robinson, and 
Hosack live together. Home at 1. Much heated, 
the day being warm. Threw off" my coat and sat 
down near the window to read " Tableaux de la 
Nature" 1 ; two volumes by A. d' Humboldt. One of 
the upper sashes of my window is always open. Got 
much engaged with my book till about 3 found 
myself extremely uneasy with pains in my left shoul- 
der and breast. Attempted to rise, but unable till 
after various efforts and much pain. Whilst I had 
been sitting under the window the weather had changed 
and become quite cool, and the wind was on my side 
of the house. Hot water, beer, and sugar, with the 
application of flannel perfectly relieved me before 
morning. Take care that you don't commit such a 
folly ! 

Drottningholm, September 9, 1809. Rose at 8 
perfectly relieved of my rheum. Resolved to go to 



1 Peasant woman or girl. 

2 Without going in. 

} " Pictures from Nature." 



232 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Drottningholm. Sent my little paquet 1 by Mr. d'A., 
who goes with his family. Called to take leave of 
Madame Daily who leaves town to-morrow for Goth- 
enburg, and at i marched off with my umbrella, my 
pipe and tobacco (having taken about Y / 2 pint of rice 
and milk for dinner). Arrived at y 2 p. 5 and stopped 
at a tavern near General d'Helvig's to get a messenger 
to take the note, q. v. Could not make myself 
understood. Hearing company in an adjacent room, 
opened the door and asked if any gentleman present 
could speak French. Several offered and by the 
means of one, got a messenger and gave instructions. 
This mode of getting an interpreter could not be 
practiced in England, but might in Scotland. My 
messenger returned in a few minutes with verbal 
answer, that General d'Helvig and Fruken ImhofP 
were just going to take a ride on horseback and would 
call at the tavern door and see me. I was glad of the 
occasion to see M'lle on horseback. They came 
immediately. M'lle a cheval en cavJ sat gracefully and 
looked very, very well. They spoke of Madame 
d'Helvig as being extremely weak but no longer in 
danger. We talked two or three minutes ; at parting 
the General said he hoped Madame would very soon 
be well enough to receive her friends ! This was a 
shower-bath ! You will recollect that I had walked 
eight miles ; that I was then within 200 yards of the 
house of General H., which house consists of two 
buildings quite detached from each other ; in the one 

1 Bundle. 

2 For Fr'dten Imhoff. Lady Imhoff. 

5 For a cheval en cavalier. On horseback trooper fashion. 

*33 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr. 

are bedrooms, &c; in the other, the hall, dining room, 
&c; company is always received in this last. It is 
unnecessary to remind you that Mr. H. has two sisters, 
Mary Ann and Louisa. It is my custom after walk- 
ing immediately to change my clothes ; but my clothes 
were at Mr. d'A.'s, six miles off and I had sat half an 
hour in the tavern ; found stiffness and pain in my 
hips and loins, otherwise should have gone instantly 
to Stockholm again ; but went to the bath ; could not 
have warm water till 8 to-morrow morning. Went on 
to d'A.'s ; took tea and afterwards supper. In much 
pain, which aided the reflections of how that pain was 
acquired, viz., the walk, and what was the walk for ? to 
see my friends, &c. And thus is dissolved all inter- 
course with a family which I have seen with unusual 
interest. Mary Ann and Louisa are in different ways 
very superior women. They would merit distinction 
in any country ; of the former I have spoken to you 
much and could have said more, much more. The 
latter I saw but once ; the day of which I gave you an 
account (M. A. 1 cannot be to blame) ; at another time 
you shall have a detailed picture of both. God bless 
them ! To-morrow, immediately after breakfast, I am 
off, if able to walk. If not, I shall wait at the lakeside 
till some boat shall pass. 

Stockholm, September 10, 1809. Couche at 11. 
Rose at 7. Could scarcely get out of bed. To the 
bath at 8 ; staid in ^ hour and found myself very 
much relieved. Breakfast at d'A.'s. While at break- 
fast the beautiful little dom. of H. called with a note 



1 For Mary Ann. 

234 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

which he said was from Fruken Imhoff. It was an 
invitation to dine, but not exactly in ordinary terms. 
I replied that in case of passing the day in Drottning- 
holm, which, however, was not intended, I was 
engaged but that I would call before dinner. I was 
not, in fact, engaged to dine. Went at \i. M. A. 1 
received me ; considers me in some sort her property; 
after y 2 hour came L. 2 We walked in the garden. 
They culled fruits for me. Many civil messages from 
Madame, who is alite 1 (I suppose a fausse coucbe 4 ). 
Announced my determination to leave Sweden, which 
was approved with politeness and something more. 
Offered letters to their German friends ; urged much 
my dining, which refused obstinately. Came off at 2. 
On my way to H.'s called to see my amiable friend 
Mr. de C, who walked with me through the Kongl. 
Jurgardn 5 as far as the Palace. To dinner with the 
d' Aries. Coffee with Madame de C. and then walked 
home, with stopping to smoke a pipe by the way 
according to custom. On my arrival at home at j4 P- 
6, I learn with surprise that all the ports on the south 
side the Baltic from Stralsund inclusive west are shut 
against Sweden. Another interruption to my plans, 
for it was my project to land at Wismar and thence to 
Hamburg. 

1 1. Last evening by way of delassment 6 took tea. 
It is very usual here to put brandy in the tea ; a sort 
of tea toddy. It occurred to me that this expedient 

1 For Mary Ann. 

2 For Louisa. 

3 For alite. Bed-ridden. 

4 A miscarriage. 

5 For Kongliga Djurgarden. 

6 For d'elassement. Relaxation. 

*3S 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

might prevent its effect on the nerves ; so sent out 
Anna to buy some French brandy, an article to be had 
only at the apothecary's. I drank my tea, putting in 
each cup a tablespoonful of brandy. Couche at 1 1 . 
Presently found I should not sleep. Got up, lighted 
my candle, dressed, took thirteen drops of laudanum 
and fell to reading ; at 3 went to bed again, but no 
sleep ; lay till past 6 ; then got about two hours' sleep 
and rose at 8. To Hosack's at 10. Mr. Robinson 
says that he finds that there is a daily passage boat 
between Helsingborg in Sweden and Helsingor on the 
opposite coast in Denmark, distance across being only 
two or three leagues ; that with a Swedish passport 
there is no difficulty ; so at once I resolved to take 
this route. Home at 1. At 4, rice, which Anna 
made very good with raisins and plums ; then to 
Robinson's again. He persists in the information 
given this morning. Thence to Hedboom's to get 
him to enclose my letters to England, being convinced 
that my former ones have been stopped. Wrote at 
Hedboom's to Achaud and to Graves, desiring them 
to forward my letters under cover to William Gibson, 
merchant, Goteborg, " at which place I should be to 
receive them." Home at 6. Read as usual. A wet, 
chilly day, like our N. E. storms. 

12. Couche at ]/ 2 p. 10. Rose at 8. At 12 to 
Madame Daily's ; she has actually left town. To 
Baron Engerstrbm's ; out ; he will be in at 2. To 
Breda's to see your picture and to talk to him. He 
is one of the most sensible, well-bred men I meet ; his 

236 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

son, too, only 21, is a youth of extraordinary talents 
and amiable disposition. At 1 to Engerstrbm's again ; 
either out or not visible ; am to call at x / 2 P- 9 to- 
morrow morning. Home y 2 p. 1. A drizzly rain, 
chilly wind, and to console us they say that two or 
three weeks of such weather is usual about this season. 
Rice at 4. 

Gothenburg, October 7, 1809. Slept last evening 

at , where we arrived at 11, the family all in 

bed. The maid got up, made us fire, got an excellent 
supper, and clean beds, and all with a cheerfulness 
which gave value to our supplies. Our last coachman 
was again a girl ; a very pretty girl of about 16. She 
drove us most rapidly, and with boldness and skill. 
Sam himself could not have done better; nor here so 
well, for it was very dark. She returned immediately, 
having a horse to lead. We had ordered horses at 5 
this morning. At 6 we set off, and got here (fourteen 
miles) at Y / 2 p. 8. Drove to the post-house. Not a 
room or bed to be had ; not even a place to sit down 
and take breakfast. We were cold and hungry, and 
were till 10 cruising about town before we could get 
admission into a house. We engaged a room, i. e. y 
one corner of it, for it was a public room, for two 
hours, with promise of breakfast. We ate so enor- 
mously that we were charged 1 j4 rix dollars each for 
our breakfast, being just three times the usual price. 
Wrote notes to Lord Nordenschold 1 and young 
Damon, requesting aid to procure lodgings, as we must 

I One of several unsuccessful attempts to spell Nordenskjold. 

237 



Private jf o u r n a I of A ar o ?i Burr. 

otherwise go into the street at 12. Neither of them 
came ; but my indefatigable companion found two 
decent rooms at 27 Torg Gatan 1 , two trappar upp 1 ! 
at 10^ rix dollars per week, more than double the 
price of Stockholm. This place is just now very full 
of strangers, particularly English. There were more 
than twenty of them in and out of the room while we 
were breakfasting, God-damning everything that was 
not exactly as in England. Got settled in our quarters 
by 1 o'clock, and sent my letters to the Governor and 
to others, with a card in each, a la mode soedoise\ a 
mode which I approve. Now, I engage that neither 
of the three takes the least notice of the letter or card. 
Sent my card also to the Lieutenant N. Called at 
Edin's, where I lodged on my arrival here from Eng- 
land in May, to see the family. La belle M. is much 
altered. Very thin and eruption a la figure*. Wrote to 
Captain Van Alen and to Gransbom q. v. by the mail. 
Took tea at 7, having dined at our enormous break- 
fast. Our hostess speaks English, being of an Eng- 
lish mother. Is neat, active, obliging. In the after- 
noon walked with Liming to the port, about two Eng- 
lish miles. Missed the way and walked double the 
distance. Laughed at Luning's distress at passing 
through some ill-looking alleys and streets. Sent card 
this evening, with my address, to General Consul 
Gram, who is still here. You may recollect that I saw 
him about ten days ago, and that he undertook to pro- 

1 Market Street. 

2 Two flights up, ('. «., third story. 
j After the Swedish fashion. 

4 For eruption a la figure. The face broken out. 

238 



Private journal of Aaron Burr . 

cure passports for me from the Danish government, to 
be sent to Helsingborg, so that I might not be 
detained there. 

8, though I think it must be the 9th of Octo- 
ber. Will ask some learned man in the course of the 
day. Couche at ]/ 2 p. 11. Rose at 8. Mr. Gogle, 
of Frankfort, a very pleasant, well-bred young man, 
lodges on the same floor with us ; claims my acquaint- 
ance, and is extremely obliging. Sor. at 10 to find 
out Daily. Got his address. Wrote notes to Dr. 
Shulzen, to Gibson, and to Damm, inquiring for let- 
ters. Verbal answers that they have none. Our 
landlord is a bookbinder. Gave him all Bentham's 
small works and " Panoptique" 1 to bind. They had 
suffered, and were in danger of being abimed 1 . Yes- 
terday opened your picture. It is in perfect order. 
Liining's contrivance had secured it completely from 
the dust. Since opening it at [Stockholm] I have 
carried it the whole way (two hundred miles) on my 
lap. Indeed, Madame, you gened 1 me not a little. You 
are now hung up in my room, so that I can talk with 
you. Poin. de a/ton 4 . Walked to the harbour at 4. 
Met Daily, and also the captain with whom I came 
from Harwich. He seemed quite alarmed, and looked 
about, the few minutes I detained him, to make some 
inquiries, as if he was afraid of being seen. He has 



I The " Panoptique" or " Panopticon " was one of Bentham's works, published in 1 791, per- 
haps better known as The Inspection House. It was a plan of making convicts useful, 
z Another hybrid perfect participle made from the French verb abimer, to ruin. 

3 A hybrid verb which we have already met, meaning bothered. 

4 Probably for poindre de a/ton. The evening begins to break. The French might say 
La nuit commence a poindre, although this word is ordinarily used with reference to the dawn. 
The reader will mark that it is now October, and the night sets in very early. 



2 39 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

probably learned how dangerous, &c. The streets of 
the lower town full of drunken English sailors. Home 
at 6. Tea. Liining came in at 7. His whole time 
seems to be employed in my concerns. He discovers 
my wants, and, without saying a word to me, makes 
them his own business. This afternoon he has pro- 
cured me a traveling companion ; a German gentle- 
man, who speaks the Swedish, going to Copenhagen, 
and to set off on Tuesday, but will wait a day or two 
for me if requisite ! He (Liming) has also found 
Dutch ducats, for which I can exchange the small sum 
of Swedish paper I have on hand. On our arrival our 
passports were sent to the police for inspection as the 
law requires. They were brought back this morning. 
The bearer demanded 36 sch. each for his trouble. 
Apropos of passports : On our way from Stockholm 
at a town a sentinel, rather harsh looking, stopped us 
and demanded if we had passports. " Yes, sir," says 
Liining, and presenting a silver plote\ the face of the 
sentinel relaxed into complacency. He thanked us 
with earnestness, and wished us a pleasant journey. 
At another time we were brought to by a custom- 
house officer. In every town they have a right to 
search your baggage for contraband goods. L., who 
is never at a loss, presented a 12 sch. bill, which satis- 
fied the officer that we had nothing unlawful. Nor- 
denshjold and Damm called this afternoon ; but from 
the gentleman to whom I sent letters not a word. N. 



I For Swedish flat, pronounced plote. A very thin old Swedish coin. One Swedish dic- 
tionary says: " Imaginary money nearly of 20 pence English," whatever that may mean. 

24O 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

and D. something cooler. There is something in the 
atmosphere which I have not yet discovered, and 
probably never shall. 

Gdteborg (which is the Swedish spelling), Octo- 
ber 10, 1809. Couche at Y / 2 p. 10. Rose at 6. At 
10 called on Madame Daily. She anticipated the 
object of my visit (so far, I mean, as regards business), 
by offering her services to take anything, parcels or 
letters, for me to England. This is just what I 
wished, finding that I must still disencumber myself 
of papers and small articles. On her fidelity and 
punctuality I can rely. Sat an hour. Home and 
went to overhauling papers and baggage to see what I 
could spare. A very embarrassing business. I can 
never decide what to leave and what to take. If you 
were here — ah, why are you not ? — you would settle 
all this in a single minute, and all would be right. 
But I take up a paper and hold it, turning and twist- 
ing it, for 10 minutes, and am still undecided. Already 
I have had occasion to regret the want of a paper 
which is among those sent off by Barry. This makes 
me still more cautious and indecisive. If there were 
an opportunity direct to the United States, I should 
be at no loss. But there is no such thing, nor can I 
find any mode of communication to you but through 
England ; a mode to which, you know, I have very 
serious objections. At 1 P. M. walked to the harbour 
to hunt up the Americans who are here. Saw none 
of them, but got the names of six captains, not one of 
my acquaintance. Left my address for them at the 



241 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr, 

tavern which is their rendezvous, and at the same 
place consoled myself with bread and cheese, and 
Swedish ale, 16 sch. which counts for a/ton 1 . Home 
at y 2 p. 2 and went to work again at my papers, but 
made no progress. Liining came in at 5, having been 
running about, as usual, for me. He walked to see 
Lehman, a Bremener, who is to be my comp. de voy- 
age 1 . It won't do. He has a lady in charge, and will 
travel in a way which will not suit me. He goes at 4 
to-morrow morning. Will forward a letter for me to 
Hauterive. In our walk we met a man of Luning's 
acquaintance whose name is Bollman ; a circumstance 
I did not learn till we got home. Will see him again 
to inquire. L. and I agreed to treat ourselves to a 
supper of oysters and Rhenish wine. Sent out for 
both. Two bottles of wine cost 3 dollars. About a 
peck of oysters, 3 dollars ; rather an extravagant 
meal. After all was served, L., who had taken all the 
trouble, and affected to be very keen, acknowledged 
that he was unwell ; could neither eat nor drink, and 
must go to bed, which he did at 7. So you see all 
his zeal for the supper was to gratify me. I made 
him drink a bottle of warm sangaree, made of our 
wine. Made my supper. The oysters are very 
small, generally of a greenish colour, and always a 
strong coppery taste ; just like the English. I tried 
them roasted and raw, but could only get down nine. 
Of the wine I drank two-thirds of a bottle. Wrote 



I For aftonmaltid. Supper. 

z For compagntin de voyage. Traveling companion. 



242 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

my letter to Hauterive, enclosing a copy of that which 
I wrote him from Stockholm, and at y^ p. 10 took it 
to Lehman's, but all were abed. Knocked ; no 
answer, and so came off. Must be up at 4 to secure 
the conveyance of it. 

11. Couche at 12. Rose at 4. Made my own 
fire. Waked up the boy (a beautiful lad of 13, son 
of the landlady) and sent him with the letter. He 
found all asleep and no signs of traveling. At 5 he 
went again ; still asleep. At 7 found a servant, who 
said that his master never got up till 9. At 9 sent 
him, and the letter was delivered. Walked with 
Liining, who is quite well this morning, to Todd's 
(the tavern at the harbour) to see the Americans ; not 
one there. Walked on to the lower harbour, about 
three miles, and home. Called on Lehman on return- 
ing ; he does not go till to-morrow. Met in the 
street Mr. Gibson, who introduced himself to me and 
said he had no letters. Home at 12. Dr. Schulzen 
had called in my absence. At 1 went again to Todd's; 
not one of the captains to be seen. Again took br'd 
and ous? with the addition of smoeur z and ale; 24SCI1. 
Home at yi p. 2. A letter, a letter, a letter ! At a 
moment when I had given up all expectation and even 
all hope ! At 5 P. M. this same Tuesday, October 
nth, came in a tall, meagre, well-dressed man and 
asked if I were A. B. " Yes." He handed me a 
letter superscribed in your handwriting. It is your 
letter of 1st and 2d August. I could have kissed the 



1 For Swedish ost. Cheese. 

2 For Swedish sm'ir. Butter. 



243 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

fellow ! After reading it a few times, I went to return 
the visit of Dr. Schulzen, whom found at home. A 
modest man, of good sense, and a countenance of 
goodness. Home at 6. Tea. Liining not come in, 
and now, at 10 o'clock, I have done nothing but 
write this. Your letter has discomposed my projects 
a little ; but I shall persist in them, as you shall see 1 . 
Helsingborg, October 21, 1809. Supped again 
last night with the beautiful family of Barque c. d. Pres. 
des tribunaux soes. en Pomerantd 1 . Drank tro. de vin, 
seeing that I had dined with the Governor ; was, in 
consequence, obliged to sit up till 3, smoking, and 
reading, and writing. Having resolved to be up early 
and off at 9, slept sound till *4 p. 10 ! Pas tro. bien 1 . 
At x / 2 p. 1 1 called on Colonel , the Command- 
ant, who comports with the utmost politeness. Will 
order a boat at any hour. Desired it might be at 2 ; 
but the passports of Hendrick not having arrived, 
shall be obliged to go stark alone. At x / 2 p. 12 got my 
breakfast, and went to packing up. In the midst of 
it, came in a very gentlemanly-looking man, who 
introduced himself to me as the Prussian consul at 
Elsinore. Gave me much useful information. Had 
a special favor to ask, to which agreed. Had just 
done packing, when came in the visiting officer, whose 



1 Under date of Gothenburg, October 12, 1809, Burr wrote to Henry Gahn, Swedish con- 
sul, New York, as follows : " It would require volumes to give you an account of the persons 
and things which I have seen and thought worthy of notice. An imperfect sketch is preserved 
in a Journal which I have kept for the amusement of my daughter ; and which, if it should ever 
reach America, shall be offered to your perusal. ***** 1 am indebted to you for the 
amusement and instruction which I have found in this country ; which, but for you, I should 
not have visited. I leave it with regret, bearing the most pleasing recollections of its hospitali- 
ties and with indelible sentiments of admiration and respect." 

2 Formerly President of the Swedish tribunals in Pomerania. (Soes. probably for suidois.) 

3 [Feeling] none too well. 

244 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

duty it is to inspect baggage, &c. Was sent by the 
Governor, that I might not have the trouble of send- 
ing my trunks to the custom-house, or opening them 
on the wharf. The examination consisted in opening 
my trunks, and without moving an article, he standing 
six yards off, and then he received from me ^ dollar; 
very pleasant. How fortunate is my long sleeping. 
The Commandant came in at x / 2 p- 2. " Good news 
for you. The passport of Hendrick is arrived, and 
he shall receive mine in fifteen minutes." A few 
minutes after he brought it, and waited to eschort 1 me 
to the landing, and see me safe aboard. Heighho ! for 
another, and, nominally, a hostile kingdom. Driz- 
zling, fog, and brisk gale. 

Elsinore, October 21, 1809. We crossed in an 
hour in a small open boat, though the wind was 
strong ahead; the distance 1,331 toises % . Before leav- 
ing the Danish shore the sky cleared, and the sun 
shone brilliant; weather mild. At about 100 yards 
from the Danish shore were met by the Danish flag of 
truce, another boat like ours ; for the Swedish boat is 
not allowed to approach nearer the shore. Each boat 
has a white flag to manifest the pacific intent. In the 
Danish boat we and our baggage embarked, and were 
presently ashore. Another boat took our passports 
to the Danish Commandant at the castle. The castle 

which has for levied tribute on all Europe. 

We landed, leaving our baggage, and went under 
guard to the custom-house, where an officer examined 

I So throughout the MS. 

1 A toise is a French measure of slightly more than six feet. 

2 45 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

our passports, endorsed them, and transmitted us, 
under guards to the castle, about half a mile, where we 
were exhibited to the Commandant, an elderly man of 
grave but courteous deportment. He asked in 
French, if I were Colonel Burr. I replied that I had 
no claim to a military title, but was commonly so 
called. Ask me to sit ; inquired when I proposed to 
go to Copenhagen. " To-morrow." Said my pass- 
ports should be transmitted to me that evening. 
Went then to our proposed lodgings, Madame Jeuel's. 
At the door saw carts loaded with furniture and much 
bustle. The good lady had sold out, and was in the 
act of moving. In this dilemma a sprightly young 
man interposed ; supposed we were Americans 
addressed to his house ; offered to provide us lodg- 
ings, and in ten minutes we were splendidly lodged 
chez Oder, a confectioner. Our new friend then went 
with us to see after our baggage. Found it at the 
custom-house. Our trunks were barely opened and 
shut. He paid the necessary (customary) douceurs*. 
Our baggage being lodged, he ordered tea, at which 
we had the pleasure of his company. Inquired what 
hour we should sup, and ordered supper. Told us 
the wines were excellent, and ordered claret and port. 
It being a mild, brilliant, moonlight evening, he pro- 
posed to walk to the King's Garden and park 
adjoining the town, and thither we went. The Palace 
small, but neat and good taste. About twenty or 
thirty statues in a circular area in front, prettily 

I Literally sweetnesses or softnesses; hence the wherewithal to soften the custom-house 
officers. 

246 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

disposed. The hill and terrace in the rear, something 
higher than the top of the Palace, extends a consider- 
able length, perhaps half a mile, and affords a 
magnificent and varied view of the town, the castle, 
the ocean, the Baltic, the Swedish coast, and the town 
of Helsingborg. Paused at the tomb of Hamlet. It 
is on this terrace ; a square pillar, about four feet high, 
and without inscription ; the only monument. I 
would willingly have passed an hour alone on this 
terrace. Returned by another gate. The town very 
quiet. Our supper served at 9. Eels and mutton, 
both excellent, and the wines did justice to his recom- 
mendation, as he did to them. At *4 P- IO he left us, 
first inquiring at what hour in the morning he should 
call to go and show us the church, which I had 
expressed a curiosity to see. I appointed j4 p- 8. 
My companion, Hendrick, went to bed, and I sat till 
past 12, smoking the segars which our young friend 
had given me. 

22. Coucbe at 12. Rose at 7. The coverture 1 
of my bed last night was a down [duvet) bed, very 
light, but so intolerably hot that I was obliged to dis- 
miss it and get a blanket. Our friend came punctually 
at the appointed time. We were at breakfast, and he 
joined us, not having breakfasted. Went to see 
the church. The interior is Gothic excessively sur- 
charged with ornament of all colours. The pictures 
in a very coarse style. Yet there is a solemnity in 
those lofty arches which renders it the best style of 



For couverture. Coverlet. 



247 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

architecture for temples. The sexton could tell 
nothing of the history of the church. Saw no date 
older than 300 years. Went up into the cupola. 
The fog prevented seeing anything, and we had the 
pleasure of coming down again a dark, steep stairway, 
and sometimes a ladder. Thence went to see the 
Commandant, in which I had several views, one of 
which was to get rid of the vexatious ceremony of 
presentation at the police on my arrival at Copen- 
hagen. Was, of course, stopped by a centinel 1 at the 
outer gate. Sent by a soldier my card, together with 
a message that I was waiting admission to see him. 
Was admitted and courteously received. Asked 
indirectly, and with apologies, to see the apartments 
in the castle. He informed me that the whole was 
now a barracks, and the chapel a magazine ; that all 
the furniture and pictures were removed to Copen- 
hagen. He walked with me through two or three 
rooms, but with evident reluctance ; so, pretending 
that my curiosity was quite satisfied, and having 
obtained the promise of a letter, which, being shown 
to the police at Copenhagen, would exonerate me 
from personal attendance, I took leave. One circum- 
stance, however, did not quite please me. When I 
was yesterday at the custom-house to exhibit my 
baggage, the officer asked if I had any sealed letters. 
I told him I had one of introduction from Baron 
Engerstrom to M. Didelot, the French minister at 
Copenhagen. He made no further inquiry, nor did 
he ask to see this letter ; but, having accidentally 

1 So in the MS. 

248 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

shown it to the Commandant, he said he was bound, 
by his orders, to retain it, and to transmit it to the 
King ; but assured me that it would be forthwith 
delivered, unopened, to its address. I had scarcely 
got home when a Sergeant brought me the promised 
letter from the Commandant, an open letter to be 
shown to the police. We had engaged a carriage ; a 
long wicker wagon, with seats on springs, for 5 dollars. 
The distance is about twenty-six English miles. 
These 5 dollars are equal to about 1 ^ of your money. 
It was near 12 before we were ready to set off, and our 
young friend thought we had better eat a beefsteak, to 
prevent delay on the road, and he ordered it. With 
the steak (which was very good), potatoes, and porter, 
we made a hearty meal, and he had the goodness to 
join us. Our bill at this house was 22 dollars and 3 
marks. At 12 we set off. The road is broad, straight, 
elevated, turnpiked, and requires toll ; very small, 
however, about 8 sti. 1 for the whole distance. The 
fog and mist prevented the enjoyment of distant views. 
There is generally cultivation on each side. Some 
heaths. Rather deficient in wood. Generally thin 
soil, of sandy loam. Everywhere piles of turf dug 
up for fuel. The fences generally of sod, with a small 
ditch on one or both sides. In some places a substan- 
tial bank, like those on your rice-plantations. No 
rocks or ridges ; few stones. Few houses worthy of 
notice. Gentle swells and hills ; none lofty. Fre- 
quently in view of the ocean on the left, and several 

1 Stivers. The stiver was worth perhaps 2 cents. 

249 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

small lakes. At half way, a small town of about sixty 
houses in one street ; generally of one story and very 
low, called Amsterdam. Passed two manufactories, 
one of cotton spinning, weaving, and printing. A 
palace of the King a little this side of Amsterdam. It 
was dark before reaching this city. At the first gate 
our passports were examined. At the next the cus- 
tom-house officer visited our baggage. It was done 
with courtesy, and did not detain us two minutes. 
Arrived at Rau's Hotel, in the Grand Square, at 7. 
The approach to the city is very pretty ; for notwith- 
standing the fog, the moon (nearly full) gave light 
enough to show us something. About a mile before 
reaching the walls of the town, on an extensive plain, 
you are presented with three avenues through rows of 
trees. The middle one was our road. 

Copenhagen, October 23, 1809. No theatre was 
opened last evening, nor was there any public amuse- 
ment. After strolling an hour, during which mus. 
mauv.; 1 d. 1 came home; took tea as my supper; en- 
gaged a servant at 3 marks a day ; not, however, to 
attend me exclusively. LI. de ch. gro. pas mauv. mus. 
encore 1 . My room, a very large and elegant one on 
the first floor, looks into the square, and it is again 
my good fortune to have a military parade and band 
of music under my window in the morning. After 
breakfast sent cards to Olsen, formerly minister pleni- 
potentiary from this government to the United States, 

I For muse mauvaise; I dollar. Bad muse ; I dollar. 

z For Fille de chambre ; grosse, pas mauvaise. Muse encore. The chambermaid, fat, not 
bad ; muse again. 



25O 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

and to Nailsen, formerly judge in Santa Cruz, who 
passed some time in New York on his way home. 
Both were abroad. Olsen at some distance at a coun- 
try seat. Sent also Baron d'Albedyhll's letter to M. 
de Coningk, conseiller d'etat\ with card. Hearing that 
G. Jay, American consul for Rotterdam, lodged in 
this house, sent my name by a servant. Walked 
about town an hour or two. It is regularly laid out 
on a plain. The harbour artificial. Very few vessels. 
Houses almost universally of brick, but generally 
made white or stone-coloured. Had a bowl of soup, 
with a bottle of Rhenish wine, in my room for dinner. 
In the afternoon took a servant to pilot me to the 
Observatory. The height is said to be 160 feet, 
placed nearly in the center of the town, and affords a 
most perfect bird's-eye view of the whole, with a pros- 
pect of the ocean ; a fine landscape in the interior ; 
the Palace of Fredericksberg, finely placed on an 
eminence. The Swedish coast. The ascent to the 
top is singular ; not by steps, but an inclined spiral 
plane, paved with brick. It is said that a former 
King drove up with a coach and four, which is very 
practicable till you come within about ten feet of the 
summit, where you have steps, but how he got back 
is not said, for it is utterly impossible to turn. Paid 
i mark, and one more to my conductor. Home and 
alone the evening. La flick* later. 

24. Rose at 7. The Prussian consul, Mr. 
Tutine, called to see me, with Hendrick to introduce 



1 State Councilor. 

2 For la flicka. French and Swedish. The lass. 



251 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr 



him, and presently Mr. John de Coningk (son of the 
gentleman to whom I had a letter) on the part of his 
father who is invalid (a paralytic stroke) and to ask 
me to dine on Wednesday. Ought to have written a 
great deal this evening, as Hendrick goes to-morrow 
and another safe occasion may not soon offer ; but it 
is now 1 1 and have not written a line. Yes, I wrote 
a copy of my letter to Hauterive for the mail to-mor- 
row, and nothing more. 

25. Rose at 7. At 10 to de Coningk's ; saw 
only the son. It is an immense house and everything 
in a style of great elegance. Thence to return the 
visit of the Prussian consul, about one mile, being 
just without the walls on the road to Elsinore ; not at 
home, but his wife, whom I met in the court, on see- 
ing my card introduced me to her sister and daughter 
and proposed a walk in the garden. It is prettily laid 
out, and contains many acres. An avenue extending 
in a straight line to the sea about % mile. Madame a 
very pleasing, well-behaved woman. Home at 12. 
Walked over the ruins, of which a part is the magnifi- 
cent church of , the most splendid in the city, 

and containing many monuments of kings and great 
men. The walls and the roof are standing. To a 
bookseller's, where, on entering, I was called by my 
name. In a town of this size, about 80,000 inhabi- 
tants, a stranger is immediately known. Home. 
Wrote a short letter to Liming ; a very short and 
unsatisfactory one, not having procured for him the 
mercantile information which I had promised ; but, 



252 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

indeed, I have tried. At i Hendrick actually set off, 
having been on the point of starting since 8 this 
morning. Sold a dubloon for 48 rix dollars. The 
money here, as in Sweden, is paper, but still more 
depreciated than there. A guinea is worth 16 dollars. 
Prices have not advanced quite in the same propor- 
tion ; so that, to one having gold or credit in Ham- 
burg, living is very cheap, as you shall see. Dined in 
my room and alone yesterday and to-day and had a 
bottle of wine each day. You see I am making up 
arrears. After dinner, walked in the King's Garden. 
It is a garden and park, a beautiful promenade, but 
did not go over it ; having renc. jo., gent., home 
ensem. 1 ; 4 rix dollars. In the evening the maid at the 
usual hour brought tea but in a very unusual style. 
A splendid tea service of silver and two cups. I asked 
why she brought two cups (I being alone). She said 
with perfect simplicity and without any smile or queer 
looks that she supposed Madame would have staid to 
tea. In the evening walked out, intending to go to 
the park again, but the gate was locked, though only 
8 o'clock. In walking, however, a renc. ; 1 r. d. ; 
passab* How unnecessary and how silly ! 

16. Sat up till 1 last evening, being a little out 
of humor with one Gamp ; made some pious resolu- 
tions. Rose at 7. At 10 to leave a card for the 
French minister, Mon. Didelot ; in the country, not 
having yet returned to town. Perhaps I have not 

1 For having rencontre [une fille] jolie, gentille, home ensemble. Having come across a 
genteel, pretty girl, went home together. 

2 For a rencontre; 2 rix dollars; passable. A rencounter; 2 rix dollars; tolerable or 
middling. 

*S3 



Private J o u r?i a I of Aaron Burr . 

told you that the Commandant at Elsinore retained 
Engerstrom's letter to Didelot. He said he was 
expressly bound by his orders to do so. I learned 
yesterday that the letter had been delivered. All 
letters coming in or going out must be examined by the 
police. I went there (to the police-office) yesterday 
with my letter for Hauterive, which was examined and 
sealed with their seal, which is a warrant to the post- 
master to receive and forward it. My letter being in 
English, and written stylographically, was not very 
legible, as you know. Yesterday, too, I went with 
Hendrick to the museum, of which more another 
time. Paid for the party 3 dollars. Remember, 
when dollars are mentioned in Denmark, it means the 
paper dollar, as before explained. At 3 went to de 
Coningk's to dine. Found there the son heretofore 
mentioned ; a very sensible and well-bred man, speak- 
ing perfectly well French and English ; his wife ditto; 
her sister ; two daughters of Professor Puerari, 
Genevois 1 , a man of very prepossessing manners and 
appearance. The dinner good and abundant. No 
troublesome stiffness or forms. All rose at once. 
After coffee and tea, home at 7. Had scarcely got 
home before Hosack and Robinson came in. I was, 
indeed, very glad to see them. You may recollect 
that we parted on the 2d of October. They brought 
me a letter from Luning ; a most affectionate letter, 
but something more ; enclosing a draught on his cor- 
respondent at Hamburg for 1,000 marks ! Did you 

I For Genevois. Genevese. 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

ever hear of anything to equal this except in novels ? 
I am quite embarrassed what to do 1 . In the evening, 
to my great surprise, and uninvited, tapped gently at 
my door Tempe. You know I never disappoint peo- 
ple if I can help it and so T. was not dismissed ; 4 rix 
dollars. With great trepidation I opened the picture 
on Sunday morning. It has suffered no injury. It 
hangs in my room ; but I am quite out of humour that 
my visitors have expressed only commonplace admir- 
ation. La jeune M'lle de Coningk has expressed a 
desire to see it, and thither you go to-morrow. 

27. Couche at 1. Rose at 7. You must know, 
Madame, that the King and Queen are expected to 
arrive at Fredericksberg to-morrow, and to make 
formal entre % in town on Saturday. There are to be 
great doings. M. de Coningk called this morning to 
propose to take me to Mr. de Hellfried's this even- 
ing, who would invite me to take my stand at his 
house on Saturday, as being a most eligible spot for 
seeing the procession ; agreed. Mr. de H. is com- 
mander of the Order of Danborg, and one of his 
daughters married SchlegeP, author of a " Treatise on 
Neutral Rights," which I read some three or four 
years ago with great pleasure and approbation. 
Walked about town this forenoon. It is very hand- 

1 Liining's letter, under date of October 21, 1809, was as follows : " I take the liberty to 
send you the enclosed letter, at the producing of which Mr. H. Bauer will pay you 1,000 marks, 
Hamburg currency, which you will please reimburse when you arrive in England or America. I 
cannot tell you how much I am thankful to Providence for having given me the pleasure to get 
acquainted with a man whom I admired long ago. I esteemed you before; now I love you." 

2 For entree. Entry. 

3 Friedrich Schlegel (1772-1829). The title of the work was u Sur la Visite des Vaisseaux 
Neutres Sous Convoi, ou Examen Impartial du Jugement Prononce par le 'Tribunal de 
r Amiraut'e Angloise 1799," etc. "On the Visit of Neutral Ships under Convoy, or an Impar- 
tial Examination of the Decision Pronounced by the Court of the English Admiralty." 

*S5 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

some, but of this more anon. Din. seul and a bottle 
wine. Have tried in vain to hire a valet de place 1 , my 
Mons. Thomas being of no use to me ; gets drunk 
before dinner. At 7 Mr. de C. called, and we went 
to Mr. de Hellfried's. There was Schlegel. Madame 
Clements, also daughter of de C, came in and I did 
not at first recognize her, nor did I afterward atone 
for it. She staid but a few minutes. A bonnet and 
a change of dress prevented, and disguised her. At 
dinner, yesterday, was much pleased with her. Will 
atone the first opportunity. Staid about an hour. A 
very pleasant family. Schlegel just such a man as I 
wished and expected to find ; apparently about 44. 
Sat an hour and home. Mr. Hellfried lent me a 
book, of which he is the author, " A Survey of the 
British Attack on Denmark in 1807." I read about 
one hundred pages. It is written with a genuine 
patriotic enthusiasm. Omitted : Went this afternoon 
to see the King's library ; 300,000 volumes ! Deemed 
the third in Europe. There are reading rooms and 
fires. Catteau says this library was burned in 1794. 
Not a book ! The librarian extremely civil ; no pay. 
28. Couche at 1. Rose at 7. Called on J. de 
C. at 10. Was received by Madame with very 
engaging frankness and ease. Passed an hour with 
the family. Got some books, and he sent his servant 
for others for me from the King's library. Young 
brother of Mr. J. de C. went to show me Puerari's ; 
out; left card. Had scarcely got home, when Puerari 

1 A guide for tourists. 

256 








^-.-•^— ,-r*^^*- £L-*^+ /> A-Ja^ £^xJu £^Ji~~-3 ~^ 

r 





*7 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

called on me. We walked to see the library of Class- 
enborg, about which I have a pretty story to tell you. 
This library is confined to natural history and botany, 
and is magnificent in those departments. It is in care 
of Professor Ramus, to whom I was there introduced. 
He tendered himself to go with me on Sunday to the 
Palace of Rosen, and to show me the collections of 
coins and medals, which is said to be splendid. I 
shall make some addition to Gampy's stock here. 
You can't think what trouble the little varlet has 
brought me into. Having on my arrival inquired 
where some coins and medals could be had, it was 
immediately noised about that I was a medal and coin 
hunter, and scientific, of course, in numismatique 1 . 
Puerari introduced me as such to Ramus, for which I 
could have boxed him. Dined to-day, for the first 
time, at the table d^hote 1 ^ and am so well pleased with 
the company that shall dine there henceforth when 
not engaged abroad. At 6 walked out to see the 
illuminations and fireworks at the palace of Freder- 
icksberg, about \ Y / 2 miles, on occasion of the arrival 
of the King and Queen. You must know that the 
Queen has been passing some months (ever since the 
death of the late King) with her father in Holstein, 
and has never yet been seen here as Queen, which is 
the cause of all this stir. And so it happened that 
we all, about 30,000 of us, came back as we went ; 
the King and Queen had not arrived ; there was 
neither illumination nor fireworks; we were all quite 

1 The science of coins and medals. 

2 For table d'hote. Literally, host's or guest's table. A complete meal regularly served in 
a public dining room. 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

sad. The report is that the King cannot get across 
the Belt a cause du 1 British fleet. Called on Schlegel 
this morning ; out. 

29. Got another servant (Myer) at 1 dollar per 
day ; but wholly to myself. This partnership in 
servants won't do at all. Myer is a dignified German 
of 72 ; was in the United States war, and has been 
twenty-five years in England. His last service was 
with the Russian minister. Sent Myer with a note to 
G. H. Olsen, brother of the late minister, to inquire of 
the latter ; received a very civil note in reply saying 
that B. Olsen was in the country, but wife and daugh- 
ters in town and would be happy to see me. Went 
off forthwith to see them. Madame is perfectly well 
preserved ; a sensible, lady-like woman. The daugh- 
ters very well. Mr. G. H. O. tendered all sorts of 
civilities. 

30. Catteau says that it rains usually every day 
of October in Zealand. Since I landed in Elsinore, 
I forgot when, but you may see by looking back, it 
has been every day fine till Friday last, excepting only 
the day I came from Elsinore to this place. But 
since Thursday we have not seen sun or moon. A 
constant fog, and, generally, mist so heavy as to wet 
you. Called on d'C.'s ; the King and Queen have 
arrived on the Island of Zealand. Will be this night 
at Fredericksberg, and to-morrow make their entre in 
town. G. H. Olsen called this morning; and at 12 
Professor Ramus, by appointment, to visit the collec- 



Because of the. 



258 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

tion of coins and medals at Rosenborg. This palace 
built by Charles IV. or V., I forget which, and is at 
one end of the gardens, which are open for the public 
as a promenade. The palace and garden are in the 
same enclosure. A wood extending the length of the 
garden, and about one hundred yards wide. The col- 
lection is immense. Ramus says forty thousand, 
being in value and number next to those of Paris and 
Vienna. The coins of all times and all nations ; 
Europe, Asia, America, and from the early days of 
Athens. Several of Alexander and Philip. Most of 
them are described in a work printed at the expense 
of the government, three immense volumes in folio, 

and sold for the inconsiderable price of . The 

Flora Danica 1 is published and sold in like manner. 
Being with the Professor, paid nothing. Hosack and 
Robinson accompanied me. Din. a table d'hote 1 . 
Evening to Fredericksberg, a very muddy walk of 
more than two English miles. The park and gardens 
must be some hundreds of acres. Water, bridges, 
fountains ; the effect (of the illumination) in some 
places pretty, but nowhere answering my expectations. 
Almost total want of music. The crowd such that 
one was in a constant struggle. The sentinels on each 
side prevented any one from going out of the walks. 
Got home at 10 and consoled myself with Tem. J 

31. It ought to be the 30th. When the blun- 
der began, you must find out. At 1 1 to Olsen's. 



1 The Danish Flora. 

2 For diner a [la] table d'hote. 

3 For Tempe, a girl previously referred to. 



259 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Met Blicker Olsen, who looks as well as when in the 
United States, though complaining of very bad health. 
Received me civilly and kindly. Has no establish- 
ment in town, and a very plain one in the country. 
Their house and furniture were burned during the 
English siege. Madame stayed in the house till it 
was in flames. Fifty-two balls and shells had come 
into it while she remained there. Hundreds of fam- 
ilies have been ruined by that infernal siege. Dined 
at J. de Coningk's ; about fifteen at table. Nothing 
very remarkable. The widow Clements has announced 

her intended marriage with Mr. , a gentleman 

about ten years her junior. She is still handsome and 
desirable, though a grandmother. 

Rochild 1 , November 8, 1809. The ancient, not, 
however, the most ancient, residence of the Kings of 
Denmark. Though I left Madame Tutine's et le 
belle Prussienne 1 at 8 last evening much against my will 
and theirs, and without any known or assignable rea- 
son, I did nothing all the evening ; was somehow out 
of order and as I thought unfit for society ; some peo- 
ple thought otherwise. Got tea a ma f aeon 1 . Wrote 
postscript to my letter to Liining. At 9 came in the 
dom. of Madame de Wederkop to apologize for the 
disappointment of last evening and begging to see me 
in the morning. The apology was something singu- 
lar. At 12 went to work on the Coest. 4 and wrought 



1 For Rdskilde. Burr pays no attention whatever to the correct spelling of geographical 
names. Rdskilde was an ancient ecclesiastical center. It had at one time a population of 
100,000 and was the capital of Denmark till 1443. 

2 Le for la. And the handsome Prussian lady. 
} For a mafa^on. In my style. 

4 See Glossary. 

260 



Private journal of Aaron Burr . 

very hard till x / 2 p. i. Couche at 3. Lev. at 7 quite 
well but more and more out of humor with my brusque 
manner of quitting la Prus. 1 At 9 sor. to Madame 
Wederkop ; gave her in charge my letter to Liming 
and received from her two for Sleswick 2 . To A. B. 
Rothe, with whom j4 hour about committees, coun- 
cils, &c. A very prompt, intelligent, communicative 
man about 46. He is to address to me at Hamburg 
his reply to my queries. To Olsen's ; Blecker O. 
had left town ; H. G. O. exceedingly civil ; mortified 
that I will leave town ; offers to devote himself; 
assures me of all sorts of respectful attentions. Why, 
then, do I not stay ? Because I had resolved to go, 
had announced it, &c, though I do admit that I have 
had much to encounter to get out. From Olsen's to 
J. de Coningk's, where j4 hour and thence home. 
Found H. and R. ready and waiting. I had ordered 
horses at 11. At 1 1 I got home and the horses were 
at the door ; not a thing packed up, bills to settle, 
servants to pay, quelle embarras 1 ! We went to work 
all hands and at 1 were ready and embarked. The 
mode of traveling is in a long wagon, the body wick- 
erwork ; no springs ; but the seats with cushions and 
backs, hung on leather. The road is paved with peb- 
bles, like the streets in our towns. Note : At the 
moment of packing up Mr. Hellfried came in to make 
a visit ; rather late. The promise of three marks 
above the customary fee to the driver brought us on 



I For la Prussienne. 

7. For Schleswig. 

3 For quel embarras ! What perplexity 



26l 



Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

very briskly. With four fine, large black horses, we 
performed this stage in three hours ; the distance four 
Danish miles, about twenty-one English. After rising 
and descending the hill on which is the palace of Fred- 
ericksberg, the whole is almost a plain. Many village 
churches ; all low, and with a square tower at one end, 
interspersed with those little hills which are called bar- 
rows — places of interment at a period beyond tradition 
or record. At one time I counted thirteen in view. 
These, and those I have seen in Sweden, resemble 
those which we have seen on the Ohio, the Missis- 
sippi, and the Missouri. We dined at Taastrup 1 (half 
way). Goose, excellent ; corned pork (ditto), with 
bread, butter and very fine cheese. Our drink was a 
kind of light ale. This repast for us three, including 
drink for our coachman, cost 3 dollars 1 mark, about 
1 dollar United States money. Very soon after leav- 
ing Taastrup 1 we had in view the turrets of the ancient 
Cathedral of Rochild\ We are lodged in a neat, 
comfortable inn. A widow lady, two smiling maids, 
so like Sweden that we cannot believe they are Danes. 
On my arrival called on Professor Gamberg, and 
showed him Olsen's note. He returned with me to 
the inn. He has apprised the wachmeister 7 " or the 
sexton to be ready to show us the Cathedral at 8 in 
the morning. This is the object of my staying here 
to-night ; I must see the tomb and bust of Marguerite, 

1 For Hojetaastrup. 

2 For Rb'skilde. There are many interesting tombs at Rbskilde, including those of several 
Kings and Queens of Denmark. The Cathedral, built in the middle of the thirteenth century 
in the Transition style, is with three exceptions the finest medieval church in Scandinavia. It 
is 280 feet long ; the tower is 246 feet high. 

3 For Danish vagtmester. Doorkeeper, porter. 

262 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 
called the Semiramis 1 of the North, and of , 



but you shall know. That you may judge of the 
expense of traveling — we paid for our wagon and four 
horses 7^ dollars, and 1 dollar to the coachman ; in 
the whole about 12 shillings sterling. Having dined 
plentifully, we took tea for supper in the evening ; a 
bottle of very fine claret, and for my part, with hot 
water and sugar. The picture has come on my lap. 
I could not bear to see you bouncing about at the 
bottom of the wagon, but I shall not open it again till 
Hamburg. My companions are asleep and now, at 1 1, 
having had my bed warmed, much the mode here, I 
am also going to make up the arrears of the last two 
nights, having ordered breakfast at 7 and the 
pretty maid to wake me at 6. Let me see, how are 
you now employed ? Probably at breakfast, with 
Gampy asking you an hundred of questions about — 
God knows ! 

Golding 2 , Jutland, Sunday, November 10 or 11, 
1 809. We crossed the Little Belt 5 at 8 this evening. 
Hosack was so beat out that he would go no further, 
finding there a tolerable tavern. R. and I came on 
two and a half Danish miles, or ten English, to this 
place, where we arrived at midnight. Slept till 8. 
Hosack came in about 10. At 1 1 went to deliver 

Lieutenant 's letter to Mr. ; was 

received by a very pretty girl plainly dressed but of 

1 The legendary wife of Ninus, the founder of Nineveh. She reigned after his death and 
conquered all Asia except India ; built the city of Babylon, with its hanging gardens, etc. She 
was said to be endowed with surpassing beauty and wisdom. The Greeks ascribed to this 
superlative Queen everything marvelous in the Orient. 

2 For Kolding. 

3 Strait between Funen and Jutland. 

CL63 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr. 

very fine form, which proved to be the daughter. The 
father a good, kind old man. M'lle sang and played 
in a very superior style. She has given concerts at 
Kyholm. The chateau burnt in the time of Berna- 
dotte, Prince de Pontecorvo. Got off at i. At 5 to 
Hadersleb. 1 , the first town in Sleswig 2 , famed for beau- 
tiful women. The tavern a very elegant one ; fine 
paintings, &c. The daughter a very accomplished 
girl, speaking French perfectly well. Were much dis- 
posed to stay the night here, but at this rate we shall 
never get on. 

Flensburg, November 13, 1809. Arrived at 5 A. 
JVL, having been four and a half hours on the route 

from ; very dark. The country appeared 

to us to be a plain ; little cultivated or inhabited 
and destitute of wood. Passed three small villages ; 
this town the largest since leaving Copenhagen. Plays 
every night ; pleasantly situated on the water. Rose 
at 9. Embarras 7 " about money. Changed two gui- 
neas at 5 dollars courant*. 

Sleswig 2 , Monday evening, (I believe), November 
13, 1809. Rose this morning at x / 2 p. 8, having gone 
twelve miles yesterday, as you already know, and four 
and a half miles this day, as I now tell you. The 
story is thus. Our danske s paper money was exhausted 
and, indeed, often was worthless ; our bills on Hum- 
bro 6 could not be sold ; fortunately I had reserved a 

I For Hadersleben. 

Z For Schleswig. 

3 Embarrassment. 

4 Current money. 

5 Danish. 

6 For Hamburg. 

264 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

few guineas, or we must have been on charity. These 
enquiries and the exchange of guineas which was finally 
done at 4 rix dollars, (a great loss), took up till 11. 
We then set off; for the first time a sort of cover on 
one seat of our wagon. Rose a long hill ; when on 
the height could see no water about the town of 
Flensburg, as I told you. It must have been some 
cloud or an optical deception which led me to the 
error. We then rode among little sandhills ; a plain 
on the right ; some towns at a distance. Passed some 
fine barrows in perfect preservation ; only one church. 
Two very small villages. The whole way sandy and 
heavy road ; were five and one-half hours coming the 
four and one-half miles, equal to about twenty English. 
Arrived at j4 P- 4 and ordered horses to go to 
Redensborg 1 . After this was done we learn that 
Redensborg is a fortified town, the gates of which are 
shut at 7 P. M. We therefore countermanded our 
horses and ordered them at 6. Got an excellent din- 
ner at 7. Soup, fish, ducks, fowls, with cakes and 
apples for dessert ; had two bottles wine, of which I 
drank my one-third. Changed three guineas at 4 rix 
dollars 24 sch. The tavern is in all respects excellent, 
the house, the beds, the maids. 

Gliickstadt, November 1 8, 1 809. Forever in 
some trouble about the day of the month, but am 
never more than one or two days out. Our amiable 
friend le Commandant Donsur took us this morning 
to see le haut Chancellier de Holstein 2 , le Baron de 



1 For Rendsburg. 

2 The High Chancellor of Holstein. 



265 



Private f o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

quelque chose 1 which shall be found out and told anon. 
It seems he had already announced us, for his Excel- 
lency knew all about us. Received us very courteously 
and understanding that we are to leave town to-mor- 
row, asked us to dine to-day en famille ; agreed. Went 

at % p. 2. T: Madame ; M , the 

third Judge, and , a literary man of modest, 

intelligent appearance whose name I regret to have 
lost. The Chancellier appears about 47 ; small, 
maigre z , but sprightly, courteous, and sensible ; some- 
thing like Madison 3 in appearance. A la Soedoise, we 
all stood and said our grace ; and after dinner all rose 
at once, and after returning thanks, bowed, &c, 
adjourned to the drawing-room. The dinner was of 
several courses. Each dish served in succession, first 
being carved by Madame, and then handed round by 
the servant. At each two plates a bottle of wine 
(claret), tumblers and glasses ; each drank as he 
pleased. Some choice wines were sent round, a glass 
to each. Madame has four lovely children, the three 
youngest particularly ; the two eldest, girls. Home 
at 7. Snow and hail. The house at which I lodge 
is the rendezvous of the Club. The noblesse' 1 of the 
town meet every Saturday evening for conversation, 
cards, and supper. (The ladies' club assemble at the 
same house every Tuesday evening.) I went in a few 
minutes, but I declined to join at cards, as well from 
an aversion to lose as because I must pack up, and so 

1 The Baron of something. 

2 Thin, spare. 

3 James Madison, at this time President of the United States. 

4 The nobility. 

266 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

adieu, Madame, till that labour be gone through. 
Minuit 1 . Done, even the picture ; all, all packed, 
ready for starting at sunrise. I bid you bon soir a 
dozen times before I shut you up in that dark case. 
I can never do it without regret. It seems as if I 
were burying you alive. 

19. (Supposed.) After parting with you last 
evening H. came in ; he had been at the Chancellier s 
table and unfortunate ; was willing to go at 8 but had 
rather not ; wished first to see Captain Davis encore*, 

hoping something of fin?; also to see Mrs. of 

New York, who passed through this place yester- 
day and proposed to return cet. apretni. Son defunt ami 
de Gam 4 . Assented, therefore, to postpone till 5 P. 
M.; it being near full moon, thought we could go 
very well the four Danish miles, equal to about seven- 
teen English, to Elmsholm 5 , being the first station. 

Staid at home all day doing nothing. Mrs. 

did not come nor has yet come (11 o'clock). Captain 
D. came about 5. In the meantime I had ordered 
horses ; by 7 no horses had come ; sent to the Magis- 
trate (something like our Mayor) whose duty it is to 
compel the postmaster to give horses. Returned for 
answer that he would do it forthwith ; but as the gates 
of the town were shut at 7 it would be impossible to 
go out till the morning. Submitted to the message 
and have again ordered horses for 8 in the morning. 



1 Midnight. 

2 Again. 

3 Probably for finance, or finances. 

4 This afternoon (cet apres-midi). Her deceased [husband] a friend of Gamp. (Defunt.) 

5 For Elmshorn. 



267 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Captain D. sat two hours andparle'd 1 much. Played 
chess with Hosack till just now and so bon soir. 

Altona, (what a pretty name), November 20, 
1809. We did actually move at 9 this morning. The 
mode of traveling since we crossed the sund x is in an 
immense long wagon, exactly like the great Pennsyl- 
vania wagons only not covered and that the body is 
wicker-work. There are three and sometimes four 
seats, all open ; no springs except that the seats are 
hung on leathern straps. If you wish a cover you ask 
for a calash, which is exactly like a chaise-top which 
falls back. This occupies and forms a seat. As it 
snowed a little and threatened more, we took a calash. 
At Kreme 3 , one Danish mile, we saw again the beau- 
tiful little demoiselle* of the house. She was very glad 
to see us, knowing how much we admired her, and 
was all activity and attention. It was 2 o'clock when 
we arrived at Elmsholm 5 . There is no getting these 
people on more than three English miles an hour, 
though I had promised him a dollar, if he would drive 
it in four hours. While we were here waiting for 
horses, came in our French friend whom we left at 
Korsbr and with him a young Holsteiner going to 
Altona. At Pinnesborg 6 , 6 o'clock. Here Hosack 
and I parted. He went with the Frenchman to 
Hamburg. I came hither with the Holsteiner. He 
recommends to me to lodge at Madame Neyl'SjWaw. 
We could get no calash at Pinnesborg. There was rain, 

1 A hybrid verb from French parler, to talk. 

2 Strait, sound. A Swedish word. 
} For Krempe ! 

4 Damsel. 

j For Elmshorn. 

6 For Pinneberg. 

268 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

hail, and wind, and we were in an open wagon. You 
will shiver to think how I suffered. You may spare 
yourself the trouble. I did not suffer at all. We 
were before the wind. My great paraplui 1 defended 
me from the rain, and my feet and legs were covered 
with straw. We were stopped at the gate to exhibit 
our passports and have our trunks "visited" (exam- 
ined). A very courteous old man performed this 
duty ; and to save us trouble came out in the rain to 
inspect our baggage. The picture, about which I was 
most concerned, was not opened. The trunks opened 
and very slightly examined ; but in the operation some 
things were a little displaced (you know how my 
trunks are always packed), for which I gronded 2, the 
old gentleman. He apologized as if he had really 
erred ; but, in fact, I did very ill, for he might have 
unpacked everything, which would have delayed us 
two hours. I was very sorry afterward that I did not 
treat him more kindly ; and why I did not, seeing it 
was my nature and my habit, I have not now time to 
tell you, Madame. My landlady has a son, 10, and 
two daughters, 23 and 12. L'ainee\ a pretty, lively, 
sensible girl, speaking French fluently, and English a 
little. They have seen better days. Not a servant 
in the house. Everything is done by these children, 
which is embarrassing, for one does not know how to 
treat them. My room is plainly furnished, but neat 
and comfortable. Arrived here at ]/ 2 p- 8, the distance 

1 For parapluie. Umbrella. 

2 Another hybrid verb from French gronder, to scold. 

3 For Vainie. The elder daughter. 

269 



Private ''Journal of Aaron Burr . 

from Gluckstadt being about thirty-five English 
miles. 

21. Hosack, as you may recollect, was charged 
with a certain inquiry of some interest to me, and his 
report was expected at an early hour this morning ; 
but nothing was heard from him till a line received by 
the post at 6 this evening. Matters are just as I 
expected ! Sent the letter of Lieutenant Donner to 
his brother, C. H. Donner, early this morning, with a 
message that I would call at n. At 1 1 T did call. 
He received me with bonhommie 1 and politeness. Staid 
x / 2 hour, and home. Changed my quarters, at the 
request of M'lle, to a larger room. Mist with a little 
rain and snow all day. Paid for hack to Donner's 
and to Frank's tavern (to leave my address there), 40 
sch., about 3 shillings sterling. All day impatiently 
expecting Hosack. Walked out several times ; saw 
nothing remarkable. At 5 walked over to Hamburg. 
The gates are about Y / 2 mile apart. The walk is 
adorned with fine rows of trees ; a plain. Certainly a 
beautiful promenade. After 5 you pay 4 sch. for 
passing the Hamburg gate. Did not dare to walk 
very far for fear of egareing 1 . Rene. 1 again, again ! 
Forgot that I should want money to get back. 
Stopped at the gate and obliged to pawn my pencil. 
Home to get money, which borrowed of Madame. 
Back to redeem my pencil, and then walked again 
about Hamburg. Having redeemed pencil now paid 



1 For bonhomie. Good nature. 

2 Hybrid present participle from French igarer (s'egarer), to go astray. 

J For rencontre again and again. It probably means that he met a number of pretty lasses. 

270 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Madame. Home at 9, and now was stopped at the 
Altona gate, an exigence for which I had made no 
provision. Obliged again to pawn pencil. Took tea. 
On my first return home, found the letter of Hosack 
before mentioned. I forgot to say that couched at 1 2 
hi. au. soi. 1 and this morning at 6 lighted my candle 
and fire with my own flint. You see I go always 
provided. At 6 this evening the sky cleared and the 
moon shone out beautifully. I walked at least half a 
dozen times from one to t'other gate. 

22. Couche at 1. Rose at 9. This unconscion- 
able sleeping I leave you to account for. La belle 1 
comes in and makes my fire before sunrise. Tried in 
vain to get a dom. 1 ; paying coach-hire is not jolie 4 and 
besides I prefer to walk about. Snowing and raining 
again this morning and all day till evening. At 3 
went over to Hamburg and found my way to Rbmische 
kuijser s where Hosack lodges ; he was out. Left the 
notes which I had written, q. v., to him and Robinson. 
On my return called to see mes am. d'hier. Jeu. est 
jo. bru. b Home at 8. U. 7 took tea with me and at 10 
a lesson in English. Omitted : At 1 1 took coach and 
went to Donner's ; he had just left home to visit me, 
so hastened back to meet him but failed. Saw two 
dames at his house, who received me very handsomely; 
but I, like a fool, refused to sit, in the hope of finding 



1 For couchai (je me couchai) a 12 [heures] hier au soir. Retired last evening at 12. 

2 For la belle [fille]. 

} For domestique. Domestic. 

4 Pretty, nice. 

5 Probably for Gasthaus x.um Romischen Kaiser. The name of a lodging-house. " The 
Roman Emperor." 

6 For mes amies a"hier. [La] jcune est [une] jolie brunette. To see my lady friends of 
yesterday. The young one is a pretty brunette. 

7 For la mademoiselle or la jungfru. 

271 



Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

mons. 1 at my house. Wrote him a note about a bill 
of 300 dollars which I enclosed to him to get payment, 
being sans sous. 2, 

23. Couche at 1. Lev. at 8. I did rise at T / 2 
p. 5 and spent x / 2 hour in vain attempts to light can- 
dle, so went to bed again. Having requested both to 
call at y 2 p. 9, which in this latitude is very early ; 
neither came. At 1 1 sor. to Hamburg to the Romische 
Kuyser 1 ; Hosack out. To Kuijser Hoff* to find 
Netzel ; he did not lodge there nor could I find where. 
Attempted to come home another way and got com- 
pletely lost ; asked at least twenty persons, not one of 
whom could understand me. At length found one 
who spoke French and he took great pains to put me 
in the right way. Nevertheless, got lost again, but 
seeing a gate through the ramparts and a mile beyond 
a church, concluded it must be another way to Altona; 
on I went merrily ; after going round the town, found 
it to be only a village of about too houses but could 
get no point of view where I could judge of the course, 
and beside, the weather too sombre to see one mile. 
On return to that gate through which I had come, met 
a woman who spoke a few words of French. She told 
me that Altona was far off, away t'other side of Ham- 
burg. Very consoling. Getting into the city again, 
weary and hungry, stopped at a pastry shop ; there 
found a pretty black-eyed girl, speaking French 
fluently. She had no doubt but in five minutes she 

1 Fox Monsieur [Donner] . Mr. Donner. 

2 For sans [un or le\ sou. Without a cent. 
J See note on preceding page. 

4 For Kaiscrhof. Another lodging-house. 

272 



Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr . 

could find me a hack or a pilot. While she was look- 
ing out at the door for this purpose, I amused myself, 
greatly to my satisfaction, with her cakes and pastry, 
and some hot punch. She found a lad to convoy me. 
Paid for my repast 18 sch., and 5 sch. to the boy, 
whom I dismissed at the gate, recognizing it to be that 
at which I had come. Being refreshed by my repast and 
by the discovery of my way home, roved about within 
limits of which I was sure. At stationer's bought 
quire paper for 1 8 sch. of which this is part. Passing 
through the gate met a very ta. emb. bi. tour. bio. sui. 

Mar. M ; 1 */£ r. d. Pesan. rob. veu. d'un of. 

Peut 26. Tres cont. 1 Home at 5. Robinson had 
been here and left me a note. The young rascal staid 

an hour, courting my . Not a word of Hosack. 

Quod mir. z Took no further dinner. Mr. Donner's 
servant with a verbal message to know whether I was 
engaged for dinner on Monday (certainly not), and to 
say that he would call at 7 this evening if chez moi. 
Yes. He did call. Sat an hour and amused me 
much. A very curious anecdote of Constantine at 
Erfurt. Something of the King of Saxony. Opinion 
about the late Swedish revolution ; about the French. 

Now I must tell you a great secret. Ma 5 has 

a lover whom she has promised to marry. Herself 
told me the day after my arrival, and yesterday evening 
presented him to me. It is really a young man of 



1 An excellent specimen of the Burr enigma. Probably for tall, embonpoint, bien tournee, 
blonde. \Je la] suivis. Mari'ee. Muse; 1% rix dollars. Pesanle, robuste. Veuve d'un 
officier. Peut-itre 26. Tres content. Tall, plump, well-turned blonde. I followed. Married. 
Muse; I^rix dollars. Heavy, robust. Widow of an officer. Perhaps 26. Well satisfied. 

2 For quod mirum. How strange ! 

J For ma [belle J.]. The girl to whom he gave English lessons. 

273 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

prepossessing appearance, about 22 ; (she is 25). He 
is a merchant of genteel manners, and speaking French. 
I have pronounced in his favour, which I suspect he 
has heard, for this evening he has been extremely 
attentive to me. Would himself bring anything I 
asked for. Both together, they brought the tea, and 
I invited them to take a dish with me. It is luxury 
to see people happy. He goes home at 10, and then 

" came to take an English lesson. A very apt 

scholar. Plein d' esprit*. Bon soir. 

24. Couche at 1. Lev. at 8. Took hack at 10 
to go to Hamburg. To Robinson at the Keyser 
hoff 1 . I find that, among the great number of Amer- 
icans here and there, all are hostile to A. B. — all. 
What a lot of rascals they must be to make war on 
one whom they do not know ; on one who never did 
harm or wished harm to a human being. Yet they, 
perhaps, ought not to be blamed, for they are 
influenced by what they hear. I learn further that A. 
B. is announced in the Paris papers in a manner no 
way auspicious. Further, my small stock of money 
was in a bill drawn on a house in Hamburg. This 
bill was remitted to Mr. F., who, being absent, his 
friend and agent got the bill and the money, and " as 
he does not know but the money may belong to Mr. 
F.," refuses to pay it without his orders ! A very 
pretty mess this for one day. Went to Netzel's. 
You may recollect that I desired Hauterive to trans- 



1 Janina. 

2 For pleine cT esprit. Full of intelligence. 

J Note Burr's attempts to spell these German names. (Kaiserhof.) 



274 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

mit his answers to this gentleman. He had no letter 
for me. Resolved then to go direct to the French 
Minister to see if he had any orders to give or refuse 
me passports. Sent in my name, but did not get out 
of my carriage. After some minutes the servant 
returned, saying his Excellency was then very much 
engaged, but would be glad to see me at 3 o'clock. 
Went to Hosack's quarters, Romische Keyset, to 
lounge till 3, then again to the Minister's. Another 
apology that he was still much engaged, but begged 
that I would call to-morrow at 12. Went to 
Hosack's to dine with him, dismissed my carriage and 
after dinner walked home. Forgot to say that I went 
to see Liining's friend, Brauer, who received me very 
kindly, and asked me to a supper and party on 
Monday, which declined, being engaged to dine that 
day with Donner. Did not present Luning's bill on 
Brauer, being still doubtful about that. Learned also 

to-day that the threaten everything, and are 

taking measures against the peace and dignity of our 
sovereign self. Intended to have written many letters 
to-night to the United States. Davis sails to-morrow, 
and such another opportunity may never offer. But 
in this state of things, what can I write? To be silent 
as to my intended movements would be strange, and 
to tell the true state of things afflicting to my friends. 
So I will leave you all to your own conjectures. My 
bel. Jan. 2 came up and took tea with me and had then 



1 See Note 5, page 271. 

2 Probably for my (ma) belle Janina. This is the Swedish and Danish form of Joan, Jeanne, 
Jennie, etc. 



275 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

an hour of English lesson. She makes great progress 
and amuses me. 

25. Couche at 1. Rose at 8. Slept very sound ; 
ate a great breakfast which little J. got me ; very good. 
Found myself, however, in bad humor. To aid this, 
waited a full hour for my razors which had given the 
barber to sharpen, the carriage all the while at the 
door. At length set off to go to Hamburg and there 
shave, but met the rascal on the stairs, so came back 
and shaved. First to Hosack's, where found a letter 
from Liining telling me of the prosperous state of his 
business. One from Graves, full of goodness. One 
from S. Sw. 1 , containing a long bill of untoward 
circumstances regarding himself. The letter, however, 
does great honour to his head and heart. L.'s letter 
determined me to make use of his draft, especially as 
there was no prospect of getting my own money, and 
I am penniless. Hosack had just got up, and, of 
course, had not made further inquiries on this or the 
other more interesting matter. At 12 to the Minis- 
ter's ; was at once received. He is the transcript of 
our J. B. 2 only fifteen years older ; but marked with 
the same characters. His reception was courteous, 
but with a mixture of surprise and curiosity. At 
once offered me a passport to any frontier town, but 
has no authority to do more. Passports to go to 
Paris must come from Paris, and to that end I must 
write, &c. He advises that I direct the reply to be 
transmitted to Mayence, where it will be before I get 



1 Samuel Swartwout. 

2 Perhaps J. B. Prevost. 



276 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

there. At parting he apologized for the delays of 
yesterday, and asked me to dine at his country-house 
three miles from Altona, to-morrow ; agreed 1 . Home 
in my carriage and paid 6 marks (2 dollars courant). 
Dined in my room, J. attending me. Sent word to 
Mon. 2 Donner that, if he would be at home, I would 
call to pass the evening. He is engaged out. After 
dinner, walked to Hamburg to see what news Hosack 
had got for me. He was abroad dining, but left a 
note and a sack of money, the proceeds of the bill, 
200 dollars. In the morning I had called again on 
Brauer, presented the bill of Luning, and got the 1,000 
marks, so I am at this moment rich. Left the sacks 
at Hosack's and walked home, i. e.> strolled about 
Hamburg for two hours, doing twenty foolish things, 
and spending 2 dollars, but no mus. 1 Took care, 
however, this time to reserve enough to get through 
the gates. Compag. de voyage whom I saw home and 
was introduced to son mar* ! Home at 9. Took tea. 



1 This Minister was Louis Antoine Favelet de Bourrienne, (1769-1834). He had been 
private secretary of Napoleon I., was now Minister Plenipotentiary in Hamburg, and later served 
as Minister of State under Louis XVIII. He wrote the " Memoirs of Napoleon" and therein 
gave the following exceedingly interesting account of this visit of Burr's and his application for 
a passport : " At the height of his glory and power, Bonaparte was so suspicious that the 
veriest trifle sufficed to alarm him. I recollect that about the time the complaints were made 
respecting the Minerva [newspaper], Colonel Burr, formerly Vice-President of the United 
States, who had recently arrived at Altona, was pointed out to me as a dangerous man, and I 
received orders to watch him very closely, and to arrest him on the slightest ground of suspicion 
if he should come to Hamburg. Colonel Burr was one of those in favor of whom I ventured to 
disobey the orders I received from the restless police of Paris. As soon as the Minister of Police 
heard of his arrival at Altona, he directed me to adopt towards him those violent measures which 
are equivalent to persecution. In answer to these instructions, I stated that Colonel Burr con- 
ducted himself at Altona with much prudence and propriety ; that he kept but little company, and 
he was scarcely spoken of. Far from regarding him as a man who required watching, having 
learned that he wished to go to Paris, I caused a passport to be procured for him, which he 
was to receive at Frankfort ; and I never heard that this dangerous citizen had compromised the 
safety of the state in any way." 

2 For Monsieur. 

3 For muse. 

4 Traveling female partner (compagne de voyage) whom I saw home and was introduced to 
her husband (son mart). Compag. may stand for compagnon and son may be an error for sa. 
In that case Burr must have gone home with a man whom he met and have been introduced to his 
wife (sa mari'ee). 

277 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr. 

Lounged till i ; and now, while the watchmen are 
shaking their rattles, I bid you bon soir. Mist and 
fog, with some rain and snow all day. 

26. Rose at 9. Though the day has not been 
cold, and I doubt whether there was frost last night, 
yet I fehfrileuse 1 , and, for the first time, put on my 
flannel waistcoat. You recollect that I traveled from 
Stockholm to Gothenburg, day and night (all night), 
finding half an inch thickness of ice in the morning, 
obstinately refusing to put on this waistcoat. Now I 
am condemned to it for the winter. Sent word to 
Donner that I would call on him at 11. He was 
going out, and would call on me. He called about 
1 1. Sat near an hour, amusing me very much. At 5 

to Mons. , le Ministre de France. T : General 

; Mons. Thierry, and three others. Madame 

et cinq dem's dont V ainee se dit l<f y finely grown for that 
age and a very interesting girl ; sweetness and intelli- 
gence prettily blended; blonde, grande, bien faite\ The 
other four also pretty ; la cadette in costume [of a] 
boy. Mons. occupies a very handsome house on the 
Elbe about three miles below Altona, for which he 
pais 4 1,000 dollars per annum. Madame sa fern, is 
from Leipzig et par. bien aimJ; a very handsome 
young man there partic. attent. 6 Thierry made me 
many civilities. "The History of Pitcairn," of whom 



1 For frileux. Chilly. 

2 Madame and five girls {demoiselles), the eldest (V ainee) of whom calls herself (or is said 
to be) 14. 

J Blonde, tall, well made. 

4 So in the MS. 

5 For farait bien aimable. Appears very amiable. 

6 May be English, particularly attentive, or French particuliirement attentif, with the same 
meaning. 



278 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

everyone speaks well. Bien ri. 1 Home at 9. Ay ant 
assez bu. z Ma J. amused me for an hour. 

27. Couche 1. Rose 9. You have not yet been 
informed, at least by me, that Altona and Hamburg 
are on the same plain, on the north side of the Elbe. 
The territory of Hamburg extends to the very gates 
of Altona. Hamburg is fortified. An immense 
ditch and parapet. Altona not. The gates of Ham- 
burg and Altona are about one-third of an English 
mile apart. A beautiful walk through rows of trees, 
and on the left, going to Hamburg, a wood nearly 
half way. The plain between the two towns belongs 
to Hamburg, and the senate do not suffer any houses. 
A few, however, have formerly been allowed on the 
side nearest Altona. The city of Hamburg is esti- 
mated to contain 100,000 inhabitants, the territory 
about 35,000 more. Altona contains about 27,000. 

It is in Holstein now, and for years past, part 

of Denmark. German is the language of Holstein 
and of Schleswig as well as of Hamburg. Altona is 
below Hamburg, on the Elbe. The contribution 
paid by Hamburg to the French the last three years is 
about 23,000,000 of marks (3 marks to a dollar). 
This is exclusive of the maintenance of the troops who 
have assisted the Hamburgers to govern themselves. 
Now to ourselves. At 5 to dine with Donner. A 
male party of about fifteen, extremely well composed. 
De Blucher, General Waltershoff, Lawaetz, Schoenen, 
Dr. . Every dish is carved at the sideboard, 



I For bien riche. Very rich. 

Z Having drunk enough, i. e., quite a bit. 



279 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

and handed round by a servant, a la Soedoise. Some- 
times a portion is brought you on a plate. Wine of 
different sorts on table, and every one drinks as he 
pleases. Now and then one pledges another. After 
dinner, which lasted at least two hours, all rise 
together, bow, and make compliments. The lady is 
handed out, and all return to the drawing room, where 
coffee is immediately served. About an hour after 
coffee, tea was served in the same manner. One 
retires without taking leave. Mons. B. proposed 
cards, which I declined. Off at y 2 p. 8. The mode 
of entertaining is easy, and everything was in very 
handsome style. Madame is a very lovely little 
woman ; fair, with very black hair, with blue eyes. 
Has three small children, whom I did not see. 
Lawaetz, Conseil d'Etat 1 , engages me to dine with him 
to-morrow. I had not been at home this evening j4 
hour before I was seized with a tormenting toothache. 
This comes of putting on a flannel waistcoat ! Being 
an under-tooth, and hollow, I thought of my old 
remedy, camphor and opium, and have crammed it 
full, which has relieved me so far as to allow me to 
write this, but still growling. 

28. Have had a most uncomfortable night. 
Swallowed of the opium enough to stupify and sicken 
me. The toothache returned and thus I passed the 
night, sleepless. About 7 got asleep, and slept till 11. 
Swallowed the juice of three lemons, and afterward 
took a dish of coffee, but ate nothing. At 2 walked 



I For Conseiller d'Etat. State Councilor. 

280 



Private J our 71 a I of Aaron Burr . 

an hour, but found no relief either from the stupor or 
the pain. Smoking increases it ; however, dressed for 
dinner, and at y 2 p. 4 went in a hack. M. Lawaetz's 
residence is about one English mile below the town, 
beautifully situated on the Elbe. The house is large, 
distributed, and finished in very handsome taste. The 
house is not more than 1 50 yards from the road in a 
direct line, but you are taken round a pretty circular 
or winding road, through trees and shrubs, &c, several 
hundred yards. On our return this was lighted by 
lamps hung in the trees and bushes. There must have 
been near 100 lamps. It was again a male party of 
about twenty. De Blucher, chamberlain and premier 
president 1 ., and le General Waltershoff among the 
guests. Also, the amiable young Donner. In short, 
the grandees of the country. Our host a very 
sprightly, intelligent man, d'un certain age z . Madame 
just such a wife as he ought to have. Both noted for 
their benevolence and goodness. Among the guests 

several learned men ; the Dr. , whom I shall 

ever be glad to see. I was, unfortunately, in bad 
order. The toothache, though not violent, was felt, 
and the stupor and nausea of the opium remained. 
Stole off at 8. The form of the entertainment was as 
yesterday, but in more splendor. The rooms are all 
warmed by stoves ; but these stoves are often a very 
elegant and costly piece of furniture. Pillars, urns, 
statues bronzed, and many whimsical and pretty forms 
of iron, sometimes bronzed or of porcelain. They 



1 First President. 

2 An elderly gentleman, (age). 

28l 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

put something about the stove, I believe frankincense, 
which gave a charming perfume to the air. In the 
country (Holstein) a similar effect is produced by a 
preparation of dried rose-leaves and other fragrant 
herbs. Mons. L. is immensely rich, and has no 
children. Before I had been half an hour home the 
toothache returned with all its violence. I resolved 
to have it out early in the morning ; but how to get 
through the night was the first question. The applica- 
tion of pepper and brandy occurred to me. I applied 
it, and was relieved in ten minutes ; but still there is a 
growling and menacing which alarms me. The opium, 
too, has brought on a headache. It can be only that, 
for I did not eat two ounces, nor drink a single glass 
of wine, though there was a luxurious dinner, and 
wines of a great variety. Among them champagne 
and Burgundy. Bon soir. 

29. It was just as I feared. The toothache 
returned and kept me in misery all night. Towards 
morning I got some sleep and lay till 10. Headache; 
no appetite. Off to Hamburg with my valet (whom 
I forgot to introduce to you, and now have no time) 
to hunt a dentist. He recommended to me Mons. 

, from Paris, as le plus celebre et le meilleur 1 . 

Before we got out of the Altona gate the pain left me, 
and, as the tooth is the most important one of the few 
I have left, postponed my visit to Mons. 2 , and went 
first to Robinson's ; out. Thence to de Chapeau- 
rouge, for whom I have a letter of introduction from 



1 The most famous (cilibre) and the best. 

2 For Monsieur. 



282 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Achaud. At his country seat, but will be home 
to-morrow from 10 to 12. To L. Menard's, for whom 
also a letter from Achaud. He received me very 
courteously, and tendered me all manner of civilities. 
This was unexpected, for he could not hope to make 
money out of me. He is a man of very pleasing 
manners and appearance. Ma J. has been up, and 
interrupted me very pleasantly for more than an hour. 
It is now y 2 p. 12, therefore, philosophically speaking, 
Thursday morning. But to go on with my story. 
Mons. M. is a merchant of high standing, appearing 
about i>6, of an open, frank, cheerful physiognomy. 
" Why did you not deliver these letters on your first 
arrival? ' Why, Madame, in the first place, I have a 
very great aversion to letters of introduction, having 
everywhere found acquaintances, made accidentally, 
the most agreeable and permanent, obviously because 
they are made from sympathy ; second, M'lle M. 
Wollstonecraft, and some other books, had given me 
a prejudice against Hamburg negotiations. I will 
never again believe in anything I read in a book 
(excepting Jeremy Bentham's) ; third, that matter of 
M. gave me some little disgust for Hamburg ; fourth, 
the two letters of Achaud to Sweden, you remember, 
never paid the customary rate of postage. Four such 
good reasons must, I am sure, have satisfied you. 
" Yes, but why, in spite of all these reasons, did you 
deliver them now ? ' : From a certain whim, which I 
will whisper to you, but dare not write. (Do remind 
me to tell you how contraband trade is carried on here.) 

283 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

On my return from town I saw about twenty poor 
women and girls under guard. From Menard's to 
the French Minister's. My valet gave my name to 
the porter of his Excellency, and after waiting several 
minutes in the corridor, received answer that he was 
engaged and could not see me. No appointment of 
any other hour, which I thought odd. Sent back 
Monsieur Francois with my card, requesting to know 
when he would be visible, and walked off. Immedi- 
ately the Minister's valet came running after me, 
asking me to walk in. It seems that a name totally 
unlike mine had come to his ears through the mouths 
of two servants. He received me as might have been 
expected from his former civilities. Gave me a pass- 
port, and, hearing that I was to stay two or three days 
longer, contrary to what I had told him, gave a general 
invitation to his house ; engaged to dine with him 
to-morrow. Thence to see Hosack ; out. Made 
Francois take up my sack of money. Thence to the 
Apollo (something, I will learn what) 1 . It is a build- 
ing containing concert and ball rooms in very hand- 
some style. The concert-room circular, about ninety 
feet diameter ; vaulted and no pillars. Home by 4 
o'clock, having been out five hours, walking the whole 
time except about thirty minutes. The headache came 
on about 1, and increased continually. That infernal 
opium yet ! Found the card of the President de Blu- 
cher, which reminds me of a part of the employment 



I Salon d'Apollon. Apollo's drawing-room. 

284 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

of the day which has been omitted ; and, to explain, I 
must go back to yesterday. Sitting near General W., 
either yesterday or Monday, I intimated that I should 
be very gratified to be present at one of President 
Blucher's courts. He (the General), without any 
orders or knowledge, mentioned it to the President ; 
and when we met again at Lawaetz's, the General told 
me that he was authorized from the President to say 
that it would afford him [pleasure] to receive me at 
his court the next audience day (this day). So this 
morning, when I got to the gate and found the tooth- 
ache missing, my engagement with la Haute Chancel- 
larie 1 came to my mind, and we turned short about to 
go to the audience chamber, which is at the other end 
of the town. On the way, called on Donner to ask 
some renseignments % as to how to get in, and to place 
myself, &c. Mr. D. was in his comtoir z and would 
come forthwith. Madame received me. I made her 
produce her children, a girl and a boy, about 5 and 3. 
It is impossible to imagine anything more lovely than 
they are both. I was quite enraptured with them. 
Then came in the younger Donner, and, finally, 
Mons. Donner. By the time all this had passed it 
was y 2 p. 11, and too late for the court. Mr. D., 
therefore, proposed to show me their museum ; but I 
took for this purpose the younger Donner, and on the 
way left my card at the President's house, and thus you 
account for the card returned this evening. The 
museum is a building of no show, but replete with 

1 ha Haute Chancellerie. The Court of High Chancery. 

2 For renseignements. Information. 

3 For comptoir. Counting-house. 

285 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

convenience. It is maintained by an association of the 
principal gentlemen of the town, who pay about 16 
dollars each a year. The principal gazettes in Europe 
are taken, and new publications and maps. There are 
reading-rooms, conversation-rooms, card-rooms. A 
very convenient ball-room, with parlours and closets, 
and smoking-rooms. Also a very spacious and well- 
laid out garden. The associates meet two evenings in 
the week. Once to sup, and once for conversation, 
&c. Balls, I forget how often in the season. The 
rooms always open to the associates, and to any 
stranger introduced by a member, as now am I. 
Two o'clock is rattling, and I must be up at 7. You 
see that my aches are all cured ; how, you shall hear 
to-morrow. 

30. Had ordered Francois to be here at y 2 p. 7. 
He came, and I rose. Dressed by candle. A very 
thick, chilling fog. Sor. at 10 to Robinson's ; set- 
tled accounts with him, and received a balance due me 
from him and Hosack of 45 dollars. (Note the 
etymology of Thaler Reichstbakr 1 .) To de Netzel's ; 
he has no letters for me. To Hosack's ; engaged 
Hosack and Robinson to breakfast with me to-mor- 
row. To the dentist's ; he thinks he can preserve the 
tooth for me, but the inflammation must subside before 
he can do anything. Home at 1. Found card from 
Menard, and invitation to dine Monday, December 
4th ; declined, being engaged. " Where am I 
engaged ? ' Why, to go out of town, to be sure. 

I Reichsthahr (German) and rigsdaler (Danish) and riisdaler (Swedish) all mean rix 
dollar, or imperial dollar. 

286 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

What the davil do I stay here for ? Did not call 
to-day on de Chapeaurouge ; determined not to deliver 
the letter for all the reasons mentioned yesterday. At 
5 to the French Minister's. He did not return from 

town till 6. T: General Damasque, General 

de Westphalie, Commandant en Hamburg, the maitre de 
postes, le jeu. daug., deux autrs 1 . "C 'est dom. que le roy'e 
de West' a est si petit." "Mais $a aggrandira. En y 
ajoutant the territ's of Hoist., Hamb., et Lubec il serait 
beau." z M'lle Emilie I'ainee est toujours plus jolie et 
interessante^. Off at x / 2 p. 7. To Donner's to sup. 
T: Schoenbron et Dr. Momson le bon homme quefaime 
tant 4 . Madame came in at y 2 p. 9, having been at the 
play. SoupJ at 10. Oysters served raw in the shell. 
The best I had tasted on this side the Atlantic. Then 
a supper in form of meats, fowl, and dessert. A very 
pleasant evening. Home at 12. Ma J. m 'attendait 6 ; 

yi h. av. I. 7 et . Bon soir. 

Altona, December 1, 1809. Couche at 1. Lev. 
at y 2 p. 7, at which hour one must light candle. At 
x / 2 p. 9 came Hosack to breakfast. Gran dejeune 
aprez le caffe et toast et sausage 8 . Wine, cakes, eau 
de vie 9 . Two bottles wine ! Being sunshine for the 
second time since our advent, invited them to walk 



1 The postmaster (maitre de paste), the young (lajeune) daughter, and two others (autres). 

2 " It is too bad ( Cest dommage) that the Kingdom (royaume) of Westphalia is so small." 
" But that'll grow (s^agrandira). By adding to it the territories of Holstein, Hamburg, and 
Liibeck it would be handsome." 

j Miss Emily the eldest (Vainee) is always prettier and prettier, and more and more 
interesting. 

4 The good fellow that I love so much. 

5 For souper. 

6 My J. was awaiting me. 

7 For y 2 heure avec lui (or elle). A half hour with her. If/, is for lui it is an error. 

8 For grand dejeune apris le cafe et toast et sausage. Fine big breakfast after coffee, toast, 
and sausage. 

9 Brandy. 



287 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

out to see Lawaetz's house and garden. Incidents of 
the day : Lawaetz not at home ; but walked over the 
gardens and the rooms which were open in the house. 
The bank appears to be one hundred and fifty feet 
above the level of the river, and the view, as well from 
this garden as from many points on the road, is exten- 
sive and beautiful. There are still many vessels 
sailing up and down. A few years ago many, many 
more. Met General Waltershoff and family. Chez 
nous at i. Walked to Hamburg with H. and R. 
Separate at the gate. To the French Minister's, to 
see the mosaic work, which is truly wonderful. I am 
incredulous even when I touch it, that all this fine 
effect is produced by stones and the natural colour of 
stones. Many civil words. To de Netzel, who 
offers me a letter to Cassel. To hunt bijoux 1 ; 3 rix 
dollars, en do. pr. Jea. z Roved with Francois as my 
guide, and home at 7 sans accident. Tea and Jea. 
filled up the evening. This morning called on Dr. 
Momson, both going and returning from Lawaetz's, 
but out. Had this morning a note from de Chapeau- 
rouge, enclosing letter from Achaud, and asking me 
to dinner to-morrow ; agreed. 

1. Couche at 1. Rose at 9. At 1 1 to Dr. 
Momson's. He gave line of introduction to Madame 
Sieveken, of Hamburg. Walked with him to see 
Schoenbron ; out. To Donner's. T: his sister, a 
very interesting brurite,jo.; taille legere 1 . Headache; 



1 Jewels, trinkets. 

2 Put 3 rix dollars into ditto, (»'. «.,the aforesaid trinkets), for Jeanne. 

} For brunette, jolie ; taille legere. A very interesting and pretty brunette of a slight 
figure. 

288 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

also la soc. de Madame D. 1 Home at I. Thence to 
Hamburg to see Madame Sieveken. Received with 
great politeness. It is a lady of very prepossessing 
appearance. About 50, but exceedingly well preserved. 
Still handsome, mild, intelligent, dignified. V amie de 
Bollman, of whom we talked much. Engaged me to 
dine to-morrow. Hunt bijoux an hour and at y 2 p. 4 
to de Chapeaurouge's to dine. T: Menard et ux., a 
very amiable, cheerful, well-bred woman, who has 
traveled over France and England. In all, about 
twenty-two, of whom five were women. Madame d'C, 
a small, ladylike woman. Mr. d'C. offered letters and 
other civilities. Dinner and wines good. A house 
superbly fitted up, and the company cheerful. Off at 
y z p. 8. It is a custom I do not much approve, that 
the guests give to the servants about a mark or more. 
To Hosack's ; he and R. had gone to the concert. 
Home at 9. Francois showed his address when I 
came down from dinner ; the servant called for my 
carriage. F. said it was not at the door, but waiting 
at a house just by, where I was going ! J. and I 
agreed to drink a bottle of champagne, which we did, 
and sat till y 2 p. 12. 

3. Coucbe at 2, having had a rendezvous which 
failed. Lev. at 10. Tooth and jaws plaguing me 
again. On Saturday (yesterday) Mr. Jacobsen, an 
advocate of great eminence, called on me and introduced 
himself. Having heard from President Blucher that 
I was inquiring into the laws and judicial proceedings 



I Had headache; also the society (la societe) of Madame D. 

289 



Private journal of Aaron Burr . 

of this country, he came to offer his services, &c; so 
this morning went to return his visit and to have a 
talk. He has a very neat, pretty little house and 
large garden in the Pal Maille 1 . Sat an hour. 
Thence home. At 3 to Hambro 2 . Called on Hosack; 
thence at 4 to Madame Sieveken's. There were about 
fifteen, i. e. y eight and seven. Mr. and Mrs. Poole, a 
very sensible couple ; Professor Ebeling ; Professor 
Rimarius, father of Madame S.; de Netzel ; three or 
four sons of Madame S., very handsome, and a daugh- 
ter who will not survive six months. There were 
several other men of learning. I never saw a party 
more chearfuP. I had dismissed Francis 4 for the 
evening, and at 8 walked off alone to Altona, and 
quite to the lower end of the town to Jacobsen's, who 
had invited me to sup. Met about a dozen, equally 
mixed. Madame is handsome and pleasing. Her 
elder sister also handsome ; somberness ; d'un caract. 
plus decidie s . Two sets were at cards. I talked law 
with Mr. J. Played chess with Madame, who plays 

extremely well. M'lle ,juive 6 , played and sang. 

A fine voice and mistress of music. Off at ^ p. 1 1 . 
Then an hour with J. 

4. Couche at 3. Another rendezvous which 
failed and had nearly done mischief. Robinson came 
in before I was out of bed, i. e. y about 10 o'clock. In 
bad order ; tooth and jaws, but the lip which was 



1 The Palmaille is the most fashionable street in Altona. 

2 For French Hambourg or German Hamburg. 

3 So in the MS. 

4 Here Burr anglicizes the name of his valet. 

5 Of a more decided character. (D'un caractere plus decide.) 

6 Jewess. 



29O 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr. 

bitten by a venomous animal on Friday last has 
swollen, and is very painful. I did not mention it 
before, because the origin of the thing is so ridiculous 
that I wished to hush it up ; for the bite was given in 
a paroxysm of great good humour. Hosack came in 
just after we had done breakfast. At 12 came in Mr. 
Jacobsen, by appointment, to attend the court with 
me. Left my young friends and went with Mr. J. to 

the court. The President not there. His chair 

vacant. The burgomasters ; the police-officers. I 
was introduced to all the advocates. There are but 
six. The number is limited. Have no time to detail 
the proceedings. Home at y 2 p. 1. At 1 to Ham- 
burg, to de Chapeaurouge's ; out. To Menard's ; 
saw him, Madame, and her brother. Madame had 
just had a tooth drawn. I was just going to have one 

drawn. Mr. M. went with me to , a society, 

where are newspapers, new publications, &c. He 
inscribed my name, which gives admission. We were 
then to have gone to see the senate and burgomasters 
en costume 1 and in session ; but they had adjourned. 
I called, by appointment, on Robinson, to take him 
with me on this walk, but he had not come in. 
Thence to Hosack's, where dined. My tooth still 
growling. At length made up my mind to have it 
[drawn], notwithstanding the serious loss it will be to 
me, to say nothing of the pretty operation of drawing. 
Went off to the dentist's full of resolution. He was 
out, and would not be home till the morning. So 



I In costume. 



291 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr. 

that I shall have again to make all this effort to get 
myself in a tooth-drawing humour. Went thence, by 
appointment, to Professor Ebeling's. He is a most 
cheerful, amiable man of about 62. Perfectly deaf. 
The only mode of communication with him is by writ- 
ing. He always carries in his pocket pencil and 
paper; and, when he asks a question, hands them to 
you to reply. When he has had your answer, he 
returns it to you ; because, he says, persons may not 
choose to have their free conversations preserved in 
writing. He speaks, however, extremely well, both 
French and English. Takes great interest in all that 
concerns Americans. Is writing a statistical, geo- 
graphical, political, cal, &c, account of the 

United States. Has a quarto volume for each state, 
beginning North, and has got South as far as Virginia. 
I saw twelve of these quartos. The bruillard 1 is 
printed interleaved with blank paper, on which he 
continually makes his additions and corrections. His 
library of American books, i. e.> books on American 
affairs, is nearly as large as all the Richmond Hill 
library. Geography is more particularly his depart- 
ment ; and the extent and accuracy of his knowledge 
is astonishing. A part of his American works were 
published a few years ago. You will receive a copy, 
addressed to you by himself, as he understands that 
you read and write German. Passed near three hours 
with this amiable man. Home at 9. Omitted : 
Called on Madame Sieveken this morning, and sat x / 2 



I For brouillard. Blotter or waste-book — the first record book. 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

hour. The state of her daughter's health seemed to 
depress her. Mr. Menard this morning gave me four 
letters of introduction for different persons in Ger- 
many. Begged that I would advise him if I went to 
Paris, that he might introduce me to his friends there. 
Brought home my tooth and my lip, both in bad 
condition. Tea with J. Will go early to bed and 
pos. 1 go before breakfast to the dentist's, in Hamburg, 
about two and a half miles, and get rid of the tooth. 
You don't believe me, but I will. Mem.: The St. 
Michael's church at Hamburg ; height of steeples. 
Conversation with Ebeling. A canal now in use from 
the Elbe to the Drave. You go to the Elbe — miles 

to and then ascend a small stream to a lake, 

whence a canal about six English miles to the Drave ; 
down to Lubeck. It is only practicable for very small 
boats and very narrow. The canal of Charlemagne 
which joined the Rhine to the Danube by the Main 
is about to be reopened. Eh bien, allcz vous me deplu- 
mer? z Hamburg funeral ; see the plate. No lamps 
in Altona except Palmaille and near some public build- 
ings. News of arrivals of nine more American vessels 
at Tonningen. Intercourse with England death 3 . 

5. I did go to bed at 12 and rose before 7, when 
it is as dark as at midnight. Dressed in the dark, 
having made arrangements therefor, and before a 
creature in the house had moved, sallied forth fasting 



1 Positively. 

2 Well, are you going to displume me >. 

1 Referring doubtless to the Berlin Decree of 1806, in which Napoleon proclaimed that the 
harbours of neutrals were closed against British ships under penalty of war with France, and 
the confiscation of ships and goods. 



193 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

to the dentist's. He was abed. I had him called up 
in great haste, and what might not have been expected, 
he met me with great good humour. He advised 
strongly against drawing the tooth. Could give me 
an application which, if I would confine myself for the 
day, would take out the pain and inflammation, and 
then he would plombe 1 it. How easily one receives 
advice when it concurs with one's wishes ! Like a 
fool, I listened, and came offwith his application, which 

is flowers of 2 and rye meal ; a dry cushion 

applied hot and frequently heated. J. made the 
cushions very quick and very nice, and has been all 
day heating and applying them. It has soulageed 1 a 
little, but still the jaw is not in a condition to travel 
with or to be plombeed. I am very much inclined, not 
quite resolved, to have the tooth drawn to-morrow. 
Sent F. to Donner with a note about money matters, 
and then to town ; vid. all the notes, a whole dozen of 
them. Received a very kind letter from Ebeling, with 
four letters of introduction to different learned men. 

Din. Soup. Tea with J. Her lover, young , 

hearing that I was indisposed, came to see me and 
tendered his services. He is a very handsome and 
amiable young man. Have had no other visit to-day. 
Intended to have written a great many letters to distant 
friends, but have not written a line. My principal 
occupation has been in running over a vast pile of 
American papers which Ebeling sent me. I opened 



1 Burr has anglicized the French verb plomber, to stop a tooth. 

2 Possibly camomile. 

3 Another hybrid verb from the French verb loulager, to alleviate. 



294 



Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

your picture yesterday to gratify J., who has the same 
taille\ eyes, and mouth. Got my bill, which frightens 
me to death. Seventy-three marks for the last eight 
days ; equal to 20 species dollars, and Francois not 
included ! I must, I will be off, if it be only to 
Hamburg ; but not to-morrow. To-morrow I must 
go to President Blucher's court, having been twice 
expected there and failed, but next day (to-morrow) I 
do think I shall go. 

6. Couche at 12. Had a bad night. That 
bitten lip gave me the most intolerable pain. Very 
like the application of a hot coal. The jaw, too, was 
not quite silent. Got up at 7, and dressed in the 
dark, and without fire, being resolved to attend Presi- 
dent Blucher's court. Francois came presently and 
helped me. Got breakfast at 8, and, having sent my 
greatcoat to the taylor's 1 for improvement, took coach 
and went to Jacobsen's (but first I wrote notes to 
Robinson, and Hosack, and Netzel, and sent off 
Francois to Hamburg with them). Mr. Jacobsen is 
author of a very learned treatise on maritime law, 
which I shall send out to the United States. Sat an 
hour with him ; greatly interested by his communica- 
tions on Holstein and Altona law. Then to court. 
The President received me with great politeness, and 
gave me a chair at his right hand. Staid in court two 
hours, during which time more than forty causes were 
despatched in a manner quite new to me, and highly 
interesting. In the deportment of the President 



1 Figure. 

2 So in the MS. 



295 



Private jf o u r n a I of Aaron Burr. 

there was a happy combination of dignity, courtesy, 
intelligence, and despatch. Remind me to relate to 
you the trial between a sea captain and a little girl 
whom he had enticed from Redensburg, and aban- 
doned here, where he has/m. Between a widow lady 
and her lover ; he had lent her money ; how the 
account was balanced. A suit by a girl for breach of 
promise of marriage. Several cases of debt acknowl- 
edged. Of the manner of giving bail for a stranger 
(citizens or burghers give none). No imprisonment 
for debt in Holstein or Altona. Tools of a trade, 
necessary furniture, &c, cannot be taken in execution. 

A singular custom called , and the manner of 

executing it. The President in another district, where 
he presided, at first gave all gratis. No fee for sum- 
mons, &c. The consequences and the charge; 4 sch. 
for citation. Having dismissed my coach and paid 
him 24 sch., walked, sans greatcoat, and the weather 
bleak and raw, to Donner's ; out ; but his younger 
brother settled my money affairs. Home just before 
1. Found Hosack and Robinson had just gone. I 
wished to see them, and wrote them this morning as 
you see, not to come before 1 o'clock. They came at 
12 and went off just before 1. I had, with very great 
reluctance, left the court merely to observe my 
appointment with them ! The President asked me to 
dine on Friday, which declined. Must, and will go 
off. At 2 to Hamburg. To Hosack for Y / 2 hour. 
To la veu. cap. de Prus. 1 ; 72 sch. To the library 



For la veuve [du] Capitaine de [la] Prune, The widow of the Prussian Captain. 

296 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

to see Professor Ebeling. Passed ^ hour with 
him, and always much amused. Received another 
letter from him. Then dismissed Francois, and went 
to the dentist's with the full determination to have out 
the tooth, in spite of his advice or remonstrances. 
He was out. To la veu.prus. 1 an hour, and home at 
5, not having dined nor having any appetite. The 
jaw more swollen and very painful. Tea with J. 
Sent out for the ingredients of what, in the family, we 
used to call Matt's salve, and set Francois to cook it, 
which he did very ill. Applied a large plaister 2 to the 
place affected. Lay down and got asleep ; but the lip, 
which is worse and worse, and which I am at a loss 
what to think of, waked me after an hour. Found 
the jaw much relieved, and now quite in repose ; but 
the lip gives me such strange twinges that I am afraid 
to lay 2 down, for it is much worse. What strange 
sort of poison can this be, which does not diffuse 
itself, but rankles in that spot ? The lip is a little 
swollen and quite numb, not painful, except by 
twinges, which become more frequent and tough. 
Donner called while I was in Hamburg. The Presi- 
dent is very like the late Dr. Ledyard. Could 
discern the sun this forenoon, but now raining again. 
What infernal roads I shall have if I should ever get 
out of Altona ! 

7. Couche at 12 and slept very well till 8. Only 
two twinges of the lip. The swelling in the face not 
having subsided, and a dull pain in the jaw keeping 



1 For la veuve frussienne. The Prussian widow. 

2 So in the MS. 



297 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

me in constant bad humour, immediately after break- 
fast took a hack, and set off for the dentist's. Fran- 
cois had been sent to Hamburg early in the morning. 
The coachman mistook his directions, or was not 
acquainted with the town of Hamburg. I could not 
inform him, as he understood not a word of French 
or English. He drove about the city a full hour, 
stopping frequently to ask questions, probably to get 
directions. At length, seeing no end to the journey, 
I got out and after walking half an hour, during which 
got my feet wet, found ourselves on the north side of 
the Lake Alster ; whence, however, I could see the 
place of our destination, and, having shown it to him, 
I got in again. The fellow was so sulky that he 
would not get off the box to shut the door, and stood 
still full five minutes, till a person passing by shut the 
door for us. Finally, got to the dentist's, and went 
in with the full determination not to listen to a word of 
his advice. He was abroad, and not expected home 
till night ! To Hosack's quarters to inquire for 
another dentist. The servant knew of one in the 
neighbourhood. Sent him to see if he were at home. 
After y 2 hour's absence, returned with an answer that 
the dentist would call on me immediately. This was 
exactly what I did not wish, for two obvious reasons, 
so drove off to the dentist's house. It is a very 
handsome house, and I was received with politeness, 
too much for the occasion, by a well-dressed gentle- 
man and lady. The lady came up to me officiously, 
and was about to apply her hands to my face. Wish- 

298 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

ing to get rid of her, I very civilly begged her not to 
trouble herself; that I had come to have a tooth 
drawn. " Eh bien^ Monsieur ', c est mot qui vais Varra- 
cher." " Vous, Madame ? ' " Oui, moi." " Mais 
voyonSy est ce que vos petites mains ont la force?" "Vous 
en serais convainqu et content'" 1 . I submitted, and she 
drew the tooth very quick and perfectly well. Paid i 
ducat (two species). Home at i, in ten times more 
pain than I went out. Lay on the bed and slept an 
hour. The pain still continues (10 P. M.), though 
not so violent, but enough to unfit me for writing 
anything but this. Whilst talking with you, I can 
forget the pain for half an hour together. Received 
this afternoon a note from Ebeling, apologizing that 
he could not call on me, having been seized with a 
colic. Response, q. v. Sent apology to de Blucher 
that I could not dine with him to-morrow ; indisposi- 
tion. Received from Jacobsen a message and present 
of a book on Holstein law, with explanatory notes in 
his own hand ; and thus I have passed the day. Alas, 
at this rate, when shall I get to Paris ; and when to 
you ! J. and her lover have been very attentive to 
me. Looking at the map since writing the above, I 
see that I was north of the Binnen-Alster, having 
passed over that causeway which divides the Binnen 
from the Grosse-Alster*. It affords on each side a 



I " Well, sir, I am the one that is going to draw it." " You, Madame!" " Yes, I." 
" But, let's see, are your little hands strong enough >. " " You'll be convinced of it and satis- 
fied." {Vous en serene convaincu et content.) 

z Besides the Elbe, there are two small rivers at Hamburg called the Alster and the Bille. 
The former, flowing from the north, forms a large basin, outside the town, and a smaller one 
within it, called the Aussen-Alster and Binnen-Alster respectively, and then intersects the town 
in two main branches. The Aussen-Alster (outside) being much the larger is often called the 
Grosse-Alster. 



299 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

fine view, but I was not much in the humour to 
enjoy fine views. Raining all this evening. Twelve 
o'clock. J. had been to a dinner and party with her 
lover, and has just been passing an hour with me. 
Had been very successful in the toilette. Simply, 
but prettily mise 1 . Showed her the watch ring, by 
which you will know that it is safe. 

8. Couche at I. Lev. at 8. Have found very 
little relief, I believe none, by the loss of the tooth. 
The jaw continues in the same state of inflammation, 
which has now extended to the glands of the throat. 
A very restless and uncomfortable night. At 10 came 
in Robinson, and ]/ 2 p. 1 1 H. Great distress about 
the finances of the latter. Received this morning a 
very kind note from Ebeling, with some more Amer- 
ican papers. Young Wirtz et sa Dulciri 1 . Very 
attentive to me. Not stirred out all day. Determined 
to try the infallible remedy of fasting. Took no din- 
ner ; nothing. Tea at 8 with J. Wrote to Hauterive 
a very short and rather morose letter, q. v. Wrote 
also to the Minister of Police in Paris. Sent Francois 
to Hamburg on sundry errands, particularly to call on 
de Chap, and de Netzel to ask if any letters. None. 
Have done nothing more but lounge all day, and 
went over the Cests 1 this evening. The starving has 
done a leetle good. Yes, answered Ebeling's note by 
his servant. At 1 1 had wine, hot water, and sugar 
with J. 



1 Dressed. 

2 Dulcin. for Dulcinea [del Toboso], the lady beloved by Don Quixote in Cervantes's rom- 
ance. Used here for sweetheart. The Spanish name is made from the Latin adjective dulcis, 
sweet. 

3 See Glossary. 



300 



Private J o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

9. Worse and worse ! All the teeth, neighbours 
of the departed, have combined in vengeance ! Sat up 
till 1 this morning, and then went to bed because I 
had no more candle. Wrote H. and R. that I should 
not go to-day. Might as well write that I shall never 
go; vid. the notes. Wrote also to Monsieur de Bour- 
rienne, enclosing my letter to the Minister of Police 1 , 
&c, q. v. y and sent off Francois with them all. Young 
Donner came and sat an hour with me. Have been 
laying on the bed half the day in much pain. J., 
whose attentions are unremitted, boiled figs in milk, 
and applied them warm to the part most affected in 
the gums, which has had a good effect. But J., being 
strongly opposed to my starving system, insisted so 
much on my eating, that I took a very little (not half 
a pint) of boiled milk by way of dinner, and in two 
hours had a violent headache. To remove this took 
cr. ta. punch, which, indeed, has carried off the head- 
ache, but in a way that will keep me up the whole 
night. At 2 o'clock A. M. of Sunday I write this. 
The fig application has had a most wonderful effect ; 
the swelling is much reduced, and I am at this moment 
quite free from pain ; but the soreness remains. Think 
of traveling to-morrow ! Will that be prudent ? It 
shall depend on the weather. Have been sorting and 
burning papers all the evening, i. <?., since 11, and 



I This letter, dated Hamburg, December 8, 1809, and addressed " To the Minister of Police, 
Paris," read as follows : " The undersigned, desiring to visit Paris from motives of curiosity and 
amusement only, has the honour to request that a passport for that purpose may be transmitted 
to the officer of police in Maycnce, where he (the undersigned) proposes to be in the course of 
a month. Lest any doubt may arise as to his country, he would add, that his person and his 
handwriting are known to Mons. le Comte de Volney, to Mons. d'Hauterive, and to many other 
French gentlemen who have traveled in the United States. — A. Burr." 



3d 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

must now write a letter — not to thee, hussy, but to 
that good Liining. 

10. Couche at 2. The jaws plagued me "more 
or less " all night. Rose, however, with the determi- 
nation to go. The pain, however, increased, and 
retarded my proceedings, and by 1 1 found it utterly 
impossible to be ready by 1, the hour at which the 
boat goes. The pain became so violent that I was 
obliged to muffle up and lay down. It occurred to 
me that I was just a fit subject for a stool wagon, and 
fit for nothing else. Got up and fell to packing, 
which had not yet been begun. Wrote notes to 
Hosack and Ebeling and sent off Francois. H. C. 
Donner came in and sat half an hour. Oh, wrote to 
Liining the father that I should cross the river 
to-morrow on my way to his house, and sent letter to 
the post-office. Francois returned at 5 with note from 
Hosack. He had done nothing, attempted nothing 
in his own affairs. Young Wirtz to tender services. 
J.'s unremitted attention. The application of the 
cushions at length relieved me. No dinner ; no 
appetite. Tea at 7. J. in the evening ; very, very. 
Adieu ; my next will be from the other side the Elbe, 
once Hanover, now . 

Harburg, December 11, 1809. You see that I 
have actually got out of Altona ! Some tears were 
shed at parting. After having been so many days 
confined to a warm room, my head wrapped up with 
bandages, my first sortie has been to the ferry, and 
three hours on the water in an open boat, exposed to 



302 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

a very strong gale, and without any bandage ; and 
under this process the pain has left me, though I do 
assure you I was chilled to the very bone. Hosack 
and Robinson called on me about 12 ; at I came to 
the ferry, where waited a full hour. Robinson goes 
to Leipzig. Hosack stays at Hamburg, so that I shall 
make this journey without a servant and without a 
companion, totally ignorant of the language, and in 
the very worst season of the year. Yet do not be 
alarmed, we shall get along and find amusement. I 
have just taken tea and biscuit, by way of dinner and 
supper. The inn is comfortable and neat. Have 
been talking an hour with a very intelligent traveler 
who speaks English. Have written letters to Liming, 
to H., and to R.; and this morning before leaving 
Altona, wrote to Gahn and to Montval, \le sourd et 
muef\\ the deaf and dumb, q. v. Your picture gave 
me a great deal of plague, and but for J., I should 
never have got it well put up. I have a great mind 
to roll you up again, and pack you away in the trunk, 
though your great and good friend, Breda, so strongly 
remonstrated against it. He also varnished and put 
you in frame from mere love. And now, at 12, am 
just going to bed, having ordered horses for 7 in the 
morning. Written in my bedroom without a fire. 

Wille 2 , three miles from Harburg, December 12, 
1 809. Had got to bed and blown out my candle last 
night, when I found that the sheets were very damp. 
After laying a few minutes thought I felt some twinges 

1 These French words appear in the Journal with a line drawn through them. 

2 For Welle. 

303 



Private J our n a I of Aaron Burr . 

in the jaw, and finding no disposition to sleep, began 
to apprehend a sleepless and uncomfortable night. 
Presently in comes Francois with a candle. " <$u est 
ce que vous voulez ?" " Monsieur, vous navez ordonne 
de vous eveiller a sept heures et sept heures vient de 
sonner 1 ." I looked at my watch and it was so. Thus 
I had slept six hours so perfectly that I was no way 
conscious of having been asleep. Embar. 2 at getting 
off". Expenses. Stopped at the Commandant's to 
show passport. At 8 got fairly out of the town. A 
fine view of Hamburg and Altona. Clear, windy, 
cold, not winter cold, but a little ice, &c. Rise a hill 
of fifty or sixty feet, broken little hills for ^ mile, 
then less broken, but sandy, barren, and bleak. 
Neither trees nor enclosures. Three little clusters of 
houses, eight or ten each. Some small patches of 
wood. Houses of plaister ; very few of brick, all 
covered with thatch, which acquires a green moss. 
The roof, as in Holstein, coming within five feet of 
the ground. The greater part of the houses without 
chimneys. There are five or six houses at Wille. It 
is relieved by the small patches of woods which sur- 
round it. My breakfast is tea, bread and butter, 
boiled beef, and potatoes ; all good. The beef slightly 
salted and a little smoked, is excellent. This is the 
first meat I have tasted in eight days ; 8 b. gro. J for 



I " What do you want i" " Sir, you ordered me to wake you at 7 o'clock, and 7 o'clock 
has just struck." (Viennent de sonner.) 

I For embarras. Embarrassment. 

3 For bons, i. e., Gufe-groschen. The groschen was a silver coin varying in value between 
2 and 3 cents. In some German provinces it was worth j\ of a thaler, in others ^ of the same. 
In Silesia and certain other regions, the former coins of greater value and somewhat large size 
came to be known as Guf«-groschen to distinguish them from the /fai'ser-groschen and the 
Mdrien-groschen or S«7£er-groschen, which were also called simply groschen. 

304 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr. 

breakfast ; 1 mar. to dinner ; Jung., 4 grb.; Wagmr 8 1 . 

At 9 P. M. arrive at 2 , being seven miles from 

Harburg, and here I stay for the night. While fire is 
making in my room, I am in the family room, where 
they are making sausages. Four women at a large 
table chopping meat. They have knives shaped like 
a horseshoe, but larger than half a plate. Each end is 
a handle, so that it is held in both hands. Two beau- 
tiful little girls, children of the host, running about 
and helping. Rain and hail soon after leaving Wille. 
The wind blew a tempest right in our teeth. Night 
overtook us two miles from Wille. The roads are so 
very bad that having been thirteen hours from Har- 
burg, I have made only seven miles. The whole way 
open, uncultivated, barren plains. The roads very 
like those from Bowling Green to Petersburgh, [Va.], 
at this season. No trees ; now and then a patch of 
wood, which is always the sign of a house ; the houses 
being always placed in a patch of forest trees. One 
flock of about one hundred sheep, all black, and a 
herd of about fifty cattle, is all I have seen. The 
country all this distance from Harburg is dreary, and 
has a desolate appearance. At this place is the first 
church in all the distance (about thirty-two English 
miles), and the first village. This contains only about 
— houses. This tavern, which is also the post-house, 
is very good. My ignorance of the language will cost 
a dollar to-night. I told the landlord, who speaks a 
little French, to give me my supper in this room, 

1 Probably for z marks to (i. *., for) dinner ; to the boy ( Junge),$ groschen ; to the carriage- 
master ( W^agenmeister), 8. 

2 Rethem sur TAller. 

3°S 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

meaning my tea, having thought of no other supper. 
The tea was brought in, but without anything to eat. 
Asked for bread and butter, and it was brought. He 
then asked if I would have my supper now. Yes. 
Then was brought soup and beef bouilli^ roast goose, 
bread, butter and cheese. I tasted all and found all 
excellent, and asked for wine, which I am always better 
without. Had a very pleasant French white wine. 
Rethem sur l'Aller. There, I have made the land- 
lord write down for me the name of this village. 

13. Couche at 12. Rose y 2 p. 6. The supper 
did me no good. Off at y 2 p. 7. Snow, rain, and 
wind in our teeth. Pass into a barren plain about one 
mile English. Then woods which had been planted. 
A chateau, that is, a coarse two-story brick house ; 
two miles and four or five farmhouses. Then plain, 
two or three miles, again. Stop for snaps 1 at a pleas- 
ant little valley through which runs a lively brook. 
(Ou.: If all brooks are not lively after a heavy rain.) 
The farmhouses are thus : You enter a large barn 
door ; on each side cattle in stalls with their heads 
towards the middle or passage. At the farther end 
you see a fire in a sort of oven, and ranged along on 
one or both sides of it, kitchen utensils. On one side 
you open a door into the common eating-room, in 
which is a stove heated by the aforesaid oven. Here 
my postillion took snaps and stuckey* for which I paid 
4 bon-gros. Was glad to stop, being very cold. 

1 Burr's spelling of schnapps, a popular drink. 

2 Probably for schnapps and Rundstiichchen. The latter were small round pieces of well 
baked bread, like buns without the sweetening. They were much eaten in Northern Germany. 

306 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

There are four or five such farmhouses in this valley. 
Rising very gently the plain for one mile English to 
the right or west, an extensive view. On the summit 
of this plain, woods, in which are a great number of 
buildings about fourteen feet square. Roof-boards 
and sides wickerwork. No chimney or window ; 
what can they be for ? Descend gently, a village 
and church to the left on the low plain now before 
us. A rope ferry (the river Aller); land on an island, 
$A English mile on a raised causeway ; trees on each 
side. A bridge which brings you to the station and 
town of , whence this is written, at a most com- 
fortable house. Two beautiful flik., one bio., one bru. 1 , 
both speaking French, not sisters, but too busy to 
speak much. Got breakfast ; coffee, two portions of 
sugar, three portions of milk, three eggs. At the last 
stage I was told that there were four regiments 
(French) in Nionsborg 2 . Here the lady says there 
are none at all. We shall know presently, being only 
2*4 miles off. The stoves. A gallant horse, going 
on at a great rate. A hand, issuing from a cloud and 
holding a wreath, crowns the horse. Motto: " In 
recto decus"\ Paid 3 dollars 20 gro. to postillion, 1 
gro. to dom. I forgot to tell you that while we were 
at the valley mentioned on the preceding page, the 
storm ceased, and the sun came out. In the ferry- 
boat with me were five paysans, or bourgeois 4 , all in 

1 For two beautiful flickas, one blonde, one brunette. Burr is still using the Swedish word 
for lasses. 

2 For Nienburg-on-the-Weser. 

3 Latin. Honour in rectitude. 

4 The paysans are country people, peasants, while the bourgeois are city people of the middle 
or trading class. 

307 



Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

the same costume, viz., a long blue coat, straight 
before, worked worsted buttons, three-cornered hat, 
black neck-cloth or silk handkerchief, &c. 

Nionsborg, 6 P. M. Almost a dead plain the 
whole way. Either wading in mud and water or 
ploughing through sand. We were three and a half 
hours coming these two miles, and I cannot complain 
of the postillion. The lady was right. There are no 
troops here. It is a smart little town, but here no 
calash is to be had. I must either go in an open 
wagon more than three miles, or wait till morning. 
I'll go ! 

Sulingen, December 14, 1809. I did come on 
in an open wagon last night, and was from 7 till 1 
o'clock — six hours coming a little more than three 
miles ! You who love so to ride fast would die to go 
at this rate. I could walk much faster ; but then, 
how transport my little malle 1 and the picture ? A 
little before entering Nionsborg, and for half a mile 
this side, the country enclosed with hedges and ditches. 
Then a small village of half a dozen farm-houses ; a 
few very small hills. Then more than a mile without 
a house, save one, which appeared uninhabited. All 
the way open plain. Some pretty forests, however, 
planted by the late sovereign, George III., both oak 
and pine. Near Rethem, too, is also a small forest of 
fine old oak trees. At 1 arrived at Mr. Liming's, the 
father of my young friend. The madgeri 1 made me 
fire and got tea. Couche at 2, but hating to give more 

1 Trunk. 

2 For Miidchen, i. e., Dienstmadchen. Maid-servant. 

308 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

trouble, slept under the down {duvet) bed, the univer- 
sal covering in this country and in Denmark and 
Holstein. In twenty minutes one of these things 
heats me up to about 150 of Fahrenheit; then I 
throw all off till I got cooled down to the freezing 
point ; then heat again, and so on, repeating the process. 
Not very refreshing. At 7 was very glad to see the 
madgen come in with candle and fire. Mr. Liming 
came in and invited me to take breakfast with him 
below, which did. Exceedingly mortified that I had 
passed at Nionsborg a brother of Dr. Bollman, a 
merchant, very handsomely established there. Another 
brother, well settled in trade at Hoya, three miles from 
this. A sister, Madame , married to an apoth- 
ecary at Liineberg, also well. I cannot now go to see 
any of them. Mr. Liining offers to go with me 
anywhere and everywhere. Insists on my staying a 
fortnight, &c, but I'll do no such thing, though 
nothing can be more kind than every member of the 
family. There are eight children, three girls and five 
boys, of whom all are at home except the two elder 
sons. You shall have some account of them another 
time. I am now planning how to pursue my journey. 
The post extra is horribly expensive. It has cost me 
1 8 dollars from Harburg to this. The diligence goes 
day and night, and at the rate of about one mile in 
three hours. An open wagon. Think of trying it to 
Hanover ! 

15. At length I yielded to the solicitations of 
Eleonora and Doris and opened the picture. No 

3°9 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

small labour ; for, to secure it more perfectly, I had 
covered it with cartridge paper, sealed down to the 
edge of the box, and over that the lid tied by an hun- 
dred cords. It is in perfect order, and was greatly 
admired. Of course, a thousand questions about you. 
The girls did it up again without my aid. Lest I 
should lead you into error as to the soil and means of 
subsistence in this country, observe that the cattle are 
not seen abroad, because they are housed. Though 
the soil be thin, yet cultivations are seen more or less 
extensive, and where you see a house there is an air of 
comfort and even abundance. Though no enclosures 
are seen except in and near the towns and villages, yet, 
as cattle are not allowed to run at large, this is no 
impediment to cultivation. The meat is very fine. 
Everywhere good bread ; both wheat and rye are as 
cheap as on our seacoast. The common fuel is turf, 
which is very pleasant for stoves, and so very cheap 
that Mr. L., who has a very large family, and a house 
as big as six of yours at the Oaks 1 , told me that his 
fuel cost him but about 12 louis (about 50 dollars) 
per annum. Taxes are light, even now under the 
French administration. The tax on land is about 1 
cents per acre. The French government derive a 
revenue of about two millions per annum from this 
country (Hanover); but this is the mere conjecture of 
those I conversed with. I cannot perceive the sources 
of one-half that sum. Whilst this country was held 
by George III., he made a point that the whole reve- 

I Theodosia's residence near Georgetown, S. C. 

3IO 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

nue drawn from the electorate should be expended 
within it. It was not, however, appropriated, that I 
can learn, to useful purposes. After leaving you last 
night, I weighed again the merits of going to Bremen, 
to Hoya, whither Mr. Liining proposes to eschort 
me with his carriage, or of going on my route. The 
different projects preponderated alternately. At length 
I resolved to go on, and to go with the diligence, the 
most detestable, the slowest, and the cheapest of all 
modes. Went to work, packed all up, and lay down 
at 12, expecting every minute the diligence. Slept 
sound till the madgen came in to make fire at 7, for I 
had got rid of the down covering, and had a light 
warm quilt in place. Hearing nothing of the dili- 
gence, took another nap till 8, and now at 12, it has 
not arrived. While I am writing, le bon L. 1 has been 
up to offer new parties and allurements to detain. 
Eleonora and Doris, too, have used some pretty arts ; 
but I shall resist all and go. Walked over the village 
this morning with Mr. Liming, his mills, houses and 
farms. It is a wealthy establishment, in that style of 
simplicity which leaves one at ease. Doris is manager 
this week. She is a beautiful creature of 1 5 ; more 
natural grace, and sweetness, and modesty, without 
mauvaise honte z , I never saw. Played chess last night 
with Eleonora ; then she gave me a number of songs, 
accompanied with the piano. Her voice is very fine, 
and just enough formed to leave a little of the wild- 
ness of nature. Just now school is out, and I counted 



1 The good Liining. 

2 Bashfulness. 



3 11 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

passing my window 104 children of each sex. It is 
fair to conclude that as many went the other way, for 
we are adjoining the priest's house, opposite the 
church, in the center of the village, which appears to 
have about sixty houses. Not one mean. But let 
me tell you how we got on from Nionsborg. There 
was a cold wind in our face. Took away the seat ; 
filled the wagon with straw ; sat down on the straw, 
with my back to the horses ; made the postillion sit 
right against me. Being a full-blooded fellow, his 
back served as well to lean against as to keep me 
warm. In five minutes I could feel him through all 
my clothes, like a heater. He had his flint, steel, and 
tinder, and we kept our pipes going the whole day. 
During the six hours, from 7 to 1, I did not get out 
of the wagon, nor did I suffer. Every minute some 
one of this amiable family is offering me some kind- 
ness or civility. One brings me a fine apple, another 
a pear, another a new pipe or better tobacco, and they 
are all in constant good humour with each other. 
All the children, except the youngest (Christopher), 
speak French fluently. 

Nieustadt 1 , December 16, 1809. The diligence 
came into Sulingen at 3 P. M., and at 4 I got in and 
we moved on towards Nienburg, which is again my 
route. Arrived there at 11. Two passengers in the 
diligence. A pleasant Frenchman, and a German who 
speaks only German. They were going to Hamburg. 
So that at Nienburg we parted ; first having taken tea 
together, for which paid 10 bon-gros. — very dear. I 

I For Neustadt. 

312 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

am quite satisfied with the diligence. It is spacious, 
warm, well cushioned, and, as we never go off a walk, 
for a good nap. But, alas, from Nienburg to Han- 
over it is an open wagon. Submitted, therefore, once 
more to the experiment of post extra. The fellow 
charged 6 bon-gros. additional for a covered calash, 
which is an imposition. Left Nienburg at 12 and 
arrived here at 6, the distance being two miles and a 
half. Think of such a rate of traveling ! Not quite 
twelve English miles in six hours. The calash, too, 
was badly closed, so that I suffered with the cold. 
Nevertheless slept three hours, and find myself 
refreshed and well. The family all asleep when we 
arrived. In five minutes had a good fire, and in 
fifteen minutes excellent coffee, bread, and butter, 
served by a girl, the model of good humour. There 
must be good humour naturally, when it is exhibited 
after being waked, &c, on a cold frosty morning. 
Neustadt is on a little river, a branch, I suppose, of 
the Aller. An excellent stone bridge ; gates, but no 
walks. Has about one hundred and fifty houses. 

Hanover, December 16, 1809. Arrived at 11 
this morning, my last postillion being much better 
than his predecessor. From Neustadt to this place 
you are the whole day between rows of trees planted 
on each side the road, which is also ditched on each 
side and raised in the middle ; but it is only the sand 
thrown up, so that the road is very pretty and very 
bad. On leaving Neustadt, saw to the right a range 
of blue hills (the first I have seen since crossing the 

3 l 3 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Elbe), distant, apparently, about four leagues. There 
are hopes, therefore, of getting off this tiresome plain. 
Had two letters from Liming to Hasse and to another 
person. Took lodgings with the former, a cheerful 
man of 70. The letter procured me a good room and 
good attendance. The other, Mr. Menzzer, is quite 
a young man. He has been running about with me 
all day. It is a beautiful little town, containing 
16,000 inhabitants. The river, a branch of the Aller, 
is made to surround it. Promenade and extensive 
rows of trees everywhere, but nothing of its former 
splendour. Many valuable and curious things taken 
to Paris. Many of the first families removed to 
England. The only garrison here is a small regiment 
of Westphalians ; very fine men. Sent my card to 
Salcette, and left another for son Excellence* Madame 
de Decken. Mr. Menzzer procured me a ticket to 
the concert, and thither we went at y 2 p. 6. It is 
given and executed by the gentlemen of the town, 
amateurs and performers. No tickets sold. Admit- 
tance only to those invited. There were, I think, 
near thirty performers. The room appears to be 
about 120 feet by 40 or 50; well lighted by seven 
lustres pendant from the ceiling ; ornamented with 
eight or ten statues, large as life, nearly plain ; ceiling 
horizontal, and about sixteen feet high. The room 
was very full. At the intervals between the pieces or 
acts, they walk about and talk. Mr. de Spilcker, con- 
seiller de la cour de justice*, got introduced to me, I 



1 Her Excellency. 

a Councilor of the Court of Justice. 



314 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

don't know how ; a well-bred man of 30, speaking 
French and English. He ciceroned me about the 
room ; presented me to General St. Simon, command- 
ant de la ville\ who had served with Moreau 2 and 
spoke of him. To Madame de Decken, who imme- 
diately proposed some parties, dinners, suppers, &c, 
and when I announced my intention of leaving town 
to-morrow, absolutely forbade it. I yielded, and 
agreed to be at her command Monday evening. 
There were several handsome women, and many 
comely, with very fine complexions, hair, &c. The 
young ladies put up their hair in various simple and 
pretty ways, no caps or headdress ; married women, 
generally hats or caps. Of particulars I dare not 
attempt any. The music pleased me, particularly two 
songs. But Madame de Decken, who is scientific, 
and from whose judgment there is no appeal in any 
matter of taste, was not satisfied. She introduced me 
to her daughter-in-law, Madame la Baronne de Wan- 
genheim, handsome, graceful, ladylike woman ; tres 
belle taille 1 . Home at 9. No supper, having had tea 
before I went out. For dinner, took a small bowl of 
soup, finding myself heated by the journey. Learning 
that the diligence, a covered wagon, leaves this for 
Brunswick on Tuesday morning, resolved to go with 
it. The difference of expense is some indemnity for 
the delay. 

I Governor of the town. 

z Probably Jean Victor Moreau, (1761-1813), a French general. He commanded in Holland 
in 179; and was at the head of the army of the Rhine and the Moselle in 1796. He commanded 
in Italy in 1799 ana in 1800 was appointed to the command of the army of the Rhine and gained 
a decisive victory over the Austrians at Hohenlinden. Because of intrigues he was exiled in 
1804 and lived in the United States (near Trenton, N. J.), from 1805 to 1813, when he entered 
the Russian service. He was mortally wounded at the battle of Dresden, August 27, 1813, and 
died on the 2d of the following September. 

3 Very fine figure. 

3*S 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

17. Waked this morning, and found myself in 
a high fever, with a difficulty of respiration. Threw 
off the bedclothes, but no relief. A strong smell of 
burnt wool led me, at length, to suspect the cause of 
this strange malady. The door to my stove is in the 
entry or hall, so that the fire is made without coming 
into my room. The boy, in great kindness, had, at 
an early hour, heated the stove to that degree that a 
pair of woolen stockings (my fine Edinburgh knit 
stockings) and a pair of culottes 1 , which I had hung at 
least three inches from the stove, were so burned as to 
be ruined. Got up, opened the window, and found I 
could breathe well enough ; but I assure you I have 
been all day much the worse for the baking. At 10 
came in Mr. Menzzer, and at 1 1 I went to Mons. de 
Spilcker's. Having early received a card from the 
Governor, General La Salcette, called on him and sat 
a few minutes. A man of prepossessing physiognomy 
and pleasing manners. He engaged me to dine with 
him to-morrow. Just before I had engaged myself to 
de Spilcker, but he very kindly agreed to let me off". 
Mr. de Sp. then went with me to the Commander 
General St. Simon, who asked me to dine either to- 
day or to-morrow ; being engaged both days, was 

obliged to decline. To Mr. , first librarian, a 

very amiable old gentleman, who received me most 
kindly. To Madame de D.'s, who was out ; sent up 
my card to Mr. de D., who received us. A very 
dignified and courteous man. Actuellement premier 



1 Breeches. 



3l6 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

min. 1 Home at i. Found the card of Madame de 
Decken. At the moment of my return came in Mr. 
de Patje, president des 1 , who introduced him- 
self to me. Hearing of my arrival, and wishing the 
honour of my acquaintance, &c, &c, which is certainly 
civil and hospitable in a high degree. An intelligent 
and well-bred man. At 2 to dine with my friend 
Menzzer (who had invited me also yesterday), en fam- 
ille. T : besides ux. et rner.*, Mr. Palm, an interesting 

young man, bailie du 4 , great am. de E. Boll. 5 ; 

this at once made us acquainted ; also Madame 

, vraiment belle femme, whose mar. 6 is at 

Demar, or somewhere thereabouts. theatre 1 — 
" Hamlet "—Theatre Philosoph. 8 aV dir. 9 Sleight of 
hand. Ventriloq. I admire very much the Theatre 
au Palais 10 , where I was to see "Hamlet" in German, 
translated from Shakespeare. There is paterre 11 and 
five rows of boxes ; no gallery, as in Edinburgh. 

1 At this very time Prime Minister (Ministre). 

2 President of the . 

3 For uxor et mere. Wife and mother. 

4 For bailli du . Bailiff of the - 



5 Great friend {ami) of E. Bol., meaning Eric Bollman, a most interesting character, who 
was one of Burr's associates in the affair of Mexico and to whom there are frequent references 
in the Journal. Mr. Bollman was born in Hoya, Hanover, in 1769, and died in Jamaica, W. I., 
December 9, 1821. He studied medicine at Gbttingen, and practiced in Carlsruhe and Paris, 
where he settled at the beginning of the French Revolution. He accompanied Count Narbonne, 
who fled to England in 1792, and in London fell in with Lally-Tollendal, who induced him to 
go to Austria and endeavor to find out where General Lafayette was kept in confinement. He 
established himself as a physician in Vienna. Learning that Lafayette was a prisoner at 
Olmutz, he formed a plan to rescue him with the assistance of Francis Kinlock Huger, a young 
American. Communicating with the prisoner through the prison surgeon, the two fell upon his 
guards while Lafayette was taking exercise in a carriage, and succeeded in getting him away on 
ahorse; but he rode in the wrong direction and was recaptured. Dr. Bollman escaped to 
Prussia, but was handed over to the Austrian authorities, who kept him in prison for nearly a 
year, and then released him on condition that he should leave the country. He came to the 
United States and was well received ; but in 1S06 was implicated in Burr's conspiracy. He was 
Burr's agent in New Orleans. In 1814 he returned to Europe, and after another visit to the 
United States, took up his residence in London. Burr and Bollman corresponded regularly and 
were firm friends to the last. 

6 Truly a beautiful woman, whose husband (mari) is, etc. 

7 For theatre. 

8 Theatre Phihsophique. Philosophical Theatre. 

9 Probably for au dire. According to the saying, i. «., as they call it. 

10 The Palace Theatre. 

11 For parterre. On the Continent, the pit. 

317 



Private journal of Aaron Burr . 

There is a place assigned for Us courtisannes 1 . The 
curtain is of the ornament of the theatre the thing 
most worthy of notice. I will endeavor to get a 
description for you. It is about the size of that 
in Philadelphia ; but in every part of the house 
you hear distinctly. I saw nothing very remark- 
able in the performers. The style of acting a 
good deal like that in England. Staid only two 
acts, having engaged to go to the Theatre Philo- 
sophique (sleight of hand). Here met Madame de 
Decken and la belle K.; with the latter went home. 
The tricks and sleight of hand were very fatiguing to 
me, but I was indemnified by the ventriloquism. I 
am satisfied, however, that it is an acquirement, an art, 
and not, as many have supposed, a natural gift. 

1 8. Couche at i. Rose at 8. For fear of another 
baking, had forbid any fire to be made till I should be 
up and order it. At 10 came in Mr. Palm. He has 
exactly the features, the profile, and character of coun- 
tenance of John Swartwout 2 , about his height, not so 
lusty ; more blonde ; younger by ten years. Went 
at ii to see President Patje ; out. To Menzzer's ; 
out. Home. Found the card of le Conseiller Feder. 
Visit from Commandant le General St. Simon, very 
handsome young man. From Mr. Meyer, le ministre 

1 For les courtisanes. This word may here have two meanings; ladies of the court or cour- 
tesans. Burr probably refers to the latter. 

2 The Swartwout family was well known in New York. Abraham Swartwout was a Revo- 
lutionary soldier. His son Robert (1788-1838) became a Colonel of New York militia and 
after the war was a merchant at New York. He wounded Richard Riker, recorder of New 
York city, in a duel. Another son of Abraham, Samuel (1783-1856), accompanied Burr in his 
expedition in 1805, fought in the war of 1812, and afterward became a merchant in New York 
city. He was a captain of a city troop called the Iron Grays, celebrated by the poet Halleck, 
and was appointed collector of the port of New York by President Jackson. John Swartwout, 
another son, was a Member of Assembly in 1798-1799, 1800-1801, and 1820-1821, and United 
States Marshal at New York in 1801 and 1802, while Burr was Vice-President. 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

de police 1 . Walked out, and seeing the door of church 
open, went in. Surcharged with gilding and ornament. 
Two galleries. The panels between the first and 
second gallery, a suite of paintings ; forty or fifty. 
Scripture history. Nothing remarkable. 

Evening. No, indeed ! Looking at my watch, 
it is y 2 p. i, and, therefore, philosophically speaking, 
Tuesday morning. Mr. Palm promised to call on me, 
and I waited from \i till 4, but he came not, which I 
very greatly regret. Something has prevented, for I 
am sure he wished the interview. Took hack to go 
to dinner, and on the way called on Menzzer. Saw 

also Madame, but la belle not there. Thence 

to La Salcette's. There were three French ladies and 
about a dozen gentlemen, of whom only le President 
Patje appeared to me to be German. Le Commandant 
was there, and offered me letters, which I very gladly 
accepted, particularly one for Mayence. Now, if you 
have not forgotten your geography, that would tell 
you where I am going, which has hitherto been kept 
secret. At that moment came in Mr. Menzzer, to 
give me my ticket for the diligence, which he had 
procured (and now it occurs that he must have paid 
for it), and to take leave. It is too late to give you 
an account of the party at Madame Decken's, or to 
relate the affectionate letter and present of caravan tea 
received this afternoon from Mr. Liming, the father. 
Mr. Menzzer tells me that the diligence goes at 5, 
and that he will send a servant to call me at y 2 p. 4. 
So good night, or morning. 

1 The Minister of Police. 

3 l 9 



Private J o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

Bronswig 1 , December 19, 1809. I was up at x / 2 
p. 4, and we were off at 5. As I got into the dili- 
gence, saw by the light of the lamp a very pretty 
youth, apparently 17 or 18, whom but for the dress I 
should have supposed a girl. Le caval? and his lover 
are two itinerant musicians. They amused me much 
on the road. At parting, each of them slung a box 
on the back, and marched off chearful 3 as birds. We 
arrived at 1 1 this evening. We have been very indus- 
trious. Eighteen hours to make this eight miles. The 
country for about half way is the same sandy plain 
with which you have been so fatigued. Then less 
sandy, and, perhaps a little more fertile, but still a plain. 
Panet 4 is the first town in Westphalia ; but we had no 
visites of douanniers s nor of police-officers. It will be 
matter of curiosity to you to see a bill of the expenses 
of this mode of traveling, say for the eight miles : 

Bon-gro. 
Paid at Hanover, I don't know for what, to the zuagen-meister 6 , 

4 bon-gros 4 

Douceur 7 , now established by law, to each postillion, 4 bon-gros.; 

three postillions, 12 

To the other two wagen-meisters, 2 bon-gros. each, .... 4 

Fare of passenger, 7 bon-gros. German mile, 56 

Breakfast, coffee, bread and butter, 7 

Luncheon (bread, butter, cold beef, and beer), 4 

Pipe and tobacco, 1 

Bon-gros., 88 

Twenty-four bon-gros. to a dollar 8 ; 88 bon-gros. = 3 dollars 
and 16 bon-gros., or 3^ dollars. 

1 For Braunschweig, or Brunswick. 

2 For U cavalier. The cavalier or gentleman. 

3 So in the MS. 

4 For Peine. 

5 Inspections of custom-house officers (douaniers). 

6 Wagon-master; in more modern parlance, conductor. 

7 A gift, a bribe. 

8 He means a thaler, which was about three-fourths of an American dollar. 

320 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Saw now and then a little appearance of blue hills, 
still to the right. We seem to be riding parallel to 

them. Passed through the burnt village of . 

Among the ruins a fine, large, ancient, stone Gothic 
church. The poor people are very busy rebuilding. 
Walked over the town of Panet. Everything looks 
old and decaying. It seems to have been formerly 

fortified, at least . Lettre de L. Menard et Co., 

a Messrs. Freres Lobecke et Co., Brunswick 1 . De 
Professor Ebeling, a Herrn Etats rath von Zimmer- 
man 2 , Braunsweig. Sent the above with my card chez 
Brendecke ; also lettre de C. H. Donner, a Mons. 
Conseiller d'Etat de Zimmerman*, Bronsvic. 

Evening, i. e., yi p. 12. I wrote Zimmerman a 
note that I would call at 11, and went with it myself 
at 10. Sent in the letters and card. He, hearing 
that I was below, invited me up, and I sat y 2 hour. 
Mr. Zimmerman is the author of that statistical 
account of Europe which you have seen. He wrote 
it in England and in English. Author, also, of many 
things which you have not seen, but which you will 
see. He is about 72, cheerful, animated, and extremely 
frank ; of prepossessing countenance and manners, 
simple and courteous. Talking on American affairs, I 
happened to express a sentiment not usual. He 
turned to one of his books and read me the same idea. 



1 Letter from L. Menard & Co. to Lobecke Brothers & Co. (Co. for compagnie). 

2 [Letter] from Professor Ebeling to State-Councilor Von Zimmerman. This was Eber- 
hard August Wilhelm von Zimmerman (1743-1S15), a well known naturalist and philosopher of 
Germany. He was for some years a professor at the Carolinum, the great technical high-school 
of Brunswick. He published, among other things, " France and the Free States of North 
America " (179;), and" A Political Abstract of the Present State of Europe" (1788). The 
latter work was in French. 

} Letter of C. H. Donner to State-Councilor Von Zimmerman. Note the variation in 
spelling of Brunswick, the German name of which is Braunschweig. 

321 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

You know how such an incident advances an acquain- 
tance. Thence to the Hotel d' Angleterre 1 , where 
found Hosack and Robinson. We were very glad to 
meet. Hosack had got out of his trouble. Agreed 
to dine at my quarters. Strolled about the town. 
Went into St. Michael's and another church ; both 
Gothic. The latter has a splendid and beautiful altar- 
piece. Neither of them very large ; also the cloyster 2 
(nunnery), which always fills me with the most painful 
reflections. Returned to my quarters, and while we 
were at dinner two of the Lobeckes came in. (Note : 
The usual dining hour in this place is i o'clock.) 
One of them invited me to pass the evening and sup, 
and seeing my two friends, whom I mentioned as my 
countrymen and companions, he invited them also. At 
6 he sent his carriage for me, and we went. He 

resides with his father-in-law, Mr. , the Prefect 5 

of this district, being, of course, the first in point of 
rank. The house is a very spacious building, on the 
square by the cloyster, and is called La Prefecture. 
There were about twenty-five present, and nearly an 
equal number of either sex. Several pretty women. 

La Veuve , very handsome. Madame Lobecke, 

wife of the elder partner of the house (I believe uncle 
of the other), is the handsomest and youngest woman 
I ever saw having a son 23 years of age. On the first 
floor, which you call the second story, there were a 
suite of four large rooms, which we occupied. Then 

1 The English Hotel. 

2 So in the MS. 

} The title in French is Le Prifet. His house is La Prefecture. 

311 



Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr . 

a ballroom about sixty or seventy feet square, and 
twenty or thirty high, finished with taste and expense, 
which is the center of the house. Of course, the same 
rooms on the other side. The company were easy 
and social. Cards, conversation, cakes, lemonade, 
sangaree, &c. At n, hot supper. I played chess 
with le fils de Madame 1 , &c. Home at 12. 

21. Couche 1. Rose 7. At 10 came in Rob- 
inson ; soon after, Hosack, with le Baron de Schale, 
gouv. du Palais*. He proposed to go with me to the 
mint. As we were going out, met Monsieur Mercier, 
commissaire general de la haute -police a Bronsvig', to 
make a visit. He agreed to join and walk with us. 
The mint is not a very large establishment; about 
fifty men employed. They coin for their neighbours, 
also. Said that the mines of Hartz produce about 

of silver annually. Got sample of their small 

silver coins, new and shining, to add to Gamp's collec- 
tion. The Baron left us at the mint. Mercier 
walked about with me. I like him much. At 3 de 
Zimmerman came to take me to dine, and he had had 
the politeness to invite, also, Hosack and Robinson. 
It was at a restaurateur 's 4 that we dined. T: Profes- 
sors Emperius et de Florincourt, both speaking 
English ; very intelligent. Hosack and Robinson 
went off at 6 to go to the concert. I sat till 9. Much 
conversation on American and German affairs. 

22. Couche 2. Lev. 7. Sor. at 10 to Zimmer- 



1 Madame's son. 

Z For Gouverneur du Palais. Governor of the Palace. 

3 Commissary General of the High (the Correctional) Police at Brunswick. 

4 Keeper of a restaurant. 

3*3 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr. 

man's. To Mercier's, who engaged me to dine 
to-day. To Baron de Schale's where introduced to 
M'l/e la Bar. 1 , a pretty, genteel, amiable girl. To 
museum by appointment with Emperius, who has the 
charge of it. Mr. Denon had taken to Paris some of 
the most curious articles ; but much remains. Several 
heads, real antiques, Grecian and Roman. Collection 
from Herculaneum. Ditto from Egypt ; amulets. 
Called at the Prefect's ; being near i they were at 
dinner ; left card. Strolled an hour. At 3 to Zim- 
merman's. Home at 4. Took coach to go to dine 
with Mercier at 5. T: Mr. d'Escalonne, contW des 
postes z , and Dr. Valentine, (emigJ). Burgundy and 
champagne. Off at 8. Mr. M. would attend me. 
On the way muse. Tres bien. A At 9 came in Robin- 
son and sat till 11. Engaged to breakfast with 
Mercier. Costume of the paysans a very long white 
coat of canvas (sail duck), lined with red flannel ; 
waistcoat various colours, generally striped, red and 
green predominant ; large hat, cocked before and 
flapped behind. Women — The cap generally white, 
close to the head on the back, reaching not quite to 
the ears ; huge baskets, not like the pretty little 
Altona baskets. No public women, but great plenty 
who grant favors a bon marcheK After leaving the 
mint Mr. Mercier went with us to the lacquered ware 
manufactory of . The most famous in all 



I La Baronne. 

Z For ctmtroleur des pastes. Controller of the postal service. 

J For emigre. Emigrant. 

4 On the way, muse. Splendid. 

5 For a bon marche. Cheap. 



3 2 4 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Europe for that ware. He has upwards of twenty- 
painters employed. Am very sorry that I cannot stay 
here long enough to get your picture put on a small 
box, for here are artists of the first merit. 

Bronswig 1 , December 23, 1809. Couche x / 2 p. 1. 
Lev. 7. At y 2 p. 10 to Mercier's to breakfast a la 
fourcbette z ; fearing there would be only wine and meat, 
took coffee before I went. T : Dr. Valentine, Mr. 
d'Escalonne, controleur des postes, and a young man 
supposed commis 1 de Mercier. Home at 12, when 
Dr. Zimmerman came in and sat x / 2 hour. Story of 
Archentloiz, a gambler and swindler. His fraud on 
Baron Berkley of Zurich, for which the Baron, 
Archentloiz, et sa demirep 4 put in prison at Berlin. 
Robinson sat with us. Received note from Mercier 
that the gentlemen proposed for comp. de voyage s for 
me to Cassel had made a different arrangement. Thus 
I am condemned either to wait till Monday night for 
the diligence or to take Post Extra 6 . Saturday night 
— Since writing the above which was at about 2 P. 
M., I have been deliberating on the important point 
just mentioned and have at length resolved once more 
to submit to the horrors of post extra tout seul 1 as far, 
at least, as Gottingen. As usual, therefore, I have 
everything to do, everything to pack up, the most 
dire of ail labors, and twenty letters to write, having 
not yet begun. Have been employed as follows : 

1 For Braunschweig. Brunswick. 

2 A dejeuner a la fourchette is a meat breakfast, at which forks must be used. 

3 Clerk. 

4 And his woman of questionable chastity. (Demi-rep from demi and reputation. The 
English word demirep is similarly formed.) 

5 For cornpagnon de voyage. Traveling companion. 

6 A private conveyance at greater expense. 

7 Entirely alone. 

3*S 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

At 3 to Zimmerman's by appointment. (Note : Took 
no dinner, my breakfast a la fourchette sufficing); sat 
an hour with Zim. He is a most interesting man ; 
at the age of 71 he has the animation, the ardor, and 
the sensibility of youth, replete with science and a 
mind really vigorous and correct ; withal, frankness 
and cheerfulness which render him a very interesting 
social companion ; would have staid longer but had 
engaged to meet Robinson and Hosack at Y / 2 p. 4. 
R. and H. came and with them Zimmerman fib 1 . 
They all sat more than an hour and till I wished them 
gone, as I expected Mercier at 6, but the young 
Zimmerman entertained us very much with anecdotes 
of various personages. The Duke of Brunswick ; 
Captain Helvig, son of the Professor of this place ; 
of the late Dr. Zimmerman, author of "Solitude 1 " &c. 
He died insane at Hanover ; his son is now mad ; 
my friend here is no relation, or a very distant. At 6 
came in Mercier ; he is native of the island of Mar- 
tinique ; educated in Philadelphia ; has served eleven 
years in the French armies ; is here commiss. gen. de la 
haute police 1 ; does not look more than 30, has a wife, 
francoise, alitee 4 y and supposed incurable. While we 
were talking, Zimmerman le pere s came in to bring me 
letter for a friend of his in Weimar (you will find out 
presently all where I am going, which I did not 
intend); these two men, though living in the same 
town, had never before met. Zimmerman lives 



1 The younger Zimmerman. 

2 Same meaning as in English. 

3 For commissaire general, etc. 

4 A French lady ( Fran^aise). Bedridden ialit'ee). 

5 The elder Zimmerman. 



326 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

retired, continually writing. He went off and left 
Mercier, who sat till 9. Gave me two letters to his 
friends at Cassel. There is rumor that the King will 
not be there till the 30th, though he had appointed 
the 25th. The incident of the breakfaster, who called 
while Mercier was here. 

Gottingen, December 25, 1809, (Monday). I 
was too busy yesterday to write you a line and we 
must therefore go back to Sunday morning. I rose 
at 7. At y 2 P- 9 went to Mercier to prevent his 
calling on me. He had already got out and gone to 
my lodgings. Fortunately we met in the street and 
he came home with me. Sor. again to Baron de 
Schale ; out, but my servant and pilot who spoke 
only German, hearing me also ask for M'lle la Baronne, 
brought her pell-mell down stairs into the court in 
dishabille 1 and to see, she knew not whom nor for 
what. Went up and sat % hour with M'lle, a very 
pleasing, pretty, amiable personne 1 . Thence to 
Lobecke's. He had gone that day to Cassel, but saw 
the beau pere 1 le prefect*. Thence to Zimmerman's, 
where Y / 2 hour ; he gave me a letter for the celebrated 

astronomer, Mr. . Home and met going in 

to see me Mr. d'Escalonne, V inspect eur des postes s . 
He had got me a carriage, that of Monsieur Otto, 
Vinspecteur General des Postes 6 de Westphalia, and 
would take me with him to see Mr. O. Went and 



1 A word anglicized from the French deshabille, in undress. 

2 Person. 

3 For beau-fire. Father-in-law. 

4 If Burr meant this for a French word he should have spelled it prifet. 

$ D'Escalonne is called both contrileur (controller) and insfecteur (inspector). 

6 Inspector General of the mails, i. e., Postmaster-General. 



327 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

found him and his wife, an English woman, a very 
sprightly, charming Yorkshire girl. They begged me 
to take breakfast with them, a la fourchette, at y 2 P- 
i ; agreed. Mercier came in and walked home with 
me. Talked of X matters and thinks the moment 
favorable. Home. Wrote Menard & Prathes, the 
booksellers at Hamburg ; also a note to Robinson to 
tell him to call at 3. To breakfast at the Hotel Roi 
de Prusse 1 (Natalis). Sat down at 2. Three courses 
of meat, variety of wines and coffee. It was to me 
exceedingly like dinner, having breakfasted at 8. T : 
d'Escalonne, Mercier, and Mr. O. Sat till 4, all very 
gay ; all talking English except Escalonne. A good 
deal of X again. All want a hand. Monsieur O. 
gave me a circular letter to all the postmasters on the 
road ; something to expedite me ; being in German, 
I could not read it, but it made the postmasters amaz- 
ingly active and civil ; every one after reading it made 
me a most profound bow. Got home a little past 4. 
On the way met M'lle la Baronne and walked with her. 
Found Hosack and Robinson at my quarters and they 
helped me pack up. The horses came before I was 
ready, punctually at 5 as I had ordered, with the 
handsome carriage of Mons. O. Off at 6 and arrived 
here about noon this 25th of December, being Christ- 
mas day. The first three miles flat as before ; then 
more and more hilly, better settled and cultivated. 
Nothing very remarkable except about one mile back 
saw on a hill the ruins of a romantic castle on the 
summit of a hill on my left ; find on inquiring of 

I The King of Prussia Hotel. 

328 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Professor that it is one of those enchanted 

castles where was held in durance a lady who was 

finally delivered by the valiant knight, R . I 

regret exceedingly for your sake that I did not go to 
see it ; you do so love enchanted castles ! One of the 
towers is almost entire and is very lofty. The distance 
from Braunschweig (all these different spellings are 
from authority) to this place is about fifty English 
miles. The road very bad, though the greater part 
of the way chausse 1 (turnpike). Immediately on my 
arrival sent my two letters to the Professors Heeren 2 
and Gaus with my card. Monsieur H. came in almost 
immediately and found me dressing ; agreed to call in 
an hour, which he did. Walked to Professor Gaus, 
V astronome tres celebre ; un juenhomme peut-etre 25 to 
32'. Will relate to you an anecdote of his history 
very honorable to him and to Zimmerman, who dis- 
covered him. To the Observatory. The largest 
telescope is about ten feet long and one diameter. 
The observatory is one of the castles (rotundas) of the 
old walls ; thence to the library, 200,000 volumes. 
Took tea with Professor Heeren. Home at 6. 
Took tea again and have ordered my horses for 4 
to-morrow morning. Snowed all yesterday and till 
near noon to-day ; not fast ; now chiefly melted ; 
only evidence, the cold and the mud ; was very chilly 



1 For chaussee. Same in meaning as causeway, with which it is connected philologically. 

2 Arnold Hermann Louis Heeren (1760-1S42). German historian and scholar, who lectured 
on philosophy at Gbttingen. 

3 The very famous astronomer ; a young man (jcune homme) perhaps 2; to 32. Karl Fried- 
rich Gausz (1777-1855) was director of the Gbttingen Observatory from 1807 to his death. He 
published numerous works well known to mathematicians and astronomers all over the world. 
He was also one of the pioneers in the study of magnetism and electricity, and one of the dis- 
coverers of the electric telegraph. 

329 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

last night, so resolve to take a sleep to-night. Five 
hundred students here. 

Cassel, December 26, 1809. Now capital of the 
kingdom of Westphalia. Notwithstanding my resolu- 
tions, did not get to bed till 1 1 last night. At 4 was 
waked, but so imperfectly that I turned over and slept 
till 5. It had been snowing all night and there are 
three or four inches of snow on the ground, which 
makes the traveling even more tedious than usual. 
Snowed hard, always wind ahead on land. Was glad 
to keep myself close ; scarcely looked out till we got 
to the end of our first stage, three miles (sixteen 
English). Miinden is at the confluence of the Werts 1 
and the Fulda, which together form the Weser. As 
you approach Miinden, the north banks of the Weser 
become very high. I should suppose 300 feet, and 
very steep. A road for some hundred yards is cut in 
the side of the mountain. To your right a ridge and 
a fine view of the river and town, which has the 

appearance of great antiquity and may have 

inhabitants. Cross the Werts on a very solid stone 
bridge. Stopped at the post-house, where were several 
pretty children and two pretty and genteel-looking 
girls. The youngest about 16, Louisa, tall, graceful, 
had just received cudof, a very handsome guitarre*, but 
I could not persuade [her] to give me a tune. Got 
breakfast and off at 1 2, having been detained an hour 
to get my carriage mended. On leaving Miinden you 
have the Fulda on your right and a like mountain on 



1 For Werra. 

2 For cadeau. Present. 
J For guitare. Guitar. 



33° 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

the left, into which a road is cut as before. This hill 
is cut into walks and laid out into whimsical gardens 
to the very top, within y 2 English mile or more of 
the town. There you leave the river and ascend by a 
gentle acclivity. It appeared to me to be an English 
mile from the bottom to the top of the hill. Much 
such an one as that you rise in coming from Fishkill 
to Peekskill. Woods on each side till you approach 
the summit, which is a plain whereon is a village and 
church. After rising and descending several consid- 
erable hills, you open at once on an extensive valley 
surrounded by mountains, the Fulda winding through 
the valley, and in the center of it Cassel, of which you 
have a perfect bird's-eye view, being, I should sup- 
pose, 200 feet above it. From the first view of Cassel 
till you reach it may be about two English miles, 
following the road. The approaches are extremely 
picturesque. Cross the Fulda on a very handsome 
stone bridge. At 3 I was put down at the Hotel de 
Westphalie 1 where I have an indifferent room and a 
prospect of bad attendance. Rising that long hill we 
overtook a very old man evidently exhausted by the 
storm and the fatigue, with a younger one (about 30) 
by his side, aiding him. The young man addressed 
himself to the postillion to ask a place for the patri- 
arch. The postillion referred him to me. The young 
man turned to me, made me a speech with an accent 
the most pathetic and a countenance full of sweetness 
and solicitude. The pantomime was eloquent, for I 
understood not a word, though every syllable was 

I The Westphalia Hotel. 

331 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

perfectly intelligible. The old man cast a pensive 
look of humble expectation. I did not wait to hear 
out the speech. The drama spoke most feelingly. 
We all assisted the old man to get in and we put him 
down at the door of a decent house in the village. 
Three comely young women ran out in all the snow 
and seemed to strive for the first embrace. An old 
woman at the window partook of the joy of his return. 
He told them that he was indebted to me and I had 
an hundred curtsies and bedanke mictis 1 , and might, 
if I had [got] out, have had as many kisses. I never 
saw the scene half as well acted on any stage. That 
man, thought I, has lived happy and will die happy. 
While dressing, sent out my letters (with cards) to the 
following : From Mercier to : Le Comte de Fursten- 
stein (formerly Camus 2 , who was with the King 
(Jerome), in United States), now prem. min. d'etat*; a 
Mons. de Bercagny, prefet de police*; a Mon. Alleye, 
employe dans le depart, d'af. EtrangK From General 
St. Simon at Hanover : To le Col. Wolff, Chev. &c, 
Cotnt le chev. leg. du Garde Royale 6 . From Professor 
Zimmerman (or his son ne scais lequel 1 ^^ to le Baron 

de Nordenflycht, &c, &c. From , charge des 

affaires de S. M. le R. de Suede a Han. 8 to le Comte de 
Levenhjelm, with three lines of titles. Enough surely 

1 The Germans say Ich bedanke mich. I thank you. 

2 The word camus is a French word meaning flat-nosed. It may have been a sobriquet of 
Count Fiirstenstein. , 

J For Premier Ministre a" Etat. Prime minister. 

4 Police prefect. , 

5 For employe dans le Departement des Affaires Etrangeres. Employed in the Foreign 
OfHce. 

6 For Chevalier, etc. Commandant le Chevalier de la Legion de la Garde Royale. Knight 
&c. Commanding Knight of the Legion of the Royal Guard. 

7 For ne sais lequel. I do not know which. 

8 For Charge d'affaires de Sa Majeste le Roi de Suede a Hanovre. Charge' d'affaires of His 
Majesty the King of Sweden at Hanover. 

33 n - 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

for the four days I have allotted to this place. There 
was no theatre open at Bronsvig. Here is both a 
French and a German, there being an opera at the 
French to-night. I am going to take a seat incog, in 
the "Paterre Noble' 1 . The theatre is small but very 
beautiful. The King's boxes, crimson and gold ; gilt 
lattices. The house lighted by a lustre suspended 
from the middle of the ceiling containing forty argand 
lamps. The auditors may see each other very dis- 
tinctly. There was not a performer remarkable for 
beauty or voice or diction. M'lle Deletre, much in 
the style of Mrs. Johnson, but more animated, the 
best. Got near a sensible, convenable 1 man. Upon 
the whole was much amused and got the worth of my 
1 6 bon-gros. — exactly half a dollar, which is the 
highest price for any seat in the house. The bill is 
enclosed to save me the trouble of answering a dozen 
questions. The orchestra good, about thirty perform- 
ers. The whole house (four rows of boxes) may be 
able to contain 600 or 800. Did not see a single 
striking face, (though there might have been fifty 
which I did not see). The side boxes not brilliant. 
The King not arrived. The convocation of the states 
postponed till the 10th of January. Won't stay here, 
that's pos. Zimmerman fond of cats. 

27. Couche 1. Rose 8. Off before breakfast to 
the stage house (post-house) to see about the ways 
and means of getting off, whither I have not told you. 
Well, now I'll tell you. To Gotha and Weimar. 

I For Parterre des Nobles. The nobles' pit. 
z Agreeable. 

333 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

And for what ? Aye, that you'll know when I get 
there ! A diligence goes at i P. M. Friday, the 29th, 
the day after to-morrow. In that I go. No more 
extra post. After breakfast called on Mr. Mylart with 

my letter of credit for the enormous sum of . 

No matter ! It shall carry me to Paris happy. Then 
took coach and went to see the celebrated Palace of 

, now called Napoleon Hohe. 1 Went through 

the buildings. The main building all new furnished 
from Paris ; the right wing with the furniture of the 
late Prince. The old Palace, higher up the mountain, 
mod. 2 ruins, with ancient arms and furniture of the 
Middle Ages. Had not time to go to see Hercules 
on the top of the mountain 3 , nor the immense oran- 
gerie 4 . Two statues and two pictures of the King, not 
one of the Queen. The maitre, keeper, or prem.- 
valet s who shows the house, was in the same capacity 
to the expelled Prince. Much like a gentleman. 
Amused me greatly. The bedrooms ; the Cyprian 
alcove lined with mirrors ; not, however, for her 
Majesty to see her royal face. Home at 3. Paid 1 
dollars to one and 1 dollar to another (shewer) 6 at the 
two Palaces. Instead of dinner walked out to see the 
town. It is really unique in many particulars. I will 
endeavor to buy some tableau' ', for I am bad at 
description, nor is it possible to afford the time. 



1 Height. (It is in more modern times known as Wilhelmshbhe.) 

2 Modern >. 

I An immense statue of Hercules rises from the castle on the height. 

4 Orangery. 

5 The master, keeper or chief valet (premier valet). 

6 The form shewer is archaic for shower, one who shows. 

7 A picture or picturesque representation. (Should be the plural, tableaux.) 



334 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Bought bru. x Home at 5 and had tea. Gave up the 
opera that I might write to you and make notes. 
Only think, not one of my cards returned, nor any 
message ! A gentleman in regimentals (a sub. 2 ) has 
called and inquired for me, but left neither message nor 
card ! Mon'r said : " Je suis trop * * * * dav. vu 
un om. lab."* Streets badly lighted. At Bronswig 
not at all. No trottoir 4 anywhere. Dit 19,000 habit. s 
in Cassel. Are building a new penitentiary and work- 
house here. What pity they know nothing of 
Panopticon 6 ! Snowing all day and about six inches 
on the ground. These mountains are parts of the 
Hartz, of which Bruken or Broken 7 , famed in legend, 
is the highest, about the height of our Alleghanies. 
The Giant's Mountain, another of Hartz. 

28. Couche 12. Rose y 2 p. 7. Mr. de Mar- 
tens 8 , celebrated as the author of a book on the law of 
nations, " Relations Exterieures" 9 , being the only man 
in this place whom I had any real wish to see, sent 
him my card with a message that I should call on him 
at any hour he would be at leisure in the forenoon. 
Replied that he would be happy to see me from 1 1 to 



1 Burr seems to be still using the Swedish word for bread, but it should be spelled br'6d. 
l For subaltern >. 

5 Possibly for " Je suis trop * * * * A' avoir vu un homme laborieux." " I am too 
[happy >] to have seen a laborious man." 

4 Sidewalk. 

5 For habitants. Residents. Said [to have] 19,000 residents. 

6 Referring again to Bentham's work, which discusses the question of what to do with con- 
victs, how to make them useful. 

7 For Brocken. 

8 Probably Georg Friedrich von Martens, born at Hamburg in 1756, died at Frankfort-on- 
the-Main, iSzi ; a German publicist and diplomatist ; he became professor of law at Gb'ttin- 
gen in 1784. 

9 This was a work in three volumes published at Berlin in 1801. Its full title was : " Cours 
Diplomatique ou Tableau des Relations Exterieures des Puissances de V Europe " " The Course 
of Diplomacy or a Picture of the External Relations of the Powers of Europe." 



33S 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

12. Sor. 10 to Mylart's about money. Reappointed 
to call on me at 2. To several booksellers to get 
map and tableau of Cassel. Bought you a beautiful 
map of the Napoleon Hohe and its environs, for 
which paid the enormous price of 1^ dollars. The 
bookstores here are humble things. Thence to the 
post-house again to be sure of the diligence. The 
man put me quite in a fever by telling me that it had 
just gone ! Only think of the horrid alternative of 
waiting here a week or taking post extra for fifteen 
German miles ! It put me quite out of breath. 
Fortunately the man was mistaken. The diligence 
goes at 3 P. M. to-morrow. At 12 to Mr. de 
Martens. A tall, handsome man about 42. Dark 
hair and eyes ; very sprightly in his manner. 
Received me with very great politeness and thanked 
me over and over again. Expressed great regret at 
my determination to leave town to-morrow. Home 
at 1. Read Moniteur de JVestphalie 1 till 2. Diner a tab 
d'hote 1 . Of six at table not one who could speak 
French. A very young professor from Koningsburg* 
was the only one whose countenance strongly invited 
acquaintance. At 3 (Mylart not coming) sent again 
to the post-house and actually paid for a seat in the 
diligence so that you will no longer dare to doubt 
whether I go to-morrow. To convince you, huzzy, 
here is the ticket ! On my way home with my High 
Dutch valet for pilot and counsel, muse, tres bo 4 ; 1 x / 2 

1 The Westphalia " Monitor." 

2 For diner a [la] table d'hote. 
i For Konigsberg. 

4 For Muse. Tres bonne. Muse, very good. 

33^ 



Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr . 

marks. Oh, I forgot to tell my dear little Gampy 1 ; 
he would have jumped out of his skin to see it ; such 
a family and such music, bnt I must give him the par- 
ticulars. The principal personages were : i, a jackass; 
2, two monkeys dressed in regimentals, one in green, 
the other in scarlet; 3, an enormous bear; 4, 
drummer and bagpiper. But they did dance in 
such a style, and the monkeys played so many 
tricks to the poor bear and Herr 2 Bear did so 
growl and Gamp did so laugh, but I'll tell him 
all about it next time. Yesterday I must have been 
possessed by the devil. A pretty little girl about 
1 5 years old came into my room with a little 
guitarre in her hand and muttering a few words in 
German began to sing and play. Could you imagine 
anything more calculated to fascinate me ? I drove 
her rudely out ! To be sure, I did give her a gooden- 
groshen*, which was probably much more than she 
expected ; but I was unkind. One minute after, I 
was sorry and sent for her, but she was not to be 
found ; and I have been all day looking out for her 
in vain. There are troops of these singers and players 
of all ages and sexes. Several of them have amused 
me very much. One in particular, a girl of about 11, 
has a very fine voice which she accompanies with her 
violin in a charming style. Have a great mind to 
bring her out to United States for you. She will 
teach Gam'y German and would presently serve him 

1 Meaning his grandson. Notice the extraordinary manner in which Burr throws in a refer- 
ence to one of his amorous escapades between a remark to his daughter and one to his grandson ! 

2 Mr. Bear. 

3 For GH/en-groschen. Good groschen. 

337 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

other purposes. She is quite decently dressed but, as 
all the girls of the lower order are here, bareheaded ; 
snowing all the while and very cold, yet playing out 
doors and of course without a glove. She must be as 
tough as a little white bear. I will bring her out for 
little Gamp. I am to-day more civil to all these little 
creatures to atone for the barbarity of yesterday. How 
truly English that was ! Not a visit from any one of 
my six addressees. Tant mieux. I have seen de M. 
and all I wish to see, and shall get off the sooner and 
henceforth you will see fewer delays. Ecoutez 1 . At 
Gottingen Professor Heeren told me two very impor- 
tant articles of news. First, the divorce of Emperor 
and Empress, the manner of it is noble and worthy of 
him ; second, the Emperor's assent to the independ- 
ence of Mexico and the other Spanish colonies ! Now, 
why the devil didn't he tell me of this two years ago ? 
Bischausen (four miles west from Cassel), Decem- 
ber 30, 1809. Saturday. Sat up till 2 on Thursday 
night pretending to write and get ready for setting off 
on Friday. Rose at 8. At 9 sent to Myart, who 
came over with 23 Fred, d'ors 2 which I had agreed to 
take. Deus nobis hac otia fecit 1 . At 1 1 received card 
of Mons. Alleye, who sent word that he had not sooner 
been able to find me, as my card was Brendecke's, 
Bronsvig, instead of my Cassel address. At 12 came 
in de Martens and sat x / 2 hour. He offered many 
allurements to change my determination of leaving 

1 Listen. 

2 A Prussian Friedrich d'or was a gold coin worth about $4. 

3 God made this leisure for us. (Quoted from Vergil's first Eclogue.) 

338 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

town. The most powerful, which, indeed, made me 
hesitate, was his conversation. He resembles Gallatin 
with more of fashion and animation, and something 
younger. Happening to mention the resemblance, it 
came out that his belle-mere 1 was born Gallatin and 
genevoise. Mr. de M. is Hambourgeois by birth. At 
2 came in Bercagny, la com. gen I de police. I was in 
my traveling costume, my trunks packed and ready. 
He apologized over and over again for the delay of 
his visit (business was the burthen of it), asked me to 
dine, proposed various parties. It was too late, I had 
really determined to go. Mr. Bercagny is a very gay, 
cheerful man of about 40 ; looks too good-tempered 
for his office. He sat till I wished him gone and gave 
signs of impatience, for I feared to lose my passage in 
the diligence. At 3 punctually went to the stage office 
with my baggage. There were no signs of going. It 
was blowing and snowing violently. After pacing the 
court yard about twenty minutes I fortunately found 
the conducteur 1 and very fortunately he could speak 
French. Told me the diligence would go a little after 
5 and begged me to be very punctual. I was punc- 
tual ; then it would certainly go at 6. By way of 
consolation, went to my quarters and took dinner. 
Was in the field again at 6 and determined not to 
quit it. At 7 we set off. The storm had risen to a 
tempest. Our road lay right through the mountains, 
something like those between Croton and Peekskill. 



1 Mother-in-law. 

2 A Hamburger. 
J Conductor. 



339 



Private J o urn a I of Aaron Burr. 

The snow had become deep and in places excessively 
drifted. We were six in the wagon. I had the worst 
place, which is everywhere the lot of the stranger 
except in Scotland and Sweden. The storm in our 
face ; the wagon badly covered. We were all covered 
with snow. Every half hour we got fast in some 
snowdrift ; were once obliged to send back a postillion 
an English mile for additional horses to drag us up a 
mountain, and at another time to send as far forward 
to get men and tools to dig us out of the snow and 
open a path. These operations took up about two 
hours each between 12 and 5 in the night. We 
arrived here at 1 P. M. this day, having been nine- 
teen hours indefatigably employed in getting over four 
miles, about nineteen English ! And what do you do 
here and why don't you go on ? Infandum regina 
jukes. 1 , but I will tell you. The diligence goes no 
further on my route till 6 A. M. to-morrow. Having 
resolved against post extra, here I wait with all imagi- 
nable patience in a humble inn where I am received 
with extreme good humor and filth, and having dined 
on potatoes and drank beer and, since, some execrable 
tea, which was unnecessary, I am now at 10 about to 
undergo the operation of stewing and freezing, as 
heretofore described, there being no sort of covering 
except the down bed. I suffered a good deal with the 
cold last night. My companions appeared quite at 
ease. They were in constant good humor, sang a 
great deal, two of them having very fine voices. 

1 Latin. Queen, thou dost order an unspeakable thing. (Quoted from Vergil's "/Eneid," 
II. 3.) 

340 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Among them all during the whole nineteen hours I 
did not hear a single tone or expression of ill humor 
or impatience. 

31. Up at 6 and ready to move, so soon, at 
least, as I shall have swallowed my coffee which is on 
the stove by my side. Take notice, Madame, that I 
never again get under one of these infernal down beds. 
It has been a night of extreme fatigue and I had great 



Gotha, December 31, 1809. At the moment of 
writing the last line above the wagon-meister 2 ' came a 
third time to inform me that the diligence was waiting, 
and added that the passengers, I had before under- 
stood there were none, were growing impatient. 
Disposed of my coffee, paid my bill, 32 gooden 
groshen, and packed up my loose articles with all 
possible dispatch, and at Y / 2 p. 7 we were under weigh. 
You must divine how that sentence would have been 
concluded. The passengers were three paysans going 
to Eisenach. They strove to amuse me by details 
regarding the country through which we were passing 
and the incidents of modern times. If my pipe were 
out, would run through the snow 100 yards to fetch 
me fire, &c. We had six horses to drag us up the 
mountain. These mountains are no more than great 
hills. At every ^ mile a village. The soil is better 
here than in the plains of Hanover. At three miles 
we changed horses and postillion. Our new postillion 
was an angel, quite inspired. We went on fast more 



1 The sentence is unfinished. 

2 For Wagenmeiiter. Conductor. 



341 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

than half the way and once he actually galloped for 
near 200 yards. At 4 we were at Eisenach, having 
made five miles in 8 x / 2 hours, a most wonderful transit 
for this region. Eisenach is in a valley of three or 
four leagues circumference and several hundred feet 
below the surrounding mountains, one of which conceals 
it from your view till you enter the suburbs. May 
have about 10,000 inhabitants. The plain, however, 
is in view, and the salt-works for y 2 hour before, and 
ornamented with rows of trees. Eisenach was (is) a 
walled town. The walls of stone, now in decay. On 
the right as you enter, a castle about 100 feet above 
the town, walled in and capable of defence (before 
cannon invented). It is a neat town ; has a theatre 
open this very night, formerly the residence of the 

no, that must be mistake. These little walled 

towns are a great nuisance to travelers ; searches and 
questions. The theatre would not have detained me, 
but I did wish to examine the noble ruins of a castle 
on the very summit of the mountain immediately 
beyond (on this side) the town. It is exactly the 
scene of a fairy tale. Here, no doubt, many a fair 
damsel has been confined by diabolical enchantments 
and delivered by valiant Christian knights. But a 
matter nearer home engages my attention. The post- 
master, who speaks French, informed me that the 
diligence must wait till that from Frankfort arrived, 
which was not expected till midnight ; might be after. 

Having been two nights without rest (Happy 

New Year! The clock strikes 12 ; a band of music 



342 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

is playing near my window, guns firing, as with us, 
&c.) — without rest and undergoing great fatigues, I 
determined to take post horses to Gotha. Went to a 
tavern, took tea, and at 5 was in my calash. The 
postillion was a slow-motioned rascal who was $}4 
hours bringing me to this place. My first business 
was to go personally to the diligence office and secure 
a place for the morning. The expense of post extra 
is beyond all bearing. Before Eisenach we enter the 
kingdom of Saxony (Ch's Loss' kingdom) 1 . (Note the 

bridges over the at Eisenach.) And here I 

am in a great auberge 1 where no creature speaks a word 
of French or English. Have had a supper brought 
which I did not want and did not order and twenty 
other mesintelligences 1 which I will tell you another 
time ; but expecting to be called at y 2 p. 5, must bid 
you good-night. Good-morning! this 1st of January, 
1 8 10. It has been snowing all day and is now raining 
very hard. Having a bed with couverture and a chauf 
lit*, promise myself a few hours' comfort. (Note : the 
infernal douaniers and commissaires de police ! 5 I wish 
Mercier 6 were police officer over the whole world. 
For your amusement I enclose a copy of the paper I 
have signed. It will puzzle their Highnesses.) 

Gotha, January 1, 18 10, 7 A. M. Was really 
up at 6 and have breakfasted. Not the better for the 



1 Who was Charles L06S ? Further on, under date of February 4, 1810, Burr mentions him 
again. 

2 Inn. 

3 For mesintelligences. Misunderstandings. 

4 With quilt and bed-warmer {chauffe-lit). 

5 The infernal custom-house officers and police commissaries. 

6 It will be remembered that Mercier was the highest police official of Brunswick, 
Germany. 



343 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

wine. Raining very hard. How sorry I feel for the 
lower orders of people when it rains on a holiday ! 
They have so few enjoyments, in Europe especially, 
nowhere so few as in England. It is now said that 
the diligence will not go till 9. At Eisenach saw the 
first sleighs I have seen since leaving America. They 
were pretty little things ; fine horses ornamented with 
cords and tassels and bells ; gentlemen and ladies. 
Saw a great number of pretty faces the hour I was 
there among the servants and bourgeoise 1 disfigured by 
a strange head-dress and all false hips, even girls of 5 
years old. At the tavern I caught one to examine 
those hips ; she screamed as if I was going to eat her, 
to the great amusement of twenty spectators. The 
fountains at Eisenach and Gotha ; all the bells ringing 
since 7 o'clock. (Forgot Kreutzberg, a little town in 
a plain (a hollow) in the midst of the mountains, 
where are extensive salt-works ; a pretty scene as you 
descend the mountains ; it is three miles west (the 
other side) of Eisenach.) 9 A. M. The Frankfort 
stage (in which I am to go to Weimar) not yet arrived. 
Determined to wait for it. Will go out in all the rain 
to see if there be anything to amuse you. There are 
plenty, I know, but not visible at this hour ; besides 
I dare not be long absent. Just as I had finished the 
last sheet a message from a lady now somewhere in 
this great house that she was going alone in a carriage 
to Weimar, and a proposition that I should take a 
seat with her, to go immediately. V oluntier s x ^ 



1 For bourgeoises. Middle-class women. 

2 For vohntiers. Willingly. 



344 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Madame! I understood this to be an overture of 
economy and not of gallantry. She may be deformed 
and 90 for aught I have learnt. From Weimar you 
shall know the result, Weimar, Weimar, for which I 
have gone seventy miles out of my way, have 
expended so much time and money ! and all this for 
thee, lovely d'lm. 1 I shall at least have the satisfac- 
tion of having performed my engagement ; perhaps 
the only reward, but how little did I know how much 
I should regret the time. Something I told you a few 
days past has inspired this impatience ; a little, leetle 
ray of light. Adieu ; 6 miles to Weimar, we shall 
arrive about midnight. 

4 P. M. toujours 7, Gotha. The Frankfort stage 
not arrived ! The postmeister 1 now says that it is 
probable the rain and melting of the snow may have 
so swelled the rivers as to render them impassable 
(Dumfries) 4 and that of course there can be no conjec- 
ture about the arrival. Very pleasant, Madame, to be 
a whole day in a place where there is no being 
(* * * *) 5 who can understand a sentence I say nor 
be understood by me. This is not the worst. I 
would amuse myself very well, could go {have gone) to 
church or to see some of the fine things, or, as at 
Gliickstadt, could make acquaintances, but my great 
apprehension of losing the damned diligence keeps me 

1 For d'Imhoff. In Davis's abridged reprint the last words of this sentence are " and all 
this for the lovely D'Or." This means nothing. The reference is doubtless to Lady Imhoff, 
whose acquaintance Burr made in Sweden. She is mentioned under date of September 9, 1809, 
as Fruken Imhoff. As the reader proceeds it will become plain that Burr has come to Weimar 
to meet a certain aristocratic lady of whom Lady Imhoff had spoken. 

2 Gotha still. 
J Postmaster. 

4 Dumfries is a city of Scotland in a county of the same name. Does Burr mention it here 
because he had a similar experience there with impassable rivers ! 

5 An undecipherable word. 

345 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

from being abroad more than y 2 hour at a time. 
Nevertheless I have been all day roving ; have made 
some acquaintances, some discoveries about those false 
hips, which, to be sure, cost me \ x / 2 dollars. Several 
little adventures ; know the town. Every lady you 
look at sitting in her window nods to you. I drew 
strange conclusions at first ; but how dangerous are 
rash inferences ! Have seen only one beautiful 
woman. Lo, the diligence arrives, I saw it from my 
window ! " But what has become of the lady ? ' Too 
long a story to tell and worth nothing when told. 
Have been over to see the diligence. It goes at 7. 
The price to Weimar is 1 ecus 1 , about $1.75 of your 
money. There are two passengers, of whom one 
speaks French. A very forbidding phiz, but not 
worse than my own. The weather mild. 

Weimar, a la fir?, Weimar, Tuesday evening, 
January 2, 18 10. At 6 last evening at Gotha went to 
the stage-house. These post-houses are not always 
taverns, but there is always a room with fire for the 
passengers. Here sat with my two companions till 8. 
I was amused by the bourgeoises who were continually 
coming in to visit one belonging to the house. A 
vigorous, active, athletic race ; reminded one of those 
German women spoken of by Tacitus and Caesar. 
Their laugh might have been heard a mile. At 8 we 
embarked and moved. (But Gamp is tired and must 
go to bed. He will try to devote a few moments to 
you to-morrow.) 



1 An ecu is commonly called a crown. 

2 Finally. 



346 



Private journal of Aaron Burr . 

3. Couche 11. Rose 7. Had a fine sleep. 
Have breakfasted and am refreshed. Now to go back 
to the waggoning 1 at Gotha. Going in and out of 
these towns you pay a toll for passing the gate, l 1 /^ 
gro. It was warm. The wagon well cushioned and 
our very slow motion relieved us from the jolting, 
though we were without springs. At the end of a 
mile the postillion stopt 1 at a tavern to take snaps' 1 and 
I went in, as I always do, to see &c. The hostess is 
the picture of Megara'. She asked me if I would 
have brandy. No. Beer ? No. She then turned 
to her husband and the postillion, the only auditors, 
and abused me with a profusion of curses. A fellow 
who would come in and warm himself by her fire and 
drink nothing ! The postillion informed her that I 
was a Frenchman who understood not a word of Ger- 
man and I affected to understand nothing. At going 
out I very civilly bid her good-night. She threw back 
her head with the most malignant expression and 
demanded 1 groschen for having warmed myself by 
her fire, which I paid her and again bid her good-night. 
The wagon being closed, I saw nothing. Arrived at 
Erfurth 4 at 2 in the morning. Took a servant to show 
me the houses where the Emperors Napoleon and 
Alexander lodged while forming the treaty in 1806. 
Got coffee after an hour's delay and without undressing 
lay down to sleep till called to continue our journey. 
Was waked by the servant at Y / 2 p. 6 to know if I 

1 So in the MS. 

2 For schnapps, 

5 For Megsra, one of the avenging goddesses, the Erinyes or Furies. 
4 For Erfurt. 

347 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

would have breakfast ; again at 7 to know if I would 
have my boots cleaned ; these inquiries being answered 
in the negative, and with great good humor , I rose and 
after two hours delay we moved about 9. An open 
country with gentle swells and extensive plains of rich 
soil and highly cultivated. No enclosures ; the cattle 
are not suffered to go at large. Destitute of wood. 
Two English miles before reaching Weimar you are 
on an elevated plain terminated by hills more distant. 
An extensive horison 1 on every side. You do not 
suspect a valley till, within y z mile of Weimar, you 
discover the town in a vale 100 feet below you. I was 
not deceived in the phiz of my compagnon. He was 
morose to rudeness, a merchant from the neighborhood 
of Frankfort, and being bound to Leipzig, left us at 
Erfurth. The other, who came with me hither, a most 
amiable youth, a sub. in the chasseurs 1 of Saxe 1 , devoted 
himself to me with constant assiduity. At 1 arrive 
and put up at the Elephant, not a creature in the 
house speaking a word of French. Was shown into a 
very, very small triangular room, coarsely furnished 
and no bell. " Have you no larger room ? ' " No." 
So I found this very good. Let me see, I don't recol- 
lect where I breakfasted. In fact, I think I had not 
breakfasted at all. Ordered tea. Opened my trunks, 
sent out the following letters with my address : 4 

At 4 came in the Baron de Schrade 5 , who intro- 
duced himself to me as the brother of la Baronne 



1 So in the MS. 

2 The chasseurs were originally infantry or cavalry soldiers in the French army trained for 
rapid maneuvers. In Germany they are called Jiiger, and are practically sharpshooters. 

3 French for Saxony. 

4 Here there is a break in the MS. 

5 His true name was Von Schardt. 



348 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

de Stein 1 ; presently a message from la Baronne de 
Stein, asking me to call and take tea. Message from 
M. de Bartuck 2 , apologizing that he could not call till 
morning. From la Princesse Caroline, requesting to 
see me in the morning at 1 1. Then in came my land- 
lord, expressed his dissatisfaction with my room and 
asked if 1 would not prefer a larger. " Most cer- 
tainly." In five minutes myself and baggage were 
transferred to a large, handsome, well-furnished room, 
with every convenience. {On fait peu de cas des voy- 
ageurs en diligence*.) At 6 to la Bar. de Stein. T : 
Sa file, grande, belle, bien fait, chev. no., blonde* ; 
Madame la Bar. d'Egglestein ; la Bar. de Knebel, 
dame d'bonJ de la Princesse Caroline ; all in calico and 
en famille. Tea made at the table of which and biscuit 
(rusk) I partook. Sat about an hour, then home and 
engaged in fifty nameless occupations the remainder or 
the evening. The Elephant is on one of the principal 
squares. Looking out of my window just at dawn 
this morning saw great numbers of people, principally 
women, erecting tents and slight sheds all round the 
square. It must be a great market day or a fair. 
After breakfast went out for an hour to see the show 
and the people. It is a kind of fair. Made one 
pleasant acquaintance. At 10 came in Mons. Bertuch, 
a frank, sprightly, sensible man, of much learning and 

1 Frau von Stein was one of the best known ladies at the Weimar court. She is especially 
noted in German literature because of her close intimacy with the poet Goethe and her remark- 
able influence upon his poetic development. 

2 Friedrich Justin Bertuch (1747-1822) was a book and art dealer in Weimar. He was also 
an author of some note and a councilor in the government of the Duke of Saxe-Weimar. 

3 Stage-coach passengers are slighted. 

4 Her daughter, tall, beautiful, well formed (bien faite) ; black hair (cheveux noi'rj), blonde. 
; For dame d* honneur. Maid of honor. Frau von Knebel was the wife of Karl Ludwig von 

Knebel (1744-1834), who was a close friend of the poets Goethe and Herder, and himself an 
author. 

349 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

in liason 1 with all the literati 1 of Germany. Appears 
about 55 but says he is 67 ; has promised to announce 
me to Wieland 5 and Goethe 4 and gave me some 
renseignments as to my duty toward the court. At 10 
to la Princesse Caroline, a very lovely, interesting 
woman. T : M'lle la Baronne de Knebel, Madame 
la Baronne de Stein. They inquired with great interest 
about the Imhoffs ; about America. At 12 to Ber- 
tuch's to get further instructions. To le Baron de 
Schrade, where x / 2 hour. T Madame la Baronne. 
To Baron , marechal de la cour s ; he was indis- 
posed and invisible. T Madame sa femme whom I 
met the first evening. Chez Madame de Stein and 
her belle soeur 6 . Madame d'Egglestein told me 
that M'lle Gore would be glad to see me. (An 
English lady of fortune, resident here for many years ; 
sister of Lady Cooper, now in Italy.) Went there 
and sent in my address ; denied ! To Madame de 
Stein's ; out, which was true, for I met her on my way 
home. Just after I got home came in an elderly man 
superbly dressed, with sword and chap, bra. 1 I sup- 
posed he must be a Baron at least. He very formally 
delivered me a message from S. A. le Due Regnant 8 , 

1 For liaison. Intimacy. 

2 Latin. Men of letters. 

3 Christoph Martin Wieland (1733-1813) was one of the best known of German authors. 
In 1772 he was called from his chair of philosophy and literature, at the University of Erfurt, to 
become tutor of the young Duke, the Crown Prince, at Weimar. There he remained until his 
death, some forty years afterward. 

4 Goethe (1749-1832), the greatest of German poets and the author of " Faust," settled at 
Weimar in 1775 on the invitation of the Duke of Saxe-Weimar, Charles Augustus. Here he 
was the great center of attraction, not only as a poet, but also as a scientific investigator and a 
very high official in the ducal government. The friendship between him and the Duke was one 
of the most notable in history. 

5 Marshal of the court. 

6 For belle-sveur. Sister-in-law. 

7 See Glossary. 

8 For Son Altesse le Due Regnant. His Highness the reigning Duke. 

3S° 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

requesting me to dine with him the same day at x / 2 p. 
2. There was no refusing, so made my toilette, got a 
sedan chair (much used here) and went au Palais. But 
just before going, the valet who attends me repeated 
to me an hundred times, with great impatience and 
emphasis, something which I could not comprehend, 
nor could any way conceive to be of the least import- 
ance ; but there happening to be below a gentleman 
who spoke French, with his aid I discovered that the 
valet wished to inform me that before going to court 
it was indispensable that I should send cards to two of 
the great officers of court, in which, the gentleman 
said, the valet was right. Gave him two cards and he 
went off very happy. Arrived au Palais was shown 
into a drawing room where was nobody. Presently 
came in maids of honor, two very pretty girls and au 
fait 1 to their duty. They led me into an adjoining 
room where was presented to S. A. la Duchesse 

Regnante 1 ; to S. A. la Duchesse , sister of 

Emperor Alexander ; au Prince Her edit aire 1 , a very 
amiable, well-bred young man of about 25, and finally 
came in le Due Regnant*. The gentlemen led each a 
lady to dinner. I was placed on the right hand of le 
pri. hered.\ vis-a-vis la Comtesse de Peyster, dame 
d'hon. au Princess Marie (de Russie 5 ), a very interest- 



1 Acquainted with. 

2 Her Highness the reigning Duchess. 

3 For au Prince Hir'editaire, To the Crown Prince. 

4 Karl August, Duke, and from 1815, Grand Duke, of Saxe-Weimar-Eisenach, was no ordi- 
nary ruler. His reign was the most brilliant epoch in the history of Saxe-Weimar. He was a 
gifted and intelligent patron of literature and art, and is especially notable as having been the 
patron and friend of Goethe. During his reign Weimar became a modern Athens. He was also 
the first of the German rulers to grant a liberal constitution. 

5 For dame a" hanneur a la Princesse Marie de Russie. Maid of honor to the Princess 
Marie of Russia. 

3S* 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

ing face et les plus belles mains 1 . Marie is very hand- 
some and does credit to her rank and birth. But I 
must stop with details and only make short notes to 
talk from. La Baronne Knebel, dame d'hon. a Princesse 
Caroline asked me to tea to-morrow (invitation of the 
Princesse). Baron d'Humbold 2 ; la Princesse Caroline. 
Home at ^2 p. 5 and at 6 to the theatre. No grille 
or jalousie before les loges % of the royal family. Much 
amused at theatre. Young Bertuch explained to me. 
Home at 9. Left to my valet to get mus. 4 , which he 
did of his own taste. Pas mauvJ But white and 
white. It is so fade. 6 Tea, which was unnecessary. 
The battle of Jena terminated in this place ; in the 
town, gardens, houses, parks ; disorders and incidents 

of ditto. Major riding through town without 

his head. 

4. Couche y 2 p. 11. Lev. 7. Note from Ber- 
tuch that he would call at 10 to take me to Weiland's 7 
and Goethe's. At 10 pere et jils % called. Went first 
to Wieland's, 77. To Goethe's, 5s 9 . Y Humboldt. 
Les medailles 10 . To la Baronne de Stein's ; tete-a-tete 
y 2 hour. Promenade through the park ; crossing the 
little Ulm ; the summer house ; the fountains ; caves ; 
ruins ; walks and views. Din. chez moi. Vin Johan- 



1 And the most beautiful hands. 

2 Probably Wilhelm von Humboldt. Both he and his great brother Alexander bore the 
title of baron. 

3 No railing or screen in front of the boxes, etc. 

4 For muse. 

5 For pas mauvaise. Not bad. 

6 It is so insipid. 

7 For Wieland. 

8 Father and son. Probably Goethe and his son. 

9 Goethe was actually over 60. Wieland was 76. 
10 The medals or medallions. 



35 2 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

nisberg 1 . At 6 to la Baronne Kneble chez la Prin. z 
Caroline's. T : La Baronne de Stein ; la Pririse ; a 
gentleman, and another dame. Tea and cheerful con- 
fab. M'lle Gore, who began an apology. " Mad., 
tout belle femme a le droit de faire la coquette"*. On rit 4 . 
Tea, bishop, cakes. At j4 P- 7 Bertuch sent his coach 

for me to take me to . T a circle of about 

fifteen, very gay. Saw but one ; de Reizenstein, souer 
de la Comtesse de Peystre. "Obstupui" 5 . Rendezvous 
for to-morrow. Helas 6 Mary Ann! This day would 
make about 200 pages if written out. T. 7 would have 
been cont. s Home at 10. 

5. Couche 1. Lev. 8. At 10 by appointment 
to Bertuch's. T : Le pere, le fils et fern.; Mons. de 
Miiller, conseiller prive de la Regence et env. ext. de 
Weimar a Paris 9 . To Madame Wollzogen, souer de 
la veuve de Schiller 10 . T ent. Madame de Goethe", c. 
d. housekeeper. Un fils i/ 11 . Encore chez Bertuch. 
Alors av. un carte d'Amerique chez la belle de Reizen- 
stein 15 . T : Mere et Com'se 14 de Peystre sa souer. 
M'lle has lost no ground to-day. We ran over United 

1 For Johannisberger wine. 

2 For la Princesse. 

J Mad. probably for Mademoiselle. " Mademoiselle, every (toute) beautiful woman has the 
right to coquet." 

4 Laughter. Literally, one laughs. 

5 Latin. I was stricken dumb. 

6 For helas. Alas ! 

7 Theodosia, Burr's daughter. 

8 For contente. Pleased. 

9 For Conseiller Prive de la Regence et Envoy'e Extraordinaire de Weimar a Paris. Privy 
Councilor of the Regency and Envoy Extraordinary of Weimar at Paris. The word regence, 
regency, must refer here simply to the ducal government, and not to the regency of the Duchess 
Amalia, which had lasted from 1759 to 1775. Friedrich von Miiller was born in 1779 and died 
in 1849. He was a close friend of Goethe. 

10 Sister of Schiller's widow. 

11 Madame Goethe entered (/ entra). This was Christine Vulpius, whose acquaintance 
Goethe made in 1788 and who lived with him as his mistress until their public marriage in 1806, 
on the day of the battle of Jena. 

12 [They have] a son of 17. 

13 To Bertuch's again. Then with a (une) map of America to the beautiful de Reizenstein 

14 For Comtesse. 

3 S3 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

States. Her remarks charmed and astonished me. 
Din. chez moi. Soup. At 4 to Madame de Wollzo- 
gen by her own appointment ; denied, but why, could 
not comprehend. Her dom. told me in German a 
very long story and with great animation and zeal of 
which I understood not a sentence. Home. Note 
to Bertuch's that I would call to see him if at home 
and disengaged ; desole 1 to be engaged. Then sat to 
reading the details of the battle de Jena, &c, when 
Mr. de Muller, whom of all men in this place I wished 
most to see, came in. 

6. I had a baking this morning and lay in a 
torpid state till 8. Before 10 came in Bertuch jils z (a 
young man of talents and learning). Went together 

to the attelier de sculpture 1 de Mr. , a young 

man of extraordinary talents. Thence to Madame la 
Marechale d'Eglefsstein 4 by invitation delivered by 
Mr. Muller last evening. T : la Baronne Reizenstein 
{la conqu. est Jinie s and Gamp is ready for any romance); 
Mr. Muller, and about half a dozen of each sex and 
of the most distinguished. Le poete 6 Falk would have 
amused me much had it not been for Reizenstein. 
Staid till near 1. Chocolate, biscuit, and cakes are 
the repast on these morning parties. Madame la 
Marechale made an apology on part of la Duchesse ; 
she supposed I had bid conge 1 to the Court and there- 

1 Very sorry (desole). 

2 Bertuch junior. 

3 Sculptor's studio. (Atelier.) 

4 For Madame la Marechale d'Egglestein, the wife of the Marshal (of the Court). 

5 For la conqu'ete est Jinie. The conquest is complete, i. c, she has entirely won me over. I 
am her slave. 

6 Falk, the poet (poete). This was Johannes Daniel Falk, a German philanthropist and 
writer, the founder of the Falk Institute for abandoned and neglected children at Weimar. 

7 Taken my leave of (conge). 

354 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

fore had not invited me. To Madame la Baronne de 
Stein, where y 2 hour ; a very sensible, well-bred 
woman. She told me what I did not know nor sus- 
pect, that la Princesse Caroline would be glad to see 
me any morning. Home at i. Found note from 
Madame de Wollzogen inviting me to tea this even- 
ing, to which replied desole 1 that I was engaged with 
Bertuch. At 5 to Bertuch's. He is full of all sorts 
of information and seems to take pleasure in commu- 
nicating. Revenue of Weimar about 800,000 ecus z . 
Territory 40 square miles German ; about 700 English 
miles. Five branches of Ernest 3 . Weimar, Gotha, 
Eisenac. At 6 Bertuch fils went with me to the play. 
The Duke y in plain dress and in his little open side 
box without an attendant. Duke pays about 3,000 
ecus per annum to support the theatre. A serious 
comedy, of which I will send you a copy, was per- 
formed perfectly to my satisfaction. Near me in the 

; Professor Weisser ; M'lles Goldacker, deux 

souers. 

7. Lev. 7. At 10 to Bertuch's to have 100 
renseignments 4 . To M'lle la Baronne Knebel ; out. 
La Baronne de Stein ; out. M'lle Reizenstein ; out. 
Chez Goethe, where found them all. Also les deux 
souers Goldacker, la Com. de Peystre, and a belle assem- 
blage^; a musical party a midf. (But going in the 

1 See note I, preceding page. 

2 An ecu or crown was worth about 88 cents in United States money of the time. 

3 In 1485 the grandsons of Frederick the Valiant, Ernst and Albert, divided the inherited 
countries of Saxony, so that Ernst received Thuringia, and Albert, Meissen, and two lines were 
thus formed, which still flourish, the Ernestine and the Albertine, of which the former reigns in 
the Saxon duchies, the latter in the kingdom of Saxony. 

4 To have or get a hundred pieces of information. 

5 For un bel assemblage. A fine assemblage. 

6 At noon (a midi). 

355 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

street met Madame de Schopenhauer 1 who asked me 
to meet a small party at her house at 6.) De Reizen- 
stein said she would be at Schopenhauer's, so resolved 
to go ; walked with her and sisters. Early in the 
morning one of the huissiers 1 called with invitation 
from the Duke to dinner at y 2 p. i. Yesterday did a 
betise 1 . Saw in the street a girl of 3 years old making 
a stand and refusing to move. Two ladies trying to 
prevail on her to go, but no. Went to see the child ; 
very lovely. One of the ladies la Com. de Peystre, 
whom I recognized. Spoke formally ; the other I did 
not recognize nor notice. It was la Grand Duchesse ! 
Relating the story to Madame de Stein, told her I had 
met the little Princess with la Com. de Peystre and a 
jolie fille de chambre*; all which was repeated to the 
Grand Duchesse. Had to settle this when we met at 
dinner. About thirty at table ; le grand salon 1 '. Mes- 
sage just before coming off that la Grand Duchesse 
asked me to pass the evening. Tea and cards. Voila 
plein d'qf's 6 , for there is a ball to-night to which I am 
resolved to go. At 5 came home for dinner. Off 
directly to Bertuch's and thence to Schopenhauer's ; 
there were two brothers and a sister from Jena, a most 
charming family. Was obliged to leave it at j4 P- 6 
to attend la Grand Duchesse. De Reizenstein had 
not come in but understood I should meet her at 



1 Madame Johanna Henriette Schopenhauer, the mother of Arthur Schopenhauer, the cele- 
brated German philosopher, the chief expounder of pessimism. She was herself a writer of 
novels, books of travel, etc. 

2 Ushers, door-keepers. t 

3 Stupidity, tom-foolery (betise). 

4 A pretty chamber-maid. 

5 The large drawing room. 

6 For [me] voila plein d'affaires. I'm full of business. 



35 6 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

court, but she was not there ! La Grand Duchesse 
engaged me at her table at whist. Y Mr. de Stein de 
Lensihoten, Hollandais 1 . La Princesse speaks English 
extremely well ; French like a Parisian. Fine hands 
and arms. Elbow perfect. Very intelligent questions. 
Lost 28 gro. At x / 2 p. 9 au bal. % Y: Le Doctor 
Holberg; les deux souers ; M'lle John (jig. EspanS) ; 
Madame Goethe, about thirty or forty dames and a 
most beautiful assemblage ; contre danse* ; valse ; 
grandpere s ; soupe. Mr. WolfF V acteur et j em. 6 Staid 
till 1. Bertuch jils toujours 1 et le Doctor Holberg et 
Muller. The Americans known here are Smith and 
Poinsett, both of South Carolina ; the latter particu- 
larly intimate with Dr. ■, the physician of 

Clarke, now minister of war. 

Erfurt, January 8-9, 18 10. Felicitate me, my 
dear T., on my escape from the most critical danger 
of my life ! I have been, as you know, in a pretty 
many dilemmas and jeopardies, but in no one that 
called for so much effort and determination as this, 
and even now, at the distance of fifteen English miles, 
I do not feel myself quite safe. Yet having ordered 
post-horses for 6 in the morning, not choosing to 
hazard the lapse of two or three hours to wait for the 
diligence (for possibly I may be pursued), my escape 
may, I think, be considered as accomplished. How 



1 A Hollander. 

2 To the ball. 

3 For une figure espagnole. A Spanish face. 

4 For contredanse. Quadrille. 

5 Grandfather. What the reference is is not plain. 

6 Mr. Wolff, the actor, and his wife. 

7 This word has here the meaning of still, i. «., Bertuch junior was still with him. 



357 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

shall I apologize to la Baronne de S. to whom I was 
engaged for to-morrow (Tuesday) evening, when she 
promised that I should see all that is beautiful and 
brilliant in Weimar and its vicinage ? How to the 
good and amiable Wieland whom I had promised to 
meet this evening? How to Dr. H. whose friendship 
has been so disinterested and may be so important ? 
At this [hour] probably enough, he is writing letters 
for me. But I have escaped, that is my consolation ! 
I do verily believe that de Reizenstein is a sorceress ! 
Indeed, I have no doubt of it and if I were President 
of the secret tribunal she should be burnt alive 
to-morrow. Another interview and I might have 
been lost, my hopes and projects blasted and aban- 
doned. The horror of this last of catastrophes struck 
me so forcibly and the danger was so imminent that at 
8 o'clock I ordered post-horses, gave a crown extra 
to the postillion to drive like the devil, and lo ! here I 
am in a warm room near a neat good bed, safely 
locked within the walls of Erfurt, rejoicing and repin- 
ing. If you had been near me I should have had 
none of this trouble. The history of the day must be 
deferred till my head is more, posed 1 . 

Gotha. As I was writing the concluding line of 
the preceding page last evening (about I o'clock) an 
ill-looking fellow opened my door without knocking, 
and muttering in German something which I did not 
comprehend, bid me put out my candle. Being in no 
very placid humor at the moment, as you see, I 
cursed him and sent him to hell in French and 



I Staid, sedate. See Glossary. 

358 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr. 

English. He advanced and was going to seize the 
candle. My umbrella, which had a dirk in the handle, 
being near me, I seized it, drew the dirk, and drove 
him out of the room. Some minutes after I heard 
the steps of a number of men and looking out at my 
windows saw it was a corporal's guard. It then 
occurred to me that this Erfurt, being a garrison town 
with a French governor (de Vismes), there might 
probably enough be an order for extinguishing lights 
at a certain hour, and I had no doubt but the gentle- 
men I had just seen in the street were coming to 
invite me to take a walk with them. So I bundled up 
my papers and put them in my pocket to be ready for 
a lodging in the guard house. It was only the relief 
of the centinels 1 going round and who the impertinent 
extinguisher was I have not learnt. At ^ p. 7 I was 
off without breakfast. Ascended a very long hill ; a 
small fort on the left ; stopped by the guard as usual 
at the gate to give your name, &c. After rising the 
hill, a plain the whole way, about fifteen English miles; 
an open plain ; not a fence, not a grove, not a house 
save two small toll-houses ; many villages on the 
right ; you pass through only one, about two English 
miles before reaching Gotha, a parcel of poor-looking 
houses ; a row of immense trees are each side the road 
the whole way. Very cold. Arrived at Gotha at 11. 
After getting breakfast and dressing, sent Mons. B.'s 
letter to Mr. Reichart 2 with my card ; also cards to 

1 So in the MS. 

2 Heinrich August Ottokar Reichard (1751-1828), whose entire life was lived in and about 
Gotha. He was an author of considerable repute, a statesman, being war councilor at the time 
of Burr's visit, and was for many years director of the court theatre at Gotha. 

3S9 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 
, and walked out. Charl. 1 came running full 



speed and in spite of all I could do, joined me and 
walked with me. Le Baron de Strick arrived at i. At 
5 din. chez moi. Reichart, conseiller de guerre et auteur 

de* came in and sat a few minutes, and whilst 

I was dressing Mons. le Baron de Salish, merechal de 
la Cour*, on the part of the Duchesse to ask me to pass 
the evening. Sup. au Palais. T a small select 
party. Cards (boston) with la Duchesse and won a 1 I 5 
ecu which I have wrapped in paper and marked for 
you. About 9 the Duke 5 came in; a very handsome, 
tall, graceful blond, bein blond 6 . Engaged me in con- 
versation so that I could not again join the card table. 
At supper was on the left and the Duke on the right 
of the Duchesse. Very cheerful. M'lle La Baronne de 
Dalwigk, dame d'hon., a del' esprit 1 . Much of United 
States. Was greatly astonished by some of the 
remarks of the Duke, manifesting sensibility and sen- 
timent. Of cannibals. He has flashes and detached, 
solitary ideas which are extraordinary and admirable. 
He detests the English, though nearly allied to the 
British family. Of Napoleon. Showed a ring with his 
hair. Of presentiments; omens; superstitions; of his 
brother Frederick, now in Italy ; singular disease, 
roideur s ; showed me the boudoir beautifully fitted up; 

I Probably for Charlotte. 

z War councillor and author of . Burr may have meant to refer to Reichard's " The- 

aier-ialender" in twenty-five volumes, or to his guide books for travelers, especially those 
appearing in French, e. g., " Passagier auf der Reise in Deutschland," " The Traveler Journey- 
ing in Germany." 

} Court Marshal; in German Hofmarscball. 

4 At the Palace. 

5 Ernst I., who began to reign as Duke of Saxe-Coburg in 1806. Gotha was his capital. 

6 Blond, very (bien) blond. 

7 M'lle de Dalwigk, lady of honour {dame d'honneur), has intellect (a de Vesprit). 

8 For raidcur. Stiffness, rigidity. 

36O 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

the designs given by himself. But the most interest- 
ing subject to me was the little Princesse Louisa in her 
tenth year; his only child; born of a former marriage; 
a fine, healthy, frank, animated child, very handsome. 
I did very humbly express my admiration for her. 
At coming away the Duke asked me to dinner to- 
morrow. Home at y 2 P- n and somehow quite 
fatigued, of which not sensible till I got home. Bon 
soir. Mem.: Paid 18 groschen for the hire of a hat 
and sword. 

ii. It must have been very late when I went to 
bed for I rose with reluctance at Y / 2 p. 7. Wrote 
note to Reichart requesting his company to see the 
Cabinet des Medailles\ said to be the third in Europe. 
At 9 a bussier 1 of the Duke to ask me to dine to-day 
at 2. He came back after five minutes to say that 
the dinner was to be in the Duke's apartments. 
Called on Reichard at 10 and went to the Cabinet des 
Med., which is in a wing of the Palace. It is, indeed, 
very rich. The list and description is in sixteen 
volumes folio ; that sounds very large, but I am 
pretty sure that I had the XVIth in my hand. A 
great many of Alexander ; of the Roman coins a 
complete series from the first Consul to the last 
Emperor. Passed three hours in the cabinet and 
library. Home at 1 and au Palais at 1. The salon a 
manger is magnifique 1 . Placed as before. About 
thirty at table ; only one lady besides the family. 



1 Cabinet of Medals (des Midailles). 

2 For huissier. Usher. 

J The dining saloon is magnificent. 



36l 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Much talk about X and of la Princesse for Queen. 
How he does hate the English ! Of Coxe who mar- 
ried M'lle de Schale. " Men are fit to educate 
nothing but horses and dogs." After dinner la petite 
Princesse came in ; her destiny announced. She very 
frequently declared that she loves Charles ; was sent 
to show me the pictures of the late Duchesse and of 
the present Duke and other matters. About two 

hours at table. Adjourned to the and after 

coffee continued Y / 2 hour. Conversation. The Duke 
and Duchesse retired and then the rest. The same 
usage prevails at Weimar. The only lady beside the 
family was M'lle Vidonie de Dieskau, who is with her 
uncle, Baron Hardenberg, from Altenberg 1 . Agreed 
to be of the party but embarassed at learning that no 
maids beyond 18 would be permitted. M'lle V. de 
D. 40; fat; willing; cheerful but not gay; disp., 
la la 1 . 

12. Rose at 7. At 9 ran in to see Reichard, 
who is next door. Veuf. Auteur de 1 , etc. At 10 le 
Baron de Tummel called with his carriage to take me 
to the Observatoire 4 . The old building being in 
decay a new one has been constructed under his direc- 
tion. The local is magnifique $ ; 300 feet above the 
city ; distance about one English mile. Extremely 
well supplied with instruments. But the most inter- 
esting object to me was Bernard de Lindenau 6 , the 

1 For Altenburg. A considerable city of the duchy Saxe-Altenburg. 

2 Probably for disposhe, la la ! Disposed, ready. Now then ! 
J A widower, author of, etc. 

4 The Observatory. This was at Seeberg, near Gotha. 

5 The premises are magnificent. 

6 Bernhard August von Lindenau (1780-1854) was both a very prominent Saxon statesman 
and a well-known astronomer. From 1804 until 1817 he was director of the Observatory men- 
tioned above. 

362 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Professor, the occupant; already, at the age of 25, 
has celebrity as an astronomer and mathematician 
throughout Europe. His appearance is in the highest 
degree prepossessing. Sensibility, modesty, intelli- 
gence, finely blended. His story is quite a romance ; 
was gay, extravagant, dissolute ; got in love and was 
beloved ; his mistress died ; he shut himself up, went 
nowhere, saw no one ; devoted himself to science ; 
was known to le Baron Tummel, who procured for 
him the place he occupies. He presented me a copy 
of the book he has lately published, " Tables Barome- 
triques" 1 . [Read] the introduction with great pleasure. 
You will see that he is not merely mathematician, but 
a man of thought and sentiment. The son of the 
Baron, a fine lad of about 17, was with us. Home at 
1. Yesterday sent my card to M. de Kunkel, con- 
seiller interne de S. A. R. P Electrice de Hesse, nee 
Princes se de Dannemarc 1 . Received message that her 
Highness would be glad to see me after dinner this 
day. At 1 au Chateau to dine. A party of more 
than thirty. One stranger, a Prussian general. Le 
Com. de P. J begged me to cede to him ma plac* next 
la Duchesse, as he was a stranger just arrived. The 
table is always cheerful. Le Due extremely gay. 
Having said that I had your picture, after dinner he 
insisted that I should send for it, which was done by 
one of the huissiers. You were exhibited and suffi- 



1 " Barometric Tables." 

2 Interior Councilor (;'. «., Secretary of the Interior) of her Royal Highness (Son Altesse 
Royale) the Electress of Hesse who was born Princess of Denmark (Danemark). 

I Probably for Le Commandant de P. 
4 For ma place. My seat. 



363 



Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr. 

ciently admired. S. A. 1 was quite gallant to you. 
La Prin. regie 2, asked me to her concert this evening 
at 7. Home at 5 and went out with Reichard to see 
Gallati 3 , professor of history and author of a history 
of Germany which is esteemed the best of its kind, 
being, as he said, a mere summary in ten volumes 
quarto. It has gone through six editions and has 
been translated into French and Russian. He pre- 
sented me a small statistical book, having heard that I 
was making inquiries on such subjects. Home at 6 
and learned that a servant of S. A. R. V ' Electrice has 
been to say that she was expecting me ! Now, to say 
the truth, I had totally forgotten S. A. and her con- 
decension in giving me audience. Off I went, how- 
ever; was received by M. de K. and announced; then 
passing through several rooms was presented. After 
saluting, she sat on a sofa and begged me to be seated 
on a sofa chair by her side, which I obeyed. M. de 

K. and M'lle de , dame d'hon., stood. She is 

mother of la D. reg'te 4 , aunt of Gustavus IV. and the 
King of Den. 5 Much conversation about Sweden, 
especially as I had seen Gustavus IV. and his family. 
After x / 2 hour came in S. A. la Duchesse reg. 4 and a 
few minutes after, I retired. S. A. R. thanked me 
and said many civil things. Her Palaces, &c. are 
now occupied by King Jerome. Her husband in 

1 For Son Altesse. His or her Highness. 

2 For la Princesse Regnante. The reigning Princess. 

3 Johann Georg August Galletti (1750-1828) was the author of numerous historical works on 
Germany, France, and the world in general, none of which has stood the test of time unless it 
be his "History and Description of the Dukedom Gotha" in four volumes, published about 
1781. A few years after Burr's visit he was appointed ducal historiographer and geographer, 
as well as court councilor. 

4 For la Duchesse Regnante. The reigning Duchess. 

5 Denmark. 

3 6 4 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Bohemia with his mistress. Home and then to the 
concert. Besides the ducal family, there were eight 
ladies and about twenty gentlemen; about thirty mus- 
ical performers; many of them have salaries from the 

Due. 1 Madame played the violin and her 

daughter the piano extremely well. After the concert 
an elegant supper. I was seated between S. A. and 
M'lle de Dalwigk. With the latter much conversa- 
tion about her lover, who has behaved like a true 
Englishman. She is a very charming woman ; will 
tell you the story at large. La petite 1 Louisa was at 
the concert. I demanded a souvenir, to which she 
agreed and would think what it should be. Proposed 
a garter. A deal of laughter, &c. Home at x / 2 p. 
10, having been asked to dinner to-morrow in case I 
should stay. (It must have been Wednesday evening 
that I called with Mr. de Reichard on le Baron de 
Falkenberg ; the most extraordinary [man] of 83 
that I ever beheld. He is Prime Minister and 
attends to all the duties of the office ; works generally 
till 12 and 1 o'clock; reads without spectacles, is 
cheerful, animated ; fine teeth and features well pre- 
served ; his voice as firm as at 40. Madame a very 
charming, lady-like woman about 55 ; she presented 
me /' "Almanac de Gotha"* in a very beautiful form, 
as you shall see.) 

Gotha, Friday, January 13, 18 10. (That's 

1 The Duke. 

1 The little. 

J For /' " Almanach de Gotha." An annual register containing lists of government officials, 
genealogies of German princely families, necrology, diplomatic intelligence, statistics, etc. 
From 1764 to 1804 it was published in the German language. Since that time it has been pub- 
lished in both French and German. 

3<>5 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

impossible, for Monday was New Year's. You must 
look back and see where the error commenced.) 

Gotha, Friday, January 12, 18 10. You will sus- 
pect that I have taken winter quarters at Gotha. Not 
quite so, nor is the delay mere nonchalance" ', but I have 
no time to reason or explain or comment or apologize; 
mere notes of facts is all that I can attempt. We will 
dilate and fill up the canvas with the interesting 
details (it is only minute details that interest), viv. 
voc. 2 Rose at 7. At 9 to Reichart's. At 10 came 
in Mr. de Kunkel to thank me in the name of S. A. R. 
and in his own and to make compliments, &c. I 
gave him yesterday a small Swedish coin having a 
good likeness of Gustavus IV. which he gave to 
S. A. R. and whereon they had the politeness to set 
great value. It is one of Gampy's collection, but I've 
got the like or would not have given it to any Prince 
or Princess in Europe. At 12 to M. de Tummel ; 
out ; left card. The brother Tummel is author of 
many pretty and very gallant things. The hussier 
came in to know whether I would stay to dinner; yes. 
At 2 went to dinner au Palais. La Duchesse indis- 
posed and did not appear ; had my place. Dalwigk 
proposed to me to pass a few minutes in her room 
after dinner ; did so ; showed me the picture of her 
lover, which I very honestly (not very kind, however), 
told her I did not like at all. Gave me address of 
him and her. Home at 5. At 6 to the comedy as 
agreed with M'lle D. The dramatis person^ you 

1 Heedlessness. 

2 For viva voce. By the living voice, orally. 
} The cast of characters. 

366 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

will see in the bill attached to this. The parts were 
well cast and played to perfection. I laughed a great 
deal, as did M'lle D. Everything expressed in the 
bill was really performed and perfectly well performed. 
Just at this moment, 10 o'clock, comes in a huissier 
with compliments of la petite Louisa and a bouquet 
of her own drawing as " souvenir." The bouquet is 
really wonderfully executed for her years. The bor- 
der in handsome taste. You shall see and judge, but 
on examining I find no name or inscription to verify 
this important transaction. \i o'clock. Have been 
two hours about mus. 1 affair which failed. Saw Miss 
W., a most lovely klin. demir., Carol. Chart. Wilhelm?; 
say 1 6. Have done nothing toward packing. But 
the most interesting part of the evening has not been 
told. At the comedy met le min. 1 le Baron de Tum- 
mel. He insisted that I should take a seat in his 
coach with his brother the author and visit le Prem. 
Min. 4 le Baron de Falkenberg. Agreed, though I 
had put off" my court paraphernalia and was in my 
traveling costume, having bona fide'' resolved to leave 
Gotha to-morrow. Met le Baron de F. in full dress 
and in the salon 6 lo, the Duke himself and Madame 
de F ! We five were all. Sat round the tea table 
and took tea. The Duke perfectly amiable ; renewed 
the subject of your picture ; found a great deal of 



1 For muse. 

2 For a most lovely Heine demirep, Caroline Charlotte Wilhelmina. A most lovely little 
demirep, etc. Note the mixture ot French, German and English. 

3 For le Ministre. The Minister. 

4 For le Premier Ministre. The Prime Minister. 

5 Latin. In good faith. 

6 The drawing-room. 



367 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

fault with the painter. (He has taste and skill in all 
the fine arts.) In the original, said he, there must be 
dignity, majesty, genius, gentleness, sensibility — all 
discernible in the picture, but imperfectly expressed ; 
would have had a copy if there had been time; prom- 
ised to send him one. He wished very much that a 
friend of his in Paris, S. A. S. 1 la Duchesse de C, etc. 
should know me; asked if I would take a letter; 
most certainly. Le Ministre Baron de F., hearing 
that / was a coin and medal hunter^ (see again, you 
little villain, oh, I could choke you !) offered me sev- 
eral of the coins of Gotha, which are not now seen in 
circulation. These I peremptorily and constantly 
refused, though I did really wish to add them to my 
collection. Sat about two hours and home just before 
10. The Duke took a most affectionate leave of me. 
13. Couche 1. Rose 7. I shall really go this 
morning; have been very hard at work packing. 
Your picture took me x /% hour at least, you huzzy, 
you! Last night after writing you, passed an hour 
with the Baron Strick. It would seem that every 
incident of my life is known throughout Germany. 
Duels, treasons, speeches, gallantries. Le Baron Str., 
a young, handsome man, formerly minister plenipoten- 
tiary from Holland to and now chamberlain 



1 The reader will note the variation. This is not S. A. R. There is a difference. The 
following explanation is taken substantially from Larousse's great French work. When about 
the time of Louis XI. the Kings of France had adopted the title of Majeste, that of Altesse, 
Highness, was given at first to their brothers and their children only. In Germany the sovereign 
princes, secular as well as ecclesiastical, also took the title of Altesse at the epoch at which that 
of Majeste came into vogue for kings. The princes invested with the electorate were called 
Altesses Electorates, Electoral Highnesses. To-day, save a few exceptions, the title of Altesse 
Royale or Impiriale belongs to all the princes issuing directly from a king or an emperor and 
that of Altesse Sir'enissime, Most Serene Highness, to their collaterals. 



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Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

du roi de Prusse 1 , accables 1 me with all sorts of atten- 
tion. Introductions to his friends at Eisenach, Paris, 
Holland. Indeed, more in this way than I can tell. 
He has nous et connaissances\ speaks French, German, 
and English ; knows everybody and is everywhere 
well received. Showed him Bollman's 4 letter to Jef- 
ferson ; B.'s conge au Sen. s he had seen before. Wrote 
early this morning to la belle Baronne de Dalwigk 
requesting that she would prevail on ma Princesse 6 to 
add a name and date to the bouquet, q. v. Just now 
a very kind note from S. A. S. le Due. with a letter 
addressed a S. \A. 6\] 7 la Duchesse de C,q. v. Too 
full of business to write you any more. 

Eisenach, January 13, 18 10. You see, Madame, 
that in spite of all your predictions to the contrary I 
did leave Gotha to-day ! For once you were out. It 
was at y 2 p. 1 that I got into a chaise with horses post 
extra; was here at 5. An exceptionally cold day, 
snowing a little, very little, all day. It does not know 
how to snow fast in this country. We can snow more 
in four hours than they in four days. All yesterday 
from 1 in the morning it snowed what they call hard 
and there is not yet four inches. At leaving Gotha 
after passing the gate and bridge, (thanks Mons. le 
Ministre de Tummel, these walls are now prostrating 
and filling up the ditch), you rise a hill, a gentle 

1 Of the King of Prussia. 

2 A hybrid verb anglicized from the French verb accabler, to overwhelm. 

3 He has brains and understanding. Nous probably stands for the Greek VOVff, mind. 

4 Eric Bollman. See Note 5, page 317. 

5 For Conge au Sinat. Aaron Burr's farewell to the senate of the United States upon the 
expiration of his term as Vice-President, a wonderfully eloquent production. It is said that 
nearly every senator was in tears when Burr concluded. 

6 My Princess. 

7 For a Son Vitesse Serenissime. Her Most Serene Highness. 

3 6 9 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

declivity. It may be called an inclined plain for i 1 /^ 
English miles. We were forty minutes getting to the 
summit and then we were not at the summit, for after 
descending a very little, we rose again still higher. 
The distance to this place is about fifteen English 
miles. The first ten or eleven you pass through three 
villages. The last two or three miles (English) are 
almost a continual village and the country extremely 
romantic and picturesque. The preceding part is quite 
an open country ; not a tree, fence, or house except in 
the villages ; gentle, bold, swells ; all the way under 
cultivation, but let me go back for a moment to Gotha. 
Gotha ! I bear thee in kind remembrance. The 
bouquet was sent back with the addition of a name 
and date by the fair hand of Louisa, accompanied by a 
very pretty note in English from la Baronne de Dal- 
wigk. Answered the note of S. A. S. le Due. 
Received a letter from de Reichart to his son-in-law le 

Baron de Goekhausen at the Place 1 . More 

letters from le Baron de Strick. Put up a La Demi 
Lune z . Ordered dinner ; fish and potatoes, and sent 
letters with my cards to Madame la Baronne de 
Bechtolsheim nee Baronne de Koller 3 ; to M. de 
Streiber, conseiller de legation de S. A. S. Mons'r le 
Due Reg't 4 de Saxe-Weimar-Eisenac ; to M. le Baron 
de Goekhausen b. fils de Reichert 5 ; to M. de 



1 square. 

2 For a la Demi-lunt. At the Half-moon. 

3 Julie Freifrau (Baroness) von Bechtolsheim (1751-1847), whose maiden name was Keller. 
Her husband was Vice-Chancellor at Eisenach. She was well known in Germany as a poetess 
under the name of Psyche, and was a great friend of the poet Wieland. 

4 His Most Serene Highness, the reigning Duke (Le Due Regnant). There may be a ques- 
tion as to whether the abbreviation Mons'r stands for Monsieur or Monseigneur. The latter 
title, meaning My Lord, was often applied to the princes of a sovereign family. 

5 Reichard's son-in-law (beau-fils). 



370 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Massovius. The three gentlemen above named called 
within an hour and proposed various things for my 
amusement. Agreed to meet the club to-night and to 

visit to-morrow. M. de Streiber has passed 

six years in Great Britain and speaks perfectly good 
English. Passed an hour with the club ; about twenty 
gentlemen. The Prussian General whom I met at 
Gotha ; quite another animal here. T also le Baron 
de Bechtolsheim, son of la Baronne above mentioned. 
It is most unfortunate that the mother is absent on a 
visit to some friends near Erfurt ; very unfortunate. 
She is one of the most distinguished personages in 
Germany for learning, wit, talents, grace, &c. — la de 
l'Enclos 1 of the age ! Stole off from the club at 9 ; 
walked the streets % hour ; no accident 2 . A beautiful 
little town ; all white ; walled and fortified. What 
nonsense ! This has been much the coldest day this 
year, and really cold ; would be called cold at Albany, 
but perfectly calm. 

14. Rose 7. Could not keep myself warm in 
bed, having ordered a mattress, thin and hard, and two 
thin quilts (called couvertures) ; added my great coat. 
At 10 to the post-house to see about diligence; none 
goes to Frankfort before Tuesday P. M.and then not 
direct, but some miles about, and is between three and 
four days, going day and night, from this to Frank- 
fort, which by the direct route is twenty-one miles 

1 Anne, called Ninon, de L'Enclos (1616-1706) was a noted French woman of pleasure who, 
though leading a free life, was never a public courtesan. She retained her beauty and charms 
to a very old age. In her salon she received the highest society, which has been compared for its 
tone with the Hotel de Rambouillet. Some of the most noted men of the day were among her 
lovers. If we are to believe Voltaire, Richelieu was the first of these. 

2 Here and elsewhere Burr uses the word accident to mean that he sought an amorous 
adventure. 

37 1 



Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

German. What's to be done ? Thence to le Baron 
de Goeckhausen beau-fils de Reichart, a sensible young 
man ; staid but a few minutes. Thence to Massovius's 
and he and I went together, as invited, to breakfast a 
la fourchette with Streiber. Met there Mr. M'Intosh, 
a Scotsman, who had been many years in North 
America and in Asia and Africa ; had an immense 
fortune which he lost by the French Revolution ; a 
very intelligent, amusing man. After breakfast Mons. 
Streiber took me in his sleigh to Wilhelmsthal, chateau 
de plaisance 1 de Due de Weimar (we are here again in 

his dominions). T: Mr. Roese and M'lle , 

amie de sa femme 1 ; Madame . They all spoke 

French very well. The road is exceedingly romantic. 
For i x / 2 English miles in a very narrow valley, the 
locks and mountains hanging over us ; then about one 
mile English rising the mountain. Descending about 
the same, the chateau, &c, in a valley of half a mile 
diameter below. Fires had been ordered and we had 

coffee and cakes. M'lle de is cheerful and 

pretty. Home at y 2 p. 4. The cold most intense. 
I was almost perished and had to bake an hour before 
I got thawed. Mr. Roese, seeing that I admired a 
picture of the Duke of Weimar which we saw au 
Chateau 1 , procured and presented me one. At 7 to 
Mr. de Streiber's ; a small club; five of each sex. Y: 
Madame Roese, who is very handsome; she and M'lle 
are both from Gotha. Cards ; whist ; won a 



1 Literally castle (chateau) of pleasure of the Duke (du Due) ; hence his villa. 

2 Friend of his wife. 
J At the castle. 



37 2 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr. 

thaler 1 . Supper with variety of wines. Home at 4 11. 
I much wished for your sake to have visited V ancien. 
chateau de Wartzbourg 2 , which is on the summit of the 
mountain overhanging this town. You can imagine 
nothing more romantic than the site. It has been 
famous in story more than 800 years. It is a fine 
ruin but part habitable and inhabited. The singer 5 , 
the battles, the enchantments, the imprisonments, &c, 
render it very famous. Luther, too, was there and 
had some squabbles with the Devil ; threw his ink- 
stand at his Majesty's head and the marks of the ink 
still visible. But the snow and ice have rendered the 
mountain impracticable and the castle absolutely inac- 
cessible. Mr. M'Intosh came in this morning and 
sat an hour. I admire his constancy and his loyalty. 
He is prisoner on parole as being a British subject ; 
has corresponded with Washington ; one of the letters 
now in the museum at Weimar. Met many very 
pretty faces in the streets. The lamps here are sus- 
pended on wire attached to the houses on each side. 
The same in several other towns and in the Pall 
Maille 4 , Altona. Eisenach has 9,000 inhabitants 5 . 

15. Couche 1. Rose 7. Still colder than yes- 
terday but perfectly calm. Called on Mr. Roese ; saw 
his beautiful wife and her jolie amie 6 . Madame has lately 
lost two children ; has left a very fine boy about 3 or 



1 A German silver coin worth j marks or between 70 and 75 cents of United States money. 

2 The ancient castle of Wartburg. It was founded in 1067 by Ludwig the Leaper, Land- 
grave of Thuringia, and was for several centuries the residence of his successors. Many histori- 
cal remembrances attach to this spot. Here took place, for instance, the famous contest between 
the Minaesingers about 1206. Luther was kept concealed in the castle from May 4, 1511, to 
March 3, 1522, during which time he finished his translation of the Bible into German. 

} Probably for singers. See the foregoing note. 

4 It will be remembered that Palmaille is the most fashionable street of Altona. 

5 To-day it has 24,000 inhabitants. 

6 Pretty friend. 

373 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

4 years old. Thence to General L. This is the 
General whom I met chez le due a 1 Gotha. He is 
now in the service of the King of Naples. Yesterday 
he sent me card of invitation for this evening, which 
accepted. Thence to one of the manufactories, &c. 
Mr. de Streiber. Home to thaw and then walked 
about the town and environs for near an hour ; inscrip- 
tion on an old building, " Hie sunt puhis, umbra, 
nihil*." Got home frozen stiff, though I had on my 
great coat and calashes. Baked an hour and then din- 
ner seul. Mon bote* is native of Hanover and speaks 
French freely and is very communicative. He sus- 
pects that I am an Englishman and has intimated how 
much, &c, &c. This duchy separating from Weimar 
paid a contribution of 150,000 ecus en argent*; more 
than 200,000 troops have passed through ; always 
maintained by the inhabitants ; free quarters, which 
must have been more than double the contribution. 
Recollect that the Duke of Weimar was in arms 
against the Emperor at this time. At 4 came Mr. de 
Streiber to inform me of the best means of getting to 
Frankfort. The best will be the expense of about 25 
dollars. The worst, i. e., diligence which goes a 
circuitous route and is three days and three nights on the 
way always going, would be about 12. Truly, as the 
weather is and is like to be, I should not like to hazard 
my precious carcass in a wagon without springs and 
badly covered, three days and nights. At ]/ 2 p. 6 to 

I At the Duke's at Gotha. 

1 Latin. " Here are dust, shade, nothing." 

3 For mon hate. My host. 

4 150,000 crowns (ecus) in money or silver. 

374 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

General Letocq's ; a very elegant party ; the rooms in 
very beautiful style. It is the house, the rooms, the 
furniture, and the taste of Madame la Baronne de 
Beckholsteim 1 . Her son was of the party, a very 
accomplished young man with a lovely wife to whom 
he was married a few months ago. T also la Gotha- 
rienne 1 . Cards, chess, supper. I played two games 
chess with the General and won both. It was a very 
cheerful party. Mon. , a young man of for- 
tune, of talents and learning, would bring me home in 
his carriage. Chez moi at x / 2 p- n. Not so cold. 

Mon. , who keeps regular meteorological notes, 

told me this evening that the thermometer (ReamurV) 
was at 7 o'clock this morning at io l /2 below o and at 
8, ig%, and that for ten years the cold has not been 
so intense by many degrees. 

H unnefeld, January 1 6, 1 8 1 o, 1 2 at night. Rose at 
7. Went early to the post-office to see about diligence. 
It is expected at 2, but after much deliberation resolved 
to take post-horses to Fulda, whence a very convenient 
diligence goes on Thursday to Frankfort. Called on 
Streiber at his manufactory and sent card of conge to Gen- 
eral Letocq. At 2 set out. About two English miles 
winding round the mountains along narrow valleys. 
Ascend mountain and descending the same, pass a small 
town. At two miles German from Eisenac to Berka, 
where changed horses and car. Two miles to Vach 4 , 
where change again. Three miles more to this place, 

1 For Bechtolsheim. 

z The lady from Gotha. 

j In the Reaumur thermometer the freezing-point is marked zero, and the space between 
this and the boiling-point is divided into 80 degrees. Hence 2o{^° Reaumur is about 14 below 
zero, Fahrenheit; 19%° Reaumur being about 12 below zero Fahrenheit. 

4 For Vacha. 

375 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr. 

frozen to an icicle and so resolve to thaw and bake till 7. 
Hannau, January 17, 18 10. Laid on a sofa last 
night without undressing. Rose at 7. Got breakfast 
and at 8 continued my route ; bitter, bitter cold. 
Arrived at Fulda at 10 ; formerly the sovereignty of the 
Bishop of Fulda; beautifully situate in an extensive val- 
ley on the small river Fulda. Though a small town of 
about 10,000 inhabitants, it exhibits much magnificence. 
You see twelve or fifteen steeples or towers as you 
approach ; in every direction chateaus, rows of trees. 
There are many things here worthy of notice, but the 
distressing intelligence that no diligence goes hence till 
Sunday left me the sad alternative of either waiting here 
four days or continuing in the same expensive way. 
Resolved on the latter and ordered horses immediately. 
While they were getting, walked about the town. This 
being a Catholic bishop everything is stamped with that 
character ; crosses, &c, on the houses ; the mile-posts a 
crucifix ten or fifteen feet high with a wooden Christ as 
large as life ; some lines carved on stone. The Bishop 
still resides here with a provision of 40,000 florins from 
the great Emperor. The Bishop was dethroned some 
years ago by the Prince of Orange. "Sic vos non Vobis" 1 . 

1 Burr refers here to a celebrated tradition, which is worth taking entire from Brewer's 
" The Reader's Handbook." The tale is that Vergil wrote an epigram on Augustus Caesar, 
which so much pleased the Emperor that he desired to know who was the author. As Vergil 
did not claim the lines, one Bathyllus declared they were his. This displeased Vergil, and he 
wrote these four words, Sic vos non vobis (so you not to you) four times at the commencement 
of four lines, and Bathyllus was requested to finish them. This he could not do, but Vergil 
completed the lines thus : 

Sic vos non vobis nidifteatis aves; 
Sic vos non vobis viliera fertis oves; 
Sic vos non vobis mellificatis apes; 
Sic vos non vobis fertis aratra boves. 
Not for yourselves your nests ye song-birds build ; 
Not for yourselves ye sheep your fleeces bear; 
Not for yourselves your hives ye bees have filled; 
Not for yourselves ye oxen draw the share. 

376 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Arrived here at 1 1 and after giving my name and 
other particulars am allowed to go to bed and write 
this while I am thawing. You will see from your 
map that Hannau is on the Main about two or three 
miles English before arriving here. Looked out and 
found we were on a perfect plain. Till then or there- 
abouts it was continual mountain and hill ; but the 
road excellent and at every ^ mile German a town or 

village, but I ought not to omit that at , but 

Gamp is stiff and tired. Will do something at Frank- 
fort ; about vineyards and the beautiful fille de mr. de 
poste 1 . 

Frankfort, January 18, 1810. Arrived at 10 
this morning. A continued plain ; a ridge about one 
English mile off on the right (scarcely visible by 
reason of the fog and mist which is eternal). Have 
not seen a clear American sky since left the United 
States ; (something like it in Sweden). Approaching 
the ridge as you approach the town, it is seen covered 
with vineyards and beautiful little houses. I took 
quarters as advised by Reichard, a F Empereur Romain 
{Romische keyser) z > and as usual, was shown into the 
third story ; the room, however, is decent and com- 
fortable ; those on the first floor (second story) are all 
occupied. Sent letters to Mons. de Bethmann, consul 

de Russie* and ; to Messrs. freres Bestina, 

neg t et banquiers*; to Messrs. Bansa et Jils, banquiers^ 



1 For fille du maitre de paste. Daughter of the postmaster. 

2 For a r Empereur Romain xum Rimischen Kaiser. Atthesign of the Roman Emperor. 

3 Russian Consul. 

4 To Bestina Brothers (Freres), merchants or brokers (negociants) and bankers. 



377 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

and cards to Chiron, Sarasin et Co., banquiers (my 
bankers ! !). To le Comte de Beuste beau pere de la belle 
Comtesse de Beuste a Weimar dont je vous ai parle sur 
le nom de 1 de Peystre, which is the allemande 1 pronunci- 
ation of de Beuste. M. le Comte de B. is Premier 
Ministre and in the absence of the Prince Primate, who 
is now at Paris, represents royalty here. To Mons. 

le Gen'l. Com. Sweyer. To Commissaire de 

Police*. These commissaires de police are fellows very 
formidable to strangers. Presently came in the valet 
de Mr. de Bethmann to request that I would dine 
with him to-day at I. This was doing things right — 
aV allemange* — but the hour surprised me. Went at 
i to dinner. A magnificent establishment. He is 
garcon s ; his mother (60) lives with him and does the 
honors of the house with great civility and real hos- 
pitality. There were about fifteen. A mother and 
daughter of the celebrated name of Euler 6 and nearly 
related to that distinguished man ; another young 
lady ; the French intendant of all the French provinces 
in Germany, a very intelligent, well-bred man ; Mr. 

, a young man much resembling Otto. Sat, 

but the two Eulers and the mother recommended to 
me to talk to her daughter, who, she said, spoke 
French much better than herself. I obeyed her and 



1 Count de Beuste, father-in-law (beau-fere) of the handsome Countess de Beuste at Weimar, 
whom I have mentioned to you under the name of, etc. 

2 The German pronunciation. 

3 Police Commissary. 

4 For a r allemande. After the German fashion. 

5 For^ar^on. Bachelor. 

6 Leonhard Euler (1707-1783) was a celebrated Swiss mathematician whose long life was 
divided about equally between Switzerland, Germany, and Russia. Although blind for many 
years he wrote a multitude of treatises on mathematics. Indeed, it is said that he wrote more 
than half of all the forty-six quarto volumes published by the St. Petersburg Academy between 
1727 and 1783. 



378 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr. 

was much amused. A sensible, amiable girl of 17. 
Home at 5. Immediately after my return home 
received under cover from Bethmann tickets of admis- 
sion to the Casino, to the Musee 1 , and to the Cabinet 
Liter aire*, three charming lounging places ; the first 
and last under the same roof; a most elegant estab- 
lishment ; the other opposite and appropriate to its 
name. The receptacle and place of exhibition of the 
productions of Frankfort artists. Mr. Bethmann 
called in the P. M. and we went to the Casino and Cab. 
Lit. where you meet persons of the first grade and no 
others. The nature of the establishment and how 
maintained must be explained verbally. You find 
here a library ; new publications ; all the gazettes and 
periodical publications of Europe ; maps, ditto. Can 
have any refreshment and any meal. To the Comedie 
Alemande*. The opera of " Camilla." Being perfectly 
acquainted with the story, having read the French 
translation while at Stockholm, of which you will find 
a note and a comment, " La Souterrain"*, I was much 
amused. The theatre is convenient and handsome 
without being splendid. The parts well performed ; 
the orchestra excellent ; one superior male voice and 
two good female ; the best a lady from Vienna who 
has married and left the stage, but loves the business 

and performs when she likes. She was , the 

nephew, and was quite at her ease en cavatlier 5 . 
Madame , formerly M'lle . Left the 

I For Muiee. Museum. 

4 For Cabinet Litirairc. Literary rooms (or quarters). 

J For La Comedie Allemandt. German Comedy, a theatre. 

4 For " Le Souterrain." " The Vault." 

5 For en cavalier. As a cavalier. See Glossary. 

379 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Comedie at the second act, being very cold and having 
an engagement proper to warm me. All this is writ- 
ten ; no, not all, but this and the preceding page with 
a personage in the room. My tea is ready, the good 
Liming' s Caravan tea, and other matters claim my 
attention. Bon soir. 

19. I have none but this great thick ugly paper 
which you hate so and it is now too late to get other, 
so this or nothing. Very pleasant night. Rose at 7. 
Received cards from le Gen. Comt. 1 Baron de Sweyer 
and le Comte de Beuste, who ought to have been 
first named. Card from Chiron & Sarasin. My 
landlord sent to know whether it would please his 
Excellency to have a larger room and on first floor. 
Yes, certainly ; but not to-day. The embarras 1 of 
moving to-morrow morning. You see how things go. 
Mr. Elsinger, " libraire tres celebre"*, sent a clerk with 
a civil message tendering his services, new publications, 
etc., this at the instigation of Bethmann. A man of 
grave appearance, d'un certain age 4 , dressed and pow- 
dered, presented himself. I supposed him to be mare- 
chale de la cour. s He undeceived me by saying that he 
understood I wanted a commissionaire d' affaire 6 . Then 
I concluded he was merely a broker and told him it 
was a mistake, that I had no sort of business to tran- 
sact. He bowed and said he had been sent to me by 
the landlord, and " Pray, sir, qulques especes d'affaires 



1 For le General Commandant. The commanding general, 

z Embarrassment. 

3 For libraire tres c'elebre. Very noted bookseller. 

4 An old French expression meaning an elderly man (age). 
J Court Marshal. 

6 For commit sionnaire d'affaires. Messenger, servant. 



38O 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

est de votre Etat!' Pour faire vos petites commissions 
de Monr. Apportez ses messages ; net t oyer ses habits et 
bottes" 1 . Mr. Kayser was received as valet de place*. 
To Bethmann's at 12; out. Saw Madame sa mere. 
To Casino ; read newspapers and saw and was intro- 
duced to many people. Staid till 3 to avoid the hour 
of dinner which is at 1 ; an hour at which it would be 
useless to me. Bethmann engages me to dine with 
his sister on Sunday and with himself on Monday. 
Young Mons. Bansa, who is nephew of de Streiber, 
came in this morning to offer civilities ; a very pleas- 
ant young man. At 6 to Casino, it being ladies' night. 
There were perhaps 100 people, about equal of each 
sex. The ladies who most caught my attention 

were la Princesse de ; her compagnone* la 

Baronne de , and M'lle la Baronne de 

Ende. There were many very handsome ; several 
handsome men there. " Sir, allow me to interrupt 
you to ask who is that beautiful creature with the 
black bonnet !" " That, sir, is my dauhgter ; shall I 
have the honor to present you ?" " Pray, Count, 
what fine, voluptuous woman was that you were just 
now talking with?" "Who, the very one with the 
bon. rouge*?" " Exactly her, a most striking figure." 
" That, sir is my wife." " Ha, ha! Venez ici ma chere. 
Mons. le C. B. desire vous connaitre" 5 . This was rather 
too much for one evening. Having two other 

1 " Pray, sir, some kinds of business belong to your station (quelques espices d'affaires sont 
de votre etat); to do Monsieur's little errands; to bring (apporter) his messages, clean his 
clothes and boots." 

2 Courier. 

3 For compagne. Female companion. 

4 For bonnet rouge. Red bonnet. 

5 " Ha, ha ! Come hither, my dear (chire); Colonel Burr wants to make your acquaintance " 
(desire vous connaitre). 



Private y o n r n a I of Aaron Burr . 

engagements was obliged to go at 7 to la Musee 1 , 
which is open every other Friday evening for exhibi- 
tion and declamation and, as I presumed, on subjects 
of science. On entering, a very comely and very 
young lady was on the rostrum declaiming with much 
grace and animation, at which made great eyes. It 
was an actress ; her manner was very pleasing. To 
the concert au maison rouge \ T: Mons. Elsinger, who 
introduced me to Mr. Gerning, author of " Travels in 

Italy " and Legations Rath" 1 ; also Madame , la 

eel. actrice de Vienne*, who sang. The music really 
fine, surtout s the horn which was played in a style I 

had never witnessed. T also Mr. , a man of 

fortune and consequence, with his mistress, a very 
pretty, modest-looking girl to whom everybody spoke 
with civility and respect as to other dames. Back 
again at y 2 p. 8 to the Casino, to which the principal 
inducement was d'Ende. There were perhaps a dozen 
card tables ; some backgammon, but all the most 
beautiful women were walking the floor in the suite of 
rooms, five or six, well lighted and perfectly well 
warmed and perfumed. " Prey, M'lle, is there any 
law forbidding a gentleman to walk with a lady ?" 
" Poh ! folie ! Comment pent y avoir un tel loi." 
" Mais done, nestce pas, contre les bienseances . ? " " 'Tout 
au contraireT " Alors cest permi que je marche avec 



1 The word musee, museum, has been degraded somewhat in most languages from its origi- 
nal Greek signification of a temple of the Muses, a place for study. Here it seems to possess 
somewhat, at least, of the better signification. 

2 To the Red House (a la, etc.). 

J For Legationirat. Councilor of Legation. 

4 For la c'elibre actrice, etc. The celebrated actress from Vienna. 

5 Especially. 



382 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

vous ?" " Certainement" 1 . So I did an hour. No 
other male walked with a lady. Le Baron d'Ende, 
who is charge d'affaires de la cour de Saxe-Gotha 2 , told 
me he had received a letter from the venerable Falk- 
enberg about one A. B. 3 , requesting his attentions, &c, 
&c. Very good in Mons. de F. Met also General 
Baron Sweyer, Commt A and le Comte de Beuste ; le 

Baron de , marechal de la Cour de , 

which is only a mile off, et mult. al. s Forgot to get 
paper and so you must receive another of this grossiere b . 

Home at 10. Le Baron de came in and gave 

me a very pressing invitation to visit him au chateau de n 

. Went in to see the table d'hote. Madame 

etsafille; tres gentille*. A French Colonel; German 
Major Hussard 9 . Nothing very remarkable, but told 
me they had expected me to dinner. 

20. Coucbe 1. Lev.']. Wrote General , 

commandant at Mayence, enclosing the letter of General 
St. Simon and requesting that he would enquire 
whether my passport had been sent from Paris. Note 
to Chiron & Sarasin about exchange of money. Sor. 
at 1 1 to Elsinger's to fouiller 10 in his library. Think 
to buy you a dictionary and something for Gampy to 
be sent to Hamburg. At 12 to Casino. At 2 to the 
Musee, which is open from 2 to 4 P. M. once a 

1 " Pshaw ! Nonsense ! How can there be such a law (une telle hi) V " But all the same 
it's contrary to decorum (les bicnseances), isn't it {jnest-ce fas)? " Quite the contrary." "Then 
it is allowable (c'est permis) for me to walk with you?" " Certainly." 

2 Ot the Court of Saxe-Gotha. 
J Aaron Burr. 

4 For Commandant. In command. 

; For et multi alii. And many others. 

6 For ce papier grassier. This coarse paper. 

7 At the castle of . 

8 Very pretty. 



9 A German major of the hussars. 
10 To rummage. 



383 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

fortnight to see the paintings. None but the works 
of Frankfort artists are admitted. The day being 
cold the company was less than usual. A few ladies. 
Madame Calvina and her sister ; M'lles are both 
handsome ; the former striking, a veuve 1 . M'lle 
Koch, an artiste 1 , is very pleasing, and many others 
handsome, but I have not yet a decided preference. 
Home at yi p- 4- After dinner walked the streets an 
hour. Some folly, not expensive. Tea at 7 and at 
yi p. 8 by appointment, Lisette. Sent card to-day to 
Baron d'Ende, which was immediately returned by 
visit in person. Mr. Sarasin called this afternoon and 
sat an hour. 

21. Couche 1. Rose 7. Tro. fa. y 2 gui. 3 Je 
vous dem. y 1,000 pardons*. At 10 to Mons. Legations 
Rath Gerning. Happening to mention les d'Imh. ; 
he avowed himself the lover de I'ainee 6 . He has some 
choice paintings and some very curious antiquities 
from the Herculaneum and other places in Italy. 
Among the things brasses and iron stamps with letters 
and names ; evidently for marking things, which 
ought to have led to the invention of printing. Some 
fine Etruscan vases. At 12 to d'Ende's. Le Baron 
out, but les dem s 1 received me ; sat x / 2 hour. Ma belle 
which is the cad. s has lost nothing at the second 
inspection ; pleasing, not dangerous like that infernal 

1 A widow. 

2 A female artist. 

3 For trop fatigue, too tired, or trop faible, too weak; % guinea. 

4 I beg a thousand pardons. ( Je vous demande mille pardons.) 

5 For d'lmhoffs. A family whose acquaintance Burr made in Sweden. 

6 For de V ainee. Of the elder or eldest. 

7 For les demoiselles. The girls. 

8 My beauty, who is the younger. (Cadette.) 

384 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Tinte 1 . Home. Note from Bethmann that he 
would call at i to take me to dinner. To Madame 
Hohlweg's. T: her daughter and child ; two sons ; 
la belle Viennienne^ actrice*, a modest, sensible, amiable 

woman, also pretty. T also Mons. , whom 

met at the concert au sail 1 . At 6 to Mr. Sarasin's ; 
having met him in the street to-day he asked me to 
dine ; being engaged was obliged to decline, so went 
this evening. A pleasant family party of a dozen. 
Came in also Madame Dumont et M'lle sa soeur de 
Mayence 4 ; M'lle belJ T~also a very sensible, sprightly, 
well-informed young lady, pas tro jeu 6 but pleasant. 
Tea, &c. Home at 9. Smoked and wrote your 
Journal. 

11. Couche 1. Lev. 8. At 1 1 took hack and 
went to Eisenbourg 7 to see le Baron de Wallschmitt, 
marechal de cour du Prince d' Eisenbourg 8 ; out, but sat 
y 2 hour with la baronne. A very pretty promenade. 
Home at 1 and at x / 2 p. 1 to dine with Bethmann. 

Y encore 9 Madame et sa fille ; Madame , 

whose mari 10 \s partner of Gogel 11 whom I saw at Goth- 
enburg, a very charming woman, speaking French and 
English ; l'Abbe , editeur du " Journal de 



1 Does he not refer to de Reizenstein, " the sorceress of Weimar"? Washer name Tinte 
or is there a reference to her character in the word Tinte, which means ink in German ! 

2 The beautiful actress from Vienna. 

3 Possibly for dans la (or a la) salle de spectacle. In the show room, in the theatre. 

4 Her sister from Mayence [on the Rhine]. 

5 For M'lle est belle. 

6 Yor fas trap jeune. None too young, ;'. «., rather old. 

7 Eisenberg is a city in the duchy of Saxe-Altenburg. From 1675 it was the capital of the 
duchy of Saxe-Eisenberg, which afterwards was merged into that of Gotha, and later into that 
of Saxe-Altenburg. 

8 Court Marshal of the Prince of Eisenberg. 

9 There again [were] , etc. 

10 Husband. 

11 Here the name Gogel is spelled correctly by Burr, but when in Sweden he spelled it Gogle. 



3*5 



Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

Frank" 1 . On trouve beaucoup de A. B. z After dinner 
much and bizarre about America 3 . Home at 5. At 
7 Mr. Fuchs, who had sent me a ticket for the ball, 
called with his carriage to take me. There were about 
100 ladies, a great many very handsome, and many 
dancing very well. Les deux souers d'Ende 4 were there. 
Princesse Marie et s beautiful ; two Mayerhoffs 
{baronnes or comtesses), very handsome ; a little 

, in blue, lovely ; M'lle le ainet 6 black, 

elegant, striking ; forms a resemblance stronger than 
I have ever seen to a person once dear to you and me ; 

Mons. , brother of the Elector of Hesse, yery 

civil ; le Prince de Hesse pere de Marie ; la Duchesse 

de , les chev. jaun. 1 But my attention to 

beauty was interrupted by a communication from 
young Bansa that he had answer from Mayence and 
that my passport had not arrived ! ! No answer from 
Meynier, which looks black, also. 

23. Certainly, Madame, you owe me great obli- 
gations for writing you at all, at this moment, lo ! the 

catastrophe of my hopes. Mr. called at 10 

this morning and with an air of mystery, with hesita- 
tion and unaffected embarrassment, said that he had a 
letter from his friend at Mayence advising not only 
that no passport for me had been received, but there 
were advices from Paris concerning me extremely 



1 Editor of the Frankfort " Journal " >. 

1 This may mean, Many Aaron Burr's are found, or else it stands for on trouve beaucoup a 
redire a A. B., which means, Much fault is found with Aaron Burr. Possibly he may mean 
that people find much in Aaron Burr. 

3 Much strange talk about America. 

4 The two D'Ende sisters. (Soeurs.) 

5 For est. Is. 

6 Probably for Vain'ee. The elder. 

7 For les chcveux jaunei. Yellow hair. 



386 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

unfavorable, and requesting I might be advised by no 
means to hazard my person within the territories of 
France. After thanking him for the communication, 
I told him I should go to-morrow to Mayence, which 
you know is now in France, and asked a line of intro- 
duction to his friend. He seemed to consider my 
resolution as madness and very delicately declined 
giving a letter from the danger which might ensue 
from any apparent communication with me. At 1 1 to 
Bethmann's. Saw him in his com. 1 house, a vast 
establishment, and after, his mother au chateau 1 . Some 
current conversation ; thence to Sarasin's to whom I 
told the story. He is not frightened and voluntarily 
offered a letter to his friend at Mayence. To Abbe 

, where sat Z A hour. Thence to Casino, where, 

among others, saw Mon. Conertagen Farci ; engaged 
to dine with him at the hotel where he lodges. Went 
at i. A very pretty sensible landlady au Cygne blanc 1 . 
He came home with me to smoke a segar in my 
room. Engaged to meet me at the theatre au paterre* 
and to show me a beautiful woman. At 6 au theatre*. 
The orchestra was the best I ever heard ; the scenery 
very fine. M'lle was there ; really beautiful, but 
engaged. Two gentlemen near me successively 
addressed me by name and in French. One volun- 
tarily served me as interpreter with M'lle, who spoke 
French imperfectly. Finally * * * * 6 her from her 

1 For Comptoir. Counting-house. 

2 At the castle or mansion. [Chateau.) 

j At the [sign of the] White Swan — the name of the hotel. 

4 For au parterre. In the pit. 

5 For au theatre. To the theatre. 

6 An undecipherable word, possibly intended for took or tricked. 

3^ 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

paramour and home to sup with me. But first to her 
lod. 1 Mons. attended me thither lest some mischief 
might befal 2 me. Jean't 5 returned home at 12, per- 
haps to fulfill an engagement. Really beautiful and 
extremely bizarre*. On entering my room this evening 
found on my table a very polite letter from General 
Meynier ; too polite. " No passport has been 
received nor any notice of the application," but noth- 
ing further. Continue in the determination to go to 
Mayence to know the state of things, but must stay 
to the masquerade ball to-morrow and to sup with 

, on invitation of Sarasin, who promises there 

shall be belles. s La bel. b Calvina was at theatre and 
witnessed all the maneuvres of bu. 7 ; probably 100 
others; so reputation ruined. Written from 12 to 1 
Tuesday night. 

24. At 10 cbez Sarasin; 12 a Casino. T : Le 
Comte de Rode, c. d. min. plen. de Prus. a Madrid et 
Lisbon 8 ; le jeune Comte de Westphalen 9 ; Alexander 
Goutard ; le Prince Frederic de Hesse. Pas din. 10 
Alexander G. invited me to pass the evening on Sun- 
day. At 4 Comte de Rode called with his carriage to 
take me to Prince Frederic's. Y sa fern, et six dam. 
d'hon. 11 Home and dressed for evening. At 6 le 

1 Lodgings. 

2 So in the MS. 

3 For Jeannette. 

4 Same meaning as in English. 

5 Beauties. 

6 For la belle. 

7 For Burr. 

8 For ci-devant Ministre Pl'enipotentiaire de Prune a Madrid et Lisbon. Formerly Minis- 
ter Plenipotentiary of Prussia at Madrid and Lisbon. 

9 For Westfalen, the German name of the province Westphalia, since 1815 a part of Prussia, 
but from 1807 to the Congress of Vienna in 1815 a kingdom. Napoleon formed it out of various 
German provinces and gave it to his brother Jerome. 

10 For Pas de diner. Or Je n'ai pas dine. No dinner. 

11 For T sa femme et six dames d honneur. His wife and six maids of honour were there. 

388 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Comte called again and took me to see Son Altesse la 

Duchesse de . T safl. divor. Bel. embon. yeu. 

not. 1 Home at 7 and soon after Mr. Sarasin called 
with his carriage and took me to pass evening and 

sup chez sa parente z Madame . T an assemble 

de 5<9 ? . Cards. Conversation. Afamille interressante 

de Vienne*. Madame nee Goutard ; j dem. et 

1 fils. Uainee* speaking fluently English. A very 
elegant supper and very cheerful. At 11 au bal 
masque 6 given at the theatre. Holbein's " Danse" 7 . 
Staid with Sarasin till 4 this morning (Thursday). 

Mayence, January 25, 1810. Lev. 9. Headache. 
Took no breakfast, but paid for one. Message from 

Elsinger that Madame Van claimed me as 

relation, she being the granddaughter of Daniel Burr 
of Harwich. Called on Elsinger to apologize for not 
seeing ma chere cousine* till my return. Home. Invi- 
tation from Bethmann to dine, which could not. 
Embarras 9 of packing up. A bill of 47 florins and 
17 kreu. 10 to my valet de place! At 12 took diligence; 
being the last, went outside and was nearly frozen. 
At the y 2 way house a civil young man gave me his 
place inside. A soldier's widow who had served 
fifteen campaigns and still handsome. Went over the 

1 For Y sa fille divorcee; belle; embonpoint; jeux noirs. Her divorced daughter; fine 
looking, plump, black eyes. 

2 At the house of his kinswoman, Madame . 

3 An assemblage (assembl'ee) of fifty. 

4 An interesting family from Vienna. 

5 For trois demoiselles et un fils, L'ainee (the eldest daughter) speaking, etc. 

6 For au bal masque. To the masquerade. 

7 Among the works of Hans Holbein the Younger is a series of designs, fifty-three in num- 
ber, for wood engraving, representing the Dance of Death (la danse des morts) — an allegorical 
representation of the power of death over all classes and conditions of men. 

8 For ma chere cousine. My dear feminine cousin. 

9 The trouble. 

10 For Kreuzer. One hundredth of a florin ; in Germany one thirtieth of a mark. 

3^ 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Rhine on traineau 1 drawn by two men with m. z Took 
qu'rs at the 3 Couronnes 1 . Card to General Meynier 
and to le Prefet 4 le Baron Jean Bon St. Andre. To 
Kayser, to whom had a letter from my very kind 
friend Sarasin. Mr. Kayser called immediately and 
invited me to go to the theater with him ; agreed. 
He called at 6 with his carriage ; met there his wife, 
a very beautiful woman who is a grandmother; her 
daughter ; a French gentleman and wife. The com- 
edy "Les Deux Iowtees" or "Les Joumees" 5 , and the 

afterpiece, ; both in French, amused me very 

much; laughed a great deal. Home at 10. A 
rendz. with ma com. de Vay. 6 , but failed. 

16. At 10 went by appointment to see General 
Mayence, un brave franc soldaf; unfortunately just 
now gouteux 8 . Thence to the Prefet le celebre Jean 
Bon St. Andre 9 , now Baron, &c. His appearance 
justifies the character we had had of him. Met acci- 
dentally a young man of very intelligent countenance; 
exchanged looks and made acquaintance, but not a 
word said. The Prefet cannot give me a passport for 
Paris; must write and get one from the Minister of 
Police at Paris. About an hour afterwards received a 



1 For tra'ineau. Sledge. 

2 It is not plain what the letter m stands for. 

j Took quarters at the Three Crowns (aux Trois Couronnes), 

4 The Prefect. 

; This reference is obscure. Does Burr mean '■'■Les Deux Yonn'ees" " The Two Women of 
Yonne " (a department of France) ! Possibly it should be '■'■Les Deux Dionees." In this case 
it might mean Venus the goddess of pleasure and Diana the chaste, for the name Dion'ee is 
applied to both of these divinities. Hence the title might refer to two women possessing these 
opposite characters. The title '■'■Les Journies" means "The Days." 

6 Probably for a rendex-vous with ma Comtesse de Vay . A rendezvous with my 

Countess de Vay . 

7 Burr may mean here either a brave, sincere soldier, or a brave French soldier. In the 
latter case franc would stand for fran^ais and should follow the noun. 

8 For goutteux. Gouty. 

9 For le celebre Jean Bon Saint Andre. The celebrated, etc. 



39° 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

note from the young man requesting permission to 
call and introduce himself. It seems that in order to 
discover my lodgings he had gone to the guard who 
watch the gate and enquired of the officer. He 
dined with me at the hotel lest I might want inter- 
preter or countenance. Presently my indefatigable 
friend brought a girl ; one made for the purpose, 
speaking French and German ; a fine animated, intel- 
ligent countenance ; pretty and well made. All was 
instantly arranged. — Never take the advice of one 
who is agitated or alarmed. — To the Pre/el's for my 
passport ; bureau} shut. To the Secretary ; he had 
not the passport. I might call at the bureau in the 
morning, but told me that I should not have to come 
to Mayence unless I meant to stay there till the answer 
should be received from Paris and that I must remain 
in Mayence under surveillance de la ■police 2 '. Now, this 
will not be very convenient for I am engaged to-mor- 
row evening at Goutard's (not Sunday as supposed), 
and to dine on Sunday at Mons. de B's. To a coffee- 
house; took coffee and played chess, while the young 
man was preparing for me. Evening at d'P.'s. T: 
Two ladies and three gents. Chess. Was beaten by 
the lady. Herr Von Borg, de Soede 1 . But had 
scarcely left the door of my friend when I was stopped 
by two soldiers. After some parley, understood from 
them that it was not permitted to walk the streets at 
that hour without a lamp and that I must go with 



1 Office. 

z Supervision of the police. 

1 Mr. Von Borg, of Sweden (la Suede). 



39 1 



Private J o u r n a I of Aaron Burr . 

them to the guard-house. There are various ways of 
getting along in this world. After some explanations, 
they agreed to eschort 1 me to my lodgings. Home at 
j4 p. 1 1 and am now going to couche. That matter 
of the passport sticks in my throat. There is no 
possibility of going one mile without a passport. 

27. Rose 8. Waited till 10 very impatiently 
for P., who had promised to call on me very early. 
Then sent to him to know whether he would be at 
home if I should call. Yes. Called and passed ^ 
hour. Thence to Prefers. Received in the most 
polite and amiable manner ; compliments passed and 
returned. I might stay at Mayence or go to Frank- 
fort, or wherever I pleased, save the interior of 
France. Returned my passport. Handed him the 
other which I had addressed to him, requesting that 
he would apply for me to the Minister of Police at 
Paris. All right. Thence to Mr. Kayser's ; saw 
him and his bel. fem? To a libraire 1 , where bought 
Gray's poems for la jo/. Fiennienne 4 (whose name I will 
try to get for you). To P.'s. ; fem. y deux char. garc'sJ 
Auberge 6 ; paid bill, 7 fl. 16 gro. and 6 liv. 7 to mon 
valet de place. The moment you arrive at any town 
if to stay six hours you are saddled with a valet de 
place, whose pay per day is from 3 liv. to a dollar. 
Wrote note of conge to P. Crossed the Rhine en pet. 



1 So in the MS. 

2 For belle femme. 

3 Bookseller. 

4 For lajolie Viennienne. The pretty lady from Vienna. 

5 Wife and two charming boys. (Charmants gar^ons.) 

6 Inn. 

7 For livres. The livre was 20 sous or a franc. 



39* 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr. 

traineau 1 and got to the diligence office just at 12, the 
hour of setting off. Got No. 9, being the last place 
and again outside. Met again la guerre z . Exceed- 
ingly cold and suffered much. Arrived at Frankfort 
at 5. Went first to Sarasin's to hear the news and 
inquire for private lodgings, as I must necessarily be 
here at least a week. As I got to the Rom. kayser* 
eight or ten carriages drew up. It was the c. a 7 . 4 King 
of Sweden, Gustavus IV., with his family and attend- 
ants. My room on first floor was taken, of which I 
was very glad, for I got one as good on second floor 
for y 2 the price. Dressed and at ^ p. 7 to A. Gou- 
tard's. It was a mistake ; that little huzzy the Vert V 
led me to the error. The ball to-night is at another 
Goutard's with whom have no acquaintance. Very 
glad of it, for I was but half thawed and had much to 
do, i. <?., to think what and how and where in case I 
am excluded from France, of which there seems little 
room to doubt. This is probably the work of the 
United States minister, for certainly I have claims to 
protection if not to hospitality from France, and then 
I had hoped to do the Emperor and myself so much 
good. 

28. Couche 1. Rose 8. At 10 to Sarasin; 
went with his young man to look at rooms, but could 
not be suited. Determined, however, to take the 



1 For en petit traineau. On [a] small sledge. 

2 La guerre means war. Possibly Burr refers to the hard time he had outside in the cold, 
somewhat as we say, " I had a regular siege of it." Or he may mean that be again met the 
soldier's widow, mentioned on page 389. 

3 For Gasthaus x,um Rimischen Kaiser. The Roman Emperor Hotel. 

4 For ci-devant. Heretofore, former. 

5 For la Viennienne. The lady of Vienna. 

393 



Private Journal of A ar o n Burr . 

worst of them rather than endure longer to the 
expense of this hotel and my v. de pi. 1 At i to 
Casino ; saw no acquaintance who chose to recognize 
me. Read the papers and off. Pa. din z . Called this 
morning on le Comte de R., who received me very 
kindly and said many things for which I am greatly 
obliged to him. Sat over com. of wa. and m * *. 3 
till 7 P. M. Dressed and went to Goutard's. An 
immense party of all that is titled and much untitled 
good matter ; perhaps sixty dames. The young ones 
are in a room by themselves ; a very bad arrangement. 
Perceived a wonderful coldness and after making half 
a dozen bows came off. My host, however, was most 
polite and attentive. To Casino, where read news- 
papers an hour. Home x / 2 p- 9- Tea a la Gamp 4 . 
Ruminating on the statu quo s till i, and now bon soir. 
29. Rose y 2 p. 8. At 10 to Sarasin's to see 
about lodgings ; looked at several, but a new difficulty 
occurs ; no burger** can receive a stranger in his house 
without the license of the police. S. recommends that 
I call on Comte de Beuste for this purpose, which I 
shall do to-morrow. At 1 1 Comte de Beuste gave 
me some clue to the coldness. " I thank you very 
much." Resolved to wait here the result of my appli- 
cation for passport. To Casino at 1. Walked a mile 
out of town. Still very cold. Rene, on ret.; 1 fl.; 



I For valet de place. 

1 For Pas de diner, or Je n ai pas dine. No dinner. 

3 Probably for Sat over a composition (or compound) of water and * * * *. The unde- 
cipherable word may be met for miel, honey ; or milk. 

4 After Gamp's fashion. 

5 For status quo or status in quo. Latin. The state in which anything is already. 

6 For Burger. Citizen, burgher. 

394 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

pa. bo. 1 Home at 3. Ruminate till 8, then to the 
Casino ball, my good friend S. having furnished me 
with a ticket. T about thirty ladies, noble, not one 
bourgeoise % . The three Swedish officers who attend 
Gustavus IV. all claimed my acquaintance and was 
amused to talk over Sweden. A few other acquaint- 
ances. (Mr. Bethmann sent his dom. this evening to 
offer me ticket for the bal. 1 but I was provided.) 
Home at 1 1. Same symptoms this evening as before. 
Ruminating till 1. 

30. Couche 1. Rose 8. I sleep always but a 
single nap and without dreaming ; have not had a 
dream in six months. Walked round with my valet 
de place to look at rooms. Think I shall fix on the 
bookbinder's. To Comte de Beuste. He had gone 
to Mayence for a week. To Sarasin to know what was 
to be done. He advised me that as soon as I had 
fixed on my lodgings, for they must be designated, he 
would apply to the police for me. Received letter 
from my cousin John Carnad de Ron giving a history 
of his branch of the family of Burr and inviting 
invitation on the part of his sister, Madame Van 

, to call and take chocolate with her some 

morning. Response and proposed to call on Madame 
to-morrow at 11. Called on C. de R., who is to leave 
town to-morrow. Gave me friendly invitation to 
come and pass a day with him. Mr. Bethmann's 
dom. to invite me to sup to-night after the play is 



1 For Rencontre on returning; I florin; pas bon (or bonne). A rencounter, etc. Not good. 

2 Woman of the middle or shop-keeping class. 

3 For bal masque. Masquerade. 

395 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr. 

over. Ruminated till 8, then to the Casino. At 9 
(play over) to Bethmann's. T: The three Swedish 

officers; Madame Euler; Madame , her daugher 

and son-in-law ; no others. Very good supper and 
wine. Home at 1 1. 

31. Hail me in my new lodgings in a little back- 
yard ! The access is a perfect labyrinth. Two neat 
small rooms and a lumber room, pretty furnished for 
3 florins per week, about i 1 /^ dollars. Did you ever 
hear anything so bon march} 1 ? Rose 9, heavy, heavy, 
headache! No breakfast. At 11 to ma cousine 1 

Madame Von . T: Madame de Ron and 

M'lle Wickelhausen, daughter of a niece of Madame 
V.; both pretty and speaking fluently French. Swal- 
lowed a dish of chocolate. Might as well have 
swallowed arsenic. At 1 to Sarasin. Had fixed on the 
bookbinder's; the mistress, the maid, and the boy being 
all cheerful, good-natured faces. He, S., sent to the 
police and the license was granted without hesitation. 
Paid my bill at Rom. Kays\ 16 florins 20 gro.; 1 due. 4 
to madg. and garc., s 10 florins to my v. d. p. 6 and at 5 
was installed in my new quarters. I am really more 
than content. Madame and all the household have 
that promptness to oblige that forestalls one's wishes. 
The mistress and servants speak French enough for my 
purposes. Madame says she has a charming friend who 
speaks English perfectly whom she will bring to see me. 



I For a bon marchi. Cheap. 

z My feminine cousin. 

3 For Gaithaus x.um Rimischen Kaiser. 

4 For ducat. A ducat was worth nearly 2 dollars in Germany. 

5 For Madchen and gart^on. Servant girl and waiter. 

6 For valet de place. 



396 



Private journal of Aaron Burr. 

My new style will put me out of society, but in the first 
place, Madame, that I am already, and in the second 
my ducats will be of more use to me than their din- 
ners. S. and C. D. R. approve the arrangement. I 
have had my tea in my own fashion and have not felt 
so much at home in many months, except at Liining's. 
The juice of four lemons carried off my headache, the 
infernal chocolate notwithstanding ; for this remedy, 
thank you. 

Frankfort, February i, 1810. Mr. Bansa's clerk 
came in before I was out of bed this morning with a 
letter from M. de Streiber, enclosing one of introduc- 
tion for Bethmann. Sent it with a note, and also E. 
B.'s letter for perusal. At 1 1 to Mr. de Rode. Sat 
half an hour ; he was packing up to return to his 
chateau, about five leagues from town ; a magnificent 
establishment, as is said. Home. Mr. Sarasin came 
in, and after, young Bansa. To Casino at 1, where 
an hour reading newspapers. Home at 1. Bro. cas. 1 
for din. The French louis which I bought at Ham- 
burg are all right. A loss of 3 florins on each. For- 
tunately have but three left. At 3 to Sarasin's. Much 
confab ; naught new. This P. M., my hostess, who 
is always thinking of something to oblige me, brought 
in Madame , a sweat 2 , sprightly, comely Eng- 
lish woman, who staid and took tea with me. Projects 
for the amusement of Kam. 3 and Gamp advance. 



1 Probably for Brot und Kate. Bread and cheese. 

2 So in the MS. 

J This word is somewhat illegible in the MS. The reference is obscure. Kam. might be 
an abbreviation of the German Kamerad. Comrade. 



397 



Private jf o ur n a I of Aaron Burr. 

Ruminating all the evening. A new essay to change 
the state of affairs will be made to-morrow. Invita- 
tion from Bethmann for Tuesday evening, February 

6, to sup, &c. Birthday of . 

2. My rooms are so small and the ceilings so 
low, that when the stove is heated I am suffocated, the 
hot air being above ; while my head is in an oven, my 
feet are in an ice-house. Got up this morning later 
than usual, stupid, and choaked 1 with a cold. At \i 
to le ministre z Hedouville. He was engaged, but 
appointed i o'clock. To Casino to pass the interval 
reading newspapers. Cut all my friends to be before- 
hand. At i to the Ministre, an amiable, intelligent, 
well-bred man. Received my communication with 
courtesy and engaged to transmit it forthwith to Paris. 
A reply cannot be expected within twelve days. Have 
a great mind to go to Weimar. Pa. din? At 3 to 
Elsinger, le libraire. He has caught the infection. 
Passed an hour looking over books, but bought 
nothing. I wish to send you so many that it will end 
in sending none. Yes, a good French dictionary, if 
one there be, I will send. Tea at 6, and at 7 came in 
Sarasin to take me to the museum. The music very 
fine. Two airs by the enchanting voice of Schonberg. 
A handsome young man introduced himself to me as 
from Hanover, and bearing a civil message to me from 
the beautiful M'lle Karsaboom ; not quite so spelled, 
however. This is ladies' night at Casino, but did not 



I So in the MS. 
1 The Minister. 
J For Pas de diner. 



39* 



Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

go. Home j4 p- 8. Ma hotesse 1 invited me to par- 
take of her supper ; agreed. The party was Madame, 
her seamstress, another woman, and one of the jour- 
neymen. Invitation to-day from Bethmann to dine 
on Sunday. Doubting whether I will not go to de 
Rode's on Sunday. 

3. Rose very late. The maid makes my fire, 
that is, heats my room at 7, but I get stupified by the 
heat ; for this I see no remedy, unless I could muster 
force enough to get up before any heat was introduced. 
But there is no exigence requiring this effort. After 
the answer from Paris, which may be expected on 
Tuesday, the case will be altered, whatever may be the 
tenor of that answer. At 12 to Casino. Met at the 
door Mons. de Wickelhausen, who, having married 
the niece of Madame Vandervelten, has thus become 
my cousin. He talked to me y 2 hour about family 
matters, &c. Read newspapers an hour. Home an 
hour ; then to the Musee, this being the day of exhi- 
bition. T : Sarasin and family ; mon aimable cousin^ 
mats pa beaucoup de monde % . Was amused with the 
pictures and the visitors. Among the paintings was a 
Cleopatra ; as usual, blonde et grande, though in fact, 
she was petite et brune 1 . Mon cousin proposed to me 
twenty different parties and promenades, all of which 
I declined. At length one to which I acceded. It 
was very kind and very hospitable, but failed in the 
result, the parties not found. Home at 5. Dressed 



1 For ma hotesse. My hostess. 

2 My amiable [male] cousin, but not (fas) many people. 

3 Blonde and tall, though, in fact, she was short and dark. 



399 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

and waited for Sarasin, who came at 7. To his 
brother's, Mons. Lars, a name of adoption (these 
adoptions are always attended with fortune), he being 
born Sarasin. There was a very handsome and gay 
party. Mons. and Madame Schonberg ; she sang for 
us; la fam. Venetienne 1 ; M. Chaumont et souer fern. 

de ; Madame , belle et superb e femme, 

soeur de ces deux de Mayence 2 , whom I met at Sarasin's; 
la jolie pit. Cloison 3 , or something thereabouts, who 
pleased me so much at the Casino ball on Monday of 
last week. La blue. Not princesse ni noble mais merite 
d'etre ; est par nature*. Une fern, interressante de 

Konigsberg 5 , now Madame . Les dem. Sarasin, 

bel. bru. 6 We had a great deal of charming music. 
La Prussienne sings delightfully ; so Cloison mere so 
pet. guitarre 1 . A suite of four rooms well lighted. 
The supper elegant and the guests extremely gay. 
Somehow thought more of Mary Ann* than of all the 
present. Home at 1. My stove cold as ice. Took 
one hour to make fire, get warmed, and smoke my 
pipe. Now at y 2 p. 2 Sunday morning and I shall 
smoke another pipe before couche. 

Frankfort, S. M., Februarys 1810. I have not 

1 This is probably a slip of Burr's pen. He undoubtedly means la fameuse Vienniennc, the 
celebrated lady from Vienna, instead of V'eniticnne, the lady from Venice, as the reader will 
soon see. 

2 For et soeur,femme de, etc. And sister, wife of . Madame , a handsome, 

superb woman, sister of those two of Mayence. 

3 For la jolie petite Cloison. The pretty little Cloison. 

4 For la fille mise en blue. (Bleu.) Not princesse ni noble mais merite de V'etre ; elle 
Vest par nature. The girl in blue ; neither a princess nor a noble, but she deserves to be ; is so 
by nature. 

5 For une femme interessante de Konigsberg. An interesting woman of Konigsberg. 

6 For les demoiselles Sarasin, belles, brunettes. The Sarasin girls, fine-looking brunettes. 

7 The Prussian lady sings delightfully; so the mother (mire) Cloison; so la petite 
fille touche tris bien la guitare. So the little maid plays the guitar delightfully. 

8 Mary Ann must be a pet name given by Burr to his daughter. Under date of July 24, 
1809, he writes : " Ma belle Mary Ann (only think, your favorite name "). 

4OO 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

before put S. M. which means sur Mein 1 , to distin- 
guish it from Frankfort, S. O., {sur Oder). Rose late. 
Did nothing till I ; then to dine with Bethmann. T: 
La mere et deux filles, Brevilliere ; la fam. Viennienne 1 , 
of which I have so often spoken ; M'lle D. M. is one 
of the finest women I meet ; Mons. de Brevilliere, 
brother of the deceased father ; la mere was Goutard. 
Euler mere et fils. 1 In all we were twenty-one at table. 
The dinner handsome, but the rapidity with which 
things were done is inconvenient and unsocial ; you 
would think we were eating for wagers, such is the 
velocity with which the courses are served. The 
moment the last course has gone round (everything is 
handed round by the servant), all rise and go off to 
the drawing-room, where coffee is served. A sprightly 
young Genevoise 4 merchant pursued me a great deal, 
and was very civil. Had also, to-day, an invitation to 

dine cbez Madame souer de Sarasin ; but Beth- 

mann's was first. Off at 5, and to Madame , 

who lives under the same roof with her brother, where 
passed an hour very pleasantly. Home at 7. Ma 
hostesse invited me to her party, i. <?., the English 
woman ; another English woman, native of Pennsyl- 
vania, where played lottery till 9. Had my tea. 
Wrote a long letter about Charles Loss 5 and family, 
to be transmitted to the parents of Mr. and Mrs. 
Loss, who live seventy or eighty miles hence. Wrote 



1 On the Main, the river on which Frankfort is situated. 

2 For la fameuse Viennicnne. The celebrated Vienna lady. 

3 Mrs. Euler and son. 

4 For Genevois, Genevese. 

; Under date of December 31, 1S09, Burr spoke of Saxony as being Chas. Loss's kingdom. 



4OI 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

also to General Meynier, and to Dr. Perkins at May- 
ence, requesting each of them to inform me if there 
was any news about my passports. 

5. Couche 3. Rose 8. At 9 to Sarasin's with 
my letters. Home to breakfast ; then to work to 
assort papers, &c., and prepare for locomotion, which 
I feel will soon become necessary. But whether to 
Paris, or to prison, or to Russia, or to the United 
States, is known yonder above, but they won't tell 
Gamp. Wickelhausen promised to call between 4 and 
5 to go al chas. 1 but did not. At 5 sor. {Pa. di. z ). 
Rene. Dougan. Jo.jeu.amin. Tre. cont.; 4ft. 5 Home 
at 6. Wickelhausen had called during my absence. 
Tea. Laid on the canopy to smoke my pipe and 
slept an hour. At 9 to the Casino ball au Maison 
Rouge\ Sarasin having sent me a ticket. T : The 
Endes : M'lle Brevilliere, who introduced to me her 
cousin, Dr. Schlosser, LL.D. I was just wishing to 
know some lawyer. Ma. pet. 6 Ende looked very well; 
Cloison not there. The assemble was very full and 
very brilliant. There seems to be a sort of tacit accord 
among the bourgeoises to go only every other week. 
Le Baron d'Ende, Mr. de B., and the Sarasin family 
were my principal associates. Off at yi p- n. Yes, 
there was also that fine, imposing form and counte- 
nance, M'lle de , who resembles Emilie de 



1 Probably for a la chaise. To go hunting. 

2 For Pas de diner. 

3 For Rencontre. Dougan, jolie, jeune, amincie. Tres content; 4 florins. A rencounter; 
[byname] Dougan; pretty, young, thin. Very well satisfied, etc. (Amin. may stand for the 
noun amincissement, thinness, just as Burr uses the noun embonpoint, plumpness.) 

4 For canape. Couch. 

5 For a la Maison Rouge. At the Red Mansion. 

6 For ma petite. My little. 

402 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Visme. " Suspense," says Swift, " is the life of a 
spider." 

6. Jour menir -pour nous aut.\ because two and 
two make four ; so that, according to some logicians, 
twice 27 make 54, and so on ad inf. \ x Sat up till 3, 
smoking and assorting scraps. Rose about 10. To 
Casino at 1. T : Bethmann, and the m.g.fr.\ resem- 
bling Gallatin, but not the front nor the stable nose. 
An amiable phiz. G. always meet monde* there ; but 
go off about 1, that being the unusual hour of dining. 
Gamp is more sought and spoke to these some days 
past ; pas tout a fait le monr ter. s Bethmann, who 
wrote to Paris about ten days ago, has, as he says, no 
answer. Perhaps they care nothing, think nothing 
about us. The moment the Rhine is open, will be 
off, if suffered. Saw from the Casino windows two 
regiments French cavalry, on march to France. The 
horses and men small, but the men handsome, 
sprightly youths. Did not see a horse that would 
have sold at Philadelphia for 100 dollars. Much 
talking among the men. Swords not very long ; 
nearly straight ; light. Written at 3 P. M. You 
will have a word more on my return from Bethmann's 
to-night. Got home from Bethmann's at x / 2 p. 11. 
It was a very handsome party of about thirty. The 



1 This is an interesting riddle. The French abbreviations stand for Jour memorable four 
nous autres. Day memorable for us folks. The reader will note that the date in the Journal is 
February 6, 1810. Burr was born February 6, 1756, being therefore 54 years old. Theodosia 
was born June 20, 1783, and was therefore 27. So the riddle " twice 27 make 54 " becomes clear. 
Of course this day is memorable to both. 

2 For Latin ad infinitum. To infinity. 

3 Probably for monsieur grand fran^ais. Tall French gentleman. 

4 People. 

5 For il nest fas tout a fait le monsieur terrible. Literally, he is not entirely the terrible 
man ! 

403 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

supper com. il faut\ Conversation, cards, billiards, 
music, filled the interval before supper, which was 
served about y 2 p. 10. The same rapidity as at din- 
ner. The company retired about an hour after 
supper. The party was wholly of citizens, except 
General Sweyer, two young French officers, and a 
Russian envoy. Many of my particular acquaintance 
of both sexes were there. Was most occupied with 

Madame , who, to many agreements 1 , adds that 

of speaking English. She very wickedly led me into 
dilemma by exciting remarks on her brother and his 
ux. It happened that she was a beautiful woman, and 
that I pronounced very favorable on both. The 
evening passed off very well. Mr. Bethmann has no 
news for me, but expects a messenger to-night. 
To-morrow, too, I shall have answers to my letters to 
P. and M. at Mayence to-morrow night. 

7. Couche 3. Lev. 8. At 10 to Bethmann's for 
news. He had none. Pour me distraire 7 ", walked an 
hour to find la Doug. 4 , but could not find the place. 
Home and got my bill, the week having expired. 
Void les details*, and then you will know how I live : 

Florins. Kreutzers. 

Rooms and furniture 3 00 

Bread o 35 

I lb. cheese o 28 

1 lb. butter o 16 

1 bottle wine o 36 

1 lb. sugar 2 04 

Wood 2 00 

8 59 

1 For comme il faut. As it should be. 

2 For agr'ements. Accomplishments. Possibly Burr meant this as an English word. 
1 In order to entertain myself. 

4 For la Dougan. The girl mentioned on page 402. 

5 Here are the details (details). 

4O4 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr. 

Eight florins and 59 kreutzers is about 4 dollars. 
Not extravagant. But then the contingencies : 

Florins. Kreutzers. 

A decanter broken by the stove heat 1 12 

Washing 1 2 

To the servants 2 30 

To servants when dining or sup- 
ping abroad 4 00 

Muj. 1 6 00 

13 44 

8 59 

22 43 

Twenty-two florins and 43 kreutzers is about 8*/£ 
dollars. At the hotel for one week it cost me 82 
florins, and I had not half the comfort. Now for the 
Casino to read the news, of which I am told there is 
much by this mail regarding the interior. The 
moment of entering the Casino a gentleman took me 

aside ; told me he was secretary of Mr. ; that 

his Excellency was ready to give me a passport when 
I should please, and would be glad to see me at 1 1 
to-morrow. This was what I least expected to meet 
at Casino, or at all through that channel. At ^ p. 2 
to see our cousins, Madame Vandervelten & Co. 
Found there a pleasant little party. Three pretty 
girls, all cousins, sitting round a large table drinking 
coffee. It is a very respectable old lady. Her hus- 
band a comte, but she does not assume the title. At 
4 to Sarasin's to counsel. Always frank and kind. 
Home at 5. Tea at 7. Sarasin came in and sat y 2 

I For muse. See Glossary. 

4O5 



Private 'Journal of A ar o n Burr . 

hour. Agreed to go to the bal masque. Said that 
there will be many honetes gens 1 . 

i A. M. Wednesday night. Have returned 
early from the ball. It was very full, and much more 
brilliant than the first. It seems that the honetes gens 
[dames) are resolved not to be chassed' from their 
favorite amusement by the demireps 1 . The latter were, 
however, the great majority. For want of the 
language I was a mere spectator. I conceive that it 
may be made very charming. My head, however, is 
full of other things. That message, and the channel 
through which it comes ! but to-morrow (to-day, 
being near i in the morning), will develop. Je 
t'embrasse 4 . 

12. Reichard 5 and maps being locked up, and 
the conducteur refusing me access to them till we reach 
Metz, which will be to-morrow P. M., can give you 
no account of my route, but we are 44 lieue de poste 6 
from Mayence, about no English miles. But, as you 
have heard nothing from me since Wednesday [the 
7th], it is necessary to go back. On Thursday paid 
visit of conge to Bethmann's, to Baron d'Ende, to 
Gerning. Saw not one of them. Mr. B. was in his 
comtoir 1 and sent message by the servant asking me to 
dine to-morrow (Friday), which declined, having 
resolved to leave town. Sat a few minutes with 



1 For honn'etes gens. Virtuous, genteel people. 

2 Another French verb, chasser, to expel, anglicized by Burr; hence, driven out. 

3 See Glossary. 

4 I embrace thee. 

5 Burr refers to Reichard's guide-book for travelers entitled " Passagier auf dtr Reise in 
Deutschland." " The Traveler Journeying in Germany." 

6 For lieues de poste. Post leagues. A lieue was about two and a half English miles. 

7 For omptoir. Counting-house. 



4O6 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Madame sa mere. Dined with Sarasin enfamille at y 2 p. 
i. Thence to Madame Vandervelten, our cousin. T 
y 2 hour. Yesterday sent for her inspection the picture, 
of which many pretty things were said. Sent also the 
miniature of Caroline as of a niece. Home at y 2 p. 
4, but not finding disposition to go to work, went out 
to see Doug.; out, but consoled self with la maitr. de 
mais. Encore not being satisfactory, roved an hour. 
T ca mou. p. Gamp fully; ij. U. Home at 9 quite 
tranquil. 'Tis the sole rem. in such cases 1 . I forgot 
to say that before dinner I went to see if the Com. 
de R. had returned to town. He had just arrived. 
We met like old affectionate friends. He was 
engaged to dine with Com. de Beuste, to cele- 
brate the birthday of the Prince Primate, and so 
we arranged an interview at 10 at his house. At 10 
went y and passed nearly two hours. Much infor- 
mation and renseignments 1 about Paris. Talked to 
him of X, in which he entered warmly and predicted 
success. Home at 12 and worked like a beaver till 3. 
Made a long list of letters to be written before leaving 
Frankfort ; of which I wrote not one. Did nothing 
but what had a direct reference to my object. Oh, if 
they will only hear me, and Hedouville says they will. 
Rose at 7 Friday morning. Worked hard, but did 
not get through the assorting, transcribing addresses, 



1 Went out to see Dougan ; out, but consoled self with the mistress of the house (la 
maitresse de la maison). [It] still not being satisfactory, roved an hour. That move (ce 
mouvement [-la]) paid (or pleased) Gamp fully; two pretty maids (deux jolies mademoiselles or 
jungfrus). Home at 9 quite tranquil. 'Tis the sole remedy in such cases. (In Davis's abridged 
reprint of the Journal, see Introduction for the explanation, all this is translated " and walked 
half an hour.") 

2 Much information and intelligence (or inquiries). 

4O7 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

&c. Had visit of conge from Sarasin, Fuchs, his son- 
in-law, and from Com. de R.; no others. Got to the 
stage office at 12, and, for the first time, got inside. 
Most alarming account of the rigid visitation at Cas- 
sel 1 (opposite Mayence) and at Mayence. At Cassel 
the search was very slight ; and at Mayence, where I 
supposed my pockets would befoui/Ied 1 , met a good- 
natured looking fellow, who asked me where I would 
lodge. " Au trois Couronnes" 1 . " Allez y et votre 
baggage vous suivra en cinque minutes"*. In effect, in 
five minutes my baggage came, not having been 
opened and no douceur'' paid. Went direct to the 
Prefers to get my passport vised 6 . He was out, and 
would not be home till 10. Gave a livre to the ser- 
vant to deliver him a message, requesting that he 
would vise my passport to-night. Called and left card 
at Kayser's. Then home. The diligence was to go 
at 6 next morning. Little chance of seeing the Pre- 
fet to-night, and so went off to hunt his secretary. 
He received me civilly, and agreed to do the business, 
which he was half an hour doing, while I played with 
his two beautiful children. At 10 came in D. and sat 
an hour. Gave me memorandum of a lady who might 
be an agreeable acquaintance. Couche 2, having spent 
two hours in assorting, &c, which got through to my 
satisfaction. Was called at 6. Went to take place in 
the diligence. The inside full ; four dames ; but as 

1 Kastel, a town of a few thousand, is meant. 

2 Another French verb,/oui'//«r, to rummage, anglicized by Burr. Searched. 

3 For aux Trois Couronnes. At the Three Crowns. 

4 Go thither (Alhx.-}) and your baggage {bagage) will follow you in five {cinq) minutes. 

5 Tip. 

6 A French-English verb now used in English, from French viser, to inspect. To vise a 
passport is to inspect it and endorse it officially. 

4O8 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

two were to be received eight leagues on our way, got 
the privilege of riding inside so far. The two dames 
were an officer's wife, very pretty, and a soldier's wife. 
The two we took in were a lady and a pretty daughter. 
Took my station outside, with a young man of very 
decent appearance, who was going as conscript to join 
the army. He says that a substitute costs ioo louis 1 , 
and if he deserts the principal must replace him. Got 
to our quarters at 10, and to bed at 12. Called up at 
4 this morning, and arrived here at 6. Ordered a 
room and fire, with which all this is written at 12 
o'clock. Seven leagues back is the beautiful little 

town of on the Saar, formerly the residence of 

the Prince of Nassau. His elegant palace being man- 
festly an aristocratical structure, was burned by the 
democrats 2 when they carried war here early in the 
Revolution. The palace was then a hospital, and 
there being no time to remove the patients, they were 
also burnt. The church (one of them) is a very 
elegant little thing. Just t'other side of this town saw 
along the banks of the Saar broad fields of the stubble 
or stalks of Indian corn, the first I have seen since 
leaving the United States, but have not yet seen on 
this side the Rhine a single vineyard. They say 
it is too cold, though on the other side, even in 
the neighborhood of Fulda, nearly one hundred 
miles north of this, all the hills were covered with 
vines. No interest or amusement of any sort with the 
dames. Am supposed a Swede. All the country I 

1 The louis was a French gold coin worth about 4 dollars. 

2 Meaning Jacobins i 

4O9 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

have passed through since crossing the Rhine till 
within a league of this place where I now write was 
formerly subject to different German princes, and has 
been conquered by and incorporated into France since 
the Revolution. Hitherto, of course, everything has 
been German. Here all is French ; the language of 
the family ; the manners. The hostess, a very hand- 
some young woman (minus a beard), extremely attrac- 
tive and polite. Our conduct eur is French by birth, 
but not by manners. He is in all respects the chief 
of the party ; does the honors of the table, &c. At 

met an interesting young sub-officer, speaking 

perfectly good English. I am very bad company and 
unsocial, my head being so full of X matters. 

Paris, February 16, 1810. Hotel de Lyon, Rue 
Grenelle No. 7, St. Honore. Left Chalons at 5 yes- 
terday. The day, yesterday, was fine spring weather. 
The atmosphere tolerably clear. I rode outside to 
enjoy the beauty of the scenery. We breakfasted at 
Epernay, the centre of the fine vin Champaigne 1 coun- 
try, and we drank of several sorts. Thence along the 

Marne for leagues. The mountains on each 

side are covered with vines, but the land on the north 
side of the valley is of ten times more value than on 
the south. An arpent z of the former is said to be 
worth 2 to 4 thousand dollars. Rode all night, and 
arrived here at 12 this day. My room (the only 
vacant one in the hotel) is up two pairs of stairs, about 
fourteen feet square ; paved with brick, very coarsely 

I For vin de Champagne. Champagne. 

z An old French measure of from one to one and a half acres. 

4IO 



Private y o u rn a I of Aaron Burr. 

furnished ; a large, very large ill-constructed fire-place. 
No quantity of wood can warm the room. The wood 
is brought, five sticks at a time (such as Gampy would 
take in one hand), for 30 sous. The sou is about 
equal to our cent. This room is 40 sous per day. My 
comp. de voyage 1 ^ Major Thomas, took me to a coffee- 
house to dine. The expense with two bottles of wine 
was 60 sous each. Thence to a coffee-house au Palais 
Royal 2 . A dish of coffee, 10 sous. Walked an hour 
under the arches, which is the evening promenade. 
Saw not one beautiful or very fine woman. The best, 
you know, is always good. M'aime 3 ; 2 Eo. 4 Home 
at 9. 

17. My first business this morning was to 
address a note to the Due de Cadore, min. des rel'ns 
ext. s , which sent by a messenger, 12 sous. Thence to 
Hauterive ; out, left my name. To Mr. Schoel, 
libraire^ with letter from Bertuch ; out, left the letter, 
but no card. To Dr. Swediaur, with letter from 
Baron Strick. Sat half an hour with the Doctor. A 
man of sense and science ; frank and cheerful. Gave 
me very kind reception. Home at 4. A bowl of 
soup in my room for dinner, 8 sous, with bread. Tea 
in the evening, 30 sous. A note from the Due de 
Cadore, appointing Monday, 2 P. M., for an audience. 
Home and alone all the evening. 

1 For comfagnon de voyage. Traveling companion. 

2 At the Palais Royal. This was originally, as its name denotes, a royal palace Richelieu 
built it, 1629-1654, and gave it to the King. Louis XVI. presented it to the Duke of Orleans, 
in whose family it remained for many generations. The Duke of Orleans, known as Philippe 
Egalite, surrounded it with houses and galleries which are still used for purposes of trade. In 
one of its angles is the Theatre Francais. 

3 Burr may mean this for man aim'ee, my beloved, or for elle'm'aime, she loves me. 

4 Another riddle. Perhaps the apparent o is meant for u,in which case the word may be meant 
for ecus; hence 2 crowns. 

5 For ministre des relations ext'erieures. Minister of Foreign Relations, like our Secretary 
of State. ' 

4 II 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

1 8. Breakfast, tea, brought from the lemonadiere V, 
30 sous. The tea very bad ; coffee rather worse. At 
12 to Comte de Volney's ; out, left card. Having 
heard nothing from Hauterive, wrote him note, 
requesting information about several of my acquaint- 
ances ; out, and got no answer. Much trouble about 
outfits for presentation to-morrow. Tailor, chaponier z , 
&c. About 5 with Major Thomas to dine at any 
coffee-house or traiteur 1 . Seeing affiche 4 , dinner of four 
courses for 24 sous, went in to make experiments. 
Had for 24 sous a very good dinner and a small 
caraffe 5 of vin each. Took another bottle of vin Bourg. 
blanc 6 at 30 sous in honor of the house. The waiter 
expects nothing from you at these places. On the 
way went into a shop, vingt cinque sous le piece' ', and 
bought each a couple. A most curious collection of 
all manner of things, each being 25 sous. Thence to 
a coffee-house and took coffee. Thence au Coffee- 
house des Aveugles*, i. e., a cellar vaulted, eighty or a 
hundred feet square, well furnished. Music, an 
orchestra of blind performers. Entrance gratis. We 
were four, and took beer and biscuit, 3 sous each. 
Ladies of all sorts. Will talk with you, sit, eat, drink; 
but no further than solicitations unless you make 
overtures. I found one of them very amusing. 
Thence au Coffee des Milles Colonnes 9 , celebrated for the 

1 For limonadiere. Coffee-house keeper. 

2 For chapelier. Hatter. 

3 Eating-house keeper. 

4 Placard. 

5 Old spelling of carafe. 

6 For vin blanc de Bourgogne. White Burgundy wine. 

7 For vingt cinq sous la piece. Twenty-five sous for each article. 

8 To the Blind Men's coffee-house. Burr probably confuses coffee-house with Cafe. 

9 For au Cafe, etc. To the Cafe of the Thousand Columns. 

412 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

beauty of the mistress. The rooms are supported by 
colonnes, and every pier rilled by mirror. The reflec- 
tions give the idea of boundless space and numberless 
colonnes. The lady at one side, elevated about two 
feet ; a kind of throne, from which gives orders and 
receives money most graciously, and for 20 louis — but 
that must be a lie. We had a hot sangaree. Thence 
au Coffe des Varieties 1 . Pantomimic and dramatic per- 
formances are given. Entrance gratis. It was so 
crowded that we could not get in. Left my compan- 
ions and got home at Y / 2 P- 9. 

19. Rose late, which always stupifies me. 
Wrote a note to Hauterive requesting an answer. 
Got an answer, q. v. ! He knows nothing of Delage 
or Senat, or of any one of the subjects of my inquiry. 
Being dressed by 1, and having an hour to spare, 
went to Son Alt. Seren 1 . la HJ Duchesse de Courland 
and Semigalle 4 , to whom had a letter of introduction 
from Duke Reg. 5 de Gotha ; out. Left letter and 
card. To le Prince de Benevent 6 ; out, left card. The 
porter said if I wished to see him, I must address him 
a line and get his hour. Thence to le Due de Cadore. 
Here I was denied, not being on the list of receiva- 
bles, and not having brought with me the Duke's 
note. Fortunately, the porter of the day was a woman, 



1 For Cafe des Variet'es. To the Cafe of the Varieties. 

2 For Son Altesse Serinissime. Her Most Serene Highness. 

3 H. may stand for the Duchess's name, or possibly Haute, high. 

4 Courlande or Kurland is a government of Russia, one of the Baltic provinces. Semigalle 
or Semigallia was a Russian dukedom formerly united with Kurland. 

5 For Regnant, Reigning. 

6 Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Perigord (1754-1838), Prince de Benevent, commonly 
known as Talleyrand. He was Napoleon's Minister of Foreign Affairs until 1809, when he 
quarreled with him, being opposed to the Emperor's Russian and Spanish policy. 



413 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

her husband being sick. After much negotiating got 
admission to the antechamber. Sent in my card and 
was received. Had an hour's conversation ; all in 
French, and I was in bad order. Home at 4. Soup, 
au riz et boeuf au naturel 1 , &c, for dinner, 14 sous, 
bread included. Nothing is furnished at the hotel 
where I lodge but rooms, wood, candles, and wine. 
At 6 au Theatre Francois 2 . It was full, and no admis- 
sion could be had. Told my valet to take me to the 
nearest theatre. Paid 3 livres for a place. It was a 
rope-dancer. The first performer, a boy of about 7 
years ; the second, a girl of 5 or 6 ; the third, a lad of 
12 ; the fourth, a pretty girl of 16. Then successively 
three men who did wonders. You would think these 
fellows were made, like Bentham's tongs, of air and 
steel. Made a very pleasant acquaintance, who was in 
the adjoining box. We walked Y / 2 hour. "Vous par- 
roisses plein de genie ; la quelle de toutes vos talents vos 
Her vous le plus . ? " " Je nai cultive que celle de plaire" 1 . 
She gave me her address and invited me to sup, which 
I declined. How wonderfully discreet ! But then I 
engaged to call on her to-morrow. How wonderfully 
silly ! Home at 9. 

20. Rose again very late, and, of course, very 
stupid. The first thing I did was to call on my valet, 
and tell him I would discharge him if I was abed one 
minute later than y 2 p. 6 to-morrow. He swears by 

I For soupe au rix et boeuf au naturel. Rice porridge and beef cooked plain. 

z For Theatre Francais. To the, etc. This theatre was in one of the angles of the Palais 
Royal. 

3 For" Vous paraissex pleine de genie ; auquel de tous vos talents vous fiex.-vous le plus !" 
(Asked by Burr). "Jenai cultive que celui de plaire " (answered by the woman). "You 
appear to be full of genius ; upon which of all your talents do you rely most ?" "1 have culti- 
vated only that of pleasing." 

414 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr. 

all the saints that I shall be up at y 2 p. 6. At i to 
Lepine's, to whom I committed your watch to be put 
in perfect order. He knew it immediately, and by 
turning to his book told me the day it was sold. He 
showed me many superb clocks and timepieces. Sev- 
eral of curious construction and his invention. 
Thence to my rendezvous, Madame d'C. Choosing 
to go without my valet, it was Y / 2 p. 2 before I found 
the street. The rooms are elegantly fitted up. A 
young lady and a beautiful little boy urged me very 
much to walk in and wait the return of Madame, but 
my fit of discretion returned and I came off congratu- 
lating myself on my escape from a dangerous siren. 
The Major laughed at me most heartily and swore I 
should introduce him, but he has a security which God 
forbid I should ever [have] . " Ah ! Mon ami,je ne b. 
Plus." "£)ue vous etes heureux 1 /" He is about my age 
but more youthful and fresh in appearance ; a very 
handsome, well-made man of six feet ; a full chevelure* 
of fine chestnut hair. Went to several shops to hunt 
for American maps, but found none of any value. 
Called again on Schoel, whom I met. A most charm- 
ing, prepossessing, frank, open German face. Full of 
bonhommieK We shall be good acquaintances. Gave 
me some useful information, and an address to Mons. 
de Valkenaer, who is to give me more. At 3 came in 
le Comte de Volney 4 . He had peruke, and I did not 

1 Possibly for " Ah ! Mon ami, je ne bois plus." " Que vous etes heureux .'" " Ah, my 
friend, I drink no more." " How fortunate you are ! " 

2 Head of hair. 

3 For bonhomie. Good nature. 

4 Constantin Francois de Chassebceuf de Volney (1757-1820), a French scholar and author. 
He traveled in Syria and Egypt in 1783-87, and in the United States ; was a member of the Con- 
stituent Assembly; and was made a count by Napoleon and a peer by Louis XVIII. He was a 
prolific writer. His most famous work is, " Ruines, ou Meditations sur Us Revolutions des 
Empires " (I791). 

415 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

recognize him. Turned his profile; still meconnoisable 1 . 
Gave me his name, and we embraced. Sat an hour. 
Have not been out since 5, and have made but one 
meal. Tea, bread, and butter. 

21. Still hard winter. With my great chimney 
and small room ventilated at a thousand crevices, and 
wood at 25 sous for five small sticks, I suffer and 
freeze. Lay abed till near 10 this morning to keep 
myself warm. Sent my valet to hunt Barnett, late 
United States consul. He is out of town and Adet 2 , 
whose address he brought me. At 1 called on 
Scherer and Fringestin, with the letter of Sarasin. 
Saw Scherer, who invited me, in the name of his wife, 
to a party this evening, which declined. His estab- 
lishment is vast and splendid. To Schoel's to get 
Volney's new book. Home by way of P. R. 3 Took 
a room on the first floor ; wooden floor, something 
better furnished than the other, but I fear no warmer, 
at $o livres per month, with liberty to quit sooner on 
paying a little more. Being out of humor with my 
the 4 at 30 sous, and very bad, bought for 6 livres. 
Had the satisfaction to make my own slop in my own 
way. I have by this means learned the prices follow- 
ing : Butter, 36 sous per lb.; coffee, 1 10 sous per lb.; 
bread is reasonable ; for 4 sous I got my day's allow- 
ance and more. 

22. Last evening, after writing the preceding 



1 For meconnaissable. Not easy to be known again. 

2 Pierre Auguste Adet (1763-1832), was appointed minister from France to the United States 
in 1795. Two years later he broke off his diplomatic relations and before returning to France 
issued an address to the American people intended to make them dissatisfied with their govern- 
ment and its policy. 

3 For Palais Royal. 

4 Tea. 



4l6 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

page, read three hours in Bentham's notes on Judi- 
ciary. It answered the purpose of talking with him, 
and I caught a ray of illumination from his genius. 
This ray regards my own immediate concerns. At 10 
went to hunt Adet, whom I found. He recognized 
me immediately. Made an appointment to meet him 
au Corps Legislatif 1 at i. Hence to Volney's ; out. 
To Bovet and Bourdillion. Saw Bovet, who told me 
that young Bourdillion of Frankfort had announced 
me several days ago. Thence home, and at 1 au 
Corps Legislatif. The building is so immense and so 
intricate that I was a long time finding the right way. 
Mons. Adet met me, and we walked through the 
building and talked for y 2 hour. Home at 4. After 
dinner walked two hours in and about Palais Royal, 
where the eye and the ear may be always amused, and 
the other senses, if you please. Wrote a note to Due 
de Cadore. While I was dining a gentleman came in 
with a written message from the Re^\ Mr. I. Burr, 
Chanoine du Chapitre Collegial de Rheinfeld en Suisse*, 
inquiring if I were not son of Zacche Burr, mer. J 
d'Ostende, and hoping that we were very nearly 
related. I regretted that I could not claim the honor 
of any very near relationship, but shall write a line to 
my coz. 

23. There is no end to this winter. By way of 
variety, there is now a sort of sleet. Yesterday we 
had a little snow. Don't know at what hour I go to 

1 At the Legislative Assembly. This body originated in 1791 and existed under one form or 
another for many years. 

2 Canon of the Collegiate Chapter of Rheinfelden in Switzerland. 

3 For merchant i 

417 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

bed or get up, for your watch is in the hands of Lepine 
himself, who told me when it was sold, to whom, and 
for how much. He promised that it shall be put in 
complete order. At 12 to-day came in the celebrated 
Captain Haley. The first American I have seen. 
Told me that Vanderlyn 1 is in Paris, and hunting for 
me. I thought him in Rome. How glad ! Major 
or Colonel Hunt and Barnett are on a tour to sell 
lands. At 1, the weather notwithstanding, to Mons. 

, the celebrated geographer. Was received. 

Showed the maps I wished to examine. Offered to 
lend me any and to give me several. Passed an hour 
with him much to my satisfaction. A sensible, cheer- 
ful man of about 45 ; I believe a German, but speaks 
French and English. Home at 4. Before going out 
this morning, sent my note to the Duke de Cadore. 
Have no answer yet. This evening a card from Mr. 
and Madame Scherer, to pass the evening on Thurs- 
day. 

I This was John Vanderlyn, a celebrated painter. He was born at Kingston, N. Y., Octo- 
ber 15, 1776. At an early age he attracted the attention of Burr, who invited him to New York 
and received him in his own house. Vanderlyn studied painting with Stuart, and in 1796 went 
to Europe through the assistance of Burr, where he remained five years. He came back to the 
United States in 1801, but returned to Europe in 1803, remaining until 1815. He made 
many admirable copies from the old masters; painted the picture of Marius Seated Amid the 
Ruins of Carthage, which gained the Louvre gold medal in 1808 ; the Murder of Jane McCrea 
by the Indians, and other original works, which gave him a high reputation. Returning to the 
United States, he painted the portraits of Calhoun, Clinton, Madison, Monroe, Jackson, and 
other distinguished men. In 1S32 he was commissioned to paint a full-length portrait of Wash- 
ington for the hall of the House of Representatives, and in 1839 was commissioned to paint the 
Landing of Columbus for the Rotunda of the Capitol. The later years of Vanderlyn's life were 
spent in poverty. He died at Kingston, N. Y., September 23, 1852. 

The following is the letter of introduction which Burr wrote for Vanderlyn to Thomas 
Morris (son of Robert Morris, the financier of the Revolution), residing at the frontier settle- 
ment of Canandaigua, N. Y. It is dated New York, September 18, 1801 : 

" Mr. Vanderlyn, the young painter from Eusopus, who went about six years ago to Paris, 
has recently returned, having improved his talents in a manner that does very great honour to 
himself, his friends, and his country ; proposing to return to France in the spring, he wishes to 
take with him some American views, and for this purpose he is now on his way through your 
country to Niagara. I beg your advice and protection. He is a perfect stranger to the roads, 
the country, and the customs of the people, and, in short, knows nothing but what immediately 
concerns painting. From some samples which he has left here, he is pronounced to be the best 
painter that now is or ever has been in America. Your affectionate friend, A. Burr." 

4l8 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

24. Did not go out of my room yesterday after 
dinner. Voila huit jours in Paris 1 without having been 
to a theatre or place of amusement, though I am in 
the very center of theatres, bah masque et non masque 1 , 
and shows of all sorts. I had set my heart on one 
object, and that one sufficed for occupation and amuse- 
ment, but two days having now elapsed since my note 
to the Due and no reply, I may conclude that my 
hopes of business are at an end. Though couche at 
1, did not rise till near 10. At 1 to Captain Haley's, 
whence sent a note to Vanderlyn, requiring him to 
present himself. Roved two hours. Home at 4. 
Potage au ris pour din., 8 sous. Sor. 6. Bo't bru. and 
eas., 20 sous. Rencon. 2, 1 bonne ; encore, 3d ; ijfra.! 
Voila de V econ. % Home at 9. Bo't b'd, 8 sous 4 . At 
12 Major Thomas came in to take leave. He goes 
to Portugal. 

25. Couche 1. Rose 9. Perhaps this great tor- 
por may arise from having left off my evening tea, 
which was a very great luxury, but certain objections 
which you can divine. Waited till x / 2 p. 1 1 in hopes 
of seeing Vanderlyn, but he came not. Is it possible 
that he, too, can have turned rascal? Sor. 12 to Comte 

de Volney. T : Le C/iev. s de . Sat x / % hour. 

Gave him several commissions, which he undertook 
cheerfully. The sessions of the senaf are always 

1 For Voila huit jours que je suis in Paris, etc. Here I have been eight days in Paris. 

2 For bals masques et non masques. Masquerade balls and balls without masquerade. 

3 For Potage au rix, four diner, 8 sous. Sors a six heures. Bought Brod and Kase, 20 
sous. Deux rencontres, dont Vune fut bonne; encore une rencontre, la troisieme; 13 francs. 
Voila de V'economie ! Rice soup for dinner, 8 sous. Go out at 6. Bought bread and cheese. 
Two rencounters, one good ; another, the third, 13 francs! That's economy for you ! 

4 Bought bread, 8 sous. 

5 For le Chevalier de . 

6 The senate. 

419 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

secret ; no one admitted. The treaty with Sweden 
proclaimed in all form yesterday. Forgot to tell you 
that I met one of the processions yesterday on the 
Pont Neuf 1 . The carnival must have commenced, 
for I meet in the streets persons in the most fantas- 
tique z attire. Some covered from head to foot with 
slips of various colored paper, imitating plumes ; 
others a I 1 harlequin 1 , &c. The weather has become 
mild. Two days of strong south wind, with mist. 
Dinner y 2 p. mjol. and bru. A but first au bain s , 30 sous. 
On return from bain found card of V. D. L. 6 Went 
at 6 to find him, a full league. The address must be 
wrong, for at 71 Vaugirard he was not known. Called 
on Captain Haley on return. He tells me that S. 
Broome is here, and desirous of seeing me ! Home 
at 8. Did not go out again. Resol. 7 to make further 
attempt to get hearing. 

26. Couche 1. Rose 7. At 9 to Captain 
Haley's to get him to show me Vanderlyn's quarters. 
He had given me the wrong number, 71 instead ot 
72. They were x / 2 mile distant. Found Vanderlyn. 
He is the same as ci-dev? Took breakfast with him. 
An hour looking at his pictures. Marius on the 
Ruins of Carthage obtained the gold medal in 1808. 
I see nothing in that line to exceed it. Other admir- 
able things, both original and copied. Then walked 



1 One of the great bridges over the Seine ; literally, new bridge, 

a Fantastic. 

3 For a Vharlequin. In the manner of a harlequin. 

4 Probably for y 2 pint mj'alk and brad. Milk and bread. 

5 To the bath. 

6 For Vanderlyn. It is in this way that Burr usually abbreviates the nar 

7 For resolve. 

8 For ci-devant. Heretofore. 

420 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

to his shoemaker's. Thence to St. Mar. Gate 1 , where 
Madame Senat lately lodged, that is to say, six years 
ago. No person at the house had any recollection of 
her, so that matter must be given up. Thence to the 
Louvre 2 . The statues and pictures ; the Venus de 
Medici, Apollo de Belvidere, Laocoon 5 , &c. The 
gallery containing the paintings is 1,400 French feet 
long, about 1,550 English, besides a very large hall. 
Home at 4. Pot. au ris. 4 At 6 to the little Vaud- 
ville 5 Theatre, where were performed "Le Mar. de 

" 6 , u Le ", et le fandango 7 , each about an 

hour long. Home yi P- 10. The theatre is small and 
very plain. No scenery but a change of rooms. 
Paterre s , orchestra, and five rows of boxes. For the 
first and second row of boxes and orchestra you pay 
un ecu de 6 francs 9 . All the parts extremely well 
acted. 

27. Vanderlyn came in about 9 and took break- 
fast with me, and went with me to Fonzi, the dentist e lQ . 

28. Fruitless tour to find Fonzi. Visit from 
Comte de Volney. Visit to Adet. To Fonzi. A 



1 baint Martin's Gate, one of the well-known gates of old Paris. It was a triumphal arch 
erected in 1674 in honour of Louis XIV. 

2 The Louvre is one of the most extensive and historically interesting buildings in the 
world. It was a castle for the kings of France from or before the thirteenth century, and the 
chief royal palace until Louis XIV. built Versailles. It has been changed and enlarged in the 
course of the centuries. A great deal of the interior has been occupied since 1793 by 
the famous museum. 

3 The Venus of Medici, now in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence, and the Apollo Belvidere 
and the Laocoon, now in the Vatican at Rome, were among the many celebrated works of art 
which fell into Napoleon's hands about 1796 and were transferred to the Louvre, where they 
remained till 1815. 

4 For Potage au rix. Rice soup or porridge. 

5 Meaning probably le Theatre du Vaudeville, the Vaudeville Theatre near the Louvre. 

6 Probably for " Le Marquis de ," or "Le Mariage de ." 

7 The fandango is a Spanish dance in triple time, usually accompanied by castanets. 

8 For parterre. Pit. 

9 Literally a crown of 6 francs. 
10 Dentist. 



421 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

note from min. rel. exL 1 appointing M. Roux 2 to treat 
with me. To Piquet's, where bought map of the 
United States and of Mexico for 9 francs. 

Paris, March 1, 18 10. To the chaponiers\ the 
greatest rascal in Paris. Paid 1 5 francs for using a 
hat and sword one hour, and 27 livres for a round hat 
hors du mode*. But, thank God, I am quit of him. 
To Comte de Volney at 1 1 ; out. To Hauterive's ; 
out. To Vanderlyn, with whom left the picture to be 
put into the hands of an engraver. Home at 1, and 
at 2 to Roux, with whom an hour. A sensible, ami- 
able young man. Home at y 2 p. 3. At 4 came 
Vanderlyn ; at 7 Mr. B. At 8 to Scherer's. Was 
the first arrived. They were coming till past 10. 
Danced till 2. Le gr. Suisse'*. Le beau Jils 6 de Con- 
inck. Mr. La Cas 7 et sa jo. fern, espag? General 

Waltershoff. Bar. , min. de Soed. 9 General 

Valleme. Madame , che. am. de Mirabeau 10 . 



1 For Ministre des Relations Ext'erieures. Minister of Exterior (i. e., Foreign) Relations. 

2 Louis Roux (1759-1817). At the beginning of the Revolution a priest. He was a deputy 
to the Convention and voted for the death of Louis XVI. He was one of the committee which 
prepared the constitution of 1793. Afterward was a member of the Committee of Public Safety, 
then a member of the council of 500. After 1797 he became archivist to the ministry of police 
under Fouche. He went over to the ministry of commerce during the consulate and empire 
and sat in the chamber of representatives during the Hundred Days. In 1816 he was compelled 
to leave France as a regicide. 

3 For chapelier. Hatter. 

4 For hors de mode. Out of style. 

5 For Le grand Suisse. The tall Swiss guard. This word has a history. Mercenaries 
from Switzerland were used as a species of bodyguard by foreign sovereigns of France and 
Naples and also by other monarchs. The proper noun became a common noun, synonymous 
with bodyguard. The guards at the Vatican are still so called. 

6 For beau-fils. Son-in-law. 

7 Meaning Las Cases, mentioned further on. 

8 Mr. L. and his pretty Spanish wife (sa jolie femme espagnole). 

9 For Ministre de la Suede. Swedish Minister. 

10 For chire amie de Mirabeau. Dear friend of Mirabeau. There were several Mirabeaus, 
but the reference is probably to the celebrated Gabriel Honore Riquetti, Comte de Mirabeau, 
(1749-1791), the greatest orator of the French Revolution. The lady hinted at by Burr but not 
named may have been Madame de Nehra, whom Mirabeau met during his flight into Holland 
and whom he later sent to Paris to make his peace with the authorities. For years she exercised 
a wholesome influence on the headstrong, passionate Mirabeau. 



422 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

La Russe. 1 La Portug*. Tea, cakes, ices, lemonade, 
sangaree, finally soups ; all served round. Home at 
3. Carriage hire, going and coming, 4 francs 10 
sous. 

1. Couche 3. Rose 7. At 9 to Hauterive's. 
The porter said his master was abroad, which was a 
lie, and that Madame was too indisposed to see any- 
one, which was another. That he was charged by 
Monsieur to say to me, in case I should call, that, if I 
had anything to communicate or require, it ought to 
be by letter, as his engagements, &c, did not allow 
him the time to see me ! There's for you ! To Mr. 
Roux's house at 10, to make supplementary commun- 
ication ; passed ^/£ hour. Home at 11. Coach-hire, 
4 francs. At 1 to Baron d' Alberg, Minister of Bade 3 ; 
out ; left letter and card. To Scherer's to get sundry 
addresses, and to get him to find Louisa Marlow. To 
hunt General Waltershoff, but could not find the 
house. To Comte de Volney's ; out. Home at 3. 
Coach hire, 3 franc 10 sous. " Un bon. consommation" * 
which was scarcely mangab/e 5 for din., 8 sous. At 4 to 
de Zauche's, the geographer. Bought two maps for 4 
francs. To Vanderlyn's ; out. A little stupid or so. 
At 9 came in Mr. Bro. Ate bread and smoked and 
sat till y 2 p. 11. 

3. Couche 1. Rose 7. Again to Scherer's to 
get the address of Waltershoff, but did not get it. 

I The Russian lady. 

z For La Portugaise. The Portuguese lady. 

3 French name of Baden, Germany. 

4 For une bonne consommation. Literally, a good consumption. As here used the word con- 
sommation is somewhat vulgar. The phrase represents the English phrase, " good feed." 

5 For mangeable. Eatable. Din. for diner. 

423 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

To Volney's ; out. To Mons. la Case 1 , whom saw ; 
very civil ; has been in the United States. Is int. 2 
with Carmg. 5 un horn. qu. veu.fai. chem* 

P. M. Note from Baron d'Alberg to dine with 
him on Monday. Au Theatre Francois 5 , where saw 
the new tragedy of " Brunehart" and after, the " Bar- 
bier de Seville ou Figartf" par Beaumarchais. I 

thought M'lle better in tragedy than Madame 

7 , who is the Siddons of Paris. Sat next an 

English lady. The Emperor came in during the 
fourth act, and was vis-a-vis de moi. s Had a good 
view of him. There was clapping in the pit when he 
entered and when he went out. He made a slight 
bow on going out. 

Paris, March 10, 1810. Just one week since I 
have written you a line, for which I have no apology 
to offer. The Emperor attends service (mass) every 
Sunday at his chapel. He also attends frequently 
reviews in the Tuileries 9 . To assist 10 at either requires 

1 Comte Emmanuel Augustin Dieudonne de Las Cases (1766-1842) was a French historian 
of considerable repute. In 1808 Napoleon made him a baron and gave him a position in the 
council of state. He is best known to the world as the companion of the fallen Emperor at St. 
Helena, to whom Napoleon dictated a part of his memoirs, which he afterwards published. As a 
young man Las Cases had been several times in the United States. 

2 Probably for intimate. 

g The name carmagnole was originally applied to a wild dance and song popularized by the 
French revolutionists of 1789. It also came to be applied to the extreme revolutionists. Burr 
may mean that the man named was intimate with the most rabid revolutionists. 

4 For un homme qui vcut faire son chimin, A man who means to make his way ; an 
ambitious man. Perhaps there is in these words a squint at Burr's own plots, for he was con- 
stantly on the outlook for persons whom he might use in realizing his dream of Mexico. 

5 For Theatre Fram;ais. 

6 Beaumarchais wrote two very famous comedies, the most famous of their class since those 
of Moliere. Their titles were, " Le Barbier de Seville " (1775) and u Le Mariage de Figaro " 
(1781). Figaro is the principal character in both plays. 

7 Burr does not give the name. Perhaps Duchesnois. 

8 For vis-a-vis de moi. Opposite me. 

9 The Tuileries, properly speaking, no longer exists, having been demolished by the Com- 
munists in 1871. It was an old palace, built originally in the sixteenth century. Before the 
Revolution it had been used at times as a temporary residence of the kings, but after that epoch 
it became the permanent abode of the French rulers. 

10 This verb is at best a Gallicism. An authority says : " Assist for ' be present ' still has 
foreign air about it." Lord Macaulay and Dr. Newman used the word. 



424 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

a ticket, and I have not yet had influence enough 
to procure one for either. Sunday, Monday and 
Tuesday I was very busy preparing a letter intended 
to be presented to the Emperor. When it was nearly 
done, something occurred, which altered my mind. 
On Monday dined with the Baron d'Alberg. There 
was a Count Louis (senateur 1 , I think), General Val- 
lance, two ladies, and five other gentlemen. Gamp 
was of so small account that neither chair nor plate 
was provided for him, and he stood a minute after all 
were seated. Mons. le Baron d'Alberg is a man of 
about 32, Madame about the same. He has been 
created a Duke by the Emperor. While I was pre- 
paring my letter I had occasion for some maps, which, 
on my first visit to Valkenaer, he had offered to lend 
me, but which I then declined. On Wednesday went 
to him to ask the loan. He denied having made such 
offer, and treated me rudely. Monday had a note 
from Madame L., requesting an interview. After 
leaving d'Alberg's, called on Madame. A sensible, 
well-bred woman. Has a daughter about 16. The 
husband of Madame has been in America six years, 
having, as I take it, abandoned wife and daughter. 
Adet has not returned my visit. On Monday evening 
with Vanderlyn at the opera. The scenery, and bal- 
lets, and decorations are charming, and that is all. On 
Tuesday a minuit au grand bal masque 1 at the Theatre 
Imperial. There were very few characteristic dresses, 
and about one thousand people. It appeared to me 



1 Senator. 

2 At midnight to the grand masquerade. 



4*5 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

that at least 900 ennuied 1 themselves. I was without 
mask. Took seat in the boxes, promenaded a little 
the room, and came off at 2 o'clock. A gentleman 
remarked that the English had no word to express 
ennui 1 , which he thought the more remarkable as they 
were so subject to that evil. No, replied le Comte de 
L. In England it is conceived to be the natural state, 
and synonymous with existence, and, therefore, no 
word requisite. This P. M. wrote note to Adet, to 
remind him of the ticket for the chapel. He answered 
that he had applied, and it had been refused. Thurs- 
day called at Fonzi's to take Vanderlyn to the Theatre 
Comique. There were Madame F. and Mr. de 
Castro, and we staid and passed the evening there. 
De Castro is very charming. The other sensible and 
amiable. I have been running all this week to book- 
sellers to hunt something, particularly dictionaries, for 
you. There is no good dictionary of the French 
language. The National Institute 2 are now occupied 
in that affair, and their work may be expected to 
appear about the year 1835 '•> so a distinguished mem- 
ber of that body informed me. Yesterday called on 
M. Roux to know if any answer. None ; but the 
Minister hoped I would not be impatient to leave 
Paris. To-day called again on Mr. R., and, after 
conversation, agreed to take dinner with him en famille. 

1 This word is certainly English in our day, although it still has a foreign sound. 
Caleb Colton says : " Ennui, perhaps, has made more gamblers than avarice, more drunkards 
than thirst, and perhaps as many suicides as despair." 

2 The French Academy {V Academic Fran^aise) was founded by Cardinal Richelieu in 
1635 for the purpose of controlling the French language and regulating literary taste. Among 
the objects provided for in its constitution was the preparation of a dictionary of the French 
language. The first edition of the celebrated " Dictionnaire de V Academic" appeared in 1694 
while the seventh came out in 1878. The " French Academy " is but one of five academies 
comprised in the National Institute of France. 

426 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

There were, besides him, Madame, and fils, two gen- 
tlemen and a lady. Was amused and something more. 
Home at 9. My friend, Captain Haley, has left town 

for a fortnight. Le Comte de L also for eight 

days. Cannot hear of Delage, Senat, or Marlow. At 
this late hour, am going to make a slop tea. 

11. The tea kept me awake till 4, and then I 
locked my door to prevent the coming in of the ser- 
vant as usual at 7. Slept till 10, which have had 
reason to regret. First, D. Swede, whom I wished 
much to see, called at 9, and I was reported out. 
Second, at 8 came a note from Mons. R., informing 
me that Mr. M. would conduct me to the Tuileries, 
and procure me admission to see the reviews at y 2 p. 
9 ; that, too, was lost. I did, however, call on Mr. 
M. about y 2 p. 11, and he was still waiting for me; 
but the Tuileries gates were shut, and there was no 
entrance. We were turned off very rudely. Thence 

to Schoel's. Saw Mr. and Mrs. . Met several 

regiments passing the bridge, coming from the parade. 
At 3 to Madame Loigerot's. She tells me of several 
ladies of my acquaintance ; among others, Mrs. Rob- 
ertson (c. d. Reid) whom you knew at New York ; 
now a widow, he having died six months ago. Am to 
meet Madame R. at Madame L.'s on Tuesday even- 
ing. Home at 4, and have not been out since. 
Vanderlyn came in at 8, took tea, and staid till 10. 
Have a vile sore throat since four days. It grows 
worse and yields to nothing. Din. fillibonka 1 . 

1 Even in Paris Burr likes to return now and then to his favorite Swedish dish. 

427 



Private journal of Aaron Burr. 

12. The tea kept me awake till 4. Rose at 9, 
quite choaked 1 with sore throat. Walked out an hour 
before breakfast, though a chilly morning, to hunt 
your dictionaries, but have not purchased. There is 
not yet any very good dictionary. A new edition of 
the Academy, by Moulardier and Le Clerc, not being 
issued under the proper authority, has, I am told, been 
condemned. It is, however, in one shop offered for 
sale at the enormous price of 80 francs, in two volumes 
quarto. The " Die. Critique"* of Feraud, not pre- 
tending to be a complete dictionary of the language, 
in three volumes, may, at the same time, be had for 
36 francs. That of Gattel, in two volumes octavo, for 
14 francs. The last two I shall buy for you, and the 
new edition of the " Die. des Synonyms" 1 . But how 
they are to be got out to you is a circumstance not 
yet foreseen, all commerce on both sides being pro- 
hibited. Home, and took some tea and bread, which 
swallowed with difficulty. At 1 to Swediaur's, and 
gave him a louis 4 professionally, the first cent spent in 
this way in ten years. He tells me nothing new, but 
with the ordinary remedies thinks I will be able to 
speak and swallow in three or four days. The latter 
is of little consequence to me, you know ; but the 
former may be of very great, having yet a hope of 
being called on for explanations, &c. The Doctor 
gave me the address of another bookseller, Madame 
Paschaud, genevoise s . I was very agreeably surprised 

1 So in the MS. 

2 For" La Dictionnaire Critique" " The Critical Dictionary." 

3 For" La Dictionnaire des Synonymes." " The Dictionary of Synonyms." 

4 The fee seems extremely high. 

5 For Genevoise. A Genevese lady. 

428 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr, 

to find a beautiful, sensible, well-bred woman. Sat y 2 
hour, and engaged to call again as visitor, though I 
am yet incog. Called on my shoemaker, who is as 
faithless as any American mechanick 1 . Home at 3. 

28. Looking over my scraps, I cannot find that 
I have written you a line since the 12th inst., nor have 
I any sort of apology to offer for the negligence. Not 
want of leisure, for of that I have but too much. It 
was on that day that I saw Madame Paschaud, and I 
have been there regularly twice a day. Have passed 
every evening with her save one. Have walked with 
her ; been to the opera ; dined there two or three 
times en fam. z She introduced me to her sister, who 
is married and settled here ; also to the very vener- 
able and interesting Mons. Suard 3 , eminent for his 
literary talents and acquirements. My principal rival 

is Mons. Cha , who comes very often with a 

very elegant equipage. Madame is about the size and 
form of Dolly 4 , though some ten years younger, still 
larger. Very black hair and eyes. A fine, clear, fair 
brunette, with the complexion of full health. Her 
husband is at Geneve 5 . I rather think that she must 
be the cause that I have not written you. This 
evening she goes to a ball, so that I am at home at 10 
(having just now left her), which is at least one hour 
earlier than usual. Have dined once with Swediaur. 
A pleasant, social party of eight ; among them Oelsner, 

I So in the MS. 

2. For en famille. 

I Jean Baptiste Antoine Suard ( 1733-1817) was a very voluminous French writer. For many 
years he was theatrical censor at Paris. In 1803 he became perpetual secretary of the class of 
language and literature of the French Academy. 

4 The reference may be to Mrs. James Madison, known to her intimate friends as Dolly. 

5 For Geneve. Geneva. 

429 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

to whom he had introduced me some days before. 
Oelsner introduced me to a very singular and amiable 
man, dun certain age 1 , le Comte de Slubrendorf. 
There met the celebrated Abbe Gerard 2 and a Polish 
nobleman. Yesterday called on Mrs. Robertson, the 
widow of Dr. Robertson, who has here a very elegant 
establishment. She is amazingly well preserved. She 
told me that young T. Butler and one of his sisters 
are here for his health. Called on him, but they were 
out. Was at a ball at Scherer's on Thursday. There 
were several fine women. A young Swiss of the name 
of de Rham introduced himself to me. He has been 
five years in the United States. Left New York in 
December last. Intimate with the Laights, &c. A 
young Frenchman, nomniP Paul, also just from Phila- 
delphia. He met me in the street, and claimed my 

acquaintance. Madame , author of the 

" Orphelins " 4 , sent me a copy of her book, with a 
pretty note, which cost me a louis. Very silly. On 
Friday last wrote to his Majesty the King of West- 
phalia 5 , asking an audience, but he had gone to 
Compiegne 6 . Have had several interviews with M. 
Roux, and once dined with him. Have no reason to 
believe that my business advances, or that I shall do 

1 An elderly gentleman (age). 

2 This was probably Philippe Louis Gerard (1737-1813) who was a well-known French 
ecclesiastic of the period. His work on " The Errors of the Reason " was for many years 
widely read in France. There was another well-known churchman of the time named Francois 
Girard ( 1735—1811) who assisted Marie Antoinette during her last moments, and subsequently 
became canon of Notre Dame in Paris. 

3 For nommi. Named. 

4 " The Orphans." 

5 Jerome Bonaparte was King of Westphalia from 1807 to 1813. 

6 Compiegne is a town on the river Oise, northeast of Paris. It is notable as having been 
in former times a favorite royal residence. There was an ancient palace from the Merovingian 
times which was rebuilt in the time of Louis XV. and beautifully fitted up by Napoleon I. It 
was at Compiegne that Joan of Arc was taken prisoner in 1430. 

43° 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

anything here. On Monday called on Mr. Ferris, an 
Irishman, related to Blennerhasset 1 . Visit returned 
yesterday. Called on Schweitzer, who has returned 
the visit. He is little changed. Yesterday wrote the 
Prince de Benevent, asking an interview, but have 
received no answer. Have seen Volney several times. 
Have bought you dictionaries, &c, to the amount of 
9 louis. Dined once at a restaurateur's 1 with Van- 
derlyn, 3 francs 6 sous. He calls on me almost daily. 
What's next to be done, Madame ? 

Paris, April 6 or 7, 18 10. Eight days more 
without a line ! Paschaud takes up all my time. On 
Wednesday wrote a letter to the King of Westphalia, 
desiring an audience. Left the letter in person. 
Within two hours after, a note from his chamberlain, 
giving me rendezvous at 5 P. M. same day. Went. 
Passed ]/ 2 hour in private with him. Was received 
graciously. Y the Count de Furstenstein (camus) 1 
claimed my acquaintance. By order of his Majesty, 
the Comte is to aid me to translate ; for this purpose 
rendezvous chez lui at 9 next morning. Thence to 
Paschaud's to dine. They had waited an hour for 
me. In the morning of the same day called on the 



1 Harman Blennerhasset, who has gone into history as " a victim of Aaron Burr." He was 
born in Hampshire, England, October 8, 1764 or 1765. He was liberally educated and removed 
to the United States, taking up his abode on an island in the Ohio river below Parkersburg, 
where he erected a magnificent house and devoted himself to scientific recreation and luxury. 
Burr met him there and the two embarked in the Mexican scheme, both supplying money. 
Upon the failure of the joint projects, Blennerhasset became involved in litigation and confisca- 
tions; he tried in vain to recover his fortune and died in Guernsey, February I, 1831. His wife 
wrote some books and died in this country while trying to recover losses from the government. 
Blennerhasset went into a dangerous and difficult enterprise with his eyes open; he lost, and 
spent the remainder of his life in whimpering. Burr lost far more, and bore his losses like a 
man, never complaining and never condescending to explanations or excuses. 

2 At a restaurant keeper's. 

3 The word means flat-nosed, but it may be intended here as a nickname. 



431 



Private J o u r n a I of Aaron Burr . 

Duke d'Alberg, who always receives me kindly. Told 
him that I wanted access, &c. He gave me note of 
introduction to le Comte de S., which I transmitted 
forthwith, requesting an interview. Have no reply 
from this Comte. j^. mir. 1 At an early hour, same 
morning, called on Comte de V. by appointment. 
Seems frightened. Passed the evening of Wednesday 
with Paschaud till 9, and then home to write. Wrote 
a short let. a S. M., FE. y et R. 1 At 9 next morning 
to Furstenstein's, to whom explained my business, 
and left him my letter to translate. At 5 P. M. 
called and got the translation. Thence to Paschaud, 
where copied and sealed it, and sent it under cover to 
the Comte, to be delivered as he or the King ot 
Westphalia should see fit. Staid with Pash. till 11. 
Rose this morning at 6. My barber comes at that 
hour, and I have taken a barber for no other purpose 
but to be waked regularly. Eight sous per day. To 
Fonzi's at 10, where was detained three hours. At 1 
to La Monnoie*, but was too late. Au bibliothec."' et au 
Mon. des Medailles s to see for medals for Gampy, but 
had no success. Did I ever tell you that Lepine 
charged me 3 louis for repairing your watch ? Worse 
still, he says, and refers to his register, that he received 
for the watch 26 louis only ! To Paschaud's at 4. 

1 For Latin quod mirum ! How strange ! 

2 For a Sa Majest'e V Empercur et Roi. To His Majesty the Emperor and King. Does Burr 
mean both these titles for Napoleon ? Or does the title of king refer to King Jerome .' 

3 For La Monnaie or V Hotel de la Monnaie or V Hotel des Monnaies. The Mint. This 
was an old institution. The present great building was constructed from 1771 to 177S. 

4 For a la bibliotheque. To the library. It was probably La Bibliotheque Ste-Geneviive, one 
of the very old libraries of Paris. 

5 For a la Monnaie des M'edailles. At the medal mint. Long after the founding of the mint 
mentioned in Note 2, Louis XV. caused to be constructed a separate mint for medals, medal- 
lions, etc. This was discontinued as a separate establishment in 1832. 

43 2 



Private journal of Aaron Burr . 

To Roux at 5. He has nothing to communicate ! 
This morning I've called on le Comte de Slubrendorf, 
who always amuses and interests me. About a 
fortnight ago that called on Madame Robertson. 
Refused to go to Paschaud's this evening. The only 
one (save one) since the 12th of March. Called on 
Madame Loigerot. Home at 9. Raw, chilly weather, 
and I keep no fire. 

19. Rose 7. Raining and chilly weather. This 
climate is worse than ours. At 1 1 to S. P. B. to talk 
of various projects. At 1 to Madame Paschaud's. 
T Pelough et ux. Home at 3. Dressed, and at 5 
walked to Mr. Stone's to dine. T: Miss Williams 1 
tres celeb. 1 ; le Harpe 3 et ux.; Madame Gretanius, of 
South Carolina ; Madame a Swede and now veuve 
and her beautiful daughter dit 4 13 but might pass for 
15; Mr. Smith, emig. d'ecosse c. d. assoc. de Muir s ; 
le Cheval. Boufflers 6 et ux.; two others. Easy and 
elegant hospitality. Staid till y 2 p. 10. This day 
paid my monthly bills to landlord and porter ; 

1 Helen Maria Williams. 

2 For tres c'elibre. Very celebrated. In Davis's alleged reprint of the Journal the abbrevi- 
ation celeb, is printed Coeleb ! 

3 Frederic Cesarde La Harpe ( 1754-1838) was born in Switzerland. As a young man he 
met at Rome Catherine II. of Russia, who invited him to St. Petersburg to take charge of the 
education of the two young Grand Dukes, Alexander and Constantin. He accepted the post 
and was given the rank of colonel in the Russian army. When the French Revolution broke 
out, La Harpe wrote revolutionary letters to Switzerland, which made him an exile. He took 
refuge in France. Soon the Swiss Revolution broke out and La Harpe went thither with the 
French troops. He became a member of the directory of the new republic. He attempted a 
coup d'etat after the French fashion, but failed. In i8zo he went to France again, but was coldly 
received by Napoleon. He lived in retreat in the vicinity of Paris until about 1815. In that 
year he again saw his former pupil, then Alexander, Emperor of Russia, by whom he was made 
a general in the Russian army. La Harpe was present at the congress of Vienna, and it is said 
that it was due to his influence over Alexander that Switzerland, La Harpe's native land, fared 
better than other countries at the hands of the congress. He passed his last days at Lausanne, 
Switzerland. 

4 Said to be. 

5 For emigre d y Ecoise, ci-devant asiocie de Muir. Scotch emigrant, formerly Muir's associate. 

6 Catherine Stanislas, Marquis de Boufflers (1738-181; )called Abbe and afterwards Cheva- 
lier de Boufflers. He was a French litterateur, soldier, and courtier, and for three years was 
Governor of Senegal. His best-known literary work was " Voyage en Suisse," (" Journey in 
Switzerland "). He was a disciple and friend of Voltaire. 

433 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr. 

together 80 francs. Non. Void 1 : Doprez, 58.11; 
porter, 16.1 and etrennes z i 12, ; equal 86 francs 13 sous. 
Story of Le Roy Mar d de Modes et I'EmpJ Yester- 
day, 1 8th, rose 9. To Fonzi's at 10 and till 11. To 

the imprim. de fayance de Stone et Co. 4 with , the 

young German introduced to me by Madame 

c. d. 5 Langworthy. Mr. Stone asked me to dine to- 
morrow, 19th. At Y / 2 p. 1 to Paschaud. Thence to 
le Muse des Antiq. 6 The tombs and monuments for 
1,400 years; Gabrielle 7 of Henry IV.; Marie de 
Medici. To Paschaud's till 4. Thence to Vander- 
lyn's, but he had company and did not stay to dine. 
On way home bought bru? and called at Rochetti's. 
Home y 2 p. 5. Tea for din. At 8 to Paschaud's 
and till x / 2 p. 10. Mus. 10 francs. Mauv. 9 Much 

H: * HJ *i° 

. 

17. Rose 7. To Paschaud's at 1 1 ; asked to 
dine, but was engaged with young German, Gerhard 

Oncken. At 5 went with him to the hotel de ". 

Bu. tro. lz Home at 8 in bad order. Coucbe 1 1 and 
laid till 9. 



1 No, this is the way it is: Doprez (probably the host's name), 58 francs 11 sous, etc. 
i For des itrennes. Literally, New Year's gifts; here probably meant for ordinary presents 
or tips. 

3 Le Roy, may be the merchant's name, or else it may stand for le /Joi, the King. Then 
Le Roy marchand de Modes et V Empereur. Le Roy (or the King), fashion merchant and the 
Emperor. 

4 For r Imprimerie de Faience de Stone et Compagnie. The faience printing establishment of 
Stone & Co. 

5 For ci-devant. Here the equivalent of nee. 

6 For Le Mus'ee des Antiquit'es. The Museum of Antiquities. 

7 Gabrielle d'Estrees (1571-1599) was a mistressof Henry IV. of France and was famous for 
her beauty and notorious for her scandalous life and luxury. She acquired the titles Marquise 
de Monceaux and Duchesse de Beaufort. 

8 Is it not strange that Burr so persists in using this misspelled Swedish word for bread > 

9 For muse 10 francs. Mauvaise. Muse, 10 francs. Bad. 

10 An undecipherable word. It looks like potis , c or patis\. 

11 Possibly tor V Hotel des Monnaies. The mint, which he attempted to enter a few days 
before, but was too late. 

IZ For J'avais trop bu. Had drunk too much. 



434 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

20. Couche 12. Lev. 7. Read an hour in 
Weiss. Sor. 1 1 to the umbrella-mender ; nothing 
done. To bottler to leave pair of boots to racom. 1 
To Paschaud's. T till y 2 p. 2. To Loigerot's, 
where found invitation from to concert to- 
morrow evening. Think I shall not go. To Fonzi's ; 
to Madame P.'s at 4 and went with her to her sister's 
to dine en fam. z After dinner walked with her along 
Boulevard to Port St. Denis', and returned chez 
elk* at 10. Home very lasK Made tea to refraich b , 
and now, at ^ p. 1 1, bon soir. 

21. Rose 6. At 9 to Fonzi's and till 11. 
Thence to Loigerot's. M. had told that Gamp had 
related various things of her mar. J though Gamp 
never saw, never heard, nor spoke of him. T received 

invitation of Mr. to concert this evening, 

which declined. To Due d'Alberg's. Always re- 
ceives me with civility, and gives me the best advice 
in his power. To Madame Gretanius's. Saw her and 
her beautiful daughter. To M'lle H. M. Williams ; 
out. To the magaz* of Mr. Stone to see him ; out ; 
not there. Very las} Home to rest an hour. At 
j4 P- 3 to Madame P.'s, where was engaged to dine at 
5. Mr. La Salle; Mr. and Mrs. Pelough. Staid till 
8. Came home expecting Bro., but he came not. 



I For To the bottier to leave a pair of boots to raccommoder. To the bootmaker's to leave a 
pair of boots to mend. 
Z For en famille. 

3 The St. Denis gate was, like that of St. Martin, erected in the seventeenth century in honour 
of the triumphs of Louis XIV. 

4 To her house. 

5 Tired. 

6 For four me rafraichir. To refresh myself. 

7 For man'. Husband. 

8 For magasin. Shop. 

435 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr. 

Took tea, contrary to custom and to reason. Had 
this day card from Captain Lawson, note from 
Vanderlyn, and a very civil invitation from H. M. 
Williams to dine on Tuesday, to which agreed. 

22. Rose 7, having been kept awake almost all 
night by the tea. At 8 to Vanderlyn's to breakfast. 
Off at io. Your picture goes on slowly. At 12 to 
see Lawson. T y 2 hour. To Fonzi's to get my hat, 
but had not left it there. To Due d'Alberg's to see 
for my hat ; not there ; so must be finally lost, i. <?., 
exchanged for a very bad one. To le Comte de 
Furstenstein's. He nor his Ki. 1 not returned to town, 
nor expected these ten days. To Dr. Swediaur's ; out. 
To Madame P.'s ; out. Home at 3. At 4 came in 
Vanderlyn. Din. bro. mjolk. Sor. 5 to change money. 
Get 20 francs 14 sous for Fred. d'or z and 26.10 for 
English guinea. To the Theatre Francois to hear 
Talma 3 . Obliged to wait forty minutes in the crowd, 
nearly squeezed to death. Heard the tragedy of 
" Manlius. ' Did not wait to see the after-piece. For 

the characters, see the gazette ci joint*. M'lle 

is very unjustly condemned. She had more of truth, 
of nature and feeling, but less of vehement action, 
which is the taste of the day. 

23. Rose 7. At 9 came in Lawson and sat an 
hour. He will take charge of all I can send you. 
Eight louis in dictionaries ! I think you will be 



1 Probably for King. 

z For Friedrich d'or. A former gold coin of Prussia, worth about $4. 

3 Francjois Joseph Talma (1763-1826) was the greatest tragedian of his time. He was a 
favorite with Napoleon and accompanied him to Erfurt in 1808 and to Dresden in 1813. 

4 For ci-joint. Literally, here joined ; hence, herewith. 



43 6 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

rasassied 1 , yet I am greatly tempted to add Moreri and 
Bayle, twelve volumes folio, for 4 louis ! At 1 1 to 
the Prefecture de Police 2 \ to demand passport for Com- 
piegne. What business have I at Compiegne ? Why, 
hussy, there is the Emperor, and the King of West- 
phalia, &c. But they had nothing to do with it, and 

said I must send a petition to the Due. of 3 . 

To Paschaud's T / 2 hour. To Loigerot's, and walked 
an hour with Madame and M'lle in the Thuleries 4 , 
where left them. To a bookseller's, Rue des Noegres 5 , 
and bought the "Codes Napoleon" 6 , five volumes, and 
a book for Gampy, in all 13 francs. Home. Bro. and 
mjolk for din. To Paschaud's at 7. Mr. Chabaud 
came in. Told my troubles about the Compiegne 
expedition, and he very kindly gave his advice and 
offered his aid, he being personally acquainted with the 

Due of . Home at 10. Br. came in and sat 

an hour. Sleepy. Bon soir. Had to-day invitation 
from Madame Robinson 7 to dine on Thursday, which 
accepted. 

24. Slept till y 2 p. 7. At 10 to Paschaud's, 
with whose aid wrote my petition (a letter) in French 
to Due d'Otrante, and an English letter to Chabaud, 



1 Another hybrid perfect participle made from the French verb rassasier, to satiate. Hence, 
I think you will be satiated. 

2 To the office of the police prefect. 

3 Otrante >. 

4 So in the MS. For Tuileries. 

5 This word is doubtful, being very obscure in the MS. Could it stand for Rue des Nigres, 
Street of the Negroes >. 

6 Napoleon pushed forward the work begun by the National Assembly of collecting and 
fusing the laws and usages of the nation into an organic code, employing a body of eminent 
jurists. The '■'■Code Civil" was published in 1801, but the '■'■Code de Commerce," the " Code 
PenaV^ and the " Code d' Instruction Criminelle" occupied the commissioners till near the close 
of Napoleon's career. What is known as the " Code Napoleon ," which was made up of these 
four parts, at once took rank as one of the foremost legal productions of history. Napoleon 
declared that it would outlive his victories. 

7 For Robertson. 

437 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

q. v. Took them myself to Chabaud's, who, being 
out, left them. Lounged two hours at P.'s, and then 
we walked by thuleries 1 and boulevards to Madame 
Pelough's. Invitation to the marriage of Madame 
Pelough's daughter, on Thursday, to dine, &c. Mal- 
heureusement 1 , am engaged to Madame Robertson, but 
will go and see the ceremonies. To Fonzi's y. 
Home at 4, and at 5 to M'lle H. M. W.'s to dine. 
T le Baron de Humboldt 3 ; Mons. Haase, employee a 
la bib. imp. aux manuscripts* ; a French gentleman 
not named. Others came in after dinner. A very pleas- 
ant day. Mr. St. and M'lle Williams engaged me to 
go to their country seat at Montmorency on Sunday. 
Home at x / 2 p. 10, and now at y 2 p. 12 am about to 
couche. 

25. Rose y 2 p. 7. Breakfast and lounged an 
hour. To Paschaud's at 1 1 and till 1. Thence home 
and to Bib. ImperJ to see Haase, who promised to aid 
me about medals. What running I have had about 
that little rascal's 6 medals. Haase conducted me 
through the departments of gravures 1 and of manu- 
scripts. Showed me the most ancient Greek and Latin, 
which are of the fourth century. The original love- 
letters of Henry IV. to various of his mistresses. 
Patents, &c, by Charlemagne, &c. No medals can 

1 For Tuileries. 

2 Unfortunately. 

J Friedrich Heinrich Alexander, Baron Von Humboldt (1769-1859), the distinguished German 
scientist, one of the greatest of the world's great scholars. At this time he had returned from his 
remarkable journey through the Spanish colonies of Central and South America, and was engaged 
in writing and publishing a wonderful series of books, twenty-nine in all, which made his fame 
secure. In 1827 he removed to Berlin. 

4 Probably for employe a la Bibliotheque Imfiriale aux Manuscrits. Employed in the 
Imperial Library for Manuscripts. 

5 See Note 4. 

6 Meaning his grandson. 

7 Engravings. 

438 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

be had there but antiques, and those in soufre 1 ; too 
fragile and too dull of appearance to suit Gampy. I 
got, however, an address to one from whom, it is said, 
something in his way may be had. But my reputation 
is gone. Everywhere announced as a numismatician. 
I shift it all on you. It is you, and not me, who are 
scientific in medals. Home for y 2 hour, and to the 
bath, 36 sous. Bro. mjolk for din. To Vanderlyn's 
to tak. sh. to lav. z ; thence to Pelough's to meet 
Paschaud. They were all so busy preparing and 
signing contracts, &c, for the marriage, which is to 
take place to-morrow, that I stole off, for which I 
shall have a quarrel with P'd*. Home at 8. Went 
out and bought 1 5 francs of writing paper. Hungry 
and took four eggs raw. Cocoa with water made 
supper. 

16. Lev. 7, but very sleepy and heated, as if I had 
drank two bottles vin, though I had drank nothing 
but water. It must have been the four yolks of eggs. 

At 10 came in Mr. , the commis 4 of Madame 

Paschaud, to see about packing up your books. I was 
astonished to see the mass when put together. At least 
four cubic feet. But alas ! the greater part worthless 
stuff, which has been imposed on me in different 
places. We resolved, at length, to transport the 
whole to Paschaud's, and there have the inventory and 
the packing. At 1 1 to Paschaud's ; there learned that 



1 Sulphur. 

z Lav. for laver, to wash. The sentence may then mean: To Vanderlyn's to take shirt 
to be washed. 

3 For Madame Paschaud. 

4 Clerk. 

439 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr. 

Mr. le Chev. 1 Chabaud had not made my application 
for Compiegne, learning the arrival of His Majesty of 
Westphalia. Posted off to see the Comte de Fursten- 
stein ; out. To the King of Westphalia; out. But 
there was the Count de F., who gave me rendezvous 
for 9 to-morrow morning. The King leaves town 
this day ! Back to Paschaud's, and thence with the 
Chev. and Madame P., in his voiture aux noces 2 , i. e. y 
to the house of Madame Pelough, mere de M'lle 
Thelusson, la fiancees 1 . To the Mayor's office, where 
the civil marriage was performed. Very simple. 
Thence to the pastor of the Protestant church, Mr. 

, a man of very prepossessing appearance and 

manners. The cereniy relig. 4 was performed in a most 
impressive manner. M'lle is Protestant. Thence left 
the parties and went home. Was asked to the wed- 
ding dinner, but engaged to Madame Robertson. To 
Mrs. Robertson's at x / 2 P- 5- T: M'e Tone, widow 
of the Irish general, an interesting woman ; Mr. 

, senateur s and sa niece; le Baron de , 

and Mr. Vanderlyn. The family of Evans detained 
by an accident to the father ; a fall and broken knee ! 
A very pleasant party, Madame Robertson engaged 
to dine on Monday. Off at x / 2 p. 9 and to Pelough's, 
where found the whole party, about twenty-five, still 
at the dinner table. Very gay. Songs, music, and 
afterward dancing. Off at */£ p. 12; and now, at 1, 

I For Monsieur le Chevalier. 

X In his carriage (voiture) to the wedding (aux noces). Possibly meant for in his wedding 
carriage. 

J For la fiancee. The affianced lady. 

4 For la ceremonie religieuse. The religious ceremony. 

J For s'enateur. Senator. 

44O 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

you ought to be much obliged to me for writing, 
seeing I must be up at 6. 

27. Rose at x / 2 p. 6, quite refreshed. At 9 to 
le Comte de Furstenstein. He was with the King, 
and not visible. Asked at the King's for the chamber- 
lain du jour. 1 ; not yet visible. Home, about \ x / 2 
miles. On the way, left note for Loigerot and called 
at Menutzi's ; not visible, and could make no 
rendezvous to-day. At 10 to P.'s, and thence to 
Comte de F. He was still with S. M. z Went there. 
A crowd of grandees ; was nevertheless received by le 
Comte de F., who told me that he had delivered my 
letter to the E. and K. ? That all hands were going to 
Anvers 4 , and no reply could be expected till their 
return, 15 May. Voila\ twenty days more of spider 
life. Thence to Paschaud's for y 2 hour and thence 
to Loigerot's. A tale of distress. Home at 1. At 2 
to Pelough's to see the new pair. All very well. 
Asked to dine, but am engaged to Swediaur. On way 
home recon. Mus. 6 1 2 francs but good. Watc. perd. 1 ; 
not discovered till got home. Back again in the 
utmost distress. It was restored sans facon et sans 
reward 8 . Descbams,je te scai gre 9 . To Paschaud's at 
4. T Picard et ux. y the new pair. On to Swediaur; 
y Lelande. Off at yi p. 8 and to the Theatre des 



1 For chambellan du jour. Day chamberlain. 

2 For sa Majeste. His Majesty. 

3 Emperor and King. See note 2, page 432. 

4 The French name of Antwerp, Belgium. 

5 Behold! 

6 For rencontre. Muse. Rencounter. Muse. 

7 For watch perdu. Watch lost. 

8 Without ceremony and without reward. 

9 For Deschamps,;'e te sais gre. Deschamps, I am pleased with thee. 



44I 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Varietes 1 to meet the family Peloughs, &c; but the 
theatre being full, no place ; came home. Visit to- 
day from that amiable man le Chev. Chabaud L'atour 2 . 
M. Arnold, le commis\ carried all my (your) books to 
Paschaud's. Shall move to-morrow. 

2. Din. chez Swediaur. Broke elec. apparat. 
Chez Paschaud at 9 pour un moment*. Home to pack 
up. 

28. Ran about on brief errands several hours. 
Din. bro. mfl s . At 7 to Pelough's. Y Paschaud. 
Reproaches for non din? Home. Took voit. 7 and 
transported j my baggage and took my quarters. 

29. Tres cont. 8 with my new quarters. Din. 
chez nous. T uncle of Adelle 9 . The snuff-box 
which plays a tune of fifteen minutes ; soft, sweet 
music. Promene la soiree 10 . 

30. Din. chez M'lle Williams. 

Paris, May 1, 18 10. Din. chez M'lle Williams. 

2. Chez M'e Robinson. 

3. Chez nous. 

Bury, Val." de Montmorency 12 , May 4, 18 10. 



1 For le Theatre des Varietes. To-day this theatre is called simply Les Varietes. The 
Varieties; as the name implies, a vaudeville theatre. 

2 For le Chevalier Chabaud-Latour. The reference is to Antoine Georges Francois, Baron 
de Chabaud-Latour (1769-1852), a French politician and statesman. 

3 The clerk 

4 For a moment. 

5 For diner, brod et mj'blk. 

6 For non diner, which is bad French for de n avoir pas dine. Not having dined. 

7 For voiture. Carriage. 

8 For tres content. Much pleased. 

9 For Adele. 

10 For Je me promene la soiree (or pendant la soiree or le soir). Go walking in the evening. 

11 For vallee. Valley. 

12 Montmorency is a town in the department of Seine-et-Oise, about nine miles north of 
Paris. On account of its magnificent site and its forest, it has long been one of the favorite prom- 
enades of Parisians. Its celebrity has come largely from the fact that Jean Jacques Rousseau, the 
French philosopher and writer, lived near there for a fevr years. The Countess d 'Epinay, a 
great friend of Rousseau, had there offered him a cottage in order to hinder, if possible, his 
return to Geneva. This place is well known under the name of the Hermitage. 

442 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Arrived at 3 en voit av 1 M'lle W. and Mr. and 
Madame La Harpe. Din. 5 Ap. din. prom, seul le 
village de jusu a le foret^. Couche 11. 

5. Rose 6. Prom, seul le village de 

jusqu 1 a 8 h. At 1 1 prom, av Mr. S. par le village de 

4 to the side of the mountain, where met M'lle 

S. and Mr. and Madame La Harpe. Ascend the 
mountain and walk till 3. M'lle W. much fatigued. 
Mr. Froissart arrives this P. M. and dines. 

6. Rain in the morning. Cold northerly wind 
three days past. Mr. et Madame La Harpe part.'' to 
Paris. This is the neighborhood in which Rousseau 
lived and died 6 . The trees where was given le baiser 
fatal 1 ; the house of Eloise ; the walks they frequented. 
Every spot hereabout is consecrated by his memory. 



1 For en voiture avec. In a carriage with. 

2 For apres dine je me promenai seul au village de jusqu a la foret. After dinner I 

walked alone to the village of as far as the forest. 

3 For Je me promenai seul au village de jusqu a huit heures. Walked alone to the 

village of — until 8 o'clock. 

4 For At II je me promenai avec Monsieur S. par le village de. At II walked with Mr. S. 
through the village of. 

5 For Mr. and Madame La Harpe partirent, etc. Mr. and Mrs. La Harpe left for Paris. 

6 This statement is hardly true. Rousseau lived and wrote for some time at Montmorency, 
a place about nine miles north from Paris, but he died at Ermenonville, a town further north 
of the capital. 

7 Literally, the fatal kiss. The allusion is to the novel entitled" La Nouvelle Heloise " ("The 
New Heloise," for it will be remembered that the celebrated Peter Abelard, 1079-1142, had 
had his beloved Heloise who fell and rose again), which Rousseau wrote during his retirement at 
the Hermitage. This novel is written in the form of letters and describes the amours of a man 
of low position called Saint Preux and a girl of rank named Julie. This romance is one of the 
significant works in the history of French literature by reason of the immense vogue which it 
had and the remarkable influence which it exerted on feminine Europe in the eighteenth century. 
The first part of the romance may be said to center about what Burr calls the fatal kiss. Saint 
Preux and Julie meet one night under the trees, not of the valley of Montmorency as Burr inti- 
mates, but rather on the shores of Lake Geneva in Switzerland, and Julie loses her virtue. But 
she regains it as had Abelard's beloved Heloise ; hence the significance of Rousseau's title, " The 
New Heloise." Burr's reference to the trees and walks of Montmorency and " the house of 
Eloise " have, however, a meaning. While writing his romance Rousseau had become greatly 
enamored of Madame d'Epinay's sister-in-law, Madame d'Houdetot, a matron of thirty years, 
not at all pretty. But Rousseau, who was applying his sensitive mind to the analysis of love, 
fell deeply in love with the first object he encountered, namely Madame d'Houdetot. He says 
of her: " I saw my Julie in Madame d'Houdetot, and soon I saw no longer anything but 
Madame d'Houdetot, but clothed with all the perfections with which I had just endowed the idol 
of my heart." Rousseau speaks in his " Confessions " of a meeting one night with Madame 
d'Houdetot out under the magnificent trees of Montmorency, in which there was given what he 
calls " ce baiser funeste" that fatal kiss. 



443 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Montmorency or rather Bury in the valle de 
Montmorency, May 7, 18 10. Rose at 6. Cold, 
chilly, raining. At 9 set off for town. Mons. Frois- 
sart en volt. 1 with M'lle W. I, from choice, having 
something to say to Mr. S., in chaise with him. 
Arrived x / 2 p. 10. After embrass. of mon aim. amie M'e 
Pelough 2 , off to Paschaud's. The diablesse 1 has gone 
to the country, too ! Pure vengeance. Four times 
have I walked there (j4 league) to-day and at 9 this 
evening she had not arrived. In the A. M. went to 
make peace with Mrs. Robertson. She is too good 
to harbor malice and received me very kindly. Staid 
two hours, reading over papers of business and talk- 
ing of matrimony, on which head we have grave quarrels, 
for I am dead against it. " What !" says she, with 
temper and astonishment, " would you advise me to," 
&c. " Madame^ soy ezindep.,' 4 &c. Took soup there, 
and parted friends. On my return, called on Captain 
Lawson. He was all in the bustle of packing up and 
going off in x / 2 hour. At 8, however, this evening, 
he called to say that he should not go till 6 in the 
morning of to-morrow, and I am now actuellement s 
writing to my Juno and Minerva. Excusez, Madame 6 . 
Called also on Swediaur. 

Paris, June 8, 18 10. Rose 6. At 10 to Roi 
West* I 1 pursuant to appointment of Comte Fursten- 

1 For en voiture. In the carriage. 

2 For After V embraaement of mon aimie amie, Madame Pelough. (Should be mon amie bien 
aimee.) After the embrace of my beloved friend, Madame Pelough. 

3 The she-devil. 

4 For " Madame, sojtex in dip end ante.'"'' " Madame, be independent." 
j At this very time. 

6 Excuse [me], Madame. 

7 For Roi de IVeitfhalie. King of Westphalia, Jerome Bonaparte. 



444 



Private jf o ur n a I of Aaron Burr . 

stein. Waited an hour; not received. To Chabaud's, 
whom saw x / 2 hour. To Madame Robertson's, one 
hour. To Due d'Alberg's ; out. Home. At 4 to 
Madame Paschaud's ; met Josephine with a note to 
me. T dined. To the opera at 7. En entrant le 
pat err e Monsr on vous demande! ' Was placed well. 
" Les Pretendus" z and " Persee et Andromede " 3 . The 
scenery in the latter a perfect enchantment. 

9. Rose 7. To Comte de Slubrendorf 's at 11. 
To ma pet. monstre* to buy les pretendus z for you. To 
the Lyon. An American had called but would not 
leave his name. To Madame Paschaud's ; out. To 
Madame Loigerot's x / 2 hour. To Paschaud's again ; 
she came in ; Y / 2 hour. To Vanderlyn's. T: 
Madame de Castro and Madame Vele or Vellia ; 
charmante s . Dined with Vanderlyn. Sor. at ]4 p- 6 
to the Hotel du Ville 6 to see the preparations 7 ; 18 
francs for a place in the window for to-morrow! 
Caused*, &c. To the Ambigu Theatre**. The " Mus- 
ico-Manie 10 ' et " Les Highlanders." On entering, a 
gentleman bowed, called my name, and said he had seen 
me in Philadelphia in '96. Between the pieces went to 



I For en entrant dans le parterre on me dit, u Monsieur, on vous demande." On entering 
the pit some one said to me," Sir, some one is asking for you." 
Z For " Les Pr'etendus." " The Engaged Couple." 

3 " Perseus ( Persee) and Andromeda." 

4 For ma petite monstre. My little feminine monster. 

5 Charming (woman). 

6 For THotel de Ville. The City Hall. This building has played a great part in the dif- 
ferent French revolutions, being the ordinary rallying-point of the democratic party as opposed 
to the royal palaces, the Louvre and the Tuileries. The present edifice was rebuilt after 1871, 
having been burned by the Communists in that year. 

7 The preparations making for the parade on the morrow. 

8 Probably means chatted, etc. This hybrid verb, which we have met before, is made from 
the French verb causer, to chat. 

9 Probably for L'Ambigu-Comique. Literally, the Ambiguous-Comic. This was an old 
theatre founded in 1767, where one may still hear dramas, melodramas, and patriotic pieces. 

10 La Musicomanie means the passion for music. 

445 



Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

the Jardin Turc 1 . T Ardefredi, now Madame Robin. 
Home at y p. 10. 

1 8. Couche 12. Rose 7. To Fonzi's at 9. 
Home at 10. Engaged to dine with F. At 1 1 came 
in Borgo with the note and the outline of projet 1 , trans- 
lated to my satisfaction. He took them home to 
copy and was to send them to me at 3, which he did 
not. At 1 to Paschaud's ; y two hours. Took cir- 
cuit home by Pont Neuf or Neuve 3 . At 4 to Borgo's 
away in la Rue de Champs Elisees 4 ; out. To Fonzi's 
at 5. T: A young handsome Neapolitan Baron and 
Vanderlyn ; also a Spaniard. Much amused with the 
Baron. To Madame P.'s ; out. Again at y p. 10 
and staid an hour /. a tet s . 

19. Rose 6. At 9 to Dr. Swediaur's, calling on 
Madame P. on the way, but not see her. Went with 
the Dr. in his cabriole to pass the day with Mr. La 
Harpe. T: Madame Bergere or some such name and 

her two daughters ; M'lle , artiste 6 and M'lle 

, botanist e 7 ; Mr. , brother of Madame 

La Harpe. Walked through his park and gardens. 
Eat fruit. Strolled an hour alone in the village. 
Walked an hour with L. H. Din. 4. At y p. 7 to 
the village of Schioux to see the dancing, &c, with 



1 The Turkish Garden. Probably a restaurant for theater-goers. 

2 Project, plan. 

3 The former is correct. It means new bridge. This is one of the great bridges over the 
Seine. 

4 For Rue des Champs-Elysees. Literally, the street of the Elysian Fields. It is ordi- 
narily called simply Champs-Elysees. This magnificent street, with a sort of park on both sides, 
is now probably the finest street of Paris, extending more than a mile from the Place de la 
Concorde, formerly Place de la Revolution, to Napoleon's Arch of Triumph at the Star 
(V Etoile). 

5 For tete-a-tete. Literally, head to head. 

6 Artist. 

7 Botanist. 



446 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

which was much amused. Home at y 2 p. 9, calling 
on Madame P. on the way, who was out, to which cir- 
cumstance you may ascribe these two pages. Nothing 
from Borgo. 

Paris, July 1 or 3, 1810. To Fonzi's at 9 ; y 
two hours. He gave me ticket for the Athene} 1 , this 
being the anniversary. Came home to dress and found 
note from Madame Paschaud with another ticket and 
inviting me to accompany her. So ran to Fonzi and 
apologized. Thence away to Madame Paschaud. 
She thought it too late and the weather too hot. We 
pouted and pouted. Riz et lait for din z . 

6 or 7. A very busy day. At 10 called on 
Borgo ; out. An hour with Fonzi ; x / 2 with Madame 
P. To Vanderlyn's ; took him out to courir 1 . To 
the Hotel des Invalids 4 to pay my respects to the Due 
de Montobello who lies there in state. Lamps 
innumerable ; hung with black ; inscriptions, devices. 
But what I was most desirous of seeing was the pro- 
cess of getting a soul out of purgatory. There was only 
one priest at work. Thence to the panorama of le 
bat. de IVagram*. Very beautiful, but not equal to 
that of Gibraltar which I saw in London. Thence 
to the Abbaye St. Martin to see the depot des arts et 

1 For Athene e. Athensum. The society of Paris known under the name of Musee took 
that of Lyc'ee in 1794, and finally that of Athene e des Arts (Athensum of the Arts) in 1803. 

2 Rice and milk for dinner. 

J Literally to run; here to gad abroad, to ramble. 

4 For L'Hotel des Invalides. Literally house of the invalids. This is a military hospital or 
soldiers' home which was founded by Louis XIV. There is a well known war museum in con- 
nection with it. Here in the Church of St. Louis, beneath the conspicuous gilded dome, lie to- 
day the ashes of Napoleon the Great, and above the door of the crypt in which the sarcophagus 
is placed are seen these words taken from the Emperor's will : " je desire que mes cendres re- 
posent sur les bords de la Seine, au milieu de ce peuple fran^ais que f ' ai tant aim'e. u I desire 
that my ashes repose on the banks of the Seine, in the midst of this French people that I have 
loved so much." 

5 For la bataille de IVagram. The battle of Wagram, a battle won by the French under 
Napoleon over the Austrians in July, 1809. 

447 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

metiers 1 . Thence home for x / 2 hour to smoke segar 

and repose. Then to , a sort of gourman 

restaurateur*) where dined ; 4 francs 10 sous each. 
There we parted for an hour, Vanderlyn to see Flor- 
entine and I to M'lle Prevost. Found Vanderlyn at 
Fonzi's and thence we went to Tivoli 3 . Les danses ; 
les puppet ; les ombres Cbinois ; les tight rope sauts ; 
les grimaces ; les feu d y artifice*. Home at 1 1 and at 
12 am about to couche. 

8. Rose at 6. At 10 to the club, to read 
gazettes and hear the news, which, I find, is of some 
consequence to me, if, indeed, anything be of any con- 
sequence. To Borgo's ; out. To Le Conseil to 
Guerre s to see the trial of Victor Hughes 6 . Y two 
hours. To Vanderlyn's ; out. Home at 4. Dressed, 
and out to dine with Swediaur. The first time since 
the fracture of the machine electrique 1 . On the way 



1 The Abbey (or, as it is better called, leprieur'e, the priory) of St. Martin. Here was 
established in 1794 an independent museum called Le Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, the 
Conservatory of the Arts and Trades. Burr speaks of the collection as a depot (should be 
depot), a deposit or depository. 

2 Gourman stands for gourmand, but should follow the noun. The phrase means gluttonous 
eating-house keeper. To judge by the price paid by Burr for this dinner, 4 francs 10 sous, it 
would seem that the word gourmand should refer to him. 

3 The ancient Tivoli Garden is no more, having been buried long ago beneath 6ve-story 
buildings and straight streets. A neighboring street, however, consecrates its memory. There 
were two Tivolis. The 6rst, known under the name of Jardin Boutain, was, under the Direc- 
tory, the rendezvous of the younger reactionists called Clichiens. The second Tivoli, occupying 
the same site, became a celebrated concert-garden where all sorts of amusements could be had. 
It became especially well known under the Restoration. 

4 The dances; the puppets ; the Chinese shadows ; the tight-rope leapings ; the grimaces; 
the fire-works. (The grimaces made a great impression on Burr, for he writes the word in the 
Journal in capital letters.) 

5 For le conseil de guerre. The war council. 

6 For Victor Hugues, a famous French soldier (1761-1826), who fought the English with 
great success in the West Indies and was notorious for his cruelties, becoming known as 
the " Robespierre of the West Indies." His corsairs were amongthe chief causes of the rupture 
between the United States and France in 1798. Under Bonaparte, Hugues was governor of 
Cayenne. In January, 1809, he surrendered the colony to the English, was accused of incapac- 
ity and treason, and was tried by court martial in Paris. The verdict, not rendered till 1814, 
was an acquittal. 

7 For machine electrique. The electrical machine. These two words are by no means 
badly written in the MS., and yet in Davis's reprint of the Journal the word " limb " is substi- 
tuted for machine electrique! The reference here is to the electrical apparatus which Burr had 
broken, as mentioned in his Journal under date of April 27th. 



448 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

called at Paschaud's. T M. Chabaud, who, to my 
great regret, will leave town on Monday. At 
Swediaur's met again le Dr. Dirette, or some name 
near that. He says he will make me to be heard. 
Home at x / 2 p. 8. Madame P. promised to meet me 
here. She had been here but gone. 

io\ Rose 6. At 9 to Fonzi's. He gave me 
tickets for the Athenee 1 ^ whose grand exhibition was 
this day. Home at T / 2 p. 11; found note from 
Madame P. offering ticket and asking me to accom- 
pany. Most certainly. Dressed as fast as I could 
and off to Fonzi's to apologize ; thence to Paschaud's. 
It was y 2 p- 12. Found her and Lou. dressed and 
looking rather sad. She thought it too late and too 
hot to go and coldly counselled me to go, which I 
declined. Parted rather boudisly*. Home and so lost 
the Athenee and disappointed Madame et sa U. 4 

Hiatus valde deflendus s ! 

19. Called at Duke d'Alberg's. He had 
returned, but reported not at home. Left word that 
I would call at 1 1 to-morrow. 

20. Called on the Duke at 11. The porter 
said again that he was out ; that he had reported my 
name and message but received no answer. Not 
much like the look of this. Considered myself as 
denied and the last hope of communication cut off. 
On Monday, 9th, called on Mr. Roux to ask whether 

1 It will be observed that the entry under this date is substantially the same as that under 
July 2-3. The Journal was often carelessly written. 

2 The word is here spelled correctly. 

3 Burr here makes an English adverb from the French adjective boudeuse, sulky. 

4 For Madame and her maid (Jungfru I ). 

5 Latin. Exceedingly lamentable gap. (The reader will notice that the Journal skips from 
the 10th to the 19th.) 

449 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr. 

he would give me rendezvous to peruse with me a 
memoir e 1 which I had been writing. He asked me to 
breakfast on Wednesday for the purpose. On 
Wednesday went, and we passed several hours to- 
gether. He made some civil remarks, and proposed 
that I should write to the Minister to ask audience, 
which I declined. 

21. Called on Duke d'Alberg at 10, and was 
received as usual. He apologized for my several 
disappointments. Had heard nothing of my note to 
Maret 2 . Looked at my memorial, &c. Went off to 
Argaud to get it copied. To Madame P. 

22. All day at work with Argaud, getting my 
thing nicely copied. Called on Madame P. On 
Roux ; out. On Madame Robinson 5 ; out. Vander- 
lyn gone to the country. Dined chez nous for the first 
time in a month ; for, perceiving that Madame meant 
to make no charge, I would not be a charge. 

23. Up at 5. At 8 to Argaud's. The thing 
was done. Sent messenger with a note to the Due to 
advise him, and that I would call at 10. At 10 
called. We went over the thing. He approved. 
Wrote note to Maret and I took the packet and left 
it. Voila finiS S. MS will probably read it this day. 

To Madame Paschaud's, where met , an 

Italian musician ; M'e , and , a young 

Genevois 6 . Much talk. The former is to ciserone 1 me 



1 For m'emoire. Memorial. 

2 Hugo Bernard Maret, Due de Bassano (1763-1839), was a French statesman and diplomat. 

3 Robertson i 

4 For Le voila fini. There, it is finished. 

5 For Sa Majesti. His Majesty. 

6 For Genevois. 

7 For cicerone. To guide. The word has been introduced into English. 



450 



Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr. 

to see strange things. Evening walked with Madame 
P. to Luxembourg 1 ; thence to Vanderlyn's, who had 
not returned. 

Tuesday, 25th it must be. Rose 6. M'lle 
Catherine came in and took breakfast with me. (No, 
that was yesterday.) Sor. at 10 (but just before Van- 
derlyn came in) to Terrien La Riviere's, where y 2 
hour. To Mr. N.'s ]/ 2 hour. Home, and at 4 to 
Vanderlyn's to dinner. Home. To Fonzi's. Home. 
Paid commiss V for three trips, 2 francs 5 sous. 

25. (I have looked at the almanac; it is 25 
July.) Couche 12. Rose 7. Settled with Jeanette 
for 1 mo. and paid her 18 francs. Omitted: On my 
return home on Saturday last about 2 P. M. found 

note from saying that une personnel to whom I 

was unknown wished much to see me, and gave me 
rendezvous au Thuleries 4 on Monday. Doubting a 
little, hating mystery, and desiring to know at least the 
sex of the personne, wrote to have further renseign- 
ments s i which got, and on Monday went to the place 
and actually met une tres aimable personne. Au soir la 
meme made me visit chez moi 6 and on Tuesday returned 
it chez elle' '. 

25 continued. At 11 came in Vanderlyn. Went 

1 This may mean the Luxembourg Garden, one of the most beautiful pleasure resorts of 
Paris, or else the Palace. The Luxembourg Palace has had a varied history. It was con- 
structed from 161 5 to 1620 for Marie de M^dicis, widow of Henry IV. Various princes and 
princesses dwelt there up to the Revolution. The Convention made a prison of it, and it be- 
came in 179; the Directorial Palace, then in 1799 the Palace of the Consulate up to the time 
when Napoleon went to live in the Tuileries, in February, 1800. Afterwards it was occupied 
by the Senate, by the Chamber of Peers and again by the Senate, under the second Empire. 
Since then it has been used by the Prefecture of the Seine, and again by the Senate. 

2 For commissionnairc. Porter. 
5 A person. 

4 For aux Tuiltrics. At the Tuileries. Burr has a hard time with this word. 

5 For renseignements. Information. 

6 Met a very amiable person. In the evening the same made me a visit at my home, etc. 

7 At her home. 

451 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

together to Fonzi's. Thence to Abel, m d de Bas 1 , 
where we parted. Came home and thence to the read- 
ing room where I am abonned 1 for 6 francs per month. 
To Vanderlyn's to dine. Strolled with him through 
the Luxembourg 5 . Parted. To Madame Paschaud's. 
Home at 8. Did nothing till n. Spent 5 livres 4 in 
nothings. If it had been nothings for you or Gam 5 , 
it would have been something. 

26. The saint, my neighbor, waked me punc- 
tually at 6, as I had requested. To the bath, which, 
at the cheapest rate, costs 40 sous. Having some 
very long courses** in view, took cabriolet. To M. le 
Montey, near the invalids 7 . There wrote note to the 
Min. de la pol. general*, asking audience. M. le 
Montey took charge of the note. To the Min. d'Ex- 
terieur 9 to see Roux ; not there. To M. Roux's ; 
out. To Pelasges prison 10 where saw J. Swan ; Mr. 

Lane, of New York, and Mr. Browne, of . 

Lane has been there three years. My cabriolet man 
set me down at the Pont Neuf. Paid him 5 livres for 
three hours he had been in my employ, and he was 

1 For marchand de has. Stocking merchant. 

2 A hybrid verb from the French verb abonner, to subscribe. Here it means, where I have 
a subscriber's ticket. 

3 The Luxembourg Garden. 

4 A livre is equivalent to a franc. 

5 For Gampy. 

6 Jaunts. 

7 For Les Invalides, the soldiers' home heretofore described. 

8 For Ministre de la police generate. Minister of the general police. 

9 Probably for Ministere de /' Extirieur. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs of France had until 
1790 the title la Ministere des Affaires Etrangeres, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. In that 
year a change was made to the more convenient title, la Ministere des Relations Exterieures, 
the Ministry of External Relations. In 1794 this latter title was abolished, but in 1814 the 
department got back its ancient name which it had held down to 1790. 

10 This was the prison known as Sainte-PeUagie. It was founded about 1665 as a convent. 
In 1792 it was converted into a prison for both sexes. From 1797 to 1834 a was more especially 
devoted to prisoners for debt, and, under the first Napoleon, to political prisoners. Here 
Bonaparte incarcerated such persons as displeased him, as not being in sympathy with his 
projects. It is said that at one period the Emperor threw into this prison, within the space of 
a few days, 500 persons whom he regarded as dangerous. 

452 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

content. To Madame Paschaud's. To Fonzi's, 
where met Vanderlyn. I shall never get done with 
Fonzi. The morning was warm and it is now raining. 
Din. cbez moi. Bro. mjlk\ Mem.: To tell you of the 
Pantheon 2 ; Notre Dame ; l'Abbaye St. Martin, where 
is the depot des Arts et des Inventions Meckan. 1 ; Tivoli 

Jardin 4 ; 1' Hermitage 5 ; College de 6 . 

27. Rose 7. Am trying to get rid of the use 
of sugar and coffee gradually. Sor. % p. 9 to Roux, 
whom found ; but no news. Cold civility. To Due 
d'Alberg. He has left town for three weeks. Forgot : 
On Thursday called on M'r Le Montey, the Prefer., 
to ask him to introduce me to the new Minister of 
Police 7 . He had offered to introduce to the former 
(Fauchet) 8 , but got it through another channel. He 
declined, but offered to present a note if I would write 
one, asking audience, which is the mode 9 . Wrote note 
and left it with Le Montey to present. Shall never 



1 For br'id och mj'ilk. Bread and milk. 

2 The Pantheon (Le Pantheon) is another building with a varied history. It was constructed 
between 1764 and 1790 as a church and dedicated to Ste. Genevieve, patron saint of Paris. In 
1791 the Constituent Assembly converted it into a temple called Pantheon, which was destined 
for the burial of great men, as is indicated by the inscription upon its facade: " Aux grands 
hommes la patrie reconnaissante," " The grateful fatherland to the great men." It was given 
back to worship in 1806, transformed anew into a temple at the revolution of 1830, and again into 
a church in 1851, and since 1885 has been devoted to its early purpose of containing the tombs 
of great men. Victor Hugo's remains lie here. 

3 For Depot des Arts et des Inventions M'echaniques. Depository or Museum of Arts and 
Mechanical Inventions. This was mentioned a few pages back as the Conservatory of Arts and 
Trades. 

4 See page 448, note 3. 

5 For r Ermitage. In English it is known as the Hermitage. It was the name of Rousseau's 
cottage near Montmorency. See page 442, note 12. 

6 Probably the reference is to the institution now known as le College de France. This was 
founded about 1530 by Francis I. and soon became known as le College des Trois Langues, 
College of the Three Languages (Greek, Latin, Hebrew). Under Louis XIII. and for some 
years thereafter it had the name of le College Royal, In the time of the Revolution its name was 
changed to le College National, which Napoleon again altered (in the year XIII., about 1806) to le 
College Imperial. This was its name at the time of Burr's visit. Later, under the Restoration, 
it was changed back to le College Royal, and finally to le College de France, which name it bears 
to-day. 

7 Anne Jean Marie Rene Savary, Due de Rovigo. See note further on. 

8 Joseph Fouche, Due d'Otrante. 

9 Fashion. 

453 



Private J o u rn a I of Aaron Burr . 

hear more of it. From d'Alberg's to Fonzi's. 
Thence home to repose, smoke segar. At i sor. to 
the reading-room. To Madame Pas. Met her going 
out. Gave me letter from Chabaud, in reply to one I 
wrote him a week ago. He has gone home ; (Nis- 
mes). Ten days ago wrote also to Liining. To Dr. 
Swediaur's, who asked me to dine, but was engaged 
with Vanderlyn. To Mrs. Robertson's, who also 
asked me to dine. To Naner ; out. Left note which 
I had written in case of not finding him. To Vander- 
lyn's to dine. After dinner together to Rue Hyacinthe 1 
to see M'lle ; out. To St. Martin's to get my razor. 
To le coiffeur s z . To Fonzi's ; out. Home with 
Vanderlyn. Made ourselves a dish of coffee and at 
10 he went off. Now, Madame, shall tell you a 
secret. Despairing of any success in my project, a few 
days ago asked passport to go to the United States ? 
which was refused. Asked one to go to Rouen, to see 
M'e Langworthy, which was granted, to " circuler pour 
un an /" J which was more than I asked or wanted. 
Was told that I could not have a passport to go out 
of the empire. Me voila prisonier d'etat et presque sans 
sous!* My different walks to-day amount to fourteen 
miles, and all for nothing. This evening received a 
note from Swan, enclosing will for my advice. 

28. This being the saint's day (one of them, for 
there is a saint for every name) of my friend Madame 



1 Hyacinth street. 

2 A coiffeur is a hairdresser. 

3 To circulate for a year. 

4 For Me voila prisonnier d'etat et presque sans un sou. Here I am a state's prisoner and 
almost without a cent. 



454 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Paschaud, went to dine with her. There were both 

families. The young Genevois, the mus. 1 Mr. , 

and two vacant places ; guests bidden, but came not. 
We arranged a party for Versailles, which, however, I 
thought mere talk. Home at 9. At ^ p. 10 a spe- 
cial messenger from Vanderlyn proposing to visit St. 
Germain's mardi le p z , to which agreed. 

29. Rose 6. Another proposition to go to 
Versailles. Went to P.'s ; made a bad apology. 
Abandoned her party and went with Vanderlyn to St. 
Germain's 5 . Visited the Marli works 4 . Walked also 
to a village, formerly a strong town as defence against 
the Normans, one league below St. Germain's. The 
rain detained us all night. 

30. We staid to dine, and then took pot de 
chambre s back. This vile name is given to a one-horse 
chair, with two rows of seats, holding four or six pas- 
sengers inside and one or two outside. We were nine 
in that in which I returned. You pay about 40 sous 
for that distance (six leagues), but there is no fixed 
price for anything in Paris. You are not always safe in 
offering half the asked price. Those on board paid 
different prices, from 20 up to 50 sous. The forest 
and the terras 6 are the objects of curiosity at St. Ger- 

1 For musician. 

2 Tuesday the 9th. 

3 Saint-Germain-en-Laye is meant. This a town about seven miles north of Versailles and 
ten miles west-northwest of Paris. There was there a magnificent chateau founded by Charles V. 

4 About five miles north of Versailles is a hamlet called Marly-La-Machine. Here was estab- 
lished in 1676 the celebrated hydraulic machine known as the Marly machine which, for many 
years, furnished Versailles with water. Rennequin Sualem, a simple mechanic, was the origina- 
tor of it. His primitive apparatus was defective and was replaced by a more pretentious one in 
1804. This, which was built by the engineer Brunet, was also defective. In 1859 Dufrayer 
constructed there a masterpiece of hydraulic pumping which is still in use. 

5 Chamber-pot. 

6 For La Terrasse. The Terrace. This is a celebrated promenade more than a mile and a 
half in length on the edge of the magnificent forest of 8,000 acres and high above the Seine. It 
commands a superb view of the sinuous banks of the river and of the animated plain which its 
waters bathe. 

455 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

main's. On alighting at the Thullieres 1 , posted over 
to ma belle ami 1 , about one mile. Gods, how cold, 
chilling ! Not having said that I would be out all 
night, there was much inquiry and alarm. Finally it 
was discovered that I had been assassinated, and the 
maid had got all the particulars. La Saint e i was at 
work to get my soul out of purgatory, which she feared 
would be a long and hard job. But what devil can 
have got into Madame P.'s head ? Called at Fonzi's 
on my way from P.'s. His warmth and kindness 
recovered me a little from the shock of P.'s froideur 4 . 
31. Insomnia, but got up at j4 p- 6. Did noth- 
ing till 10, and then, did nothing till 12. To Stone's ; 
out, and said to be at the manufactory ; went thither 
and out again. Home. Then to Deschams 5 ; fortun- 
ately out. To Prevost, more luck ; out and all locked 
up. Ran great risks on my way home, but got home 
safe. Bought y 2 doz. wine, a little white Burgundy 
which pleases me much ; 15 sous the bottle. Bought 
casa 6 , 20 sous. Home at 3. Two eggs for din. I 
have been trying, for some time past, to get rid, grad- 
ually, of the enormous quantity of sugar which I use 
(5 francs per pound !) ; finding I made no progress, 
have given it up altogether, and this morning took tea, 
sans sucre 1 . Doing unpleasant things gradually is very 
great folly ; a protracted torment. 

1 Burr has tried hard this time to improve the spelling of this name, with what success the 
reader can judge. 

2 For ma belle amie. My beautiful lady friend. 

1 The woman saint. This name Burr gives to one of the maids on account of her seeming 
piety. 

4 Coldness. 

5 For Deschamps, the name of one of Burr's many female acquaintances. 

6 For German Kase, cheese > 

7 Without sugar. 

456 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Paris, August 2, 1810. At 1 1 a cruising; Virg. 
and T allemag? ; out. Tant mieux. z . To Fonzi's. To 
the changeurs 1 ; changed 3 guineas; they give 26:10, 
but cheat you out of 5 or 6 sous in the weight. To 
Deschamp's ; 8 livres. Staid an hour. To Swe- 
diaur's, where met Madame P., being the first time I 
have seen her since my miraculous reception on Mon- 
day. We were very civil but no more. She went off 
with her friend and I to Crede's. Thence to Vander- 
lyn's to dine. He was with his model, who is spoiled 
for that business, being enseignte 4 . After dinner to 
Quai Pelletier 5 to get razors set ; paid 3 livres for 
strop and parts. Thence to Rue Dare au marois 6 to 
find Howseal, a German interpreter, whom found and 
left for translation my letter to Cousin Jean Gotleib 7 . 
Then home, tired. Note : Left with Crede to put in 
post-office my letters to Menard, to Liming, to 
Menzzer, and a note to Swan. 

From 2 to 10. On Friday the 3d wrote Mr. E. 
Gris. 8 About same time to Liming, duplicate enclosed 
to Menzzer ; wrote also to our cousin John Gotlieb, 

and to Mr. (I'll think of his name presently), 

of Hamburg. On Saturday, 4th, passed the day at 
the Pelasgie 9 prison, aiding Mr. Swan to make his 

1 Probably for Virginie and V AUemagne or V Allemande. Virginia and Germany, or the 
German girl, two more of his chance acquaintances. 

2 So much the better. 

3 To the money-changer's. 

4 For enceinte. Pregnant. 

5 This quay has now been absorbed by the Quai de Gevres. 

6 Le Marais has long been the name of one of the quarters of Eastern Paris. It was built in 
the reign of Louis XIII. The numerous kitchen-gardens (marahhers) there in those days gave 
it the name which it still bears. Marais means marsh, or kitchen-garden ground. Au marais 
means in the Marais quarter. 

7 For Gottlieb. 

8 For Mr. Edward Griswold. 

9 The prison called Saint-Pelagie. See page 452, note 10. 

457 



Private f our n a I of Aaron Burr . 

will. On Sunday to Versailles, with Fonzi, Vander- 
lyn, and Hernandez. Called five leagues. Hired a 
coach for 14 livres to take us there and back. This 
and dinner made our expenses 6 francs 10 sous each. 
T Madame Fonzi. The gardens at Versailles are in 
a style of magnificence surpassing anything I have 
seen. Returned the same evening. Went, forgot 
what evening, to see Mr. Pierre's "Theatre Mechanique 
et Picturesque 1 and was much amused. He exhibits, 
like a scene in a theatre, a town, castle, or remarkable 
place, painted in the manner of panorama ; but you 
see carriages of all sorts, horses, men, women, children, 
dogs, cattle, all in motion like real life. Boats rowing 
and sailing. Sportsmen shoot ducks, and their dogs 
jump out of the boat, swim to the killed duck, and 
bring him on board. How Gampy would laugh and 
stare ! Another evening to the cosmorama, which is 
pictures (seen through camera obscura) of various 
antiquities. Balbec, the Coliseum of Rome, and one 
other, were pretty well executed. The rest execrable. 
On Monday, the 6th, called on Mr. Stone at his 
manufactory. He asked me to dine that day, which 
declined ; for Wednesday, to which, after some remon- 
strance, agreed. T: Miss Williams and le bon Mar- 
ron 2 , pres't du consistoire 1 , who was extremely civil. 
He engaged me to go with him the next day to hear 

the tryal 4 of , which excites much interest. 

Cards; lost 30 sous. Home at 11. Found note 



1 Mechanical and Picturesque Theatre. 

2 The good Marron. 

3 President of the Protestant clergy of Paris. (President.) 

4 So in the MS. 



458 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

from Vanderlyn, who had been waiting for me an hour 
and gone off. On Thursday, the 9th August, with 
M. Marron to the court. Heard two lawyers. Was 
well pleased, much gratified, but cannot detail. 
Breakfast this morning, 9th, at 7. To Vanderlyn's. 
Thence to Crede's ; thence to Marron's, a tour of 
about two leagues. At the court met General Walter- 
shoff. Note this day from Mrs. Robertson to dine, 
which declined. Another note in the evening to dine 
on Saturday or Monday. Engaged for Monday. 
Dined Thursday chez moi ; Friday with Vanderlyn ; 
Saturday 1 1, chez moi. But the most important event 
of this month is the Hegira 1 of Madame Paschaud, 
who has actually gone to join her husband at Geneva. 
We had been boudeing 1 , as you know, ever since my 
return from St. Germain. On Tuesday last, the 7th, 
received message to dine with her that day, as she 
should leave town next morning. Dined there, but 
was grave, silent, appetiteless, and without affectation. 
Some engagement, forget what, called me away early ; 
but at 10 returned. She was out. Went at 6 next 
morning. She had gone to the bath. Followed y 
and waited till she came out. Walked a few minutes 
in the garden, and had explanations, which were on 
both sides declared satisfactory, and we kissed and 
made friends ; but we are not such friends as we were 
two months ago. Went with her to the diligence 



1 This unusual English word may need an explanation. The Hegira, or Hejira, is the era 
which forms the starting point of the Mohammedan calendar, July i J, 622, commemorative of 
the flight of Mohammed from Mecca to Medina. Burr uses it as synonymous with flight. 

2 A hybrid present participle from the French verb bouder, to sulk. 



459 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

office and saw her off. Adieu, ma belle amie. Vraiment, 
son absence, m attriste\ 

Friday morning, ioth August, called on M. 
Marron to get the address of Valkenaer ; out. To 
Baron d'Alberg's ; not returned. It was yesterday, 
Friday, I dined with Vanderlyn. He came home with 
me and sat till 10. 

II. Rose 6. At 10 to Marron's to get the ad- 
dress of Valkenaer to whom had letter from Strick, 
but supposed him (V.) to be at Amsterdam. V. is a 
brave, franc, intelligent batave z . Sat an hour, and we 
were apparently equally amused. To Stone's manu- 
factory to get Humboldt's work, of which he promised 
me the loan ; out. Vanderlyn breakfasted with me 
this morning. (On Thursday Ternen came in and 
sat y 2 hour.) From Valkenaer's to Mons. Le Mon- 
tey's to see what been done about my note to the 
Duke, Minister of Police. It had been delivered, but 
no answer. Thence on my way to Madame Robert- 
son's a renc. 1 Went into a traiteurs 4 ; breakfast, 
though 2 P. M. Muse, &c; 10 francs ! ! (How 
many good resolutions have been made since 3 to-day.) 
To Madame Robertson's ; out. To Mr. Roux. He 
advises me to write to the Due de Cadore about the 
refusal of the passport, which I shall do. Home at 3. 
Having bought coffee by the way, took coffee for din. 
Find coffee good after muse. At 6 to Crede's ; out. 
Wrote him note on my return home. Home at 7. 



1 Good-by, my handsome friend. Truly, her absence makes me sad. 

2 A worthy, frank, intelligent Batavian, i. «., citizen of the Batavian Republic. See page 
462, note 3. 

3 For rencontre. 

4 Eating-house keeper's. 



46O 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Tea and bro., w'tt-soc & mjlk\ Letter from Swan 
enclosing his will for further amendments. Mem. of 
Notre Dame, Pantheon, the horse and gig in the 
China shop. Bon soir a minerve z . Dampier's " Voy- 
age " or " Travels " ; pray read it. I like much his 
manner. 

12. At 9 to Fonzi's where dined and staid till 8. 
Then away to Crede's ; no one at home, but met 
young Crede in the street coming home. At Fonzi's 
was a gar -con 1 who imitated dogs, cats, &c, and played 
very prettily on a little flute flageolet about six inches 
long. He says the beautiful women of France are on 
the Rhone from Lyons down, particularly at Avignon, 
Valence, and Vien, and the Cote Roti 4 , famous also 
for the wine bearing that name. Home at 9. Tro. 
man. Rhe. rad $ ; and coffee, w tt soc. 6 

13. Rose 7 in bad order. At 11 to Abel's ; 12 

to Fonzi's ; he not being ready, to , with whom 

left my mem. for perusal. Anecdotes of L. and N. 
To j pet. Aug. 1 to see Madame Pel. and to settle 
accounts ; could not settle, but paid 30 francs for one 
month's room rent. To Fonzi's again and there till 
4 ; not yet done. Thence home and dressed for din- 
ner. To Madame Robertson's. Y Sidney and 
Madame Menetza 8 . Md. Lewins est'd bon et d' esprit 9 . 



1 For brid, sockervatten, och mjolk. Bread, sugar-water, and milk. 

2 Good evening to Minerva. He means his daughter Theodosia. 
J For^ar^on. Boy. 

4 For C6te-R6tie, the name of a well-known vineyard on the banks of the Rhone, producing 
a wine of the same name. 

5 For Trap mange or J^avais trop mange. Radix Rhei. Had eaten too much. Took 
rhubarb. 

6 For sockervatten. Swedish for sugar-water. 

7 For l Rue Petit-Augustin. Number 3 Little Augustine street. 

8 For Menutzi. 

9 Probably for esteemed bon et d' esprit. Esteemed good and intelligent. 



461 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Home at 10. Note : It is an hour's walk from my 
quarters to Madame Robertson's, being about one 

league. 

15. To Valkenaer's to breakfast. T a very 
interesting Hollandois ' just arrived from Amsterdam. 
His name did not learn. Also a sensible brave bom. z , 
also Holland's 1 , formerly minister of the Bat'e rep. 3 to 

. The latter came to meet me and to talk, but 

was obliged to disappoint them, having made an 
engagement. The breakfast was Holland, that is, 
American, tea, bread, butter, slices of ham. Off at 11 
and to St. Pelasgie 4 . T an hour in correcting Swan's 

will. To Vanderlyn's ; out. To to meet Mr. 

Lane, who has got out of prison, and expressed a 
great desire to see me. He did not come. At 4 to 
Fonzi's. Took a stroll through the Thuleries 5 to see 
what was doing, this being the Emperor's^^r de fete 6 
or saint's day. The morning was ushered in by can- 
non. Many people in the gardens ; few fashionables. 
Home at 6. Two eggs and bro. for din. At 7 came 
in Vanderlyn, and we went again to the Thull's 5 to see 
the illuminations. Rather faint. The musicians 
in the orchestra played several pieces. The Emperor 
appeared, as was said, in the balcony, but that not 
being lighted, we could not distinguish him ; but there 
were vive V empereurs 1 . Home at 11. Called this 
morning on d'Alberg ; not yet returned. 

1 For Hollandais. Hollander. 

2 For brave homme. Worthy fellow. 

3 The Batavian Republic. This was the name which the Netherlands assumed when a 
republic from 1795 to 1806. 

4 The Sainte-Pelagie prison, heretofore mentioned. 

5 For Tuileries. 

6 Literally feast-day. 

7 Vive V Empereur means Long live the Emperor. 

462 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

1 6. At ii to the Louvre to meet Vanderlyn 
and to gaze. At y 2 p. 12 to le bureau du secretariat 
de la police general 1 to meet there Mons. Le Montey, 
who was to introduce me to Mr. Saugnier, le secretaire 1 . 
Met him, and was introduced, and urged my demand 
for passport to go to the United States. He advised 
me to write to the Minister, and offered to hand him 
the letter, which I will do, but have little hopes. This 
morning received a letter from Mr. GJ in reply to one 
I wrote about ten days ago about money, which I had 
good reason to believe he would lend me, and which 
I begin to want. He cannot ! This, Madame, is 
rather grave. Winter approaches, no prospect of 
leave to quit the empire, and still less of any means of 
living in it. So must economize most rigidly my few 
remaining louis. Met Mr. Lane at Paschaud's to-day. 
Thence to Fonzi's. Home at 3. Eggs and bro. At 
8 came in Vanderlyn and sat an hour. Am reading 
Robin's " Travels in Florida, Louisiana, and the 
Mississippi." We have had about a fortnight of raw, 
chilling, uncomfortable weather ; raining almost daily. 
I should be glad of a good fire, but see none. 

17. Called again at d'Alberg's ; not returned. 
To Fonzi's. To Terrien de Riviere ; out. To 
Crede's ; out. To Vanderlyn's to dine. T model, 
with whom x / 2 hour. After dinner, home. Finished 
reading Robin's " Travels," being three volumes 
octavo. 



1 The office of the secretaryship ( secretariat) of the general police. 

2 For le secretaire. The secretary. 

3 Mr. Edward Griswold. 



463 



Private journal of Aaron Burr . 

18. Dine at Fonzi's, being the fete de Mad'e 1 . 

T: Dr. Swediaur, Vanderlyn, Hernandez, Mr. , 

musicierf; Madame Montalambert, veuve du General*; 

Madame , souer de Madame Castro ; Madame 

and M'lle Fabre. Ayez un pen de menagement -pour les 
beautes passees. Ah, Madame D. encore enseingte ? Je 
vous croyois accouchie il y a longtems. Mais ecst bien sur 
que je ne puis pas enseingte plus que 9 mois*? Then a 
critical discussion on the possible time of gestation and 
how the date might be ascertained. Home at 10. 

19. To Fonzi's at 12 and till 2. Home till 4 
doing nothing. Then to Crede's ; out, but his son at 
home. To Vanderlyn's ; out. Home at Y / 2 p. 6, 
having walked about two and a half leagues. La S'te s 
brought me a bouillon 6 , before I went out ; very accept- 
able. On my return at 7 tea, bro., egg for dinner and 
supper. La J'te 7 sat an hour telling her misfortunes. 
La viell y de s prays for me, so that my soul is in a good 
way. She is devote 9 , goes daily to mass, and fills up 
the interval with cards. Vanderlyn had called twice 

1 Mad'e for Madame. Madame's birthday (literally, feast). 

2 Musician. 

3 Widow of the General (general). Marc Rene, Marquis de Montalembert (1714-1800), was 
a celebrated French general and engineer. He was an acknowledged authority on fortifications, 
being a voluminous writer along this line. His chief work was " Perpendicular Fortifications," 
in eleven volumes, published from 1776 on, and re-edited in 1793 under the title, " The Defen- 
sive Art Superior to the Offensive." The great Carnot thought so well of Montalembert that he 
called him into his council. In 1770 he married a talented, beautiful lady of the name of Jose- 
phine de Comarieu, whose drawing-room became one of the most popular of all Paris. In 1792 
he took her to London, where he left her and, returning to Paris, obtained a divorce and married 
the sister of Codet de Vaux, the celebrated chemist. After the death of Montalembert his for- 
mer wife returned to Paris, where she lived until 1832. She was a novelist of some repute. 

4 For " Ayex. un feu de menagement pour les beautes passees." "Ah, Madame D., vous etes 
encore enceinte? Je vous eroyais accouchie il y a longtemps." "Mais est-ce bien sur que je ne 
suis pas enceinte plus que neuf moisV " Have a little consideration for past beauties." "Ah, 
Madame D., you are still pregnant ? I thought you had been confined long ago." " But is it 
quite certain that I am not pregnant more than nine months f" 

5 For La Sainte. The Saint. The name given by Burr to the maid who was so pious. 

6 Broth. 

7 For La Jeannette. Jeannette. This was the name of the maid whom Burr called the 
saint. 

8 For La vieillarde. The old woman. (The feminine form of the noun vieillard is exceed- 
ingly rare.) 

9 For devote. Devout. 

464 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

during my absence to-day. Forgot to say that I had 
yesterday a letter from Liining pere\ very amiable, and 
to-day another from our cousin, John Gotleib Burr, 
giving the history of his family, which will give me 
some trouble to translate, and then to reply in German. 
You did not know before I told you, and I have not 
told you yet, huzzy, that you are a Dutchman ! But 
alas ! in my affairs no advance ; no passport ; no 
money. " Erotika Bib/ion " z par Mirabeau; duod., one 
volume, Paris : 1801. A very whimsical book, which 
I borrowed of Madame F., and read last week. Settle 
with Jeannet; 8 francs 10 sous. 

20. Called on Due d'Alberg ; he returned 
yesterday but had walked out. To Fonzi's, where from 
1 to 4. Home and thence to Vanderlyn's to dine. 
After dinner home at 8. Coffee, w t. socer mjlk 1 . 

21. At y 2 p. 9 to Due d'Alberg's, where % 
hour. Thence on to Roux's; out. To Madame 
Robertson's, where an hour ; fruit, wine, sug. water 4 . 
Engaged me to dine to-morrow. To Fonzi's at 1. 
Home to change and dress and thence to meet Van- 
derlyn and two M'lls. Viol, pas y an hour 5 . Cooked 
three eggs which with bro for din. On way from 
Madame R.'s called at the bureaux 6 , where found Roux. 
No answer from Minister about passport. Evening, a 
bottle beer, 7 sous. La Jeanette an heur 1 ; muse, &c, 

1 Father. 

2 A Greek title meaning " Erotic Book " or " Book of Sensual Passions." It was a collec- 
tion of examples of deviations from true love among different nations. Mirabeau wrote it when, 
as a young man, he was imprisoned in a dungeon of the Vincennes prison, about 17S0. 

3 For sockervatten och mj'oli. Sugar-water and milk. 

4 Sugar-water. 

5 Possibly for Violette pas y ; an hour. Violette not there ; staid an hour. But probably for 
Violette. J'y passai une hcure. Violette. Passed an hour there. 

6 Offices. 

7 For heure. Hour. 

465 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

'pour V amour de dieu\ But after dinner walked to 
Crede's, which is a league ; not come to town. So 
home. A very mild, serene, clear day, the only one 
this month. 

22. Got la Jeanette to buy my coal and milk ; 
got of both just double the quantity for the same price ; 
of coal, indeed, nearly three-fold. At 9 to Staley's to 
get newspapers ; got three of July, but nothing of 
interest. Thence to Vanderlyn's ; out. Met his 
bonne 2 ' in the street. Home. Letter of business for 
la Jeanette. At 3 to Fonzi's. At y 2 p. 5 to Madame 
Robertson's to dine. Y: Sidney, Madame Menutzi, 
Madame Lewins. Le soir*> as always, came in Adam- 
son. Staid till j4 p- 9 ; home at j4 p- 10. Rene. 4 
but got safe home ; only 7 sous pour bout, de bierrP. 
Read an hour in the " Journal del Adjutant-General 
Ramel Fun des Deport es a la Guina avec Pichegru et 14 
others." Un volume octavo, Londres 6 . 

23. To Fonzi's at 9, mais rien fait. 1 With 
Madame Pelough to Paschaud's to get letter. It is 
from Menard only to say that he had no letters for 
me. Changed 5 guineas at 26 francs 8 sous. To 



1 Muse, etc., for the love of God. 

2 Nursery-maid. 

3 In the evening. 

4 For rencontre. Rencounter. 

5 For sept sous four une bouteille de biere. Seven sous for a bottle of beer. 

6 For" Journal de V Adjutant-General Ramel, Vun des Deport is a la Guiane avee Pichegru et 
14 autres" etc. "Journal of Adjutant-General Ramel, one of those Deported to Guiana with 
Pichegru and Fourteen Others." One volume octavo, London. Charles Pichegru (1761-1804) 
was a distinguished French general. In 1795 he conquered Holland and organized the Bata- 
vian Republic. Then he resumed command of the Army of the Rhine, of which he had been 
made chief in 1793, but entering into negotiations with the Bourbons and falling under suspicion 
on account of his activity and the reverses sustained by his army, he was deprived of his com- 
mand in 1796. During the following year he was a member of the Council of Five Hundred, 
and was chosen its president; but his plottings with the Royalist party and the emigres were 
discovered. He was therefore arrested, September 4, 1797, and transported to Cayenne, from 
which he escaped the following year to England. Later he was found in Paris, arrested, im- 
prisoned, and in 1804 he was found strangled in his cell. 

7 But nothing done. 



466 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Viol.'s 1 , where an hour ; gr., bio., roug. cbev. 1 To 
Fonzi's ; one piece is now, I think, complete 3 . Dined 
by invitation with Madame Pelough. After dinner 
came in Vanderlyn. After smoking segar, walked 
with him to Crede's to make money. Merited. 

24. Wrote this morning to Duke Bassano, again 
demanding passport. Sor. at 2. To Roux to press 
the same demand on Duke de Cadore. R. is always 
civil. He had "received no answer" from the Duke 
(this is the diplomatic style of negation); but promised 
to state my further reasons and demand. Thence to 
Saugnier's, le sec. de la police genie''; out ; left, enclosed 
to him, my letter, which is in English, to Bassano. 
To Vanderlyn's to dine ; leaving an hour and x / z before 
dinner. Read out the first part of Burke's " Sublime 
and Beautiful." After dinner called on Crede ; not 
in town. To the Luxembourg garden where I had 
rendezvous with Vanderlyn, but he came not ; so 
home. At Vanderlyn's had the misfortune to break a 
spring of my rat. 6 

25. Rose this morning at 6 and with very pious 
resolutions to write a number of letters, &c. You 
shall see how faithfully executed. At 7 to Fonzi's 
about that spring. Home to breakfast. At 1 1 recol- 
lected a rendezvous foolishly made to Viol. You 
know how religious I am in the performance of all 
sorts of engagements, so went. Found M'lle in a 

1 Probably for Violette. 

2 For grande, blonde, les cheveux rouges. Tall, blonde, red hair. 

3 Probably a reference to false-teeth. 

4 For II a du m'erite. It («'. e., the scheme) has merit. 

5 For le Secretaire de la Police Generate. Secretary of the General Police. 

6 For ratelier. Set of false teeth. They were made with springs in olden times. 

467 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

state of expectation and disposed to be amiable. T 
an hour ; 6 francs ; never better pleased with red, 
which is my abhorrence in theory. Thence home. 
Changed 6 guineas at 16 franc 10 sous. To make a 
cud. 1 to Fonzi. Gave him 6 napoleons. Took a 
breakfast there of meat, bread, wine at 1 o'clock. On 
my way home the devil put in my way Flora, whom I 
had often before met and promised to call on ; went 
to sa cham. Jol. bon. vol.; y 2 h. z ; 7 francs. Home 
at 3 and at 4 made myself coffee. At 6 came in Van- 
derlyn. Walked with him to show him Flora as he 
was in want of muse ; 3 francs ; y 2 h? Home at 9 
and rather disposed to go early to bed, having been 
kept awake till 1 this morning by the songs, &c. 
(a party below) and being obliged to be up at 6 to- 
morrow, and the labor of the day requires repose. 
So God bless and reform thee ! 

16. Went to bed last night full of penitence and 
contrition and promising you any number of times 
that I would never do so again. Full of apprehen- 
sion, too, of some physical consequences. Rose at 6 
and to my great surprise in perfectly good order. It 
manifests, at least, the good state of my health. Got 
breakfast at 7, and went at 8 to the rendezvous agreed 
on with Hernandez and Vanderlyn, about yi league. 
They had just gone off to St. Germain 4 , whither I was 
to have gone with them if they would have staid till 



1 Possibly for cadeau. Present. 

2 For went to sa cbambrt. Elle est jolie, bonne, voluptueuse ; y deux heures. She is pretty 
good, voluptuous; staid there two hours. 

3 There two hours. 

4 Meaning St. Germain-en-Laye, a tranquil town outside of Paris. See page 455, note 3. 



468 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

11. Nevertheless, was glad they were gone, for the 
jaunt would have cost me 8 livres. Home, and after 
changing and refreshing for an hour, for it is very- 
warm, to Due d'Alberg's. Very lucky I went, for he 
had been seeking me, and had lost my address. 
Offered to take me to the Due Rovigo 1 , to whom I 
have been trying these eight weeks to get access. The 
Due wrote a letter demanding audience for us, which 
letter I took and left at Rovigo's. I suspect that His 
Majesty begins to think of me and my projects. 
From d'Alberg's to Madame Robertson's, where an 
hour. Took a second breakfast of ham, fruit, wine. 
Thence to Saugnier's. He refused to see me, but sent 
word by the servant that he had no answer to my 
letter. Home at i. The Due d'Alberg having 
requested another copy of my memoir, went out at 5 
to get Argaud to make me another copy. He had 
moved to Rue Fer de Moulin, Faubourg Mareil 2 , 
about four or five miles off. So came home, but after 
taking my bro. and mjlk\ to Argaud's ; gave him my 
brouillard* with some additional notes, which I have 



1 Anne Jean Marie Rene Savary, Due de Rovigo (1774-183}), was a French general and 
politician who attached himself unreservedly to the fortunes of Napoleon. He fought in many 
battles. From the battle of Marengo on, he was Napoleon's aide-de-camp and confidential man. 
In 1800 he was named Colonel and Commandant of the Select Gendarmerie, which was com- 
missioned to watch over the safety of the First Consul. In 1803 he became Brigadier-General 
and two years later rose to be Grand Officer of the Legion of Honour. In 1S08, after serving as 
ambassador at St. Petersburg, the title of Duke of Rovigo was given to him by the Emperor. In 
1810 he was called to succeed Fouche as Minister of Police. Of his nomination to that office he 
himself wrote : " I inspired fear in everybody. From the moment of my nomination people 
packed up. There was talk of nothing but exiles and imprisonments and things still worse. In 
fine, I believe that news of the plague having arrived on some point of the coast could not have 
occasioned greater fright than did that of my nomination to the Ministry of Police." On Napo- 
leon's return from Elba, the Duke was made a peer and put at the head of all the gendarmerie 
of the Empire. He wanted to accompany Napoleon to St. Helena, but was not allowed to go. 
Seldom has a crowned head had a slave more willing than de Rovigo. 

2 Iron-mill street. (Rue Moulin-a-fer) in the Marais suburb. How the name Marais came 
to be given has already been explained. See page 457, note 6. 

3 For brid and mjilk. It is remarkable how Burr sticks to these Swedish words. 

4 Rough draft. 



469 



Private journal of Aaron Burr. 

made to-day, and he promised to bring me a copy on 
Tuesday morning. Came home through the Jardin 
des Plantes 1 and the Boulevard, so that I have walked 
nearly twenty miles to-day, and am not the least 
fatigued. I grudged Gamp a coach on account of 
yesterday's extravagance. Jeanette brought me wine, 
bread, and melon to refresh and heated water for 
drink. Now I have to write a long letter of business 
for Jeanette. 

30. Rose at 6 and at 7 to Fonzi's, where an 
hour. Home. Breakfast. Had lent my memorial 
to M. Pelough, and he had gone out. Dressed for 
the intended visit to Rovigo. There being a defect in 
the work of Fonzi 1 , and being without my memorial, 
resolved to postpone the visit till to-morrow. Din. 
bro. mjolk. On my way home called at the Lyon and 
then on Scherer, who had a letter for me. It is from 
Bollman. The only one from America since October 
last. 

31. Rose at 6. To Fonzi's at 10 and till 12. 
Then dressed, and to the Due Rovigo's, armed with 
his note to d'Alberg. The huissier 1 told me that there 
were a great number of persons waiting audience ; that 
it would be very late before I could be received, and 
recommended me to come to-morrow at 1. Din. bro. 
mik. 



1 Le Jardin des Plantes or Museum d'Histoire Naturelle was founded in l6}5 by Guy de 
Labrosse, a celebrated botanist, and was, as its name implies, intended for plants. It was 
entrusted to Buffon about a century later, who completely transformed it and organized natural 
history collections. Bernardin de St. Pierre transferred to it in 1793 the animals of the royal 
menageries of Versailles and other animals. In modern times it has become a very celebrated 
museum of natural history. 

2 Konzi was Burr's dentist. 
} Usher. 

470 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Paris, Sept. i, 1810. Rose at 5, having slept 
enough, though it was 12 when I couched 1 . At 1 to 
Duke Rovigo's. I was the first, and placed in the 
antechamber. The buissier told me that the audience 
would not begin till 2. " Why, then, sir, did you bid 
me come at 1 ?" " That you might be ready at 2." 
There came in to the number of forty-seven ; a major- 
ity women. Two English women sat next to me. At 
y 2 p. 2 the doors were thrown open, and a buissier 
cried out, "Mesdames et messieurs, entrez" z . I was quite 
surprised, expecting we were to be called in one by one, 
as I had seen practiced by Fauchet 3 and Champigny. 
We all went in. The Due, in full dress, was at the 
farther end of the room, and we stood, forming a sort 
of horseshoe, of which the two ends approached him. 
He began on his right, and so on, hearing and answer- 
ing, generally, in about one minute. Some of the 
women kept him three or four minutes, and some talk- 
ing on after he had given his answer, till he turned his 
back and addressed the next. His first question was, 
" £hii etes vous?" 4 One very ill-looking fellow he 
asked, " Etes vous le Colonel Burr?" 5 By which I 
learned that he had that person in his mind. I shifted 
my place so as to be last ; but some three or four 
others, with the like design, got after me. At length 
my turn came. I announced myself, and told him I 
had been refused a passport, at which I was the more 



1 A hybrid verb from the French verb coucher, to go to bed or put to bed. 

2 " Ladies and gentlemen, enter." 

3 For Fouche. 

4 For "Qui etes-vous ? " " Who are you > " 

5 " Are you Colonel Burr .' " 



471 



Private journal of Aaron Burr. 

surprised, as he probably knew the nature of the busi- 
ness which had brought me to France. " J' en ai 
entendu paler mais je ne connois pas les detailes." " Je 
serais charme. Monsieur, d'un occasion de vous les fair e 
connoitre. J 'ai nai pas eu le bonheur a" avoir ete ecoute 
par un soldat et un autre nest pas capable de juger de mon 
affaire. Le genie militaire de votre Excellence scaur ait 
apprecier mes veus et je serais desole de quitte la france 
sans avoir ete entendu et compris." 1 Then he asked me 
to walk aside that he might hear it. I told him I had 
it in writing. " A b, donnez le moi. Je le lirai avec 
empressement." z So I drew it from my side pocket and 
gave it to him, and was going to renew the question of 
passport. " Ah, nous conferons de ca aprez j ' ' aurai lu 
votre memoir e. Je vous ecrirai pour vous donner rendez- 
vous par ticulier en peu de jours ;" 3 and turned off to 
another. So that after all my pains to get an audience, 
it has amounted to just nothing. It was unlucky } 
however, that, through ignorance, I should have 
stumbled on his public day. On any other he gives 
private audiences to all who are permitted to come in. 
I like much his appearance and manner. A handsome 
man, about 42, very prompt and decided, but suffi- 
ciently courteous ; the appearance of intelligence and 
good breeding; all which is better than I had been 
taught to expect. Got off at 4. To Paschaud's, 

1 "I have heard it mentioned (purler), but I do not know (connais) the details." "I 
should be charmed, sir, to have an opportunity to make you acquainted with them. I have not 
had the good fortune to have been heard by a soldier and no other is capable of judging of my 
affair. The military genius of your Excellency can (saurait) appreciate my desires (voeus) 
and I should be very sorry (dhole) to leave (quitter) France without having been heard and 
understood." 

2 " Ah, give it to me. (Donnex-le-moi.) I shall read it with eagerness." 

3 " Ah, we shall consult together about that after (cenf'ererons de cela apris) I shall have read 
your memorial (memoire) I shall write (ecrirai) you in order to give you a private interview in a 
few days." 

472 



Private J o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

where had agreed to meet Vanderlyn at 3. He had 
been and gone, leaving a note for me to dine with him. 
Home ; changed my dress, and to Fonzi's ; thence to 
Vanderlyn's, distant one league, where had a model, 
not exquisite. After dinner we walked by pon nuf to 
Pal. Roy.' ; parted and I came home, having agreed 
that he should call on me at 1 1 to-morrow, to arrange 
about going together to St. Germain's, where is a. fete 
and foire 1 . Crede came to town Thursday ; called on 
me twice, but missing me, left a note saying that he 
would be at home all the evening. Called and saw 
him in the evening. Walked together to the Luxem- 
bourg gardens, where I staid till he went to make a 
neg'n 3 for me. He was successful, and returned. 
After walking an hour, home at 10. His zeal is great 
and unabated. 

2. Rose at 6. At 9 to d'Alberg's ; gone to the 
bath. To Valkenaer's, where took a second breakfast 
and staid an hour. Home at n. Came in Vander- 
lyn. Walked together by the Thulleries 4 to Port 
Royal 5 to get a passage for me to St. Germain, Vander- 
lyn having resolved not to go. Found a carriage with 
four ; I made the fifth. He wanted but one of his 
complement. After sitting in the carriage thirty-five 
minutes, two of the passengers got out of patience, 
sacre'd and dlable V 6 , and went to seek some other pas- 



1 For Pont Neuf to Palais Royal. 

2 Festival and fair. 

1 Possibly for negotiation ; but financial or amorous.' 

4 For Tuileries. 

5 The Boulevard de Port Royal. 

6 These two hybrid verbs are made by Burr, the one from the French verb sacrcr, to curse, 
and the other from the French noun dialile, devil. Hence, they cursed and swore. 



473 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

sage. Then came up three who wished to go to 
Versailles. The coachman asked if any of us within 
would go to Versailles ; two said no, the third yes. So 
we two Noes were turned out, and he changed his des- 
tination to Versailles. After waiting y 2 hour longer, 
without being able to get a passage, gave up the jaunt 
and came home. Just now, 3 P. M., la Jeanette 
brought me a bowl of soup. Every day some such 
attention and good office ; and now, at 5, I am going 
to stroll an hour and fear greatly some accident. I ask 
your prayers for my safety. Evening. Felicitate me 
on my safe return. I did, indeed, spend 6 livres, viz., 
5 livres 10 sous for a pound of sugar, and 10 sous for 
fruit. Note: This is the only sugar bought in a 
month, and it will last me a month, for I use none at 
breakfast. Have been reading " Tableau de F Amour 
Conjugal 1 ," par Vernette, two volumes, Paris: 18 10. 
Seeing it announced in several ajfiches z , I wondered 
what could be said on such a subject to fill two vol- 
umes. Looking at the table of contents, found the 
heads of chapters inviting, and bought it. A most 
stupid book. I met in every chapter disappointment 
and nothing else. 

3. Rose at 6. At 9 to Fonzi's, who was abed. 
To d'Alberg's, who had walked out. On my return 
bought Boccace nouvelles librement traduits par 1 Mira- 
beau (who makes everything amusing), eight volumes 

1 " Picture of Conjugal Love." 

2 Placards. 

3 Boccacio's novels freely translated (traduites) by Mirabeau. This was the famous " Deca- 
merone." Mirabeau's translation was made during the time of his imprisonment and was pub- 
lished in 1802. The " Decamerone " consisted of one hundred stories published by Boccacio in 
1353, ranging from the pathetic to the licentious. 

474 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr. 

duod. Also, Boccace's something, French and 
Italian 1 , one volume; Rochefoucauld's "Maxims" 2 , 
one volume ; for the whole paid 12 livres. Then to 
Fonzi's again. To d'Alberg's ; always frank and kind. 
He engaged me to meet him to-night at y 2 p- 8 at 
Due Rovigo's, than which, you know, nothing could 
be more agreeable to me. Thence to Madame 
Robertson's, where an hour, and took soup. She 
urged me to dine, which I declined on account of my 
evening engagement. Went with her in her carriage 
to see the M'lles Evans ; and thence I called on Swe- 
diaur, where x / 2 hour, and then home. Took two 
eggs for din. To Beret's, coiffeur* y to engage him to 
call this evening ; but saw only his wife, qui est fort 
gentill* Home. Made my toilette without Beret. 
Vanderlyn came in and we walked by way of Pal. Roy. 5 
(a route he always prefers a cause des files 6 ). A thunder- 
shower, that is, much lightning, a little thunder, and 
about ten drops of rain. At the Due's was a great 
assemblage ; perhaps one hundred gentlemen, and 
twenty or thirty ladies. Met there the Due d'Alberg, 
who presented me in form to Due Rovigo. Staid an 
hour to see the show, with which I was amused, 
because it furnished something to amuse you. The 
Due told me he had read my memo. 7 , and said some 



1 Boccacio wrote many works and it is impossible to conjecture to which reference is here 
made. 

2 The French title of this work is " Reflexions oh Sentences et Maximes Morales du Due de la 
Rochefoucauld.^^ It was written during the age of Richelieu and had a wide and salutary 
influence. 

3 Hair-dresser. 

4 Who is very pretty. (Gentille.) 

5 For Palais Royal. 

6 Because of the girls. 

7 For memoir e. Memorial. 



475 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

civil things. Off at x / 2 p. 9 and home. Bon soir, 
chere T. 1 Mem : Took coffee before going out this 
evening, contrary to all habit, and much afraid of 
insom., to guard against which have drank a ]/ 2 bottle 
of wine. 

4. The coffee did keep me awake till about 3 ; 
nevertheless rose at 6. Sor. 9 to Terrien de Riviere's 
villa, Rue du Temple, about 1 x / 2 miles ; out. Then 
by the quais 1 to Baron d'Alberg's, Rue Concorde, 
about two miles. Tan hour. Then to Fonzi's where 
engaged myself to dine. Home at 2. Read about 
sixty pages in the " Fiametta " de Boccace*, which found 
dull, the French being antique and difficult to under- 
stand. Finding myself drowsy, took a nap in my chair 
of an hour. To Fonzi's at j4 p- 5 to dine. T the 

famous young , whose father I met there some 

time ago. Came in after dinner Mons. Isidore and 
wife and three enf. 4 He had been a year in England 
as emigre 5 . A very pleasant, well-informed man. 
Urged me much to come and pass a day with him at 
Passy, where he resides. This is the first Frenchman 
who has offered me the slightest hospitality since the 
7 mo. I have been in France. Home at 9. Seul y 2 
hour with Mr. and Madame Pelough. Couche at 12. 

5. Lay till 9 to sleep off a headache. In bad 
order. Took a bowl of tea, but ate not. At 1 to 



1 For Bon joir, chere Theodosia. Good evening, dear Theodosia. 

2 Quays, wharfs. 

3 Boccacio's " V Amorosa Fiammetta" an allegory as tedious as it is long, of the amours of 
Boccacio and Princess Marie. 

4 For enfants. Children. 

5 Emigrant. 



476 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Rovigo's ; gone to St. Cloud's 1 . To Dr. Swediaur's 
y 2 hour ; then walked along the quais an hour, look- 
ing at the books which are there exposed 2 . They are 
second-hand books and odd volumes, but so amaz- 
ingly cheap that it is tempting to buy, but bought 
none. Saw an edition of Boccace for 6, io 3 , which is 1 
livres less than I paid for mine, and which I thought 
so very cheap ; i livre a volume, there being eight 
volumes, what cheaper could be desired ? To Fonzi's; 
engaged. Home and at 4 made breakfast, the head- 
ache having passed off. Did not go out again. At 8 
came in Vanderlyn and sat two hours. To-morrow 
shall go again to Rovigo's, when it is hoped I may 
have something to tell you. 

6. Coucbe 12. Rose 6. One sound nap. Sor. 
at 9 to a bookstore in St. Honore 4 , where bought for 
you and Gamp to the amount of 1 6, 1 o s — just 3 dollars. 
I mean to buy you about fifty plays of those written 
since '88. You will see from them much of the change 
of manners. On my way home changed three guineas. 
Then to Fonzi's ; engaged. Home and dressed for 
the Due Rovigo's ; went there at 1. Was told by the 
huissier that he was in council of state, which might 
last till 4, but advised me to come at 3. Paschaud's 
bookstore being just by, went there to pass the two 
hours. At 3 returned to the Due's and, after staying 



1 St. Cloud is a small town on the Seine about six miles southwest of Paris. Napoleon was 
very fond of this retreat, probably because there was effected the coup d'etat of November 10, 
1799, which placed him at the head of the government. 

2 Many travelers in Paris are greatly tempted as Burr was by the remarkable bargains in old 
books which are to be had at numerous book-stalls along the Seine. 

3 Meaning 6 livres or francs and 10 sous. 

4 Meaning Rue St. Honore. 

5 Meaning 16 livres io sous. 

477 



Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

an hour in the antechamber, was told that the council 
might still sit a great while, and that I had better 
come to-morrow at i. So off to Fonzi's; still engaged. 
Home. Coffe. 1 and bro. for din. At 7 to Fonzi's, a 
visit. He is not only a dentiste, but a man of educa- 
tion, of talents, and considerable acquirements ; franc 
et enjou'e 1 . I met there, also, a very amiable Spaniard, 
c. d. prete 1 ; has passed many years at Constantinople, 
attached, I believe, to the Spanish embassy. He has 
great love for personal independence and ease, that he 
has refused a brilliant place at court, and prefers to 
learn Fonzi's art. Vanderlyn was there also. Staid 
till 9, then home, and have read an essay on lotteries, 
par Bardini. A title full of pretension, but the pam- 
phlet has very little either of fact or reasoning. Read 
also one of your plays, " La Famille Americaine"* par 
le Citoyen Bouilly 5 . Very pretty. Yesterday, no, it 
was Tuesday, the weather changed, and it is now so 
cold that I should be glad of a fire ; but to that there 
are great objections ; for what would become of the 
fifty plays, and of something, I won't tell what, which 
I meditate to buy for Gampillo 6 , that will make his 
little heart kick ? 

7. Couche Yz p. 12. Rose y 2 p. 6. How 
divinely I sleep. "Divinely?" Do the gods sleep? 7 



1 Probably meant for cafe. Coffee. 

2 Candid and merry. 

3 For ci-devant fr'etre. Formerly priest. 

4 " The American Family." 

5 By Citizen Bouilly. The appellations citizen (citoyen) for men and citizeness (citayenne) 
for women were universally employed under the Republic for Monsieur and Madame. Under 
the Consulate these titles disappeared from public acts and official language. 

6 Little Gamp or Gampy, Burr's favorite nickname for his grandson. 

7 The reader will note Burr's play on the word " divinely," which is derived from the Latin 
divinus, belonging to a god. 



478 



Private journal of Aaron Burr. 

At 9 to Valkenaer's, where an hour, and took a second 
breakfast, tea, bro., but., and smo. beef shard 1 . To 
d'Alberg's an hour. Home and dressed for Due de 
Rovigo's, where at y 2 p. 12. The huissier told me 
that S. E. z did not receive to-day. " Neanmoins faites 
passer mon nom." 1 Several others also came in. Was 
seated with my back to the door of entrance. But 
the story is too long to write. I will tell it you. The 
conclusion is, that after waiting three hours, I got sight 
of his Excellency by force, and demanded my pass- 
port. " J' en ai parlai a S. M. avant hier et il a con- 
senti, mais il faut que j en parle au Min. de Rel. Ext'r 
et je vous enformerai"* and turned his back and made 
his escape. The assurance that H. M. has consented 
is something, though I am very sorry to say, not 
much. Words cost nothing here, and there is often 
an immensity of time and space between the promise 
of a courtier and the performance. At 4 to Fonzi's 
and thence to Vanderlyn's, where dined at y p. 6. 
We walked together as far as le passage faydeau s and 
thence I came home. Found a note from Madame 
R'n, requesting me to dine to-morrow, as being "prob- 
ably the last time.''' Replied yes. On my way from 
the Minister's, went round by Rue Cadran to Stone's 
manufactory, and he not being there, to Rue Bondi ; 



1 For tea, brod, butter, and smoked beef cut in thin slices. (Shard for shared.) 

2 For Son Excellence. His Excellency. 
j " Nevertheless, take in my name." 

4 For " J'en ai parle a Sa Majeste avant-hier et il a consenii, mais il faut que j'en parle 
au Ministre des Relations Extirieures et je vous en informcrai." " I spoke to His Majesty 
about it day before yesterday and he consented, but I must speak about it to the Minister of For- 
eign Affairs and shall let you know." 

5 There is in Paris a short street named Rue Feydeau leading from Rue Richelieu to Rue 
Montmartre. Burr may mean this; or there may have been an arcade (passage) of the same 
name. 

479 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

out. Left a note which I had written in case of not 
finding him. The note was rather dry, and may prob- 
ably terminate our acquaintance. 

8. Couche 11. Rose 6. At 9 to Fonzi's. At 
10 to Due d'Alberg's, to whom related my interview 
of yesterday. He advises me to go to his evening 
party on Monday, and there again press the subject, 
and he will meet me there. Back to Fonzi's and there 
till 2. Then at 4 to Fonzi's again and at x / 2 p. 4 
walked ofF to Madame Robertson's to dine. T: Evans 
V ainee 1 and Madame Menutzi. Staid till 9 and then 
home. Wrote a note to Crede, who, I fear, is not 
pleased that I did not pass Sunday last with him as 1 
had engaged. See the " Journal de /'Empire" 1 of this 
day. The contrast between France and England. 
Wrote note to Crede which sent by the messagerie 1 to 
beg him to advise me of his advent. 

9. At 8 came in Mr. Howseal, whom I detained 
at breakfast, and had a great breakfast below ; coffee, 
sugar, bro., butter, eggs, fruit. He staid nearly two 
hours, and amused me with his adventures. He has 
only thirteen children, but expects five or six more. 
At 10 to Fonzi's, where found Vanderlyn, but F. was 
engaged. Home and read in " Les abus Dans les Cere- 
monies et Dans les Moeurs" deve Hopes par Mr. L., 
auteur du " Compere Mattbieu." 4 Octavo ; 175 pages. 



1 For Vainee. The elder Miss Evans. 

2 The " Journal of the Empire." 

3 Coach or coach-office. 

4 " Abuses in Ceremonies {Ceremonies) and Customs," Developed or Expanded (devehpp'es) 
by Mr. L., author of "£e Compere Matthieu " (Godfather Matthew). This was a satirical 
romance published in 1765 by Abbe Henri Joseph Dulaurens. At its appearance it enjoyed such 
success that it was attributed to Voltaire. 

48O 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

Imp. a Blois. 2 me an. de la Rep. fr. 1 There is wit in 
the preface and dedication and some learning in the 
body of the work, but the subject has lost its interest 
except as mere matter of curiosity. At i to Fonzi's 
again and there two hours, and got fitted so as to be 
at ease. For two days past have had much plague 
and pain with my jaws. Dined with the family to-day, 
and have not stirred out. Vanderlyn came in at 8 and 
sat an hour. Had a note from Mrs. Robertson this 
evening, asking me to draw a power atty. and to dine 
with her to-morrow ; replied, assenting to both. No 
reply from Stone. What the devil did he mean by 
offering me, near six weeks ago, the loan of Hum- 
boldt's works, and neither to send it nor answer my 
notes ? This is English. 

10. At i o to d'Alberg's. He had heard noth- 
ing concerning me, but persisted that I should go this 
evening to Due Rovigo's. Home, and drew and 
copied a power atty. for Mrs. Robertson. Then at i 
to Fonzi's. Then au Musee x to meet Vanderlyn and 
to examine the pictures exposed for public inspection. 
Every two years there is an exhibition and competition 
for prizes. Every ten years a great exhibition and 
great prizes. This is both the biennial and decennial 
exhibition. As I buy the list and explanation of all 
such things, will give you my remarks when we shall 
read that over together. At 4, home to dress for 
dinner and for the evening. As I was obliged to wear 

1 For Imprime a Blois dans la deuxiime ann'ee de la Republique Fran^aise. Printed at Blois 
in the second year of the French Republic. (The French Republic was founded Sept. 22, 1792. 
Then began the year I., called by the French Van I. Hence the year II. was at some time in 
the years 1793-1794.) 

2 To the Museum. 

48I 



Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr . 

chapeau bras 1 for the evening, and could not come 
home from Mrs. Robertson's, was necessitated to take 
a hack, 32 sous. At dinner, Nancy Evans, Madame, 
and myself. Mrs. Robertson will certainly marry that 
young Adamson very soon. Neither she nor Mr. 
Evans can get passport. You see I am not the single 
victim. Left Madame Robertson's at J / 2 p. 7, and 
to Due Rovigo. There was an immense crowd ; 
perhaps one hundred carriages at the door. Was 
presented to la Duchesse Rovigo, who is a belle Creole 1 . 
Met there Due d'Alberg et ux. and was again much 
amused with the spectacle. The gentlemen all stand. 
Now and then one advances and says some common- 
place to one of the ladies. Then retires to the male 
side. They seem to ennui 1 themselves quite as much 
as in England or America on like occasions. I was 
almost the only person who was laced and galloried*. 
Home at ^ p. 9. Observe how very reasonable and 
sage I have been for ten days. I never spend a livre 
that I do not calculate what pretty thing it might have 
bought for you and Gampillo ; hence my economy. 

11. Rose at 5. Scarcely light enough to see. 
There must be something in the air or stars, for the 
family, who are never stirring till 9, were up at 7. 
Took my breakfast at 7. At x / % p. 9 to Valkenaer, 
where took a second breakfast. Last evening I had a 
note from him, saying that he had something to tell 



1 See Glossary. 

2 A beautiful Creole. (Creole.) 
] See Glossary. 

4 A hybrid perfect participle from the French verb galonner, to adorn with gold or silver 
lace. 



482 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

me. It was about the Spanish Cap. 1 , but how to get 
at him I have not yet discovered. To Fonzi's an 
hour. To Abel's, where paid my account, 59 livres, 
and exchanged three pr. de has de cot. for tant de filoxel 
and ordered a pattern for culottes en soye noir tricote en 
maille Jixe z — a piece of extravagance which you will find 
venial. Din. with Swan at the Pelasgie', where met 
my friend McRae, whom I did not recollect, he is so 
pale and thin. (He married two years ago a young 
wife.) Not a cent for muse since last Saturday week 4 . 
Staid but a few minutes. He had heard nothing from 

V . Engaged to call on him again this week to 

hear something " important " he had to communicate. 
12. Rose 6. At 8 a special messenger from 
Crede, begging me to call immediately, that he had 
something very important to communicate. What 
the devil can it be ? Good or bad ? Or, perhaps, 
something which I shall consider of no importance at 
all ? Posted off about a league, and found him wait- 
ing. The arrival of GJ is what he had to tell me, and 
perhaps it may be important. We shall know to- 
morrow. Thence about a league more to d'Alberg's ; 
out. To Fonzi's an hour, and did nothing. Then 
home to receive Howseal, who was to call with some 
of his children. He came at 4, and brought M'lle, 
who is very pretty and genti/ 6 , and three boys, Edward, 



1 Is this for Captain i 

2 For three paires de has de coton for tant de filoselle, etc. Three pairs of cotton stockings 
for as many of floss silk, and ordered a pattern for breeches of black silk (soie noire) knit (tricotee) 
in fixed stitch. 

3 The Sainte-Pelagie prison. 

4 This sentence is crossed out by Burr in the MS. 

5 For Mr. Griswold. 

6 For gentille. Pretty, genteel. 



483 



Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr , 
, and . We had a little repast of 



peaches, grapes, bread, butter, cheese, and wine, which 
cost about 3 livres, and nosegay for M'lle. Staid till 5. 
Before their arrival, I being hungry, took my fillibonka 1 
and ate again with them. Madame P. asked me to 
dine, as she does almost every day, but I had dined. 

13. Rose 6. At 9 to Mr. G.'s ; not up. To 
Baron d'Alberg's ; not up. Now it seems the air and 
stars have taken a drowsy turn. Waited at d'Alberg's 
till he got up, and passed y 2 hour. He says that the 
Due Rovigo told him that Mons. le C. B. z might have 
his passport whenever he would call for it. This was 
great news ; very great, if true in the event. To Mr. 
G.'s, who received me very courteously. Began with 
my business — the most awkward of all sorts of busi- 
ness, ['argent! 1 Spoke of his losses, &c, which I 
knew to be very true. He has been infamously swin- 
dled by men who hold unmerited estimation in the 
world. Agreed to take breakfast with him to-morrow 
at 10, which I shall not forget. To Fonzi's, who was 
very much occupied. To Saugnier's, sec. de la police 
generate'', to demand my passeport. He would not see 
me. These fellows are often more difficult than their 
masters. Sent in a note to him, and received verbally 
in reply that he had no instructions from the Duke 
about my pasport 5 , but would see him on the subject 
to-day. Thence to the prefecture**, where the passe- 

1 Davis substitutes the word share. 

2 Colonel Burr. 

3 Money. 

4 For Secretaire de la Police Generate. Secretary of the General Police. 

5 So in the MS. Burr may mean it for the French form, passeport, which he sometimes uses. 

6 For prefecture. The office of the pr'efet or prefect. 

484 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

ports are finally had and paid for. The chef du bureau 1 
made me the same reply as Saugnier. Thence on to 
Pelasgie z , where dined with Swan. The important con- 
cern is about merino sheep. No doubt there is a great 
deal of money to be made by it, but it it out of my 
line. Home at 7. To Pelasgie* from my quarters is 
more than three miles. Vanderlyn came in and sat 
two hours. Had coffee blanc 1 . I am making an 
experiment of coffee not burnt, having somewhere read 
that the burning made the oil acid, which was the cause 
of the nervous effect. I have drank two large cups. 
You will know to-morrow how I sleep. Vanderlyn 
found it detestable, and I confess it was somewhat 
mawkish. 

14. Couche 12. Rose 6, having slept perfectly 
well, the white coffee notwithstanding. Have taken a 
large dose this evening, and something stronger than 
that of yesterday. Found it more intolerable to the 
taste. Wrote a letter to Duke Rovigo, q. v., to 
remind him that he had assured me of his Majesty's 
assent to my passport ; that I had applied, and the 
answers I had received. Sent it by a commissionaire ; 
15 sous. To Mr. G.'s 4 , where took a second break- 
fast. He let me have 2,000 francs, about 1,33 dollars, 
for which I gave a receipt, containing a request for you 
to pay it, in case I should not pay it within a year. 
This will enable me to get to America if I should ever 
get passeport. Passed two hours with G. You know 

1 The Chief of the Bureau or Department Chief. 

2 For Sainte-Pelagie. 

} For cafe blanc. Literally, white coffee. 
4 Griswold. 

485 



Private journal of Aaron Burr . 

that I have always thought he had one of the most 
acute, logical heads of our country. To Fonzi's where 
till 4, doing very little, for we were constantly inter- 
rupted. Home for an hour and then to Vanderlyn's, 
where dined. Walked with him to Fonzi's where Y / 2 
hour. On coming home, met on the Boulevard what 
he thought a model. He went to take information, 
and I sagely home, where, having taken my coffee 
blanc^ I have now at x / 2 p. 1 1 the honor to bid you 
good-night. 

15. Couche 12. Rose 6. The white coffee 
maintains its reputation, and I became more reconciled 
to its flavor. In a little while I shall like it. The dis- 
advantage is, that it takes double the quantity. Don't 
imagine that I use it perfectly raw. Not so, Madame. 
The roasting took me two hours, so afraid was I that 
it would be spoiled. I succeeded to dry it in an iron 
machine made for the purpose of " burning coffee," 
till the whole was nearly a cream color, more nearly 
approaching very pale cinnamon, or something between 
both. At 10 to d'Alberg's. He advises that I go 
again to the Duke's this day, being his day of public 
audience. Went on to Madame Robinson's 1 , where 
an hour. Wine and water, bread, butter, and ham. 
Gamp was hungry. She urged me so much to come 
back and dine, that I consented. Thence to Saugnier's, 
secretary of the police. He would not see me, but 
sent me word by the huissier that he had no instruc- 
tions about my passeport. Then to Fonzi's an hour, 



I For Robertson. 

486 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

but did nothing. Home, and dressed for the audience 
of the Minister, and went. Had a few words with him. 
He said that H. M. 1 had not yet given his signature, 
but that he would procure it in the course of the next 
week. Perhaps so. Home ; changed my dress, and 
to Fonzi's another hour and did nothing. Then to 
Madame R.'s, where dined. T: Sidney and Madame 
Menutzi, la mere Evans 2 and James, and Mr. Adam- 
son came in to tea. Off at 8, and directly home with- 
out accident, though I had some narrow escapes. 
While I was in Saugnier's antichambre* there passed a 
marc band de nouveates et varieties^, with whom I had, 
some weeks ago, been bargaining for an old painting 
which I had thought of buying. He saluted me very 
respectfully by the title of baron ; said he had my 
works which he had read with great pleasure, &c. ; to 
all which I bowed. Who the devil can he take me 
for ? Have been taking my caf. blanc\ and reading 
two hours in some books I have been buying for you, 
of which shall say more anon. 

1 6. Rose 7. Very chilly. A fire would be 
comfortable. At 10 to Valkenaer's, where took a 
second breakfast and staid two hours. He is amusing 
and instructive. To Mr. G.'s ; out. To Fonzi's, 
and there till x / 2 p. 3. We finished the work 6 , and I 
believe it is at length perfect. Home. Bro. and cas. 



1 His Majesty. 

2 Mother Evans or Mrs. Evans. 

3 Antechamber. 

4 For marchand de nouveautis et variht'es. Merchant of" novelties and miscellanies. 

5 For cafe blanc. 

6 Set of false-teeth, probably. 



487 



Private "Journal of Aaron Burr . 

for din. 1 A packet from Mrs. Robinson and request 
to dinner on Tuesday ; agreed. Wrote note to Crede, 
and went out to leave it in case he should be out. To 
Crede's ; you know, I don't believe you know, 
though I have told you three times, hussy; why, then, 
again, it is a league. Home at y 2 p. 6. At 7 came 
in Vanderlyn and sat an hour. Have taken caf. blanc 
but san. socer 1 . 

17. Slept sound till 7. What can have produced 
this lethargy ? Not the white coffee, surely. At y 2 
p. 9 to d'Alberg's ; told him of my interview of 
Saturday. Says there must be something more than 
ordinary. Thence to Roux's ; out, as was said. To 
the marchand des varietes to look again at that picture, 
and finally bought it, thinking it would please you ; 
48 francs ! What extravagance ! But that is by no 
means the worst article of this day's work. Thence to 
Michaux's, the botanist, who was many years in the 
United States, and has written a valuable little book of 
his travels. He is now publishing his account of our 
trees, which will be extremely interesting. It demon- 
strates that we (not the whole continent but the United 
States alone) have three times the number of useful 
trees that Europe can boast; but I will bring so much 
of his work as is published. I called on him yester- 
day, but he was out, and out again to-day. Thence to 
Vanderlyn's, which is near (that is, about a mile), and 
at 1 back again to Michaux's, whom I found. My 

1 Bro. for Swedish brad, bread; cas. for German Kdse, cheese, and din. for French diner. 
Including English, four languages are drawn upon to form this little sentence of five words ! 

2 San. is for French sans, without. Soar may be for Swedish socktr or French sucre, sugar. 

488 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

business was to ascertain the identity of a plant and a 
tree, both vaunted here in medicine, and Mr. M. gave 
me the most perfect satisfaction. Thence home, but 
alas ! on my way a p. of dem. x , and so 8 francs. How 
many curses have I heaped on poor Gam., and yet he 
is rather to be pitied ; only see how for the last fifteen 
days he has been so good and considering his habits, 
and considering, &c, &c. And so we will try to for- 
get it till next time. Got home at x / 2 p. 2. Smoked 
my segar. Ate bread and cheese and drank vin and 
water. Then dressed for dinner. At ]/ 2 p. 4 to Dr. 
Swediaur's, calling on the Lyon on the way to see my 
taylor 2 , a great rascal, but if I change I shall get a 
greater. The porter at the Lyon told me that a 
gentleman had called there to see me, and she had 
given him my address. " And, pray, where did you 
direct him ?" " Why, to No. 9 Rue du Croissant 3 ." 
Now, as I am at No. 7, she might as well have sent 
him to the Boulevard Parnasse 4 , and so I have not 
seen the gentleman. It was, as agreed, a tete-a-tete 
with Swediaur. The story of William Vance, charged 
with forgery, to whom Armstrong gave a passport 
under a feigned name to favor his escape. Of Upson, 
whom he wished to charge with despatches for Eng- 
land, but required a receipt for a sum of money not 

paid. Of ; I don't know, but a great many 

others. Home at y 2 p. 7. Drank too much wine. 
Have taken my caf. blanc still stronger. Found, on 

1 This may stand for a pair of demoiselles, girls, or demireps, women of questionable charac- 
ter. 

2 So in the MS. 

} Street of the Crescent. 

4 For Boulevard du Montparnasse. 

489 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

my arrival here, a letter from Scherer and Fringestin, 
enclosing one from Gahn, open. An apology from 
S. and F., which was unnecessary, for it is known that 
all foreign letters go to the police for examination. If 
you should have written me by the same occasion, the 
letter has not been delivered. Perhaps you had a 
few words of cipher ; if so, I shall never see it. But, 
ah, perhaps that gentleman whom I have not seen had 
letters for me ! Curse the porteress. Some weeks 
ago, the 24 sous and 12 sous pieces were, by an im- 
perial decree, put down to 20 and 10 sous. I paid 
my quota of the tax, having just then received about 
twenty of those pieces. There was a publication by 
authority on the occasion. Then, after an interval of 
about fifteen or twenty days, the louis, the old crowns 
and half crowns were reduced. To this, also, I con- 
tributed, having had the same luck as before. On 
Friday or Saturday last, the 6-liard 1 pieces (ij4 sous) 
were put at 1 sou, or reduced to nothing, as they ought 
to have been, I don't know which ; of them I had for 
the first time about forty in my possession ; but as 
this bore hard on the very poor, the 6-liards were, 
by a proclamation in the evening, restored to their 
nominal value, which is a pity. The sooner the old 
money is out of the way the better, for it makes a deal 
of intricacy and confusion in dealings, whereas the new 
is all in decimals like ours ; is also well struck, and 
very handsome, so that I should very cheerfully pay 
my quota. 

1 The Hard was a small coin worth a quarter of a sou. The 6-liard piece was, therefore, 
worth, as stated, \y 2 sous. 

49O 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

1 8. Couche I. Rose 7 something the worse for 
the dinner of yesterday. At 10 came in Mr. G. and 
sat till 12. He has a most profound, analytic head. 
At 1 to Fonzi's. Thence to Bourgoin, the jouallier 1 , 
to order a pair of springs. To the taylor's 2 at the 
Lyon. Home. Dressed for dinner and off to Mad- 
ame Robertson's. Was, by appointment, to be there 
at x /z p. 4 to talk of business. T to dine, M'lle J. 
Evans and Madame Menutzi, and, after dinner, Mr. 
Adamson. Staid till 9. Home just before 10. Not 
permitted to walk through the Thulleries* at that 

hour. 

19. At 10 to Valkenaer's, where took a second 

breakfast. To Roux's, from whom got the usual 
answer. To Saugnier's to inquire for a small parcel 
of books which I supposed I had left there, but found 
it afterward at Paschaud's. Home. Fillibonke, and 
at 4 set out on a very long walk to Howseal's, Rue 
Dore. He had removed to Isle St. Louis 4 , about as 
much farther. Went on, and there found him and his 
eight en/J Home at 7. Tired, and must go to 
sleep, but will have a supper first. Eggs and white 

coffee. 

20. To Mr. G.'s, where an hour. To Fonzi's, 

where met Vanderlyn, who told me that Peale will 
leave town to-morrow for 1' Orient 6 to sail thence for 
Philadelphia. Home to write, but could send you 

1 For joaillier. Jeweler. 

2 So in the MS. 

3 For Tuileries. 

4 This island is one of two islands in the Seine situated in the very heart of Paris ; the 
other, connected with this by a bridge, is l'lsle de la Cite, Isle of the City. It is upon this that 
the celebrated cathedral of Notre Dame is situated. 

5 For infants. Children. 

6 A seaport of France. 

491 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

nothing, not knowing any single person in Philadel- 
phia to whom I could intrust a parcel to you. Yes, J. 
Barclay now occurs to me, but it is too late, for my 
letters are gone. One to you, to Bollman, and to 
Gahn. Vanderlyn called at 8 this evening and we 
went together to hand the letters. Thence home 

safe. 

21. After writing you last evening, I made 

draught of a letter for Mrs. Robertson to her lawyer, 
and did not go to bed till i. Rose 7 and at 9 to 
Fonzi's, where two hours. Thence home. At 1 set 
out to go to St. Pelasgie 1 , but found it too late, and 
so stopped at Vanderlyn's, where, as was agreed last 
evening, we took an early dinner that we might go to 
the opera to see the " Bayarderes" z . It was said that 
the Emperor would be there. On the way from Van- 
derlyn's called on Crede, whom found, and agreed to 
breakfast with him to-morrow. Thence to the opera. 
The decorations and the ballet are magnificent. 
The * * * * ennuyes* everybody, yet in every 
theatre they have a parcel of rascals hired to applaud 
everything, from twenty to fifty of them, who are 
placed in the middle of the paterre 4 , and are a great 
nuisance. Home at j4 P- 10, and found a note from 
Madame Robertson, and another from Swan. Just 
12. Must couche ; have answered both notes. Have 
not taken my caf. b 'lane this evening, having no coal; 



1 Burr has mentioned the Sainte-Pelagie prison several times, but never before with the word 
St. prefixed. 

2 For Bayaderes, A name for dancing girls in the East Indies. 

} The * * * * annoys everybody. Burr's verb is a hybrid from the French verb ennuyer, 
to annoy, bore. The undecipherable word probably means claque, meaning paid clappers at the 
theatres. 

4 For parterre. 



492 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

so consoled myself with milk punch. My uncle 
Stephen lived on milk punch, and at the age of 86 
mounted by the stirrup a very gay young horse, and 
galloped off with me twelve miles without stopping, 
and was, I thought, less fatigued than I. On my way 
from Vanderlyn's called on Crede and agreed to break- 
fast with him to-morrow morning. 

22. Rose 6. The caf. blanc maintains its repu- 
tation. Was at Crede's just before 9, and there took 
breakfast. We went together to St. Pelagie 1 , where 
he left me, and I passed an hour with Swan, talking 
principally of sheep. On coming home, found the 
card of Captain Skiddy, with message that he would 
call again between 3 and 4. Doubtless some Ameri- 
can captain with a letter from you. Intended to have 
gone to the Due de Rovigo's, but was tired, and it is 
a most unpleasant ceremony, and I shall get only the 
usual answer. At 4 comes in Captain Skiddy. He 
is from New York ; in the employ of Jamel, and his 
business is to present for payment an order which I 
drew on Mr. Alston 2 about fourteen months ago, in 
Sweden, in favor of Captain Barry, for 80 pounds 
sterling. Captain Barry sends me word that he had 
written frequently to Mr. Alston, who has never 
answered him ! Very pleasant ! To Madame Rob- 
ertson's to dine at y 2 p. 5. T: Jane E. and Madame 
Men. 5 After dinner Madame reproached me in terms 
which did not please me with machinations against her 



1 Burr has finally almost attained to the correct spelling of this name. It should be Sainte- 
Pelagie, or Ste-Pelagie. 

2 Burr's son-in-law. 

J For Madame Menutzi. 



493 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

intended match, which is not true. Her expressions 
were so unkind that I left the room without replying 
and came off and think I shall not go there again. 
Home at 8 and did not go out again. 

23. Rose 6. At y 2 p. 8, as was agreed, Crede 
came in to take me to breakfast with his friend Man- 
cel. A very pleasant young man, who has a very 
handsome establishment for a gar^on 1 of 25. He 
meditates to remove to United States, and his younger 
brother is now there exploring. We had tea, cutlets, 
and dessert of fruit. Staid till 1. A very important 
discovery has been made here, viz., to make vinegar, 
of excellent quality, from the sap of any trees. The 
process gives you all the moisture in vinegar, and all 
the wood in carbon. I shall get the details if I can 
find money to pay for it, that is to say, about 100 dol- 
lars. Walked with Crede to buy a sample of this 
vinegar; but the store was shut, being Sunday. We 
went then to see Mons. Cagniard 2 , and his new inven- 
tion of raising water and performing any mechanical 
operation. His apparatus is a screw of Archimedes 
turned the reverse, air, water, and quicksilver. Cag- 
niard was abroad ; but we saw a model, and worked it, 
and got the report of a committee of the Institute 5 on 
the subject. If the thing performs what is said, I will 
apply it to give water to Charleston. Walked with 
Crede about half way down St. Denis and then came 



1 Bachelor. 

2 Cagniard de La Tour (1777-1859) was a celebrated French physicist and engineer who 
performed many notable experiments in physics and became an inventor of considerable repute. 

I Meaning the Institute of France. This great institution is divided into five academies, 
one of which, the Academy of Sciences, interests itself in all things relating to the mathematical 
and physical sciences. 

494 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr. 

home. Bro. and mjlk. At 4 to Fonzi's ; he was out, 
but met Vanderlyn to whom gave a commission. 
Home at x / 2 p. 6. Caf. blanc bien fort. 1 Vanderlyn 
came in at 8 and sat an hour. A note from Madame 
R. Very amiable ; must make up. So wrote a very 
amiable answer, q. v. Poor good soul, she is griev- 
ously tormented by her lovers and will probably finish 
by marrying one of them. A note also from Swan. 
Still sheep! 

24. Very early sent off my note to Madame 
Robertson by the commissionaire' 1 , which costs 1 5 sous. 
At 10 went out to call on Skiddy; met him in the 
street with Howseal. To Due d'Alberg's ; y an hour; 
took breakfast a lafourchette 1 ^ &c. Madame is hand- 
some and lovely. They go to Rovigo's to-night, and 
will ask about my passport. I declined going. On 
to Madame R.'s. She always keeps me about x / 2 
hour while she makes her toilette. She appeared 
abbattu A . We did not talk of our quarrel. Coming 
from Madame's called on Baron Claybrooke, who has 
returned to town after three months' absence. Home 
leisurely. Found that Crede had just called. We had 
agreed that he should call between 2 and 3, and I was 
home five minutes before 3. He left word he would 
call again ; and, as I wished much to see him, I staid 
at home till }4 P- S '•> but ne came not « So wrote him 
a note, and went and left it at his lodgings, about one 
league. Home at Y / 2 p. 7. At 4 bro. and cas. and 



1 Caf. for cafe. Very strong white coffee. 

2 For commissionnaire. Porter. 
} A meat breakfast. 

4 For abattue. Depressed. 



495 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

this evening white coffee. Answered Swan's note this 
P. M. Rumors of changes intended by the Emperor 
in Spain, in Poland, and in Naples. They are but 
rumors. Read a memoire 1 on the state of Europe be- 
fore the discovery of America. 

22. To Due d'Alberg's at 10. T breakfast and 
prateings 2 with la Due se? He promises to talk with 
Rovigo of my affairs on Monday evening. To 
Madame Robertson's ; still dismal. She will finish by 
marrying Adamson against her own will and judgment. 
No, all this was on Monday the 24th. I have already 
written you Saturday but can't find it. But in writing 
Saturday I forgot to mention (being engaged by the 
brouille* with Madame R.) the incident of la boit'se*. 

1 do not find that Montaigne a raison 6 on that subject. 

23. Went with Crede to breakfast with his friend 
Mancel. This I have also written you. 

24. See above. We may as well do the thing 
in gross for I am now writing Thursday evening, 27th 
September, 18 10. This morning on my return from 
Madame R.'s called on the Baron de Claybrooke. 
(This I have also written, but can't find.) Home at 

2 to wait for Crede, who had promised to call between 
2 and 3. He had called just before 2 and gone. He 
will as well have called 7 at 8 as at any other hour. He 
left word he would call again. Waited till 5. He 



1 For memoire. Memorial. 

2 So in the MS. 

3 For la Duchesse. 

4 Quarrel, disagreement. 

5 For la boiteuse. The lame girl. 

6 Is right. Does he refer to the great French essayist Montaigne (1552-1592)? 

7 So in the MS. 



496 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

came not and to his lodgings, which you know, is a 
league ; nobody at home. Left under the door a note 
which I had written. 

25. At 10 called on Mr. G., where a few min- 
utes. We searched the code and talked of Bentham, 
and of vinegar, &c. Thence to d'Alberg's to hear his 
report. The Minister of Police said that he had made 
a report to the Emperor of my demand of passport, 
and had received no answer. Did not know when one 
might be given ; so that I am just where I was four 
months ago, only with less money, and the fine season 
gone. Home. At 1 sor. and met young Crede. His 
father left town yesterday, and uncertain when he will 
be back. Dined at home with the family. To-day a 
mauv. recont. 1 ; not good ; 6 francs ; bah I 

26. To Valkenaer's, where breakfast a second 
time, for my first breakfast is generally made at 7. 
Valkenaer always amuses me. To Mancel's, where 
*4 hour. He engages me to dine on Friday. The 
first invitation of any sort from a Frenchman since 
being in France, now near eight months. On my 
return home last evening found a note from Vander- 
lyn, saying that Mr. Warden, by whom I proposed to 
write to America, would leave town to-morrow morn- 
ing. Wrote to you, to Gahn, and to Bollman, and to 
Greenwood the dentiste and at 7 this morning sent a 
special messenger with the letters to Vanderlyn. At 5 
to Vanderlyn's to dine. After dinner we walked by 
the way of the Thuilleries 2 to Fonzi's, where an hour 

1 For une mauvaise rencontre. A bad rencounter. 

2 So in the MS. Burr has great difficulty with this word. 

497 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

and thence home, where we took caf. blanc. Took 
bath before dinner ; 40 sous. 

27. Now I have got up with you and will try 
to keep even 1 . Yesterday called on Sisto, the Spanish 
mait de languas z y to engage him to give me a few les- 
sons in his language. This morning at 9 he came and 
staid an hour. I would do nothing but read aloud 
after him, to catch the pronunciation, and translate. 
Have laid out a louis in grammars, dictionaries, and 
some other books, for which expense I console myself 
that they will be useful to you and Gampillo. Wrote 
you another letter, and one to Hosack, with a parcel 
for each of you, and went to Vanderlyn's with them. 
He went to Warden's, who, learning that the letters 
and parcels were from me, would not take them. 
Home and dined on fillebonka. After dinner to hunt 
two or three pamphlets. Home at 6. Caf. blanc. A 
long visit from Jul. 3 to talk about her business, and to 
get me to write some more letters. Poor soul, she 
repeats over her instructions 200 times, for fear I 
should forget them. Have read this evening Molle- 
ral's pamphlet on the wood vinegar ; a very important 
discovery; and Parmentier's on the management of 
wine ; very stupid and unsatisfactory. To-day bought 
y 2 pound of sirop de raisins 4 '^ for experiment. It is 
something like very dirty molasses diluted exceedingly 
with dirty water. The taste corresponds to the 
appearance. I can make no sort of use of it. Cost 



1 Referring to his Journal, which he had neglected. 

2 For French maitre des Ungues, or Spanish maestro des lenguas. Language master. 
J For Julie, a woman previously mentioned. 

4 Grape sugar. 



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Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

12 sous, and 5 sous for the bottle. Grapes are now 
from 3 to 8 sous a pound, and I eat about two pounds 
a day. 

28. At 10 to Mr. G.Y, where y 2 hour talking 
of vinegar and other projects. Thence to Valkenaer's 
to get a pamphlet which I had borrowed from d'Alberg, 
and lent him. He had lent it to a friend, so I think 
it is in a fair way to be lost. Thence home to get 
another pamphlet about vinegar, which I had prom- 
ised to G. Called again at G.'s, and thence to 
d'Alberg's, where y 2 hour. Thence to Sisto's to say 
that I could not take a lesson till Monday. Home 
and at 3 to Rue St. Denis to buy a toy for Annabella. 
Got in trouble by the way and spent 6 francs. Home 
to dress for dinner. Vanderlyn came in and we walked 
together to Fonzi's and to Marcel's where met Crede 
and a young Frenchman, Bourdelet, a handsome, 
intelligent man of about 36. We were five at table. 
A plain, good dinner, intended to suit my taste. A 
pleasant, chearful 2 party. Off at }4 p. 8. Mancel 
and Bourdelet walked with us, and we took ice creams 
on the Boulevard. Then parted. Crede and I walked 
together y % hour, and agreed to meet at 10 to-morrow 
morning. On my arrival home, found a note from 
Swan, containing at last some news from V., but not 
perfectly satisfactory; also a verbal message from Mrs. 
Robertson, left by her coachman, begging me to call 
on her to-morrow morning, and by no means to fail. 
What the devil can be now in the wind ? It is quite 



1 Griswold's. 

2 So in the MS. 



499 



Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr . 

malapropos 1 ', for I am engaged to go with G. to-morrow 
morning in the country. 

29. At 10 to G.'s, where met Crede. Found 
G. ready for the country jaunt, but asked an hour's 
delay, that I might go and see what was Madame R.'s 
distress. Took cabriole 7 ' (the first time in a month) 
and drove to Madame R.'s. Found her unusually 
well, and expecting that I would dine with her, which 
was the only message by her servant. The rest was 
the invention of our deaf Jeanette ; so drove back 
again to G.'s. Having last evening written to Swan 
that I would call upon him this evening, wrote from 
G.'s that I must postpone my visit to him till to-mor- 
row morning. Went with G. in cabriole to see a place 
he had thought of buying. Passed two or three hours 
there, and got in town at y 2 5. Took dinner with 

him at the , a famous restaurateur s on the 

Boulevard. At 7 we parted. I to F. where met the 
beautiful Madame C. and her beautiful daughter about 
4 years old. " Ma petite^ montrez ta piece de mar- 
riage" 1 ; and she showed it. There were three ladies 
and four gent. Engaged to pass some hours with F. 
to-morrow to finish our business. Just as 1 got home 
came in young Crede, to say that his father had 
engaged Mancel to take me out to pass the day at his 
house at St. Germain's 4 , and to set off" at 8. I had 

1 For mal a propos. Ill-timed. 

a A one-horse vehicle. Cabriolet was a lighter vehicle of the same kind. From this word 
comes our word cab. Cabs, or cabriolets, as they were first called, were not known to the 
English till 1820. 

J For " montre ta piece de mortage." A piece de mariage, literally marriage-piece, was ordi- 
narily a medal of gold or silver given by the husband to the wife during the marriage ceremony. 
Here it may be called the engagement present. In spite of her slight age the child may have 
been already affianced. 

4 Burr uses these names of places as if they were the names of persons. He should say, of 
course, at St. Germain. 

500 



Private Journal of Aaron Burr . 

much desired this party, and Crede had made it to 
gratify me ; but how unfortunate ! What is to be 
done with my engagements with F. and S ? 

30. In my great embarras 1 I resolved to disap- 
point Crede, though sorely against my will. At 9 
called on Mancel to tell him so. He had already 
gone. Hence to Fonzi's, on whose account I gave up 
the other engagement. Found him engaged, and the 
bijoutier z not come. Home to get my permission for 
the Pelasgie 3 . Thence to the bijoutier s to engage 
him to go to F.'s ; then to St. Pelasgie, where passed 
a few minutes with Swan ; thence to Vanderlyn's to 
meet me at dinner at F.'s; then to F.'s. For these 
courses took cabriole^ which cost me 3 francs. Note, 
Madame, it is the first time in a month that I have paid 
carriage-hire. F. and I did very little ; but we dined 
and smoked segars. Hernandez and Vanderlyn, and 
the bijoutier were our party. Vanderlyn came home 
with me at 8 and we took caf. blanc together. Found 
on my return home another letter from Gahn, dated 
30th July, referring me to former letters which have 
not been received, but saying that he has forwarded 
me many letters, of which, however, I have not seen 
one. 



1 Perplexity. 

2 Jeweler. 

3 Permission or permit to visit the Sainte-Pelagie prison. 



50I 



MA;, 21 1966